INSIDE: INDIA COSTA RICA SEYCHELLES RIVER CRUISES …...The Russian theme for this special occasion...

INSIDE: INDIA COSTA RICA SEYCHELLES RIVER CRUISES JORDAN EUROPEAN SHORT BREAKS

2017

TRAVELLERH A S L E M E R E

ABTA No.A2825

2 CONTRIBUTORS Find out more about our expert team of travellers

4 INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS Gemma’s maiden, inspiring voyage to India

5 GRENADA & SEYCHELLES Gemma & Ray revisit Grenada; Jackie’s in paradise

6 RIVER CRUISES Gemma on the Rhine & Moselle; Terry tours the Danube

7 COSTA RICA Susie goes off the beaten track in Central America

8 JORDAN & ITALIAN VILLAS Gemma & Ray in the Middle East and a weekend in Lucca

9 TUSCANY & AMSTERDAM Jackie on foot in Tuscany; Aly reminisces in Amsterdam

10 SOUTH AFRICA & ICELAND Hanna is in love with South Africa & Susie’s 4x4 adventures

11 WANDERING STAR The lovely Joanna Lumley, talks travel, music and opera

12 SHORT BREAKS Terry and Hanna enjoy Zurich, Tenerife and Greece

13 WHAT’S NEW Haslemere Literary Luncheon; Fab Caribbean prize!

14 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2017-18 Where to go worldwide from January to December...

15 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2017-18 ...and more ideas from January to December

Published in 2016Haslemere Travel Ltd, 2/4 Petworth Road, Haslemere, Surrey, GU27 2HRTel: 01428 658 777

© COPYRIGHT HASLEMERE TRAVEL

Whilst every effort has been taken in compiling this publication, Haslemere Travel cannot accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions. Haslemere Travel reserves all rights including copyrights in this Guide. This Guide may not be copied, reprinted, reproduced or transmitted in any form or in part without the prior written consent of Haslemere Travel. Haslemere Travel will take any necessary legal steps including issuing proceedings and seeking damages to enforce its rights in this Guide. Information correct at time of going to print. Subject to change without notice. Hotels and facilities featured are detailed only as a guide and not given as a recommendation or recommended above any other. Inclusion in this Guide should not be seen as a recommendation by Haslemere Travel.

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Printed on certified paper from managed forests using vegetable based inks.

CONTENTS W E L C O M E

My first year as owner of Haslemere Travel has certainly been busy and eventful! Having just returned from two amazing trips to Jordan (see page 8), I barely had time to dust the sand off my shoes before flying to Lisbon for the last little jaunt of the year. But that’s the way we like it here – our passion for travel and our frequent visits to worldwide luxury destinations, in search of up-to-date knowledge and exclusive benefits for our clients, is what sets us apart from any other travel company. As they say, it’s not always what you know, but who you know. (We’re thrilled Joanna Lumley told us her travel tales, see page 11...)

We have also been working hard on organising new events. The latest of these is our exciting Haslemere Travel Literary Evening in May, which will be part of the 2017 Haslemere Festival.

The Russian theme for this special occasion includes Anna Pasternak, author of a new book about the woman who inspired her great-uncle, Boris Pasternak, to write Dr Zhivago; as well as Downton Abbey’s celebrated producer Liz Trubridge, who will be bringing the book to TV screens soon. Excitingly, we will also be launching a bespoke Russian travel experience in partnership with Kirker Holidays.

One of my happiest tasks in 2016 has been to proudly collect several industry awards on behalf of the team, which take pride of place in our shop. And in the spirit of rewards, it is my great pleasure to announce that for the first time, Haslemere Travel will be rewarding loyal clients with the opportunity to win a Caribbean holiday, to be taken in 2018. Every client who books a holiday with us in 2017 will be entered into the prize draw – the more you book, the more entries you will receive (see page 13 for more details.)

Do follow us on twitter, facebook and Instagram, check our website or send me an email to sign up to our regular newsletter and we can keep you informed of the very best holiday offers, our travel news and forthcoming events.

I hope you enjoy this magazine and we look forward to helping you plan your next travel adventure.

GEMMA ANTROBUS Owner

Cover Image: The awe-inspiring Treasury at Petra, Jordan. See Gemma’s Jordan report on page 8.

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As well as the team in our shop (many of whom are pictured above), Haslemere Travel also boasts a bespoke division of Elite Travel Consultants (pictured left with Gemma), selling luxury travel to their own client databases.

Based across the UK in locations as wide ranging as Edinburgh, West Sussex, London and Dorset, these passionate and knowledgeable team members enjoy full admin support from our Haslemere HQ and benefit from regular training and educational opportunities.

If you would like to get in touch with one of our Elite Consultants or find out how you could join this team, contact Gemma via email at: [email protected]

C O N T R I B U T O R S

OUR ELITE CONSULTANTS

Room with the best view? Ladera, St Lucia – 1,000ft above the sea and between the Piton mountains

Most romantic hotel? Ladera, St Lucia – where we had our honeymoon

We never forget to pack... Insect repellent, Gemma having had malaria twice

Room with the best view? The Dolder Grand overlooking Lake Zurich (page 12) or the Felix Bar on the 28th floor of the Peninsula hotel, Kowloon Hong Kong. Hard to choose...

Most romantic hotel? The Ocean Pavilion Suite at Huvafen Fushi, Maldives

I never forget to pack... Anything!

