Handloom Construction33 778

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llJMXOF5CHEREFERENCELIBRARYA project of Volunteers in Asia

.Bandloom Con trucrtlon.

. .A Practxcal Gsa1t-I~uthe Non-w

by: Joan KosterPublished by:Voluntqers in Technical Assistance1815 North Lynn St. Suite 200P.0. Box !2438Arlington, VA 22209 USAPaper copies are S 6.95.Available from:Volunteers in Technical Assistance1815 North Lynn St. Suite 200P.0. Box 12438

Arlington, VA 22209 USAReproduced by- permission of Volunteers inTechnical Assistance.


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Hand IoomLonsTructior-7:A Practical Guide

I=or the Non-Exper

39E$6 95


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HANDLOOMONSTRUCTIONA Pwmxcaa GUIDE FORTHE NON-EXPERT

WRITTENArm ILLUSTRATEDBY

JOAN KOSTER


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ACKNOWLEDGENENTSVXTA acknowledges, with deep thanks and apprec:aticn tothe author, this very special contribution to its developmentwork.Kcmdaoom COKB~&UC~~OR was writteri and illustrated by JoanKostcr--educator, anthropologist, artist and weaver. Koster, a

long-time VITA Volunteer, has provided assistance through VITAto loom builders and weavers around the world. VITA is verypleased to b P able to offer a portion of Koster's work collect-ed in one manuscript.Special thanks go also to UITA Volunteer Virginia Palmerfor her review and comments, to Margaret Crouch and LaurelDruberr of the VITA staff for editorial work, to VITA stafferCarolyn Marcus , whose skill at layout and page design so well

highlfghted the author's excellent work,and to VITA VolunteerKit Cone, for typesetting services.

l&Rainier, Maryland USA


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TABLEOF @ONTENTSINTRODUCTION 11 Which Loom to Build?

Fibers: Choice and PreparationWhat Products to Weave?The LoomsTable ITable IITable III

2 A Weaver's Dictionary3 The Simple Frame Loom

Materials NeededConstructfanHow to Weave on a Frame LoomVariations of the Simple Frame LooaHoer to Ueave on a Pegged Loom

4 The Inkle LoomMaterials NeededConstructionSet Up the Loom for WeavingHow to Weave on an Inkle LoomSteps in Weaving

56

;::;212333

346454953


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The Beater 113The Raddl rt 115The Shuttles 116The 3kei ncr 119The Skein Winder 120The Strekher 122The Warp$ng Board for a Foot-Powered Loom 724

7 Weaves, Patterns and Finishing TouchesPlanning the FabricKeeping RecordsFacingswarp-faced weaveweft-faced weavebalanced weaveColor Pattorn WeavesTapestry WeaveKnotted WeavesFinishfng Touches

8 Where to Find More Information

127127129136

137140143145157


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---

Ir-----d


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IIntroductionWllth fnexpensfve machine-made cloth increasingly available almosteverywhere, it seems likely that fewer and fewer peo?'e will be in-terested in producing their own cloth. As a result, .iandweaving maybe in danger of becoming a neglected craft. Yet there are many ad-vantages to handweavIng--particularly in the home and on a cottageindustry basis.Weaving can be done in one's spare time using free or inexpensivefibers available locally, and simple, efficient looms can be built

B - from local materials atlittle cost. Therefore,as long as the loom afibers cost little, tfinished cloth requiran investment in timerather than money.There are other advan

ndhe'es

tsge S


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Loomed products can provide extra cash income, especially for agri-cultural or herding families. Such products can be sold locally topeople unable to weave their own cloth, to the tourist trade, orfor export. Cloth and cloth products are relative ly easy to storeand ship, and they suffer little spoilage if cared for properly.Because people all over the world have been weaving since the veryearliest ttmes, there are many styles and varieties of looms. Thisis b book about building and using some of these. Three types oflooms, including two variations of a foot-powered loom, are presentedhere. The book gives 1) detailed directions for building each kindof loom, 2) the advantages and disadvantages of each, and 3) instruc-tions for weaving.The most basic design for a loom is the simple frame loom. Thisloom has been used throughout the world by people as widelyseparated as Amertcan Xndians and the villagers of Unper Volta.Foot-powerea looms --sometimes called multiple harness looms--arethose on which the weaver operates foot pedals to shift moveablrzparts of the loom, making it possible to weave more quickly andeasily. Host foot-powered looms operate the same way but differin the design of the frame that holds the loom. One version ofthis loom, called a pit loom, sits in a pit dug for the weaver'sfeet and the foot pedals. The pit loom described here, which issimilar to looms used in Greece, Turkey, the Balkans, and northernIndia, can be supported by being attached to a wall or suspendedfrom the ceiling. The free-standing loom, on the other hand, hasIts own supporting frame and a raised bench for the weaver. Thefree-standing loom depicted in this manual is like those used inGreece, the Balkans, Turkey,America. Iran, northern Europe and colonialRead this manual carefully before deciding which loom to build. Themanual has been written to assist with thinking about the questionswhich must be answered before a loom is built. For example:


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chapter provides a very good framework for making decisions concern-lag which loom is best for a given purpose. Chapter 2 is an illus-trated dictionary of basic terms used by a weaver and throughoutthis manuscript.Directions for construction and use of each type of loom are coveredin Chapters 3, 4 and 5. Chapter 1 includes information on choosing,treating and spinnfng fibers. Other sections cover types of weavesand finishings, and weaver's tools. An annotated list of referencesis also included.


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1 Which Loom to Build?The decision to butld one loom rather than another should be made afterconsidering a number of questions.1. What kind of cloth or article is to be made?

If there is only one kind of fiber available, theA this fact-can dfctate the choice of product and the loom. If there isa variety of fibers, choose a loom that can handle those fibersused most often in the type of products or art9cles being pro-duced.2. What size cloth is needed?

Will all the cloth you make be the same width, or do you wantto make articles of varying widths? Some looms can weavecloth of varying dimensions, but most weave only within cer-tain limits for width and length. I


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This chapter will help the user make the decision by providing infor-mation on each of these points, beginning with the discussion offfbers. This seems a good place tr: begin because it appears to be thecase that few people realize the range and variety of materials whichcan be woven. Gutdelines are provided for preparing fibers and forjudging whether there is sufficient quantity to complete a product.

Fibers: Choice and PreparationIn order to corllpete with manufactured cloth,handwoven cloth must be made from free orinexpensive materjals available locally. Ifweaving is done now, or was done in the Dast,learn which materials are used and how theyare prepared. Fibers from domestic plantsand animals will usually be available ingreater quanttties than those from wildsources. However, sometimes grain strawor sugarcane residues can be used in weav-ing.goats,

BGmesttCated animals such as sheep,rabbits, camels and many others canalso provide quanttties of useful f-fbers.

Experiment with new materials as well.Perhaps a nearby factory discards packingmaterials of natural fibers, synthetics orplastics.bags can Sheets of plastic or old plasticbe cut into strips and woven tomake waterproof mats and raingear. Oldclothing and cloth can be cut into stripsand woven into the rag rugs which aretradftional in many parts of the korld,


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range of materials that can be used is almost endless. The followinglist is just a sample of the variety of fibers and materials used indifferent parts o f the world for weaving.

Sources of Materials for VVeavingANIMAL/INSECTBuffaloCamelCattlecatChinchillaDo9FoxGoatGuinea PigHGrSeLlamaMusk Ox

VEGETABLE MAN-MADEAmaryllidaceae-Agave, Sisal, Mauritius HempApocynaceae and Asclepiadociae-MilkweedBombacaceae-KapokBromeliaceae-KapokBromeliaceae-Caroa, Pineapple, Spanish MossGratineae-BroomcornLeguminosae-Sunn HempLilfaceae-Formio Flax, African BowstringLinaceae-FlaxMalvaceae-Bimili, Cotton, Henaf, Hibiscus, Mesta,Okra, UrenaMoraceae-Hemp, Paper MulberryMusaceae-Abaca, BananaPalmae-Coir (Coconut), Crfn vegetal, PalmettoRacoonSheepSilkwormVi tunaYak

Piassava, ToquillaTilfaceae-Jute BasswoodThymeliaceae-Lace BarkUrticaceae-Ramie (Chdna Grass)Also various grasses, reeds and bamboos,as crop residues-grain straw, bagasse as well(sugarcane)

AcrylicsCardboardOld ClothPaperPlasticPolyesterRayon

Preparing Fibers for Weaving .. .


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Fiber Preparation1. Cleaning - Host fibers must have dirt, seeds, sticky sap,husks or oils removed.

washing or soaking. For some this involves

Cleaning 6ibeu by hand.

Some bibe/rb tttubt be wabhed------I. be6oke they can be. p&epahed 6oh weaving.

-x.


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3. Combing - Fibers are drawn throughtoothed tool in a mannersimilar to combing one'shair. This straightenssmooths the fibers to prthem for spinning.


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Twisting: strips of plant material - leaves,grasses, stalks, etc. - and of oldcloth or plastic can be made thickerand stronger by placing a heavyweight on one end and turning thestrip in one direction until itIs round in circumference.

5. Plying - Fibers can be madestronger by twisting to-gether two or morestrands. Spun ortwisted fibers shouldbe twisted in thedirection oppositefrom which theywere spun ortwisted before.The same techniquedescribed for spin-ning or twistingcan be used. Two-ply means the yarnts made of twostrands, four-ply


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ntial builder now has some idea of the range of materialsn be used for weaving and of the steps involved in preparfngt is also important that the builder or user at this pointidea of what needs to be woven and of how fast the articlescompleted.his knowledge is understanding of the kinds of products whichoven out of which fibers and of how much material is neces-a given product.

