Industrial attachment of niagara textile ltd

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INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTNiagara Textile Ltd

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing thisreport. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would liketo pay special thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, the Head of thedepartment of Textile Engineering, “Southeast University”, for continuouslyguiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He hasenriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement ofthe report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to mysupervising teacher Mr. Adnan Zaber Mahmud for his encouragement &valuable suggestions for incessant improvement of the report.

I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Md. AbraruzzamanDiamond, General Manager, “ Niagara Textile Ltd”, who has allowed me towork in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the industrialtraining period.

I recognize Md. Feroj Iftekhar, Deputy Manager (Admin) for managing myinternship and for providing sincere help in all administrative and technicalmatters while working in the organization. My heartfelt thanks go to him forallowing me to perform my industrial attachment in the NIAGARA TextilesLimited.

I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager,Knitting, Dyeing & Fishing, Garment, Accessories and merchandising forhelping to get proper information about every section during industrialtraining. I would like to especially thank to my all of seniors of my universitywhom are working in the “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” for helping mepractically & for showing me the right path.

My sincere appreciation goes to the entire “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” teamfor extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period.

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Executive Summary

Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has conceded throughdifferent huddles & obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can competewith all its competitors in price and quality as well as assortment in thisscenario. Niagara Textile LTD. is a young & dynamic composite Knit GarmentIndustry. Though incorporated in the year 2000 as a private limited company itcame into existence in late March 2001. The mill being established at ChandracircleUnion-Atabaha, Kaliakair Gazipur, Bangladesh aspires to create a nichewithin a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of knitgarments. Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, NiagaraTextile LTD is a 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry. Itpossesses all the latest machineries from the European countries with few fromthe United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The entire plant has beeninstalled & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same roof.The total plant is located in total 16 floor with an area of more than 2,65,500square feet. The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery andexperienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here toensure the Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. Wecan produce international standard fabric and garments of any quality andquantity. Niagara Textile LTD always keeps pace with latest technology ofTextiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in such a mannerwhich shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. marketfulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer.

Introduction

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If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would bedrinking of the water. It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox byshowing and lighting practically rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen afirebox. So, for any technical education the practical experience is the most important as wellas the theoretical knowledge.

As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practicalknowledge. Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoreticalknowledge with the practical knowledge is the “Industrial Attachment period” that comesonly once in the education life. So we can easily realize the importance of IndustrialAttachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial trainingreflects in the report of industrial attachment note book.

So industrial attachment is the process where the trainee can blend his theoreticalknowledge with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skillness,performance and attitude and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge aboutproduction management, productivity evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrialmanagement, production planning and control, production cost analysis, inventorymanagement, utility, maintenance and so on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to beaccustomed with the industrial atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to takeself-responsibility.

As Industrial training is an integral part of the study for the students of Textile Technology,so after the final exam of 4th year 2nd semester, I have taken this training at “NIAGARATextiles Limited”, a 100% export oriented apparel manufacturing industry. I tried my best toprepare this note book applying my best efforts. I tried to gather all the necessary informationto make it a valuable for me as well as for everyone. I think it will help me a lot in future inmy practical life.

Place:

I have performed our industrial training at “NIAGARA Textiles Limited” which is located atChandra circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair, Gazipur, Bangladesh. This is a 100% exportoriented knit garments factory. It consists of knitting, knit dyeing, finishing & knit garments.

Duration:

Total duration of training period was from 15th October 2012 to 15th December 2012 (eightweeks).

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Table of Contents

Acknowledgement………………………………………………………01Executive Summary…………………………………………………….02Introduction……………………………………………………………..03Table of Content ………………………………………………………..04

ChapterNo

Topic Name PageNumber

01 GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY 05-19

02 KNITTING 20-29

03 BATCH SECTION 30-32

04 DYEING SECTION 33-46

05 LAB DIP DEPARTMENT 47-51

06 FINISHING SECTION 52-63

07 QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION 64-67

08 GARMENT’S SECTION 68-100

09 MARCHENDISING 101-108

10 QUALITY CONTROL LABORATORY 109-111

11 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL 112-113

12 MARKETING ACTIVITIES 114-116

13 MAINTENANCE SECTION 117-120

14 UTILITY SECTION 121-124

15 COMPLIANCE 125-127

16 CONCLUSION 128-130

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CHAPTER 1GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE

FACTORY

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1.0 General Information about the Factory

Textiles and Clothing are the leading industries of Bangladesh in Respect of foreign CurrencyEarning and Employment. We are a Knit Composite Unit Having Knitting, Dyeing, andFinishing & Sewing Units under the same roof. It is housed in its own building surroundingan area of 2,65,500 Sft. feet included Office, CAD & Sample 1 floor, Knitting 2 floor, Dyeing 1floor, Dyeing Finishing 1 floor, Cutting 1 floor, Printing 1 floor, Sewing 8 floor, Finishing 1floor & total 16 floor, in our highly protected area surrounded by wall and 4996 workers andstuff. Niagara never allows slave, child or prison labor or even force labor. It always providesall necessary safety measures & ensures the workplace safe, healthy & comfortable. Niagarais going ahead to achieve their vision plan with our dynamic team members. EffluentTreatment Plant (ETP) established for hazard free environment. The determination to achievesuperior customer service and on time delivery has earn Niagara’s recognition as aninvaluable player and the desire to succeed in customer satisfaction with every order makesthe Niagara’s team even stronger its these fundamental that keep this unit in the game andwining every time. Since the beginning it has a very good reputation as a financially soundand ethical business house. It has a long term association with selected factories, some ofthem are certified in terms of social and quality compliance by world’s highest rating bodies,and outstanding sourcing capabilities. Thus Niagara’s has been able to prove itself to be areliable supplier for knit item in any style and design. Niagara is also ISO & WRAP certified.

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1.1 Factory Profile In Brief

Corporate and Financial Information

Corporate Name : Niagara Textiles Limited

Incorporation : C-41635(994)/2000

Type of ownership : Private Limited Company

Nature of the Project : 100% export Oriented Company

Number of Owners : 04

Motto : Niagara is committed for excellence

Workforce : 5000 (Approx.)

Membership : BGMEA –

BKMEA – Membership no : 594-A/2001

IBWF –

Year of the establishment : 2000

Year of the Operation Started : 2001

Our Bankers : Shahjalal Islami Bank Ltd.

Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd.

Bank Alfalah Ltd.

Dutch Bangla Bank Ltd.

General Terms : All payments have to be made withconfirmed Irrevocable letter of credit at sight.

Our Wings : Knitting

Dyeing

Printing

Garments

- Cutting

- Sewing

- Finishing

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Contact Address :

Our Board of DirectorsChairman : Mr. Ahsan HabibManaging Director : Mr. Md. Nurul HasanDirector : Md. Shahinoor Islam

Contact Person Concern department Contact Information

Md. Abraruzzaman DiamondGenaral Manager

Plant Email:[email protected]

G M Taj MahmudDeputy General Manager

Marketing E-mail: [email protected]

Md. Mabubur RahmanManager – Merchandising

Merchandising E-mail:[email protected]

Md. Faruque HossainManager – Compliance

Compliance E-mail: [email protected]

Md. Feroj IftekharDeputy Manager, Admin

Administration Email: [email protected]

Head Office : 27, Bijoy Nagar

Suit No. C – 1 (1st floor)

Dhaka - 1000

Bangladesh

Phone # 088-02- 9352328, 9340945, 9347303

Fax # 088-02-9353480

Web Address: www.niagaratex.com

E-mail: [email protected]

Factory : Niagara Textiles Ltd

Chandra circle

Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair,

Gazipur, Bangladesh

Tel: 88 02 9289127, 06822 – 51233-4

Fax: 06822 – 51231

Web Address: www.niagaratex.com

E-mail: [email protected]

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1.2 Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s & Kid’s wear invaries kinds of knit fabric.

1.3 Office Staff:

A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers &Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 575 people areworking as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.

1.4 Quality Policy:

Niagara Textiles Ltd. Is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet theneeds and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, economy and on-time delivery ofshipments. To achieve this objective, Niagara Textiles Ltd. provides all the necessaryresources to ensure a well equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower totake proper care of customer requirements. Niagara Textiles Ltd. Emphasized that quality isthe shared responsibility of its entire staff. The company ensures that all personnel arefamiliar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legaland other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements ofBuyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve itsproduction and Quality Assurance Department. To manufacture quality products andCustomer satisfaction is the company’s goal.

1.4.1 Quality Vision:

We have set a vision for our quality management by the named Vision 2020 (Quality). Bythis time period we are committed to be best one arena of Quality in Textile Manufacturing.

1.4.2 Quality Team:We have developed and maintained a skilled and experienced Quality Team to implement ourquality policy and to ensure the quality of our products.

1.4.3 Quality Control Circles:We have developed 18 Quality Control Circles at our factory who are working dedicatedly(self) for the workplace problem solving which problems could be hampered the quality ofour products.

1.4.4 Training and Development:We conduct different types of Training, Seminar and Workshop on Quality Improvement forpersonnel of quality department regularly.

1.4.5 Quality Checking and Maintenance:

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• Total goods are checked before shipment for quality assurance.• Yarns are lab-tested for pilling resistance, color fastness etc.• All kinds of raw materials are preserved in warehouses in a professional

manner.• Production only starts after their approval & also prior approval on quality.• All production floors keep clean and maintain all necessary safety measures

according to compliance.

1.5 Our Current Strength:

We offer best quality products and services in a cost effective and efficient manner forour valued clients /buyers.

As part of automation, implemented in-house developed ERP database software forMIS (Management Information System).

We have an in-house printing facility.

We have own carrying facility by own covered van for timely shipment.

We have in-house CAD/CAM systems. We provide special and separate inspection room for our respected buyers.

We have skilled and dedicated manpower (e.g. Operator and Helper) for our differentrespected buyers.

We have modern production machineries /equipments with updated technologies forour quality based production.

We belief in quality. To maintain the quality of our product we nursing a skilled anddedicated Quality Team who are well informed about quality bench of respectedbuyers.

We have a Training and Development wing under the Compliance Department forWorkers and Employees Skills Development. We are very much careful to bring themaximum output from our staffs and workers through proper training andperformance counseling.

1.6 Welfare Facilities:

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Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale,

Job satisfaction & attendance.

Law, Rules and Regulations are followed by Bangladesh Labor Act’ 2006 and the Codeof Conduct of our respected buyers.

We provide all necessary Personal Protective Equipments and monitor its proper uses forour workers. We provide PPE to our workers according the department and the nature of theiractivities

We provide tested pure drinking water to our workers and staffs.

The Factory has separate Prayer facilities for male and female workers and staff.

We provide transportation to our workers who come from a long distance.

We have set CC Camera at our factory to maintain the safety and security at the workplace.

We have a training wing under compliance department to counsel, train and develop ourworkers and staffs through different types of training and counseling programs.

We are always very much concerned about the safety issues of our workers. We manageall necessary functions of safety issues very carefully.

Subsidized lunch for staff.

Free snacks for workers.

Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.

Provision day care center for workers children & annual picnic.

Cultural function.

Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.

Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.

A large dining hall is in our factory including pure drinking water & well sitting

Arrangement.

We provide maternity leave and benefit according to the Bangladesh Lbour Act’ 2006.

1.7 Our Philosophy:

We all work towards a common goal of total client satisfaction by providingprompt reliable and effective services to them.

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We will give our best to our client to make them have a pleasant experience withus.

Our company is committed to offer best service by following a strict protocol ofour equipment.

We will use best components and give high quality product, which we would dofor ourselves.

We will constantly update our knowledge base and shall continuously engage inusing new techniques and procedures and thus deliver the best service possible toour clients in the shortest possible time at most cost effective rates.

1.8 Our Core Values:

New Philosophy – Adopting new philosophy of continuous improvement and TQM

Integrity – Doing what is right

Accountability – Taking personal responsibility

Goal Oriented – Working to achieve our goal

Advancement – Committing to the advancement of quality in all aspects at all time

Respect – Treating people with dignity

Attitude – Demonstrating positive and professional attitude in all our dealings

1.9 Compliance:

Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local laws, Human rights, Socialcompliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government.