Room with the best view? Wildflower Hall, Shimla, 8,000ft up in the Himalayas

Most romantic hotel? Tintswalo, Atlantic Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa

I never forget to pack... A toothbrush

Room with the best view? On safari from our tent in Kenya where we watched zebra, giraffe and wildebeest wandering past

Most romantic hotel? Kiwayu in Kenya

I never forget to pack... A good book

Room with the best view? Ms Savor (Tauck) cruising along the Danube - so many beautiful views (see p6)!

Most romantic hotel? Gran Hotel Son Net, Mallorca

I never forget to pack... My own case! You don’t get nick-named “Lady Lost Luggage” for nothing!

Room with the best view? Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur, India. Or Hotel Danieli, Venice

Most romantic hotel? Villa San Michele, Florence or almost anywhere on Tioman Island, Malaysia

I never forget to pack... My camera

GEMMA & RAY TERRY

SUSIE JACKIE

HANNA F ALY

[email protected] [email protected]



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GEMMA’S FIRST TRIP TO INDIA WAS AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS

After an easy, direct flight with Virgin to New Delhi, in April I took my first steps in India. I was immediately amazed by all the wondrous colours, sights and smells, my senses were on full alert.

After a comfortable night in the capital at the Oberoi Gurgaon hotel, I took a brief orientation tour, driving past the Presdient’s House, Parliament House and admiring the most imposing features of renowned Surrey architect Sir Edwin Lutyens’ designs for Delhi. A visit to the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, the largest Sikh temple in Delhi, with its glistening gold dome, was inspirational. Our fascinating day ended with dinner at the iconic 1930s, 5-star hotel Imperial.

The following morning we caught a short domestic flight to Dehradun, with a one-hour transfer in air-conditioned, chauffeured vehicles to Ananda in the Himalayas, a renowned destination spa in the foothills of the Himalayas (pictured above, top right).

Nothing prepares you for your first sight of this mountain range, it is the definition of awe-inspiring and one I will never forget. Located in the tranquil foothills, this extraordinary hotel, close to the mythological cities of Haridwar and Rishikesh, is surrounded by forests, overlooking the sacred Ganges as it meanders in the distance.

But the true essence of India and the highlight event for me was the lighting of the lamps for Ganga Aarati at Rishikesh, a wonderful, Hindu spiritual experience; performed each evening at sundown on the banks of the holy river, it starts with sacred chants and a fire ceremony and ends with singing by saffron-robed disciples as the sun sets. A photo opportunity not to be missed (pictured above, bottom left).

Back in Delhi, I ended my stay with a night at one of India’s newest and most luxurious destination resorts, the all-suite ITC Grand Bharat, which is a 1.5 hour drive from the capital.

Prior to going to India, I was excited but a little apprehensive about my inaugural visit – including fears about stomach upsets – but they were very quickly dissipated. Yes, the driving can be hair-raising, with 8-lane motorways and cars avoiding cows every now and then – but the people we met were universally welcoming and kind, I felt very well for the entire stay and I can’t wait to go back and experience the many wondrous sights and sounds I found on this extraordinary visit.

The views may leave you breathless, but the hotel takes you back to a calm, bygone age, as the façade of the palace of the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal fronts the hotel. Having played host to some of India’s most renowned heads of state during the Maharaja’s reign, it now offers complete luxury for the traveller. A billiards room houses the oldest billiards table in India; while the Viceregal Tea Lounge retains the old-world charm and understated elegance of times gone by – a perfect place to enjoy a cup of Darjeeling tea. With 70 elegant rooms and suites, as well as three villas, each has a panoramic view of the palace or valley.

The hotel offers a wide range of activities, such as water rafting on the Ganges river with its formidable rapids, nature walks, treks and a safari option in Rajaji National Park, spread across 820 sq km around Ananda, home to 500 elephants and a birdwatchers’ paradise.

But my favourite pastime was experiencing what the amazing Spa had to offer, one of the best in the world. First I had my dosha read and then followed the programme given to me by the Ayurvedic doctor. I enjoyed plenty of Ayurvedic treatments and was well and truly rubbed, scrubbed and pummelled. As a novice, I also enjoyed yoga at dawn every morning. I returned home feeling very Zen and spiritual (pictured above, top left). I can’t recommend this highly enough as a way to de-stress.

“I WAS IMMEDIATELY AMAZED BY ALL THE WONDROUS COLOURS, SIGHTS AND SMELLS”

“NOTHING PREPARES YOU FOR YOUR FIRST SIGHT OF THIS MOUNTAIN RANGE”

W E L L N E S S

I N D I A & T H E H I M A L A Y A S


S E Y C H E L L E S

G R E N A D A

Jackie is enchanted by her first visit to “picture-perfect paradise”

My inaugural trip to this archipelago of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean last November exceeded all my high expectations. The famous turquoise waters surround pristine, dazzling white beaches framed by granite boulders. My top recommendation is to combine a couple of islands during any trip, as the topography differs greatly. The inner granite and smaller islands (where the majority of the population live) clustered around Mahe, Praslin and La Digue are lush, tropical verdant forests with a rich diversity of flora and fauna. Praslin is home to the Vallee de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where an abundance of the curious Coco de Mer grow, one of the botanical wonders of the world; in contrast, the outer islands are a sparkling array of flat, coralline islands extending westwards towards the coast of Africa.

Gemma and Ray go back to this spice island

In June, we revisited Grenada after many years absence and were reminded how much we liked this Caribbean, spice island gem. After a direct Virgin Atlantic flight, our two-week trip begun in 5-star, family-owned Calabash Luxury Boutique & Spa, a resort with a laidback Caribbean vibe; breakfasts are ordered the night before and served in your verandah or balcony, so no queues at busy buffets!