Products to Weavems can be woven. Some woven products are not finishedthe materialmust be sewn or fastened together after on aIS


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that the weft (fibers) can be pulled across over one strand, underthe next, over and under as shown in the illustration on the pre-vious page.When considering the product to be made it is useful to know thatwarp and weft fibers do not have to be the same.If you find you do not have enough of one fiber, it is possible tocombine two or more in the same cloth. Always use the stronger forthe warp. The following chart shows how fibers may be combined incertain articles.A selected warp from the chart may be used in combination with oneor more of the wefts listed for the same article. For example, anattractive and sturdy bag for carrying water bottles could be madeusing a two-ply wool warp and a weft of alternating bands of one-plywool, coarse goathair and jute. A similar bag might have a warp ofheavy cotton and alternating wefts of linen, cotton and jute. Com-binations of different fibers will produce cloth of varying textures.In choosing fibers for a specific article consider the textural ef-fect of the finished cloth: clothing and linens should use fibersthat are soft to the touch: rugs, sacks, and mats can USC thecoarser fibers.Suggested Warps and WeftsARTICLEBags

WARPHeavy cotton2-4 ply woolLinenJute

WEFTHeavy cotton1-2 ply woolLinenCoarse goathairJute


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ARTICLEHats

Rafngear

Rugs

Sacks

sheets

Mall Hangfngs

Heavy ottonHeavy If nenJuteHempHeavy cottonHeavy linen2 ply coarse goathairHeavy cotton2-4 ply woolHeavy linenJute

Heavy cotton2-4 ply woolHeavy linenJuteNedturn, heavy cottonFine 2 ply woolMedium, heavy linen

Cotton2-4 ply woolLinen

WEfTJuteHempStrawCardboard and many othervegetable fibersLoosely spun goathairPlastic strips

Heavy cotton1-4 ply woolOld cloth cut in stripsJuteHempAnimal HairHeavy cotton2-4 ply woolHeavy linenJuteHempMedfum, fine cottonFine 1 and 2 ply woolMedium, fine linenSilkAny


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I I I I C. Determine the width of the finishedpiece of cloth. (in cm.)D. Determine the length of the finishedpiece of cloth. (in cm.)(AxC) x D = the length of warp needed(BxD) x C = the length of weft needed(AxCXD) + (BxDxC) = total thread neededfor cloth.Remember that this is just an estimate.It Is always a good Idea to have extrawarp and weft. (See pages 127 & 128for a further discussion of determiningamounts of warp and weft needed.)

The LoomsThe Simple Frame Loom Is the mostbasic design for a loom. Theframe, a structure of four piecesof wood, serves to keep the warp(vertical) threads taut andstraight so that the weft (horf-


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coarse fibers and is useful for weaheavy mats of straw, grasses or simlar fibers. The frame loom is alsovery suitable for weaving pile orshag rugs, and tapestries. Theknotted and tapestry weaves usedfor such rugs require slow pain-staking fingerweavjng by the weaverno matter which style loom is used,and so the foot-powered loom losesits advantage of greater speedwhen this kind of work is beingdone.The Inkle Loom is designed toproduce very strong continuousbands or strips of fabric rangingfrom about 2 to 28 centimeters.This loom is popular for weavingbelts and decorative trims. Al-though the inkle loom producesa lfmited site and ty e of materM90 to 180 centfmeters ! , it has adva

vins

(the strips range in length fromntages for some situations and uses.The Inkte Loom is fairly small; some versions are small enough tohold in one's lap or work on a table. This can be an advantage ifworkjng space is limited. An ingenious system of changing the warpmakes setting up the loam and weaving on it a very rapid process.Many beautifu l and intricate patterns can be developed and carriedout on the loom. The fabric produced is warp-faced which means thatthe weft does not show at all in the fdnished cloth. This means thatif ftbers for weaving are limited, excellent cloth can be produced byusing good fibers for the warp and poorer ones in the weft. Even if


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:t;mother version presented is a Free-standing or Self-supportingThe moveable parts of this version are supported by a large,sturdy wood frame which can be disassembled for storage. Thisloom requires more wood and carpentry skill than all the others pre-sented in this manual. However, it does not have to be made ofcommercially milled lumber, but can be constructed from unmilledtree limbs. Looms of this design are also used in Greece, and theBalkans, Turkey, Iran, and were once common in northern Europe andColonial America.Both versions, the Pit Loom and the Free-Standing Loom, use the samemoveable parts. The advantage to this is shown particularly incases where it is not possible to construct enough frames for everyfamily that wishes to weave. When this is the case, a village maychoose to build a few of either or both types. Each family thenhas a set of moveable parts and the families share use of the several1 oom frames. This allows more people to weave than might otherwisebe possible.Some other important features of these last two loom desi ns arethe use of multiple harnesses and footpedals (or treadles . Mul-tiple harnesses refer to the combination of pulleys and heddleswhich raise and lower the warp.harnesses. These looms can use up to eightThis means the loom is smooth and fast operating, andalso that there is a great variety of weaves and patterns possible.(See Chapter 7.) The use of footpedals frees both hands to dealwith the weft and shuttles.The warp used on these looms must be very strong and even. Cotton,wool, linen, jute and silk have all been used on this type of loom.(See chart on page 20.) The weft,from yarn to rags, however, can be quite variable--raw wool and plant fibers. And although thewarping process is complex and time consuming, the foot-poweredloom can hold a great quantity of warp* enough for several large


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ITable I-A Comparison of these Looms

I FRAME LOOM INKLE OOM FOOT-POWEREDOOMII Size Range of h.30 cm and up 30 to 90 cm 120 to 150 cmLoom Frame w.30 cm and up 6 to 30 cm 90 to 120 cmII Width ofFinished Cloth 4 cm and up 2 to 28 cm 2 to 100 cmII Length of WarpHeld on Loom 2 X Loom hgt. 90 cm 200 cm to 3600 cmIEase ofConstruction Easy, little Easy, somecarpentry skill Complex, some car-carpentryneeded skill helpful pentry skill needed

;se;ffrterfals w00dNailsConstruction Sticks(see specific CordHammer, Drillsections on Knifeconstructionfor more detail) Rocks

WoodDowelsScrewsSaw, ChiselScrewdriverDrill

WoodReed or BambooCement, ShovelSaw, Chisel, DrillRope, Cord, StringKnife..--A.--

Best Fibers Fine to Coarseof all klnds Good qualitywarps - thin to Good quality warps -thin to medium thick-


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Table I I-Sample Fibers and their Suitability foruse on these LoomsFIBER FRAME LOOM INKLE LOOM

Cotton - fineCotton - he*vyFlax (Linen)

- long fibers- tow

b&o1 - 1 ptjWool - 2-4 plyJute - loose spunJute - 2-4 plyAngora rabbitGoathair (coarse)

- loose spun

Uarpnoyes

yesnonoyesnoyesIJO

no

kleftyesyes

yesyesYesyesyesyesyes

yes

WarpnoYes

yesnonoyesnoyesyes

no

Weftyesyes

yes

FOOT-POWEREDOOMWarpyesyes

yesnonoyesnoyesyes

no

WeftyesYes

yes


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Table I I I-What to Weave on Which LoomsARTICLE

msBeltsBlanketsFabric (heavy)Fabric (light)MatsRugsSacksSheetsStrapsTowels

FRAME LOOM

yesYesyesyesnoyesyesyesnonoyes

INKLE LOOM

noyesnonono!I0nononoyesno

FOOT-POWEREDOOM

yes?lOyesYesyesnoyesYesyesnoyes


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2 A Weavers, ictionaryBefore continuing with the text familiarize yourself with these words. Listedhere are some of the words used in this manual which refer to specific tools orprocesses used in loom construction or in weaving. Words referring to parts o flooms have been defined in terms of their function rather than their construction,since actual constructton may vary with the loom type.

Balanced Weave (n) The warp and weft show equallyin the finished cloth.


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Breast beam(n) Another name for the cloth beam, orthe crosspiece of the loom which isclosest to the weaver during weaving.It is usually applied to looms having acontinuous warp.Clothbeam (n) The crosspiece of a loom frame, or onsome looms a separate bar which holdsthe rolled up finished cloth. See alsoBreast Beam.Comb (n) 1. A part of more complex looms which separatesindividual warp threads to keep them straight and evenlyspaced and which also serves as a Beater, pushingthe newly put in weft against the finished edge ofthe weaving. It is sometimes called the Reed,because it may be constructed of thin slivers ofreed. 2. A toothed tool used to straighten anduntangle fibers before spinning.for a further description.) (See page 114Comb(v) The process by which fibers are straightened andsmoothed to prepare them for spinning into yarn.(See page 9 for a more detailed description.)

Dents (n) The spaces between the teeth of the Comb.


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Handloom (n) Any frame which holds the threads taut forhuman-powered weaving.

H8i-ness (n) A combfnat ion of pulleys and heddles which raiseand lower selected warp threads,

Meddles (n) A special device, of varying design, whichholds selected warp threads in the proper positionfor weavfng.Heddiestick (fl) A rod or stick which supports the heddles

Sticks

le Stick

-.-. ---.-- A


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hllultiple Harness LOOm (n) Any loom having more than one set of harnesses,

Overhandknot (n) A simple knot used to join twothreads together, and also used to tietogether the warp left at each end of awoven pl'ece.

