HADESwanderlust

issue 2

wanderlustA strong desire to travel

Having never left Europe in my 20 years on this planet, I am one of the many people enthralled by the idea of Wanderlust. For the last few years I have been impulsively longing to just pack my bags and go. My involvement in the worldly industry of fashion has only furthered this desire and through working on this issue of HADES myself and the team have, metaphorically, travelled the world without actually leaving the UK. From directing a photographic editorial on a farm with a horse named Gucci to attempting an American Vintage photo-shoot in Scotland’s torrential rain, the HADES team have bared all to bring you an exciting second issue of the magazine.

Since the launch of issue one the original HADES family consisting of myself, Creative Director and photographer Laura McKinnon; Graphic Editor and photographer Siobhan Stewart; Editorial Journalist Stephanie Boyle and Make-Up Artist extraordinaire Nikki McMillan, has grown. For this issue we have proudly welcomed make-up artist Rachel- Louise Newton, freelance stylist Megan Flockhart and filmer Chris Gibson onto the creative team.

Over the last couple of months, we have teased you all with snippets of this issues content in Chris Gibson’s wonderful fashion films and now, it is finally here! On our cover we present the futuristic Cypriot bags and accessories label, Talu. Straight out of university and onto the catwalk we search for the next bright young stars of the fashion industry at Graduate Fashion Week. Editorial journalist, Stephanie Boyle explores the world of international fashion photography from past to present. We treat you to an exclusive interview with world famous make up label, Lime Crime and explore the international fashion industry with features on trends and designers from Paris, Dubai, The US, Sweden and Japan.

Finally, I would like to thank everyone on the team for all their hard work and persistence this issue and all of our readers for the support you have given the magazine over the past few months, it really has been invaluable.

So now sit back, relax and prepare for take-off!

Happy travels,Corrine McConnachie

PREPARE FOR taKe-OFFA Word From The Editor...

cOntents011024363848606870 8192

on the cover:Photography: Laura McKinnonModel:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie

TALU CREATIONS

KAREN HALE

LIME CRIME

RIPTINKA ACCESSORIES

BINT THANI

WESTERN TREND

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK

THE WORLD’S LENS

JENNIE Lö ö F

MALAM PARIS

PARMA VINTAGE

welcOMe tO... CYPRUS

cOntents011024363848606870 8192

on the cover:Photography: Laura McKinnonModel:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie

TALU CREATIONS

KAREN HALE

LIME CRIME

RIPTINKA ACCESSORIES

BINT THANI

WESTERN TREND

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK

THE WORLD’S LENS

JENNIE Lö ö F

MALAM PARIS

PARMA VINTAGE

2 Hades

TALU CREATIONSPhotography: Laura McKinnon

Model:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie

Words: Corrine McConnachie

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The first time you come eye to eye with a Talu

bag is an experience not to be forgotten. At the

Margin trade show, surrounded by an array of

designs, I was immediately

drawn to the Talu Creations

bags and accessories range

designed by Chris Christo.

The captivating, glass fused

Talu eye stamp immediately reminded me of

the Big Brother emblem and before I knew it,

I was making a beeline straight for the new,

exciting and futuristic designs. Many ancient

philosophies consider the symbol of the eye to

be a channel to a new dimension and, as Talu

creations journeys towards success, Chris

Christo takes accessorising to a new level with

his fashion forward, handmade creations.

Founded in November 2011 under the

slogan of ‘Handmade Individual Design’, the

Cypriot label has already taken the European

fashion industry by storm. In less than a year

Chris has stocked Talu in Cyprus, Athens and

Mykonos, showcased Talu at Athens Xclusive

Designer’s Week and Margin Trade Show in

London, launched the brand’s first official

womenswear collection for Spring/Summer

2012 and branched into menswear. With these

achievements under his belt, Chris believes that

his unique tailor-made bags and jewellery can

break the fashion accessories mould, “Talu is

very fresh, I wanted to create a brand that breaks

away from the mainstream, yet compliments

current trends. Fashion is usually ‘played safe’

to some extent for mass

mainstream interest and

greater financial gain. I

believe that to have full

artistic vision, one must

not think about short term financial rewards

but, instead, explore all parameters of design.”

Speaking professionally with passion and

confidence it is clear that Chris is no stranger

to the fashion industry. After working under

the likes of the popular 1980s British fashion

designer, Juliette Spatchette and styling celebrity

personalities Chris was ready to “take the bull

by the horns” with Talu, “My first taste of the

fashion industry was working in the renowned

fashion department store ‘Hyper Hyper’ in High

Street Kensington, London. With the re launch

of the store, renamed’ HypeDf’ I was appointed

Assistant store manager and junior buyer by

the famous Ms Loren Gordon. I owe a lot to

Loren for believing in my talent and giving me

the opportunity to achieve so much. Alongside

international buying trips, I was creating and

implementing the three floor store’s vast window

schemes and visual merchandising.”