Food features highly, it is home to two of the island’s best restaurants, including Gary Rhodes’ restaurant for special occasions – and of course no trip to this scenic island would be complete without a visit to taste the yummy products at Diamond Chocolate factory. I also recommend an island tour, to see its beautiful waterfalls and taste spices galore. The beautiful flora of the

The Seychelles offers superb sailing, diving and excellent fishing, home to some of the world’s rarest species of birds, giant tortoises and magnificent palm trees. It has many influences – African, Asian and even Caribbean! But the vibe in general is slower...

My first night was spent at 4-star Constance Ephelia Resort, set within 120 acres and with a plethora of activities to choose from – ideal for families. From there, I flew to Denis Island Private Island; fringed by coral reefs, white sands and coconut palms. This is an unspoilt paradise, somewhere to get away from the stresses of life! No TV and little internet, so not for those who want to remain in touch 24/7.

Cottages are dotted around the island; it has a rustic charm and feels very much as if you have been invited to stay as a guest. The staff were always friendly, but not with a feeling that they were told to! The owners live in a very understated house and very much take part in the running of the island. Conservation is very

important; they have the most amazing farm and are nearly completely self-sufficient. It was my favourite island and I would love to go back!

A good alternative for those who want more on offer, The Four Seasons in Mahe has a welcoming atmosphere, set among dense tropical greenery, with villas dotted around the hillside with amazing views. It combines luxury with locally inspired architecture. Many different activities are on offer, with a fun kids club and water sports centre.

Recently refurbished, Constance Lemuria in Praslin is a large resort, but if you are a keen golfer this is ideal for you; the Seychelles’ only golf course must have some of the best views ever! The resort straddles two lovely beaches, with immaculate gardens.

For good weather, you can travel to the Seychelles most of the year (except perhaps Nov-Jan). As it is tropical you have to expect some showers, but they seem to be short-lived and it’s always warm (rarely cooler than 24 or above 33 degrees C). Happily, the islands are malaria-free; Oct-May is best for water sports as the sea is calmer.

With a plethora of five-star hotels available, my advice is book to go now!

island bloom everywhere, such as the striking native plant Helonica (pictured right).

Refurbished last year, Calabash has only 30 rooms (some suites with plunge pools) and 5 estate houses, so its intimate atmosphere is a huge attraction, with a great spa and amazing views from its cliff-edge location overlooking the bay.

We also loved 5-star Spice Island Beach Resort, owned and managed by Sir Royston Hopkin – this is a hotspot for the Royal family, as Princess Anne has visited a number of times and Prince Harry recently stayed during his official tour at the end of last year. Set on the quieter southern end of the famous Grand Anse beach, it is a full-service resort with spa, kids club and water sports. The international-style service is exceptional and we loved the Seagrape suites right on the beach, with direct access to the beautiful white sands.

B E A C H T R I P S


Gemma, Ray and Aurelia basking in the sunshine of the Caribbean


Gemma tours two scenic inland waterways

For my first river cruise, in May I travelled on Tauck’s MS Grace, along the scenic northbound Rhine and Moselle inland waterways, for the first five days of a 13-day itinerary, beginning my journey in Basel, Switzerland.

For my first full day, a knowledgeable and affable local guide took us on a tour of the city by comfortable coach, followed by a walking tour of the Old Town, including the red-painted city hall, the Rathaus. (A full day in lakeside Lucerne was another option.)

The third day was spent in Strasbourg, the crossroads of Europe, where we drove through the beautiful city’s European Union district and admired the modern architecture of the European Parliament buildings. The 11th century Gothic cathedral was fascinating, with its stunning pink facade; Petite-France is one of Strasbourg’s prettiest and most enchanting neighbourhoods. Alsatian folklorists performed before we had dinner back on board.

The following day’s highlight was a trip to Baden-Baden and the Black Forest, a favourite spa destination of royal visitors and celebrities, including Queen Victoria, Brahms and Napoleon III; the Casino is the oldest and most traditional in Europe. Shuttles to

Terry travels along one of Europe’s largest rivers

Joining the Eastbound Danube cruise last August in Passau, Bavaria (having missed the first two days in Prague of the week-long trip), I was allocated an extremely comfortable and spacious cabin, which was blissfully quiet, despite the fact it was at the rear of the ship. The two floor-to-ceiling windows afforded amazing views and the cabin stewardess was efficient and friendly, placing full tour details and next day’s events itinerary in my cabin each day.

There was a good and interesting range of locations to explore along this majestic river. I undertook excursions to Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic); Grein, Grafenegg and Gottweig (Austria); Cerveny Kamen Castle (Slovakia); and the Belvedere Palace and Schoenbrunn Palace in Vienna. Nothing was too much

and from the destinations were available throughout the afternoon, also returning us to the boat for lunch.

My final day was spent in the romantic town of Heidelberg, where we took a walking tour of the Old Town Square and visited the ruins of Heidelberger Schloss, Germany’s finest Gothic-Renaissance castle. In the afternoon, the boat set sail for Rüdesheim in the Rhine Valley wine country for a special reception and dinner ashore at Schloss Johannisberg or Burg Schwarzenstein, estates that have been producing wine for more than 1,000 years.

River cruises are an excellent way to explore the historic, cultural and culinary traditions that have evolved in these areas of central Europe. I was pleasantly surprised how spacious and well appointed the ship was, with excellent food and service; there was a high staff to guest ratio, with a mix of nationalities on board (US, New Zealand, UK and others). Dress code for dining is resort casual, although flip-flops and shorts are discouraged in the evening. Conveniently, all gratuities, including those for bus drivers, local guides, restaurant and hotel staff, are included in the price of the holiday.

