Germany, Austria & Switzerland's Best Trips 1 -...
Transcript of Germany, Austria & Switzerland's Best Trips 1 -...
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AUTHOR THANKSNICOLA WILLIAMSMany thanks to my expert co-authors who responded to my pesky questions with appropriate speed, graciousness and authority. Danke to my own increasingly grown-up, trilingual road-tripping tribe – Niko, Mischa and Kaya – who’ve quit being car-sick and are now the ones deciding where our next road trip will be.
KERRY CHRISTIANIA heartfelt dankeschön to friends and family in the Schwarzwald, especially Hans and Monika in Villingen and Anja at the Brickstone Hostel, Ulm. Big thanks to Claus Schäfer in Triberg for the interviews. I’d also like to thank all the tourist board pros
I met on the road and my Lonely Planet co-authors for being great to work with. Finally, thanks to my husband for his ongoing support and for introducing me to the Black Forest all those years ago.
MARC DI DUCAHuge thanks go to parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after the boys while I was away. Also much gratitude goes to Oleksandr in Erding for night ‘researching’ the output of Bavaria’s breweries, Andrea in Nuremberg and the staff at tourist offices across the region, but in particular those in Coburg, Passau, Regensburg and Bayreuth.
CATHERINE LE NEVEZVielen Dank first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals and fellow travellers en route
for insights, information and good times. Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Gemma Graham and everyone at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu.
TOM MASTERSHuge thanks to Thomas Beach, my main man in Leipzig. To Álvaro Rodríguez Martín for company in Saxon Switzerland and for not choking to death in that restaurant in Görlitz. Thanks also to Moritz Estermann, Marius Rauschenbach, Sadia Belhadi, KiKi Hahn and Mario Dzurila for their help with research.
SALLY O’BRIENMany thanks to the friends, acquaintances, locals and tourists who shared their opinions with me on the subject
THIS BOOKThis 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Germany, Austria & Switzerland’s Best Trips was researched and written by Nicola Williams, Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Tom Masters, Sally O’Brien, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Benedict Walker.
This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Gemma Graham
Product Editors Elin Berglund, Jenna Myers
Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya
Cartographer Julie Dodkins
Book Designer Virginia Moreno
Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, Kate Evans, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney
Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzie
Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Andi Jones, Kate Morgan, Karyn Noble, Lorna Parkes, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Angela Tinson, Tasmin Waby, Lauren Wellicome
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BEHIND THE
SCENES
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of Switzerland’s best trips. As always, my family was an enormous help in matters practical, and terrific company on the road – gros becs à vous, as we say in these parts.
ANDREA SCHULTE-PEEVERSBig heartfelt thanks to the many wonderful people who’ve plied me with tips, insights, information, ideas and encouragement in my research for this guide.
RYAN VER BERKMOESThanks to Claudia Stehle as always for taking me to the dark depths of Northern Germany. And the happy ending to my fairy tale: Alexis Averbuck.
BENEDICT WALKERA massive thanks to my friends in Germany, to Gemma and Nicola from LP and to Mum for believing in me. I dedicate my writing to Aunty Bonnie, who started all this when I was a kid, who made books matter and who’ll never be forgotten.
PUBLISHER THANKSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Front cover photographs: (clockwise from top) Tarasp village and castle, Graubünden, Switzerland, nagelestock.com/Alamy; Old mill, Austria, JK Photo/Shutterstock; Convertible at the shore of Wolfgangsee, Austria, Andrea Altemueller/Getty.
Back cover photograph: Gosausee, Salzkammergut, Austria, daitoZen/Getty.
407407
Aaccommodation 25, 397-9activities, see skiing,
swimmingAhrenshoop 35, 42air travel 396airships 249Albertinum 118-19Aletsch Glacier 373-5Alfeld 51-2Alken 174Allerheiligen Wasserfälle
267, 269alps, the 9, 17, 347-53,
355-63, 365-75Alte Oper 184Altes Rathaus 186Altmühltal Nature Park 220Andermatt 368, 375Annweiler 178Appenzell 341-2, 345Archäologische Zone 186architecture 23area codes 402Arosa 367, 375art 23Asamkirche 270ATMs 401Augsburg 220, 225Augustiner Bräustübl 330Aussichtsturm
Pyramidenkogel 328
Automobile Welt Eisenach 78, 95, 108
BBacharach 165-6, 167Bachhaus 78, 94-5, 108Bad Doberan 40Bad Dürkheim 182, 183Bad Ischl 318Bad Karlshafen 142Bad Schandau 66-7Bad Tölz 242Baden-Baden 260, 261,
264-5, 269Bamberg 208Basel 344, 345Bastei 67-8bathrooms 403Bautzen 66Bavarian Forest National
Park 232Bayreuth 209, 211Beilstein 173Bellinzona 385Berchtesgaden 243-4, 245Berlin 12, 26-7, 35, 82-3, 87
