HOURS / TOTAL TERM PROGRAMME V DIPLOMA IN … Technology/PDF/V Team.pdf · 7 Theory and problems of...

26
V-1 DETAILED SYLLABUS Major Divisions UNIT I : MOISTURE AND ITS RELATIONS IN TEXTILES UNIT II : FIBRE TESTING UNIT III : YARN TESTING UNIT IV : FABRIC TESTING UNIT V : STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL UNIT- I MOISTURE AND ITS RELATIONS IN TEXTILES (20 HRS) Humidity and its importance in Textiles-Definitions of Absolute Humidity, Relative Humidity. Standard Testing atmospheric condition. Measurement of Humidity - Wet and dry bulb Hygrometer. Definition of Moisture content, Moisture regains. Estimation of moisture content and regain using Conditioning oven and Shirley Moisture meter. Standard regain – Definition, standard regain values of cotton, viscose, silk, wool, nylon and polyester. Effect of moisture regain on fibre properties UNIT -II FIBRE TESTING (19 HRS) Length –Importance of fibre length. Definition of effective length. Methods of measuring fibre length by Baer Sorter and Digital Fibro graph. Fibre fineness - importance of fibre fineness - Methods of measuring fibre fineness by heffield micronaire instrument. Fibre maturity – Importance, measurement of fibre maturity by sodium hydroxide swelling method. Maturity ratio and Maturity coefficient. Fibre strength- Importance and method of measuring fibre strength by stelometer. Estimation of trash content by Shirley Trash Analyser. Fibre Quality Index. Brief idea about High volume instrument and Advanced Fibre Information System (AFIS) UNIT -III YARN TESTING (19 HRS) Yarn count – Determination of yarn count by auto sorter and beesley balance. Importance of CSP and RKM. Importance of Twist - Estimation of yarn twist – single yarn – doubled yarn. Importance of yarn strength. Principle of working of yarn strength tester – CRE, CRL and CRT. Working of single yarn strength tester - lea strength tester and principle of Instron tester. Yarn irregularities – thick, thin, slub, nep. Methods of Assessing yarn evenness by yarn appearance board and Uster Evenness Tester. Brief study of Uster classimate UNIT – IV FABRIC TESTING (19 HRS) Crimp-Definition. Importance – Shirley crimp tester. Study of Shirley stiffness tester and Shirley crease recovery tester. Definition of fabric handle, serviceability, abrasion pilling and drape. Importance of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength and bursting strength. Study of fabric tensile strength tester. Definition of Fabric Air Permeability and Fabric Air Resistance UNIT – V STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL (19 HRS) Classification and Tabulation of Data - Frequency Diagram – Histogram and frequency polygon. Measures of Central tendency - Mean, Median, Mode. Measures of deviation - Mean Deviation, Percent Mean Deviation, Standard Deviation and Co- efficient of variation. Normal distribution curve and its properties. Tests of significance - 't' test for Mean only. Quality Control Chart -Construction of control chart for Averages and Ranges. TERM PROGRAMME HOURS / WEEK TOTAL HOURS V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 6 96 COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM MARKS MIN. MARKS FOR PASS M7GT306 TEXTILE TESTING 75 30

Transcript of HOURS / TOTAL TERM PROGRAMME V DIPLOMA IN … Technology/PDF/V Team.pdf · 7 Theory and problems of...

Page 1: HOURS / TOTAL TERM PROGRAMME V DIPLOMA IN … Technology/PDF/V Team.pdf · 7 Theory and problems of Statistics ... Reactive dyes and vat dyes- Dyeing of wool with basic dyes ... Finishing

V-1

DETAILED SYLLABUS

Major Divisions

UNIT I : MOISTURE AND ITS RELATIONS IN TEXTILES

UNIT II : FIBRE TESTING

UNIT III : YARN TESTING

UNIT IV : FABRIC TESTING

UNIT V : STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL

UNIT- I MOISTURE AND ITS RELATIONS IN TEXTILES (20 HRS)

Humidity and its importance in Textiles-Definitions of Absolute Humidity,

Relative Humidity. Standard Testing atmospheric condition. Measurement of Humidity -

Wet and dry bulb Hygrometer. Definition of Moisture content, Moisture regains.

Estimation of moisture content and regain using Conditioning oven and Shirley Moisture

meter. Standard regain – Definition, standard regain values of cotton, viscose, silk, wool,

nylon and polyester. Effect of moisture regain on fibre properties

UNIT -II FIBRE TESTING (19 HRS)

Length –Importance of fibre length. Definition of effective length. Methods of

measuring fibre length by Baer Sorter and Digital Fibro graph. Fibre fineness -

importance of fibre fineness - Methods of measuring fibre fineness by heffield micronaire

instrument. Fibre maturity – Importance, measurement of fibre maturity by sodium

hydroxide swelling method. Maturity ratio and Maturity coefficient. Fibre strength-

Importance and method of measuring fibre strength by stelometer. Estimation of

trash content by Shirley Trash Analyser. Fibre Quality Index. Brief idea about High

volume instrument and Advanced Fibre Information System (AFIS)

UNIT -III YARN TESTING (19 HRS)

Yarn count – Determination of yarn count by auto sorter and beesley balance.

