House & Garden Feb 14 Rococo

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    update . outside interests . uut and aboutFROM CANVAS TO CLOTHJessica Doyle looks at twofabric houses that areworking with artists to create innouatiue collections,and prouides a round-up of other news and eaents

    ver since the fauvist painter Raoul Dufydesigned textiles for the French fashiondesigner Paul Poiret in the early twenti-eth century, fashion and fabric houses

    have turned to art and artists as a way to add anextra edge to their collections. Recently, this hasbecome something of atrend - so much sothattheFashion and Textile Museum willopen an exhibitionon the subject, Artist lextiles, at the end ofJanuary.ln addition, two British fabric houses havereleased collections that show how technologicaladvances in printing have made it possible totranslate ever more faithfully an artist's brush-strokes on to cotton, linen and silk.

    Lewis & Wood has worked with a number ofartists in the past, including wood engraverAndrew Davidson and equine artist JoTaylor, and recently launched theRococo collection by Melissa. White,

    BELOW Chair andcurtain in'Rococo'linen by Melissa White,from Lewis & Wood,RIGHT'Breathe' linenand wallcovering,by Jessica Zoobfor Black Edition

    Romo has gone astep further with the

    new collection for itsBlack Edition brand. Havingspotted the work of abstract land-

    scape painter Jessica Zoob at an exhibition a fewyears ago, the company came up with the idea ofreproducing her paintings f iril-size on three-metre-wide fabric panels, as well as printed on linen and. velvet bythe metre, and cushions.- Again, texture is a key element of Jessica'simpressionist style, and it was this - along with thefocus on nature in her work - that appealed toRomo. Justas we'reconstantly inspired by naturebdelicacy of form, Jessica's enthusiastic layering ofpaint allows herto express natureb vibrant textures

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    order to give the impression of pati-nation and age; the aim of the fabrichouse was to recreate a design thatshe had painted on broken plaster usingvelvet, linen and pearlised metallic wallpaper.

    For managing director Stephen Lewis, theappeal of an artist-designed fabric lies in theapproach. A textile designer will always be thinkingabout the market and what will sell,' he says,'so, forus, it's interesting to work with someone whobrings a different approach. ltb the equivalent ofusing fresh ingredients in cooking, rather thanprocessed goods - you get a more zesty flavour.'

    Melissa is currently collaborating again withLewis & Wood, along with fellow painters FloraRoberts and Su Daybell, to create English Ethnic, afloral-inspired collection due for release in March.

    so beautifully,'says design director Emily Mould.For Jessica, the project not only allows her to

    expose her work to a wider audience, but alsoexpanded the possibilities of her paintings. 'The coFour representation is spectacular; I've been amazedbythe samples,'she enthuses.'The collection has atimeless feelto it - it almost looks a bit vintage, butin a charming way. You could use it in a cosy coftageor a New York loft. A lot of textile design is fashion-led, but because this collection has come frompaintings, I don't think it fits into any trend. l'mhoping these designs will buck the trends andbecome something that people will keep for ever.'Leu's 6 Wood: 01453-878517; www.lewisandwood.co.uk I Black Edition: 01623-756699;www.romoblack.com>

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