TokyoHakubaOsakaKoyasanKobe

BeppuYakushimaNahaIrimoteJimaFukuoka

in.Japan atravelogue

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Credits Content Editorial Photography Design Concept byJoSamuel

How to read this travelogue-----------------------There are clickable links to additional photography embedded at the beginning or end of each location, article or feature.

Simply click on the black camera icon displayed in each section and type the password when prompted to gainaccess.

Appreciation-----------------------All the gracious people who helped me navigate my way around Japan.Copyright 2015 Jo Samuel @Umarketing - All Rights Reserved

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ContentsThe Journey- Japan by Jo Samuel 1-2

Tokyo 3Tsukiji Fish Market 4-5Photographic Memories - A Sea of Umbrellas in Shinjuku Day 3 6

Hakuba 7Hakuba-A Winter Wonderland 8Photographic Memories A Moment of Bliss 9Day 4

Feature1FirstCabin 10-11

Koyasan 12A Monk in Koyasan - An Interview with Nobihuro Tamura 13-16 Photographic Memories - Leaving Koyasan 17Day 9

Feature2FoodGloriousFood 18-20

Kobe 21Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum 22-23Photographic Memories - The Haven 24Day 15

Feature3TheArtofSumoWrestling 25-26

Beppu 27The Hells 28Jigoku Mushi Kannawa 29-30Photographic Memories - Fierce Elegance Day 18 31

Yakushima 32Shiritani Unsuikyo 33Photographic Memories Yakushima - Day 23 34

Okinawa-Naha 35Street Life-Kokusai Dori 36Photographic Memories - HapiNaha Day 29 37

IrimoteJima 38In the Jungle - The Urachi River 39 Photographic Memories -Where on Earth Day ? 40

Fukuoka 41Fukuoka - City Slick (Quick Bites) 42Nokonoshima Island Park 43-44Photographic Memories - Modernity Day 51 45

THEEND

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For the people who work in the market and the bidders that visit everyday to purchase tuna for their restaurants and shops - this is their life, whats the big deal, its just fish?.....But for us visitors the fish market, for some reason exemplifies something more. Perhaps its the size of the fish or just the opportunity to eavesdrop on everyday life in a Tokyo market. (Pgs 4-5)

Moving on, I stop at the beautiful snowy white peaks of Hakuba where I learn that deep powder is a descriptive term for a type of snow. (What is the opposite of an abbreviation?). Hakuba has a small town feel. Pristine white snow and mountain views laced with evergreen trees make for an unforgettable landscape. It feels like a winter wonderland and draws avid skiers and snow boarders to the area from around the world. (Pg 8)

Moving from location to location is easy and a quick stop in Osaka for the night staying in a capsule type hotel (Pgs 10-11) before moving on to Koyasan, the spiritual epicentre of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism in Japan and Im beginning to feel and understand the differences in subcultures from prefecture to prefecture.

The gorgeous mountainous region of Koyasan is a world in itself. A feeling of peace and serenity is encapsulated in the feel of the town and the friendly community reflected in the deep spiritual roots of the area and enough temples and shrines to keep a pilgrim or curious tourist happy makes this place an interesting and lovely town to visit. I set aside some time to speak

I Arrived.....After 1 year of consideration and 6 months of planning for a 2 month experience, stopping at 9 locations, staying in 11 hotels and organising 11 flights I meet Tokyo at night exhausted.

Its a whirlwind.

Moving from the North into the southern regions and the Ryukyus, the journey begins with a quick stop in Tokyo. The capital and epicentre of Japan is a bustling, vibrant city without the edge that usually accompanies city life and is everything I would expect and more.. lights, crowds and a train system that resembles spaghetti junction. Its an exciting city with everything that city life has to offer - shops, museums,restaurants catering for all tastes and a vibrant night life.

It feels safe here. As I travel from area to area and talk to fellow travellers, I hear stories and anecdotes about the quirks and nuances associated with Japan and Japanese culture. Recalling a conversation about salary men (the term used to describe male office workers in Japan) who, having missed the last train home, lay down in subways to sleep, I was surprised to hear one traveller recounting his observation of these men placing wallet and phone on the pavement in front of them with no qualms about leaving their personal belongings in full view whilst they napped.

I was eager to observe the workings of Tokyos famous Tsukiji fish market, renowned for its large tuna and early morningauction viewing slots for tourists. A ridiculously early rise saw me queuing with other eager travellers waiting to view the auction.

As I sat in the waiting room and observed the rather bemused looking staff who usher guests in out of the market every day, I wondered what this process must look like for the Japanese people who work in this environment. I guess it would be akin to tourists in London, rising at the crack of dawn to observe a meat auction in action.1

to one of the monks who reside in the temple lodgings (Shukubo) I stayed in about his journey into Buddhism and the history of the local area. (Pgs 13-16)

I left Koyasan taking a sense of peace with me. I didnt visit the area as a pilgrim - though I suppose one could argue that we are all pilgrims through lifes journey in one way or another. I arrived possessing only a vague understanding of the principles behind Buddhist philosophy and came seeking nothing in particular. Its been my experience that the more one seeks, the less one finds and at times the less one expects, the more value in the journey. All I can say is that I came away refreshed.

Travelling from country back to city life, I board a train.Staring out the window and watching the forests vibrant greens gradually transform to grey concrete blocks as the journey progressed was not an easy transition, however city life called again and Kobe - an interesting harbour city- did have some hidden gems in the form of nature trails and waterfalls tucked away in a small secluded haven behind skyscrapers and city life.

