G Year XXII No. 1 - February 2015 € 2 RAPEVINE · duced to the work of Raffaello Isola. His...

€ 2

The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan cultureGRAPEVINEGRAPEVINE

The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan culture

Year XXII No. 1 - February 2015Year XXII No. 1 - February 2015 € 2

WHAT’S

ON IN &

AROUND

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WHAT’S

ON IN &

AROUND

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2 - February 2015 GRAPEVINE

Editorial

Love is all around, and we find it in the most amazing places. In the angels floating down from the ceilings of churches, in the souls sacrificed for noble causes or for no reason at all, in the romantic moments when magic passes between two people, in delicious treats for the palate and the eye and the ear (thank you God for giving us at least five senses!), in the kindness of neighbors who bring help (or even tomatoes) just when we need it most.

And have you noticed how many dog lovers there are in Lucca? It's doggy heaven – they get a great run on the Walls, or at the beach. I've even seen a little poodle riding in a baby carriage!

Mother love is the most magical of all. It is the finest example of self-sacrifice in the world (see page 7). But like the cacti or roses in our gardens even mother love sometimes comes with thorns…

Look inside our magazine this month and you'll find lots of reasons to love being in Italy. For highlights of What's On throughout the year, please look at our webpage pull-down under “Useful Information”. February is Carnival time. In March the camellias in bloom are celebrated with a huge festival at Sant'Andrea di Compito, followed in April by the Azalea Festival at Borgo a Mozzano and the flower festival for Santa Zita in Lucca. Not to be missed is Pisa's medieval birthday party on March 25th.

Hemingway said that Paris was a moveable feast. I would say the same is true for Tuscany.

Happy Valentine's Day!

VIA ACQUACALDA (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

from www.cartapesta.net

ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

Founded (1994) by Susan Jarman

EditorsNorma Jean BishopSilvano Simi

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopCarol BurnettClaudia CasoliDavid CollinsJudith EdwardsSilvia ForlaiSimone LippiSamuel OsbourneMarco PalamidessiFrancis PettittJenny SchutzKaren Vander

Cover:Angels spilling from the heavensSanta Caterina Church, Luccaby Grapevine

GRAPEVINE February 2015 - 3

2015February

Grapevine Magazine - Via Francesconi 2, S. Ginese di Compito 55012 Lucca, Italy - Tel. 0583 909012 - Fax 0583 908849 - Mobile 333 8617962 - Skype: susan.jarman.rosalind - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com Printed by Myck Press srl Calcinaia (PI). Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca no. 629 del 13 dicembre 1994 Iscrizione CCIAA - Lucca no. 199169. Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the editors. © Grapevine Magazine - © What’s On In & AroundThe listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editors or of the Direttore Responsabile.

Chef Paolo Monti's Cooking School,highly rated on Tripadvisor.

for food lovers and professionals alike! Daily cooking classes, fresh pasta and

sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan class, risotto, pizza, focaccia,

Chef Paolo's favorite dishes. Classes are hands-on, taught in a relaxed fun atmosphere. Participants cook most

dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home made liqueurs.

Monday to Sunday 10am to 2.30pm. Afternoon classes upon request.Info:

Via di Sant'Alessio no. 3684, LuccaTel 0583 329970 338 6718641

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Open every day for lunch and dinner.Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus and artichokes. Specialties from the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina

(T.Bone steak), lamb and mixed grill.

Specialized in seafood dishes,with fresh fish every day!

4 special menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti for you. Special Dinner with demo in the

cooking class kitchen, by reservation only.

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In the green of the Lucca countryside, 10 minutes from the center attached to the cooking school, four newly remodelled Tuscan style apartments, with terracotta tiles on the floor, wooden beams on the ceiling, wrought iron beds, cooking facilities … but with modern

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Chef Paolo Monti's Restaurant La Cantina Di Carignano

Try Chef Paolo Monti's Tasting menus

Art/Music/Books/Beauty

Tradition/History

Food and Drink

Home and Garden

What's OnMarkets MuseumsCrosswordClassified Advertising

AML Initiates Another Splendid Season 4Homage to Puccini 4Raffaello Isola: Coming Full Circle in Lucca 5A Not So Serious Interview: Marco Palamidessi 8Si Vede la Primavera 20Book Review: Pieces of Molly 21

Bargiglio, The Eye of Lucca 6Remembering: Sant’Anna di Stazzema 7Forte dei Marmi, City of Satire

La Dolce Vita 10Villa Bongi 19The Oste with the Most 21

Our Garden Awakens 22Tuscan Country Homes: Access Roads 23… and it's got a Bread Oven 24

25

Visit us at our the new office & garden:

inside Porta S. Donato (Centro Storico, in Pelleria)Via delle Conce 25

(parking is in Piazza Verdi or outside the Walls)


beautifully performed by the historic banda musicale of Segromigno even though the Associazione Musicale Lucchese was (led by Maestro Silvano Pieruccini) and by the soloists (Ilaria Casai, holding its inaugural concert at the Boccherini Auditorium soprano, Laura Masini, mezzo soprano, Nicola Gerbi, baritone). L at the very same time, also to a capacity audience! In the Throughout the first half of the concert, soprano Mirella di Vita,

case of the Giglio, we have to say that over 100 singers and 80 elegantissima in a dark green gown, made the most special impression musicians on stage were an impressive number as well. The children's both for her wonderful lyric voice and for her charming stage presence. chorus sang to great effect La sui monti dell'Est from Turandot. And The funds earned through the ticket sales will go towards a the recently discovered Mass written in the early 1900s by Giacomo UNICEF project aimed at helping children orphaned by Ebola, Puccini's esteemed friend from Buti, Ciro Belloni Filippi, was approximately 3700 of them in several African countries.

ucca's Teatro del Giglio was packed on Sunday 11 January,

Homage to Puccini

AML InitiatesAnother Splendid Season

In January the Associazione Musicale Lucchese began its new season with excellent Italian musicians. The warm and welcoming Boccherini Auditorium in Piazza dei Servi was an ideal venue. These concerts are always amazing! See page 28 for the upcoming events.

PHOTOGRAPHS (courtesy of the AML): (1) 11 January: S. Soldati, G. Ragghianti, A. Bologni, L. Mozza, F. Merlini, G. Barutti(2) 18 January: Lorenza Borrani & Matteo Fossi(3) 25 January: Silvia Chiesa & Maurizio Baglini(4) 31 January/1 February: G. Bandini, C. Chiacchiaretta, F. Cerrato, S. Cerrato

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

In the spring of 1991, Lietta and her Lucca, when I was in the pub- younger sister Ilaria took us to visit Collodi, lic library trying to get the where their grandfather Ildebrando N address of the National Dama Baiocchi was born and where he and his

Association and not getting my question wife resided in the summer to evade Lucca's understood by the librarian, a lovely heat. That day we saw a house in Collodi-woman with a Welsh accent came over and Castello that with great courage Ilaria had asked: kin I help yew? just bought. It was a ruin but she knew a

Lietta Roberts was a sixty-something, work of art when she saw it. Her new agelessly elegant Lucchese who had just neighbor Vera told us that there was a house returned home to Lucca after 40 years in for sale just 100 meters up the hill from Swansea, Wales. She solved my questions in Ilaria's new project. We bought it the next a heartbeat and offered to take a walk around week even though we spoke no Italian and the Walls on this balmy spring afternoon. had no clue as far as masonry work or any We shared stories and histories, including other skill for restoring a 15th-century stone one about her artist father. She invited me up village house in the Paese di Pinocchio. We to her apartment to see some of his paintings just jumped in and stayed with it until we museum to give personal tours or to answer and there in her converted tower I was intro- were done, which might have been never, questions, at no cost and with great plea-duced to the work of Raffaello Isola. His except that we ran out of space. sure. When I asked her to describe her work is bold with strong brush strokes, self- Last week John and I were walking back father to me in one word, she said "Bello!" assured and extremely sensitive to his to Piazzale Verdi from a visit to our typog- And so are his paintings. Please don't miss subjects. A true artist in the classical as well rapher, Antica Tipografia Biagini, when we this exhibit.as mannerist/fauvist genres, but his style passed a poster outside of Museo Nationale was his own, not based on any others works. di Palazzo Mansi advertising an exhibit of – by Karen VanderThere were portraits of Lietta as a child, of paintings by Isola. I called Ilaria the next her mother and grandmother, some incredi- day and she met us at the exhibit. On dis-ble landscapes of farms, seaside quays of play are all the paintings I knew by heart Versilia and compact hillside row-houses and dozens more lent by collectors from all with cathedrals in Swansea. The collection over the world. Isola had an amazing talent was worthy of a museum. Lietta and I for capturing the souls of his subjects.became great friends and pen-pals and she For me it was like making a full circle as Palazzo Mansi, via Galli Tassi 43arranged for me and my new husband to rent to why we're here, thanks to these two gen- Wednesdays to Saturdays a honeymoon pied-a-terre overlooking erous and outgoing sisters. Lietta passed 10 am to 1.30 pm, until March 14Teatro del Giglio the following winter. away two years ago but Ilaria is often at the Info: 0583 55570

ear the end of my first visit to

Coming Full Circle in Lucca

Ilaria Isola shows a visitor around one of the main salons of the exhibit at Palazzo Mansi

Lietta Isola Roberts, portrait by her father, 1936


here has always been a communication web in Lucca province. This might surprise those who have had to wait for years (like me) for a decent broad band connection to reach one's house. T However, we are not talking about electronic webs but those

antedating them. The centre of Lucca's web, known as L'occhio di Lucca, is at the top of Monte Bargiglio, the mountain overshadowing Borgo a Mozzano to the west.