1.10 Recruitment Policy:

No child labor in our factory.

No gender discrimination in our recruitment procedure.

There is no force labor.

1.11 Fire Safety Issues

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We have a detailed and realistic fire safety policy and plan to protect and manage fireaccident at our factory. To protect and to manage fire accident we maintain and monitorfollowing issues:

Fire Safety Equipments Details:

Trained up Fire Fighter Team:

We have a fully trained fire Fighter team of 508 members

Fire Safety Committee:

We have a fire safety committee 43 members

Rescue Team:

We maintain a well trained up rescue team of 452 members

First Aid Team:

We have developed and trained up a team of 176 first aid man.

1.12 Present Buyer’s/ Clients & Export Countries:

H&M

Fire Extinguisher : 209

ABC : 161

Co2 : 48

Emergency Exit Lights : 85

Fire Alarm Switch : 45

Hammer : 43

Sound Box : 24

First Aid Box : 43

Hose Reel : 43

Smoke Detector : 75

Gas Musk : 25

Visual Alarm : 08

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Tchibo

Target stores

US Polo

Lazy Jacks

Big Star

Charles Vogele

Dunnes stores

Woolworth

New Look

Unitessile

MASCOT

LOBLAWS

POINT ZERO

SEARS

Our Exported Countries

European Union

Japan

Canada

Middle East

United States of America

1.13 Our Achievement:

- We have awarded as one of the best compliant factory for fulfilling major complianceissues which was jointly organized by Labor Ministry of Bangladesh Govt. andBKMEA on 1st May, Labor Fair-2008.

- We have also awarded by Naari Uddug Kendra (NUK) for fulfilling core standards onsocial compliance issues.

- WRAPB, BSCI & Oekotex 100 certified.

- Fully Compliant with environmental ETP & other social welfare issues

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1.14 Our Production Capacity

Section Capacity

Textile division : 20,000 kg fabric / day

Knitting : 12,000 kg / day

Dyeing & Finishing : 20,000 kg / day

Cutting : 65,000 pcs./ day

Printing division : 50,000 pcs/ day (Onecolor basic rubber printitems)

Sewing : 60,000 pcs/ day (basedon basic items)

Finishing : 60,000 pcs. /day

Production lead time : 45-90 Days

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1.15 Area Details of our Factory:

Niagara Textiles Limited is a Garments factory with area of total 2,65,500 Sft. The detail areadescription of our factory is following –

Garments Division: Area (Smt) Area (Sft)

Sewing 5574 sqm 67,000 Sft

Cutting 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft

Finishing 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft

Sample 186 sqm 2,000 Sft

Office 465 sqm 5,000 Sft

Store 604 sqm 6,500 Sft

Total 10454 sqm 1,20,500 Sft

Area (Smt) Area (Sft)Bonded Warehouse 3716 sqm 40,000 Sft

Free Space 2787 sqm 30,000 Sft

Gross Total 22067 sqm 2,45,500 Sft

New Addition in DyeingFinishing

20,000 Sft

Grand Total 2,65,500 Sft

Textiles Division Area (Smt) Area (Sft)

Knitting 1394 Sqm 15,000 Sft

Dyeing 3716 Sqm 40,000 Sft

Total 5110 sqm 55,000 Sft

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1.15.1 Area Details According to the Floor Distribution:

Section No. of Floor

Office, CAD & Sample 01

Knitting 02

Dyeing 01

Dyeing Finishing 01

Cutting 01

Printing 01

Sewing Floor 08

Finishing 01

Total Floor 16

1.15.2 Different facilities and its quantity at factory infrastructure for our staffs and workersare following

Facility Quantity

Dining 02

Prayer Place for Male 01

Prayer Place for Female 01

Staff Toilet 17

Male Toilet 98

Female Toilet 58

Total Toilet 156

Medical Center 01

Childcare Center 01 (07 Childs)

Canteen 01

Photocopy Center 01

Training & Seminar Hall 01

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1.16 ORGANOGRAMME (FACTORY)

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CHAPTER 2

KNITTING

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2.0 MACHINE PROFILE FOR KNITTING SECTION

Serial Machine Brand Origin M/C diameter Gauge Feeder QTY

1 Single jersey Pailung Taiwan 20" 24 80 1 SET

2 " Pailung " 21" 24 88 1 SET

3 " Pailung " 22" 24 72 1 SET

4 " Pailung " 23" 24 78 1 SET

5 " Pailung " 24" 24 78 1SET

6 " Pailung " 25" 24 90 1 SET

7 " Pailung " 34" 24 64 5 SET

8 " Pailung " 36" 24 69 1 SET

9 " Orizio Italy 30" 24 75 2 SET

10 Rib (8- Lock) Terrot Germany 30" 18 102 1 SET

11 " Terrot " 36" 18 108 1 SET

12 " Pailung Taiwan 34" 18 114 1 SET

12 " Pailung " 36" 18 120 1 SET

13 " Pailung " 38" 18 96 1 SET

14 " Pailung " 40" 18 102 1 SET

15 " Pailung " 42" 18 108 1 SET

16 Interlock(8-Lock) Terrot Germany 30” 22 120 1 SET

17 " Terrot Germany 34” 22 1 SET

18 " Terrot Germany 36” 22 2 SET

19 3–Thread Fleece Orizio Italy 30” 20 2 SET

20 Flat Knit(Computerized)

Stoll Italy 84” 14 1 SET

21 " Kaohang Taiwan 54” 14 25 SET

Total No of machines 53 SET

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2.1 Knitting:

I started from knitting section as a part of my industrial training. To be a good TextileEngineer it is necessary to know about different types of knitted fabric used in dyeing sectionand also need to know different fabric faults, raw material of fabric, fabric composition,fabric production process, quality assurance system and last of all maintenance system of themachinery.

Source of Yarn for knitting:

India (major) Local

Zarina knit compositeSqure yarnShohagpur textileMalek SpinningHanif SpinningBextex LtdKaya spinningJumuna spinningBadshah textileSaiham Cotton Mills

2.2 Process flow chart of knitting-

Yarn in cone form↓

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel↓

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positivefeeding arrangement and tensioning

↓Knitting

↓Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

↓Inspection

↓Numbering

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2.3 Types of Fabric Knitted In the Industry:

2.4 Cost of yarn:

Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn

40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7 $/Kg

36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg

32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

28/1 2.65 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg

26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg

24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg

20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15- 2.2 $/Kg

Types of yarn Count

100%Cotton 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 40s

Spandex yarn 20D,30D, 40D

PC (65% polyester & 35% cotton) 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s

CVC(40% polyester & 60% cotton,20%polyester & 80% cotton)

24s, 26s, 28s, 30s

Grey Mélange(1%,5%,7.5%,10%,15%viscose)

24s, 26s, 30s

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2.5 Knitting charge:

SlNo.

Type of Knitted Fabric M/c gg Y.Count Off Season(April-

September)

Pick Season(October-

March)Rate/kg

(Tk.)Rate/kg

(Tk.)01 Single Jersey 24 18-30 s/1 8.00 9.0002 Single Jersey 24 32-40s/1 9.00 10.0003 Single Jersey 28 28-40s/1 9.00 11.0004 Single Jersey 20 16-20s/1 10.00 12.0005 Slub Single Jersey 24 18-30s/1 10.00 11.0006 Slub Single Jersey 24 32-40s/1 11.00 12.0007 Heavy jersey 20 Any Count 15.00 16.0008 Feeder Stripe Single Jersey 24 Full Feeder 16.00 18.0009 Feeder Stripe Single Jersey 24 Ab.20%F.Miss 20.00 22.0010 S/L,Polo Pk, Double Lacoste 24 Any Count 13.00 14.0011 F.F. Lycra Jersey 24 Any Count 24.00 25.0012 H.F. Lycra Jersey 24 Any Count 20.00 22.0013 Lycra Pique 24 Any Count 30.00 30.0014 Two Thread Terry 24 Any Count 16.00 18.0015 Lacra Terry 24 Any Count 28.00 30.0016 Fleece 20 40-10s/1 18.00 20.0017 Fleece 20 34/10-18-10s/1 16.00 16.0018 1X1 Rib 18 18-34s/1 13.00 14.0019 1X1 Rib 18 34-40s/1 14.00 15.0020 1X1 Lycra Rib 18 Any Count 20.00 20.0021 2X1 Rib 18 Any Count 18.00 18.0022 H.F.2X1 Lacra Rib 18 Any Count 25.00 25.0023 F.F.2X1 Lacra Rib 18 Any Count 30.00 32.0024 1X1 Rib Stripe 18 Any Count 20.00 20.0025 2X1 Rib Stripe 18 Any Count 25.00 25.0026 Waffle / Flat Back Rib 18 Any Count 30.00 35.0027 Plain Interlock 24 Any Count 17.00 18.0028 D.N.Interlock 24 Any Count 22.00 25.0029 Interlock Stripe 24 Any Count 25.00 30.0030 Lycra Interlock 24 Any Count 30.00 35.0031 Pointal Rib (Jacquard) 18 Any Count 70.00 80.0032 Engg. Stripe S/J (3 Colour) 24 Any Count 90.00 100.0033 Engg. Stripe S/J (6 Colour) 24 Any Count 100.00 110.0034 Engg. Stripe Lycra S/J 24 Any Count 200.00 250.0035 Engg. Stripe Pique 24 Any Count 110.00 120.0036 Engg. Stripe Terry 24 Any Count 160.00 180.0037 Engg. Stripe Rib/ Interlock 18/24 Any Count 170.00 180.0038 Solid Collar Set 14 Any Count 3.50 4.0039 Tipping Collar Set 14 Any Count 4.50 5.0040 Bitt Collar Set 14 Any Count 4.50 5.0041 Flat Knit Bottom/Kg 14 Any Count 75.00 100.00

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2.6 different parts of knitting m/c parts:

Needle cam Feede sinker cam needle

MPF yarn breakage detector

VDQ pulley Fabric takedown mechanism

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2.7 Description of Production Process:

In every mill there maintains a sequence in production processing. It is also followedin this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in listbelow:

1. Firstly knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as according asconsumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.

2. Production officer informs technical in charge & knows about machine in which theproduction will be running.

3. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decisionabout machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity,maintenance complexity etc.

4. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length &grey GSM for required final GSM.

5. Supervisor checks daily production regularity & make operator conscious aboutfinishing tin due time.

6. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. Ifhe thinks or sure about any fabrics faults then he calls for the mechanical fitters induty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Thenhe comes in spot.

7. After required production & final inspection in 4- point system, they sent in dyeingsection.

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2.8 Faults and Their Causes:

A. Holes: Thick thin place in the yarn. High tension in the yarn. Too much speed of the m/c. Defective needle.

B. Drop stitches: Yarn is not properly fed during loop formation. Insufficient yarn tension. Badly set yarn feeder. Defective needle.

C. Needle mark: Breakage of hook of needle. Breakage of latch of needle. Change of alignment of latch. Due to improper schedule maintenance.

D. Oil mark/ Grease mark: Excess oil/grease use in the m/c. Leakage in the oiling system. Bad quality lubricant is used. Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one. Jamming of needle and sinker.

E. Design variation: Variation of stripe in the m/c. Wrong cam arrangement.

F. Count variation: Different count of yarn package in the same lot. Different quality of yarn use in the same order. Variation of count in the same package in different places.

G. GSM variation: Variation in the stitch length. Wrong position of the VDQ pulley. Improper tension of the fabric during production. Wrong selection of yarn count.

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2.9 Production Calculation:A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency

B. Production/shift in meter

=

=

C. Fabric width in meter

=

=

D. GSM Calculation

1. =

=

2 =

=

E. Length calculation

=

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2.10 Maintenance in the Knitting Section:

For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done bycleaning the machine after every 7 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. Thisis done because

To maintain the quality of the fabric. To reduce the fabric fault. Removal of dust from the m/c. Cleaning of different parts of the m/c. Overall to increase the production of the m/c.

