Dining,Wining, and Clubbing An in-the-know guide to some of BAli’s Best plAces At the Best time, writes Samantha Coomber

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Since 1993, a Seminyak inStitution for itS fine-

dining in quintessential rustic Balinese surrounds, La LuccioLa’s open-sided, double-storey thatched pavilion—beach-fronting on coconut palm-fringed Petitenget Beach and neighbouring an ancient temple—contrasts with the contemporary Italian cuisine and impeccable service. Weekend brunches are a must (try the home-made pastries), but “La Looch” best shines at sunset: sip a Prosecco cocktail in the refined Frangipani Lounge, then dine on the breezy upper terrace, surveying crashing surf, for romantic sunset dining. Fellow diners included David Bowie and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, declaring this, “his best Bali experience.” With its intimate candlelit space and petite street-side terrace, Sip Wine Bar evokes a typical French brasserie. Helmed by a Parisian Chef de Cuisine cooking traditional French fare, it is a little corner of Paris, with a formidable brasserie-type menu and classics, like French Onion Soup, Peppercorn Steak (all beef organic 45-day dry aged), and Terrine de Foie Gras “Maison”. Reasonably priced, considering the premium-imported ingredients, the Prix Fixe set menus are of exceptional value. Note the name: arguably Indonesia’s most sophisticated wine bar, with 200-plus different wines, 6,000 bottles in stock, and Sip’s founder-director, Christian Vanneque, France’s youngest ‘Chef Sommelier’ in the 1970s, imparting wine wisdom.

Hidden within Seminyak’s One Eleven Villas compound, Shiro transports you to downtown Osaka to which in-the-know diners can attest. In Bali’s sole authentic Sushi-Sake Bar, again, distinctive surrounds—

dining cuLturecLockWiSe from aBove La Cucciola sprawls across a manicured piece of land overlooking the beach; Sip Wine Bar's interior; guests taking in the Sip Wine Bar experience

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teak minimalist interiors by famed Shigemasa Noi—match the divine sushi, sashimi, and other select Japanese dishes. Pricey stuff but reflecting freshest, premium fish flown-in and Chef Hiroki Mimaki’s cutting-edge skills; watch this Osaka maestro’s executions at the sushi bar. Omakase Sets (recommended menus) help the uninitiated, as do several Sakes from an extensive collection. Seating a maximum of 20, book ahead.

Unassuming down a side-street, this sweet, gastro-atelier, helmed by Roman chef-owner Luigi Calcagno dishes-up traditional Italian cuisine. ZiBiru serves not only rustic homecooking with made-from-scratch fresh pastas, organic produce, and fine Italian wines that lure the Italian community, but also less well-known regional recipes (note the pizza-free zone), which few restaurants serve, such as Umbrian gnocchi norcina. White timbered, handcrafted interiors charm, but dine on the open-air, upper mezzanine terrace, illuminated by white lanterns. Zibiru goes upbeat Wednesday and Saturday nights, with live Jazz in the garden.

get the party started

BarBacoa means “barbecue”: apt for this muy caliente restaurant-bar, serving genuine Latin American-inspired dishes—from Spain, Argentina, Peru, and Mexico—modernised and made for sharing. Overseen by an Australian chef from London’s legendary Nobu, Barbacoa is loco for grill and barbecue dishes, including signature Argentinean “Asado” wood-fired meats, from sizzling open grills. With an infectious (yet refined) South American vibe, the vast dining floor is group-friendly, out on the terrace or mezzanine private

iSLand adventurethiS page from topInside Shiro; Zibiru's rooftop terrace; Barbacoa's rice paddy views

oppoSite page from topCharlie Bali Bistro; grilled sardines by Charlie Bali Bistro

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dining room overlooking rice fields. Things get fiesta-like later at the sociable bar, with killer Tequilas and Margaritas—beware the spicy Jalapeño Margarita!

Who is charLie? He’s classic European, yet “underground hip”, debonair but never dull. This private member’s club-like mansion welcomes with downstairs neo-retro Parisian bistro and upstairs bar-lounge, evoking Berlin cabaret-style. French Chef Damien Le Bihan, formerly of three Michelin-starred Guy Savoy, creates magnifique rustic French dishes with modern twists, without denting your hip pocket. Book his bespoke, amazing value “Chefs Table Dinner” in the secret chamber behind fake bookshelves. Curated cocktails are chilled with ice-cubes hand-cut by ice saws from a displayed block. Charlie reveals a

more hedonistic side with DJ party sessions and occasional, “Bordello Nights.”

Shanty chic La faveLa pays homage to Brazil’s urban shantytowns: its cavernous sections eclectically cluttered and organised in pure favela-like chaos. Latino, South American, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes range from Peruvian Ceviche and Barramundi in Creole sauce to Tapas. Order Tequilas from the Tequilleria housed in a disused VW Combi van. Favela’s buzzy rear section reveals an Amazon rainforest wonderland with mini-waterfall and three spectacular private dining rooms, exquisitively decorated Mexicana-style. Post-dinner, DJ sounds, and occasional parties bring the house down (literally) in the timbered front bar.

Who is Charlie? He’s classic European, yet “underground hip”, debonair but never dull

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