Pile (n) A soft, upstanding weft, similar to fur orvelvet, produced by knotted weaves that havebeen cut short. (See page 143)

Plainweave (n) The simpltest of all the weaves. The weft iswoven over and under altarnating warps. Alsoknown as Tabby Weave. (See page 131)


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/ -Noi Is (

Raddle (n) A special tool used to guide k-~Illlllllllllllllllll~~,~~~ 1

the warp on to the warp beamduring the warping process. /--ZOO".c----- --I-- ----z1

Sehted5;eS (n) The edges of the woven cloth that areparallel to the warp.

Shag (n) A soft, upstanding weft, similar to pile,except that the weft is left uncut and so has anuneven, fluffy appearance. It is produced by theknotted weaves. (See page 144)

Shed (n) The space created when selected warp threadsare ratsed and lowered through which the weft

edge


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Skein (n) A measured length of continuous yarn wound in a loosecircle and tied at opposite ends.

Skeiner (n) A tool used to wind yarn into a skein. (See page 119 formore detail.)

Skeinwinder (n) A tool used to hold a skein of yarn as it Isunwound on to a shuttle or bobbin. Sometimes calleda Reeler. (See page 120 for more detail.)


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Spinning-wheel in) A huziin-powered mchanicaf &vice which servesto rotate the spindle for spinning fibers into yarn.

Squareknot (n) A strong knot used to join two threadstogether; also used in Macrame.

Stretcher (n) A metal or wooden bar that holds theedges or selvedges of the woven cloth

]parallel. (See page 122 for a more de-tafled description.) /I f

Tapestry weave (n) A variety of plain weave in whichseveral colors are woven into a design orpicture. (See page 140)


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4 &sgssi4 I I ma I : .qw , , R. 1; sissTwill Weave (n) A weave produced hen a 3 L .m I I w 1 1 - 1 I -3 I I : 1warp or weft thread, or both, go f C 1 ! m i I M ; I M I i m , , ,

over and under more than one 1 t I I I kss I 1 &s3 : , &V 1 1 \,y\ I tthread at a time in a regularpattern. [See page 133 for a more complete description.)

Twist (n) The direction in which yarn is turned in spinning orplying. A Z twist turns clockwise. An S twist turnscounterclockwise.Twisting (v) The process of placing a weight on one end of apliable strip of fiber and turning the strip to producea rounded circumference. (See page 10 for more detail.) c

2 stwill twist

cvlm0-r?

Warp(n) The group of threads or yarns stretched across the loomframe, and extending perpendicularly from the weaver's body.Also, called Warp Threads.


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Warp-faced (a&j) A cloth in which only the warp threads show.

Warping (v) The process of winding the warp on to the loom frame or warp beamand threading it through the heddles and comb.

Warping board(n) A special tool used to measureout ?ong length of warp In a confinedarea. (See page124 for a completedescr+ption.)

l-l mC &A P

I-- l /


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Weft (n) The threads woven in and out of the stretched warpto produce a piece of continuous cloth. Also referredto as weft threads.

Weft-faced (adj) A cloth in which only the weft threads show.

Yarn (n) A continuous strand of fiber, in this manualsynonymous with thread.


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3 I ne simpleFrame LoomThe following directions explainhow to build a very basic loom I190 dimensions are given since ihereis no real limit on the size of the \loom. The smzllest practical size, \ \however, is probably about 30cm in .-- -either direction. kthile it is possibleto build looms smaller than 30cm, it is not practical because weavfngnarrower than 30~x1 can be done on the 30cm framework. Therefore, loomsize can vargc from one made small enough to hold in the lap (30 by6Dcm s a good site) or large enough to weave a room size rug. Suchlarge-size looms must be worked by several weavers at one time.


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Materials NeededFOR THE FRAMETwo (2) sturdy pieces of wood* slightlylarger than the desired width of thefinished cloth. These will be horiton-tal pieces of the frame (AD and CD).Two (2) sturdy pieces of wood* slightlylonger than two thirds the desiredlength of the finished cloth. These~$11 be the vertical pieces (EF and GH).wm : This wood and any other wood usedfor this loom need not be commerciallumber. Tree limbs with the barkremoved may be used instead.Lashing or Nails to join the frame.

FOR THE HEDDLEOne (1) strong stick, the width ofthe loom frame.A length of cotton or synthetic cord(such as is used in fishnets) aboutfour (4) times the width ai the loom.


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TOOLSND UPPLIESHammer Or-ill Sharp KnifeSandpaper Oil for Wood

Before beginning to build, please note the following:The wood used must be as straight as possible and well-seasonedso it will not warp daring use.Smooth and sand the wood so there are no rough spots that willcatch the thread or yarn.011 the wood rather than use paint or varnish. Oil keeps thewood from drying and cracking, and provides a smooth renewablefinish for the yarn to move against.The top and bottom cross ! ieceson the foot-powered loom (called the cloth and warp beammust be at right angles to the warpthreads and parallel to each other. Measure carefully duringconstruction to make sure they are parallel.

Zrosspiece\


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ConstructionA. Prepare wood pieces

1. Remove bark ff necessary2. Sand and smooth rough places3. Oil wood to prevent splitting

8. Build the Frame1. Join the four pieces of wood to make a EFrectangular frame.2. The pieces AB and CD (width) shouldoverlap the pfeces EF and GH (length)

as shown in the illustration. AB andCD must be on topof EF and G!i.3. Lash or nail the joints together sothat the pieces do not move and areat right angles to each other--asshown below left.

SH

C. Prepare the Heddle Stfck1. About 2 t;o 3cm in from each end of the stick cuta groove 0.3cm deep completely around the cir-cumference.


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Set Up the Loom for Weaving,NOTE: Before setting up the warp, you may wishto read Chapter 7 , Weaves, Patterns andFinishing Touches. This may help you choosea weave and/or a pattern to set up. Plainweave or a basket weave and/or a striped orplajd pattern are recommended for your firstweaving attempt.

A. Warp the Loom

38

1. Gather the warp into a ball, or in the caseof very stiff fibers, into an easily undoneskein.2. lie one end of the warp, in an easily undoneknot such as a half-hitch, to the far insidecorner of crosspiece AB (as shown above).3. Unwind a small length of warp and bringit uleft . and around crosspiece CD (as shown at4. Bring the warp down and around AB in thesame direction you started as illustratedat bottom left,5. Continue Steps 2 thru 4 until the desirednumber of warp threads is reached (as shown

l below). (See page 127, for calculating the


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gl 6. Untie the beginning end and join with a square knotto the other end, so that they stretch diagonallyacross the back of the loom.7. Make sure all the warp threads are stretched astaut as possible.NOTE:

a.

b.C.

d.e.f.

h.

If your pattern calls for several differentcolor warp threads, such as in a plaid, startwarping as indicated in Steps 1 thru 4, andthen:When the desired number of the first colorwarp is reached, do not cut off the extrawarp but set aside the whole ball of remain-ing warp still attached to the loom.Pick up a ball or skein of the next color.Tie the end of the new color to AB using ahalf-hitch.Wrap the new color around as described inSteps 2 thru 4.When the desired number of threads have beenwound, set aside this ball like the first;do not cut it off.Start the next color in the same way. Ifyou must repeat a color, just pick up theoriginal ball of that color, pull it tautand continue winding.When all the required warp is wound aroundthe frame, untie all the beginning ends fromAB and hold them in one hand.Pick up the free ends of all the colors ofwarp and tie both groups together using asquare knot. On very wide looms it may be


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Bttom Warp1

Lay the loom Vat on a table or theground.Place the shed stick across the middleof the loom, a"r right angles to thewarp threads.Weave the sttek in and out of the tapwarp threads, going over and underevery other top warp for Plain Weave,If you are usiq another weave checkfor the properThis shed stic be left in place durina

1.2.

3.

4. the entire weaving process, but it should bifree to sl$de up and down the loom at right anglesto the warp.


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c.

ET:C.

I..P

1:ii

Place the Lease Sticks on the Loom1. Take one of the lease sticks and placeit above the shed stick, going over and. . . . .under the same top warp tnreads as didthe shed stick. (Loom should still be lying flat on ground.)2. Push this stick towards the top of the loom or crosspiece CD as shown above.3. Take the other stick and place it in the space between the shed stick andthe other lease stick as shown below.4. Weave the second stick fn and out of the topwarp, going under the warpthreads lowered by the shed stick, and over the ones raised by ft. Thiswill tighten the warp on the loom.

Slide the two lease sticks togetheruntil they are 4 to 8cm apart.


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D. Make the Heddle

6. Tie them together by putting a string through theholes at each end and tying as illustrated (left)using a square knot. This will keep the sticks to-gether and prevent them from slipping sideways.