Kobes a great base to explore neighbouring cities like Osaka and Kyoto, both within an hours travel by train, though I only managed to visit Osaka this time round for the annual Sumo Wrestling Tournament which was an interesting experience. (Pg 25-26)

I visit a Sake museum and brewery in Kobe, taking a quick tour around the museum before making a hasty beeline towards the taster stand! Kobe is one of many cities in Japan renowned for its production of Japans national alcoholic beverage. Sake production has an interesting history and is very much embedded in the traditions, culture and even religious aspects of the country. (Pgs 22-23)

At this point in my journey, Im ready to soak in an onsen. The Onsen is an important cultural activity in Japan and bathing almost feels ritualistic. From a Western perspective, observing onsen rules and etiquette makes the experience for first time dippers an interesting one.

As I drift into the mysterious sulphuric fog hovering over the onsen town of Beppu, I begin to understand more and more about what makes this culture so special. Beppu is one of those places

in Japan that has to be seen to be believed. Volcanic steam rises from the top of metal pipes, covering the sky and drifting up towards the mountains before disappearing into the clouds. It really is a sight that quintessentially defines this interesting town.

Sitting on a coast, Beppu is surrounded by sea and mountains. A day spent meandering around the circumference of a lake or a ride up a cable car to the top of a mount really does give one the impression that Beppu is natures way of blessing us.

Onsen after onsen beckons, tempting visitors from other prefectures in Japan and all around the world to soak in sulphuric waters renowned for numerous health benefits. The choices are plentiful From a trip to a local onsen where visitors pay 100 Yen for a locker, to a plush hotel onsen with similar amenities as a day spa.

Its been my experience that the more one seeks, the less one finds and at times, the less one expects - the more value in the journey.

Forest trail in Koyasan

There is something that cant quite be defined about the onsen experience. Bathing with strangers may seem like an odd way to enjoy a bath, but the onsen represents something more to me.

There is a feeling of bygone days here as different generations bathe together. Children accompanied by their parents and elderly people too frail and weak to stand straight being supported and lowered by younger relatives into baths really embodies something important about the spirit of Japan. A sense of community and family is evident at these baths. At the same time a feeling of openness exists which also enables strangers to feel welcome and comfortable.

As I continued my travels around Japan I learnt that for some, the onsen is part of a daily routine. (One gentleman I met in his late 60s had visited a particular onsen every day from the age of three). For others a special visit on the odd occasion is enough.

Funnily enough, Beppu awakens me to something and I start to understand a little bit more about Japan. It feels like this culture is geared towards comfort and ease. Strolling around the grounds of various hotels, visiting restaurants or even walking around the town wearing Yukata and slippers is like going from home to home everywhere I travel. It really is akin to sitting in a restaurant or walking around town wearing dressing gown and slippers and observing everyone else doing the same.

A visit to The Hells was an interesting journey into one of the areas steamy attractions and one of those tourist type day trips that are an absolute must for anyone visiting this town. (Pg 28)

The local dishes were also a real treat. From Italian/Japanese fusions to Do it Yourself Jigoku Mushi steam dishes and bungo (mountain) food. (Pgs 18-20) The variations of visually appealing, delicious and healthy dishes was enough to please any palette.

As I continue my journey moving further south, the weather noticeably changes and Im greeted with beautiful sub-tropicalfoliage and forest in Yakushima. Its a small island renowned for its conservation and research of sea turtles and Shiratani Unsuikyo, a stunning conservation area located 800 metres above sea level. The forest is covered with moss and is said to have been the inspiration behind the location featured in the film Princess Mononoke. Its evident why.

I almost expected fairies or elves to pop up between the moss covered rocks as I walked the trail. (Pg 33)

I spent days driving down winding roads and through hair raising narrow lanes with dense forestry surrounding me on both sides enjoying the scenery. Yaku monkeys and deerambled their way along the roads and I stop the car as I

travel around the island to observe and digitally capture these

creatures in their natural habitat.

Travelling even further South to Naha, Im greeted with the most interesting fusion of cultures. For some reason Naha excites me. The atmosphere is so different from the northern regions that it almost feels like Im on a Caribbean island.

The weather here is divine in early April and wandering Kokusai- Dori (International Street) at night, soaking in the sights and smells and observing the oddities and curiosities in Okinawas Capital City was different to anything I had previously encountered during my travels. The markets selling different varieties of fish in all colours, shapes and sizes were fascinating and there is a real buzz in this part of town. (Pg 36)

Moving on, I enter jungle territory. Irimote Jima is a small island located in the Ryukyus. Its a beautiful area and the most stunning sunsets can be viewed here. I relax, enjoying the tropical environment and leaving the world behind.

Lizards, butterflies and all manner of insect species reside in this area too numerous to mention. Irimote Jima is famous for its Mangrove trees, Amazon type river (The Urachi River) and the rare Irimote cat. There are apparently only 100 left on the island and are nocturnal creatures rarely seen so I didnt look for any.

Boarding the Urachi river boat sailing a little way down the river, I observe wild boars grazing on the verge and Mangrove trees with their strange spindly roots floating above the water, before docking and venturing into the jungle from this point. (Pg 39)

A stop in Ishagaki before heading to Fukuoka gives me some time to stop and take stock. I catch up on my journal and organise a photographic library before heading back to the big city again- adapting to the frenetic pace contained within all major cities.