Importance of CSP and RKM. Importance of Twist - Estimation of yarn twist – single

yarn – doubled yarn. Importance of yarn strength. Principle of working of yarn strength

tester – CRE, CRL and CRT. Working of single yarn strength tester - lea strength tester

and principle of Instron tester. Yarn irregularities – thick, thin, slub, nep. Methods of

Assessing yarn evenness by yarn appearance board and Uster Evenness Tester. Brief

study of Uster classimate

UNIT – IV FABRIC TESTING (19 HRS) Crimp-Definition. Importance – Shirley crimp tester. Study of Shirley stiffness

tester and Shirley crease recovery tester. Definition of fabric handle, serviceability,

abrasion pilling and drape. Importance of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength and

bursting strength. Study of fabric tensile strength tester. Definition of Fabric Air

Permeability and Fabric Air Resistance

UNIT – V STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL (19 HRS)

Classification and Tabulation of Data - Frequency Diagram – Histogram and

frequency polygon. Measures of Central tendency - Mean, Median, Mode. Measures

of deviation - Mean Deviation, Percent Mean Deviation, Standard Deviation and Co-

efficient of variation. Normal distribution curve and its properties. Tests of significance -

't' test for Mean only. Quality Control Chart -Construction of control chart for Averages

and Ranges.

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 6 96

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT306 TEXTILE TESTING 75 30

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TEXT BOOKS

S.No Titile Authors Publisher Year

1 Hand Book of Textile

Testing and quality

Control

E.B.Groover and

D.S.Hamby

MohinderSingh

Sejwal (for Wiley Eastern

Ltd

New Delhi, India

1960

2

Hand Book of Methods

of

Test for Cotton Fibers

Yarn

V.Sundaram and

R.L.N.Iyengar

CTRL.,Mumbai 1988

3 ISI Hand book of

Textile

Testing

Indian Standard Institution,

New Delhi, India

1982

REFERENCE

S.No T i t l e A u t h o r s Publisher Year

1 Principles of Textile

Testing

J.E. BOOTH Butterworth Scientific London 1996

2

The Characteristics of

Raw Cotton Vol II Part-

I in the series manual of

Cotton Spinning

E.Lord The Textile Institute and

Butterworth, England

1961

3 Methods of Test for

Textiles–B.S.Handbook B.S.I

British Standards

Institution, London, England

1963

4 Method of Test for

Textiles B.S.Hand book

No:11 B.S.I

British Standards

Institution, London, England

1963

5 Statistical methods Gupta S.Chand & Co, New Delhi 1983

6 An Outline of statistical

methods Textile

Industry

A.Brearley

& D.R.Cox

WIRA, LEEDS,U.K. 1974

7 Theory and problems of

Statistics M.R.Spiegel

McGraw Hill, International Book

Company. Newyork, London

1972

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V-3

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - 1

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : TEXTILE TESTING Coursecode : M7GT306

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 questions.

1. Define the term-Moisture regain.

2. What is the use of hygrometer?

3. Mention few importance of humidity.

4. Define the standard testing atmosphere

5. Define the term-Effective length.

6. What is the fineness of fibre?

7. Define maturity ratio.

8. What do you mean by Fibre Quality Index?

9. Define yarn count

10. Mention few importance of CSP

11. What do you mean by CRE and CRL

12. What is Nep?

13. Mention few importance of crimp

14. Define fabric handle

15. What do you mean by abrasion pilling

16. Define drape

17. What do you know about Frequency Diagram

18. Define standard deviation

19. Mention any two properties of normal distribution curve.

20. What is quality control chart?

PART B

Note : Answer all Questions Marks 5 × 12 = 60

21a). How would you measure the relative humidity using Wet & Dry bulb hygrometer?

Explain with a neat sketch.

(Or)

b). With a sketch, explain the method of estimating moisture content and regain

by using conditioning Oven.

22a) Explain with a sketch, the method of measuring fibre fineness by using

micronaire Instrument.

(Or)

b) Describe the sodium hydroxide swelling method of determining fibre maturity

23.a) With a neat sketch, explain the method of estimating single yarn twist.

(Or)

b). Describe with a sketch, the method of assessing yarn evenness by using yarn

appearance boards.

24.a). With a neat sketch, explain the working of Shirley crimp tester

(Or)

B )Explain with a neat sketch the working of crease recovery tester

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V-4

25. a). A filament yarn was tested for strength before and after a chemical. Treatment

In each case, ten specimens were tested and the following results were obtained:

Untreated filament Treated filament

Number of tests 10 10

Mean strength(gm) 295 271

Standard deviation 8 12

Is there sufficient evidence to show that the chemical treatment has already weakened the

filament?

Given: t= 2.101 at 5% level

= 2.878 at 1% level

(Or)

b). Construct the control charts for mean and range for the following lea strength result and

State your conclusion.

Lea strength in lbs

Cone

no

1 2 3 4

1 34.5 33.0 33.5 34.0

2 30.5 36.0 33.5 33.0

3 33.0 33.0 35.5 37.0

4 39.5 37.0 33.5 32.5

5 32.0 34.5 35.5 32.0

6 33.0 35.0 34.5 34.0

7 31.0 35.0 34.5 34.0

8 30.0 30.0 32.5 34.0

9 31.5 33.0 36.0 32.5

10 32.5 35.0 34.5 32.5

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V-5

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : TEXTILE TESTING Coursecode : M7GT306

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 questions.