walking tour 116-17Berlin Wall 116-17Bern 359-60, 363Bernkastel-Kues 171, 175Binz 44, 45Black Forest, the 14, 255-61,
263-9boat cruises 165, 282
Bockenheim an der Weinstrasse 182, 183
Bodensee Erlebniskarte 250Bodenwerder 142-3Bonn 160Boppard 163-4Brandenburg Gate 116-17Braubach 161-2Bregenz 252, 253, 292, 293,
296-7, 303Bregenzerwald Käsestrasse
300Breisach 259-60Bremen 129-30, 133, 144, 147Bremerhaven 128-9, 144-5Brothers Grimm 142budget 25
accommodation 398eating 400
Burg Eltz 174Burg Forchtenstein 308-9Burg Frankenstein 195-6Burg Güssing 309-10Burg Guttenberg 204Burg Hochosterwitz 325-6Burg Hohenzollern 258Burg Lockenhaus 309, 311Burggarten 332-3business hours 401-2
Ccable cars 374Café Central 332Café Hauptwache 184
INDEX
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
car ferries 160car hire 24, 391car insurance 391car travel, see drivingcash 401casinos 260, 265Cathédrale St-Pierre 388cell phones 25, 402Château de Chillon 351-2Château de Prangins 349Checkpoint Charlie 117Chemnitz 112Chiemsee 242children, travel with 205Chur 378climate 24Coburg 208-9, 211Cochem 173-4, 175Cologne 123, 150, 155, 158-9,
walking tour 186-7costs 25, 398, 400, 401Cottbus 84courses
windsurfing 289, 316scuba diving 328
credit cards 401currency 24cycling
bicycle routes 86transport 160, 165
Czech Republic 204
DDarmstadt 194, 199Davos 380, 385debit cards 401Deidesheim 181-2, 183Dessau-Rosslau 48-50, 53, 103Dinkelsbühl 217, 224disabilities, travellers with 403Disentis Abbey 368Donauwörth 219-20Dornburger Schlösser 75-6
Dortmund 153, 155Drei Gleichen 77-8Dresden 20, 35, 68-9, 71,
97-8, 99, 112-13, 115 walking tour 118-19
drinking 22, 310, 372driving 289, 391-5, 396
car hire 24, 391documents 391facts 391fuel 24, 395insurance 391licences 391maps 392parking 394-5pollution 394problems 395road distances 393road rules 393-4safety 392-3, 395websites 392
Duisburg 150-2Dürnstein 281-2Düsseldorf 158DVDs 397
EEast Frisian Islands 130Eichstätt 220Eisbach Surfers 271Eisenach 78, 79, 94-5, 108, 114electricity 399-400Emden 126emergencies 24, 403Emmental Region 360-1Engelberg 369, 371, 375Engelhartszell an der Donau
279-80Englischer Garten 271Erfurt 77, 79, 95-6, 99, 109-
10, 114Erzabtei St Peter 331Essen 152-3
FFairy Tale Road 143, 135-46fairy tales 142Feldkirch 297-8, 303Festung Hohensalzburg 330Festung Königstein 67food 400
best trips 22, 266, 360budget 25, 400eating out 25local specialities 209, 217,
382Frankfurt 21, 92-3, 94, 95, 99
walking tour 184-5Frankfurt (Oder) 84-5, 87Frankfurt Stock Exchange 184Frau Gerolds Garten 387Frauenau 229Frauenkirche 119, 270-1Freitag Tower 387French 405Freudenstadt 268, 269Freyburg 75Fribourg 358, 363Friedrichshafen 249, 253Friesisches Brauhaus zu
Jever 128fuel 24, 395Fulda 94, 138Füssen 222, 225, 238, 245Future Jüdisches Museum 186
GGarmisch-Partenkirchen
239, 241, 245gas 24, 395Gasthof Hirschen 300gay travellers 401Gedenkstätte 66, 86Gedenkstätte Seelower
Höhen 85Gendarmenmarkt 117
409
IND
EX C–G
Geneva 356-8, 363 walking tour 388-9
Gengenbach 260, 261Gerlos Alpine Road 289German 404-5Geroldsauer Wasserfälle 265Gherkin Country 86Giessbachfälle 371Gläserne Wald 232Goethe, Johann Wolfgang
von 96Goethe-Nationalmuseum 77,
96, 110Göhren 43Görlitz 64-5, 71, 98Goslar 105-6, 114Gotha 95Göttingen 141-2, 147Graz 310, 311, 324-5, 329Greetsiel 126-8Greifswald 42, 60, 61Grimm, Wilhelm & Jacob 142Grimmwelt 78, 139Grindelwald 369, 371-2Grossglockner High Alpine
Road 9, 288-9Grube Messel 194-5Gruyères 352, 353Güstrow 58-9, 61
HHall in Tirol 301-2Halle 98Hallstatt 320, 321Hambacher Schloss 123,
178-80Hamburg 130-1, 133Hamelin 143, 147Hanau 93, 136Hanover 52, 143-4Hanseatic League 44Harburg 217-18Heidelberg 196-7, 199, 203-4,
256-7
Helgoland 132highlights 8-11, 12-21hiking 275history 22, 69, 239, see also
WWI, WWIIHitler, Adolf 244HockenheimRing 198Hofburg 301, 332holidays 402Holocaust Memorial 116Husum 131
IIm Viadukt 386Innsbruck 291, 293, 301, 303insurance 391Interlaken 358-9, 363internet access 25, 401internet resources 25
JJagdschloss Granitz 43-4Jardin Anglais 388Jena 96-7, 110-11, 115Jever 128JOSKA Bodenmais 232Jungfraujoch 362
KKaiserdom 184-5Kammer 317Kandersteg 373Kassel 78, 139, 146Kellerwald-Edersee National
Park 139King Ludwig II 239
castles & palaces 19, 222-3, 238-9, 242-3
Kitzbühel 302, 303Klagenfurt 326, 329Kloster Chorin 86Kloster Machern 171-2Kniebis 268
Koblenz 161, 167, 174Kölner Dom 159, 186Kölnisches Stadtmuseum 187Kolumba 187Königssee 191, 244Konstanz 250-1, 253, 259,
261Krems an der Donau 282, 283Krimmler Wasserfälle 289Krupp Dynasty 154Kühlungsborn 40KZ-Gedenkstätte Mittelbau
Dora 109
LLake Geneva 15, 347-53,
355-63lakes 23Landeck 299-300Landsberg am Lech 221Landschaftspark Duisburg-
Nord 151-3languages 24, 404-5Lausanne 349-50, 353Lauterbrunnen 372Lavaux 337, 350, 353Leipzig 70, 71, 74-5, 97, 99,
113, 115lesbian travellers 401Lienz 288, 328, 329Ligerz 344, 345Liller’s Historische
Schlossmühle 172Lindau 237-8, 245, 248-9,
253Linz 280, 283literature 221Locarno 383-4Lorelei Sculpture 164Loreley 164Lorsch Abbey 196Lotharpfad 267-8Lübbenau 35, 83, 87Lübeck 38-9, 45
410410
IND
EX G–L