Fukuoka is interesting. Its modern and slick. This city gives the impression that it has made attempts to be cutting edge and this sense of innovation is reflected in the architecture. Its glass, curves and strategic lighting galore! At the same time Fukuoka

houses a number of temples and shrines, in fact it is number 3 in Japan for the sheer amount of temples and shrines in one area. This city highlights the integration of tradition and modernity that can be felt and observed in all areas in this country and the

connections with the past that, are not only evident in the customs and traditions of the culture, but are also physically integrated into the modern landscape. Fukuoka is also a great base to explore a wider area in the Kyushu prefecture and I make the most of my rail pass jumping on different trains that take me further afield.

Nokonoshima Island, located 45 minutes from the centre of town has a beautiful flower garden and I wiled away a day here taking photographs of the seasonal blooms and enjoying the scenery.

(Pgs 43-44)

I also take the opportunity to visit Mount Aso - one of the biggest volcanoes in the world. Unfortunately, I wasnt able to get as close as I would have liked due to dangerous volcanic activity. The volcano was still visible from a distance and I could only imagine what this would have looked like from a closer perspective, however the rolling hills and landscape in the small area located near the eruption were a treat.

A day trip to Yufuin was an enjoyable experience. Quaint cake and coffee shops

line the streets of this small town in the Oita area. Yufuin is another Onsen town (not far from Beppu) and I enjoyed taking another relaxing dip in an outdoor onsen before visiting Lake Kinrin. (Yet another lovely lake)

As I begin to wind down from my journey and approach my last few days in Japan, Im overwhelmed with melancholy and feeling wistful. I pull myself back to the present (realising I have a couple more days left to enjoy) and contemplate what I have observed over the last couple of months.

The Japan I have experienced has given me respite. A gracious and civil culture, politeness and consideration seems to permeate every area I have visited. There is a calmness here that I cant quite put my finger on. Even amidst the hustle and bustle in the major cities, I get the impression that personal space is

respected. The tradition of bowing, or nodding heads to greet someone, or move past them is still acknowledged and this adherence to etiquette, grace and manners really does define a whole society. The quirks and nuances associated with Japanese culture are perhaps indicative of a group of people who aim to please and keep everyone happy. I didnt witness any arguments or loud brash behaviour among Japanese people. Even the youth I observed here are not especially boisterous.

Every area I visited had something special, a uniqueness that defined it. Subcultures, landscapes, dialects - small microcosms - living, existing and functioning in different ways within the wider macrocosm. I also noticed a real sense of family, community and care. It was rare to see a Japanese person dining alone and activities and hobbies appear to be group orientated.

Japan takes a systematic approach to daily life and processes. There is a sense of automation here - everything has an order (and a ticket machine!) I found this strangely comforting. At the same time those automated processes were found in places where, perhaps they would be least expected, (I suppose in comparison to where I currently reside) and a feeling of staticity exists in places where you would expect technological advances to exist. - for example, supermarkets still have cashiers and no self service check outs.

Its a different approach to what I have experienced in my home country, but it hasnt sacrificed the human interaction so important when offering a service. Once I got to grips with those processes, everything really was plain sailing.

I get the sense that the Japanese are a rule orientated society and this is perhaps what keeps that sense of order and flow in place, even though at times some of those rules appeared to be counter-intuitive. I caught myself asking on many occasions - why on earth is X done in this way)? I guess the saying: if it aint broke dont fix it may apply here because everything works just fine.

Japan is predominantly a Buddhist country. I learnt that the practice of this philosophy is fused with the Shinto religion which pre-dates Buddhism. Shinto beliefs revolve around the conceptof power and spirituality manifesting through nature. Japan worships many Gods, saints and deities and the ritualistic feature of this particular religion can be felt in everyday life. There is a correlation between rituals and processes, rules and systems - an invisible thread that, none the less can be felt and a strong sense of discipline appears to be an integral part of society here, perhaps derived from traditional roots that have held fast and been carried into the present.

I came to Japan with a few objectives - To gain an insight and understanding into the culture, to experience something different, to indulge in my love of Japanese food and to see if this may be a country I could reside in.

I will be back.

Yaku Monkeys

Saigakukan Outdoor Onsen (Yufuin)

Flying Fish and Sashimi

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Nokonoshima Island Park

Tochoji Temple - Fukuoka

Password Jo

The Journey. JAPAN Jo Samuel

Hakuba PhotosTokyo Tsukiji Fish MarketPhotographic Memories - A Sea of Umbrellas in Shinjuku Day 3

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Password Tokyo

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TsukijiFishMarket

A 4.30am start sees bleary eyed early morning visitors arrive at Tokyos famous Tsukiji fish market equipped with an assortment of cameras and eager to capture a moment in the daily working processes of a tuna auction.

There is a strict rule in place which is never broken. Only 120 visitors are allowed access to the morning market per day. Visitor 121 is turned away.

This gives the market an air of exclusivity. Visitors who gain access now belong to a special club whose members are capable of rising at the crack of dawn to witness the markets proceedings! Ensuring a sought after viewing spot means arriving by 4.30am (at the latest).

Guests are ushered into a small waiting room, given colour vests indicating the time slot allocated and a small leaflet explaining the rules.

Chatter and nervous laughter fills the air and a sense ofexcitement and anticipation can be felt among the groups and individuals waiting for their moment to observe the ins and outs of this market.