During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not.These are cleaned and also replace if necessary. These are

Needle Sinker Sinker Cam Cam Box Cylinder Full Body

Remarks: Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanicalfault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers takeaccount of daily production by running after the supervisor & workers so on.

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CHAPTER 3

BATCH SECTION

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3.0 Objective of Batching:

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other sources. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics (100% Cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card To keep records for every previous dyeing

3.1 Knitting Fabric Inspection & Grading Based on the Forty points System:

The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of QualityControl in the grey finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primaryconsiderations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.

The grading has two primary functions: first, to classify the fabrics according to standardqualities based on the end-use and customer demands and second, to supply information as tothe qualities actually being produced.

The Knitting fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number ofpoints for defects as follows.

The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards

The second quality level (40-80) points per Linear Yards

The third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards

3.2 General Instruction for the final inspection:

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All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be doneon each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.

a) All effects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate accountof points made to insure proper grading.

b) All fabric must meet specificationsc) At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide

whether the piece can be shipped as first quality.d) The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and

check the lower quality.e) Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll of piece will be cut. All

defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the price. Defects within the first2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.

f) Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to beincluded in the grading of fabric.

g) Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.h) All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.i) Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular

fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.

3.3 Proper Batching Criteria:

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

M/C in Batch Section Grey Inspection machine Turning machine

The Machine is used to reverse the knitted face to back and back to face. The Machine has capacity blower pipe, fabric turning pipe, roller and folding parts.

Specification of grey inspection machine:

No of m/c : 01Brand : GloryModel : T1-02Company name : Best leader machineryManufacturing date : 2007-6Country : china

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CHAPTER 4

DYEING SECTION

4.0 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING:

General Manager (GM)

35

AGM

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Senior Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing)

Manager (Dyeing) Asst. manager

Manager (Dyeing) In Charge

Production Officer Supervisor

Dyeing Master Operator

Floor in charge Helper

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

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4.1 Machine profile for Dyeing Section:

SL Name of Machine Brand Capacity (kgs) No. of Set

01 Atmospheric winch PMM, Turkey 025 03

100 01

200 01

300 01

400 01

600 01

750 01

800 01

02 High Temperature Winch PMM, Turkey 025 01

300 01

DMS Turkey 025 01

150 01

300 01

450 01

ACMI, Taiwan 050 01

600 01

1200 02

1500 01

Total No. of Machines 21

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4.2 LIST OF DYES USED IN

NO. NAME OF DYES TYPES SOURCE1 FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE

CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLORCHEMICAL INDUSTRY,INDONESIA.

2 FUCOZOL RED 3BF Reactive dyes Same3 FUCOZOL BLUE EBL Reactive dyes Same4 FUCOZOL BLUE EXN Reactive dyes Same5 ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive dyes ELBE INTERNATIONAL

LTD, CHINA6 ELBEZOL RED 3BSN Reactive dyes Same7 ELBEZOL BLACK-B Reactive dyes Same8 ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN Reactive dyes Same9 ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive dyes Same10 ELBEZOLORANGE F2R Reactive dyes Same11 ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G Reactive dyes Same12 ELBEZOLBLUE RSP Reactive dyes Same13 FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE

CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLORCHEMICAL INDUSTRY,INDONESIA.

14 FUCOZOL RED USB Reactive dyes Same15 FUCOZOL RED USG Reactive dyes same16 FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE

USBReactive dyes same

17 DIANIX YELLOW SEG Disperse dyes Dyestar, Germany18 DIANIX RED EFB Disperse dyes same19 DIANIX NAVY CC Disperse dyes same20 DIANIX T/BLUE SBG Disperse dyes same21 DIANIX BLUE ER Disperse dyes same22 DIANIX YELLOW

BROWN SERDisperse dyes same

23 TRICRON YELLOW E-ACT

Disperse dyes T & T INDUSTRIES CORP,TAIWAN

24 TRICRON RED E -ACT Disperse dyes same25 TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Disperse dyes same26 Polar White 4B k

38

4.3 Raw material for dyeing:

Chemicals used:

Basic chemicals: Hydrogen peroxide Acetic acid Soda ash Caustic soda Common salt Glubar salt Bleaching acid Hydrose

Detergent:I. PCLF

II. MA Scour APIII. FEROLZUM

Anti-creasing agent:I. MARLAKT CONC

II. ALBAFLUIDE CIII. MA Lube CIV. Best anti-creasing

Leveling agent:I. MARLADF CONC

II. Seragal PLP (LPF)III. PRIMALEV R CONCIV. Best leveller 723

Sequestering:I. Hanko QUST

II. MARLA DM CONCIII. MA Stab XLIV. Best SCQ 710

Peroxide killer:I. P.Killer (PK)

Stabilizer:I. MARLA PS CONC

II. Ultrafresh NMV-2III. Argaprep MSSIV. Primastab FF Conc

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Anti foam:I. Antifoam 39A

II. Albafix SRIII. Jontex Fix 500IV. Serafast CNCV. Asufix EPF

Enzyme agent:I. Boizep MC new

II. UNIZYME 600L

Softener agent:I. E-31 (white)

II. Softener A-1000 (COLOR)III. Matsoft NISBIV. Softener S-300V. Chemesoft CWS

4.4 Dyeing Process with Recipe

Light Color Process 100% Cotton

1. Machine Wash:

Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L)30 min at 90oc

Machine Washed

A. Acid (0.7g/L)

20min at 70oc

M/C Neutralized

2. Scouring & Bleaching:Detergent (1 g/L)Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L)Stabilizer (.8 g/L)Caustic (3 g/L)H2O2 (3 g/L)60min at 98’c

40

3. Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching):H2O2 Killer (.8 g/L)A.Acid (1 g/L)20min at 80’c

4. Enzyme Wash:A.Acid (1 g/L)Enzyme (1%)55min at 50’c, PH =4.5

5. Dyeing:Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L)Leveling Agent (1 g/L)A.Acid (.2 g/L)Dyes (According to shade %)G.Salt (According to shade %)Soda Ash (According to shade %)60min at 60’c

6. Neutralization: (Dyeing):A.Acid (1 g/L)10min at 40-50’c

7. Soaping:Soaping Agent (.5 g/L)20min at 70-80’c

8. Fixing & Softening:

Fixing Agent (.5 g/l)15min at 40’cA.Acid (.5 g/L)Softener (1.5 g/L)

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4.5 Main Component’s of a dyeing m/c:

1. Mixing tank: There is a tank in this machine. Every chemical are used to put here.There are some components here are as follows:a. Metallic mixing part: It is used to mix any solutionb. Air flow mixing part: It is also to mix any solution.c. Steamer: It is used to delivery steam in mixing tank.d. Steam controller: It can control the amount of steame. Filter: It is used to filter the solution which is transferred in to the main tank.

2. Main tank: The chemical from the tank is transferred here. The pretreatment anddyeing are completed here.

3. Monitor: It is situated at the right side of the machine. The commands are shown inthe monitor & the operators can work from these commands. There are also someoptions for working properly & to obey these commands.

4. Unloading reel: There is an unloading reel for unloading the dyed fabric.5. Three detectors: There are 3 detectors on the above of the nozzle are as follows:

a. Temperature detector: It is at the left side between these 3 detectors which candetect the temperature of the main tank.

b. Fabric turning pressure detector: It is at the middle of these 3 detectors. It candetect the pressure at which the fabric turning.

c. Atmospheric pressure detector: It can detect the atmospheric pressure of the maintank.

d. Panel board: There is a panel board at the right side of the machine by whichprogrammed can be set up.

4.6 Checklist before operation:

Checking the programMachine set-up.Fabric weight.Fabric quality.Collar design (Tipping/ solid).Rib designs (Normal/Lycra).Chemical availability.Power availability.Steam availability.Water availability.Compressed air.Manpower availability.Fabric stitch is done properly.

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4.7 Amount of Salt, Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis Of Shade%:

Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min)

0-0.1 30 10 20

0.1-0.5 30 15 30

0.5-01 40 20 40

1-1.5 50 20 50

1.51-2 60 20 60

2-2.5 70 20 60

2.5-5 80 20 60

Above 6 100 25 70

Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70

4.8 Dyeing Parameter:(pH)

Bleaching bath pH 10.5 – 11

Neutralization or after bleaching pH 5.5 – 6.5

Bio polishing bath pH 4.5

Initial dye bath pH 5.5-6.5

After alkali addition pH 10.5-11

After dyeing pH 5.0-6.0

Fixation bath pH 4.5 – 5.5

Softener bath pH 4.0 – 5.0

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4.9.1 Temperature:

For cotton Pretreatment 98 0CFor Cotton Biopolishing 550CCotton Dyeing 600CDuring Turquise 800CDuring Isothermal 600CRed special 60 0CWhite dyeing 80 0CFor Polyester Dyeing 1300CFor Cotton soaping 980CTemperature during softening & fixing 400CFor cotton hot wash (70-90)0CFor cotton acid wash (50-60)0C

4.10 List of dyes used in:NO. NAME OF DYES TYPES SOURCE1 FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD,

P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY,INDONESIA.

2 FUCOZOL RED 3BF Reactive dyes Same3 FUCOZOL BLUE EBL Reactive dyes Same4 FUCOZOL BLUE EXN Reactive dyes Same5 ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive dyes ELBE INTERNATIONAL LTD, CHINA6 ELBEZOL RED 3BSN Reactive dyes Same7 ELBEZOL BLACK-B Reactive dyes Same8 ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN Reactive dyes Same9 ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive dyes Same10 ELBEZOLORANGE F2R Reactive dyes Same11 ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G Reactive dyes Same12 ELBEZOLBLUE RSP Reactive dyes Same13 FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO

LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICALINDUSTRY, INDONESIA.

14 FUCOZOL RED USB Reactive dyes Same15 FUCOZOL RED USG Reactive dyes Same16 FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE USB Reactive dyes Same17 DIANIX YELLOW SEG Disperse dyes Dyestar, Germany18 DIANIX RED EFB Disperse dyes Same19 DIANIX NAVY CC Disperse dyes Same20 DIANIX T/BLUE SBG Disperse dyes Same21 DIANIX BLUE ER Disperse dyes Same22 DIANIX YELLOW BROWN SER Disperse dyes Same23 TRICRON YELLOW E-ACT Disperse dyes T & T INDUSTRIES CORP,TAIWAN24 TRICRON RED E -ACT Disperse dyes Same25 TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Disperse dyes Same26 Polar White 4B k

44

4.11 Chemical used:

Basic chemicals:

1. Hydrogen peroxide2. Acetic acid3. Soda ash4. Caustic soda5. Common salt6. Glubar salt7. Bleaching acid8. Hydrose

Detergent:

1. PCLF2. MA Scour AP3. FEROLZUM

Anticreasing agent:a. MARLAKT CONCb. ALBAFLUIDE Cc. MA Lube Cd. Best anticreasinge. Leveling agentf. MARLADF CONCg. Seragal PLP (LPF)h. PRIMALEV R CONCi. Best leveller 723

Sequestering:i. Hanko QUST

ii. MARLA DM CONCiii. MA Stab XLiv. Best SCQ 710

Peroxide killer:

1. P.Killer (PK)2. Stabilizer3. MARLA PS CONC4. Ultrafresh NMV-25. Argaprep MSS6. Primastab FF Conc7. Anti foam8. Antifoam 39A9. Fixing Agent10. Albafix SR11. Jontex Fix 50012. Serafast CNC13. Asufix EPF

45

Enzyme agent: Boizep MC new UNIZYME 600L

Softener agent:1. E-31 (white)2. Softener A-1000 (COLOR)3. Matsoft NISB4. Softener S-3005. Chemesoft CWS

4.12 Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing

Fill Water↓

Fabric loading & m/c run↓

Caustic soda dozing for 5min at 40ºC (PH 10.5-11)↓

H2O2 dozing for 5 min at 60ºC↓

Sequestering agent, anti-creasing agent, detergent dosing at 80ºC↓

Temp. Rise at 98ºC for 60 min↓

Bath Drop↓

Wash↓

Fill water4.13 Dyeing Faults:

Uneven Dyeing:Causes:

Uneven pretreatment Improper addition of chemicals Improper addition of color Using dyes of high fixation properties Less control of dyeing machine Less circulation time

Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment By proper addition of color and chemicals Correct circulation time By controlling the dyeing machine properly

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Batch to batch shade variation:

Causes: Using improper dyes and chemicals Incorrect pretreatment procedure Batch to batch weight variation of fabric Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation) Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals

Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment By proper addition of color and chemicals Correct circulation time By controlling the dyeing machine

Dark colored spots:

Causes: Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade Too high dyestuff concentration in the dyeing bath Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment

Remedies: By ensuring proper dyeing condition By selecting proper dyestuff By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing By ensuring proper after treatment

Patchy dyeing:

Causes: Due to hardness of water Due to faulty color addition Due to faulty injection of alkali Due to improper salt addition Due to improper pH of the solution

Remedies: By using proper sequestering By correcting the color addition By correcting the salt addition By proper injection of alkali By maintaining the pH level of the solution

47

Crease mark:

Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Due to high speed of m/c running Unequal pump pressure and reel speed

Remedies: By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed By controlling the speed of the machine Correct opening of the fabric rope

Roll to roll variation:

Causes: Poor migration property of dyes Hardness of water Improper dyes solubility Faulty machine speed

Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals Proper machine speed Using soft water

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CHAPTER 5

LAB DIP DEPARTMENT

49

5.0 Definition:

Lab Dip development means the sample which is dyed according to the buyer’srequirements. Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk productiondyes planning done.