Lucerne 361, 363Ludwig II, see King Ludwig IILudwigslust 57Lugano 383, 385Lüneburg 56-7, 61
MMagdeburg 50, 53Main Tower 185Mainau Island 260Mainz 92, 166, 167Mannheim 203, 210maps 392Marburg 138-9, 146Märchenstrasse 143Marienplatz 270Matterhorn, the 337Mauthausen Memorial 280-1measures 397Meersburg 249-50, 258-9Mehliskopf 265-6Meissen 70Melk 281Migros Museum 386Millstatt 327Mittenwald 241-2mobile phones 25, 402Mondsee 316money 24, 25, 316, 401Montreux 350-1, 353Montreux Jazz Festival 351Moritzburg 69Moselle Valley 20, 169-75motorcycles, see drivingmountain railways 105mountains 22Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus
203, 302, 315, 331, 332Mozarts Geburtshaus 331Mühlhausen 107-8Mummelsee 266-7, 269Munich 243
walking tour 270-1
Münster 153-5, 251, 344, 359Müritz National Park 60Musée International de la
Réforme 389Museum der Bayerischen
Könige 216Museum der Moderne 330Museum Für Gestaltung
386-7Museum Sachsenhausen 86MuseumsQuartier 332music 395Müstair 381
NNationalpark Schwarzwald
268Naumburg 97Neubrandenburg 60, 61Neustadt an der Weinstrasse
180-1, 183Neustrelitz 59-60Norddeich 128, 133Nordkettenbahnen 291Nördlingen 217, 225NS Dokumentationszentrum
187Nuremberg 205, 207-8, 210Nyon 348-9, 353
OOberammergau 238Obertraun 319-20Oberwesel 161opening hours 401-2Ossiacher See 326-7Ottenhöfen 267
PPaderborn 154-5Parc des Bastions 389Pariser Platz 116-17parking 394-5
Passau 228-9, 233, 278-9, 283
Peak Walk by Tissot 352Peterskirche 248, 333petrol 24, 395Petronell-Carnuntum 307-8phone codes 402phonecards 403Pillnitz 68Pirna 68Place du Bourg-de-Four 389plugs 399-400Potsdamer Platz 116Prerow 42public holidays 402
QQuedlinburg 103-4, 114
Rradio 395Rappenlochschlucht 292Regensburg 230Reichstag 117Remagen 160Residenz 271Residenzplatz 331Residenzschloss 119Rheinfall 337, 343-4Rhine, the 14, 149-56, 157-68river cruises 165, 282rivers 23road distances 393road rules 392, 393-4road tolls 289Römerberg 185ropes courses 266Rorschach 251-2Rostock 41, 45Rothenburg ob der Tauber
205-6, 216-17, 224Rüdesheim 166, 167Rust 308, 311
411411
IND
EX L–R
SSaalfeld 112Saarbrücken 90-1safety 392-3, 395Salzburg 19, 275, 287-8, 302,
303, 314-15, 321 walking tour 330-1
sausages 209Saxon Switzerland National
Park 66scenic drives 15scenic villages 17Schaffhausen 342-3, 345Schiffbau 387Schiffshebewerk Niederfinow
85-6Schilthorn 372-3Schloss Arenenberg 342Schloss Branitz 84Schloss Esterházy 308Schloss Herrenchiemsee
242-3Schloss Hohenschwangau
239, 222-3Schloss Linderhof 238-9Schloss Neuschwanstein 19,
222-3, 239Schloss Riegersburg 310Schloss Schauenstein 383Schloss Wörlitz 52, 103Schmalkalden 108Schneeballen 217Schongau 221Schoppernau 298Schwäbisch Hall 204-5, 210Schweigen-Rechtenbach 178Schwerin 35, 58, 61Seeschloss Ort 318Semperoper 118Sils-Maria 382-3, 385Silvretta High Alpine Road 292Site Archéologique de la
Cathédrale St-Pierre 388-9
skiing 275snowballs 217Soest 154-5Sound of Music, the 319spas 265Spittal an der Drau 327-8Spreewald 35, 83Staatsoper 333Städel Museum 185Stanserhorn 361St Anton am Arlberg 298-9St Florian 280St Gallen 340-1St Gilgen 315St Goar 164, 167St Gotthard Pass 384St Moritz 382, 385St-Saphorin 21St Wolfgang 318Starkenberger Biermythos
300Stein am Rhein 342, 345Steinau 93-4, 136-7Stephansdom 333Stift Göttweig 282Stift Neuzelle 84, 87Stift Nonnberg 315, 330Stift Stams 301Stralsund 42-3, 45Stubaital 292Stuttgart 257-8swimming 275Swiss Alps, the 9, 17, 347-53,
355-63, 364-75Swiss National Park 380-1Sylt 123, 131-2, 133
TTauberbischofsheim 215-16telephone services 25, 402the Rhine 14, 149-56, 157-68,thermal baths 70-1, 260, 265Therme Vals 367
time 350, 397tipping 25, 401Tiroler Schnapsroute 298Tittling 229, 233toilets 403Topographie des Terrors 117tourist information 403tours 319Traben-Trarbach 172, 175train travel 396-7transport 25, 160, 396, see
also drivingTraunkirchen 318, 321Travemünde 39-40travel seasons 24Tremola Road 337Trier 170-1, 175TV 397
UUnesco Biosphere Entlebuch
361Unterach am Attersee 316
VVals 367-8Velden am Wörthersee 326Via Mala 383Vienna 14, 28, 282, 283,
306, 311walking tour 332-3
Viktualienmarkt 270Vinorama 350visas 24, 403
WWagner, Richard 239Walderlebnis-station
Hundseck 266walking tours
Berlin 116-7Cologne 186-7Dresden 118-9
412412
IND
EX S–W
Frankfurt 184-5Geneva 388-9Munich 270-1Salzburg 330-1Vienna 332-3Zürich 386-7
Wallfahrtskirche Birnau 250Wallraf-Richartz-Museum
186-7Waren 59Warnemünde 41weather 24websites 25Weesenstein 68Weiden 232, 233weights 397Weikersheim 216Weimar 48, 53, 76-7, 79,
96, 110Weissensee 328Werfen 288, 293Wernigerode 104-5Wieskirche 221-2Wiesloch 197-8
wi-fi 25, 401Wildgehege Breitenbrunnen
266Wilhelmshöhe 139-40, 146Willy Wonka & the Chocolate
Factory 217wine & wine regions 21, 123,
310, 372driving tours 22, 177-83Moselle Valley 20, 169-75
Wismar 40, 45Wissembourg (France) 180Wolfsburg 50-1, 53Wörlitz Park 52Würzburg 214-15, 224Würzburg Residenz 214WWI 131WWII 69, 131, 244
XXanten 152, 155
ZZell 172-3Zell am See 289Zell am Ziller 289, 291, 293Zeppelin NT 249Zermatt 374Zumdorf 368Zuoz 381-2, 385Zürich 19, 29, 362, 363
walking tour 386-7Zwiesel 230, 233Zwinger 118
413413
IND
EX W–Z