1. Define the term moisture content

2. Mention few importance of humidity in textiles

3. Define absolute humidity

4. What do you mean by relative humidity

5. Mention few importance fibre length

6. What are the importance of fibre fineness

7. What do you mean byAFIS

8. What is meant by maturity of cotton fibres?

9. What are the importance of RKM

10. Write the principle of Instron tester

11. What are the importance of yarn strength

12. What do you mean by CRT

13. Define the term crimp.

14. Define the term serviceability

15. Mention few importance of fabric tensile strength

16. Define fabric air resistance

17. Define the term mean.

18. What is the purpose of frequency polygon

19. Define term median

20. What is the use of tests of significance

PART B Marks 5 × 12 = 60

Note : Answer all Questions

21.a) Explain how would you estimate moisture content and regain by using

Conditioning oven

(Or)

b) Mention standard regain values for cotton, viscose, silk, wool, nylon and

polyester. Also explain the effect of moisture regain on fibre properties.

22.a) With a neat sketch explain the method of measuring fibre length using Baer sorter

(Or)

b) With a neat sketch, explain the method of determining fibre strength

by using stelometer

23.a) Explain with a neat sketch the working of single yarn strength tester.

(Or)

b) With a neat sketch explain the working of uster eveness tester.

24.a ) Draw a neat sketch and explain the working of stiffness tester.

(Or)

b)With illustration, explain the working method of Fabric tearing strength tester.

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V-6

25. a) Two filament yarns, each of same counts were r=tested for single yarn Strength and the

following result were obtained.

YARN-I YARN-II

No.of.test 30 30

Mean strength(gm) 284 282

Standard deviation 10.98 20.49

Is there a real difference between the strength?

Given: t=1.96 at 5% level, t = 2.58 at 1% level

(Or)

b). Draw mean and range chart from the following data collected from a mill and state your

conclusion.

Sample no

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Sample mean

12.8 13.1 13.5 12.9 13.2 14.2 12.1 15.5 13.9 14.2

Sample range 2.1 3.1 3.9 2.1 1.9 3.0 2.5 2.8 2.5 2.0

Given: n=4 A2=0.729 D3=0 D4=2.282

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V-7

DETAILED SYLLABUS

Major Divisions

UNIT I : PREPARATORY AND BLEACHING PROCESSES

UNIT II : DYEING PROCESS

UNIT III : PRINTING PROCESS

UNIT IV : FINISHING PROCESS

UNIT V : QUALITY AND POLLUTION CONTROLS

UNIT- I PREPARATORY AND BLEACHING PROCESSES (20HRS)

Impurities present in grey cotton and cotton fabric, sequence of wet processing

treatments, singeing - Object - Gas Singeing Machine for woven fabric with line diagram,

desizing - Object - Continuous desizing method and its merits- Enzyme desizing. Scouring

- Object -Process of caustic scouring using high pressure kier-Bleaching –Object–

Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching- Continuous scouring and bleaching using J Box with

line diagram –Optical Brightening Agent treatment

UNIT- II DYEING PROCESS (19HRS)

Classification of dyes based on their mode of application - Dyeing of cotton with –

Reactive dyes and vat dyes- Dyeing of wool with basic dyes - Dyeing of silk with basic

dyes - Dyeing of Polyester with Disperse dyes - Dyeing machines – Winch, Jigger, HTHP

Beam Dyeing, Soft flow Jet dyeing, Sancoward dyeing machines- Working of Soft flow jet

dyeing machines, HTHP Beam dyeing machine.

UNIT- III PRINTING PROCESS (19 HRS)

Comparison between dyeing and printing - Styles and methods of printing-

Ingredients of printing paste. Direct style of printing with pigments on cotton -

Direct style of Printing with reactive dyes on cotton - Direct style of printing with disperse

dyes on polyester -Brief style of Batik style, tie & dye, Kalamkari and Ikkat on cotton.

Steps in Screen preparation – Study of printing techniques- Flat bed,

Rotary, Digital ink jet- Curing machine -steamer

UNIT- IV FINISHING PROCESS (19HRS)

Finishing Treatment- Advantages - Finishing of cotton fabric with

stiffeners (Starch, PVA, Polyvinyl Acetate) -softeners (Anionic, Cationic and non-ionic)-

wrinkle free finish- Sanforizing –Silicon finishing- Mercerisation – Objects, Advantages

– Types of Mercerizing machines -Chain & Chainless - Calendaring - Hot air Stenters-

Compacting. Special finishes -Brief study on antimicrobial finish, UV protective finish-

water repellent finish-Flame retardant finish.

UNIT- V QUALITY AND POLLUTION CONTROLS (19HRS) Importance of Quality Control - Determination of wash fastness - Wet and Dry

rubbing fastness - Light fastness testing to day light only – Study of Computer colour

matching. Importance and need of environment protection - Air, water and noise pollution

- Constituents of air, water and noise pollutants with respect to textile industry. Brief

study on effluent treatment with a suitable plant layout (Process flow chart only) Brief

study on eco-friendly processing - Eco label.