The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C)

5.1 Machine Profile For Dyeing Laboratory

SL Name of Machine Brand No. of Set

01

Spectrophotometer attached withpentium-4 computer Datacolor

01

02 Spectra flash Model- SF 600x 01

03 Lab Sample DyeingAhiba Nuance, Swiss 01

Fongs, Hong Kong 03

04 Dimensional Stability Test. Wascator, Sewden 01

05 Color Assesment Cabinet Veri vide, England 04

06 Washing Machine Ariston 02

07 Rubbing Tester Crock Meter Roaches, England 01

Total No. of Machines 14

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Washing machine & Spectrophotometer Lighting Box

5.2 PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX):

This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no. in their order.Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. It’s a universal shade matching book.

Full name : Pantone Textile Color SelectorColor numbering system : 6 digit + suffixFirst two digits : 11 to 19 (range of lightness)Middle two digits : 01 to 64 (range of hue)Last two digits : 01 to 65 (range of chroma)

5.3 Necessary calculation:

5.4 Process flow chart of lab dip dyeing:

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Recipe correction

Two or more option of lab dips send to the buyer for approval

Approved Not approved

Go for production Making re lap dip

Approved

Spectrophotometer Visually calculating

Exact match with swatch

Recipe formulation

Checking the quality parameter

Swatch from buyer

Previous lap dipRecordSpectrophotometer

Matching visually

52

5.5 Lab dyeing process:Method: All in allDyeing Procedure:

Liquor ratio 1: 10 Add auxiliaries (labeling), dye, salt & soda ash at room temperature. Set temperature gradient 2oC/min up to 650C for avg color & run for 60 min. For turquoise dyes temperature gradient should be set 20C/min up to 800C & run for 40 min.

Wash Off: Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out. Soaping with 1 g/l detergent at 98ºC for 10 min. Rinse with cold water. Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade.

Dyeing of Polyester Fabrics with Disperse Dyes:

Method: All in allDyeing Procedure:

Liquor ratio 1 : 10 Add dye, buffer solution, leveling agent at room temperature. Set temperature gradient 20C/min up to 1300C. Run time 30 min at 1300C temperature. Cool down the machine at 800C with temperature 1.50C/min.

Wash Off: Rinse the sample in running cold water until clear water come out. Reduction clearing is done with 2 g/l caustic soda & hydrose. Dry up and ironing is done before assessing the shade.

Dyeing Scheme:

1300C

1300C, 30min (PES)

1000C

800C, 40 min (turquoise)

800C

650C, 60 min (avg color)

600C

400C

200C A = Dye + Salt + Soda + Auxiliaries (cotton)

Or dye + lebelling + buffer acid (PES) Washing

00C

53

CHAPTER 6

FINISHING SECTION

54

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubularform. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.

Finishing section is divided into two section, they are: Open line Tube line

The machines that are used in open lines that are given bellow: Slitting m/c & De-watering m/c Stenter Compactor

The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow: De-watering m/c Dryer Calendaring & compactor

6.0 List of Finishing Machine

SL Name Of Machine Brand Origin Capacity/type

No of Set

01 Dewatering &

De twisting

Bianco Italy Open width 01

Heliot France Tubular 01

Beneks Turkey Tubular 01

Dryer PPM Turkey Tube 8 Ton 01

02 Stenter LK & LH Taiwan Open 10 Ton 01

EHWHA Korea 10-11 Ton/day 01

03 Compactor Tubetex USA Tubular 06

Serteks Turkey Tubular 02

Bianco Italy Open width 01

Lafer Italy 8-12 Ton/day 01

6.1 Ballooning Squeezing m/c/De-Watering M/C:

55

This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing.The basic function of the squeezing m/c:

To remove the water from the fabric. To control the width of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric. To control the Spirality of the fabric. To control the over feeding system Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft. To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

Controlling points:

Dia setting must be accurate. Padder pressure depends on fabric construction. Excess padder pressure may

cause fabric damage. Speed must be optimum. Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.

Main parts: De-twisting device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form) Expender (to control width) Paddler (to remove water) Folding device Conveyer Belt Compressed air(to form the tube fabric into balloon to ensure the delivered fabric

to be crease free)

56

6.2 Tensionless Dryer m/c:

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from thefabric.

The basic function of the dryer: To dry the fabric in tube form. To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control) To control the GSM of the fabric.

Main parts of the machine: Overfeed roller Conveyor belt Steam chamber(6) Exhaust fan Motor(6) plaiter

Checking parameters: Overfeed ( %) : It depends on fabric structure & GSM Temperature: It depends on color & GSM.( normally for single jersey -1600C, for

high GSM, like-fleece, it may be 2500C ) Speed: It depends on fabric GSM. For higher GSM, lower the speed.

GSM Over feedUp to 120 14-15%120-140 12%140-200 7-8%200-250 5-6%

Utility: Electricity, steamHeating system: Steam dryer.

57

6.3 Tube compactor:

Important parts: Shaft & pulley(To control Dia) Shoe Blade Overfeed Roller Steam bar Conveyor belt Take off roller

Blade No Req. GSM110 Up to 125125 Up to 140140 Up to 180170 Up to 240200 Over 240

A pair of pulley: It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’s requirements.

Steam zone: It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which helps in compactingzone to compact the fabric.

Fig: Steam spray on fabric surface

Compacting zone: It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe.Fabric’s shrinkage, finished GSM and Dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at950c. Steel plate remove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard roller smooth theupper portion of the fabric surface at 950c.

Shaper: It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passing through the pulley.

Fabr

ic

58

The basic function of the tube compactor: To control the GSM (Increase & decrease) To control the Dia of the fabric To control shrinkage (Increase & decrease)

Controlling points of the tube compactor: Temperature- it depends on construction & composition and color of the fabric. Speed- it depends on temperature and fabric construction. Blanket pressure- fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure. Over feed- over should be optimum. It increase GSM but higher over feed leads

to the formation of crease mark.

Utility: Electricity steam

Front view of m/c compacting zone

Steaming zone

6.4 Tubular knitted Fabric slitting machine:

Important parts:

59

Automatic Detwister unit with sensor J box rope fabric squeezer cutter unit with slitter basket automatic needle path detector drive reduction unit full width fabric squeezer Plaiter triangle

Basic function: Dewatering Slitting

Utility: Electricity Compressed air

Detwister

Slitter Basket Cutter unit with automatic needle path detector

60

6.5 Stenter machine:

Important parts: Dewatering (3.5 -4 bar) Spreader roller Balancing roller Cylinder type weft straightened (weft reading & correction system) Sensor number 12 Selvedge sensor (2) Selvedge Locking System Fabric Transfer System (Prevention against loosening of fabric, curvature

phenomenon and contamination) Over feed roller: The over feed works up to (-10 to 80%) against Stenter chain speed. No. of chamber: 7 Heating method: direct gas heating system Blower (7) Burner( 7) Exhaust motor ( max 1800rpm) Wheel speed (30 rpm) Consisting of:

Cloth entrance 1 set 1 bowl padding mangle 1 set Cloth feeding and over feeding system 1 set Rail and conveyor system 1 set Drying and heat setting chamber 7 set Cutting device cooling & exit zone 1 set Cloth plaiting device 1 set

6.6 Basic function:

61

To control width To control GSM To control shrinkage To control Spirality To drying To remove edge curl of the fabric To remove crease mark To soften To get better shade properties Heat setting

Fabric Entry Section:The basic structure of the fabric entry section consists of the texture guider for de-twistingand opening of the fabric and centering, padded mangle for dehydration and padding ofchemicals and the swing roller compensator for the interlocking with over-feed system.

Over feed zone

62

Selvedge sensor & Wheel Fabric Transfer System

WEFT STRAIGHTENER HEATING SYSTEM

FABRIC OUTPUT

63

6.7 Open compactor:Important parts:

Dogal vaporizer Chain vaporizer (2) Overfeed Underfeed Wheel Felt (2) .Upper & lower felt temperature max 1300C. Chain width ( Max 110” & mini 35”) Spreader roller (4) Cylinder (2) Selvedge sensor Plaiter

Basic function:

To control GSM (both increase & decrease). Compacting is done up to - 6%. To control Dia To control Shrinkage Controlling points: Temperature-It depends on construction & composition & color of fabric. Speed-It depends on temperature & fabric construction. Overfeed, underfeed, wheel-depends on GSM. Chain width-depends on fabric width. Upper & lower felt tension set up. Chain drug overfeeding Lower felt extract tension setup

Over feed zone

64

Compacting Zone

Fabric Transfer System Selvedge sensor

Spreader roller Chain vaporizer

65

CHAPTER 7

QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION

66

7.0 Quality Assurance:

Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary toprovide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements forquality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniformquality of the material in process and various stages of manufacturing.

7.1 Object Of Quality Control:

Specification test Raw materials control Process control Process development Product testing Research

7.2 Quality Assurance System:Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:

1) Online quality control2) Offline quality control

7.2.1Online Quality Control:

Online quality control comprises with the1) Raw material control,2) Process control3) Finish fabric inspection.

7.2.1.1. Raw material control:

As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurancedepartment must ensure the best qualities of raw material (with economicalconsideration) are used in production.

The chemical should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity. The dyes and chemical should be compatible with each other. The fabric must be without faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per

requirement of the subsequent process.

7.2.1.2. Process control:

The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary parameters. Temperature, pH, water level specific gravity should be checked at each stage of

process. During dyeing, samples are taken and shade match with lab dip and when match,

allow for bath drop. If not properly match addition or topping is done until required shade come. After neutralization sample is collected and match with lab dip.

67

Sample is collected after fixation and matched. Last of all after softening sample is collected and match with lab dip. Each batch should be matched with other batch. During finishing, temperature, speed, padder pressure, overfeed should be

controlled as per requirement. GSM, width, Spirality, shrinkage (both length & width) should be maintaining as

per buyer requirement.

7.2.1.3. Finish fabric inspection:Purpose:

To ensure that an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garmentsand proper quality of shipment is received from the supplier.

Scope: All produced and incoming fabrics of SADMA FASHION WEAR LTD.

Procedure:

Store in charge will check the received fabric with the report length, color andtype of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and the actual orderquantity.

The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regardingfabric type, color and length will be notified to the GM/Asst. Manager.

For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection. Quality inspector (fabric) shall check 100% receive fabric for quality. He will

identify any defect, hole or stain in the fabric. The fabric is also checked for shading defect in side by side and length. Any

non- conformities/ shading will be notified to asst. manager using inspectedreports. Roll wise color uniformly card is maintained for identification ofshade variations.