With a focus on individuality and the needs

of the customer at the forefront of the Talu brand,

‘I wanted to create a brand that breaKs away from the

mainstream, yet cOMpliMents current trends.’

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every part of Chris’s artistic

design is cleverly thought out.

Chris, dynamically, explains

the function of the metal base,

which allows each bag to stand

upright. Even the PVC leather

fabric was chosen for more

than just aesthetic pleasure as

the material is easy to clean,

‘Everything begins with a

thought process followed by

sketches, samples and then the

final tweaking to make sure the

end product is perfect. I believe

in functionality as well as visual

design. I take extreme care,

effort and time regarding the

technical side of the procedure

of designing.’ Inspired by his

Cypriot roots and Greek culture,

the iconic Talu eye stamp was

created to make each accessory

instantly identifiable: ‘Talu has

its own unique and individual

identity. I stick with the original

concept, yet experiment with

shape, size, colour and of course

materials. In many cultures,

’the eye’ has been a symbol of

protection since the beginning

of time. It is said to ward off

evil and keep positive energy

around you. Coming from a

Greek background, “the eye”

has always been prominent.’

Chris is overjoyed with

the brand’s progress so far,

especially considering the first

official womenswear collection

was only launched five months

ago, “The past few months of

my life have been the most

exciting and I feel truly blessed

to have received such a level of

recognition for my work.” With

confidence in Talu’s recent

achievements Chris launched

the first “Talu man” collection

for Spring/Summer 2012 in

May, ‘Three new fantastic “man

bags” have been designed and

the “man jewellery” is in the

pipeline and will be launched

in time for high summer.’

With every belief in his

brand Chris aims high with

hopes for the Talu brand to

go global in the future, ‘My

aspirations for TALU are for

the brand to grow steadily and

become loved and worn by those

who want to be different. I will

be spending most of my time

between London and Cyprus,

since we are keen to break into

the UK market in big way. I

am excited to announce that

Talu will be showcasing at the’

PURE Trade Show’ in London

this August and will, therefore,

be exposed to a worldwide

audience .There has been a lot

of positive interest shown in

Middle and Far East and I hope

to break into the market there

also.’

When dreaming,

envisioning an eye indicates

opening a new chapter as your

vision clears and you focus

on a new direction. As Chris

Christo’s dream progresses

and spreads it seems that the

direction of Talu is not only

significant to lovers of bags and

accessories but to the fashion

industry as a whole with a new

brand rising to rival others

at the top of their game and

challenge current convention.

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welcOMe tO... jAPAn

Karen

Hale

Photography: Siobhan Stewart

Model: Victoria Middleton @ Model Team

Make-Up: nikki McMillan

Styling: Corrine McConnachie

Words: Corrine McConnachie

From Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane, Fashion Week designers truly embraced statement

prints this season. In the range of popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks an edgy

alternative to the frequent floral and tribal dresses was offered in the use of bold geometric prints.

Designers such as Kate Kosek, Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the playful trend, reminiscent

of the 1980s. Glasgow School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed many with her own unique take

on the trend using traditional Japanese kimonos at the university’s annual catwalk show.

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From Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane,

Fashion Week designers truly embraced

statement prints this season. In the range of

popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012

catwalks an edgy alternative to the frequent floral

and tribal dresses

was offered in the

use of bold geometric

prints. Designers

such as Kate Kosek,

Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the

playful trend, reminiscent of the 1980s. Glasgow

School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed

many with her own unique take on the trend

using traditional Japanese kimonos at the

university’s annual catwalk show.

The third year Textile Design student fused both

contemporary and experimental style in her

hypnotising prints with the traditional in her use

of historic Japanese garments, which created

an image of a liberated Geisha girl. Karen said,

‘I knew that simple kimono-style shapes would

work well with my print designs as kimonos are

unfussy and have strong visual impact, despite

being relatively straight-forward to make. I

suppose my designs are quite minimalist, but my

use of shape and repeated motifs means they are

eye-catching.’

With an artistic eye, fashion has been an interest

of Karen’s from a young age and her love for

print dates all the way back to her childhood

wardrobe, ‘At a young age I was drawn to repeats

and patterns, and printed clothes. A lot of my

clothes when I was a

child were striped or

covered in polka dots

and floral patterns.

So, the Textile Design

degree (specialising in Print) was an obvious

choice!’

Karen is thankful for her experience at university

as it has allowed her to dabble in many areas

of fashion design. After graduating the textile

student plans to utilise most of the skills she

has learned, ‘I have done short courses in Knit,

Print, Weave and Embroidery, learning the basic

and some more advanced techniques in each of

these specialisms. I would love the opportunity

to do more hand and machine-embroidery, and

perhaps even knit. I also really enjoy painting

and following contemporary art.’

With high hopes for an artistic career, preferably

in textile design, Karen hopes to embrace the all-

important global aspect of the fashion industry

and gain work experience abroad, ‘It’s so

‘It's so important to go out and see the wOrld and to collect

inspiratiOn from your travels.’