D

Iieddm1. With the loom still lying Rodflat on the ground, lay theheddle rod across the lfft-ed to warp threads that arePn ront of the shed stick asshown.

cRockGOd

Block

Top View


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4. Tie the end of the cordor string in the grooveat one end of the heddlestick.Heddle Rod

NOTE: The next Steps 5, 6, 7and 8 describe the processof attaching the heddle tothe warp. Read the dfrec-tions through and study theillustrations before begfn- Stringning. Remember that raised andlowered warp refers to the too

3. Place a block of wood or a f!atended stone of the right sfze ateach end of the heddle stick sothat the heddle remains at thesame height as the shed stick.If the loom will be used on thelap or in an upright positionlash the blocks or stones to theframe. Do not permanently fastenthem, however, as the heddle rodmust move up and down the loomduring weaving. A simple lashingthat can be untied easily works best.Gn small looms tape can be used.

warp only. '


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8. Repeat the above process until all the lowered top warp threads are raised tothe same height by the cord. Tie the end of the cord in the groove at the otherHedd le Shed

Side view without heddle Side view with heddle in placeE. Check the Position of Heddle and Shed Stick

?. Position the heddle stick relative to the shed stick so that there is enoughroom for your fist behind the heddle rod.2. Press down on the warp behind the heddle with your fist.- IT;; 3. This should create a shed or space in frontthat !ddle and between the top warp threadsis large enough to pass your shuttle

+ thy@4. Lift up on the warp threads behindthe heddle using your fingers and57 palm. This should also create ashed big enough for the shuttle.i. 5. If your shuttle does not

y"/

24 fit through easily, adjust-ments can be made in the&.A* Lease size of the shed by movingthe heddle and shed stick

either further apart orcloser together.


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Possible positions for different size Looms


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How to Weave on a Frame LoomYou will need a Beater, Shuttle and a Stretcher to help you weave.Consult Chapter 6, "The Weaver's Tools" for directions for makingthese and other helpful tools.Steps in Weaving1. Wrap weft on to shuttle.

2. Press down on warp beh'ndheddle with fist..3. Slide shuttle into shedcreated in front of heddle.4. Move fist to next sectionof warp, press down andslide shuttle along.*5. Repeat this process untilshuttle has reached otherside of the loom. Withpractice you will develop asteady rhythm.


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6. Pull shuttle out and beatweft tightly into place witha Beater.7. Repeat from Step 3, but startat the other side of the loomand instead of pressing downon the warp, lift it up usingthe fingers and palm.*l On very large looms you may prefer touse a piece of wood instead of your

hand.


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11. Release the tension on the warp byremoving the blocks or rocks hold-ing the heddle rod. Holding thefinished weaving on both sides,pull down slowly and steadily so I IIIthat the finished cloth moves downand under the bottom crosspiece AB.

12.

13.14.

Adjust the position of the heddle,shed stick and lease sticks sothat the shed is the proper size.Weave as before on the new warp.When you reach the top beam of theloom with the lease sticks and shedstick you can advance the warp bypulling down on all the warp threadsso that the finished woven cloth moves under the bottom beam andaround to the back side of the loom.over the top beam to the front. The unwoven warp will slideAdjust the diagonal warps sothey are parallel on the front side. (They will remain twistedon the back) Move the heddle, shed stick and lease sticks intoproper position and continue weaving.


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16. Cut the wacp so that there is anequal length of extra warp threadsan both ends of the cloth. Removefrom loom and tfe ends to preventunravelIn (See pages 145-155.)

1 Pi


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Variations of the Simple Frame Loom

The Pegged Loom: This loom is sul'table for places where the weavercan work outside or where dwellings have earthenfloors.biaterfals Needed: Same as Frame Loom except instead of four cross-pieces only two are needed. These should beslightly longer than the desired width of cloth.


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Prepare the materials as described for the frame loom.

AB

c

t7

i

sticksJ CD

-i . ! : t.: !.. .,'.a

Warp the LoomSide View - Warping the Peg Loom

1. Put the two crosspieces upright in the ground, slightapart than the desired length of the weaving. ly farther2. Place the two lease st icks upright in the ground, between the twocrosspfeces and about 30cm apart.3. Tie the end of the warp to one crosspiece. Wrap the warp around


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5. Taking care to keep the warp in place, pull up the crosspiecesand lease sticks carefully from the ground and lay them flatwhere the weaving will be done.6. Drive stakes on the inside ends of each crosspiece. Makesure the warp is stretched tightly.

NOTE: An important difference between the Frame Loom andthe Pegged Loom is that the Pegged Loom does nothave a continuous warp. This means that all thewarp threads both top and bottom will be picked upby the shed stick and heddle as the weaver works.

tsta keStep 5 - Warped crosspieces lying flat on ground


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2. The blocks or stones that support the heddle will rest on theground, since there fs no frame.

3. When looping the lowered warp with the cord, remember to pickup all lowered warp threads.

Ieasesticks CD\


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How to Weave on a Pegged LoomWeaving progresses in much the same way as it does on the FrameLoom--except that the warp does not move. Instead, as the clothapproaches the heddle, the heddle, shed stick and lease sticks aremoved back. The weaver moves forward by st'tting on the finishedweavfng.


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4 The lnkleLoomThe loom shown here producesstrips of fabric about 1 meterlong by 2 to 18cm wide. Thesize of the loom can be in-creased.DIMENSIONS:eight 25cmWidth 20cmLength 45cmLENGTH OF WARPHELD: 1OOcmWIDTH FFINISHED CLOTH: 2 to 18cm

The lnhte Loom Ln ube


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Materiak ialeededFOR THE FRAME

One (1) board 3 by 5 by 45cm longTwo (2) boards 3 by 5 by 25cm longTwo (2) boards 1 by 5 by 15cm longFive (5) dowels or rounded sticks 20cm iong, 1.5cm in diameter

FOR THE HEDDLESAbout 5 meters of cotton or synthetic string

TOOLS AND SUPPLIESChiselDrillScrewdriver10 Wood screwsSandpaperOil


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A. Prepare the WO W 8. Build the Base1. Sardd$g;ssmoth all rough spots2. Oil wood to prevent splitting

1. With chisel, carve out two rec-tangular slots on the bottom ofthe 3x5x45cm board exactly asillustrated.

IL 13cm Scrfl 12cm Scm ldcmB. Budld the Base (cont'd.)

2. Place the two lx5x15cm boards in the slots so that they are flush andproject equally on both sides.3. Screw in place, using three screws


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6. Build the Frame1. Drill holes A and D in the 3x5x45cm board.aad spaced as shown. Holes should be 1.5cm in diameter

2 1.5 38 1.5 22. Drill holes 8, E, F in one 3x5x25cm board and hole C in the other 3x5x25cmboard. Holes should be L5cm in diameter and spaced as shown.

ISlU.5

li5,1.56

SCQ52-

c0 21.5

21.5

3. Screw the 3x5x25cm boards to the side of the 3x5x45cm board as shown. Usetwo screws In each.


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4. The base with uprights should now look like this.

BACK IEW

FRONT IEW


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5. Place dowels in holes. They should be tight. Loose dowels can be madetighter by wrapping paper around he ends before putting them in the holes.(NOTE: Right-handed weavers should have dowels projecting to right,left-handers to left)

Make the Heddles1. Place dowels in holes B and F2. Wrap a piece of string from the ball around the dowelsand tie with a square knot.from the dowels. Remove the string circleThis is the heddle.3. Repeat for each heddle needed. You will need halfas many heddles (or string circles) as number oflengths of warp you will use. For example 18 heddleswould be needed to weave a 18cm wide belt made up of

Set Up the Loom for Weaving


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NOTE: Before warping the loom, choose a weave and/or pattern to set up. Plainweave and a striped pattern are good choices for a first weaving project.

A. Warp the LoomIJ-2 1. Note the letters on the accompanyinga drawing of the loom. Each letter repre-sents the hole and the dowel in thatposltion. This will be used to helpyou guide the warp on to the frame.2. Move the dowel from hole F (where itwas for making the heddles) to hole3. Make one ball or easily undone skein E.of each color warp to be

4 used- ---


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5. Wrap the warp three times around dowel A, clockwise6. Take the warp from dowel A, between dowels B and E,'and then over dowelC as shown.7. Bring yarn down and around dowel D and then back along bottom of dowelsto A.8. Pull warp taut.9. Repeat this winding from A, between B and E, over C and down to Dreturning to A with the second warp.

I n I

10. Bring third warp thread from A up and over B, then over C, down to D andreturn to A.

12. Place a heddle (string


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cfrcle) over the thirdwarp as Hlustrated.

14. Pick up baTl of warp. Bring yarnfrom A to C around B and return


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15. to A.Repeat Steps 10 through 14until wm-p is desired width.Remember to alternate onewarp with a heddle andone without.

16. To end: For last two warps wrap the yarn around twice fromA to C to B to A, without heddles. Locate the firstwarp end ahd untte ft. Cut other end from ball.Tie in a square knot under dowel A.NOTE: If your pattern calls for changing

the color of the warp,pmede as follows:a. lay astde the firstcolor when the warpis at dowel A.b. Tie new color to Ausing half-httch,tind around A three

times in a ctock-wise direction.

I


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You will nee d a Beaterand a ShuttlConsult Chap e for weaving.Weaver's Too ter 6, "The1s" for di-rections forand other he making theselpful tools.

:: &rap Heft on shuttle.bilave the dowel in hole E to hole F. This will pull the warp much3. tighter.Place hand under

warp behfnd dowels8 and F. Pull


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4. Pass shuttle through shed.

5. Place hand on top of bottom warpthreads behind B and F, as illus-trated.6. Push down. Pass shuttle through.


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k Beat weft into place with a Beater.Repeat Steps 3 to 7 until you can no longer fit shuttlethrough shed.

9. Advance warp by grasping it in your hands bktween A and Band pulling toward yourself, The woven cloth will go under

10. Continue weaving until the beginning of the cloth isbehind dowel B.


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Cut warp between A and B at the heddle.11. Slfde heddles off (they can be reused) and tie end ofwarp to prevent unravelling (See pages 145-155).