On the top of this mountain there is a watchtower from which most of the other areas of Lucca province can be clearly seen. To the south one's sight goes right down into Lucca's piazza Napoleone. To the north Barga and beyond can be clearly dis-cerned. Unfortunately one can't see Bagni di Lucca as it's blocked by a hill. These plans and Out of the woods one starts climbing again drawings dating back to the 16th century give through exposed grassland and rocks. an indication of the tower's sights. Fortunately, in a couple of the more hair-

Through the lighting of bonfires and smoke raising bits there is a wooden rail to help one signals the authorities in Lucca could be safely along. After a final scramble there is a last warned of any impending attack from their noticeboard showing plans of the watchtower foes: the Este from the north, the Florentines before one enters into the remains of the circu-from the east and the Pisans from the west. lar tower itself. The visibility was not brilliant

If I crave for a short but interesting walk then I when I was there last October, but one could like to head for the Bargiglio. The first part of still see across a fair deal of Lucca's province, the route takes one beyond the village of Cune including Lucca itself. In particular I noticed (3.7km NW of Borgo a Mozzano on SP20), past how each of the remaining windows was the hermitage of San Bartolomeo (see my post aligned to particular places.at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/08/07/ Today the tower is an attractive viewpoint but happy-hermits/) until one reaches a notice I wonder what life must have been like for the board on the left. sentries stationed up there from the 13th to the

Here one can park one's vehicle and take to 18th centuries. It must have been a boring expe-one's legs. The second part starts with a some- rience and in winter a miserably wretched one. what steep path which levels out as it enters No accounts, however, survive into a dark wood where there is another notice- of those who worked there. A board – part of the research and excavation pro- pity, for there is quite a bit more ject on the mountain which took place in 2004. to find out about the eye of Lucca

on top of Monte Bargiglio.

– by Francis PettittYou can follow Francis’ blog at http://longoio2.wordpress.com

Historical photos from the Archivio di Stato di Lucca.


The Eye of Lucca

Remembering

was born in Pietrasanta on 14 August 1938. I was evacuated with the entire family – my mother, my grandparents and my uncles and aunts, to ISant'Anna di Stazzema. Everything happened on the 12th of August

1944. At 6 in the morning these Germans came, they took us into the stables and they began firing. My mother put me behind her, on her back, then behind a door where there were two rocks and I remained there for the entire day. I saw my mother hit the German with her wooden shoe, the only “weapon” she had, the wooden shoe. She hit the German. My mother was inside, but maybe because she was afraid that these Germans would see me, she rushed to the door. Because she saw this German who was entering and, coming inside, would have seen me. When she saw this German enter she threw the shoe and it hit him in the head. And then this German shot a burst of machine-gun fire and she died.… Died.

This is my entire story.

Then … then I was saved, in the late afternoon, by several people. They took me to the Valdicastello hospital, where I received the first treatments, because I was all burned. Then they took me to Marina di Pietrasanta where there were the nuns and there I again had the essential cures. And very slowly I began to return, together with everyone, with the other children. Slowly, slowly, I returned to school.

Now I'm 65 years old and I hope to never forget these things and I hope that there are no more wars, and that there is peace.

Thank God that this Peace Park has come to Sant'Anna, and that all these peoples are involved, including the German people, the Jewish people, the Israelis. And that they come to these places where one can still understand that peace is wanted and not wars. I have no idea who these Germans could have been. So I don't know if one day finding myself in front of that German who murdered my mother, what I would do. What I might think of doing at that moment. I don't know if I would forgive him or … act differently.

Above all memory is needed, this memory. The teachers must teach their children about what happened and that it can never be erased. I would like schoolteachers to teach their children that there should be no more wars and that never again should what happened at Sant'Anna, and is still happening in other places in the world at this very moment, never again should it recur.

Mario Marsili (translation by Grapevine)

This year 27 January, La Giornata della Memoria, was dedicated to the Liberation of Auschwitz 70 years ago. Many Italian students took part in educational travel to Auschwitz and other lagers on this day.

At Sant'Anna di Stazzema, flautist Giulia Matteucci (president of the association organizing this event) presented a concert-conference on the theme of music in the lagers, together with soprano/narrator Paola Massoni and with harp.

12 August 1944. German soldiers march to Sant'Anna di Stazzema, 3.8 km above La Culla, high above the Viareggio/Camaiore seacoast. A few villagers see them coming and escape on trails to Valdicastello or into the forest. The Germans shoot 560 people — including the elderly, women and children — the entire village, as a reprisal for presumed support given to the Partigiani.

Gradually over the years the details have emerged. At the Museum of Remembrance at Sant'Anna we can read the personal accounts of some survivors. Here is one person’s story.

barbed wire on the beach of Viareggio

Giulia Matteucci & Paola Massoni

where massacres occurred

Homo faber fortunae suae (man makes his own luck), our Latin first met Marco Palamidessi when we visited a friends tell us! Never be unprepared for the blind goddess (as you Banca del Monte di Lucca art exhibit for Grapevine. know luck is as blind as love, and the rotten luck is to have just had WI was photographing Marco during the inaugural pre-your cateracts removed). People don't willingly admit how much luck

sentation, but then when we all entered the gallery I realized that has a role in their lives. Yes, miracles happen, large or small, but he was not the artist, he was the critic! I had photographed the everyone has to sculpt their own. It takes a bit of sense and a bit of hard wrong person. The second time I met Marco he was interviewing work: in the right place at the right moment, the opposite is strongly

discouraged…. Even though in the right place at the wrong moment the artist Katerina Ring (for another FBML exhibit) at a café. can be exhilarating.He told me one of his hobbies was having himself photographed

by and with artists he knows, such as Nespolo, Possenti and Besides being Art Director for the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca

Silvia Forlai, who interviewed him for this article. Although it's and writing critical essays for the catalogs of the shows that you organize,

usually the critic who presents the artist, we thought it might be you arrange exhibits and events and write for many Italian and international fun to turn the tables around and let the artist present the critic. artists. I admire your literary style. What pleasure do you take in writing and Silvia was glad to take up the challenge. A step through the look- what do you think of art critics and of criticism in general?ing glass, if you will....… If anything is difficult for a writer, it is precisely to write, ergo I

assure you that it is not at all a pleasure. More than critic you can see that I am a critical case, unrecoverable! Without putting the jokes Marco, do you remember a short time ago you told me that you would have aside, more than critic I define myself as an (aspiring) writer about art. wanted me to be the one to interview you? It's really strange but lately we True criticism is done by very few individuals: today true critics are are asked to do things that we want to do. I find this curious. Sincerely, I find almost extinct. It's a difficult job, that requires enormous culture you curious too! What do you think, and what do you think about luck?

(which I will never have) and molto pelo sullo stomaco (a gen-uine grizzly bear, one of those big, bad growly ones). I have always believed in criticism in the service of beauty, as an inspiration to improve and certainly not a lashing.

Tell me about your path. How did you arrive here? What brought you to do what you do?

In truth I feel that I haven't started yet, and if I ever arrive I should begin again immediately. Certainly I don't confuse movement with action. I feel my legs walking, but where I don't know. Not to exaggerate with citations, but no one ever arrives so high as when they don't know where they are going. I hope for a great future. The way is made by walking, say the wise men, and I'm not going away (never, as I like to stay between the feet of my enemies). I would like to open up a new path (utopia?), one indicated by a madman, that afterwards so-called “normal” people (but then they really aren't when we get close to them) will follow. Nothing is more atrocious than “normality”, except for anonymity….