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important to go out and see the world and to

collect inspiration from your travels. This year I

plan to get some industry experience under my

belt. I am also trying to organise and save for

personal study trips to Berlin and Florence to

inspire think my final year concept.’

In today’s competitive fashion industry the

support of a degree can be highly useful and

Karen advises those with the determination and

passion for design to grasp the opportunity to

study. Reflecting back on her experiences so far

Karen advised, ‘It’s important to have confidence

in your work and to know where your strengths

lie. Don’t be afraid of having a signature style

that you keep going back to, but try not to get

stuck in a rut. Always carry a camera or sketch-

book, you never know when something inspiring

will catch your eye.’

Looking at her three fine cut, colourful and

mesmerising kimonos it is clear Karen is

talented. With her bubbly enthusiasm and drive

HADES magazine has no doubt that Karen Hale

will succeed in her future endeavours.

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welcOMe tO... AMERiCA

l Me

c r i M e

Photographer: Laura McKinnonMake-up: nikki McMillan

Styling: Corrine McConnachie with Riptinka Accessories

Model: Chloe Campbell @ Superior, Muti Goloba @ Superior

Words: Corrine McConnachie

26 Hades

ONCE UPON A TIME there was a

Russian girl named Doe Deere who dreamed of

becoming a creative pioneer. From a young age

Doe knew that a prosperous future lay ahead

and that, one day, her story would travel far and

wide. Though this fairy-tale is not one of princes,

sleeping potions or fairy god mothers, it does

involve fluorescent colours, glitter and a lot of

determination.

Lime Crime’s story began in 2008 when Doe

finally found an outlet for her creative nature:

make up. Teamed with a group of chemists

in Los Angeles Doe began to create the kind

of revolutionising make-up she had always

dreamed of and, thus, the vibrant world of Lime

Crime was born. In fitting with the fanciful

nature of Lime Crime, the unicorn was chosen

to be the brand mascot and to serve as a symbol

of individuality. Now, Doe Deere herself has

been branded by fans as ‘The Unicorn Queen’,

an example of the modern woman Lime Crime

target with their fashion-forward make up.

With high profile, celebrity fans such as Katy

Perry and Nicki Minaj and features in Elle and

Teen Vogue, Lime Crime has become a world-

wide phenomenon. The Unicorn Queen has

widened her appeal to the point of being titled

one of the ‘Top Inspiring Woman Entrepreneurs

of 2010’ by Self-Made magazine. The fairy-

tale of Lime Crime is known by many but what

lays beneath the glitter eye palettes and candy

coloured lip sticks? HADES magazine finds out.

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Why did you decide to create

your own make up brand?

I liked to invent fairy-tales when

I was a child. As I grew older,

the desire to tell stories never

subsided and I spent most of my

twenties looking for the right

medium. I tried music, fashion

and a few others things before

finally discovering make-up.

Having my own brand allows

me to tell my own story, create

worlds I've always wished

existed, and, of course, create

the kind of makeup I myself

want to wear.

How did you launch Lime

Crime?

We launched in 2008 with

a simple line of loose eye-

shadows. Then, following my

gut, I went into lipsticks- the

product we are currently most

known for.

Where did the name Lime

Crime come from?

Rhyming is used often in fairy-

tales. In that spirit, we give

our products whimsical names

such as Airborne Unicorn and

Countessa Fluorescent. To me,

Lime Crime means colouring

outside the lines, breaking up

the stale beauty standards and

doing things your own way!

Plus, lime green is one of my

absolute favourite colours.

Why did you choose a unicorn

as the company mascot?

A unicorn is a rare, mythical

creature of exceptional beauty

and a kind heart. I associate

unicorns with happiness,

mysterious nature and above

all individualism. Unlike a

horse a unicorn is a loner. I've

always felt different so there

is a natural affinity there. For

an animal-friendly brand like

Lime Crime a unicorn seemed

like a wonderful fit.

What makes Lime Crime

different from other make up

brands on the market?

Our entire line is cruelty-free,

and we strive to make all of

our products vegan. I believe

that makeup should be fun and

harmless, and animal testing

is the opposite of that. Beauty

should never come at the

expense of another living being.

We are also an independent

brand, which allows us to take

more creative risks and do what

we believe without worrying so

much about the bottom-line. I

think it is the only way to go!

When you first launched Lime

Crime did you ever expect it to

become so popular?

Not in a million years! I just

wanted to try something new

and something that I was

personally excited about, I

never expected such level of

enthusiasm. That's the nature

of the internet; you never know

where you'll find your audience.

What inspires and motivates

you?

Personally, I am inspired

by colours, sounds, nature,

kindness to animals, Los

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Angeles, and people with a unique sense of style.

Professionally, it's mythology and fairy tales!

(Although the two are almost impossible to

separate most of the time.)

How does it feel to have celebrity fans and to be

featured in publications such as Elle?

We have received support from numerous well-

respected publications and people, and it always

feels very humbling. I am still surprised and

flattered whenever somebody wants to wear or

talk about my brand Recently I was invited on

Dave Navarro's radio show, Dark Matter; Dave

is a huge anti-fur activist and found out about

my brand on the internet. It was cool to meet a

person with similar inclinations.