TERM PROGRAMME

HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT

TECHNOLOGY 6 96

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMU

M MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT307 TEXTILE WET PROCESSING 75 30

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V-8

Text Book:

Title Author Publisher Year

Technology of Textile

Processing Vol.3

Technology of Bleaching

Shenai V.A. Shevak Publications

Mumbai-37 1981

Technology of Textile

Processing, Vol.6

Technology of Dyeing

Shenai V.A. Shevak Publications

Mumbai - 37 1980

Technology of Textile

Processing, Vol.4

Technology of Printing

Shenai V.A. Shevak Publications

Mumbai - 37 1979

Technology of Textile

Processing,Vol.10

Technology of Finishing

Shenai V.A. Shevak Publications

Mumbai-37 1987

Reference:

Title Author Publisher Year

Technology of Textile

Processing, Vol.2

Chemistry of dyes &

Principles of dyeing

Shenai V.A. Shevak Publications

Mumbai-37 1983

Textile Printing Miles L.W.C. Society of Dyers &

Colourist

West Yarksh ire, England

An Introduction to Textile

Finishing

Marsh J.T. B.I.Publications

Delhi 110001

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V-9

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - 1

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : TEXTILE WET PROCESSING Coursecode : M7GT307

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 questions.

1. Mention the impurities Present in Grey Cotton.

2. What is singing?

3. What is the object of De-sizing?

4. Define Full Bleaching.

5. What is Hot brand Reactive Dye?

6. Define insoluble Dyes.

7. Mention the steps involved in Vat dyes with cotton.

8. Give the advantages of Soft flow Dyeing machines.

9. Give the principle of Discharge Printing.

10. Mention the ingredients of Printing Paste?

11. What is the Object of Curing?

12. What is Batik Printing?

13. What is Wrinkle free finish?

14. Give the advantages of calendaring.

15. What is compacting?

16. What is Mercerization Treatment?

17. Give the Object of Wash Fastness Test.

18. Write the Primary Treatment in Effluent Treatment.

19. List out few names of Banned chemicals.

20. What are different types of Environment pollution?

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions

21.a) Explain the continuous de-sizing process with a neat sketch.

(Or)

b) Explain in detail the Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching

22.a) Explain the Dyeing procedure of cotton with Reactive dyes

(Or)

b) Explain with neat sketch the working of soft flow Jet Dyeing machine.

23. a).Explain the printing of cotton with pigments in direct style.

(Or)

b).Explain with neat sketch the working of Rotary printing machine.

24.a) Explain in detail the working of chainless fabric mercerizing machine.

(Or)

b) Write notes on i) Anti-microbial finish ii)Water repellent finish

25.a) Elaborate on the importance and need of Environment protection.

(Or)

b) Explain the Effluent treatment process with suitable plant layout.

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V-10

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : TEXTILE WET PROCESSING Course code : M7GT307

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 questions.

1. What are the uses of OBA?

2. Mention the advantages of enzyme De-sizing.

3. What is Scouring?

4. Give the merits of continuous process.

5. Define soluble dyes.

6. Give the classification of Reactive Dyes.

7. Write the After Treatment for Cotton Reactive Dyeing .

8. What is HTHP Dyeing?

9. What is the use of Thickener in Printing Paste?

10. Give the advantages of Steamer.

11. What do you mean by IKKAT

12. Compare Dyeing & Printing.

13. What is sanforization?

14. List the advantages of Mercerization.

15. Define Flame Retardant Finish.

16. What is UV protective finish?

17. Write the importance of Quality control in Wet Processing.

18. What are the advantages of computer color matching?

19. What is Eco label?

20. Give the Constituents of Air Pollution.

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions

21. a) Explain with neat sketch the working of Gas singeing machine?

(Or)

b) Explain with neat sketch the scouring of cotton fabric in a high pressure kier.

22 a) Explain the method of dyeing cotton with Vat dye

(Or)

b) Explain with neat sketch the working of HTHP Beam dyeing machine

23 a) Explain the method of Printing Polyester with Disperse Dyes in Direct style

(Or)

b) Explain with neat sketch the working of Flat bed screen Printing

24.a) Write notes on i) Wrinkle free finish ii) Stiffener & softener Finish

(Or)

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V-11

b) Explain with neat sketch the method of finishing fabric using Hot air Stenters

25 a) How will you determine the color fastness of dyed fabric to washing and Rubbing?

Explain.

(Or)

b) Write notes on i) Eco friendly Processing ii) Effluent treatment

DETAILED SYLLABUS

Major Divisions

UNIT I : PATTERN DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN’S WEAR

UNIT II : PATTERN DRAFTING FOR LADIES’ WEAR-I

UNIT III : PATTERN DRAFTING FOR LADIES’ WEAR-II

UNIT IV : PATTERN GRADING, FITTING & ALTERATION

UNIT V : PATTERN DRAFTING FOR MEN’S WEAR

UNIT I - PATTERN DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN’S WEAR (16 HRS)

Pattern drafting procedure for Children’s Vest, Frock with Peter Pan collar Puff sleeve

& frilled skirt- Garara skirt- Divided skirt- Pattern layout-Calculation of material consumption –

Construction procedure.

UNIT II - PATTERN DRAFTING FOR LADY’S WEAR I (16 HRS)

Pattern drafting procedure for Cut Choli- Brassiere-Sari petticoat –6panels- Straight

jacket with front open and Leg-o-mutton sleeve - Pattern layout-Calculation of material

consumption - Construction procedure.

UNIT III - PATTERN DRAFTING FOR LADY’S WEAR II (16 HRS)

Pattern drafting procedure for Night dress with Front full opening and shawl collar -

Surwar on bias cutting-Full Maxi with Magyar sleeve- Nehru’s Kurtha with Chinese - mandarin

collar – Pattern layout- Calculation of material consumption - Construction procedure.