I love people who are outside the norm, I find them more interesting and I realize that they are on my wavelength. What do you think of those “special” people, unusual beings, those rare individuals who know how to make really strange, original, let's even say pure, things … what do you think of artists?

Artists (true ones) really make me think! I say this because I live among them. Sometimes Artists have that day less that is their day more. They are devils without whom life, above all mine, would be worse than an inferno, in other words deadly boring. They need to be loved, without a doubt. One loves Art unconditionally, but Artists have to be loved “despite everything” because putting up with them is a real test. One day a young Pugliese painter wanted to talk to me about the so-called “world of art”: I didn't even let him begin. Art is not a world, it's a psychiatric ward.

What do you think of art? And of art in relationship to life? And of Nutella?

There's less and less real art around, memorable works are lacking. It's a strange time, not only of thin cows: even the bulls are on a diet. Yet there are people of value around, I assure you, young people especially. We rush to put the works of art that do exist into contemporary museums: maybe for fear of the judgement of posterity? I've always believed that Art is a jealous lover. Sometimes or even too often I think that Art is like a kind of wife, who with an alibi or with a promise of happiness ends up sooner or later ruining our life. A ruin not

e


Marco, Antonio Possenti, Luca Alinari (FBML)

Marco & Ugo Nespolo, Amphitheatre

A Not so Serious Interview: An Art Critic Interviewed

What are you working on now?On Beauty … its opposite certainly isn't ugliness, which is quite

respectable. The opposite of Beauty is stupidity, Cézanne said (it would have been great to play cards with him, and even play the piano with Casorati [Italian painter/engraver, 1883-1963]. I have not answered, you know … what do you want me to say? I am unemployed with the mind employed, let's say, a deluxe form of unemployment. Anyway, great things, you'll see!

Talk to me about your future projects or plans.Instead of plans I prefer dreams, but only those that don't make

me regret the time I lose sleeping. I dream of continuing to do what I like to do in life. When you can transform your passion into a job, you're like a little king: it's the closest thing to happiness on earth. If you love your work you don't work a single day in your life. I've told you that miracles happen, like some very important dreams, but everyone should be the maker of his own. And to realize my dreams, I'll have to wake up sooner or later, it's the only solution.

I love writing and I love how you write. What do you think of writing?I love compliments, especially when I don't deserve them.

Anyway, thank you! I've been writing for a long time, I'm a kind of dilettante who believed in himself and never got tired of it. Not only do I like to read the words, go over and over them, but also see them: it's only when you see the words that you have the illusion of understanding them. And when you understand them, they're yours forever. I've always loved writing by hand, even before using the computer. The written word, when it is born from calligraphy, is a crafted thing. When you write you cut, adjust, polish, turn … just as an engraver does with his precious piece of wood. The day in which I learn to use my hands like my father, a great artisan, will be the day I can say that I've learned the task of writing.

to be avoided! And just like Life, Art is very closely related to us. I don't know whether Art clings more to Life or Life to Art. To be born,

Thank you for this interview, which has nothing serious about it to come into the world, is the supreme art. Nutella? It's terrible when

(especially in the answers). If you behave seriously, or worse if you it gets stiff in the winter: you have to put it on the wood or pellet

really are serious, you are always exposed to serious criticism. stove. It's a true postmodern work (more post than modern, I'd say!).

Seriousness is wanted in work, like honesty, but for the rest it kills you. Personally, and especially for my personality, I've never liked to

And the system of art? take myself too seriously. I need to laugh (Renior said that those who A universe of earth sharks and of sea foxes, I always say, but for laugh are never take seriously: what a sad thing, even if it is true).

now I'll resist. I would like to stop working but I won't do it. You Wilde, who I adore, said that whoever goes beyond the superficial, know that the best revenge is always success! whoever interprets with substance, does it at their own risk and peril.

But then Valéry comes to mind, who said that the deepest part of a Usually those who work with art in its vari- man is the skin. (I think I've confused things a bit with these citations, ous forms, like you and I, have an acute it's time to stop!) Ah, confusion, another thing for which I celebrate a intelligence, are sensitive and sometimes personal mass once a day. What a divine thing, Confusion!overly emotional. This also makes me feel

– Translation by Grapevinecomfortable with you, with someone “simi-lar”. One often suffers. One has a good time but the other side of the coin is that we suf-fer just as much. It's a price that we pay, especially when we're young. What do you think of artistic creation in terms of pleasure and suffering, which often go together?

I've never believed in the stereotype of the suffering artist, who rips out his gut, or that there is no creation without pain. Fare mondi, to make “Art” – “to make”, what a verb! – is the joy of putting oneself out into the work, bringing into the world those children that we call works of art. Certainly it's a joy that we wait for, that we earn, and like all earnings, also suffer for.

What do you think of our “artistic collaboration”? Do you want to marry me?

I didn't think it was a collaboration. I see it more as an Ionesco play. I thought it would be a collaboration but it's more like a pony cart [tr. note: Pensavo fosse una collaborazione invece era un calesse – citation from a film by Troisi]. Marriage is like a couple solving problems that they haven't solved as individuals. Anyway, I want to marry my painter-fidanzata (I'll ask her on the Ponte Vecchio, so I can jump into the Arno: I know she'll say no). Then you and I can see. We have a lot to do together in the future, and you should be dedicated to your painting! It will be nice to continue on the path: the least that a lovely voyage can do is continue….

Silvia Forlai's painting L'Arcangelo Michele

was exhibited in the Church of San Michele and other spaces during the holidays. Its new home is the Banca Nazionale del Lavoro in San Michele Square.


Marco & Silvia, San Michele, Lucca

Marco, Piazza Signoria, Firenze

by an Artist

hat makes many of us leave the security and You don't have to travel very far to find a good restaurant comforts of our home countries for “La serving delicious course after course of seasonal foods. W Dolce Vita” – the sweet life? Today I visited a local restaurant for a worker's lunch and I

The one common thread most of us share is that we have left with a new recipe. I'm in awe of their skills and culi-fallen in love with the famous Italian "Dolce Vita”. No one nary delights.does it better than the Italians. They are high in the European If you are really lucky and become friends with Italians ratings when it comes to life expectancy and you don't usually who take you under their wings and then into their homes for see their old folk turning into “couch potatoes”. dinner, then you will be in for a real treat. Course upon course

For me it was and still is the simple things, a going back to of delicious food will be prepared before your very eyes.basics. I remember vividly my first taste of the Italian Unlike England where families usually gather as a whole tomato, in bruschetta (fresh bread, toasted and topped with only for weddings or funerals, the Italians have a passion for chopped tomatoes and olive oil). Bruschetta always sets my their families, especially when you go away from the large taste buds alive, like a discotheque in full swing. cities and visit one of the many hilltop towns or villages scat-

I was used to the English tomato, the flavourless type more tered across the dramatic countryside. I just love to watch often than not grown hydroponically, chosen for its size and them all as they gather for Sunday lunch or for ceremonies, roundness, often travelling miles before reaching the shops, the long tables filled with people from several generations, unlike the Italian varieties grown in the ground, their odd from the very old to the very young. shapes and sizes filling the shop's shelves, all bought and sold Consider the many festivals: Polenta, Chestnut, even Fish locally to add to the flavour and to set your taste buds dancing. and Chips. Once again the generations are enjoying each They are a taste explosion, coupled with olive oil, garlic, salt, other's company, swivelling around the dance floors pepper and basil leaves on toasted bread – all fresh and simple. together. The children grow up with music, art, culture and Just writing this makes my mouth water. I might just have to so much more.stop and make myself a little snack! There is so much that I could write about La Dolce Vita.

But it doesn't just stop at the tomatoes. All vege- This is just a taster, a little something to whet the appe-tables are grown in the same way. If you are tite. La Dolce Vita is a journey. It is as individual and lucky enough to have your own vegetable as unique as you are, and it will reflect your per-garden then you really do know and taste the sonality, your dreams and desires. But once difference. The Italians have such a passion you have tasted La Dolce Vita there will be no for good food. And I haven't even touched on going back.the wine, straight from the gods themselves. – by Carol BurnettL

a D

olce

Vita

Marcello, come here!

In January Italy lost one of its icons of la dolce vita, Swedish actress Anita Ekberg. In her honour we present these comments by another transplant from the North.