During the fabric inspection if the yardage of any roll is reported more or lessby the fabric inspection machine then the one specified in the roll, the roll willbe measured manually using measuring tapes. Only calibrated measuring tapeshould be used.

The result of fabric inspection shall be recorded in fabric inspection report.

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7.3 Defects Found In the Final Inspection:

Uneven shade Dia problem GSM problem Running shade Oil spot Color spot Neps Crease mark Sinker mark Needle mark Caustic mark Softener spot Patta Hole Machine stoppage mark Listing Contamination Dead cotton

7.4 Offline Quality Control:Offline quality control generally comprises different tests of final product so that it is

possible to identify whether it pass against the norms given by buyer. The following test aregenerally done-

GSM test Shrinkage test (Length wise, Width wise) Dia measurement Length measurement Spirality test Shade Check Wash fastness test Rubbing fastness test Light fastness test

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CHAPTER 8

GARMENT SECTION

70

8.1SAMPLE SECTIONINTRODUCTION

Sampling is the process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match thebuyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. It alsocontributes in the domain of product development which helps to present the quality andcapability of service to the buyer. This department executes as per the specifications ofbuyer’s order and ensures any correction or alteration before starting bulk production as perbuyer purchase order.

8.1.1Flow process chart for sampling:

Receives the technical package frommerchandising department consisting of fabric

swatches, patterning, cutting and stitchingdetails.

Pattern master develops the pattern

Pattern is digitized and grading donewith the help of CAD & pattern master

Fabric consumption is calculated andMini marker is developed

Cut the fabric after approval fromIn- house QA and Buyer’s QA

Stitches the required no. of samples

Sending Samples for Further Processing

71

8.1.2 Various samples which are being developed at different stages are beingmentioned below:-

A) Proto Sample

B) Fit Sample

C) Sales Sample

D) Pre Production Sample / Top of Production Sample

E) Size Set Sample.

Proto Sample :

Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with thestyle. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available andthen checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses orthe buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, thestyle details etc. Once this stage is completed, it’s time to move on to the next stage.

Fit Sample:The fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample. Usually done with thesubstitute/actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the buyerfor necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comments of thebuyer, the revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained.

Sales Sample:

The sales sample is done when the buyer requests for a certain no. of pieces for the promotionof the product yet to come. It gives the buyer certain types of feedback about his product andleaves him better equipped to decide on the production quantity. It usually consists of 6 to 7pieces in each size and color.

Pre production sample:

It is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply aprelude to the actual production.

Size Set Sample:

It is done according to the buyer’s request. It is almost equivalent of the pre productionsample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the jumping sizes s per the buyer’srequest. The samples were made in the base size in 3-4 copies- Buyer, Factory reference,Delhi Buying House( Corporate Office) and Bangalore Buying Office. The sampling processvaries from buyer to buyer.

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8.2CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

INTRODUCTION

Cutting is one of the important department of the manufacturing unit. The first stage in themanufacture of the garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary patterns shapes.These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments.Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of manyplies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizesthat have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments maybedrawn on a paper marker placed on top of the lay, or information as to their shape andposition maybe held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on the paper marker or used todrive an automatic cutter.

8.2.1 Object of Cutting

The object of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to thedimension of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.

8.2.2 Requirements of Fabric Cutting

The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pieces in the marker plan.In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.

Precision of cut.

Clean edges.

Unscathed, infused edges.

Support of the lay.

Consistent cutting.

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8.2.3 Process Flow of Cutting Section

Cutting plan is prepared

Receiving shippingdate from

merchandizingDepartment

Delivery of fabric from Cuttingsection

Fabric is stored in Sub store

Marking paper is prepared

Fabrics are spread in a table

Marking paper is spread and attached

Cutting isdone

Every piece and parts are numbered

Parts are grouped Into bundles

Some are sent for Washing

Return to Cutting section

Separated every bundle according to Cutting and lot Ready for delivery toSewing section

Panel check

Is it qualified? RejectNo

Yes

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Work Process in Cutting Section

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8.2.4 Notes:

After merchandizing department informs about all the shipping date to cutting section, thecutting section makes a plan about their working schedule and make a list of the fabricswhich have to be cut.

8.2.5 Computerized marker making:

There are two systems for marker making

1. Digitizing system.2. Automatic system.

8.2.5.1 Factors related to marker efficiency:

Marker planer Size of garments Marker length Pattern engineering Fabric Characteristics Marker making method Marker width. Style of garments.

8.2.5.2 Marker efficiency: The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of themarker plan. The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:

8.2.5.3 Minimization of fabric wastage outside the marker:

There are four points for the fabric minimization outside the marker

1. Ends of ply losses.

2. Loss of fabric in roll.

3. Selvedge loss.

4. Purchase loss.

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8.2.5.4 Marker ratio:

According to the types of fabric, types of sizes, number of pieces which have to be made, amarker ratio is decided. If there are some different sizes such as size : 6,8,10,12,16,18 whichhave to be made for an order and if the marker ratio is 2,2,2,2,2,2; then it means that twopieces of each size has to be made from each lay of fabric.

8.2.5.5 Marking paper:

When the sample section delivers the pattern, the design is made on a marking paper. Thedesign is mainly according to the marker ratio. The pattern of certain design is first put on themarking paper and then the design is drawn.

8.2.6 Quality check:

After all the parts are finished from cutting then a quality check is made for every piece orpart. If any part is found defected then it is first seen whether the defect can be repaired bycutting. If it cannot be repaired then the part is rejected.

8.2.7 Exceptional cases:

There are some cases for which some exceptional or extra actions have to be made.

One of the exceptional cases is for the fabric which has to be washed before thecutting is done. Those fabrics are first arranged and cut according to the length of themarker. Then they are sent for washing. After the return of the fabrics from washingthe usual cutting process goes on.

Another exceptional case is the fabric of stripe type. Instead of making or spreadingof long lay, lays are arranged in a small length in order to matching the stripes withone another.. After cutting, each piece is checked whether the stripe so matchedaccording to the required design. If not matched, another worker cuts the stripe with ascissor to make the matching. This process continues for each piece of the stripefabric. Then the usual numbering, bundling and quality checking continues. Thecutting process or checking for the stripe normally takes longer time than any othertypes of fabric as here the stripes needs to be matched and that’s why each and everypart has to be checked.

8.2.8 Fabric Spreading

Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layer of specifiedlength. The cutting marker is laid on the top most layers. The maximum width of the cuttingmarker is constrained by the usable width of the fabric.

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8.2.9 Objects of Fabric Spreading:

The objects of fabric spreading are

To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plancorrectly aligned as to length and width, without tension.

To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garmentsmarker plans and the saving in putting time per garment that result fromcutting many plies at a time.

To make every ply plain and flat.

To save the time by cutting many layers of fabric at a time.

8.2.9.1 Types of Fabric Lay:

Spreading means the smooth laying of the fabric insuperimposed layer (plies) of specified length andafter spreading the shape of fabric plies is calledfabric lay. Fabric lay may be of different types.According to the direction of fabric spreading,fabric lay is of three types.

Fabric spreading from right to left.

Face to face fabric spreading and

Zigzag lay.

In Niagara Textile Limited fabric lay is found by fabric spreading from right to left Fabricspreading.

Figure Fabric spreading

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8.2.9.2 Determination of Lay Height:

In Niagara Textile ltd. & the lay height level followed for different types of fabric is givenbellow.

Fabric type Maximum lay height

1. Single Jersey (2.5 – 3) inches

2. Lycra Single Jersey (2 – 2.5) inches

3. Interlock (2.5 – 3) inches

4. Lycra Interlock (2 – 2.5) inches

5. (1×1) Rib (3 – 3.5) inches

6. (1×1) Lycra Rib (2.5 – 3) inches

7. (2×2) Rib (3 – 3.5) inches

8. (2×2) Lycra Rib (2.5 – 3) inches

9. Pique & Lacoste (3 – 3.5) inches

10. Lycra Pique & Lacoste (2.5 – 3) inches

8.2.10 Types of Fabric Package:

There are many fabric packages used in textile industry. Such as

Open fabric – rolled.

Tubular knitted fabric-rolled.

Folded fabric-rolled.

Folded fabric-cut.

Velvet hanging etc.

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8.2.11 Methods of Cutting:

There are mainly three methods of cutting. They are

1. Completely by manual i.e. Hand operated scissor.

2. Manually operated powered knife.

Straight knife

Band knife.

Round knife.

Die cutter.

Notcher.

Drill.

3. Computerized Technique.

Knife cutting.

Laser cutting.

Plasma torch cutting

Cutting by water jet.

8.2.12 Problem in cutting section:

1. Dust.

2. Poor lighting system

3. Narrow passage

4. Haphazard arrangement of fabric store

5. Fabric wastage.

Remarks:Cutting section is most sensitive section of garment. Many operation are done this sectionsuch as marker making, sorting, fabric spreading, cutting etc. There are some skillful peopleto do this job in this factory.

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8.3 SEWING SECTION:

Introduction:

Niagara Textile ltd has a strong set-up for sewing section. Right at the moment 31 sewinglines are running with full capacity. In existing all of the lines, we have all modern sewingmachines compatible for all types of sewing.

8.3.1 Different parts of sewing m/c:

M/C parts Picture

Bobbin

Bobbin Case

Bobbin Winder

Feed Dog

Needle Clamp

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Pressure Foot

Stitch Length Controller

Throat Plate

Thread Take-Up Lever

Table M/C parts

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8.3.2 Process flow chart of sewing:

Operation finished and product goes for Final inspection

No

Stain

Oil spot removalin the finishingdepartment

Operation

Quality check

Does the qualityparameter meetrequirements?

Next operation continues

Rework or replace

What typeof defect?

Sewing defect

Fabricfault

Design from theSample section

Preparation of layout

Fit forProduction

Accessoriesfrom store

Sub store

Collection of cut parts

Yes

Yes

Delivered tofinishing

department

Delivered toWashing department

NoQualified for

Delivery

Yes rejection

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8.3.3 Stitch:

Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principles interloping, interlacing to join two ply offabrics. A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread or yarn. Stitches are the fundamentalelements of sewing, knitting, embroidery, crochet, and needle lace-making, whether by handor machine. A variety of stitches, each with one or more names, are used for specificpurposes.

8.3.3.1 Stitch type:

Stitches are of 70 types. All these types of stitches are grouped in six classes. According to

British standard;

1. Stitch class-100 (Single thread chain stitch).

2. Stitch class-200 (Hand stitch).

3. Stitch class-300 (Lock stitch).

4. Stitch class-400 (Multi thread chain stitch).

5. Stitch class-500 (Over edge stitch).

6. Stitch class-600 (Covering chain stitch).

1. Stitch class-100(chain stitch):

In this stitch -one loop passing through the loop of same thread. Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory. It can produce easily and high speed using one needle. Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch. Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up It is also used blind stitch purpose. If one unit is break then whole stitch is open.

Uses: Hemming, button attaching, button attaching, gathering and temporary positioning ofgarment component and purpose.

2. Stitch Class-200(hand stitch)

Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread by use of special typesof sewing machine.

Stitch class-200 cannot be produced for longer length sewing. Uses for stitches costly garments.

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3. Stitch class-300(Lock Stitch) It require two types of sewing thread Both side are same It is difficult to pick up. Less extensibility More compact Yarn consumption is comparatively less. Stitch under this class is naturally secured. It is widely used in garments factory.

4. Stitch class-400(multithread chain stitch)

One or more thread is used. One group is called upper thread and another group is called lopper thread(under

thread) Security of this stitch higher than lock stitch about 30% Higher production than lock stitch due to use large package. This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying of yarn of fabric. It is widely use for making knitted garments.

5. Stitch class-500(Over edge chain stitch)

It required more than two threads One group is called upper thread; another group is called lopper thread. Security is higher than lock stitch about 30% It is used for making knitted garments. It is also used for decorative purposes. It is only used in the edge of the fabric

6. Stitch class-600(Covering chain stitch & Flat)

Three or more sewing thread is used to make this stitch. Three groups of sewing threads are used:

1) Needle thread2) Lopper thread3) Covering thread

Security is good. This type of stitch is used to join side by side of fabric without increasing thickness. This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear without increasing thickness.