Its an auction. Row upon row of large tuna are labelled and laid out for would be purchasers to poke, prod at and observe. The auctioneer takes centre stage as bidders compete for the best tuna.

25 minutes later and its all over. There is a sense of achievement at having arrived and witnessed proceedings and visitors are lead away, ushered out through moving vehicles, boxes and the general chaos of market life, all the while trying to avoid being run over by motorised carts whilst fish market police berate guests -still trying to capture one last moment- for taking photographs outside of the safe zone.

Located in a small hub, visitors have the opportunity to totallyimmerse themselves further by visiting a sushi bar next to the auction for an early breakfast.

4 Password Fish

Its a rainy day, but it hasnt stopped people from coming out on a late Sunday afternoon to shop, dine and socialise.

An early night for me tonight. Hakuba tomorrow.

Day 3A sea of Umbrellas in Shinjuku

TOKYO

Hakuba Hakuba - A Winter WonderlandPhotographic Memories - A moment of blissDay 4

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Password Hakuba

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Hakuba-A Winter Wonderland

Hakuba,thelandofdeeppowderandstunningviewsisapopularlocationforskiersandsnow-boarderstohittheslopes.

Theareaisfamousforhostingthe1998downhillracesintheWinterOlympics,placingHakubafirmlyonthemapasanideallocationtoenjoywintersportsforpeopleintheknow.

WintersportsisnottheonlyactivitythatbringspeopletoHakuba.Hikingisalsopopularandasthechangeinseasonsturnsnowymountainsintogreentrailswithmagnificentviews,peoplefloodtotheareatotakepartinsomeofthechallengingtrailsinthearea.Canoeing,rafting,biking,parascendingandgolfarealsoavailable.

Hakubahasanumberoflovelyonsenandrelaxinginahotspringisacomplimentaryendtoadayofhardworkontheslopes.

As I am escorted to my room, I feign nonchalance. The elegance and beauty of the room overwhelms me.

I try to behave in a way that I think that people for whom this type of accommodation is standard would act........ Once my host leaves, I run around like a child, pressing buttons, staring out the window and gazing longingly at the Jacuzzi before jumping in (after ordering a small sake and chocolate cake of course!)

Day4amomentofbliss

HAKUBA

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The IdeaThe concept of the capsule hotel arose to accommodate the needs of salary men who

needed a place to lay their head after a night out and no means of transportation home. Originally for men, the idea has grown in Japan over the years and First

Cabin (although not strictly what you would associate with the original capsule hotel) has a different spin.

The rooms are slightly larger (standing room) although the layout is similar to what is defined as the original capsule hotel (row upon row of single accommodation in one room).

First Cabins USP is -as the name suggests- is the concept of accommodation based on a first class flight experience and the cabins

are designed to reflect this class of travel.

Does it work?Absolutely, for around 40 per night, guests arriving at the hotel are shown a floor plan of the accommodation Pretty simple really. Male and female accommodation is separate and there is a segregated communal bath area with a sauna.A lounge and chill out room are also available and guests even have the option to book a massage should they require a little pampering upon arrival or before setting off on their journey.

Downsides There are no windows, but of course that is part of the whole experience.

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Cabin

First Cabin Hotel

Koyasan A Monk in Koyasan - An Interview with Nobuhiro TamuraPhotographic Memories - Leaving Koyasan Day 10Koya San Photos

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Password Koyasan

2A Monk in Koyasan

Name: Nobuhiro TamuraAge: 31Occupation:Manager of Ekoin and Monk

What made you decide to become a monk?I originally came to the temple as a translator. I was friends with the priests son and this lead to an offer of a part time job during my vacation time from university. I wasnt really interested in Buddhism at all, but during that time I learnt a lot and became very interested.

How do you become a monk, what is the process?In my case, I knew somebody in the temple. Its important to have connections, whether that is a family connection or (as in my case) friendship.

So its not a case of sending a resume, or an email?[Laughs] No, that is not the way it works. When I made the decision to become a monk, I was asked to be a cleaner for the temple, thats how we all start off. The idea is, that if you cannot clean a room, then you dont have the right character to be a good person.

A clean room is like having a clear mind. We believe that our external environment, (what we can see with the eye) is connected to our internal environment (what is inside of us), so this is very important. The priest watches us work and then we are invited to take part in a ceremony in order to become a monk if he is happy with the way we demonstrate discipline through cleanliness.

All of the monks here come from a family who were also monks, so there is generational influence in their presence here. Im a little different as none of my family were monks.

How many Monks are there at Ekoin?At the moment there are 10.

Describe your daily routineWe are all up at 6.00am to take part in a ceremony for Buddha. This is specifically about being thankful for sentient beings. After this point, we start the fire ritual and have breakfast.

We then check out our guests and clean the whole lodge by hand.Sometimes we have Japanese guests who want to take part in a special ceremony dedicated to their ancestors, so we chant at around midday. After this point we check in our new guests.

I first meet Nobuhiro Tamura at the entrance of the temple. As I disembark the bus, there is a light drizzle in Koya San. I notice some fellow travellers heading for the same lodgings and we tentatively drift onto the grounds, standing at the entrance of the Shukubo (temple lodgings) ready to check in.

Nobuhiro greets us with a smile. He gives a quick explanation regarding footwear. (Only slippers or socks allowed inside the temple and lodgings) before escorting us to a separate building.