POOL CONSTRUCTIO

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POOL MAIN

TENANCE

POOL SHOP

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POOL MAIN

TENANCE

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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

[email protected] www.systems-pool.com

fold-out events calendar

MarketsGeneral markets Books and prints Pescia 4th Sunday

Lucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Querceta Saturday morningsLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.

Lucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to Saturday Antiques Arts & CraftB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsPonte a Moriano Tues a.m.

Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.

Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.

Pietrasanta 1st SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Barga 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersTonfano Sat a.m.Viareggio last Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m.Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd SundayPescia Sat a.m.

WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON

IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND

GRAPEVINE

February 2015 GRAPEVINE

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Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Altopascio

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Prato

50

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). 1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa www.opapisa.it See page17.

0584 46477 www.ticketone.it Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. 2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. www.operadifirenze.it

www.puccinielasualucca.com 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. 3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo Vorno. 0583 971125, www.teatroverdionline.it

Custode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. www.delloscompiglio.org 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo Spiritowww.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com 25. Ponte a Moriano www.accademiadelispiritati.org

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival, Lucca In Musica. 0583 469960, 0583 465320. 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.closed Mondays and Sundays, 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglo.com Museum. 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML concerts, www.teatrodelgiglio.com Gemignani Music School. 0583 469960,

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival.

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 11. San Romano Auditorium 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program at 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele Differenti. www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, [email protected], www.operabarga.it Pugnano). Until 11 July, 9.15pm. Concerts in

museum. 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], the Villa, contemporaneous with the 15. Botanical Garden concerts, www.bargajazz.it exhibition Cerratelli, the first 100 years.

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to Sundays 4pm 16. San Martino (Duomo) [email protected] to 8pm. 050 817900, 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, www.belcantoinbarga.com www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music article in June Grapevine. 33. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music Festival, concerts at the Terme & at Teatro

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto Festival, www.iamitalia.com Verdi. Until 4 Oct. 0527 78903, 19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 www.estateregina.it

941152, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini Outside Lucca: 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 050 941111 or 050 94118836. 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.

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Music & TheatreFebruary 2015 GRAPEVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAP

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

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Exhibitions

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Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

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Vecchiano

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EVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPEVINE February 2015

Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

A. San Francesco Church Complex. Around Lucca: Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also

AA. Museum of Hospitality (ex Casa del Boia). L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584

B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via 67. www.delloscompiglio.org 757443.

della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma. SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival

C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center & photography. Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427. Pisa:

D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52. T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it

D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. 450278. O. Ponte a Moriano Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767.

E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 Barga: T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi 467205. P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060.

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. 490530, [email protected], Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.www.museocattedrale.lucca.it P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo Prato:

G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. U. Palazzo Pretorio. H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti. www.palazzopretorio.prato.itH2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 P4. Fondazione Ricci, Galleria Pza. San Rocco. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.itI1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Duomo. 0584 795268.J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. Florence:J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

New exhibition space. Corso Garibaldi 116. X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60. J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

10am to 5pm www.domusromana.itQ5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. Forte dei Marmi: Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13.R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

280292, www.villabertelli.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it

R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

to midnight. www.guccimuseo.com

Capannori

1512 noon, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini 200, Forte dei Marmi. Via Francigena International Arts Festival of Altopascio. Duo Gatti-Rugani (flute-piano) perform Schubert, Schumann, Bach, Faurè & Donizetti. Free. www.francigenafestival.it, www.villabertelli.it4pm,Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Barber of Seville.5pm, Lucca Cathedral. Organ concert by Anna Picchiarini. Free. Sponsored by FLAM.5pm, Boccherini Auditorium. 2 cellos (Bronzi, Gnocchi) & a guitar (Micheli) perform Boccherini, Castelnuovo Tedesco & Paganini. AML.

11 8 12 noon, Villa Bertelli, Forte dei Marmi. Via Francigena Inter-national Arts Festival of Altopascio. M Lentini & M Spizzichino (violin & piano) play Saint Saens, Wieniawski, Paganini & Sarasate. Free. www.francigenafestival.it, www.villabertelli.it

5pm, Lucca Cathedral. Organ concert by Mario Duella. Free. Sponsored by FLAM.5pm, Boccherini Auditorium. Concert for clarinet, violin & piano. Schubert, Bartok, Pasculli, Ives. AML.

4.30pm, Firenze Teatro Verdi. Carmen by Bizet. ORT, tel. 055 2342722, www.orchestradellatoscana.it4.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Schmitt's Il visitatore.

9pm, Galliano Masini lyric circle in Livorno. R. Ceccotti & M. Bruno (sopranos), L. Bruno (piano). Music by Mascagni, Luporini, Floridia, Puccini. Free. Laboratorio Brunier.

249pm,Teatro Verdi. Scuola Normale concert in Pisa. www.sns.it

239.15pm, Catalani Hall of San Luca Palace Hotel (Via S. Paolino, Lucca). Listening guide to Don Giovanni with soprano Silvia Tocchini. Free. Reservations 347 9951581. A. Catalani Friends of Music Circle.

18Firenze, Obihall. Revolution.

25

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2212 noon, Villa Bertelli, Forte dei Marmi. Via Francigena International Arts Festival of Altopascio. T. Vannucci & G. Giusti (violin & piano) perform Debussy, Messiaen & Brahms. Free. www.francigenafestival.it, www.villabertelli.it4pm, Teatro Verdi di Pisa. Barber of Seville.4.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Feydeau’s Sarto per Signora.5pm, Lucca Cathedral. Organ concert by Ulrike Northoff. Free. Sponsored by FLAM.5pm, Boccherini Auditorium. Sandro Ivo Bartoli (piano) performs Bach-Busoni, Chopin, Franck, Albeniz & Liszt. AML.7pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio. R. Cecchetti (piano), L. De Filippi (violin), S. Meo (cello) performing Thomas Linley & W. A. Mozart: two 18th century prodigies. Music by Mozart, G. Tartini & T. Linley the younger.

3 9pm, Teatro Verdi. Scuola Normale concert in Pisa. Tel. 050 509111, www.sns.it

Firenze, Mandela Forum. Violetta.

4

[email protected] WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPE

16

Music & Theatre

February 2015

Coming Up941111. See Dec/Jan Grapevine back cover.Scuola Normale concert series continues 10/31 March, 7&10/14 April, 12/19 May. www.sns.itPisaMontecarlo Teatro Verdi. Macbeth 27 & 29 March. Il Convitato di Pietra by Dargomyzskij Prose season continues on 6-7,13,21,29 March & 9 April. Tel 0583 22517, 13 [email protected] Season: until 9 May at Teatro Verdi & Sant' Andrea Church, Tel. 050

17

9 9.15pm, Catalani Hall of San Luca Palace Hotel (Via S. Paolino, Lucca). Listening guide to The Barber of Seville with soprano Silvia Tocchini. Free. Reservations 347 9951581. A. Catalani Friends of Music Circle.

2 1 12 noon, Villa Bertelli, Forte dei Marmi. Via Francigena International Arts Festival of Altopascio. M. Munch (piano) with sonatas by Scriabin & Mozart. Free. www.francigenafestival.it, www.villabertelli.it5pm, Lucca Cathedral. Organ concert by Giovanni Vaglica. Free. Sponsored by FLAM.5pm, Boccherini Auditorium. 4 musicians perform Vivaldi & Piazzolla. AML. See back cover of Grapevine for details and photo on page 4.Bookings open for trip to Genoa’s Carlo Felice theatre (organized by the G. Puccini choir of Camigliano) for Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor in March. Info & reservations at 340 4937826.

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19Montecatini Terme, Teatro Verdi. Bobby Solo.

129pm, Teatro Verdi, Pisa. Romeo y Julieta Tango by Naturalis Labor.

2010.30am, Boccherini Auditorium. Encounter with jazz singer Michela Lombardi for Musica Ragazzi. AML.9pm, Teatro del Giglio. Feydeau's Sarto per Signora.7pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. Puccini Opera Recital. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.

137pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. Puccini Opera Recital. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.

Montecarlo, Teatro Rassicurati, Via Carmignani 14. Prose season (Jan. to April). Tutto sotto il tetto with Katia Beni. Tel. 0583 22517, [email protected]

1410.30am, Boccherini Auditorium. Musica Ragazzi. 2 cellos (Bronzi, Gnocchi) & a guitar (Micheli) celebrate Boccherini’s birthday (born in Lucca in 1743). Free. AML.

5pm, Palazzo Bernardini, Sala Associazione Industriali. Book presentation: “I capricci di Bernarduccio” (M.P. Fazzi ed.) by Fabrizio Guidotti. “The musical diary of G. Puccini Sr. Drawings by Carlo Guidotti. AML.