On my final day, I was very reluctant to return home and leave my fellow passengers who happily went on to sail down these beautiful rivers for another week…

trouble for the Tauck team; if anyone wished to visit somewhere independently, such as a church, then they would happily arrange it via a taxi ride – I am unaware of any other company that would arrange this as a complimentary excursion.

The tour guides were extremely knowledgeable and the information cards and leaflets packed with useful information on each port of call. Small groups would be taken in opposite directions to avoid overcrowding; and, conveniently, tips were sorted directly by Tauck. Special events, such as a Gala Dinner in an imperial palace with music, or a special luncheon in a heuriger (typical tavern with music) are exclusive to Tauck and prove popular. The coaches were spotless, with plenty of bottled water available if required.

But the ship itself was the real star. MS Savor carries

a maximum of 130 guests in 67 cabins and suites, located on three decks. The entire top level is a Sun Deck, with a putting green and a plunge pool at the rear, with ample chairs and loungers and shading if required.

The palatial landmark Grand Hotel Wein in Vienna where I stayed was centrally located, with easy access to various museums, parks, churches, galleries and shopping, with pavement cafes nearby. Luggage was taken care of from cabin to the hotel room and vice-versa if needed.

My first – and hopefully not my last – river cruise on one of Tauck’s vessels, was an amazing adventure, which offered plenty of opportunity for immersion in different cultures. There was not one element of this trip that I could fault, from start to finish!

R H I N E & M O S E L L E

D A N U B E T O U R

R I V E R C R U I S E S

Costa Rica has long been regarded as the “Switzerland of the Americas”, with its peaceful history, lack of armed forces and scenic pasturelands; but it also boasts magnificent wildlife, a rugged Pacific coastline, as well as Caribbean beaches, 800 species of bird, four types of primate, two species of sloth, numerous snakes and insects. A nature lover’s paradise, where the countrywide emphasis on protection has allowed most species to flourish.

I visited in June and flew directly with BA to San Jose, staying overnight at the peaceful Hotel Grano de Oro, converted from a tropical Victorian mansion. An early start the next day (with breakfast boxes provided) was followed by a drive along the Pan American highway towards the Caribbean coast to Torteguero and the riverside Pachira Lodges (short flights are also an option). The last leg of our journey was by boat, a great way to start spotting wildlife – we saw caiman, geckos and red dart frogs.

On arrival, we were immediately introduced to more of the celebrated Costa Rican wildlife, as monkeys can spring out at you at any moment! Boat trips along the river gave me the opportunity to spot more animals (such as armadillo, howler and spider monkeys, white-faced capuchins, lizards, turtles

A D V E N T U R E T R A V E L L E R

“BEWARE - MONKEYS CAN SPRING OUT AT YOU AT ANY MOMENT!”

Following a drive down the Pacific coast – via a stop at Monteverde to see the wonderful sloths (pictured below) – we arrived in the town of Manuel Antonio, with a chance to relax by the sea. But wildlife is still never far away, with an early morning visit to the national park offering us the chance to see more sloths and especially capuchins, who seemed to know when we were due to eat our lunches on the beach and raided our backpacks!

Arenas del Mar is a boutique hotel within walking distance of the national park and a good choice for those seeking relaxation. Si Como No hotel has its own conservation programme of rescued alligators and is very popular with couples, as they boast amazing honeymoon suites with stunning views of the ocean. My hotel for two nights, The Parador Resort, is built high over the coastline in 12 acres of tropical rainforest with a resident sloth; another good option for families with four pools and a swim up bar for adults, tennis courts, spa and babysitting. Once again you have to be prepared for wildlife to carry on with their busy lives around you…

and a variety of birds) – I suggest either the 6am or 4pm trips for the best chance to see them active. July and August is the best time to go if you want to see the turtles laying their eggs.

An alternative hotel I also recommend was the Evergreen, which has 66 rooms and bungalows, a good pool area and plenty of activities on offer, as well as a canopy tour, kayaks and river guides.

After a short flight with amazing views of Torteguero, the river and national park, we arrived back at San Jose and a nearby coffee plantation, before reaching Poas Volcano. One highlight of our stay at Relais & Chateaux property El Silencio in Bajos del Toro (approximately 1.5 hours from San Jose) was a walk to the waterfall; it is set in a 550-acre cloud forest reserve close to Poas Volcano Park.

Next on our fascinating trip was Arenal, a very active destination for adrenaline junkies, activities range from hiking up Arenal or zip wiring to Zorbing. I chose to visit the hanging bridges of Mistico. Our first attempt was thwarted by an amazing thunder and lightning show; the guide was very informative about both flora and fauna. The Arenal Springs Hotel is great for families, with three restaurants, some interconnecting rooms and pools heated from the hot springs. I particularly liked the Kioro Hotel, with rooms which have hot tubs and full views of the volcano (pictured below).

C O S T A R I C A SUSIE FINDS SOME WONDERFUL WILDLIFE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK



Gemma & Ray enjoy a Middle East experience

Having never been to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan before last year, I was lucky enough to go twice in 2016 – in both September and November (the only difference being that temperatures were much cooler later in the year).

We soon discovered that Jordan is steeped in history; it has been home to some of mankind’s earliest settlements and relics of the world’s great civilisations can still be seen, unspoilt, today. We knew relatively little of Jerash (above right) beforehand; the stunning, preserved ruins of what was once one of the greatest provincial cities in Rome’s empire (and just two hours from the capital Amman.) It is well worth a visit, accompanied by a knowledgeable guide who can bring the once great city to life.