I am lead to a room at the back. Its traditional Japanese styleaccommodation complete with tatami mats, low table with a blanket and a beautiful view of a rock garden that can be seen through large glass sliding doors.

Nobuhiro and I make light conversation as he informs me of the dining arrangements and books me in for the afternoon meditation session. I am immediately taken by his friendly down to earth manner as he tells me that he has recently given up smoking.

Before arriving in Japan, I had conducted some research about Koyasan and the monks residing there. I was aware that they lead a life of discipline without giving up all pleasures. This means that even though they are allowed to drink, have fun (in moderation) and even get married, they also adhere to ascetic principles at certain times. Yet I am still pleasantly surprised at Nobuhiros approach and honesty. My curiosity is piqued and at this point I decide to request an interview.

I find out during my stay that Nobuhiro studied Marketing and Business in Japan before he decided to become a monk and I can see a subtle integration of this influence throughout the temple.

For example, I am handed a business card during our first meeting. There are Ekoin T-shirts for sale outside the administrative office of the Shukubo which are surprisingly tastefully designed. (I am informed that a tattoo artist friend was responsible for the artwork). Nobuhiro also offers night tours of Okunoin, a renowned cemetery in Koyasan that holds the remains of Japans most revered and attracts visitors from other parts of the Japan and the world.

Nobuhiro manages Ekoin, one of the 52 temples which provide lodgings for guests travelling to the area for different reasons. Some are believers, some are seekers and others come to escape modern day life.

I conduct the interview in the Shukubos computer room. Nobuhiro is a busy man and he excuses himself at various points during the interview as he deals with guests arriving at his office to ask questions. He is gracious and humble when explaining the concepts of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism practiced in the area.13

What is the purpose of the Fire Ritual?The purpose of the fire ritual is to expiate ones sins with a flame of Buddhas wisdom. We throw many offerings into the flame to ask Buddha for salvation.

The ritual has a cleansing effect on a psychological and spiritual level removing negative energies. The ritual is also performed for making requests and giving blessings.

Tell me a little bit about the history of Ekoin and KoyasanThis temple has an 1100 year history and Koyasan has a 1200 year history. The town was originally only for practising monks before the Shukubo (temples which offer accommodation for guests) officially started in the 14th century. At this point, noble people and emperors began to come here in order to gain power. For example, if rain was needed in the locality, the monks trained the aristocracy to manifest different conditions by asking the gods.

After a time, believers in the discipline were invited. There are 117 temples in Koyasan and 52 Shukubos. There used to be over 7000 temples in this area a long time ago, but due to fires, this number has gradually decreased over the centuries.

What is special about Koyasan?We have a unique culture here which is reflected in the town. Koyasan has a small population of around 3300 people, of which 1000 are monks and this area is the main centre in Japan for Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. I think the form of Buddhism practised here definitely has an impact on the culture of the area.

Ekoins Daily Morning Fire Ceremony

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studies at that time reflect an interest in something alternative.Right

Do you meet with other monks from different temples?Yes all the time. We practice the same sutras, even though different temples may have different policies. We have special ceremonies and pray together on a regular basis.

Are there other schools practising this form of Buddhism internationallyYes, we have schools in Los Angeles, Seattle, Hawaii, Taiwan, Canada, Thailand and Europe. We are a community and we communicate with these schools.

We also travel between prefectures in Japan and let people know about the form of Buddhism we practice here,

Are women allowed to become monks?Yes. We have previously had women at Ekoin who have become monks (actually referred to as nuns) and they have the same responsibilities and training as us.

Koyasan is special to me because I enjoy nature and reallyappreciate the seasons. I eat well which means I have a healthy life and have the opportunity to meet different people from around the world when they come to stay at our temple.

Koyasan is about to celebrate its 1200 anniversary this year. This sounds like a big deal, tell me a little about what you will be doing to mark the occasion?We will acknowledge this important milestone from 2 April until 21 May. This is going to be a very busy time for us and we are expecting a lot of visitors here in Koyasan. There will be lots of ceremonies in the Dajan Garan Complex, Kongobuji and Okunoin and all the monks here are preparing to come together for this.

Im a little worried about the amount of traffic that will come into the area during this time, but Im sure that everything will go well.

What is Shingon Buddhism?Shingon Buddhism was started by Kobo Daishi and is a form of Esoteric Buddhism. The practice of Buddhism in Japan is a mix of Shinto and Buddhism. Shinto has older origins, different gods for different purposes and is connected with the concept of nature being a spiritual force. Buddhism has a number of different practices and traditions and is centred on the teachings of Buddha.

The 2 practices have fused to create the Buddhism that is predominantly practiced in Japan today. You could say that Shingon Buddhism embraces the middle way. (This is about taking the path of moderation), for us, everything is connected and has a different job to do.

Shingon Buddhism originally started in East Asia and comes from the Vajrayana lineage. The teachings spread from India to China and Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai) travelled to China to learn this form of Buddhism. Shingon is a translation of the

Chinese word Zhenyan which means True Words which also translates as mantra in Sanskrit. We also believe that there is good and bad and that there are 2 sides to everyone and everything- for example, evil people can become good people and nothing has a definite shape. We try to do good things and help

people. Importantly, the practice of Shingon Buddhism is centred on the belief that we can achieve enlightenment right now whilst we are living. One of Kobo Daishis important teachings says that everything is neither born nor unborn.