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5 The Foot-Powered LooThere are two versions of the Foot-Powered Loom presented here. Di-rectfons are gfveE ffrst for building the frames for the Pit Loom(which can be fixed to a wall or ceiling) and the Free-Standing Loom.Instructions for constructing the moveable parts and for warping andweavtng on the looms follow and are the same for both of these foot-powered looms.00171 ersion

NSf6WS: Height: l2Ocm or helght from floor to cetltngWidth: IDOcmLength: 20&m

FIDTl.8OF FINiSHEDWEAVING: 2 to iDDcm

Materials Needed


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For the Frame of both wall-mounted andcefling-mounted types:Four (4) appropriately shaped forkedWee branches at least 15cn in -Idtameter at the base, and atleast 6Ocm in length from thebase to the bottom of the fork,Comnercjal lumber, 5x20~75 witha notch cut out as fndicated,may he substituted. 6Ocm

For the Frame of the wall-mountedtype only:One (1) forked tree branch at least 15cm in diameter atbase and 12Ocm long. Commercial lumber 5x2OxlZOcm with anotch cut out as indicated, may be substituted.

5cmOne (1) piece of

15cm

6Ocm


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Tooes AND SUPPLIES (FOR BOTH TYPES)SandpaperOil for WoodWood PreservativeShovelCement (Optional)

Pit Loom ConstructionA. Find a StteTh!s loom Is permanently built into the house or other builddng.Locate so that it will not interfere with other activittes and wherethe weaver will be comfortable while working.

1. Locate the loom in a building with an earthen floor. Afterthe loom is constructed the floor may be cemented over.2. Place the front of the loom in such a way that light from adoor or window will come from the weaver's side or over his

c. Erect the Frame


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1, Mark off a rectangle one meter wide by two meters long on2. the floor where the loom will be located.Dig a hole in each of the four corners. The hole should be3. about 3Ocm deep.Place the four short forked posts in the holes and fil l theearth firm?y around them.provide the firmest base. Clay or mixed clay soils willclay or cement. Hake sandy soils firmer by adding

i I1-------------__-_-_-__ 689----------

D. Build the Pit1. Hark off a second rectangle 20cm In from the front of the

loom, 60cm wide, 80cm long.


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8/8xI // // ///------------------------

///

2. Dig the pit 40 to 50cm deep, about the length of theweaver's leg from the back of the knee to the sole of the foot.


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/,c

E. Attach the Wall-Supports for the Wall-Supported Type ,I. Dig a hole 30cm deepthe rectangle. midway along the outside edge of2. Place the end of the 120cm forked post in hole and fillas described earlier.3. Place the meter length of wood in the fork and push untilit touches the wall. It should be parallel to the groundand at rfght angles with the wall. Mark the wall whereft touches.4. Remove pole and make a hole in the wall at that spot, thesame diameter as the stick.5. Put pole back into the fork and push until it is firmly


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Free-Standing Version


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DIHEHSIDt4S:eight: 13Ocm Width: 98cm ILength: 2OOcmLENGTH OF WARPHELD: 200 to 3600~1WIDTH OF CLOTH WOVEN: 2 to 9Ocm

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:Drill Wood GlueSaw 26 Wood ScrewsHammerRasp SandpaperOf1 for WoodScrewdriver

Materials Needed:For Frame: (Letters are used to identify pieces in text)

(A) Four piecss of wood - IlOcm long, 6cm in diameter OR 4x6~110(B) Four pieces of wood - 132cm long, 8cm in diameter OR 8x8~132(C) Two pieces of wood - 5x10~30(D) Two pieces of wood - 200cm long, 8cm in diameter OR 6x8~200(E) Two pieces of wood - 4x9x30cm(F) Two pieces of wood - 200cm long, 6cm in diameter OR 3x6~200(6) Two pieces of wood - 3x4~55(H) One board - 32x110, thickness ranging from 2 to 5cm(3) Two poles or sticks - 1lOcm long, Zcm in diameter

Fourteen (14) wooden pegs or dowels 15cm long, 3cm in diameter

Free-Standing Loom ConstructionA. Prepare the Wood


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:: Remove bark of unmilled tree limbs3. Sand and smooth all rough spots and edgesOf1 wood to prevent splitting8. Build the Frame (all dimensions in centimeters)

1. Trim both ends of pieces A as illustrated.110

Top View

Side View2. Cut four slots in each af the four 6 pieces using the dfmen-

sions indicated. Slots must go completely through piece.


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- w- a - ---I&L1

17

I 8

I

I

3. Shape piece C as illustrated.Drfll hole as diagramed. Sandinside until smooth.

4. Trim ends of piece D i.s illustrated. Cut a slot Zx7cm 32cmin from one end of each piece D. Slot should be 7cm long.200


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C. Join the Frame


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1. Attach each piece C to piece B in the position diagramedusing two wooden pegs and glue.

132

-

38

30

64

-

-

-

-

*


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Ic

3. Place pieces A into the corresponding slots of piecespieces C fn illustration glue and screw together. B. Mote the position of

II

J

4. Place the trimmed ends of D and F into the appropriate slots in pjeces B.f#am~es them so that the trimmed end prqjects as far as possible.

5. 3rill a hole 2cm in diameter, as close as possible to thecrosspiece at each point where the trimmed ends project.


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6. Taper the remaining eight pegs so that they are 3cm at thetop and 2cm at the bottom.7. Drtve the tapered peg into the drilled holes.%. Place piece H, the seat, between the end of the 1oom andpiece k.

Siderhl ePcmd ia.

Front

3

I

3. Glue and screw pfeces G to the top of pieces F in the locationillustrated.


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4. Place pieces J, the rods, across the top of the loom frame,resting in the notches of piece G.200

72.5 5s 72.5

Side

---_. - -

. -T _ ____i.. _.-. -.-. -:. _._ --

The Moveable Parts for Both Loom DesignsThe followfng parts--the beams, beater, comb and heddles--are designed


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to be interchangeable for both foot-powered looms. These parts arenot a permanent part of the loom frame. When necessary they can beremoved--even when there is still cloth being woven--and stored away.Thfs means that more people can weave than might be possible otherwise;it is not necessary for each weaver to have his or her own frame. Itfs possible to construct a set of moveable parts for each weaver sothat several people can share the same loom frame.I, CLOTH BEAM (SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 85)

A. Haterials Needed:One (1) straight tree limb - 125cm long, 1Ocm in dl"ameter,or milled lumber - 10 x 10 - 125cm.

B. Construction1. Trim the pjece of wood to 6cm in diameter for 115cm ofits length.2. Leave the remaining 1Ocm in diameter, but drill andsh4sel a hole 2cm by 5cm completely through one side.3. Drill a similar hole from the other side at rightangles to the first.4, Cut a notch 2cm by 90cm completely through the beam inthe 6cm diameter section. - -

THE

A.WARP BEAM cMaterials Needed:


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One (1) straighttree limb, 125cmlong, IOcm indfameter, ormilled lumberlOxlOx125cm. BEATERCLOTH -BEAM 11

6. Constrkictlon1. Construction proceeds as described for the cloth beamfrom Step 1 to Step 3.2. Cut groove 2 x 90cm only to a depth of 2cm; do not cutcompletely through the beam.

1am 6 10 rI


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III, THE BEATER (SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 85)A. Materials Needed:. Two (2) pieces of wood - 5 x 5 x 120cm(labelled A).

Two (2) pieces of wood - 1 x 4 x 120cm(labelled 8).Two (2) pieces of wood - 1 x 2 x 4cm(labelled C).

B. Construction1. Drill and chisel a hole lcm by 4cmIn each end of' both pieces A.;ty;ih the insides of the

l

3. Car*ve a groove lcm deep the lengthof both pieces A between the twoholes as shown.120

Side Front- -.r\*


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B

3. Nail piece C to the bottom ofeach piece B.4. Sand and smooth each piece B.Taper the top end to a poirat,to ease assembly.

120

c. Attach the Beater to the LoomPIT LOOM1. Ceiling type: suspend


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a rod one (1) meter longfrom 2 hooks in a ceilingbeam.

2. Wall type: suspend froma crosspiece which isattached to the wall andsupported by a fork.

3. Free-Standing:Attach to rod (J)which restsacross top offrame onpieces G.


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Backb) The beater should swing freely at the same height asthe top edge of the cloth beam.

IV. THECOMB

ii

A. Materials Needed:1. Four (4) pieces of lightweight wood - 0.2 x 0.8 x 100cm.

5. A sharp knife.B. Construction


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1. Take two of the pieces A and one piece C and placethem together sandwich style as shown.

2. Securely knot the end ofthe cotton string aroundone piece A at the endas shown. A small notchcan be made with theknife to prevent slippingif necessary.

3. toop in and out of the two ends ofpieces A in a ffgure eight about sixtime.4. Bring the string parallel to piece Aon one side past piece C.

,


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7, Pull down and then uploop. Knot sha*i'& beof the meter length.

to tighten theon the side

8. Repeat Steps 1 through 7 with thegther two (2) pieces of A, attachingthem to the bottom of piece C.

, Place one of the sllvcrs of reed be-tween the ttis stfcks.around as diagramed. Loop the string

. There should be a space of about O.lcmto 0.2cm created by the string. Ifthere is no space, or if ?.he space istoo small for your warp, either startover using the string doubled, or makea second loop as done in Step 9.