What inspired the Aquatænia eyeshadow palette?

My friend Traci Hines, who is known for being

a real-life mermaid and for singing The Little

Mermaid’s Part of Your World on Youtube in

character. Meeting Traci made a deep impact on

me as a life-long mermaid fanatic. I think the

palette is an excellent representation of Lime

Crime aesthetic and Traci’s effervescent beauty.

What can we expect from Lime Crime in the

future?

We are super-excited about all the releases we

have planned for 2012. I can't give away too

much but let's just say it's going to be our most

magical year yet!

Shop Lime Crime:

http://www.limecrimemakeup.com

Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/limecrime

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riptinka accessories is an up and coming UK

jewellery brand. Formed in 2009 by Katie Reekie,

Riptinka’s handmade designs offer costume

jewellery lovers with unique, quirky and high

quality pieces adorned with Swarovski elements

and genuine vintage components. Now three

years since the brand was founded, Riptinka is

fast rising to success with plans for a US launch.

After studying Fashion Design at Herriot Watt

and working as an assistant buyer for footwear

and jewellery companies such as Quiz, Katie

decided to follow her instincts and launch her

own company. With expert knowledge on how

the market works Katie wanted to create designs

that were truly unique and distinctive, ‘I could

tell early on that I was on to something special.’

Katie’s first designs took inspiration from

childhood nostalgia with a Barbie and fairy-tale

inspired collections. The Barbie designs were

particularly popular, ‘My initial range featured a

lot of Barbie references and at the time there

were only a couple of sellers in the UK selling

such styles.’ With an eye on emerging trends,

Katie’s recent collections have played upon

popular trends and given them an all-important

Riptinka twist, ‘In my tribal range for Spring/

Summer 2012 I managed to incorporate a lot of

my signature style with the use of popular spikes

whilst still keeping the range more commercial.’

With Riptinka fast rising in profile, Katie has

exciting plans for the future, ‘I have a large

project that has been bubbling under the surface

for around a year now. I have been creating a

range which will be the first of its kind in the

UK. I’ve been bursting at the seams to show

these samples but it is not long to wait now and

hopefully by mid-July l will be given the green

light to go into production. My newest venture

should open up a lot of doors for Riptinka and

taking my brand to the US is something I can

see happening in the not so distant future.’

Returning to her original roots, Katie also hopes

to add handmade womenswear to the Riptinka

label in the future. The team at HADES cannot

wait to see Riptinka’s latest project and watch

Katie work her way to the top!

riptinKaccessOriesWords: Corrine McConnachie

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welcOMe tO... DUBAi

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London, Paris, New York and

now Dubai- another city that is

making its own trademark stamp

on the fashion world. Chic, trendy

and of course girly; three words

Khulood Thani uses to describe

her incredible collection. Though

originally from the UAE, Khulood

studied at ESMOD in Paris before

moving to London and, as a result,

this burst of different cultures had

a profound impact on the image of

her London Fashion Week featured

brand ‘Bint Thani’

“Dubai, as a city, is very

cosmopolitan and encourages

creativity. As a designer I have been

exposed to the evolving scenes of

fashion, art and design in all three

cities which has contributed to the

way I think about fashion”

Inspired by the artistic and cultural

diversity found during her travels,

Khulood created Bint Thani in

2009 as a way of expressing

her individual take on fashion.

Although her inspirations mainly

come from fashion history, art and

movies, Khulood still takes the

forever changing trend forecast

into consideration when creating

clothing. Each collection carries

a theme and those themes each

express a story. Her collections

are where couture meets the

dynamism of the high street to

create an incredibly strong identity

that comes with Bint Thani - an

identity that is further expressed by

Khulood’s description of a typical

Bint Thani customer:

bint tHaniPhotography: Siobhan StewartModel: Sula Powell @ Superior

Make-up: nikki McMillanHair: Lorraine Powell

Styling: Corrine McConnachieWords: Stephanie Boyle

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The Bint Thani girl is bubbly, playful yet innocent and, above all,

chic.“The Bint Thani girl is bubbly,

playful yet innocent and, above all, chic. She is

effortless in her style and never over-dressed.

She likes to be indulged in luxurious fabrics such

as silk, chiffon and satin. She is sophisticated,

enjoys travelling to enrich her knowledge and

adores arts and culture”

Recently, Khulood has launched a collaboration

piece with UAE-based jewellery designer Amal

Haliq which merges their love for fashion and

jewellery in one piece: a summer coat. On the

mood board, the designer describes everything

as “sweet as candy” as the pastel colours; baby

pink, mint green and lemon yellow remind her of

Parisian macaroons whereas the bolder shades

such as flash yellow, fuchsia and bright whites

look like colourful candies. The overall feel of the

piece is bold and very feminine.