We do not hold the view that we have to go without, or that we should live a life cut off from the rest of society. Its acceptable for us to have desires- for example, we are allowed to get married, have fun and drink in moderation. (Though some monks choose not to do this), however we do have special times when we practice asceticism and this is an important part of our training, We also believe in reincarnation.

So you believe that we come back again after our current life.Not exactly. For us reincarnation is about passing down good or bad things, for example if our mother or fathers do good things this is passed onto their children, equally if they do bad things this can also be passed on.

Isnt that similar to the concept of Karma?Western people like to talk about reincarnation and karma. I know they are famous words, but these words are from Exoteric Buddhism. We focus on the life we have now rather than life after death. We might say evil passions rather than karma. We dont think its important to discuss life after death because we focus on how we live right now. I would say - after I am dead, I just lose my body so I become something invisible you call it soul, we call it Buddha.

Ive read that people believe that Kobo Daishi is still alive. Do they mean in the literal sense or that his teachings live on in Koyasan?Good Question. People believe both. His teachings are obviously still alive in our community.

One of Kobo Daishis teachings state that

everything is neither born nor unborn.

What do you believe?[Smiles] When I pray I can hear him speak to me.

What do you think about the concept of one Supreme Being One God? Buddhism is very different,. We believe in lots of Gods and each god represents something different. For us this means that there is potentially less debate over what one god does. Everything has a different job to do and we embrace this.

What were you doing before you decided to become a monk?I was a record promoter-specifically house, techno, pop and underground hip hop -selling records and organising gigs. I was the only one who could speak English, so I was tasked with bookings. I also studied at Manchester University.

What did you study at University?I looked at how music affects hormones, specifically testosterone levels. This was about 12 years ago, so I have a vague memory of my studies. I also studied marketing and business in Japan.

Thats really interesting, because at the time you were studying at Manchester, you had no intention of becoming a monk, even though your

Koyasan-1200 Anniversary

Women are also expected to shave their heads but we do give them the option to cut a small amount of hair if they wish. Actually, one of our female cooks is currently thinking about becoming a nun. There are also schools here in Koyasan especially for nuns.

Where is the nun who used to reside at Ekoin. Oh, she married one of the monks here!

How has becoming a monk changed you?Im a better person. I have more discipline and eat well.

Finally, a lot of people undertake pilgrimages to Koyasan and visit your temple, perhaps seeking some form of enlightenment. What advice would you give people who are seeking something different, or who want to incorporate Buddhism into their daily lives?I think a lot of people are so busy that they do not have time to stop and think. Life can be hectic, especially city life. We practice and teach meditation here and its important that people take time out of their day (even if it is just a few minutes) to clear their mind. That would be my advice.

Nobuhiro has compiled a small booklet containing some of Kobo Daishis teachings. It is available for

sale at Ekoin.

Esoteric Buddhism is a portal that transcends all space in an instant

With it, you can surely attain Buddha-hood whilst you are alive

Kobo Daishi15

About KoyasanKoyasan is the epicentre of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. Located 800m above sea level, the area was founded by Kobo Daishi in 816 after a search for the perfect place to practice and teach Shingon Buddhism.

Koyasan has undergone many changes over the centuries, however Kobo Daishis teachings continue to live on and remain at the heart of the small community residing there.

A painting of Kobo Daishi 16

PasswordEkoin

I didnt want to leave Koyasan.

Purposefully missing 2 buses, I wait at the bus stop looking around for the last time.

As I say goodbye to Koyasan, I feel strangely elated and lifted... I carry this feeling with me as I move on to the next part of my journey.

Day 10LeavingKoyasan

KOYASAN

Glorious FoodHow can anyone visit Japan and not savour the delicious food on offer? Sashimi, flying fish, tempura jigoku mushi, mountain food, sushi, miso soup, shabu shabu, Italian/Japanese fusions, ramen noodles, shojin ryori, bento boxes...and much more.

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Kobe Hakutsuru Sake MuseumPhotographic Memories - The Haven Day 15

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2HakutsuruSakeBreweryMuseum

Source

Hakutsuru Sake Brewery opened in 1743. It was used as a storage house at some point during its long history until 1969 when the brewery started production again.

The brewery adopts traditional and modern techniques in the process of making sake and has preserved the traditions and cultural heritage of sake production over the centuries. The adjoining museum showcases some of the historical tools and processes involved in the production of sake - from past to present day.

Sake (Japans national beverage) is alcohol made from fermented rice. Sake production goes as far back as 710AD and was originally brewed under a government monopoly until the 10th century.

After this point, temples and shrines took up production until it gained popularity among wealthy landowners who grew the rice on their land to make the beverage.

In 1904, the government held the first sake tasting competition as the popularity of the drink rose.

The techniques for making the beverage has changed over the years and the 20th century brought advanced new technology to the process of making the drink, however more breweries are turning to older and more traditional techniques in order to preserve sakes cultural heritage. (See diagram opposite)

Sake can be consumed hot or cold ( It is usually served hot in the winter season). The better quality sake is reserved for drinking cold as heat is said to affect the flavour of the drink and was used to mask the taste of lesser quality sake. It is drunk from small clay cups called Choko.

The beverage is still an important part of the Shinto purification rituals in Japan today and is offered to the Gods for rich harvests.

The production of sake has spread internationally and there are a number of breweries all around the world.

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Sake

Ifindasmallcafeonanaturetrailtuckedbehindthe city and stop for coffee and biscuits. Gazing out at the waterfall in front of me, I begin to contemplate the next part of my journey.