1. Repeat Step 9 at bottom, fastening thereed in place at both ends.

12. Mace another sliver of reed in positton. Repeat the knot


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\ t e\A C -B Side

TOPThe Comb Is Now Complete

V, THE HEDDLES (SEE ILLUSTRATIONON PAGE851A. Materia ls Needed for two (2) Heddles.

Note: Both looms may use up toeight (8) heddles each.

2. Cut a piece of string 140cmlong and tie it in the notchat one end.


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STEP (aTOPVIEW

iI3. Tfe one end of a ball ofstring to the same notch.4. Place the rsd an top of theboard.5. Hold the shorter string tautalong the top length of therod. (This string is shown as

black fn the illustrations).6. Steps a thru f show the "looping" process. Pass theball of string tinder the board as shown in Step f.Every ten loops pass the ball between the rod and .the board to fasten it to the rod.

NOTE: The total number of loops made should be evenand they should be double the number of spacesin your comb.

STEP (b


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STEP (fSIDE VIE#

7. As the loops are made they are slipped off the board andthe board is moved forward.8. blhen the desired number of 190~s is reached, tfe bothstrings in the groove at the other end.

9. Using the second rod, r,epeatthe abbve except this timewhen each 'loop i% passedunder the board pick up aloop from the first roUand pass the ball ofstrfng through that aswel?,10.


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I I I

ACHINERY FOR THE HARRESSESMaterials Needed: /


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1. Two f2j smallpulleys.

2. tight rope, lcmin diameter.?. . Four (3) hooks,either of heavywire or appropriately shaped twigs.

\1 saaL-l4. Two (2) pieces of wood about 3cm x 8cm x20cm.5. Heavy rope, 2cm in diameter.6. A p3ece of pipe, metal tubtng or strongwood 3Dcm long, and about 1,s - 2cm indiameter.

8. Foot Pedal Construction1. Drill holes 2cm in 5diameter in thetdp of the twowooden pfeces asshown. 152. Drill holes 2cm

c?

4. Cut two pieces cf light rope, Tie one end toa hook, thread it.over the pulley wheel andtie the other end to another hook.


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5. Hang heddles by loop from the hooks. Theyshould hang evenly and at the same heightor slightly higher than the beater and thecomb. Adjust lengths of ropes if necessary.

6. Put a secure knot in the ends oftwo short pieces of heavy rope.Thread them through holes indrilled blocks of wood so thatthe knots are on the bottom.7. Thread metal pipe, tube r stick through holes inthe side of wooden blc ).

I


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P

Warp the Foot-Powered LoomMOTE: Before warping the loom, read Chapter 7: Heaves, Patterns and FinishingTouches for help with se lecting a weave and/or pattern for a first pro-


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ject. Plain weave, basket weave and/or a striped or plaid pattern arerecmnended for the first weaving. It is also necessary to have thesaddle (p. 115) ready before beginning.1, MEASURING mu WARP (See also Warping Board pp. 31 & 124.)

A. Equipment Needed:Four wooden or metal stakes about 30cm high

6. Measuring Procedure:1. Place two stakes in the ground: the total distance apartdesired for the piece of weaving (2 to 36 meters).2. Place two more stakes about 30cm inside the two stakes.3. Tie the beginning of the warp (wound in a ball) to one

of the outer stakes. Walk between the stakes wrappfngthe warp In the pattern illustrated.

4. Count each length. It helps to tie warp threads in

c. Gather up Warp in a Warp Chain.1. Slide the loop off at one end of the stakes.


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2. Open the loop and ?ut your hand through. Draw up asection of warp and bring it through the first loopto make a second loop.

STEP C.2.a.

STEP C.2.b.

STEP C.2.c.

STEP C.2.d.

II, WIND THE WARPA. Equipment Needed:

One (1) stick cut to fit the groove in the warp beam.


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One (1) stick that fits the hole in the end of the warp beam.Several thfn sticks - 90cm long.

B. Procedure:1. Place one of the open loops overthe end of the warp beam. Slideto center.2. Place warp beam on either of thebeam supports of the loom. Itdoes not matter which support orwhich direction the warp is goingas long as it can be extended fulllength. This, of course, will dependon the location of the loom.

(lf it Is impossible to use the loom supports because of inadequate space, you canset up two forked posts similar to the beam supports on the pit loom (see page 97)in an open space. These can then be left in place permanently for future ?Jrping.)3. Prevent the warp from slipping as it is wound by:

a) Cutting a stick to fit into the groove in the warp beam.b) Pushing the stick against the warp and into the groove.c) Turning the warp beam in a clockwise directlon so that the stick

4. The following steps require two or three peop le:a) One person inserts a stick in the hole in thewarp beam and s?owly turns the beam in a clockwisedirectt'on winding on the warp. Every turn or so,


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he or she inserts a thin stick between the layersof the wary,.in> Another person holdsat f~llf length, keep i:t 3s wound.c) A third person openswarp threads between

the end of the warp extendedng it taut and straight 2s

the raddle and lays groups ofthe nails. The radd:e isclosed and tied shut. Then, holding the raddle,he or she guides the warp as it is wound, makingsure it ts evenly spread. if no other perstin is

c&kh~\ ,,q,Aa i' ;;;i;;A; Na;ssist, the raddle can be tied tob .1 ,

5. Place the lease ~ttcks (two (Z), one meter-lengths ofreed or trambooj in the positions showi! just beforewinding thr end of the warp on to the beam. Tfetogether as shown.


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THREAD THE HEDDLES AND COMBThe following process requires two people if it is to be donequickly and efficiently. (It is possible for one person toperform the task if he or she threads small sections of thewarp--first through the heddle and, then, reversing his orher position, threading the warp through the comb.)


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A. Equipment Needed:Small size crochet hook or bent piece of wire or sharp knife.

B. Threading Procedure:1. Two people sit facing one another with the two heddles(removed from the loom) and with the comb suspended

between them from the backs of two chairs or from thebeam supports.

3.

4.

cut the end loop of the warp afterslid ing the two lease sticks back tofree about 30cm of warp.Take one piece of warp at a timein 0 rder (check order agafnst


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lease stiiks) and thread itthrough the heddles frllowingthe steps below: w -A:tep Close upof one heddle.

Step D: Pass warp threadthrough loop.


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.I edd le B- /

5. In Plain Weave, every otherthread is inserted through atwist in the near heddle. Thealternate thread is inserted ina twist in the far heddle. (For other weaves, and in cases wheremore than two (2) heddles will be used, see Chapter 7).

6. Insert (second person) a crochet hook, needle or sharp knife edgethrough one of the dents of the comb after the thread is inserted.

Iv, PLACE THE WARP ON THE LOOM1. Place the warp beam on its supportsso that the warp extends out to thecloth beam, and unrolls from the top .


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of the beam.2. Use a pole such as a broomstickto wedge between the hole in thewarp beam and the floor, to preventit from turning. 73. Replace the heddles on the pulleysand attach the footpedals (see pages96 8 97).4. Open beater and insert the comb in thegrooves. Close it snugly so that the comb is firmly caughtand does not bend or move when the warp is pulled.

1 I- -


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2. Sit down at the loom. Tie each group of ten (10) warp threadsto the looped cord on the beam (do not undo the knots madeduring threading). .Use the following knot to tie them.

iow to Weave on a Foot Powered LoomIOU will need a shuttle and stretcher for weaving. Consult Chapter 6ihe Weaver's Tools, for directions for making these and other h~lpfu;;ools.


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Steps in Weaving on Both Looms. To start or end weft: take end anifF;ingthrough several opposing warps.weaving several more rows cut off endeven with weaving.

4. Place weft at oblique angleto the warp.5. Depress left footpedal.


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6. Push weft firmly into placeusing the beater. (below)

11. Put the stretcher into place andcontinue weaving.cc-. TV_ 'T


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12. Release the warp beam and cloth beams---- - and turn them forward one hole when-- there is no more space between thefabric and the beater. Refasten andcontinue weaving.

13. Untie the warp from the beam and thread thecloth through the slot in the beam as shownafter l/2 meter of cloth or more has beenwoven l

:tion ofshowingcloth wrapped around.

14. As the warp shffts to the cloth beam on the free-standfng loom,it may be necessary to balance the weight of the weaver and thecloth by placfig a rock on a board at the back of the loom.


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6 The Weavers ToolsEach loom requires certain tools to help wdth the process of weaving.The following chart lists these tools as well as which looms requirethem. Instructions for making the tools follow.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR EACH LOOMTOOL FRAME LOOM INKLE LOOM FOOT-POWERED OOMBeaterRaddleShuttlecarpetboatSkeiner

yesno

yesoptionalYes

ye$no

yesnoyes

noyesyesoptionalyes

design for a beater for simp?e looms. It is usually a toothed toolwhich can be slipped between the warp threads and beaten againstthe weft. It should have some weight behind it, but at the sametime not be so heavy as to tire the weaver's hand.The frame loom and the inkle loom both require similar beaters.


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Beaters can be constructed specifically for the looms, or theycan be made from objects found about the home.A. Improvised Beaters

1. Forks: metal table forks makesuitable beaters, especially whenused with a medium warp on a fairlynarrow piece of weaving.2. Metal Hair Comb: a metal toothedhair comb can be used for weavingshaving rather fine warps.