This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid elastic etc

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8.3.4 Different Operations of Sewing M/C:

1. Plain sewing m/c:

Plackets join.

Lower placket close.

Placket 1/16 top stitch.

Placket box stitch.

Collars make.

Collar band top stitch.

Collar band make.

Collars join.

Collar top stitch with label.

Collar band join.

Side slit top stitch.

Zippers join.

Zipper top stitch.

Patch label attach.

Hanger loop attach.

Pockets join.

SLV in & out side tack.

Neck in & out side tack.

Neck V tack.

Nose tack

2. Over lock sewing m/c

Shoulder joins with tape.

SLV ribs attach.

SLV joins.

SLV lengths 1st side join.

SLV lengths 2nd side join.

Side seam.

Side seam with care label.

Side seam with placketedge over lock.

Neck rib joins.

Elastic attach at waist belt

3. Flat lock sewing m/c:

SLV hem.

SLV contrast hem.

Bottom hem.

Bottom contrast hem.

Leg hem.

Back neck binds.

Armhole binds.

Armhole top stitch.

Shoulder top stitch.

Wais belt top stitch.

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8.3.5 List of Garments Machineries

SL Machine Name Brand Total

Juki Pegasus Yamata Nagishing Kansai Hashima Idea

1 Plain 629 629

2 Over lock 55 243 21 319

3 Flat lock 22 147 05 174

4 Button Hole 16 16

5 Button Stitch 19 19

6 Snap Button 05 05

7 Peaconting 03 02 05

8 DFD 01 01

9 PMD 02 02

10 Feed of the Arm 02 02

11 Re-cone 02 02

12 Rib Cutting 08 08

13 Back tape 06 06

14 Bartack Computer 08 08

15 Two Needle 02 02

16 Fusing 01 01

17 Zic Zac Plain 02 02

18 Conver Stitch 02 02

Total 1203

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8.3.6 Sewing sequence of basic T-shirt in Niagara:

Serial Operation Machine used

1. Solder Joint Over lock M/C Thread no.3

2. Neck rib makePlain M/C. Thread No 1

3. Neck joint Over lock M/C. Thread No 3

4. Main + Size level joint Plain M/C. Thread No 1

5. Main + Size level joint Plain M/C. Thread No 1

6. Piping Kansai M/C. Thread No 4

7. Sleeve ham Flat Lock M/C. Thread no.3

8. Sleeve joint O/L M/C. Thread no.4

9. Sleeve joint O/L M/C. Thread no.4

10. Level Attaching (Care Level) Plain M/C. Thread No 1

11. Side Seam O/L M/C. Thread no.4



14. Khara Tuck Plain M/C. Thread no.2

15. Chap Tuck Plain M/C. Thread no.2

16. Bottom Ham Flat Lock M/C(1) Thread No 3

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8.4 WORK-STUDY:

Work-study is a management techniques to investigate all factors, which are affecting to theproductivity.

Two Techniques of Work Study:

1. Method Study

2. Work Measurement

WORK STUDY

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8.5 IE:

Industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation ofintegrated system of man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge andskill in the technical, economics and human sciences. Either with the principles or methods ofengineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtainedfrom such system

Responsibility of an IE officer:

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8.5.1Flow process chart of IE department:

91

8.6 SMV:

SMV means Standard Minute Value. A standard operator is one who is accepted as havingthe necessary physical attributes, who possesses the required intelligence and education andhas acquired the necessary skill and knowledge to carry out the work in hand to satisfactorystandards of safety, quantity and quality

Parameter to be considered when giving SMV for an operation:

Handling– pick-up, Aligning, Dispose, Tool use, Machine Handling etc

Sewing –

1. Machine RPM, SPI/SPC and mc Features

2. Seam Length

3. Seam Type – (Visible/ Invisible, Straight, Curved etc).

4. Stopping accuracy (End back tack, Pivot, Runoff etc)

5. Attachment Use (Folders, Gauges.etc)

6. Personal, Machine Effectiveness

8.6.1 SMV calculation:

SMV = BT + ALLOWANCES

Direct Basic Time can be generated by GSD or any PMTS versions.

In Stop watch Time study

**100

OT ORBTSR

BT- BASIC TIME

OT- OBSERVED TIME

OR- OBSERVED RATING

SR- STANDARD RATING

Z

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8.7 Sewing Problem:

Sewing defect can be classified in three different groups:

1. Problems Of Stitching Formation.

Slipped stitch:

Stitches in the seam are present in a regular wise. If the interloping or interlacing between top& bottom thread of stitch is not take place or mossed is known as slipped stitch or skippedstitch. This is more harmful in case of chain stitch than lock stitch. The following are thecauses and remedies of slipped stitch formation given by a table.

No Cause Remedies

01 If hook or looper & needle arenot inserted in loop of threadin time.

Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook orlooped.Placing of needle properly.More secured needle should be used.

02 Irregular thread tension onupper or lower loop.

The tension of thread should again be adjusted.

03 Due to needle deflection. Needle to be changed.

04 If needle thread loop size istoo small.

Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.

05 When flagging of fabricsduring sewing is happened.

The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.The hole of throat plate & needle size must be adjusted.

Staggered stitch:

If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel or become curvy to sewing line is known asstaggered stitch. The following are the causes and remedies of staggered stitch formationgiven by a table:

No. Causes Remedies

01 Needle deflection Increases the needle size.Tapered needle should be used.

02 Due to wrong or blunt needle point. Needle to be changed03 Wrong adjustment of needle & thread

size.Needle size and thread size should be changed.

04 Defected motion of feed dog. Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.05 If fabrics are not controlled properly in

the feed mechanism.The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.Feed mechanism to be changed.

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Unbalanced Stitch:

This type of defect is found in lock stitch machine. If the interlacement of thread are nottaken place in the middle (i.e. if the interlacement is taken place in the upper or lowerposition from the middle) of two layers of fabrics then it is known as Unbalanced stitch. Thefollowing are the causes and remedies of unbalanced stitch formation given by a table:

No. Causes Remedies

01 Wrong tension of sewing thread Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads.Proper care to the twisting of thread during sewing.

02 Used wrong thread path. Use of right thread path.03 Wrong adjustment of needle

thread path.Use of right thread path.

04 Snagging of needle with bobbincase & positioning finger.

Bobbin case to be smooth.The positioning finger to be set again.

05 If the threads are not lubricated. Better qualities threads must be used.

Table unbalanced stitch

Frequent thread Breakage:

This is the breakage of thread again and again during sewing. Andalso, there needs more time and which is harmful for production.Especially when there needs to open out of sewing to solve theproblem. The following are the causes and remedies of frequentthread breakage formation given by a table.

No Causes Remedies01 Wrong winding of threads on to the

bobbin.Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.Pre-wound bobbin may be used.

02 More tension to the bobbin threads ormore rotating of bobbin.

The tension must be adjusted to the bobbinthreads.Use of washer to prevent the more rotating ofbobbin.

03 If the edges bobbin case, lopper eyeand so on are more sharpened.

The edges to be smooth.

04 Wrong fitting of bobbin case. Examine the size and type of bobbin.Examine the damaging of bobbin case.

Problems of puckers:

Figure Thread Breakage

94

Unwanted waviness of the fabric along the seam line is called seam pucker. This may beapparent immediately after sewing or it may develop in later in use. Most of the times,sewing threads are referred as the responsible for seam pucker. But without sewing threads,there are so many reasons for occurring seam pucker. Such as fabric structure, seam structure,needle size, feeding problem, uneven thread tension and so on. This can be seen after sewingand sometimes after washing of garments. There is a great possibility of seeing seam puckerin case of more piles of fabrics sewing together. The following are the main reason ofoccurring seam pucker.

1. Variable or uneven stretch on fabric piles:●There is a great possibility of seeing seampucker in case of more piled of fabrics sewingtogether.● Due to variable stretch on fabric piles theywill not feed equally to sewing m/c & createseam pucker.● this type of pucker is seen for the limitationof feed mechanism.

2. Fabric dimensional instability:● If the shrinkage of sewn fabric piles are not same or equal than seam pucker will

create after washing.● To avoid this. It must be know the shrinkage property of different types of fabricsbefore sewing.● If the shrinkage percentage of area of two pieces fabrics is more than 2, then seampucker will occur after sewing the fabrics together.

3. Sewing threads shrinkage:

● Due to variable shrinkage percentage of sewing thread & fabric, seam pucker willcreate after washing or ironing.● To protect this. It must know about the shrinkage percentage of fabric & threadbefore selection to sew.● There is less possibility of occurring seam pucker when sewing is done by syntheticthreads due to less shrinkage percentage of them.

Remarks:

Sewing section is the important section of garments. There are many processes in this sectionfor making garments. This section needs skilful operator otherwise garments to be fault.

8.8 Finishing:

Figure seam puckering

95

INTRODUCTION

Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look. In thisdepartment each garment undergoes different finishing processes. It undergoes for qualitycheck for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects. Buyerspecifications and instructions are strictly maintained. Our finishing section is equipped withmodern pressing machines & trained workers. Like other operations, quality of garments isstrictly being controlled here to secure acceptable quality level. Following are the differentfinishing processes-

Trimming.

Quality Check.

Sewing Section

Rivet / Buttons / Brand label Attachment.

Sewing Section

Rivet / Buttons / Brand label Attachment

Ironing

Darning

Touch Up

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8.8.1 FLOW PROCESS CHART OF FINISHING SECTION:

Scanner checks ifthere is any metal

parts left in theclothing.

Metal part isremoved

Product is dropped on the moving part of thescanner.

Product is received from sewingsection

The clothes are ironed

A quality check is done tosee if there is any fault in

ironing or in fabric.

Cloths are folded or attached to hanger as per the requirement ofbuyer.

Folded parts are packed into poly bag

Folded parts are assorted and keptin cartons with H-tag as per the

requirement of buyer.

When the fault is inironing it is sent for

ironing and for otherfault, step is taken tomake it defect free.

Yes

Yes

no

No

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8.8.2 Ironing:

This is a finishing process done by subjecting a cloth to heat & pressure with or withoutsteam to remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to the or garments. Also,pressing is done to introduce creases in the garments, in garments industries, pressing iscalled Ironing.

8.8.3Pressing:

Pressing is the process to remove unwanted crease and crinkles from the fabric to give it

smoothness, lustrous and fine appearance. Pressing is a finishing process which is done to

garments by heat and pressure. It is also called ironing in garments factory.

Categories of pressing:

No pressing: Here pressing is not required, e.g. knitted garments such as under

garments, briefs etc.

Minimum pressing: Only heat is applied to garments, such as sweater, T-shirt etc.

Under pressing: Before sewing some parts of garments are pressed for its proper

finishing, such as pants, coats/blazer etc.

Final pressing: After completing the garments final pressing is done then it is packed

to a poly bag for shipment.

Permanent pressing: Many fabric effects are made by heavy pressing; this is known as

permanent pressing, e.g. pleat of shirt, dirt of pant, lapel of coat etc.

8.8.3.1 Objects of Ironing/ Pressing:

1. Remove of unwanted creases and crinkles.2. To apply creases where necessary.3. Shaping.4. Under pressing.5. Under pressing.6. Final pressing.

8.8.4Folding:

After pressing garments are given crinkle according to the specific volume or standard

volume is known as folding. Folding types are depends on the different types

fabric/garments.

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8.5 Types of Packaging:

There are two types of packaging. Such as-

A. Solid packaging.

B. Assorted packaging

8.5.1Types of Assortment:

A. Assorted color & Solid size

B. Solid color & assorted size

C. Assorted color & assorted size

D. Solid color & Solid size

8.5.2 TYPES OF POLY:

A. Single Poly.

B. Blister poly

C. Hanger poly.

D. Master poly.

E. Box poly.

8.5.2.1 Poly measurement:

Length=folding length+ allowance

Width=folding width+ allowance.