8.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Barber of Seville.

7pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. A Night at the Opera. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.

74.30pm, Firenze Teatro Verdi. Carmen by Bizet. ORT, tel. 055 2342722, www.orchestradellatoscana.it7pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. A Night at the Opera. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Schmitt's Il visitatore.9pm, Montecatini Terme Teatro Verdi. Mamma Mia Live Show.

Livorno, The Cage. 99 Posse.

6 7pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. Puccini Opera Recital. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Schmitt's Il visitatore with Alessio Boni & Alessandro Haber.

58.30pm, Teatro Verdi, Pisa. Tito Ruffo Hall. I Sacchi di Sabbia Don Giovanni. Melani L’Empio Punito (selections)

219pm, Teatro del Giglio.

Teato Verdi di Pisa. Barber of Seville.

Feydeau's Sarto per Signora.


8.30pm,

9pm, Scuola Normale concert in Pisa. www.sns.it


8.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Mozart’s Don Giovanni.

9pm, Boccherini Auditorium. Boccherini Bass Festival. A. Bocini (bass) & E. Barsotti (piano) perform Rota, Bocini, Bottesini, Paganini. A. Bocini & G. Ragghianti perform Perez Tedesco. Free. www.boccherini.it

9pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. Hospice by Glen Çaçi.

EVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

27 7pm, Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. Puccini Opera Recital. [email protected] or call 340 8106042.

26 9pm, Teatro Verdi, Pisa. Parsons Dance.9pm, Boccherini Auditorium. Boccherini Bass Festival. G. Ragghianti (bass) & S. Soldati (piano) perform Eccles & Bottesini. www.boccherini.itMontecarlo, Teatro Rassicurati, Via Carmignani 14. Prose season (Jan. to April). Tutto sotto il tetto with Katia Beni. Tel. 0583 22517, [email protected]

To locate the venues,see the map and

the list above.

Lucca Marzadori/Armellini (violin/piano) perform Mendelssohn & Schumann. 8,15,19 Summer Festival: 10 July, Billy Idol, 11 July Elton John, 22 July Mark see program on back cover of Grapevine.Knopfler, 23 July Robbie Williams, 26 July Lenny Kravitz. Tickets 0584 46477. Oratorio San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. 6 March. Puccini e la sua Lucca Teatro del Giglio, Molière's Il malato immaginario (6/7/8 March). Operas: celebrates 11 years of activity. Tel. 340 8106042 or

Don Giovanni (1 March 4pm). [email protected]

AML concert at San Micheletto, Sala dell’Affresco. 1 March 5pm. Lucca Teatro Festival. 6 workshops for students, 23-29 March.

Friday Saturday Thu

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However,to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.

8 LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Firenze, Gucci Museum of

Contemporary Art. Camille Henrot, Grosse Fatigue. Firenze, National Archaeological Museum, Piazza

S. Annunziata. Falisci, Il popolo delle colline. Firenze, Galleria dell’Accademia, Il marmo

ritrovato per Giovanni degli Alessandri, statua inedita by Prtatese Lorenzo Bartolini, neoclassical sculptor.

4 LAST DAY:

Sant’Agostino Complex, Pietrasanta. Sculptures by 3 generations of the Tommasi family. Tues to Sunday 4 to 7pm. Tel. 0’584 795234, www.museodeibozzetti.it

22 LAST DAY: Firenze, Palazzo Pitti, Museo degli Argenti. I

tesori della Fondazione Buccellati. Da Mario a Gianmaria, 100 anni di storia dell’arte orafa.

17 LAST DAY:

OPENING:

Lu.C.C.A. Lounge & Underground. Danilo Fusi - Paolo Staccioli. Il Sole, La Luna & l’Anima delle Cose (Sun, Moon & Soul of Things). Marco Calvani, Le vie dell’Oltre. Intimate visions by a Pisan painter.

11 LAST DAY:

Museo Ugo Guidi, Via M. Civitali 33, Forte dei Marmi. Tito Mucci exhibit Gume Brumose. By appointment: 348 020538.

24

15 LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Pisa, Palazzo Blu. Modigliani & his

friends: Jean Michel Bouhors curator. Fiabe in Blue, Andersen illustrated by Fabian Negrin. Mon-Fri 10am to 7pm, Sat-Sun 10am to 8pm.

Lu.C.C.A. Lounge&Underground. Tues to Sun 1am to 7pm. Splash by Pier Toffoletti.

Pisa, Museo della Grafica, Stories & images of cats. www.museodellagrafica.unipi.it

Pistoia, Palazzo Fabroni, Via Sant Andrea 18. Between Sign & Light, paintings by Giorgio Ulivi. 0573 371214.

16

23 LAST DAY: In the Teatro

Metastasio Theatre, Prato. Via B. Cairoli 59. Metastasio Jazz Festival, Uno Scatto con Duke. Photos & historical materials, 1967-1972. The jazz tradition in Prato began with a Louis Armstrong performance in 1952. Tu to Sat 9.30 to 12.30am, 4 to 7pm.

25

9 10 LAST DAY: Firenze,

Casa Buonarroti, Via Ghibellina. Maioliche e ceramiche toscane dal XIV al XVIII secolo.

Lu.C.C.A. Museum. Ribelli si Nasce. Signorini, Fattori, Lega & the Macchiaioli of Caffè Michelangiolo - Until 6 Apr. 2015.

Lucca De Benedettis Collection. Permanent exhibit of monsters & strange creatures, incredible facts & unique artifacts. Via dell’Anfiteatro 99, http://collezionedebenedettis.blogspot.it

EXHIBITIONS CONTINUING FROM LAST

MONTH:

Viareggio, Palazzo delle Muse, Piazza Mazzini, GAMC. Expressions & forms of the 1900’s – the Pieraccini donation. Until 30 Sept 2015.

CINEMA

FAIRS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS, TRADITIONS

VORNO (Reggio Emilia), Doganaccia-Cutigliano (Pistoia). Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. Latin- On 15 Feb. you can try out different brands of snow-

LUCCA American contemporary cinema. 1-2 Feb. (O som boards for free at Pulicchio, just beyond Abetone. Cineforum Ezechiele 25,17 offers: ao redor, 7 cajas), 8-9 Feb. (Estômago, La jaula de For information call 327 8911201.CINEMA ARTÈ, Via Carlo Piaggia, Capannori. For oro), 15-16 Feb. (Infancia clandestina, O ano em the Day of Memory. 2 Feb. 6pm, Lenzuoli bianchi que meus pais saíram de férias). 0583 971125. PIETRASANTAalle finestre & Venti chili di grano nello zaino. San Biagio Festival. First weekend of the month.

FIRENZE Traditional Blessing of the throat at the Duomo, Documentaries of World War II narrated by school-CINEMA ODEON, Palazzo Strozzi. Original lan- with a large street market and fair throughout the children. Free.guage films.5 Feb. 9pm, Unbroken. 9-10 Feb. town. Info: 0584 795234, 0584 283284.Gemma Bovary (in French). 055 214068, CINEMA ARTÈ, 2 Feb. 9pm, La chiave di Sara. LUCCAwww.odeonfirenze.com, [email protected] Scott Thomas/Mélusine Mayance. The Extra Lucca Oil Festival, 13 to 15 February. Villa

story of a French survivor of the July 1942 deporta- Bottini.

tion.VIAREGGIO

TUSCANYCarnival, February/March weekends throughout CINEMA ASTRA, 3 Feb. 9.30pm Une folle passione 7 February, Day of Remembrance Many events Italy, but locally with fantastic satirical floats pa-(USA-France 2014) preceded at 8.30pm by short are scheduled between 27 Jan.& 10 Feb. regarding rading along the Lungomare. This is Viareggio’s

film La quieta perduta (Italian, 2015, 35 minutes). the Shoah and the Liberation. See article on page 7.120th carnival. Tel. 0584 58071, www.viareggio.

FONDAZIONE BML AUDITORIUM, 4 Feb. 9.30pm ilcarnevale.com

14 February, Valentine’s DayGodard’s last film Il Disprezzo (France 1963). Valdottavo carnival, 43rd year. 8,15 Feb. See arti-Brigitte Bardot & Michel Piccoli. Adapted from a Skiing and snowboarding: Abetone’s Val di Luce cle in March 2014 Grapevine.novel by Moravia, set in Rome & Capri (in French). (Pistoia). A bit further from Lucca: Monte Cimone

http://ezechiele2517.wordpress.com (Modena), Amiata (Grosseto), Cerreto Laghi Carnival is also held in many other towns.