8. Constructed Beaters.1. Nail and blood Beater: drive arow of nafls completely through

a length of wood about 30cm long.The heads of the nails shouldproject evenly. Sand and smooththe wood to make it easy on thehand.

2. Carved Wooden Beater: from a pieceof well-seasoned, fine-grained

The RaddleThe ".raddle" is used to gufde the warp evenly onto the warp beamduring the warping of the foot-powered loom.


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Materials Needed:2 pieces of wood about 3 x 3 x 1OOcmNailsChiselHammerConstruction:1. Hammer nails 5cm apart9 in an even row into one ofthe pieces of wood.

2. Chfsel a groove in the other pieces about l/3 thedepth of the projecting nail heads.3. Grooved piece should fft snuggly over the nail heads.Use:1. Place the piece with the nails upright under the warp.

The ShuttleA shuttle is often used to thread the weft throughthe warp. Stiff fibers, such as cane,reed, straw and leaves, can probablybe pushed through the shed by hand


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and no shuttle is needed. Coarse,but flexfble fibers such as goathair,jute, old rags and plastic strips aswell as some finer threads can be putfnto place using a "Carpet Shuttle."Very fine wefts such as linen, cottonand silk can be put into place usinga "boat shuttle."

Weaving stiff fibers by hand

Carpet Shuttles in assorted sizesThe Carpet Shuttle

Materials Needed:Flat pieces of wood 60cm long or smaller if your loom is smaller(You will probably require one for each color weft),

5. Wrap weft around shuttle as shown.


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The Boat ShuttleMaterials Needed:One piece of light, easiCarving knifeSmall, hollow tubes 7cmPiece of wire 15cm longConstruction:

ly carved wood about 5 x 8 x 20cm

long such as bamboo or plastic tubing.

1. Shape the wood so that the two

Use:


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1. Wind yarn on to the tube - or bobbin.2. Slide the wire through the tube.3. Place bobbin in hole in shuttle, puttingone end of the wire in the hole andthe other in the groove.

BEmpty andwound bobbin

Putting bobbin in shuttle

The SkeinerIn al.most all weaving, there are times when yarn has to be measured.The skeiner will help you measure continuous strands of yarn andalso make skeins to prevent the thread from tangling.


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Materials Needed:A tree branch 6Ocm long which has twosmaller branches projecting from thesame side which are at least 40cmapart.Construction:1. Trim off any other branches andcut the two selected ones so thatthey project 5 to 1Ocm.2. Remove bark and sand and oilwood,

Use:

D:

Yarn is wound onto the skeiner,looping it around the two pro-jecting branches. If necessary,the thumb holds bottom loops inplace.To determine the length of yarn:a. Measure the distance betkeen the two pto

The Skein WinderThe "skein winder" is used to hold and turn skeins of yarn as the-y areunwound either into balls for warping, or onto shuttles and bobbins.The skein is opened up and placed over the top, so that there Is nochance of it tangling, and then rotated so that the weaver can stay


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seated at the loom as the yarn is unwound.Although it is not an essentfal tool, it is an extremely useful one,and well worth the effort of construction. It will save many hours ofuntangling skeins of yarn.

Materials Needed:Two (2) pieces of wood (A) 1 x 4 x 30cmTwo (2) pieces of wood (8) 1 x 4 x 50cmFour (4) pieces of wood (C) 1 x 4 x 60cmOne (1) length of pipe 2-3cm in diameter, 120cm longOne (1) old bucket or gallon can with lid removedCement, saw, hammer, drill, nailsConstruction:1. Place pipe in center of bucket or can.Make sure it is perpendicular.2. Pour cement around pipe until container

5. Take pieces of wood (B). Drill a holethrough the midpoints of both pieces. Thehole should be slightly larger than the

L---sL-__11 0 I


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diameter of the pipe.6. Overlap both pieces (B) at right anglesso that the holes line up and the piecesform an X. Nail together.7. Nail pieces (C) from the ends of cross-pieces (A) to the ends of the crosspieces(8) as shawn.

8. When cement is set, slide.frame over pipe. Pipe shouldpass through bottom hole andrest in the top hole, Thewood frame should spinfreely.

The StretcherYou may add the weft in one of two ways.(1) Each length of weft can be a single stripslightly longer than the width of the loom.Each length is put in individually and the


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ends hang freely on each side and later becomea fringe on the finished piece. This techniqueis often used with mats. (2) Or you canwrap a much longer weft on a shuttle and passit through the shed. When it reaches theother side, the shed is changed and theshuttle is turned and put through the shedin the opposite direction. This techniqueproduces a finished edge called the Selvedqe,which makes the cloth much stronger. However,there is a tendency for the edges of the clothto pull in slightly as the weaving progresses. Fringed edgesYou can make a "stretcher,"described below, to keepthe edges parallel. S&edge

1

2. Cut three deep teeth in one end of each piece of wood.

0


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Use :t. After weavfng progresses about 10cm from the beginning,hook the teeth of each stick into the selvedge or endwarp threads just below the last row of weft.2. Push downward on both sticks until the edges are parallel.

3. Bind the sticks :!II iitogether where theyoverlap, using thestring-or leather. -=I=----- ;-T!rl I 4II 1

The Warping Board for aFoot-Powered LoomIf it is inconvenient because of climate, or space to measure thewarp outside on the ground (as described on page 99), the followingtool can be used. It may be made of wood or built dfrectly intothe wall of a house.


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Materials Needed:Two (2) pieces of wood 0.5 x 4 x 60cmTwo (2) pieces of wood 0.5 x 4 x 1OOcmEighteen (18) dowels or rounded pieces2cm in diameter by 15cm long.

(A).(B).of wood,

Nails or screws or four (4) bolts and wing nutsif the warping board will be taken apart forstorage.Drill, hammer, sandpaper.

Construction:1. Nail, screw or bolt pieces (A) and (B) together

to make a rectangle that measures about 50 x 90cmon the inside.2. Drill holes in the positions shown on the illustration.

NO

Use:1. Determine the length the warp will be.2. Measure a piece of yarn or string the length ofthe warp.


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3. Wrap it around the posts on the board to determinehow many posts will be used. Follow the patternof wrapping shown in the diagram.4. Tie warp end to first post A. Follow pattern setby string. When you reach last post reverse andretrace your steps back to A.5. Continue wrapping, counting each length. Tie intobundles of ten (10) or twenty (201, to rrrevent losingcount.6. When done, tie the end of the warp to the beginningof the warp.7. Tie a piece of contrasting string where the warpcrosses between A and B and R and Q.8. Remove from board by chaining as described on pages.99-100.

1


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7 Weaves, Patterns andFinishing Touches -Planning the FabricBefore warping the loom, it is necessary to decide:

-- Width-- Length-- Amount of warp and weft needed-- Weave to be used-- Pattern-- Finishing needed or desiredDetermining Length and WidthCloth Width: The width of the loom frame limits the maximumadth of the cloth, but the same loom can be used to makenarrower cloth. It is wise to use an uneven number of warpthreads; in this way both edge warps are in the same posi-tion and patterns can be more easily centered.

There are several adjustments which can be used to get a more accurateresult from this formula.Frinqe Allowance: Make an allowance for fringe at bothends of each article woven. Even if the edge will be hemmed,leave at least 1Ocm for tying off the warp before hemming.


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Very elaborate fringes will, of course, require much morethan 1Ocm of warp at each end.Fiber Allowance: If using more than one type of fiber forthe weft, adjust the amount of thread needed to take intoaccount the different diameters of weft being used:1. Determine the number of horizontal threads per cm for each fiber,2. Determine the length o f cloth containing each fiber.3. Multiply the result of step 1 by the result of step 2 for each fiber.4. Multiply the result of step 3 by the total width of the cloth.

Keeping RecordsIt is hard to remember all the different threadings, yarns, patterns,etc. that are used in weaving a piece of cloth. Keep a record (asillustrated) of this information on a ca?d or in a notebook. Thenit will be possible to make the same cloth again without doing thecalculations over again each time. If there is a small piece of


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the fabric left, attach that to the record as well.

SAMPLEWEAViNG ECORD

Article:Dates Woven:Warp:

We -# per cm -total length -

Weft:type -# per cm -

Loom Weaves

Frame Loom Plain weave


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Inkle Loom

Foot-Powered Loom

Basket weaveRib weavePlain weaveBasket deaveRib weavePlain weaveBasket weaveRib weaveTwill weaveHerringbone twillsDouble weave

Drafting Threading PatternsAfter chasing a weave or pattern, the warp is threadedthrough the heddles in the proper order to produce thatweave. The diagram shows the order in which the warpwill be threaded. This order* or pattern, is called thedraft of the weave or pattern.

-

The foot-powered loom, on the other hand, has two or moreireddl e rods.one, heddle. Every thread must pass through one, and onlyDrafts for this loom will show two or morebars. The lowest bar on the page represents the rod closestto the weaver. The numbers represent the foot pedals runningleft to right (make sure the foot pedals are tied in thisorder.)


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43 t I Ii%%4 I I EmI I I I I lzs?%i I I I J2[ I I liiz@za I I Ez4 I I m I I tiBzi I I 111 I i I @4ZZZl I I BZ4 I I Em I I m I 1

on1 2

DRAFT FOR HARNESS FOOT-POWERED LOOM

Plain WeaveIn plain weave the weftthreads. crosses over and under alternate warp

Drafts of Threading for Plain WeaveFrame, Inkle Looms:

Foot-Powered Loom:


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21

Basket Weave1n basket weave two or more adjacentwarp threads are lifted togetherand two or more weft threads areinserted together, in other words,2 warp/2 weft or 4 warp/2 weft.