Benedict Walker Benedict got his driving licence a little later than most and made up for lost time fast: he’s at his happiest behind the wheel on a country road, music blaring. Having lost a few years buzzing around the backroads of Australia, NZ, Japan, Canada and the US, he found it was an honour to get back to Germany’s jaw-dropping history, culture and verdant nature.
My Favourite Trip 8 German Avenues Route I love how much this trip packs in without being exhausting, just a hop-skip-and-a-jump from the headiness of Berlin.
Ryan Ver Berkmoes Ryan once lived in Germany. He spent three years in Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine until he got a chance for a new career with... Lonely Planet. One of his first jobs was working on LP’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish, which serves him well in the north, and he loves beer, which serves him well everywhere in Germany. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb.
Read more about Ryan at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb
Read more about Andrea at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andreaschultepeevers
Andrea Schulte-Peevers Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has written about her native land for two decades and authored or contributed to some 80 Lonely Planet titles, including all editions of the Germany country guide and the Berlin city guide. Andrea discovered her love for road trips while living in California for nearly 20 years and now puts pedal to the metal crisscrossing Europe from her home base in Berlin.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Read more about Catherine at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez
Catherine Le Nevez Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she first roadtripped across Europe – including Germany and Austria – aged four, and she’s been roadtripping here ever since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. A freelance writer for decades, over the last dozen-or-so years she has written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering destinations all over Europe and beyond.
My Favourite Trip d Moselle Valley This is Germany at its most magical: hilltop castles, half-timbered villages, vineyards in every direction, and truly exceptional wines.
Read more about Tom at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/tommasters
Tom Masters Tom hails from London, but has lived in Berlin since 2009 and has travelled widely all over Germany in that time. During research for this book, he particularly enjoyed his time discovering Leipzig’s secret life beyond the Altstadt, walking in Saxon Switzerland, the gorgeousness that is Görlitz and getting to know Dresden. More of Tom’s work can be found online at www.tommasters.net.
Marc Di Duca A well-established travel guide author, Marc has explored many corners of Germany over the last 25 years but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg ob der Tauber or brewery hopping in Bamberg, he can be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his wife, Tanya, and their two sons.
Read more about Marc at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu
Sally O’Brien Australian-born Sally, a Lonely Planet writer since 2001, has called Switzerland home since 2007. Swapping her surfboard for a snowboard, the beach for the lake and the BBQ for the caquelon, she loves exploring Switzerland’s charming cities, the sublime Alps and lakes, and catching cable cars and trains to stunning vantage points. It’s only fitting that she became a naturalised Swiss citizen while on the road for this guide. She lives with her husband, Denis, and their sons in the Lake Geneva region. Sally tweets @swissingaround.
Read more about Sally at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/swissingaround
415
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –
broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Read more about Kerri at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/KerryChristiani
Kerry Christiani Having lived for six years in the Black Forest, Kerry returned to this neck of the woods (her second home) to write her chapters. Summer hikes in the forest, bike rides on Lake Constance and going on the trail of Mozart and Maria in Salzburg kept her busy for this edition. She tweets @kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com.
Read more about Nicola at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/NicolaWilliams
Nicola Williams Border hopping is a way for life for British writer Nicola Williams, who lives on Lake Geneva’s southern shore. Every journey from her lakeside home begins with a boat ride across Europe’s largest lake or a drive around its vine-stitched shore. When not road-tripping for work, she can be found motoring with her trio of trilingual kids to Germany to visit family in Cologne (and celebrate Karneval), to Switzerland to ski beside the Aletsch Glacier, to Austria to hike childhood haunts … Follow her travels at @Tripalong.
My Favourite Trip w The Swiss Alps For outdoor action and top of-the-world views.