CINEMA - FAIRS - SPORTS - TRADITIONS -

Lucca, Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. Raffaello Isola (1897-1955). Until 14 March. See article on page 5.

Wed Sunday Mon Tue

[email protected] WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND GRAPE

32 2pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello

Scompiglio, Videoart (Brasil)

1 2pm, Vorno,Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Videoart (Brasil)

Viareggio, Villa Argentina, Via Fratti. La Grande Guerra di Lorenzo Viani. Viareggio-Parigi-Il Carso. Photos & paintings. Until 1 March 2015.

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13 2pm, Vorno,Tenuta dello

Scompiglio, Animas lejanas/Almas de distância - Video Arte Latinoamericana (Angie Bonino, Perú). Continuing on 14,15,16 February. 0583 971125, ticket office.

62pm, Vorno,Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Animas lejanas/Almas de distância - Video Arte Latinoamericana (from the Bienal de Barcelona). Continuing on 7,8,9 February. 0583 971125, ticket office.

7 OPENING:

LAST DAY:

Boutades, paintings by Lisandro Rota at Mercurio Gallery, Viareggio. 4.30 to

7.30pm, closed Mondays. Fragility and constriction: a trip into the history of Maggiano & presentation of the

Fondazione Mario Tobino project. Medical-scientific instruments on display, DVD documentary (oral history) & virtual tour of the ex-psychiatric hospital. Complesso di San Francesco (Lucca). www.fondazionemariotobino.it

14

21

2627 2pm, Tenuta dello Scompiglio,

Animas lejanas/Almas de distância - Video Arte Latinoamericana (Hurtado, Venezuela). Continuing until 2 March. 0583 971125, ticket office.

20 2pm, Vorno,Tenuta dello Scompiglio,

Animas lejanas/Almas de distância - Video Arte Latinoamericana (Progetto LiminalB). Continuing on 21,22,23 February.

19

To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar

28

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Tenuta dello Scompiglio, SPE. Moira Ricci, Dove il cielo è più vicino curated by

Emanuela De Cecco. Visible during SPE hours: 4pm to 7.30pm daily & Thurs. to Sun. 2pm to 6pm or

by appointment; on performance days beginning 2pm. ALSO: Note Sparse (Scattered Notes), photo

exhibit & video installation by Lelli & Masotti (1997-2006).Centro Visite del Padule di Fucecchio - Via Castelmartini 133, Larciano (Pistoia).

Borneo, the Last Forest? Photography by naturalist Nicola Messina. Sat. 2.30 to 5.30pm, Sun 9-12am & 2.30-5.30, Monday to Friday by appointment. Tel. 0573 84540, www.paduledifucecchio.eu

San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. Puccini’s Women, costumes & scenery from operas. Until 3 May 2015.

Firenze, Museo Casa Martelli, Via F. Zannetti 8. L’altra metà del cielo. Sante e devozione privata nelle grandi famiglie fiorentine nei secoli XVII-XIX. Until 8 March 2015.

Livorno, Museo di Storia Naturale del Mediterraneo. I giganti della Terra. La conquista degli ambienti. (Paleontology). Until 25 May.

Lido di Camaiore, Tarlo della Vigna. The art of wrought iron, anthology display of Angelo Mugnaini. Until 14 June 2015.

Firenze, Pitti Palace, Modern Art Gallery. Graphics/ Shades of color (Il colore dell’ombra). Until 8 March 2015.

CHILDREN

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

FIRENZE BIBLIOTECA STATALE (State Library) TEATRO PUCCINI, Via delle Cascine, 41. Il Mago di Oz Via Corteorlandini 12. Salone Monumentale.

LUCCA(Wizard of Oz). Musical. 7 Feb. 9pm & 8 Feb. 4.45pm. L'Orlando Furioso of Ariosto continues in 2015.

AGORÀ (Pza dei Servi) library/reading rooms/wifi Magic Florence magic show 21 Feb. 4.45pm & 9pm. Conferences: 20 Feb., 2/6/13 Mar. Presentations center/children’s section. Mon 2pm-7pm, Tues to Info. 055 362067, 055 210804. www.teatropuccini.it &readings: 12/19/26 Jan. 2/9/23 Feb. All at 5pm, in Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am- 1pm. Videoteca Tues/Thurs

Italian. www.amicidelmachiavelli.it3pm-6pm, Sat 10am-12.30pm. Also at Agorà “Let’s Talk”: beginning 5 Feb, every

LUCCAThursday 4.30 to 6pm: English conversation help of-FONDAZIONE RAGGHIANTI, Via S. Micheletto 3.fered by Sandra Cacianti for children 10 to 15. 6 Feb. 17pm. Discovery of the Syrian city Ebla – the Throughout Italy:Reserve at 0583 445716 or [email protected] of archaeological sites in wartime (in

Festa della Donna, 8 March. Celebrated with an CARNIVAL especially for children, every Sunday Italian, Paolo Matthiae). Matthiae has excavated at arts exhibit at Casinò of Bagni di Lucca 8-15 in February: Bientina (Pisa), Vicopisano (Pisa), Ebla since 1964. March. And in many more venues.Pontedera (Pisa), Veneri (Pistoia), Pescia (Paese dei

FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE AUDITORIUM Simulcast Royal Opera House: 17 March Swan Balocchi), Vecchiano (Pisa).Conferences on excellence in collaboration with the Lake, London Royal Ballet. 1 April Fall of the

BARGA Accademia dei Lincei (in Italian): 13 Feb. 5.30pm House of Mahogany. 5 May La Fille Mal Gardée, 7 Feb. Il Baccanale in Piazzale Matteotti, with danc- Franco Gabrielli (Il territorio: rischi, provvedimenti London Royal Ballet. 10 June La Bohème. 5 July ers at 2.30pm, Arca della Valle & prizes for chil- e soluzioni). 23 Feb. 10.30am Stefania Giannini Guillaume Tell. www.roh.org.ukdren’s costumes Tel. 347 3788162. (Ripensare l’istruzione per il domani). 21 March Sant’Andrea & Pieve di Compito, 26th Camellia

5.30pm Giuliano Amato (Sul mondo, sull’Europa, Festival with Japanese tea ceremonies and more. 14-VORNOsull’Italia). Followed by: 18 April Lamberto 15, 21-22, 28-29 March. Centro Culturale Compitese: Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. 9 Feb. Maffei, 8 May Paolo Portoghesi, 16 May Alberto 0583 977188, 366 2796749. www.camelielucchesia.it3.30pm. Nessun dorma, opera for children loosely

based on Turandot. By Kinkaleri. 0583 971125. Quadrio Curzo. To confirm: 0583 450261, 0583 Pisa, medieval birthday celebrations. 25 March Ticket office open Thur to Sunday from 2pm. 442002. segretaria@fondazionebm lucca.it each year.

- CHILDREN - CONFERENCES - COMING UP

Thu Friday Saturday

EVINE WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

Firenze, Museo Marino Marini. Between Marini & Alberti. Tuscan art-ist Massimo Bartolini. Until 10 March 2015.

Prato, Museo del Tessuto, ex-Fabbrica Campolmi. Arte vera e gentile. Lace & embroidery from Antonia Suardi’’s collection. Until 31 May.

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February 2015Exhibitions

PISA LUCCA

Piazza dei Miracoli: State Archives Exhibition Space, Via Pubblici Macelli 155. 10am-Leaning Tower, March to October 9am to 7pm, November to February 1pm, 4pm-8pm.9.30am to 5pm. April to September 8.30am to 8.30pm. Night visits from San Francesco Complex, Piazza S. Francesco. 1 April to 31 Oct., Sat-Sun 14 June to 15 September, 8.30pm to 11pm. €15. Take the shuttle bus A 10am to 7pm. 1 Nov. to 31 March, Sat-Sun 10am to 5pm.

from Central Station. 050 910789. Santa Caterina Church, Mon-Fri 4pm-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-1pm, 3pm-6pm

Cathedral, Autumn, spring and summer 8am to 8pm. €2. Winter 10am Francigena Museum, Ex-Casa del Boia, on Walls near Porta Elisa.

to 12.45 pm, 3pm to 4.45 pm weekdays, 3pm to 4.45pm Sundays and M.U.S.T. (Memoria Urbana Società e Territorio), Via Guinigi 29.

holidays. 050 560547. history, archaeology, photography. Tues-Sun 10am to 6pm. 0583 442916.