UNIT IV - PATTERN GRADING, FITTING & ALTERATION (16 HRS)

Pattern grading procedure for bodice front, back & sleeve-Variables for fitting-

Importance of altering patterns-General principles for pattern alteration- Study of fitting

problems and alterations in the following parts- Bust line- Neckline- Shoulder line-Arm hole-

Bodice back- Sleeves- Study of fitting problems and alterations in Trousers

UNIT V - PATTERN DRAFTING FOR MEN’S WEAR (16 HRS)

TERM PROGRAMME

HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT

TECHNOLOGY 5 80

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT206 PATTERN DRAFTING AND

CONSTRUCTION- II 75 30

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V-12

Pattern drafting procedure for Full sleeve shirt - Pleated trousers- Sherwani-Jeans- Pattern

layout- Calculation of material consumption -Construction procedure.

Text Book:

Title Author Publisher Year

The Art Of Sewing Anna Jacob

Thomas.

Ubs Publishers, Delhi. 2001

Practical Clothing

Constructions Part I & II

Mary Mathews Paprinpack

Printers,Chennai.

1982

Zarapkar System Of

Cutting.

K.R.Zarapkar Navneet Publications (I)

Ltd.,Dantali. Gujarat.

2005

Sew it Yourself Lippman (Gidon) Prentice Hall Inc

New Jersey

2002

Reference:

Comparative Clothing

Construction Techniques

Virginn Stolpe Surjeet Publications, 1985 Lewis Delhi

Scientific Garments

Cutting

K.M. Hedge K.M. Hedge&Sons.,

Poona

1998

Pattern Cutting For

Women’s Outer Wear

Gerry Cooklin BlackwellScience

Publication, London

2001

Metric Pattern Cutting Winfred Aldrich BlackwellScience

Publication, London

2003

Metric Pattern Cutting For

Children’s wear W e a r P u b l i

c a t i o n , Winfred

Aldrich

Blackwell Science

London

2004

Pattern grading for Mens’

Clothes

Gerry Cooklin BlackwellScience

Publication, London

2000

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V-13

P a t t e r n g r a d i n g for

Children’s Clothes

Gerry Cooklin BlackwellScience

Publication, London

1991

Pattern Grading for

womens’ Clothing

Gerry Cooklin BlackwellScience

Publication, London

2004

Step by Step Dress Leela Aitken BBC Books, London 1992

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : PATTERN DRAFTING AND Coursecode : M7GT206 CONSTRUCTION- II

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. Define pattern drafting.

2. Define pattern layout.

3. What is frill?

4. Mention the purpose of vest.

5. Mention the number of components in Brassiere.

6. What is cut choli?

7. What is leg-o- mutton sleeve?

8. What is shawl collar?

9. What is full maxi?

10. Define Nehru’s Kurtha.

11. Mention number of components in cut choli.

12. What is katori choli?

13. What is pattern grading?

14. What do you mean by pattern alteration?

15. List the variables for fitting

16. Define good fit.

17. How many pleats will you keep in front part of the pleated trouser?

18. What is the difference between pleated trouser and jeans?

19. Define Sherwani.

20. List the components for full sleeve shirt.

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions

21. a. Draft a pattern for children’s vest and calculate the required material

(Or)

b. Draft a pattern for Children’s Garara skirt and calculate the required material

22. a. Write the stitching procedure of brassiere.

(Or)

b. Draft a pattern for six panel saree petticoat and calculate the required material.

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V-14

23 a. Draft a pattern for Survar and lay the Survar paper pattern on bias

(Or)

b. Draft the Nehru’s Kurtha with Chinese and calculate the required material.

24. a. Give the importance of pattern alteration and explain any one alteration in trousers.

(Or)

b . Explain the pattern alteration in Bodice.

25. a. Draft the paper pattern of Men’s full sleeve shirt and calculate the required material.

(Or)

b. Draft a pattern for Men’s Sherwani and calculate the material requirements.

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : PATTERN DRAFTING AND Coursecode : M7GT206 CONSTRUCTION- II

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. What is seam allowance?

2. What is straight grain?

3. Define fullness.

4. What is lay length?

5. Mention any three types of neck finishes.

6. What is six panel petticoat?

7. What is straight jacket?

8. Give the difference between puff sleeve and leg-o-mutton sleeve.

9. What do you mean by front full opening?

10. What is Magyar sleeve?

11. Define survar.

12. How will you finish the neck of Nehru’s kurtha?

13. Mention the points which consider good fit.

14. List the fitting problems in shoulder line.

15. What are the fitting problems occur in neck line?

16. Define ease.

17. What is cuff?

18. How will you lay the yoke pattern of Men’s full sleeve shirt?

19. How will you calculate the material requirement for Sherwani?

20. Where will you keep the pleats in pleated trouser? PART- B

Note: Answer all Questions Marks 5 x 12 = 60

21. a. Draft a pattern for Peter-pan collar and puff sleeve of Children’s frock. and Calculate the

material requirement.

(Or)

b. Draft a pattern for children’s Divided skirt and give the stitching procedure.

22. a. Draft a pattern for cut choli and calculate the material requirement.

(Or)

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V-15

b.

Dra

ft a

patt

ern for Lady’s Straight jacket with leg-o-mutton sleeve and write the stitching procedure

23. a. Draft a pattern for Lady’s Night Dress with front full opening and write the stitching procedure.

(Or)

b. Draft a pattern for Nehru’s Kurtha with Chinese collar and calculate the material requirement.

24. a. Explain the fitting problems and alterations in sleeves and bust line.

(Or)

b. Explain the fitting problems in Trousers.