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Peenem
ünde
Anklam
Neubrandenburg
Waren
Güstrow
Alfeld
Celle
Salzgitter
Halberstadt
Minden
Paderborn
Ludenscheid
Wetzlar
Eisenach
Mühlburg
Weim
ar
Prerow
Görlitz
Moritzburg
Gedenkstätte
Buchenw
aldPillnitzB
adSchandau
Emden
Husum
Düren
Schweinfurt
Bockenheim
an derW
einstrasse
Schw
eigen-R
echtenbach
Heidelberg
Heilbronn
Stuttgart
Tübingen
Wiesloch
Weiden
Rötz
Baden-
BadenFreudenstadt
Bam
berg
Nurem
berg
Neuschw
anstein &H
ohenschwangau
Castles
Passau
Steyr
Salzkamm
ergut
Königssee
Lindau
Hallstatt
Lienz
Nyon
Gruyères
Zermatt
Arosa
Kreuzlingen
Basel
Winterthur
Esbjerg
Odense
Malm
ö
Interlaken
Konstanz
Landsbergam
Lech
Chiavenna
Bolzano
Weser
Rhein
Inn
Rhein Ems
Doubs
Donau (Danube)
Main
Rhein
Elbe
Mur
Drau
Donau (Danube)
Rhine
Moselle
Donau (D
anube)
Kellerw
aldN
ational Park
Kellerw
ald-Edersee
National Park
Brocken(1141m
)
Hohe A
cht(747m
)
Feldberg(1493m
)
Matterhorn(3883m
)
Grossglockner
(3798m)
Mt Blanc
(4807m)
Zugspitze(2963m
)
Vaalserberg(321m
)
Triglav(2864m
)
Signal deBotrange
(694m)
Monte R
osa(4634m
)
Finsteraarhorn(4274m
)
Buurgplaatz(559m
)
Kniebis
Schilthorn(2970m
)
Stanserhorn
FG8
FG 10
FG8
FG 10
FG 10
FG 12
FG 16
FG 16
FG 17
FG 17FG 19
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FG1
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FG2
FG3
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FG7
FG8
FG 11
FG 11
FG9
FG9
FG 12FG 13
FG 15
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FG 20FG 20
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FG 28FG 30
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FG 29#\
FG 33
FG 33
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1313
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POLA
ND
CZECH
REPUB
LIC
SLOVEN
IA
ITALY
FRAN
CE
NETH
ERLAND
S
DEN
MA
RK
0100
km0
50miles
# e
SWED
EN
Elevation
Legend
1
500m300m200m100m0m
1000m1500m2000m3000m5000m
Primary R
dTollw
ay/Freeway
Water Feature
Highlight
Start Point of Each Trip
Our Favourite Trips
The Romantic Road
10 Days Start: W
ürzburg (E9) End: Neuschw
an- stein &
Hohenschw
angau Castles (F12)O
n this trip you’ll experience medieval
walled tow
ns, gabled townhouses and
cobbled squares, all preserved as if time
has come to a standstill.
German Castle Road
7 Days Start: M
annheim (D9) End: Bayreuth (G9)
On this trip you’ll follow
a ribbon of fairy-tale castles that w
inds its way
across Germ
any’s south, along with
the wonderful historic tow
ns that host them
.
Romantic Rhine
5–7 Days Start: Düsseldorf (C7) End: M
ainz (D9)W
atch epic scenery unfold as G
ermany’s R
omantic R
hine valley carves betw
een towering cliffs clad
in forest and capped by castles, to delightful M
ainz.
German Avenues
Route 5–7 Days
Start/End: Dessau-Rosslau (G6) T
his quintessential Germ
an road trip, along the tree-lined avenues of the H
arz Mountains and country highw
ays of central G
ermany, leaves no stone
unturned.
German Fairy Tale
Road 5 Days
Start: Hanau (D8) End: Brem
erhaven (D4)You’ll certainly end this trip happy, having explored a beautiful sw
ath of G
ermany and learned the real stories
behind Brothers Grim
m fairy tales.
The Swiss Alps
7 Days Start: Arosa (E13) End: Zerm
att (C14)T
his zigzagging trip is the A to Z
of Switzerland’s astounding A
lpine scenery, w
ith majestic peaks, form
id- able panoram
as, cable-car rides and local charm
.
Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days
Start: Salzburg (H1) End: Bregenz (E12)
This trip takes you on a wild roller-
coaster drive over three legendary Alpine
passes and packs in outdoor activities from
skiing to windsurfing and w
hite-w
ater rafting.
German Alpine Road
7 Days Start: Lindau (E12) End: Königssee (H
12)T
his exciting drive winds through the
foothills of the Bavarian Alps, taking
in romantic castles, lakes of drinkable
pure water and high peaks w
hose m
antle of snow rem
ains year-round.