Bint Thani as a brand is incredibly fun,

aesthetically stunning and what you could

call happy fashion. Khulood herself is a truly

inspirational designer with a unique style and

worldly knowledge of culture and the arts. She

describes her contribution at London Fashion

Week as her greatest achievement so far and,

in the future, she hopes to see Bint Thani as a

trendsetter in the world of fashion. With a strong

following and a host of new ideas, it is no wonder

that with designers like Khulood Thani, Dubai

and the UAE are truly making their mark on the

fashion map.

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welcOMe tO... AMERiCA

westerntrend

Photography: Laura McKinnonModel: Samantha Davidson @ Colours

Make-up: Rachel newtonStyling: Corrine McConnachie, Stephanic Boyle

Special thanks to: Lisa Brewster andGucci the horse

Words: Stephanie Boyle

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Saloon doors creak as they swing in the

breeze, metal spurs spin on leather boots and a

tumble weed blows across the sand. Who knew

that fashion could take inspiration from the

Wild West? It's not a replica of old spaghetti

western movies but more a nod towards the

ethereal wilderness of American style; a little

less Calamity Jane but a little more Texan belle;

think sexy gold rush.

In recent collections at fashion week, designers

such as Scott Sternberg and Isabel Morant took

inspiration from the Wild West with their use

of capes, Navajo and suede. Kinder Aggugini

channelled feminine styles with prints based

on vintage Cowboy wallpaper and Thakoon

Panichgul decorated bold western cuts with

oriental fabric to create a collection where east

meets west. In the July issue of UK Vogue, Karen

Elson stars in Tom Craig's editorial “Don't Mess

with Texas” which sees the flame-haired model

pose as part of a story that takes place in a sleepy

Texan town at sunset.

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We sat down with model and designer Emma

Louise Connolly on set at the Hades photo shoot

to talk about her graduate collection which fitted

perfectly with the western inspired trend. The

mix of tan suede and black leather fringe detail

made each piece stand out as a true statement

on its own but also made the pieces versatile

enough to style with other items. Breaking away

from the uniformed “pretty” image set by her

lecturers, Emma created designs that were a lot

edgier:

“It all started when we were looking at packaging;

all the bows and frills were too girly for me so

I started playing around with the materials;

weaving, pleating and fringing – that's where

the basic inspiration came from for my graduate

collection”

The strong American fabrics of this collection

inspired the more industrial scenes of the

editorial; hay filled stables and rusty farm

equipment posed as the perfect backdrop for

the cowboy inspired styling. To create a softer

image in the editorial, The Tolsta Ghost dress by

HandmadeInPartick was used to enhance a more

feminine dynamic. Designer, Lorna Shields said,

“The tartan of the bodice came from left-over

fabric from my kilt and the muslin gives the

lightness and ethereality of a spectre. The

fabric is easily distressed and I thought taking a

blowtorch to it would complete the look”

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As there has always been a strong image of plaid

shirts on western styles, the tartan bodice made

a convincing statement in connection with the

theme. However, it was the muslin skirt that

created that striking image with the horse; it

conjures up images of riding horseback across

the desert, the fabric blowing in the wind.

Whether it's the distressed makings of an all-

American cowboy, or the whimsical styling of

a Southern Belle, it's this image of wilderness

and old American ways attached to the west that

makes it such a popular trend in the world of

fashion.

riding horseback across the desert, the fabric blowing in the wind...

welcOMe tO... LonDon

GraduateFasHiOn weeKPhotography: Laura McKinnonWords: Corrine McConnachie

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Graduate Fashion Week

celebrated its 21st birthday

this year by showcasing the

finest talent from numerous

UK fashion courses. In recent

years Graduate Fashion week

has been considered one of

the most influential events in

the annual fashion calendar as

it provides the British fashion

equivalent to a crystal ball.

Since its opening year, when

Burberry’s Christopher Bailey

won the debut student of the

year award, GFW has provided

a platform for some of Britain’s

most influential designers from

Stella McCartney to Antonio

Berardi.

The event stretched over a three

day period beginning on June

10th and hosted 20 catwalk

shows, more than 1,000

students from 39 universities

and 20,000 visitors. From

jewellery made out of

stationery, millinery designed

using back supports and a

jacket that transformed into

a suitcase HADES magazine

really did see it all. It seemed

each university had its own

speciality such as knitwear or

print and Bath Spa University

was awarded the highest honour

of the week with student, Chloe

Jones winning the George Gold

Award. The establishments

which really inspired the team

at HADES with their catwalk

shows were the University of

Central Lancashire, Newcastle’s

Northumbria University and

De Montfort University.

Though the University of

Central Lancashire showcased

on the first day of the event,

their memorable avant-garde

and highly impressive show was

still being raved about at the

end of the week after several of

its graduates won prizes at the

Gala closing show.

The UCLan catwalk opened

with designs by Claire Acton,

who set the tone for the rest of

the show with her pop art, face

image designs. Acton’s colourful

fringing and hair inspired

silhouettes, accessorised with

oversized hair clasps all added

to her clever take on the theory

that image is everything.