But what most visitors associate with Jordan is the extraordinary city of Petra (above left) and this must be a highlight for any trip (4 hours from Amman). Made famous to a generation of fans by the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, this legendary city, built in solid, pink sandstone rock, is approached through a narrow gorge, known as the Siq, which builds the suspense. The first sight

of the celebrated Treasury building really does leave you speechless…

For those seeking rest and relaxation, Jordan has the ultimate experience – a float and mud treatment at the Dead Sea is unforgettable – don’t forget to take something to read for the proverbial float photo!

Only two hours from Amman, Ray’s highlight was the 4x4 jeep safari in the deserts of Wadi Rum (below), made famous by the heroic exploits of Lawrence of Arabia, when he played a pivotal role in the struggle for power in the Middle East. A camel ride across these isolated rocks and sands is a memorable way to travel too, especially to a Bedouin camp for a traditional meal and music. The silence in the desert is awe-inspiring – and nights are wonderful for star-gazing.

We found the Jordanian people warm and welcoming and, despite its geographic location, we felt very safe everywhere we went. Highly recommended as a genuinely authentic Middle Eastern experience, which you won’t forget in a hurry.

J O R D A N


Gemma & Ray’s long weekend in Lucca Italy is always popular with our clients and thus we are constantly seeking new experiences for you to enjoy. Which is why Ray and I found ourselves in Lucca, Tuscany last October, when the weather is invariably still mild.

We stayed at one of the many delightful, luxury three to 14 bedroom villas available, many of which offer spectacular views, while all of them are gorgeous, traditional homes, which can also be fully staffed and catered if you wish. And happily the famous wine regions of the area are never far away.

The birthplace of great opera composer Puccini, Lucca is sited within its Renaissance city walls and cobbled streets, close to the coast and within a day’s ride of art-filled Florence and at the foothills of the Apuan Alps. Nearby Forte dei Marmi, with its wonderful restaurants and high-end shops, is a must-visit too.

But our top tip is to be sure to find time to drive a fast, luxury car around the lanes of Tuscany – I became very fond of my white Porsche... (see page 13).

Novelist Henry James once described Lucca as “overflowing with everything”; what more could one ask for on a long weekend break? Why not take the plunge and book a luxury weekend away with extended family - or friends - to this stunning landscape of rolling hills and cypress trees? You won’t regret it.

I T A L I A N V I L L A S

A M S T E R D A M

T U S C A N Y

Aly enjoys going back to this enchanting city

Returning to Amsterdam in October, after an absence of 30 years, it was wonderful to see it through the eyes of our teenage daughter, visiting for the first time.

Our hotel was located in the cultural museum quarter, just a stone’s throw from the celebrated (and newly renovated) Rijksmuseum and the modern Van Gogh Museum. With previously booked tickets, we managed to avoid the queues and marvelled at the art in both locations – and enjoyed an excellent meal at the latter.

After a canal trip to get our bearings, walking is certainly one of the best ways to see the sights, if you are not tempted by riding a ubiquitous bicycle. The green lawns of the city’s largest park, Vondelpark were also close by and we enjoyed strolling through it towards a canalside café to watch the houseboats, or listen to one of the many church bells ring.

Jackie takes a walking break with friends

In September I went away with several girl friends to the wilds of Tuscany, north of the ancient walled city of Lucca, for a week’s break. We were looking to do something a little different, so we decided on a walking holiday. A perfect combination of exercise, delicious Tuscan, home-cooked food, wonderful scenery - and more importantly plenty of time to chat!

We stayed in a charming rustic farmhouse, nestling within Tuscany’s mountainous Garfagnana region. Our walks took us from the vineyards and ochre-coloured hill-towns of the lower valleys up to the high ridges and summits of the Alpi Apuane.

We started with a huge breakfast, walked all day (c6-10 hours) over mainly well-established trails

A visit to an old merchant’s house is a must – our top recommendation is the extraordinary 17th century Ons’Lieve Heer Op Solder (“Our Lord in the Attic”), with its secret, hidden Catholic church at the top of the building. But the museum everyone wants to see – judging by the lengthy queues (shortest in the evening)– is Anne Frank’s House. Open every day until 9.30pm, tourists now flock to see the family’s final hiding place: it is well worth the wait.

As a passionate English student, my daughter was fascinated by the Dutch art which inspired two of her favourite novels – The Goldfinch and The Girl With the Pearl Earring. A short train ride from the city to The Hague takes you to the Mauritshuis museum, home to some of the best Dutch paintings, including both the beautiful, aforementioned artworks.

We recommend you try some Dutch delicacies – apart from the local cheese (kaas), there is bitterballen (deep-fried meatballs), stroopwaffel (waffles) and even raw herring (sweetest from May-July).

Finally, if you are feeling flush – or just love everything that sparkles – take a tour around a diamond-polishing factory, such as Coster, who have created jewellery for royals and celebrities worldwide. You might just be tempted…

and in the evening enjoyed a delicious guilt-free dinner and marvellous Italian wine.

The walk was sometimes harder than we expected, mainly because we hadn’t fully read the description! But our wonderful guide Kathy encouraged us and we all felt a great sense of achievement when we reached the summit. Our ‘day off’ midweek was a well earned rest by the pool, but there were options to visit nearby Pisa, medieval Lucca or the artistic treasures of Florence.

We have now caught the bug and are already planning for 2017.

Walking sparks conversation and conviviality. It is not competitive and completely inclusive. We laughed for hours and all of us felt really good about what we had achieved. Highly recommended.