Its calm.

KOBE

Day15TheHaven

2The Art of Sumo The atmosphere is charged in the large auditorium. As people sit in anticipation for the next bout, the ritual begins. Salt is sprinkled onto the Dohya (the ring) purifying the area. Men, women, the young and the old all look on. The seating arrangements range from up close and personal ringside seats which appear to be a fairly hazardous choice as wrestlers come precariously close to the crowd when they are thrown from the Dohya. Further back in the auditorium, small sectioned off areas are filled with people seated on cushions enjoyingpicnic style lunches with bento boxes and watching from a safer distance.

The crowd roar intermittently as the match proceeds. Its over in seconds and the anticipation of the next match builds as the cleansing ritual begins again.

Sumo wrestling is classed as a Japanese Martial Art and has been an important part of Japanese culture for centuries. The art has retained its ritualistic features (which include the salt purification) derived from Shinto origins.

The rules are as follows;

The winner of each match is the first wrestler to force his opponent out of the ring, or the 1st wrestler to force his opponent to touch the ground with any part of his body other than the bottom of his feet.

These guys are extremely agile even with the amount of weight they carry and although, on first impression it may look like 2 heavy weights wearing thongs and grappling frantically with each other, on closer inspection its clear that a huge amount of discipline and training is required.

Sumo Wrestlers live in stables and lead a fairly regimented lifestyle whilst they are training. They have strict rules which they must abide by and their diet is carefully monitored.

Sumo wrestlings popularity has dipped in recent years due to some controversies surrounding the sport, however - it would appear that Sumo is on the rise again as recent championships have generated some excitement.

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Beppu The HellsJigoku Mushi KannawaPhotographic Memories - Fierce Elegance Day 18

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The HellsPassword

Hells

Jigoku Meguri aka -The Hells

The Jigoku Meguri is one of Beppus well known attractions and worth a visit.

These hot springs are not for bathing (some of them are over 100c), they are however interesting to look at and on a sunny day an easy stroll around the course makes for a pleasant afternoon or morning.

Each spring has its own distinct character and properties and signs are posted at each Hell offering descriptions and historical explanations about the properties of each pond.

The oldest pond known as Chinoike Jigoku dates back 1300 years. The water contains iron oxide and magnesium oxide contributing to the red colour of the pond.

From bubbling mud baths like the centre image above, to spouting geysers and even an alligator and crocodile farm, the hells are an interesting day trip exploring some of the areas well known steam filled attractions.

30Jigoku-Mushi Kannawa

1.Choose dish from menu

2. Match corresponding item at machine, pay for

steam and chosen dish. Collect ticket.

3. Hand ticket in at

counter and collect

chosen frozen dish 4. Enter the stove area,

put on rubber gloves and carefully lower food into steam ovens. (At which point diners are handed a timer).

5. Carry small timer to the foot baths

6. Soak feet in foot onsen whilst waiting for steam dish

7. Collect finished dish

and enjoy meal al fresco

with other diners.

(Ensuring to wash dishes

after the meal).

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7Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa is an interesting and delightful dining experience in Beppu. Jigoku Mushi translates as hell steamed and these healthy dishes not only taste great, the process of cooking the food is also fun.

The steam used to cook the food is derived from hot spring heat which addstothehealthbenefitsofthedish.

The steaming process is pretty simple (see opposite page) and the end result worth the wait. A free foot bath next to the Jigoku Mushi is available for diners to use whilst waiting for dishes to steam.

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Day18FierceElegance

Beppu is a never-ending stream of delights. Lake Shidakako is one of the most beautiful lakes I have seen and the swans here have real character.

Elegant,gracefulandalittlefierce,Ienjoytheirboldness as they come close enough for me to touch.

BEPPU

Yakushima Shiritani Unsuikyo ForestPhotographic Memories-Natures Dramatic Scene Day 23Koya San Photos

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Shiratani Unsuikyo, is one of the areas most popular locations and offers stunning trails through beautiful forestry.

TheforestisfamousforbeingtheinspirationbehindthesettinginthefilmPrincessMononoko.Lushgreenmosscoveredrocksandtreesonthis trail certainly make for an enchanting hike and the scenic drive up to the forest is an experience in its own right.

There are a number of different trails (from 1 hour to 5 hour courses) to choose from-including the Primeval Forest and Princess Mononoko hike and each trail has its own distinct theme and character.

Thecoursestartsonamagicalnote.FollowingthetrailovertheTheSatsuki-TsurihashiSuspensionBridgewhichhoversoveraboulderfilledrunning river leading into forest, there are plenty of opportunities to stop and pause along the way and avid nature photographers will especially appreciate capturing the beauty of the area. All the trails are well sign posted, easy to follow and maps are available at the ticket officeinfrontofthetrails.Thereisasmall300Yenchargetoaccesstheforestwhichgoestowardstheupkeepofthearea.

Yakushima takes conservation of its natural heritage seriously and was designated a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Island between 1980 and 1993. There are a number of conservation centres, museums, nature parks and learning centres dotted around the island which give an insight into the ongoing efforts to preserve the beauty of the environment.

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As waves crash against ink coloured rocks and small pools of waterfillandemptystonecrevicesintunewiththeebbandflowofthetide.......