Having impressed many, it was

no surprise when Acton was

awarded with the runner up

prize for the prestigious Gold

Award.

Following on from Acton’s fun

pop art designs, Emma Guilfoyle

used similar Andy Warhol style

prints in her politically inspired

collection. Using images

of former Prime Ministers,

Margret Thatcher and Winston

Churchill, Guilfoyle played

upon the current Thatcher-

ite trend in her use of pastel

and tweed panelling, rosettes

and statement 1980s power

shoulders.

At the UCLan show the

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best designs were definitely

saved for last. The incredible

collection by Xiaoping (Fiona)

Huang had those in the front

row staring open mouthed as

the photographers frantically

snapped away, determined

not to miss a single step taken

down the catwalk. Xiaoping’s

collection took the term

thinking outside the box literally

with 3D accordion style pleated

trousers, which bounced as

the models strode down the

catwalk. Decorated with music

sheet print and primary colours,

these elaborate structures

truly represented the jack in

the box theme. Xiaoping’s

unique collection earned her

the honourable Zandra Rhodes

Textiles award.

Northumbria University

graduates stood out for their

high fashion couture style,

attention to detail and edge.

After walking out of the

Northumbria show there

seemed to be an overall

consensus of respect; I have yet

to hear anyone utter criticism

about the show or the university.

From the spectacular line up of

graduate collections, Amelia

Smith, Hannah Harrison and

Gary Wilson were the students

who really stood out.

Amelia Smith’s art deco

collection delivered decadence,

class and femininity.

Inspired by the architecture

in Moscow’s famous Red

Square, the shapely dresses

were detailed with intricate

monochromatic patterns and

gold embellishments which,

teamed with traditional fur

hats, created a strong and

mature collection.

Hannah Harrison’s fun travel

inspired collection took us

far away from Amelia Smith’s

Russian winter on an imaginary

journey around South-East

Asia. With a nod towards the

recent Prada vintage Americana

Spring/Summer campaign in

the use of bandanas, Hannah

captured the tourist style

perfectly with a retro briefcase

and statement sunglasses.

Her use of screen and digital

printing, dyes, foil and layering

gave the collection a quirky

edge which was added to by a

slogan t-shirt- ‘my friend went

on holiday and all she got me

was this lousy t-shirt.’

Gary Wilson rounded up the

Northumbria show in style with

bondage clad models depicting

futuristic femme-bots. The

black bobbed wigs and ripped

tights gave the collection, which

was about a confident woman

experiencing a breakdown,

an all-important edge. The

contrast used between the

tight leather dresses with large

gold zips and soft fabrics such

as satin portrayed each stage

in the meltdown of a broken

woman perfectly.

Last but not least in the handful

of establishments

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that impressed was the highly regarded fashion

school at De Montfort University. In the 2012

catwalk show graduates from De Montfort

were unsurpassed in their manipulation of

unconventional materials.

Many of the De Montfort graduates made use

of knitwear; however one designer stood out in

particular for the new, fun and quirky dimension

she brought to knitwear design. Kellie McGuiness

combined knit and print in her colourful and

feminine knitted hold dresses. The innovative

use of miniature photo frames to create necklaces

gave the collection a more high fashion appeal.

Charlotte Booty took the use of unconventional

materials to the next level in weaving hundreds of

cable ties into the dresses, Mac style jackets and

even the shoes in her collection. The colourful

plastics, which created statement necklines and

intricate cuff detail, looked stunning on the

catwalk.

Jade Clark’s bold menswear designs were

definitely the most memorable from the De

Montfort University catwalk show. The bondage

style PVC masks and anarchic t-shirt slogans-

‘bad man’ and ‘sick’- provided a striking contrast

to the use of bright pastel colourings, glitter

and googly eyed rucksacks, therefore, creating a

striking message about lost innocence.

The high standard on the catwalk at GFW 2012

had even industry veterans flabbergasted. It is

difficult to predict who from the 2012 graduates

will become the next Christopher Bailey or Paul

Smith but one thing is for sure, the future of the

British fashion industry is in safe hands.

I'm no photographer: I don't even have an expensive camera to pretend I'm a photographer.

You see, I'm merely a spectator, an admirer, if you like. As a writer, it is important to understand

the craft of the written word but, arguably, it can be more important to understand the power of a

great photograph.

tHe

lensWords: Stephanie Boyle

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I remember this one poster as a little girl, my

great aunt had it in a frame above her dresser;

between two huge elephants, wild and flailing,

stood a lady, delicate and graceful in a floor

length black gown, her hand on each animal. My

aunt had worked as a nurse in India for a while

and the elephants were always her favourite. The

photograph in question turned out to be Richard

Avedon's iconic 1955 poster “Dovima with the

Elephants” the monochrome gown was Dior and

the image was captured at the Cirque D'Hiver

in Paris. Despite being iconically Parisian, this

photograph has and always will remind me of

India. It is incredible how one image can make

you travel to a different place, where in your head

you can see, taste and smell the imaginary oasis

around you. Throughout the history of fashion

photography, the power of stunning editorials

have been enhanced by the allure of places far, far

away and deepened by man’s desire to travel and

discover the hidden corners of places unknown.