E U R O P E A N B R E A K S



Hanna F enjoys safaris, wine tasting and delicious food

In mid-December I flew direct to Johannesburg with BA and then took a 45-minute flight to Madikwe to begin an amazing trip in this fascinating country.

My first stay was at Madikwe Hills main camp (pictured above middle), situated in the far north of the NW Province, in the middle of 75,000 hectares of park and borders with Botswana. It is home to 66 large mammals species, including the Big Five (happily I spotted 3 during my day’s trip), as well as 300 resident and migrant bird species. Our game drivers were extremely knowledgeable and the friendly staff, good food and well-stocked, complimentary mini bar, ensured we felt very welcome. My private game lodge room, set among boulders and age-old Tamboti trees was spacious, with a plunge pool outside and there were child-friendly safaris available. This location is hard to beat for safaris…

I next flew to Cape Town and after a 1.5 hour transfer, enjoyed a couple of nights in the area, based first at Leeu House, Franschhoek (above right) and Le Quartier Francais. This is a lovely boutique hotel, with a real home feel to it; the 12 rooms are cosy, with fireplaces for chilly evenings. It is located on the town’s main strip, so ideal for admiring the distinct Cape Dutch architecture and access to the choice of bars and restaurants. A tour of the Winelands is a must. I enjoyed a Cape Classic Cuisine Walk in Stellenbosch, the second oldest town in South Africa, followed by a wine tasting at Delaire Graff Estate.

Back in Cape Town, my home for the next two nights was the One & Only Cape Town, in an ideal waterfront location, next to shops and entertainment. This is a large, family-friendly hotel with an excellent kids club and well-stocked rooms – the buffet breakfast had a huge variety of delectable dishes available!

S O U T H A F R I C A

Susie’s adventure in this geological hotspot

On arrival in Reykjavik last October, I was driven to the 4-star Hotel Borg, a charming Art Deco property in the main Parliament Square, one of the best located in the city and in walking distance of the cathedral.

An excellent meal at its sister hotel fortified us for a night-time search for the Northern Lights, an excursion by 4x4 “super jeep”, specially customised Land Rover Defenders (pictured right), designed to tackle the island’s rough terrain and extreme weather. (The best time to see the Lights is in March however, when all the snow has fallen.)

On my second day I visited Iceland’s Golden Circle, which includes many of the republic’s greatest natural phenomena – a perfect introduction to its extraordinary geology and history. Thingvellir National Park is where you can see the tectonic plates of Eurasia and North America gradually pulling apart, it was fascinating to see; it’s also the home of Icelandic history, where the Viking settlers founded its Parliament in 930AD.

The spectacular geysers, hot springs, steam vents and brightly coloured algae of Strokkur are awe-inspiring, but a highlight was taking the jeeps on to the Langjökull glacier, the second largest ice cap in the country. You can also go off on skidoos, or, like me, just enjoy a beer while trying not to slide around!

The following day we experienced a different landscape on the south shore, with lush farmland, sandy coastline and striking waterfalls, set to a backdrop of mountains, volcanoes and glaciers. Returning to Reykjavik later in the day, we passed picturesque, historic villages, with many houses dating from the 18th century, painted in a range of bright colours.

On our final day we experienced the beauty and thermal waters of the celebrated Blue Lagoon, a unique way to experience Iceland – but don’t forget your swimming costume to enjoy a warm bathe.

Iceland can be visited year-round, and I discovered that its capital Reykjavik is just one small part of the country and in the summer, a hire car is recommended to explore further; one road takes you all the way round the island in about 8 days.

I C E L A N D

A tour to Cape Point included lunch at the spectacular Two Oceans restaurant and a chance to see the iconic lighthouse. But my top tips are to book a table for dinner at the Stack and go up Table Mountain, as well as visit Camps Bay for a taste of the “rich and famous lifestyle”.

It was hard to fly home after such an extraordinary visit – but at least there was no jet lag when I returned, as the time difference is minimal.


National treasure Joanna Lumley OBE FRGS is the leading Appeal Patron for Grange Park Opera’s ‘Theatre in the Woods’ in Surrey, the first new opera house to be built in the UK for decades. Happily, it is not far from our shop, so we seized the chance to catch up with Joanna to ask about her travels, love of music …and black trousers.

As an author, actress, TV presenter and former model, has overseas travel always played an important part in your life? Yes, because I was born in a suitcase leaving India at the age of one and living in Hong Kong and Malaysia until I was eight. Long sea voyages punctuated my childhood and left me with a longing to keep moving.

What do you never forget to pack on your travels? Black trousers, a torch and books.

Which passport stamp are you most proud of? Pretty keen on my Mongolian one (pictured above).

Do you have a favourite destination you return to as often as possible? I loved Ethiopia, where I made part of a documentary, with a passion, and plan to return as soon as I can.

Where would you like to go next…? India again: filming but also savouring the fabulous variety of that stupendous country (pictured below).

Who is your dream travel companion? My husband; but I mostly travel now with a tiny film crew. We have become best friends and I love working with them.

Music plays a big part in your life too…why is it so important to you? I was born listening to the greats… Mozart, Beethoven, Dvorak, Chopin... on a wind-up gramophone in the Far East. I would suffocate with no music in my life.

What persuaded you to take on the role of Patron for Grange Park Opera (GPO)’s appeal for its exciting, new Theatre in the Woods? It was the easiest decision I have ever made. I love what GPO does, and how it behaves: all are welcome and their standards are sky-high. The

Theatre in the Woods is stunningly attractive and will be a new wonder of the glorious Surrey countryside (pictured below, right).