25. a. Draft a pattern of Men’s pleated trouser and calculate the material requirement.

(Or)

b. Draft a paper pattern of Men’s jeans and calculate the material requirements.

DETAILED SYLLABUS

Major Divisions

UNIT I : INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDISING

UNIT II : RETAIL MERCHANDISING

UNIT III : VISUAL MERCHANDISING

UNIT IV : MERCHANDISE PLANNING

UNIT V : MARKETING TECHNIQUES & SALES PROMOTION

UNIT I - INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDISING (13 HRS)

Merchandising – Definition – Principles & Techniques – Role of Merchandising

division in an Apparel firm – Role of merchandiser –Skills of Merchandiser – Fashion

Forecasting – Product Research –Product Development – Planning – Presentation

Functions of Merchandiser – Types of approval - Sampling –Types of samples-

development sample, salesman sample, Approval sample, Preproduction sample, Production

sample, shipment sample– Check points for a proper approval – Approving sewing operations

and various processes.

UNIT II - RETAIL MERCHANDISING (13 HRS)

Introduction to Retail Merchandising–Types of retail merchandising- Department stores–

Discounters–Off-price retailers – Outlet source – Close out - Warehouse clubs. Garment costing-

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT

TECHNOLOGY 4 64

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT401 APPAREL MERCHANDISING 75 30

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V-16

Fabric consumption-CMT charges for various styles- costing of woven garment full sleeve shirt,

trousers, panel skirt- costing of knitted garment- Night gown. Retail pricing – Mark up – Price

point – Inventory control Markdown – Promotional pricing - Deceptive pricing – Non-store

retailing – Mail order Merchants –E-Tailing – Television shopping.

UNIT III - VISUAL MERCHANDISING (13 HRS)

Definition- elements of Visual merchandising- display - Principles of Displays–Window

display–Interior Display– Mannequins – Department displays – Signs – Lighting – Fixtures.

Special events –The Environments of visual presentation–Trends in visual merchandising –

Small store applications -Assessment of Visual Merchandising Programme. Assessment of

Visual Merchandising effectiveness.

UNIT IV- MERCHANDISE PLANNING (13 HRS)

Merchandising plan – Planning sales goals –Buying plan –Assortment Planning – Open to

buy – Purpose of a six months plan, Elements of a six month plan – Analysis of previous

merchandising plan and developing a new plan-Planning components -Merchandising

calendar and scheduling. Direct order- Merchant order- CMT order- Vendor and sub contractor-

requirement of a Purchase order- Amendment sheet- types of buyer and buying offices- Buyer,

seller meet.

UNIT V - MARKETING TECHNIQUES & SALES PROMOTION (12 HRS)

Marketing –definition -principles- objectives- strategies – Advertisement Techniques –

.Broadcast Advertising – Radio advertising – Television Advertising – Advantages &

Disadvantages – Magazines – Out-of-home advertising –Direct mail. Advertisement

effectiveness. Sales promotion approaches, effectiveness - Distribution channels – consumer

behaviour in fashion.

Text Book:

Title Author Publisher Year

Marketing Management

Philip. Kotler

Kevin Lane Keller

Prentice Hall 2006

Fashion Marketing &

Merchandising

Manmeet Sodhia Kalyani Publishers

Fashion buying &

Merchandising

Management

Tim Jackson &

David Shaw

Palgrave Master Series 2001

Apparel Manufacturing Ruth E. Glock

Grace I. Kunz

A Simson & Schuster

company, Singapore

1995

Reference:

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V-17

Title Author Publisher Year

Export management Balagopal.T.A.S Himalaya Publishing

House, Bombay.

1984

Inside the fashion business Kitty G. Dicerson Dorling Kindesley(India)

Pvt Ltd., New Delhi

2007

Fashion Retailing Ellen Diamond Dorling Kindesley(India)

Pvt Ltd., New Delhi

2007

Foundations of advertising

Theory & Practice

Chunnawala

Sethia

Himalaya Publishing

House, Bombay

1985

Retail Merchandising Ernest H Rich Merrill Publishing

company

company, New Jersy

Fashion Sales Promotion Pamela M.Phillips A Simson & Schuster 1985

Fashion Marketing

Mike Easey

Blackwell Publishing

2005

Fashion Marketing Hines & Bruce

Butter worth - Heinemann 2006

Merchandise Buying and

Management

Donnellecen

Fairchild Publication Inc.,

1999

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course :APPAREL MERCHANDISING Course code : M7GT401

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. Define apparel merchandising.

2. What is product development?

3. Give the types of samples.

4. What are CMT?

5. What is specialty store?

6. Define private label retailer.

7. Define retail pricing.

8. Give example for non-store retailing.

9. Give the importance of window display.

10. What are fixtures?

11. Define trend in visual merchandising.

12. What are signs?

13. What is merchant order?

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V-18

14. Define open to buy.

15. What is amendment sheet?

16. Give any two advantages of buyer seller meet.

17. Give the advantages of radio advertising.

18. What is stock to sales ratio report?

19. What is out of home advertising?

20. Give the disadvantages of television advertising.

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions

21. a) Elaborate on functions of merchandiser in a apparel industry.

(Or)

b) Explain in detail the costing of Men’s long sleeve shirt.

22. a) Write notes on i) Department store ii) Off Price retailer

(Or)

b) Write notes on promotional pricing and deceptive pricing.

23. a) Explain in detail elements of visual merchandising.