Rib Weaveib WeaveIn rib weave, different numbers ofn rib weave, different numbers ofwarp are lifted alternately; forarp are lifted alternately; forexamp?e 3 warp/l warp or 4 warp/Zxamp?e 3 warp/l warp or 4 warp/Zwarp.arp.


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RIB WEAVEDrafts of Threading for Rib Weave

Frame, Inkle Looms:

Foot-Powered Loom:


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, HERRINGBONE TWILL

Draft of Threading for Herringbone Twill2 [ I I Essi ISH I 1 hp lssl I I 13 [ I Es4 I I lsq &$A 1 1 &y J )4tiEs-l I III Isa I t I I tssz$ssq

Variation of Twill WeavesAfter a twill is threaded, different twill weaves can be created by

A basic twill threading treadledin a different order mightproduce the following:

113 BROKEN TWILL

l/3 Broken Twill:


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1 2 4 3 1 2 4 3, etc.

212 TWILLTwo foot pedals can be pressedtogether. For example: (l-2)(2-3) (3-4) (4-1) will producea 2/2 twill.

FacingsBalanced weave: Both the warp andweft show equally: most loomsproduce this kind of weave whenthe warp and the weft are the


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BALANCED WEAVE

same diameter and evenly spaced

Warp-faced weave: Only the warp showson the finished cloth: usually pro-duced when the warp is thicker-thanthe weft, or if the weft is morewidely spaced than the warp. TheInkle loom usually produces a warp-faced cloth.

Color Pattern Weavesbolor of either the warp orweft. The facing can be eitherwarp or weft-faced. If thewarp varies in colors the result


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will be vertical stripes; if theweft varies in color, horizontalstripes will result.

STRIPESWARP-FACED CLOTH

I I OLOR 1

Broken Stripes:ctoth. one On warp or weft-facedthread of a contrastingcolor-placed between groups of -another color produces a brokenor dotted line.


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BROKENTRIPE

Plaids: When the color ofbothhe warp and the weft isvaried, and theacina isbalanced a plaid will result.Threading as for plain weave.


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cl COLOR 1i!ilzl,~,,y OLOR 2 COLOR 3

b. In tapestry weaving,put in row by row. all the colors of the pattern areIn other words, if the row has partof a red flower, a green leaf and a yellow background,then you must put in red, yellow and green weft for thatrow before you change the heddle position (see illustration.)


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CLOSE-UP OF TAPESTRY WEAVESHOWING THREE COLORS,

IIMlilllMllll~ j(TAPESTRY BEING WOVEN

j/l


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Interlocking over Common Warp:produces a strong, continuous fabric;the edges between the different colorsof the design are feathery or saw-toothed in effect and not as sharpas in the slit method.

Knotted WeavesKnotted weaves produce a pile or shag-faced cloth. Thread the loomfor plain weave. Knot short lengths of weft around two warp threads,as shown. The knots are illust*ated below. After a row of knots,several rows of plain weave are woven to strengthen the cloth. Thenthe tails of the knots are trimmed to produce the pile or are leftlong to produce a shag.


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GHIORDESNOT SENNA NOTKnotted weaves are used generally for heavy rugs and carpets. Theycan also be used for jackets and blankets. When worn with the shagon the inside, an insulating effect results and the garments areextra warm.

b. Shag Finish: A shaggy finishdoes not require as manyknots per cm2 as does thepile. A good range is from4 to 5 per cm2. Wool, mohairand soft synthetic mixesproduce attract ive shags.Tails of knots should be


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about 5 to 8cm.

2. Cutting the Weft for Knotted

c. Looped Shag: A shag can also beproduced by putting a weftthrough the warp and then pullingthe loops out of the weft (asshown left). This row is alternat-ed with several rows of verytightly woven plain weave. Thetightly woven plain weave isnecessary because there is noknot to hold the loops of weftin place.

WeavesIn order to cut uniform lengths of yarnfor knotting, make a gauge from a piece Aof wood or heavy cardboard. Wrap yarn //

Seivedgeb. At the selvedge, take the yarn overand under the two outside warpthreads. Do not make a knot. Thiswill give you a ,smooth edge.


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Finishing TouchesThis section describes techniques for finishing off woven articles.After an article is woven, it is necessary to secure the weft at bothends to prevent it from unraveling. Several methods of tying off thewarp are presented here. You will also find directions for joiningtwo woven pieces of cloth as well as suggestions for bag handles.

OVERHANDNOTTED FRINGE1. Cut the warp at'both ends; leave about 15cm.2. Separate the warp into groups each having the samenumber of threads in each. Groups should not be wthan lcm.3. Take one group and make a loop as shown below.

'ider

SIMPLE HEMMING1. Cut the warp at both ends, leaving about 8cm in length._ a2. Separate the warp into groups having the same numberof threads in each.


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3. Tie each group with an overhand knot.4. Fold over the edge to the back.5. Tuck under the tied warp.6. Hem with an overcast stitch.

SimptfZ Hemming

TWINING


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1. Cut a piece of weft six times thewidth of the cloth,2. Mark the center of this length andwind each end into a butterfly.3. Place midpoint of yarn around thefirst 4 warp threads at right edge.4. Bring end on top o f the warp underthe next group of four.5. Bring end below warp, up and overthe same 4 warp threads.

12 34 56 78 124. Take the se venth aneighth ends and wraover and ba ck the t

to sixth en ds.

idhPird

5. Repeat far each gro 'up of


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warp.

SQURE KNOTTED FRINGES ?!ACR1. Secure the weft using twining or the

Philippine Tie.2. Separate the warp into groups of four, or multiples of four.3. The following illustrations show how to make a square knot.

6. More patterns and techniques for macrame can be found insome of the sources listed at the end of this manual.FINGERWOVEN DGESThis technique, although time-consuming, produces a strong,durable edge very suitable for bags where the warp edgeforms the opening of the bag.


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1. Leave about 8cm of warp on each end.2. Lay fabric on flat surface and separate the first 5 or7 warp threads.3. lake the first thread and weave it in and out of the

next four threads.

6. Weave second thread through the next four. Pulldown toward fabric.7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 picking up a new thread each timeone is woven and pulled down.8. With this technique the warp lays against the fabric,It can be braided and tacked down to produce an


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attractive edge.

ADDINGFRINGESometimes you may want tq put a fringe on the selvedges, oryou may wish to make a fringe of yarn different from thewarp threads.1. Tb Add Fringe to Warp Ends.

a. Hem edge as described under hemming (page 146)b. Cut yarn for fringe twice as long as desired.c. Using a needle, insert each piece of yarn intoedge from front to back, and then through frontagain as shown (below).d. Fold ends over and pull through loop.

HANDLESHandles for bags of all kinds can be made in many ways. Ahandle should meet the following requirements.

Support the weight of what will be carried in the bag.Be attached well.


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Match the yarn and colors used in the bag.1. Monk's Cord

This is the easiest and quickest way to make a handle.Use a strong but flexible fibe? that will stand heavyuse - such as 4 ply carpet wool, heavy linen or cotton.a. Determine how many strands you need, by takingtwo or more pieces of yarn and twisting themtogether tightly to see how thick a handle itmakes.b. Cut the desired number of strands three times the

finished length.C. Put an overhand knot in one end and place on a hookon a wall or stake in the ground.

9- Whip stitch the ends (see below).


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Braidsa.b.c.

d.

Select a sumber of strands to makethe handle the thickness deslrad.Cut into lengths twice as long asdesired handle.Separate into 3 groups for a three-strand braid, or into 4 groups fora four-strand braid.Braid as illustrated. (It is helpful

FOUR-STRANDRAID


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3. Attaching the HandlesAttach the handles securely to the body of thebag. The following method offers the moststrength, plus the option of quickly adding anew handle if the original breaks or becomes worn.1. Detachable Handle.

c. Select a sturdy yarn that matches the bag and tieend around cord.d. Draw end of yarn through cord ring and then backthrough its own loop making a half-hitch.e. Repeat, making half-hitches completely around thecord until it is completely covered.


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._.- /. - .-

9* Tie handle to loops.f. Repeat steps 1 to 5 on the left corner

Joining Two Pieces of Woven FabricMost looms make cloth of only limited width; therefore, itis sometimes necessary to join woven pieces together forlarger articles such as rugs, bedspreads, sheets, ortablecloths.When joining two or more pieces, weave each section so thatthe pattern and weave match on the edges being joined. Use


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strong thread or yarn in a color that either matches orcontrasts with the fabric, depending upon the effect desired.BALL STITCH1. Butt the selvedges of the pieces to be joined together sothat the pattern matches.2. Baste tightly with targe stitches to keepthe pieces in place. -L I3. Fasten thread on right selvedge at top.4. Br?ng needle diagonally across left toright.

c

7. Stagger the stitches so no stitch is opposite one on theother selvedge.

8. Contfnue steps 4 to 6 until bottom isreached. Tie off joining thread.


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8 Where to Find MoreInformationBooksBress, Helene. Inkle Weaving, New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1975.

lete information for creating all kinds of patterns using the Inkle loom.Contains plans for a fl.oor model Inkle loom that weaves longer strips than theloom in this manual. An invaluable tool for anyone interested in all thepussrbilities of the Inkle loom.

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Handloom Construction33 778

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Transcript of Handloom Construction33 778