What are your ambitions for this extraordinary, new opera house, which is currently being built in 350 acres of beautiful landscape and historic gardens, surrounding 15th century mansion West Horsley Place? It will be utterly magical: the combination of the majesty of that ancient house (pictured below, left) and its grand spreading gardens, and the music and dance that will take place in the Theatre in the Woods will be unbeatable.

GPO initiatives such as £35 tickets for the under-35s seek to encourage the young to sample opera – do you recall your first performance? Grace Bumbry singing Aida in about 1964… awesome.

When the curtain rises on 8th June 2017, sum up in three words what you will be feeling…? Thrilled, proud and happy.

If you could cast your perfect opera, who would perform and what would it be? Maria Callas and Jussi Bjorling in Tosca. Hearing Callas singing Vissi d’arte is a masterclass in both singing and acting; she was truly as good as it gets. She knew exactly how to portray passion, despair, love and hatred, and Puccini’s music is sublime. Jussi Bjorling had a voice I would swim oceans to hear. A giant.

And if you had to describe yourself as a character in an opera, who would it be and why? I would rather like to be the Countess in The Marriage of Figaro: although she has a rather wretched time with a scoundrel of a husband, she has an aria so lovely that whenever I hear the music beginning I start to sob hopelessly.

JOANNA LUMLEY


WANDERING STAR

S H O R T B R E A K S

T E N E R I F E

Z U R I C H

Terry returns to a favourite destination

I have stayed at the Gran Hotel Bahia Del Duque, in the relaxing resort of the Costa Adeje, South Tenerife every six months and have done so for the past three years – and I am already planning my next stay!

Knowing the hotel so well, I am able to request certain rooms and I have now sampled most of the many restaurants too, so I can make very informed recommendations.

Just 20 minutes from the airport, from the moment you enter via its Corinthian columns, the Victorian and Venetian influences are apparent, with several piazzas giving the feel of a village-style property, rather than a large hotel.

A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, with only 350 rooms and suites, as well as a selection of one and two-bedroom villas, you can opt for either garden or sea views.

Terry’s luxury short break is a big surprise The location of the Dolder Grand Hotel – in a forest, in an elevated position with magnificent views of the city, lake and snow-capped mountains – is hard to beat.

Privately owned, during my stay in May I discovered that its recent refurbishment works well; its art collection remains (one of the most valuable in Zurich). Dining is spectacular with a 2-Star Michelin option, The Epicure; while the bar has magical Swarovski candles in suspended ceiling lights.

Rooms are modern and minimalist, with oak flooring and marbled bathrooms, many of

Hanna enjoys precious time with her daughter

In May, my daughter Amelia (aged 3) and I arrived at the prime Ionian Sea destination of Westin Resort Navarino Dunes at Costa Navarino, Greece to be greeted with a glass of Prosecco (soft for Amelia!) and an offer to dine at one of the resort’s fine restaurants, Flame. This set the tone for a luxury stay.

The Westin resort is split into two – the family friendly Westin and the more adult-orientated Romanos. Amelia first enjoyed a short buggy ride to the Aqua Park; this has plenty of water toys and slides to amuse different age groups, and a playground attached to the site, with climbing frames for older children.

The kids’ club had a full programme of activities for Amelia – while I resisted a golf lesson and ventured towards the Anazoe Spa, a serene sanctuary with an exceptional menu of speciality treatments based on ancient beauty practices, using the area’s exclusive natural ingredients. It also offers hydrotherapy and floating pools, indoor and outdoor treatments areas.

Children over 10 are able to do diving and snorkelling at the PADI Centre and also at nearby Proti Island which has good diving visibility from May ownards. Turtle hatchings are normally visible in September-November. An eco-gallery was ideal for the little ones, but a squash court, bowling alley, an American Diner and cinema catered to older children.

A highlight was authentic village cooking at a beautiful, stone house in nearby Pylos, where we cooked traditional Greek noodles and made Galopita (traditional milk pie). An ideal way to discover family recipes, passed down through generations.

This is a great location for families, as well as couples and attracts a high percentage of repeat guests (like me!). The many dining options include Italian, Asian and a new restaurant, SUA, offering dishes from the Basque region of Spain.

Facing towards the small volcanic island of Gomera, only 50 minutes away by ferry, it attracts a warm Gulf Stream climate, which makes the weather perfect throughout the winter months.

With five swimming pools, as well as an adult “quiet area” located in lush, well-established gardens, I cannot fault the hotel for its amazing spa, service, room choice and exceptional dining.

which have hosted celebrities (the hotel itself has appeared in several films pictured below). The award-winning spa covers 4.000sqm and has outdoor whirlpools and a snow room. Yoga, tennis and 9-hole golf are available, while a funicular transports guests to the city.

Far from the haven of just banks and commerce that I had previously imagined, I found the city pleasantly surprising, with its cobbled, spotless winding streets, galleries, churches and clock towers. This is an ideal destination for a short break – especially for the football fan, as the city’s FIFA museum was very interesting, even for a non fan such as me!

G R E E C E


Haslemere Travel is delighted to announce that it will be hosting the first Haslemere Travel Literary Evening on Thursday, May 18th as part of this year’s Haslemere Festival.

The exclusive event will have a Russian theme, with three exciting women speakers set to entertain guests. Anna Pasternak (above) (great-niece of Boris Pasternak, the Nobel prize-winning author of Dr Zhivago) will be talking about her new book “Lara: The Untold Love Story that inspired Dr Zhivago” – the tale of the true, heartbreaking love affair between Boris and Olga Ivinskaya.

