Initial Style Research

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    Before I start looking into the social aspects I will briefly describe theindustrial revolution which was the transition to new manufacturing processes in the

    period from about 1760 to some time between 1820 and 1840. This transition includedgoing from hand production methods to machines, new chemical manufacturing and iron

    production processes, improved efficiency of water power, the increasing use of steam

    power and the development of machine tools. It also included the change from wood andother bio-fuels to coal. It began in England and within a few decades had spread toWestern Europe and the United States.

    Social effectsThe history of the change of living conditions during the industrial revolution has beenvery controversial, and was the topic that from the 1950s to the 1980s caused mostheated debate among economic and social historians. A series of 1950s essays by HenryPhelps Brown and Sheila V. Hopkins later set the academic consensus that the bulk ofthe population, that was at the bottom of the social ladder, suffered severe reductions in

    their living standards.

    1800-1900

    StyleThis period of time in Britan was the Victoria Erawhich ran from 1837 to 1901. It was a long period of

    peace, prosperity, refined sensibilities and nationalself-confidence for Britain. Some scholars date the

    beginning of the period in terms of sensibilities andpolitical concerns to the passage of the Reform Act1832. The era was preceded by the Georgian periodand followed by the Edwardian period. The latterhalf of the Victorian age roughly coincided with thefirst portion of the Belle poque era of continentalEurope and the Gilded Age of the United States.The Fashion in this era for women was long hair thatwas woven into intricate styles, accessories thatinclude hats and gloves. It was required for womento completely cover up so long sleeves and high

    collars were popular. In the evenings a women mayexpose her arms or neck. The hour glass figure wasvery desirable at this point so tight corsets and bigskirts were the main fashion.

    However as a group we have decided to steer awayfrom the industrial revolution in Europe andAmerica. We want to take more of a look at theindustrial revolution in Asia, Africa and SouthAmerica as we feel this will give an interesting

    cultural background and lead our art directionaway from the typical western style.

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    Asia

    Asia is a massive place with a variety ofdifferent cultures, so this is just a very

    brief look at just the style and textures ofsome of those cultures. All their fabrics

    and patterns are rich in colour and design.In the nineteenth century, Japan producedprodigiously for its new Western market. Economic initiativspurred the creation of consumer items exclusively for the export market. At the samtime, Japan began a massive consumption of Western goods, chiefly in tsectors of heavy industry and engineering. For the European customer, th

    pattern of late-spring flowers, insects, and lotuses evoked exotic origins,mitigated by accommodations to We

    ee

    hee

    stern style.

    The width and complexity of bands in women's garments,

    in China including robes and coats as well as sleevelessjackets like this one, increased during the late nineteenthand early twentieth century. The butterfly textiles used tomake this garment are in silk and metallic thread tapestry,known as kesi in Chinese. Although the tapestry techniqueis very flexible and allows great pictorial freedom, the

    butterfly motifs are symmetrically placed, a feature that isvery common in Chinese garments.

    Africa

    Members of the Islamic Mahdi communities of the Sudan wore strikingtunics during the late nineteenth century. Tailored from handspun cotton,garments were assembled in strips approximately 14 inches in width. Theentire tunic is accented with fine embroidery outlining the neck and sleeves,and embellishing the breast pocket and side patches. Such tunics were worn

    by officers of the Islamic Mahdist army during the 188198struggle against the British presence in the Sudan region. Thehigh visibility of the tunics served a practical purpose in thatleaders could easily be distinguished on the battlefield. In the

    four years before the Mahdi died of typhus in 1885, he led hispeople to reclaim nearly all the territory formerly occupied bythe Egyptians. By 1898, under his successor, the Sudan had

    been liberated from foreign rule.

    South America

    One of the most persistent aspects of Andean culture is women's use oflarge silver pins to ornament and fasten their garments. Some, worn in

    pairs (and called tupus), are intended to be inserted vertically to attachtheir robes at each shoulder. Others (called tipquis) are worn singly andinserted horizontally to hold together the corners of their mantles.