PULL-OUT MAP
P
Paderborn D6Passau H11Peenemünde
H3Pforzheim D10Pillnitz J7Plzeň H9Pöchlarn K11Potsdam H5Prague J9Prerow G3
R
Regen H10Regensberg
G10Rennweg H13Rhein
C11-C14-D13Rhine B6Rostock G3Rötz G10
S
Saarbrücken C10
Salzburg H12Salzgitter F6Salzkammer-
gut J12Schilthorn
(2970m) C13Schweigen-
Rechten-bach D10
Schweinfurt E9
Schwerin G4Schwyz D13Siegen D7Signal de
Botrange (694m) B8
Solingen C7St Gallen E12Stanserhorn
D13Starnberger
See F12Stein am
Rhein D12Steinhuder
Meer E5Steyr J11Stralsund H3Strasbourg C11Stuttgart E10Suhl F8Szczecin J4
T
Thonon-les-Bains B13
Traun J11Traunsee H12Travemünde F3Trier B9Triglav
(2864m) J14Tübingen D11
U
Ulm E11
V
Vaalserberg (321m) B7
Varese D14Vienna L11
W
Waren H4Warnemünde
G3Weiden G9Weimar F7Weser E5Wetzlar D8Wiesbaden D8Wiesloch D10Wilmhelms-
haven D4Winterthur
D12Wismar G3Wolfsburg F5Wuppertal C7Würzburg E9
Z
Zermatt C14Zuger See D13Zugspitze
(2963m) F12
Zürich D12
Zürich See D12Zwickau G8
Graz K13Greifswald H3Groningen C4Grossglock-
ner (3798m) H13
Gruyères C13Güstrow G3
H
Halberstadt F6
Halle G7Hallstatt H12Hamburg E4Hanau D8Hanover E5Heidelberg D9Heilbronn E10Hildesheim E6Hohe Acht
(747m) C8Hoyerswerda
J7Husum E2
I
IJsselmeer A5Ingolstadt F10Inn G12Innsbruck F12Interlaken C13
J
Jena G7Jever C4
K
Kaiserslau-tern C9
Karlsruhe D10Kassel E7Kellerwald
National Park E7
Kellerwald-Edersee National Park D7
Kiel F3Klagenfurt J13Kniebis D11Koblenz C8Königssee H12Konstanz D12Krefeld C7Kreuzlingen
D12Kühlungsborn
G3
L
Lago di Como D14
Lago di Garda F15
Lago di Luga-no -Ceresio D14
Lago Mag-giore D15
Lake Geneva B14
Landsberg am Lech F11
Landshut G11Laussane B13Leeuwarden
B4Leipzig G7Lienz H13Ligerz C12Lindau E12Linz J11Locarno D14Lübeck F3Lucerne D13Ludenscheid
C7Lüneburg F4Lutherstadt
Wittenberg G6
M
Magdeburg G6
Main F9Mainz D9Malmö H1Mannheim D9Maribor K13Martigny C14Matterhorn
(3883m) C14Minden E5Monte Rosa
(4634m) C14
Moritzburg H7Moselle B11Mritz G4Mt Blanc
(4807m) B14
Mühlburg F7Mulhouse C12Munich G11Münster C6Mur J13
N
Neubranden-burg H4Neuchatel
B13Neuschwan-
stein & Hohen-schwangau Castles F12
Neusiedler See L11
Nijmegen B6Norddeich C4North See C2Nuremberg
F9Nyon B13
O
Odense F1Oldenburg D4Osnabruck D5
A
Aachen B7Adriatic Sea
H15Ahrenshoop
G3Alfeld E6Ammersee
F11Anklam H3Arosa E13Attersee H12Augsburg F11
B
Bad Doberan G3
Bad Schandau J7
Baden-Baden D10
Baltic See J2Bamberg F9Basel C12Bayreuth G9Bergisch
Gladbach C7Berlin H5Bern C13Bielefeld D6Bieler See
C13
Biella C15Binz H3Bockenheim
an der Wein-strasse D9
Bodensee D12
Bonn C8Bratislava L11Braunschweig
F6Bregenz E12Bremen E4Bremerhaven
D4Brienzer See
C13Brocken
(1141m) F6Buurgplaatz
(559m) B8
C
Celle E5Chamonix
B14Chemnitz H8Chiavenna
E14Chiemsee
G12Chur E13
Colmar C11Cologne C7Como D14Cottbus J6
D
Darmstadt D9Dessau-
Rosslau G6Donau
(Danube) D12-G10-K11
Dortmund C6Doubs B12Drau H13Dresden H7Duisburg C6Düren B7Düsseldorf C7
E
Eisenach F7Elbe G5Emden C4Ems C5Enschede C5Erfurt F7Erlangen F9Esbjerg D1
F
Feldberg (1493m) C11
Finste-raarhorn (4274m) D13
Flensburg E2Frankfurt D8Freiburg C11Freising G11Freudenstadt
D11Freyburg G7
G
Gedenkstätte Buchenwald F7
Gelsenkir-chen C6
Geneva B14Gengenbach
D11Gera G7Giessen D8Gmunden J12Göhren H3Görlitz J7Gotha F7Göttingen E7Grafenau H10
Baltic Sea
Mritz
SteinhuderMeer
NeusiedlerSee
Adriatic Sea
Lago diGarda
Lagodi Como
Lago diLugano -Ceresio
LagoMaggiore
LakeGeneva
Neuchatel
BrienzerSee
ZugerSee
ZürichSee
BodenseeStarnberger
See
Ammersee
Chiemsee
Bieler See
IJsselmeer
NORTH SEE
AtterseeTraunsee
St Gallen
Plzeň
Strasbourg
Osnabruck
Hildesheim
BielefeldMünster
Göttingen
Halle
KrefeldWuppertal
Solingen
BergischGladbach
Gera
ChemnitzAachen
Bonn
Zwickau
Suhl
Wiesbaden
DarmstadtWürzburg
Kaiserslautern
RegensbergKarlsruhe
Freising
Freiburg
Flensburg
Kiel
Wilmhelmshaven
Bremerhaven
Oldenburg
Groningen
Enschede
Nijmegen
Szczecin
Zürich
LucerneBern
Laussane
Linz
Salzburg
Innsbruck
Graz
Geneva
Saarbrücken
Gelsenkirchen
Potsdam
Maribor
Freyburg
Koblenz
Mainz
Trier
Mannheim
Rostock
Wolfsburg
GothaJena
Kassel
Braunschweig
Magdeburg
Jever
Augsburg
DortmundDuisburg
Cologne
Hamburg
Bremen
Düsseldorf
Lübeck
Erfurt
Hanover
Schwerin
Dresden
Frankfurt
Bregenz
Leipzig
Munich
Pöchlarn BRATISLAVAVIENNA
BERLIN
PRAGUE
Ulm
Ligerz
Thonon-les-Bains
Martigny
Locarno
Schwyz
Chur
Stein am Rhein
Gengenbach
Ingolstadt
Landshut
Pforzheim