Poly measurement= length* width

Inner cartoon measurement:

Length=Poly length+ allowance

Width=Poly width+ allowance

Height= each garment height*6+allowance

Inner cartoon measurement= length* width* height

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8.6 Care label symbols:

100

8.7 Garments Defect:

Garment defects can be separated into three categories:

1. Fabric defects:

These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines.E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreignyarn, slub, hairiness etc.

2. Workmanship and handling defects:

These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both thecutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfectworkmanship.

Workmanship & handling defects are given below;I. Cutting defects.

II. Pattern defects.a. Sewing defects:

1. Seam puckering.2. Broken seam/ open seam.3. Broken stitch.4. Slipped stitch.5. Wavy/ staggered stitch.6. Uncut/ loose thread.

III. Ironing fault:a. Look crinkle (if poor ironing)b. Look shiny (if too much ironing)

IV. Finishing fault:a. Misplacement of label, hangtag, stitches etc.b. Misaligned button, unfinished button whole, distance fault of button.c. Wrong folding.

Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attachingtrims, packing etc.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screenprint, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.

Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.

101

1. Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most seriousof defects (0%).

2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%)depending on buyer’s requirements.

3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%)depending on buyer’s requirements.

Remarks:

The term garments finishing mainly applies to pressing, folding and packing of garments.After compacting pressing, the garments have to be folded. Garments are folded according tothe direction of buyer’s requirements or in standard area. So finishing department isimportant of garments.

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CHAPTER 9

Marchendising

103

9.1 Process flow chart of Merchandising:

Merchandiser

Negotiation with buyer & collect order

Costing

Sample making

Get approval & placement of order

Collect accessories for production

Line balancing

Production monitoring

Final Inspection

Banking

Shipment

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9.2 Merchandising:

Merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell and buy products. A merchandiser issomeone who purchases a product from a manufacturer, and then sells it to buyers. Easily itcan be said that a merchandiser is he/ she who act like a buyer to a supplier and also act like asupplier to the buyer. There are numerous techniques that a merchandiser may use toconvince buyers to buy the products he or she is selling.

The term merchandising is defined as follows:

* The term merchandising related with trade

* Trade means buying & selling

* The person who is involved with trade, he/she is a merchandiser

* And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a merchandising

9.3 Responsibility of senior merchandiser:

Sample development

Price negotiation

Order confirmation

L/C opening

Opening summery

Sourcing

Material collection

Production planning

Production monitoring

Quality assurance

Arrange final inspection

9.4 Purchase order sheet:

What is Purchase Order Sheet?

This is generally abbreviated to P.O.

The Purchase Order can be defined as a written sales contract between buyer andseller detailing the exact merchandise to be rend from a single vendor.

It will specify payment terms, delivery dates, item identification, quantities, shippingterms and all other obligations and conditions.

A contract to purchase merchandise may include a number of P.O. sheets definingthem color-wise and size-wise quantity or as per buyers' wish.

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9.5 What does a P.O. Contain?

The Purchase Order is provided to the vendor as a record of the Purchase. A sample PurchaseOrder sheet indicates the followings-

A) Purchase Order Number

- The number is assigned to the purchase order. This is used to identify a definite order andfor departmental record keeping,

B) vendor's Name and Address

- The complete name and address of the individual or company which manufacture themerchandise.

- The sequential line number which corresponds with the line on the requisition (i.e., thefirst item would be line 1; the second would be line 2, etc.).

C) Quantity

- The quantity of the item being purchased.

D) UQP (Unit of Purchase)

-The packaging of the item to be purchased (i.e., each, box, package, poly, dozen,carton etc.)

E) Unit Price

- The unit price of the item ordered.

F) Extended Price/ Total Price

- The total quantity of the item multiplied by its unit price.

G) Description- The complete description of the item ordered in detail, i.e. color, size ratio, critical designs,buttons and other trims, printings, sewing thread used etc,

H) Total The total amount of all items on the purchase order. During partial shipment, color-wise and size-wise quantity to be shipped is

mentioned.

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9.6 Inquiry sheet:

What is an Inquiry Sheet?This is the most important document sent by the buyer to a merchandiser to start themerchandising activities.The technical term of Inquiry Sheet is Product Specification Sheet(P, S, S,). But some buyer and some manufacturer also use the term of Tech-Pack or Style-Pack.

The buyer specifies all the necessary points of a particular garment What they want topurchase-

The merchandiser has to study the P, S.S. very well for farther Activities. He must replywithin 24 hours.

What does the Inquiry Sheet possess?

The Tech-Pack includes the following- Styling of the garment Sketch of the garment Size range Fabric (denoted with cut-able width ) Interlining Pocketing(for shirt or pant) Measurement sheet

9.7 Trims/Accessories-

I. Label

Main label (with/without size) Care label Trucking label/DPCR label Size label

II. Tag

III. Hang tag, joker tag and adjustable waist tag.

IV. Thread: color & count specified.

V. Button: Ligne number and types specified.

VI. Zipper

VII. Bow (for kids' item)

VIII. Poly

IX. Tag pin

X. Gum tag

XI. Carton ETC

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Washing details (for denim fabrics) Embroidery details (if any) Printing details on Art Sheet (if any)

9.8 SWATCH CARD:

What is Swatch Card?

When all the items (fabric and accessories) needed to manufacture a particular style ofgarment are attached on a board as a sample by using both side adhesive tapes, it is calledSwatch Card.

Separate swatch card is prepared for different style of garment.

The objective of making 'Swatch Card1 is to assess the quality for production

The items attached in a swatch card are -

Fabric - separately for each different color. Thread - for different count and type Button - for different Ligne Number Label - for different types (main, size & care label etc) and for Différent size (2T,

3T etc). Price tag Poly bag ETC

Swatch Card has to made a few for each separate department, for example -

For Production Manager For Quality Manager For Store Office For Buying house / Buyers representative For Merchandiser own self And for each production unit.

9.9 Importance of Swatch Card:

For a merchandiser this is very important for continuing his job.

Without this he cannot move his arena-

It is chat where all materials and accessories are present with their color combination. Forthis, it is much more important to lake approval from the buyer as well as to give theappropriate instructions to the supplier to supply the necessary and appropriate goods.

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9.10 How can we get Fabric Consumption & Fabrics Price?

Say: ** Body Length = 85, Chest Width = 52, Sleeve Length = 44 & G.S.M = 240

Fabric Description: 100 % Cotton S/J

Fabric Need = [(85+5+44+5) 52+5] 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= [(90+49) 57] 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= (13957) 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= 7923 12 240/10000000+10%

= 45636480/10000000 + 10%

= 4.563648 +10%

= 4.563648 + .4563

= 5.02 Kgs Fabrics

Say Per Kgs Price: US$ 6.00/Kgs

8.30 Fabrics Price:

Total Fabric Need 5.00 Kg $ 6.00 = $ 30.00

Trim/ Accessories (Minimum Charge) = $ 2.50

Cutting & Making Charge (C.M) = $ 5.00

Printing Charge (If any) = $ 0.00

Embroidery Charge (If any) = $ 0.00

Buying Commission (If necessary) 5% = $ 1.97

= $ 39.47/12

9.11 Poly bag costing :

Total Length X width X Thickness

= 36cm X 28cm X 10mm

= 10080/72000

= 0.14pcs/lb

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I) Ship To

- Receiving Department address

J) Deliver To

- The complete name and location of the individual who requested the ordered goods.

K) Dale

- The date at which the purchase order was received and also the date at which the order willhave to be shipped.

L) Payment Terms

- Payment terms defined by Purchasing Department of the buyer.

M) Ship Via

- Shipping instructions entered by Purchasing Department.

N) F.O.B.

- Shipping terms defined by Purchasing Department.

O) Freight Terms

- Freight terms defined by Purchasing Department.

P) P. O. Line No.

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CHAPTER 10

QUALITY CONTROL

LABORATORY

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10.0 Physical Tests:

1. Fabric weight (GSM)

2. Smoothness & appearance

3. Color fastness to rubbing

4. Color fastness to light

5. Dimensional Stability

6. Color fastness to wash

1. Fabric weight (GSM):

Fabric is cut by GSM cutter and its weight is measured by electric balance. Then the

result is multiplied by 100 to get the actual result.

2. Smoothness & appearance:

Fabric smoothness & appearance is measured by hand feel.

3. Color fastness to rubbing:Rubbing time : 10 timesSample size : 14×5cm

2

Crocking cloth size: 5*5 cm2

Process :Place the fabric in the given position of the crockmeter and attach it with aframe tightly with the crockmeter.Then start the machine and after 10 times rubbing both in dry & wet condition,take out the fabric from the crockmeter and compare it with the grey scale forstaining.

4. Color fastness to light :Sample size: 12*5 cm

2

Process time : 40 hrs (according to buyer requirement)

Process :Put the sample in the clamp and then put it in the machine. Start running themachine and keep it running for recommended hours of buyer.Then take it out and compare with the grey scale of color staining for rating.

5. Shrinkage & spirility test:Sample size : 50×50 cm

2

Process:

At first two fabric is cut as per above given dimension. Then it is sewn in 4 sides. Then area is req. marked inside the total area. Then the sample fabric is taken out and washed & dried as per following: Then measurement is taken again to find out shrinkage%.

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After washing

Before washing

Shrinkage%= {(before length- after length)/before length} *100 %Here A = Length measurement before wash

B = Spiraled length.

By this test spirality can also be measured by the following formula,

Spirality % = (B÷A) × 100 %

6. Color fastness to Wash:

Method: ISO 105 C06

Apparatus:

Grey scale

Multifibre fabric

ECE detergent

Sodium perborate

Steel ball

Sample – 10*4 cm2

Multifibre- 10*4 cm2

Recipe:

ECE detergent 4 g/l

Sodium perborate 2 g/l

M: L =1: 50

Temperature: 50 0C

Time: 30 min

Steel ball – 15 pcs

Evaluation:

Compare the contrast between the treated and untreated sample with grey scales for changing

color of dyed sample and staining of adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet.

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Chapter 11

Production planning &

control

11.0 Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control:

114

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within therequired time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives ascheduled task and control completes it successfully. But production planning and control isnot an easy task. Its basic working procedure is as follows-

Taking order form marketing division Analyzing the orders Planning for knitting the fabric Planning for dyeing the fabric Planning for finishing the fabricIt is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes

the order is planned only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then somesteps are minimizing for planning.

Taking order from the marketing division

Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division by aspecific format. Analyzing the orders:

After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyersorder quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.) delivery date etc. Thissection plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted, knitting balance, fabric to be dyed,dyeing balance RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance. Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no ofm/c to be used, type of yarn used, from which source of yarn will be collected, requiredGSM, width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric. Planning for dyeing of the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called ‘‘Batch Plan”. Batch plan is preparedaccording to m/c capacity, no. of nozzle batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM andpriority of delivery etc. and written in a batch card. Planning for finishing of the fabric:

Finishing schedule is same as dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishingsection with the batch plan. The fabric can be finished in the open line finish or tube linefinish. Finishing line will be selected according to the type of the fabric to be finished.Finishing data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section. Howeverthis section always forces to all the departments to finish all the work within the delivery timegiven by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

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CHAPTER 12

MARKETING ACTIVITIES

12.0 Main Products:

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T-shirt, polo shirt & different types of Men’s, Lady’s, kid’s wear in various kinds of knitfabrics.

12.1 Communication System:

Intercom Telephone Fax E-Mail Written Letter Oral

12.2 Major Buyers & Exporting Country:

H&M

Tchibo

Target stores

US Polo

Lazy Jacks

Big Star

Charles Vogele

Dunnes stores

Woolworth

New Look

Unitessile

MASCOT

LOBLAWS

POINT ZERO

SEARS

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12.3 Marketing Strategy:

Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If themarketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case ofgarments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor.

In Niagara Textile Ltd. Mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officialsdeal with the buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. H&M is the mother buyer inNiagara. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers& the merchandisers communicate with the buying house to collect the orders. By both sideunderstanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed.