Baptistry, The biggest in Italy, built in 1153 by Diotisalvi with works by Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. 0583

Nicola Pisano. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). 571712, www.luccamuseum.com

Winter 10am to 4.30pm. 050 560547. Domus Romana Lucca, Via C. Battisti 15. Longobard archaeological

Monumental cemetery, Etruscan, Latin, Medieval. March to October site (1000 B.C.) 0583 050060, www.domusromanalucca.it

9am to 6.30pm. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Villa Guinigi, Via Quarquonia. €4 (free under 18 and over 65). Tuesday

to Saturday 8.30am to 7.30p Sunday 8.30am to 1pm. 0583 496033.

Botanical Garden, Via Luca Ghini 5. Dating from Cosimo de’ Medici Torre Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 45. €3.50. June-Sept. 9am- midnight.

(1544), attached to the University of Pisa. 050 2211316. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). Tuesdays to

Jewish Cemetery, Via Palestro, near Piazza dei Miracoli, dating to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 583461, 0583 55570.

1648, one of the oldest Hebrew cemeteries in Europe. Puccini's Birthplace, Corte San Lorenzo 9. €7 (reduced €5, free under

Piazza dei Cavalieri, Re-designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th century 10). April to October 10am to 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. 0583 584028.

according to the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici, seat of the Knights of St. Cathedral and Cathedral Museum, Piazza Antelminelli. €4 (reduced

Stephen and the Scuola Normale. One of the towers contains the jail of €2.50). March 8 to November 2, 10am to 6pm. Winter, 10am to 2pm.

Saturdays and Sundays 10am to 5pm. 0583 490530. Count Ugolino, as recalled by Dante in the Inferno. Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Gardens. 0583 954029. Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Free admission. Tuesdays to Palazzo Ducale, Cortile Carrara. Provincial offices, historic rooms and Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 8pm. 050 500197. Cresci Foundation for Italian Emigration. 0583 417363. Museo San Matteo in Soarta, Lungarno Mediceo. €8 (students 18 to 25 Museum of the Liberation (1940-1943), Palazzo Guinigi, Via €4). 050 541865.Sant'Andrea 43. www.museodellaliberazionelucca.itWall by American artist Keith Haring (1958-1990) entitled Tuttomondo, Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Art library, galleries, at the Sant'Antonio Convent near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. A metaphor conference rooms, ancient cloister with gardens. 0583 467205for peace and harmony in the world. Botanical Garden, Via del Giardino Botanico 14. Open week days Piaggio Viale R. Piaggio 7, Pontedera (Pisa). Tues to Fri 10am to 9.30am to 12.30am, from July to 16 Sept. 10am to 7pm. 0583 442160. 6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, 2pm- 6pm. 0587 27171, [email protected]

Museo

Museums & Monuments

December/January solution

GRAPEVINE February 2015

Clues in English have Italian answers andclues in Italian have English answers

Compiled by Helen Askham

ACROSS DOWN

01 His day is the 14th (9) 02 Loved ones (5)

08 La città del massacro del 14 (7) 03 Egoista (6)09 Morsi (5)

04 Quadro vivente (7)11 Palpebre (7)

05 God of the sea (7)12 Eludere (5)

13 Sopraveste portata da araldi (6) 06 Scientifico (10)

16 Un valentino romantico ma non 07 Bici (4)santo (6)

10 Patrigno (10) 18 Visi (5)

14 A big X (7)19 Nutrimento (7)

15 He wrote William Tell (7)

22 (5) 17 Tappeto (6)

20 He flew too near the sun (5)23 To glide (7)

21 Esame (4)24 Raffigurazione (9)

F E L I C E N A T A L E

A A C C I D E N T I G

S I P C N T O R O Y

T I M P T N I B P

F E D I S O S D U S T

O E H A P P Y S I

O H T T O B M A

D C H R I S T M A S N

F E N C S G

P I R A T E H O T T E R

G R I T T E I O N A

A S C E N T C L O N E S

T H R E E K I N G S

Lovers’ Clues 1 2 3 4 5

6 7

8 9 10

11 12

13 14 15 16

17

18 19 20 21

22 23

24

magine you and your lover driving through feathery plume of crispy cod skin, and the other the woods, on a road flanked by high stone two an exquisite beef tartare served between rye walls covered with ancient ivy, the road crisps topped with sautéed mustard seeds. I bending and turning uphill. You arrive at an While my companions debated over their primi

old two-story rose-coloured stone house with I was still tempted by the antipasti. Perfect for mountainous vegetation all around. This is indecisive me was the trio – 3 kinds of meat Villa Bongi. You knock on the big wooden doors served in mini-portions: a finely sliced beef fillet, at the reverse side of the villa and the hosts open a succulent guanciale roasted in red wine, and the door to you. If the big fireplace isn't blazing rabbit stew with truffle-studded potato. This was warmly, the woodstove alongside will be offering a perfect dish, and after two antipasti I was its cheery glow. already satiated! My This might seem like a hunters' lodge, and the fare friends assured me that excels in cacciagione (game) but elegant linens their cinghiale (wild and sparkling silver and boar) and baccalà with glasses give another leeks and polenta were impression. Rustic is the delicious as well.not the first word that Another pinzimonio comes to mind! Rather one arrived before the dessert: feels like a member of the this was a tangy yogurt Napoleonic family in the with pomegranate seeds. forest of Fontainebleau. Or (The pinzimonio or "sur-like Belle, a guest in the for- prise" can serve to whet est castle. the appetite or to cleanse

Hosts Matteo and Matteo the palate between dishes. will seat you graciously and A very civilized concept offer to take your coats. If it indeed!) We boldly isn't dark outside you can plunged ahead for dessert, enjoy sylvan views through picture win- two of us sharing a beauti-dows, Nature pressing around the ful chocolate soufflè in a warm stone villa like a hug. puddle of créme anglaise

Last November Villa Bongi topped with a crest of gallantly met the challenge of sliced pear, the other two pinch-hitting to serve an sharing a savory pumpkin American Thanksgiving to torte with a light pumpkin 20 guests, and on very short cream sauce. Paradise! notice! Seated near the fire With all the excite-at candle-lit tables, we ment of learning about enjoyed delicious ravioli new foods and trying stuffed with pumpkin and dark out new tastes, we for-chocolate followed by individ- got to ask the source ual galletti (a game bird resem- of the excellent red bling neither chicken nor turkey, but house wine. Our conver-something in between) with vegetables. sation flowed, a sure sign

While that evening was delightful, even that the wine was more than more delightful was our recent return last pleasurable! month. This time 4 of us entered on a very There will be a next time, perhaps cold afternoon to the usual warm greeting devoted to seafood. For vegetarians too, there is a and cosy fireplace. It took time to decide, but richness of choice.Matteo patiently explained, and explained Fine food, fine atmosphere, warm fire, warm again, the special mare or terra menu. This conversation. More than worth an adventurous was a choice of 3 fish or 3 meat dishes, a kind ride into the forests of Montuolo, beyond Meati, of “chef's selection”. beyond the city walls to the west of Lucca.

After deliberating over the menu we settled on individual dishes. Before these arrived, we Villa Bongi is open for dinner only, except were served a "surprise" – what the Italians call Sundays and holidays when lunch is also served. a pinzimonio – in this case a little bowl of green Closed Tuesdays.cabbage soup with a tasty spoonful of yogurt at its centre. As good as it looked! While one of Address: Via di Cocombola 640, Montuolo, Luccaus chose a warm pot of zuppa alla frantoiana, Reservations: tel. 348 7340143, 347 4955383another chose a primo of baccalà and leeks Email: [email protected] on oven-baked clouds of polenta with a Webpage: www.villabongi.it

Villa Bongi:A Fairy Tale

n an early January walk in the Apennines a few years ago I sat down on a dry bank and looked at the clear blue sky, where the track was littered with last year's chestnut O husks and fallen acorns, some still in their little cups. A

'Walker' strode by. He deserved the capital letter. He was wearing all the right walking On another walk this winter, on a beautiful day, an old man gear, as well as a stopped his little Ape, which was sputtering up the hill, to talk tojaunty cap. Did it have a feather in it? I'm not sure, but he sure was jaunty. Che bella giornata, I ven-tured. Si, he said, hardly breaking his stride, Si vede la primavera.