ComoVarese
Biella
Chamonix
Colmar
Mulhouse
Traun
Gmunden
Rennweg
Klagenfurt
Regen
Grafenau
Wismar
StralsundBinz
Lüneburg
Dessau-Rosslau
LutherstadtWittenberg
Cottbus
Hoyerswerda
Leeuwarden
Siegen
Giessen
Norddeich
Bayreuth
Erlangen
Hanau
Travemünde
KühlungsbornWarnemünde
Ahrenshoop
BadDoberan
Greifswald
Göhren
Peenemünde
Anklam
NeubrandenburgWaren
Güstrow
Alfeld
Celle
Salzgitter
Halberstadt
Minden
Paderborn
Ludenscheid
Wetzlar
Eisenach
Mühlburg
Weimar
Prerow
GörlitzMoritzburg
GedenkstätteBuchenwald Pillnitz
BadSchandau
Emden
Husum
Düren
Schweinfurt
Bockenheiman derWeinstrasse
Schweigen-Rechtenbach
Heidelberg
Heilbronn
Stuttgart
Tübingen
Wiesloch
Weiden
Rötz
Baden-Baden
Freudenstadt
Bamberg
Nuremberg
Neuschwanstein &HohenschwangauCastles
Passau
Steyr
Salzkammergut
Königssee
Lindau
Hallstatt
Lienz
NyonGruyères
Zermatt
Arosa
KreuzlingenBasel
Winterthur
Esbjerg
Odense
Malmö
Interlaken
Konstanz
Landsbergam Lech
Chiavenna
Bolzano
Weser
Rhein
Inn
Rhei
n
Ems
Doubs
Donau (Danube)
Main
Rhein
Elbe
Mur
Drau
Donau (Danube)
Rhine
Moselle
Donau (Danube)
KellerwaldNational Park
Kellerwald-Edersee
National Park
Brocken(1141m)
Hohe Acht(747m)
Feldberg(1493m)
Matterhorn(3883m)
Grossglockner(3798m)
Mt Blanc(4807m)
Zugspitze(2963m)
Vaalserberg(321m)
Triglav(2864m)
Signal deBotrange
(694m)
Monte Rosa(4634m)
Finsteraarhorn(4274m)
Buurgplaatz(559m)
Kniebis
Schilthorn(2970m)
Stanserhorn
FG8
FG10
FG8FG10
FG10
FG12
FG16
FG16
FG17
FG17 FG19FG19
FG32
FG24
FG24
FG24
FG32
#\
FG1
FG1
FG2FG2
FG2
FG3
FG3
FG4FG4FG5FG5
FG6
FG7
FG7
FG8
FG11
FG11
FG9
FG9
FG12FG13
FG15
FG16
FG19
FG18
FG20
FG20
FG22
FG21
FG23
FG25
FG25
FG26
FG26
FG27
FG28
FG28FG30
FG31
FG31
FG31
FG29
FG29#\
FG33
FG33
6
7
8
9
10
A B C D
2
3
4
5
1
HFE G J
11
12
6
7
8
9
10
2
3
4
5
1
11
12
A B C D HFE G J K L M
K L M
13 13
14 14
15 15
POLAND
CZECH REPUBLIC
SLOVENIA
ITALY
FRANCE
NETHERLANDS
DENMARK
0 100 km0 50 miles#e
SWEDEN
Elevation
Legend
1
500m300m200m100m
0m
1000m1500m2000m3000m5000m
Primary RdTollway/Freeway
Water FeatureHighlight
Start Point of Each Trip
Our Favourite Trips
Northern Switzerland
1 Along the Baltic Coast 5 DaysStart: Lübeck (F3) End: Binz (H3)From Lübeck to Rügen Island, celebrate the bracing, beautiful Baltic.
2 Design for Life: Bauhaus to VW 2–4 Days Start: Weimar (F7) End: Hanover (E5)Drive through the evocative industrial heart of the old East Germany (GDR).
3 Lakes & Treasures of Mecklenburg–Western Pomerania 2–3 DaysStart: Lüneburg (F4) End: Greifswald (H3)Palaces and jewel-box towns dot land that’s also dotted with lakes.
4 Highlights of Saxony 5–7 DaysStart: Görlitz (J7) End: Leipzig (G7)Follow one of Germany’s great rivers past palaces and fortresses to Dresden.
5 Central Germany’s Castles & Palaces 3–5 Days Start: Leipzig (G7) End: Kassel (E7)Through Germany’s heartland from Leipzig to Kassel, with castles and lavish palaces.
6 Berlin & the Jewels of Eastern Brandenburg 4 DaysStart: Berlin (H5) End: Gedenkstätte & Museum Sachsenhausen (H5)A tantalising tour to a watery forest, WWII sites and medieval marvels.
7 Via Regia 5–7 Days Start: Saarbrücken (C10) End: Görlitz (J7)The German portion of the longest historic road link across Europe.
8 German Avenues Route 5–7 Days Start/End: Dessau-Rosslau (G6)Follow one of Germany’s most picturesque, tree-lined driving routes, which includes Dresden and Leipzig.
9 North Sea Coast 5–7 Days Start: Emden (C4) End: Sylt (D2)A summer jaunt from Emden along the Wattenmeer coast to Sylt.
a German Fairy Tale Road 5 DaysStart: Hanau (D8) End: Bremerhaven (D4)Learn the fantasies and the horrors in the stories of the Brothers Grimm.
b Cologne & the Ruhr Valley 4 Days Start: Cologne (C7) End: Paderborn (D6)From Romans to titans, iron to culture, this drive is about power.
c Romantic Rhine 5–7 DaysStart: Düsseldorf (C7) End: Mainz (D9)Fall under the spell of the castle-lined riverscape along the world-famous Rhine.
d Moselle Valley 2–4 DaysStart: Trier (B9) End: Koblenz (C8)Wind through the winery-filled Moselle from historic Trier to the river’s end.
e German Wine Route 2–4 Days Start: Schweigen-Rechtenbach (D10) End: Bockenheim an der Weinstrasse (D9)Bookended by twin gates, this picturesque route links up charming vine-draped villages.
f Bergstrasse 2–4 Days Start: Darmstadt (D9) End: Wiesloch (D10)A diverse route following an old Roman trade route.