12.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officers:

1. Executive director takes order from the buyer & gives order the marketing officer’stroops to produce a cost sheet.

2. Marketing officers are known the amount and design of product.3. They collect the sample from the buyers and send to the knitting & dyeing section.4. Knitting section adjusts the amount of total yarn and knitting conditions and dyeing

sections adjust the amount of dyes and chemicals. They send a rough calculation tothe marketing section.

5. Marketing officers adjust the amount of garments accessories with the help of theirown experiences and their knowledge. They also take help of garments in charge.

6. Finally, they adjust their cost sheet after consulting with the executive director andcopy several pieces of the cost sheet.

12.5 Remarks:

Marketing activities are very important tasks for a productive factory. In this Industry theyare having highly qualified marketing officers. As a result the mill rises up day by day.

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CHAPTER 13

MAINTENANCE SECTION

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13.0 In Niagara Textile Ltd 3 types of maintenance are followed for both knitting and garmentssection-

1. Break down maintenance2. Routine maintenance3. Preventive maintenance

13.1 Maintenance Procedure of Different Machine:

13.1.1 Dyeing Machine:

Maintenance: Mechanical

Items need to be checked & Service

Grease the Winch bearing.

Complete cleaning of machine.

Cleaning of drain valves, replace scale if required.

Checking air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain scales.

Cleaning filter element and blow out.

Greasing the unloading roller bearings.

Checking oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox.

Checking of unloading roller couple and packing.

Checking and cleaning of main vessel level indicator.

Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.

Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves.

Check all belts and belt tension.

13.1.2 Squeezer Machine:


Items need to be checked & service

Grease padded bearing & expender device unit by Staburg NBU.

Complete cleaning of m/c.

Checking oil level and bolts of unloading roller gear box.

Check oil level of hydraulic system.

Check all belts, all chain and belt tension.

Check gear box plotting and its oil.

Check main line air pressure and air pressure gauge.

Check pneumatic belts, brushes, if required tight them properly.

Check in feed motor.

Check squeeze roller hydraulic cylinder.

Check turn table, belt tension, and gearing.

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13.1.3 Dryer Machine:


Items need to be checked & service

Clean filter net of the machine.

Clean hot air ducting of the machine.

Burner blower impeller cleaning.

Complete cleaning of the m/c.

Greasing of all the bearing.

Conveyor net checking & repairing if required.

Inside chamber all fiber rail checking.

Cleaning of all nozzles with compressed air

Over feed roller rubbing gripping tape checking.

All gear box oil level checking.

Exit conveyor checking properly & repair if required.

Plaiter checking.

13.1.4 Tube Compactor:


Items to be checked & service

Check & clean fluff & dirt at all motors fan covers.

Clean panels, vs. cards & inverter by using compressed air.

Check Photocell & adjust if required.

Check all safety limit switches.

Check all on/off & emergency switches.

Check all indicating lamps.

Check steam solenoids.

Check all circuit breakers, magnetic contractors & relays.

Visual inspection of all control & power cables.

Check all motor terminals.

Check the potentiometer of main speed.

Check temperature controllers of cylinder.

Check compensator for speed synchronization of 1st & 2nd cylinder.

Check carbon brash for 1st & 2nd cylinder heating system.

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13.1.5 Boiler:


Items need to be checked & serviced

Check and clean fluff & dart at all machine.

Feed pump servicing.

Main boiler servicing.

Check all temperature & pressure gauge meter.

Check gas strainer.

Clean gauge glass & change if required.

Clean feed tank.

Clean fire tube.

Clean all safety valves.

Check all steam valves.

Check all gas regulators.

Auto blow down operation check.

13.2 Boiler chemicals:

Boiler water treatment chemicals are for scale, corrosion, inhibitor, oxygen scavenger,

sludge, and conditioner.

Geonex-1710

1 Littre chemical in 10 L waterDozing time: 24 hours

13.3 Generator chemicals:

Bm solution CL 651 BGATNon oxidizing biocideManufacturer- i-chem solution sdn Bhd,Malaysia

Bm solution CL 925 BGAT

Bm solution CL 456 BGATPolymer baseScale & corrosion inhibitorManufacturer- i-chem solution sdn Bhd,Malaysia

Bm solution CT 762 BGAToxidizing biocideManufacturer- i-chem solution sdn Bhd,,Malaysia.

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CHAPTER 14

UTILITY SECTION

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14.0 Utility Services:- Water- Electricity- Steam- Gas- Compress air

14.1 Water treatment plant:

Capacity: 6500 L/HourRaw water consists of different types of foreign materials such as iron, oily substanceetc.Water is treated to remove those foreign materials & to make it soft & to maintain thewater hardness level 1-3 ppm.

Reserve tank

Ground water

Activated Carbon

Pebble Cationic resin

Stone filter

Pump

Fig: Basic diagram of WTP

A. Ground water is stored in a tank & then flowed in cationic resin tank by pump forremoving hardness.

B. Water then flowed into another tank which consists of three layers-stone, pebbles,carbon. Stone filter helps to remove iron, sand, floating substance. Carbon filterhelps to remove order, N2, CO2, oil etc.

14.2 Regeneration: Salt is used in every 6 month.

14.3 Generator:

Gas power GeneratorBrand: MWMOrigin: GermanyQuantity: 01Capacity: 1319 KW

Gas power Generator

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Brand: CaterpillarOrigin: USAModel: 3412Year: 2006Quantity: 01Capacity: 360 KWVolts: 400AMPS: 649Diesel Power Generator:Brand: PH PEM, AC SYNCHRONOUS GENERATOROrigin: ChinaModel: ST-10Quantity: 01Capacity: 10 KWVolts: 220AMPS: 45.5

14.4 Compressor:

Brand Origin Capacity QuantityBoge Germany 10 bar 01Kaeser Germany 11 KW 01Dalgakiran Turquiye 35 KW 01

14.5 Boiler:For dyeing-Name: DAELIM ROYAL BOILERType: Full bore, Turbo, Smoke type, 3 pass and Fire tube package boilerModel: DL –Z1000Capacity: 10,248 kg/hourActual evaporation: 10,000 kg/hourDesign pressure: 1 MPaHeat efficiency: 90%Fuel consumption: 70 kg/hourHeating surface: 195 m2

Manufacture date: 2009-6Manufacture no: 2009-5-0114Power: 30 KWLine voltage: 400Blow down per day: 3Feed water temperature: 55/60 0C

14.6 For Garments:

Gauge pressure( kg/cm2 )

Steam temperature(0C)

1 1202 1333 1434 1515 1586 1647 1708 1759 17910 183

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Brand: DragonCapacity: 200 kg/hourOrigin: Bangladesh

14.7 Effluent treatment plant (ETP)

Brand: CITACountry of origin: IndiaCapacity: 20 m3

Method of effluent treatment may be classified broadly into three main categories:1. Physical: Physical treatment involves adsorption, sedimentation, floatation,

flocculation, coagulation, reverse osmosis/ultra filtration, incineration etc.2. Chemical: Chemical treatment method involves neutralization, reduction, oxidation,

electrolysis, ion exchange, etc.

3. Biological: Biological treatment method involves stabilization ponds, aerated lagoons,tricking filters, Activated sludge, anaerobic digestion, and bioagumentation.

There are four stages: preliminary, primary, secondary, and tertiary treatment processeswhich differ mainly by the number of operations performed on the waste streams.[

Description:1. Equalization tank consist of raw effluent. At the beginning raw effluent is led to the

mixing tank/ reaction tank by pumping.2. In reaction tank lime & ferrous sulphate are added with effluent. Here blower is used to

mix them.3. At the end of reaction tank solution is led to flocculation tank where polyelectrolyte is

added for further reaction.4. From the flocculation tank solution is drained to tube settler-1. Here sludge is divided &

placed in the sludge sump.5. After the operation of the tube settler -1 the solution is brought into pH control chamber

where HCL is mixed.6. After that solution is led to biological reaction tank. Here Di-ammonium phosphate &

urea is used.

7. Solution is led again to tube settler -2.

8. The cleaner effluent is passed through the filter feed tank to the sand filter & activated

carbon filter for final filtration. Then it is drained out.

9. Liquid sludge is collected from sludge sump & makes it inject into sludge thickening

tank.

10. In sludge thickening tank divination of raw sludge is occurred by centrifuge hydro

extractor & the filtrated liquid is led to the Equalization tank for further processing.

11. The centrifuge hydro extractor is used to convert the sludge into cake which later broughtto the air

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CHAPTER 15

COMPLIANCE

15.0 Compliance

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Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate workingcondition for their employees. Though it is well established project, there is some lacking ofproper compliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintainedfully and some are partially.

Compensation for holiday Sexual harassment policy Child labor abolition policy Anti-Discrimination policy Zero abusement policy Working hour policy Hiring /recruitment policy Security policy Buyers code of conduct Health & safety committee Canteen National Festival holiday Weekly holiday fund Time care Overtime register Leave with wages

15.1 Health:

Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee Cup availability Drinking water supply Drinking water signs in bangle & English locate min. 20 feet away from work place Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week Water center in charge person with cleanliness Suggestion box register

15.2 Toilet:

Separate toilet for women and men A seat with proper privacy and lock facility Effective water sewage system Soap toilet Water tap Dust bin Daily cleaning log sheet No-smoking signs Ladies/gents toilet signs both in bangle and English

15.3 Fire:

Sufficient fire extinguisher and active

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Access area without hindrance Fire signs in both languages Fire certified personal photo Emergency exit

15.4 Safety Guard:

Metal glows in good conditions Rubber mats & ironers First air box one First trained employees Eye guard Doctor Medicine Welfare officer

15.5 Others:

Room temperature Lighting facilities

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CHAPTER 16

CONCLUSION

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16.0 Conclusion:

I have completed my Industrial Training successfully by the grace of Almighty.

Industrial Attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. “NIAGARA Textiles

Ltd.”. is a well know factory in the Textile field of Bangladesh. The completion of the two

months industrial attachment at this industry gave me the inspiration that factory is one of the

appropriate destiny to implement the theoretical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this industrial

training taught me lot about latest textile technology, various production processes, modern

textile machineries, their use, functions. I am also get familiar with the industrial

management. It made me comfortable to industrial life. Besides it gave my first opportunity

to work in industry atmosphere. All these will be very helpful to enrich my knowledge; to

increase my experience, skill & above all my future industrial job life.

“NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” Is well equipped and the working environment is excellent. The

relation between top management to bottom level is so nice. I am very lucky to get

opportunity having training in this mill. The factory runs by a number of efficient Textile

Engineers, Skilled technical & non-technical person. All the Textile Engineers, technical &

non-technical person are very sincere, co-operative and helpful. I wish good luck of them and

also for this factory.

16.1 Findings

Wonderful understanding between the top level management and the other employees

and operators. Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it

minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this

industrial training taught me a lot about textile technology, production processes,

textile machineries, industrial management, and made us comfortable to industrial

life. Besides it gave me the first opportunity to work in industry.

16.2 Limitations

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Because of secrecy act, the data of costing and marketing activities and yearly

turnover have not been supplied.

I had a very limited time. In spite of willingness to study in more details it was not

possible to do so.

Some of the points in different chapters are not include as these were not available.

It is not possible to in compass the whole process in such a small frame as this report

16.3 Suggestions

Some automatic machines for dyeing lab, production and QC inspection should be

there.

Some of single jersey machine and Rib machine needed to be replaced with a new one

as there efficiency are between (35-40) %, which reducing the target production.

Supervisor or floor in-charge did not properly follow the program. So sometimes

operators deviate from the set procedure which may hamper the quality of the

product.

During the transport of fabric and the loading of fabric in the machine, fabrics are

soiled by the contact with floor. This makes the fabric dirty. It may require more

scouring and bleaching agent or may create stain.

Workers should be more sincere during fabric spreading as it is seems that fabric strip

didn’t match in different layer of same lay in case of striped fabric.

Due to shortage of operator or absence of the operator of a particular part, new

operator needed to hire from the other line. This hampers production of both lines

every day.

Industrial attachment of niagara textile ltd

Engineering

Transcript of Industrial attachment of niagara textile ltd