One photographer who stands out for the use

of travel in his work is F.C Gundlach, the most

recognised German photographer of the post-

war years. A particular editorial, which was

commissioned in 1966 for Brigitte magazine,

saw Gundlach travel to Egypt to shoot one of

the most recognisable series of photographs

from his entire career. With the models in

vintage swimming caps, it is said that their

heads, aimed to resemble colourful round balls,

were to be placed as a stark contrast against the

architectural form of the Egyptian pyramids. The

result was both a historical homage to ancient

Egypt and a nod towards the fashion forward

culture of 1960s Europe. Fifty years on and the

allure of travel is as strong as ever.

This year, Prada's Spring/Summer collection

brought back the glamour of the American road

trip. It might not seem as foreign and mysterious

a concept as say, Mario Testino’s “High Plains

Drifter” in UK Vogue but it has that retro vibe of

the USA like Elvis in Viva Las Vegas. The prints

are made up of vintage cars, cherries and flames

– a mix of the boyish obsession with speed

and the romanticism of American diners. The

advertorial tells the story of a road trip; it's all

scorching skies and cat-eye sunglasses meet with

classic cuts and bright red lips. Not only does it

encourage us to travel back in time, but also calls

to our inner adventurer taking to the open road

and travelling down Route 66.

You do not need to be a photographer, you do

not even need to have a great camera; but as a

spectator, a traveller and a dreamer it's more

than possible to become lost in a photograph

and travel to wherever your mind may take you.

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welcOMe tO... SWEDEn

Je nn i e

l ö ö Fd e s i G n

P h o t o g r a p h y : S i o b h a n S t e w a r tM o d e l : j e n n i f e r G r i b b e nM a k e - u p : R a c h e l L o u i s eW o r d s : S t e p h a n i e B o y l e

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Jumping in puddles, running in the rain and realising that you don't have to grow up is the

happy-go-lucky ethos behind the stunning collections of Swedish born designer Jennie Lööf. Looking at her designs, you become enraptured by the eclectic mix of modern cuts

with vintage fabrics- a combination that works incredibly well. We sit down with the designer

herself to talk personal style, sewing classes and future plans…

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When did you decide to start

Jennie Lööf designs?

It all started when I was very

young, being the youngest of

six, my clothes were all hand-

me-downs. I wanted to look

different, but not that different

so I started altering second

hand clothes and, from there,

built up towards making them

from scratch.

So, you've always liked to have

an individual style but who,

would you say, is the 'Jennie

Lööf' customer?

Everyone and anyone who

likes to feel special, unique and

quirky. My designs cater for all

ages and types of characters.

You're originally from Sweden,

has your heritage influenced

your designs?

Being Swedish does not

necessarily influence my

designs but rather how I

approach the design process.

My inspirations mainly come

from the people that are closest

to me; my family and friends.

Along with promoting the

collection, do you have any

other projects going on at the

moment?

I always have loads of

projects on the go. I recently

launched my first diffusion

line, ‘LOVELY’, made solely

from contemporary fabrics

and I am currently designing

the costumes for the latest

Barrowlands Ballet production

called ‘Dancing Voices’, which

will be showcased at the

Merchant City Festival and in

London this summer. On top of

this, I am also working on the

designs for my new accessory

line that launches later this

summer as well as for all my

private orders.

What has been your greatest

achievement since starting

your brand so far?

I feel the biggest achievement

is still to come, however I am

enjoying working with charities

in Glasgow; Impact Arts and

Starter Packs Glasgow. I teach

sewing classes and doing this

with a charity ensures that they

are accessible to everyone. And

working with the kids from

Impact Arts is so rewarding.

Finally, what do you hope to

achieve in the future for Jennie

Lööf?

This year I will be launching

my accessory line as well as

my menswear line. Next year,

I will showcase brand new

collections for all 4 lines: Jennie

Lööf, LOVELY, accessory line

– Spat-zera and the menswear

collection. My plan is to have

the ready to wear ‘LOVELY’

line in shops around the world.

welcOMe tO... PARiS

MalaM paris

Photographer: Laura McKinnonMake-up: nikki McMillanStyling: Megan Flockhart

Model: Lauren Haggarty @ Model Team, iona Stoddart @ Superior,

Amy WatsonWords: Corrine McConnachie

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THE SUN RISES on a crisp morning in Paris as merchants flee to a side street tucked

away in the corner of the city to set up their stalls for market. Beneath the bustle of early morning

grumbles and the unfolding of tables a faint simultaneous clatter of footsteps can be heard as three

girls appear in the distance, strolling down the cobble street hand in hand. The girls slowly pull into

focus as if they are travelling forward in time. Dressed almost like Victorian porcelain dolls, they

move through the eras and with each step a new chapter in the deeply woven history of Parisian

fashion is told as a new colour, texture, print or layer can be spotted.