g German Castle Road 7 DaysStart: Mannheim (D9) End: Bayreuth (G9)Castles, palaces and fortresses galore along this route from Mannheim to Bayreuth.
h The Romantic Road 10 DaysStart: Würzburg (E9) End: Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau Castles (F12)A ribbon of historical quaintness running through Bavaria’s western reaches.
i Glass Route 7 DaysStart: Passau (H11) End: Weiden (G9)A glass-themed drive through eastern Bavaria’s under-visited and thickly forested border regions.
j German Alpine Road 7 DaysStart: Lindau (E12) End: Königssee (H12)Take the high road through Germany’s slice of Europe’s top peaks.
k Lake Constance 7 DaysStart: Lindau (E12) End: Bregenz (E12)A circular tri-state route around one of Europe’s most attractive lakes.
l Fantastic Road 4–6 DaysStart/End: Heidelberg (D9) Fascinating ring through Baden-Württemberg running through a chunk of the Black Forest.
m Schwarzwaldhoch- strasse 2–4 DaysStart: Baden-Baden (D10) End: Freudenstadt (D11)High-altitude motoring through the magnificent landscapes of the Black Forest.
n Along the Danube 2–4 DaysStart: Passau (H11) End: Vienna (L11)Follow the Danube River as it flows through forests and vineyards.
o Grossglockner Road 5–7 DaysStart: Salzburg (H12) End: Bregenz (E12)Twist and turn along three of Austria’s most spectacular mountain passes.
p Tyrol & Vorarlberg 5–7 DaysStart: Bregenz (E12) End: Salzburg (H12)Walk through wildflower-filled pastures and savour local produce on this alpine route.
q Castles of Burgenland 2–4 DaysStart: Vienna (L11) End: Graz (K13)Visit castles and palaces along with celebrated wineries between Vienna and Graz.
r Salzkammergut 5–7 DaysStart/End: Salzburg (H12)Spin around the Salzkammergut’s jewel-like lakes beneath towering snow-capped mountains.
s Carinthian Lakes 2–4 DaysStart: Graz (K13) End: Lienz (H13)Swim, boat, water ski or just unwind along ‘Austria’s Riviera’, the Carinthian Lakes.
t Northern Switzerland 3 DaysStart: St Gallen (E12) End: Ligerz (C12)Architectural marvels and epic water features colour this oft-overlooked northern delight.
u Lake Geneva & Western Switzerland 4 DaysStart: Geneva (B14) End: Gruyères (C13)A glorious lake, stunning vineyards, enchanting villages and fairy-tale castles.
v Geneva to Zürich 7 DaysStart: Geneva (B14) End: Zürich (D12)Mountains, pastures, lakes and small-town charm, book-ended by Switzerland’s biggest cities.
w The Swiss Alps 7 DaysStart: Arosa (E13) End: Zermatt (C14)The greatest of the great outdoors: perfect peaks, gorgeous glaciers, verdant valleys.
x Graubünden & Ticino 5 DaysStart: Chur (E13) End: St Gotthard Pass (D14)Big-sky wilderness, off-the-beaten-track beauty, pretty towns and unique local flavours.
GERMANY, AUSTRIA & SWITZERLAND’S BEST TRIPS 19fnt Trip numbers reflect book order; colours indicate chapter region.1 Top SightsHIGHLIGHTS
Vienna L11Park up and indulge in pedestrian meanderings around imperial Habsburg palaces and castles of unimaginable grandeur. Talk, read, dream and indulge like Trotsky and Freud did in a Viennese coffee house.
Visit Vienna on Trips nr
Berlin H5It oozes glamour and grit, teems with top museums and world-famous landmarks that have to be seen. If you love great nightlife, you might dump the car and never leave.
Visit Berlin on Trip 6
Lake Geneva B14East along the shore of Europe’s largest lake, nothing prepares you for the dazzling spectacle of emerald vines marching uphill from the water in the Lavaux wine region.
Visit Lake Geneva on Trips uv
The Swiss Alps C14After a relentless succession of dramatic green peaks, Alpine lakes, glacial ravines and other hallucinatory natural landscapes, you finally pull into Zermatt, built around the iconic Matterhorn. Nothing prepares for that first unforgettable glance.
Visit the Swiss Alps on Trips uvw
Schloss Neuschwanstein F12King Ludwig II’s crazy castle rises from Bavaria’s mysterious forest like a storybook illustration. Inside, the make-believe continues. Said to have inspired Walt’s castle at Disney World, it now inspires tourist masses.
Visit Schloss Neuschwanstein on Trip h
Zürich D12This German-speaking Swiss city is a hipster delight with a quaint Old Town, great art and shopping, waterfront bars and dancing till dawn in Züri-West.
Visit Zürich on Trip v
Salzburg H12Mozart’s birthplace is also a baroque masterpiece and Austria’s spiritual heartland. The city stands proud on the banks of the Salzach River, above which rise the Altstadt (old town) and clifftop-fortress Festung Hohensalzburg.
Visit Salzburg on Trips opq
Dresden H7This Saxon city is dubbed ‘Florence on the Elbe’ for good reason. Reconstructed architectural jewels pair with stunning art collections to justify Dresden’s place in the pantheon of European cultural capitals.
Visit Dresden on Trip 4
Moselle Valley C8The downstream drive along the serpentine Moselle River is a go-slow, curvaceous affair with gorgeous castles and storybook half-timbered villages. It’s topped by exhilarating walks through some of the world’s steepest vineyards.
Visit the Moselle Valley on Trip d
Frankfurt D8Germany’s financial capital brims with cultural and culinary excitement beneath a corporate demeanour. Discover its soul with an espresso in an old-time cafe, museum-hop along the riverbank, or wash down local fare in an old-world tavern.
Visit Frankfurt on Trip 7
HIGHLIGHTS
INDEX OF PLACES
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