Carnival Films are currently developing Lara with Liz Trubridge, producer of Downton Abbey, for a major, six part TV series. Excitingly, Liz Trubridge has also agreed to talk about how she is bringing the book to the screen as part of this stimulating evening.

The chair of the evening will be Val Hudson, former editorial director of Harper Collins and Hodder Headline, who is a published author herself and the rumoured author of A Simples Life, the best-selling ‘autobiography’ of the cravat-wearing Russian meerkat Aleksandr; as well as Arthur: the dog that crossed a jungle to find a home.

The event will begin at 7.30pm (ending c9.30pm) at the Haslemere Educational Museum and will include refreshments during the interval, as well as the opportunity to purchase paperbacks and have them signed by the two authors.

Please note: This is a ticket-only event. For further information, go to www.haslemeretravel.co.uk; to purchase tickets (after March 1st) which cost £15 (wine included) call 01428 642161 or email: [email protected]

Our eco bag enjoys jungle life in Costa Rica

Gemma zooms around Italy in style

Jackie gets to grips with Seychelles’ Coco de Mer

Terry cruises down the scenic river Danube

Ray is dressed for the desert at amazing Petra

Email your photos with your Haslemere Travel Eco Bag to [email protected] and we will print them in the next newsletter and feature them on our website!

A luxury prize trip donated by Haslemere Travel (in partnership with JG Collection/ICMI Collection) for a fund-raising raffle, raised thousands for the new education centre building project at Surrey Wildlife Trust’s Nower Wood.

Winners Margaret Gilbert and Tony Stanford, will spend nights at The Roxburghe Hotel in the Scottish Borders, including fly fishing tuition on the River Tweed; and at Greywalls, next to the celebrated Muirfield golf course near Edinburgh, dining in its Chez Roux restaurant.

“Haslemere Travel was delighted to support Nower Wood. We look forward to ensuring the prizewinners have a wonderful trip,” said Gemma.

Haslemere Travel is thrilled to announce that this year we will be seeking to reward our loyal clients with a wonderful Caribbean holiday prize for the first time!

The lucky winners (to be drawn in January 2018) will be treated to a very special prize - 7 nights full board for 2 people, ultra all-inclusive at East Winds, St Lucia - a gorgeous, boutique hotel on arguably the island’s finest, secluded tropical beach, with a whole range of activities on offer.

Every client who books a holiday with us in 2017 will be entered into the prize draw – the more holidays you book, the more entries you will receive. For more details, email: [email protected] or see our website for terms and conditions. Good luck!

LITERARY EVENING NEXT MAY

WILDLIFE BOOST CARIBBEAN PRIZE


W H A T ’ S N E W . . . BAGS OF FUN!

January

October

COSTA RICAThis month the fiercest bulls from all over the country descend on the capital for Fiestas Zapote, a massive rodeo, with fair rides and delicious food on offer. See Susie’s report, page 7.

SEYCHELLESA must for foodies, Mahe, Praslin and La Digue celebrate everything Creole in the last week of the month, with crafts, dance, music and delicious dishes. See Jackie’s report, page 5.

GERMANYOktoberfest is an event not to be missed if you like a glass of beer, great music and an opportunity to join in the merrymaking in Munich. Lederhosen is not compulsory…

JORDANThe Jordan Rally has been thrilling spectators since the 1980s, as some of the world’s best drivers wind their way through desert, hills and by the Dead Sea. See Gemma’s report, page 8.

SWITZERLANDWinter sports enthusiasts will head to the World Alpine Ski Championships at Piz Nair, St Moritz, for a chance to see the finest skiers in a magical setting. See Terry’s report, page 12.

BERMUDAFrom this breathtaking island, the world’s best sailors on the fastest boats will battle for The America’s Cup, with Sir Ben Ainslie’s team seeking to bring the iconic trophy back home to the UK.

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September

May

november December

August

April

ICELANDThe first weekend of the month finds Iceland celebrating “The People’s Feast”, with bonfires, vodka and a music festival on Heimaey, the only inhabited Westmann Island. See Susie’s report, page 10.

INDIAThe Hornbill Festival, Nagaland, NE India is celebrated by several tribes, with colourful performances, traditional crafts, ceremonies and games. Why not stay in style at luxury tented Kohima Camp with butler service? See Gemma’s report, page 4.

CAYMAN ISLANDSPerfect for families, two replica 17th century galleons join the Pirates Festival, which takes place on all 3 islands, for 10 days of music, dancing, fun and plenty of swashbuckling.

TENERIFESince the 15th century, when Carnival hits Tenerife (Feb 19th - March 5th), it is time for an extravaganza of colour, light, music and merry mayhem. See Terry’s report, page 12. GREECE

Easter is by far the biggest event of the year here, celebrated across the islands with candlelit processions, spit-roasted lamb and firework displays. See Hanna’s report, page 12.

March

Our exclusive round-up of exciting cultural and sporting events and festivals around the globe. Call us on 01428 658 777 for more information about visiting these memorable events.

HUNGARYIn Budapest, the Red Bull Air Race comes to town, an annual acrobatic flying competition which takes place high over the Danube. See Gemma’s report, page 6.

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Haslemere Travel Ltd2/4 Petworth Road, Haslemere, Surrey GU27 2HR

Tel: 01428 658777 Fax: 01428 651415 Email: [email protected]

www.haslemeretravel.co.uk

JACKIE

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INSIDE: INDIA COSTA RICA SEYCHELLES RIVER CRUISES …...The Russian theme for this special occasion...

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Transcript of INSIDE: INDIA COSTA RICA SEYCHELLES RIVER CRUISES …...The Russian theme for this special occasion...