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Founded in 2007 by Emmanuelle-Marie Remise,

MALAM Paris embodies the ethereal stylishness

of traditional French fashion, from the birth

of couture to the post war Christian Dior ‘New

Look’. Using both vintage and contemporary

customised materials to create a label for the

self-confident romantic, Emmanuelle-Marie

and MALAM Paris have gained fans in France

and the UK, ‘Vintage fabrics and trims hold

so many stories. I love how, when mixed with

contemporary design and a modern accessories,

vintage material instantly adds edge to a

garment.’

After graduating from the EM Lyon Business

School, Marie decided it was time to pursue her

true passion and began a fashion design degree

at the ESMOD Paris Fashion School in 2005.

It was during her years at the ESMOD when

Marie found the MALAM Paris signature style

using lace, embroidery and unusual modern

patterns to create charming dresses, petticoats

and modern blazers. Thanks to an extensive

supply of fabric coupons Marie became a self-

confessed compulsive fabric buyer and managed

to collect an assortment of vintage materials,

‘With too many fabrics and not enough room, I

decided to make dresses out of the fabric to sell.

After selling some dresses I decided I should

make petticoats because my first fitted dresses

were very short. This has become a habit and,

needless to say, I am now swimming in hundreds

of yards of fabric at the workshop.’

From what began as just a way to shift material

soon developed into the establishment of the

MALAM Paris label and, inspired by fairy-tales

and summers spent as a child in an old fashion

castle that belonged to her great grandmother,

Marie created the Poupées Perdues (Lost Dolls)

collection.

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With a unique style fusing romance and edge

MALAM Paris caught the attention of the LGN

Events group in London and Marie was invited

to showcase the ever expanding Lost Dolls

collection at their Spring/Summer London

Fashion Week show in 2010 and 2011, ‘Preparing

a collection to showcase is a very interesting way

of working. It is totally in contrast with what I

do the rest of the year because, for runway, I

try to give a homogeneous feel to the garments

shown. It is very exciting and rewarding to see

the finished product.’

After continuously building upon the Lost Dolls

collection, which is sold through the MALAM

Paris online store, Marie sets her goals higher

with the development of a second ready to wear

collection, ‘As sales steadily increase I hope

to expand upon the brand and branch out into

menswear. I would like to open a shop in Paris

and give new life to my designs.’

With all eyes on them the girls glide past me,

gripping a hold of one another and starring

ahead with determination. As they turn around

a new corner, it is clear that their journey with

MALAM Paris has only just begun…

I would like to open a shop in paris and give new liFe to my desiGns...

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welcOMe tO... AMERiCA

PARMA

Photography Laura McKinnon

Make-up: nikki McMillan

Styling: Gillian Chalmers, Stephanie Boyle

Model: nicole McCubbin @ Superior,

iona Stoddart @ Superior

Words: Stephanie Boyle

Special Thanks: Gordon Leith,

West End Cafe

VINTAGE

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The glamorous life of an air hostess is an ideal career but for Gillian Chalmers it was a mile high platform for the future. What started off as a simple obsession with thrift stores on her travels grew into Parma Vintage; a thriving business based in Gourock selling vintage fashion on a global scale. HADES magazine sat down with

Gillian to talk all things vintage...

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What first attracted you to the idea of opening

your own vintage clothing business?

When I worked for Virgin airlines I would often

pick up vintage pieces and sell them online

but I always wanted to open my own shop.

My favourite retro sweets are Parma violets so

in 2009, I set up shop in Gourock and Parma

Vintage was born.

What attracts you most to vintage fashion?

It's original, unique and has a quality that

doesn't really exist anymore. Each piece has a

story behind it that's added to with every owner-

and I guess in a way it's also a form of recycling.

What sets Parma Vintage apart from other

vintage outlets?

The stock is a mixture of both new brands and

vintage so we have a great mix of styles that

allow us to keep on top of seasonal trends. It's

important to cater for all of our customers.

How do you stay connected with your customers?

Has the internet played an important role?

The internet has played a huge part in the

success of Parma Vintage. We use our facebook

page to post real time updates to our customers;

sometimes we post an item on our page and it

sells out the next day. Most of our sales are online

too; last year we opened our ASOS Marketplace

boutique and we have sold items all over the

globe since. The blog feature is a great tool on

ASOS because it allows people from all over to

see what's going on with Team PV.

Who, would you say, is part of Team PV?

Team PV includes me, my staff and the

extended family of Parma Vintage. Anyone

from our customers to our models and creative

contributors are considered to be part of our

team.

What do you hope to achieve in the future for

Parma Vintage and Team PV?

At the moment we are working on rebranding PV

and creating a real corporate image. Everything

is going so well and I can't wait! In the future

I'd like to have more Parma Vintage outlets, who

knows? We may even go global!

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www.HadesMaG.cOMjoin the underworld...

we are currently recruiting photographers and journalists to join our team on future issues of Hades. if you are interested, please send a copy of your cv to contact@hadesmag.com.