(Or)

b) Elaborate on the environment of visual presentation.

24. a) How will you develop a new six month merchandising plan? Explain

(Or)

b) Elaborate on different types of buyers and their roll?

25. a) How will you determine advertising effect? Explain

(Or)

b) Elaborate on merchandising evaluation.

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course :APPAREL MERCHANDISING Course code : M7GT401

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. Define forecasting.

2. What is merchandise?

3. Define Discounters.

4. Define E- Tailing.

5. Define retail outlet.

6. Define inventory control.

7. Who is responsible for displaying of garments in showroom?

8. What is visual merchandising?

9. Give the uses of mannequins.

10. List the different display system.

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V-19

11. Who is named as buyer?

12. List the type of buyer.

13. Define merchandising calendar.

14. Give the purpose of advertising.

15. List the type of advertising Methods

16. List the home advertising Medias.

17. Give the advantage of television advertising.

18. What is direct order?

19. List the type of sample.

20. List the type of approval.

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions

21. a) Elaborate the role of merchandiser.

(Or)

b) Elaborate on different types approval in Export garment production

22. a) Elaborate on non store retailing.

(Or)

b) Discuss the various types of pricing policy followed in retail pricing.

23. a) Name and describe the principles of Display?

(Or)

b) Explain the elements of visual merchandising with its examples.

24. a) Explain in detail the requirements of purchase order.

(Or)

b) How will you analyse merchandising plan?

25. a) How will you maintain inventory position and sales? Explain

(Or)

b) Elaborate on broadcast advertising and its merits & demerits.

DETAILED SYLLABUS

Major Divisions

UNIT I : INTRODUCTION TO COSTUMES

UNIT II : COSTUMES OF ANCIENT WORLD

UNIT III : COSTUMES OF WESTERN COUNTRIES

UNIT IV : TRADITIONAL COSTUMES OF INDIA

UNIT V : COSTUMES OF MODERN WORLD

UNIT I - INTRODUCTION TO COSTUMES (13HRS)

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK TOTAL HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 4 64

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT402 INDIAN AND WESTERN COSTUMES 75 30

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V-20

Origin of clothing –dress out of painting, cutting and other methods- Growth of dress,

Need for clothing- factors influencing costume changes- role of costumes as a status symbol,

sex appeal, fashion and seasons.

UNIT II - COSTUMES OF ANCIENT WORLD (13 HRS)

Pre-historic period- discussions on costumes- Sumerian costumes- Cloak- Kaunakas-

outer garments- Roman costumes- Tunic- Toga- Stola- Palla- Byzantine costumes- Cloaks-

Hose- Pallium- Brief study of costumes on Socio-political and economic point of view- study

on colour combinations - view on society reflections.

UNIT III - COSTUMES OF WESTERN COUNTRIES (13 HRS)

Costumes of Ancient Western Civilization – Egypt, Roman, English, French empires

during Renaissance 1500 – 1600 A.D. Jewellery of the period –color combination- Materials –

Accessories. Brief study of costumes on Socio-political and economic point of view

UNIT IV - TRADITIONAL COSTUMES OF INDIA (13 HRS)

Costumes of India, History of Indian Costumes up to Mughal Period, Traditional

Costumes of different states in India. Accessories and Garments used in India. Study of Dacca

Muslin,Jandhani, Himrus & Amrus Carpets, Kashmir Shawls, Kanchipuram & Baluchari Sarees,

Paithani sarees, Bandhani, Patola, Ikat, Kalamkari and other styles of Printing & Dyeing

Textiles.

UNIT V - COSTUMES OF MODERN WORLD (12 HRS)

Costumes of 20th century-factors influencing on costume changes –Study on Business

Wears- Evening dress- Sleep wear- Religious wear- Seasonal wear - Specialized wears- Bridal

wear – Sportswear- Industrial wear- Party wear- Brief study of costumes on Socio-political and

economic point of view- study on colour combinations.

Text Book:

Title Author Publisher Year

Historic Costumes Lester K.I. Chas A Bennet & Co 1991

Costume & Fashion Laver J Thames & Hudson 1997

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V-21

Costume & Fashion Jack Cassin - Scott Brockhampton press,

London

1999

Costumes of India &

Pakistan

Das S N 1984

Indian Costume G.S Ghurye Popular Prakasham 1987

History of Fashion Garland 2001

Reference:

Title Author Publisher Year

The encyclopaedia of

Fashion

Georgina'O' Hara

2002

Fashion in western world Yarwood Doreep

2002

Cos tume, Tex t i l es and

J e w e l l e r y o f I n d i a

Vandana

B h e n d e r i

P rakash Books , New

Delh i , 2004 .

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : INDIAN AND WESTERN COSTUMES Course code : M7GT402

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. What is the role of costume in social status?

2. What types of method are followed for clothing in ancient period?

3. Which factors influence the costume changes?

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V-22

4. What are the old methods of dressing?

5. What is the basic shape of Roman costumes?

6. Define cloak.

7. Define Tunic.

8. What is Hose?

9. What is the basic garment structure in Egypt?

10. Which period is called as renaissance?

11. What kind of accessories used in Ancient English period?

12. Name the jewelleries used in Ancient Rome.

13. Define Bandhani.

14. Define Kalamkari.

15.. What do you mean by Traditional Costume?

16. What is the basic garment structure during Mughal period?

17. What is seasonal wear?

18. Define sportswear

19. What is industrial wear?

20. What are the factors influence the costume changes in 20th Century?

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions.