The sky remains still

YAKUSHIMA

Day 23Natures Dramatic Scene

Okinawa (Naha) Street Life - Kokusai DoriPhotographic Memories-Hapinaha Day 29

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Theincrediblehulk,tweetybird,jawsandaliensallliveinNaha....JustoneofmanyimaginativeplasticfigurescenesinshopfrontsloominglargeandreflectingtheNahavibe.

Rainbowcolouredfish,glass,ceramics,crystals,fruitandveg,Ukuleleplayers,snakesinjars,miniaturepineapples,livelobsters, sake shops and Starbucks - All jostling for the shoppers attention and all located together in a fusion of colours, noise and oddities on Kokusai Dori (International Street) Nahas main strip. Located off a side street, Heiwa Dori is a large bustling market where shoppers bargain and barter for goods. Certainly worth a visit just to observe the differentvarietiesoffishonsale incompetitionwith live lobstersandstrangeunidentifiableseacreatures.Itsacolourfuldisplayandafunway to spend an afternoon.

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StreetLife Kokusai-Dori (International Street)

PasswordStreet

Theres a vibe in Naha

As I walk along Kokusai Dori, Im bombarded with an assortment of colours, noise and smells. Its a fusion and absorbingJapansSouthernflavourexcitesme

Yes HAPINAHA!!!!!

Day29HapiNaha

NAHA

Okinawa (Irimote Jima) In the jungle - The Urachi RiverPhotographic Memories - Where on Earth Day ?

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Irimote

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.....in the jungle-The Urachi River

PasswordUrachi

The Urachi River is Japans most southern tropical and largest river in Okinawa. It has often been comparedtotheAmazonduetoitslongandnarrowflowsurroundedbydensejungle.

Variouswildlifecoexistintheriverandsurroundingjungleincludingavarietyofinsects,fish,therareand nocturnal Irimote Cat and Mangrove trees.

Mangrovetreeshavespecialrootswhichactasafilterinordertodrawfreshwater from sea water, hence their odd and recognisable shape. The roots are visibleatsurfacelevelandarealsousedbysmallfishforhidingfrompredators.

The river boat follows a course 8Km into the Urachi and docks at a pier which leads to 2 waterfalls - The Mariudu and the Kanpire. The waterfalls can be reached in 15 and 30 minutes respectively by trekking through dense jungle.

This is a beautiful part of Japan and nature lovers will enjoy exploring the island, observing the varied wildlife that live here, or relaxing on one of the many beaches.

MangroveTree

After watching the fading sunset change the colour of the sky from deep reds to violets.After walking down country lanes with the heat of the sun warming my neck and the chirping of crickets surrounding me;and after wading in turquoise shallow water with electricbluefishswimmingamongstthecoral.................

I forget where I am

Day?WhereonEarth?

IRIMOTEJIMA

Fukuoka Fukuoka - City Slick Nokonoshima IslandPhotographic Memories - Modernity Day 51

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2Fukuoka City Slick

FukuokaQuickBites

Population-1,457,176

BiggestCityinKyushu

FukuokaandHakatamergedin1889andthemainareatookonthenameFukuoka,howeveritisstillreferredtoas Hakatainsomeareas.ThetrainstationiscalledHakataStationandtheairport-Fukuoka

IncloserproximitytoSeoul andShanghaithanTokyo

RenownedforRamenNoodlesJRHakataCityopenedin2011.ThenewstationbuildinghousesoneofJapansbiggestrestaurantzonesandhasanumberofspecialityshops

Fukuokaisnumber3inJapanforthe numberofBuddhisttemplesand shrinesinthecountryandhasthe oldesttempleinJapan

FukuokaAsianArtMuseum isworldrenownedforitsvast collectionofAsianArtandisthe worldsonlyartmuseumthatfocusses specificallyonmodernand contemporaryAsianart

FukuokaCitySlick

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2Located 45 minutes from Hakata city centre, Nokonoshima -a small island in Hakata Bay- is a lovely area and makes a fantastic day trip. A ferry and idyllic bus ride transports visitors to the islands flower gardens where the seasons blooms can be viewed and appreciated.

The trail around the gardens is a journey through an array of patterns, shapes and colours in landscaped fields. The park also has restaurants, a small village with craft shops and a tea shop. Further into thepark, visitors can rest on a hilltop with a view of passing ships along the bay in front of a impressive city skyline.

Late April blooms are wonderful and observing the seasonal transitions (dependent on the time of year) as flowers fade and others come into full bloom is an enjoyable experience.

A small barbecue area is available for use -the perfect spot for friends and family to relax whilst enjoying a meal in lovely surroundings.

Seasonal BloomsSpringDaffodilsPoppiesNanohanaCherry BlossomsLivingstone DaisiesAzaleaRed Poppies

SummerHydrangeaCoral TreeDahliasCrape Myrtle

AutumnCoral TreeDahliasCosmosLate Flowering Cosmos

WinterFall FoliageSasanquaJapanese NarcissusCamelia

Information source - Nokonoshima Island Map

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Day 18

Beppu is a never-ending stream of delights. Lake Shidakako is one of the most beautiful lakes I have seen and the swans here have real character - Elegant, graceful and a little fierce, I enjoy their boldness as they come close enough for me to touch.

HAKATACITY

Hakata City is a gleaming, pristine, ultra white modern microcosm.

Decorative glass pillars polished to perfection mirror the movements of people travelling to and fro giving the impression of continual activity. It feels like nothing ever stands still.

Day 51Modernity

Day 18

Day 51

The End.... ......and the beginning