21. a. Elaborate the different methods of clothing in ancient period.

(Or)

b. Explain the role of costumes as social, sexual & fashion aspects.

22. a. Explain in detail about the Sumerian costumes.

(Or)

b. Explain the role of costumes in socio-political &economic point of view.

23. a. Explain in detail about the English costumes..

(Or)

b. Explain in detail about the French costumes.

24. a. Give short notes on different types of traditional saris in India.

(Or)

b. Give short notes on different types of traditional printing methods of India.

25. a. Explain the various factors which influence the costume changes in modern India.

(Or)

b. Explain about the business wears & seasonal wears.

MODEL QUESTION PAPER - I I

Term : V Time : 3 Hrs

Programme : Diploma GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Max Marks : 75

Course : INDIAN AND WESTERN COSTUMES Course code : M7GT402

PART-A Marks 15 x 1 = 15

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V-23

Note: Answer any 15 Questions.

1. Define Apparel.

2. What is the basic need for clothing?

3. What is the role of costume as a social symbol?

4. What is the role of season in costume changes?

5. Define sumarian costume.

6. What is kaunakas?

7. Define pre-historic period.

8. What is the basic garment structure in French period?

9. What is the basic structure in Roman costumes?

10. List the accessories used in Ancient Egypt.

11. What type of color combinations are used during Renaissance period?

12. What type of accessories used in Ancient French period?

13. Define about the Paithani sarees.

14. What is Himrus?

15. Define Ikkat.

16. Briefly explain about Kanchivaram sarees.

17. Define religious wear.

18. What are the famous costume shapes in 20th century?

19. Which factors influence the garment shape?

20. Define bridal wear

PART- B Marks 5 x 12 = 60

Note: Answer all Questions.

21. a. Explain in detail about the growth of dress in ancient period.

(Or)

b. Explain the factors which influence the costume changes.

22. a. Explain in detail about the Ancient Roman costumes..

(Or)

b. Explain in detail about the Ancient Byzantine costumes

23. a. Elaborate about the jewellery & accessories used in Ancient Western Civilization.

(Or)

b. Discuss about the costumes of French & English empires during Renaissance

24. a. Give short notes on Dacca Muslin & Kanchivaram sarees.

(Or)

b. Give notes on Bandhani & Patola.

25. a. Explain the factors which influence the 20th century costumes.

(Or)

b. Explain about the party wear & industrial wear

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK TOTAL HOURS

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V-24

List of Experiments

1. Desize & Scour the given woven fabric.

2. Bleach the given cotton fabrics with Hydrogen peroxide.

3. Dye the given Cellulosic fabric with Reactive dyes.

4. Dye the given Silk material with Acid dyes.

5. Dye the given Polyester material with Disperse dyes - HTHP Dyeing machine.

6. Print the given cotton fabrics with Reactive dyes.

7. Print the given fabrics with Pigment dyes.

8. Determine the wash / rub fastness of the given fabrics / garments.

9. Draw Design, Draft and Peg plan for Plain weave fabric and determine the quality

particulars.

10. Draw Design, Draft and Peg plan for Twill weave fabric and determine the quality

Particulars.

11. Draw Design, Draft and Peg plan for Regular Sateen weave fabric and determine the

quality particulars

12. Determine the Lea strength of yarn using Lea tester and calculate the Count product.

13. Determine the Twist per Inch of Single yarn using Twist tester.

14.Determine the Tensile strength of fabric using Tensile strength tester.

15.Determine the Tearing strength of fabric using Tearing strength tester.

16.Determine the Bursting strength of the fabric using Bursting tester.

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 5 80

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT312 TEXTILE TESTING AND WET

PROCESSING PRACTICAL 75 35

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V-25

List of Experiments

1. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment - Party dress - Frock with Peter Pan collar,

Puff sleeve & Frilled skirt

2. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment - Garara Skirt

3. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Divided skirt ( culottes)

4. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Sari petti-coat - 6 panels

5. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment - Night dress -Front full opening

6. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Survar – bias cutting

7. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment– Nehru’s Kurta with Chinese mandarin collar

8. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Cut choli

9. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Magyar choli

10. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Full sleeve shirt

11. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Pleated trouser

12. Prepare the paper pattern for the Garment – Sherwani

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 4 64

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT211 PATTERN DRAFTING-II PRACTICAL 75 35

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V-26

List of Experiments

1. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment - Party dress - Frock with

Peter Pan collar, Puff sleeve & Frilled skirt

2. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment - Garara Skirt

3. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment - Divided skirt ( culottes)

4. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Sari petticoat - 6 panels

5. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment - Night dress -Front full

opening

6. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment - Survar – bias cutting

7. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Nehru’s Kurta with

Chinese mandarin collar

8. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Maxi

9. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Cut choli

10. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment– Katori choli

11. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Raglan choli

12. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Magyar choli

13. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Full sleeve shirt

14. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Pleated trouser

15. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment– Sherwani

16. Using the paper pattern cut, stitch and finish the Garment – Jeans

TERM PROGRAMME HOURS /

WEEK

TOTAL

HOURS

V DIPLOMA IN GARMENT TECHNOLOGY 5 80

COURSECODE COURSE NAME MAXIMUM

MARKS

MIN. MARKS

FOR PASS

M7GT212 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION-II

PRACTICAL 75 35