Ah, spring … la primavera. Now you see her, now

you don't. What do we see first, as she comes and goes in her capri-cious way, for several months running up to the full flowering of April? D. H. Lawrence lived around here for a time, above the little village called Tellaro near La Spezia, which is still a relatively me. Franco agreed that it was a long hard wait till spring. He said he quiet spot on the coastal belt. In my copy of his Selected Letters was 84, but as the old proverb says: Da settanta in più non si which I bought in my student days in the sixties, Aldous Huxley contano più (After 70 you stop counting).called him 'a mystical materialist', someone like Wordsworth who Lawrence advised his sister not to 'meddle' with religion. I would was attuned to 'unknown modes of being'. In February 1913 leave that alone; I try to occupy myself fully in the present. Be here Lawrence wrote enthusiastically: now. He went on: I believe that the highest virtue is to be happy – as

Spring is here already: there are primroses in profusion, the Dalai Lama also said. We wait for spring to emerge, in Lucca I have found a handful of the wild narcissus, with the yel- and its surroundings as elsewhere – as we wait for the swallows, low centres, and a few sweet violets, and some purplish popularly supposed to arrive on March 21, the first day of spring anemones with dark centres. The birds are singing as and the feast of St Benedict. A the sun comes up even though the cacciatore is out in San Benedetto, la rondine full costume [like my walker] stalking shadowily sotto il tetto (For St. Benedict's [DHL's word] through the olive trees in quest of wrens Day, the swallow is under the and robins. eaves). Then we really are

But there are storms aplenty too, as he records, and violent rain. over the waiting. Well, let's He describes his Italian maid Elide stamping her foot like a little hope.…horse as the rains streamed down the hill, and shouting Se il Dio

– by Judith Edwardsvuol mandare il fine del mondo: che lo manda! Bring it on. www.cansurviving.comLawrence came down on the side of loving spring, however: I feel

www.judithedwards.co.uk as if my heart would jump out of my chest like a hare. Spring has a capricious way with her indeed. As

Mark Twain said about the same transitional sea-son, halfway across the world, In spring I have counted 136 different kinds of weather inside of 24 hours. Percy Bysshe Shelley, that sublime poet and revolutionary, or reckless adventurer, depending on your point of view, lived for a while at Casa Bertini above Bagni Di Lucca, with his rackety household: wife Mary, sister-in-law Claire, and children Clara and William, both of whom died young. Shelley wrote plaintively, If winter comes can spring be far behind? He composed The Sensitive Plant at Casa Bertini: Spring arose in the garden fair,/ Like the Spirit of love felt everywhere,/ And each flower and herb on Earth's dark breast,/ Rose from the dream of its winter's rest.

It all takes time, and the catkins popularly called lambs' tails in England and amento in Italy appear a long time before the lambs themselves.

Si Vede la Primavera20 - February 2015 GRAPEVINE

has kept so much of its antique charm. That's why people from all over T the world come to Lucca, isn't it? The setting is warm and welcoming as are the people who run it.

Alessandro Carmassi is the chef who has had a passion for cooking since he was a boy. Obviously his mother and grandmother knew what they were doing and he absorbed it all. Now he adds his own inventions and interpretations.

Mariella Borelli is the sweet lady with the smile always ready to help you when you walk in the door. And you can do just that. Have a piece of cheese and a glass of wine. Or buy the wine or cheese or salumi and take it home. They have really good pecorino. You can also order from the menu and take that home, with about a half hour advance notice.

Having been lucky enough to have eaten there quite a few times, I can say from experience that some of the goodies on the menu are Ravioli Ortica e Ricotta. That is ravioli stuffed with ricotta, nettles, yes nettles, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and basil. Also I once had with a sauce of gorgonzola and pears. And of course classic tordelli Lucchesi with meat sauce.

Next time we'll try the cinghiale in umido (wild boar) with polenta, and the of tuna with sesame seeds on salad. The more I think about it, the more I think I'd better get there and have at it.

– by Jenny Schutz

he first thing that attracted me to La Bottega Oste was the fact that it dell'

gnocchi

fillet

The Oste with the Most

raises farm animals and harvests wheat, but as Edwards has written a beautiful book (a years pass the world's increasing mechanization G novel, a memoire) that begins in the impacts his world. And Molly's.

womb and ends with Molly's grandmother's There is so much to love in this book, so much Christmas pudding (boiled for 12 hours, with ale self-discovery, as suggested by the and brandy to taste). cover image of a

Molly strives to come to terms with her life, wide-eyed child immortalized in bronze .starting with the trauma of a difficult birth and an I love the title Pieces of Molly – like pieces of emotionally distant mother. As the book's preface eight. Spanish doubloons, coins that controlled says, quoting Montaigne, “We are all patchwork” the world in the 16th century. Coins from and so our lives are not linear and progressive but Bolivian mountains mined by slaves and natives rather complicated and patterned in difficult at a tremendous cost in human life. Fragments of ways. It takes a lifetime to see the whole quilt. silver taken back to Europe from America.

Woven into the threads of this tale are the atmo- Judith Edwards mines the past and brings forth sphere, the geography, the physical space a rich collection of memories, memories modi-around Molly. This is a space situated in time, a fied over time, roiled and reinterpreted as the time that is non-linear and reflexive. Molly child grows into adulthood.grows up on a farm near perilous cliffs that drop www.karnacbooks.comoff into the sea. Her father whom she idolizes UK £9.99, USA $16.95

rapevine writer and psychoanalyst Judith

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HARPIST

ear Friends, the year has barely begun and after a month of fairly normal D weather, though a bit milder

than usual, we now prepare ourselves to face the month of February. Local meteo-rologists are predicting mild weather for this period. Although the orchards and gar- lower your shirt-sleeves and put on gloves, dens are still in their winter lethargy, signs possibly leather. Before removing a plant of re-awakening are beginning to appear, from a pot, look for something to wrap with the first flowerings announcing that around it (such as cardboard or polysty-spring will soon be here. As always, there rene). Prepare the new container by put-is work to be done. So between a rainy day ting some potshards in the bottom to cover and a cold one (when we can plan our pro- the drainage hole, then adding a small jects and maintain our tools), let's go out- layer of expanded clay and a bit of the soil doors and get to work. the beautiful clematis (but not the varieties recommended specifically for succulents.

Continue to check the health of the plants that flower in spring, such as the C montana). Usually you can purchase this, but if there that have been sheltered from winter in After pruning, apply fertilizer (we buy pellets isn't any available you can prepare it your-greenhouses. Before watering them, poke a and other types of organic fertilizers, these self by mixing 50% sand with 25% organic finger into the pots to see if the soil is still are always best) and distribute this not only soil and 25% neutral peat.After wrapping up humid. If they are dry then water them with- on the clematis but on all the plants in the gar- the plant, pull it out of the old pot and put it out overdoing it. den (roses, forsythia, perennials, hedges, into the new one, checking that the root sys-

If you haven't already done so, it's time to etc.). Besides organic pellet fertilizer, another tem is healthy. Position the plant inside the prune the orchard and apply a phyto- good one to use now, which the plants will new pot, taking care that the plant's neck pharmacological copper treatment to disin- benefit from throughout the next six to eight remains about two or three finger levels fect the cuts. Watch your peaches and apri- months, is cornunghia (made from animal below the border of the pot. Next fill the pot cots. When the buds begin to swell, they scraps such as horns and nails), a fertilizer with the available soil (up to the level below should be treated with Bordeaux mixture (or with a high percentage of organic azote. It the plant's neck), pressing it down lightly with a diodine-based product) to avoid peach will be absorbed by the plants (especially the with the handle of the spade that you used to boll, which causes the leaves to shrivel up. lawn) throughout the spring and summer as add the soil, or with an appropriate-sized After pruning these trees, gather the resulting needed. Another good natural fertilizer, piece of wood. Gently water the plant, pay-material and burn it. It's best not to use this readily available to those who have ing attention to not overflow the pot or dis-for compost, because the eggs of parasites woodstoves and fireplaces in their homes, is turb the soil. By following these little pre-nesting there or fungal infections might ash, produced by burning wood. Ash is high cautions you will do a good job and not get infest other plants in the area. in potassium. Distribute it around bulbs such pricked by the insidious spines characteris-

as tulips, tassel hyacinths, hyacinths, etc. to tic of most of these plants. With their some-Strolling through the garden, we often see help them with their spring flowering. times extravagent flowers they will cheer plants that need pruning. Towards the end of

the month, when the calycanthus and other Now and throughout early spring we and brighten even the coldest days.bushes stop their usual winter flowering, you should re-pot our succulents, especially Happy wintertime to all!can intervene by lightly cutting back some of cacti (Sempervivum, Echinocactus grusonii,

– by Simone Lippi, Il Cerchio Verdethe branches but leaving the plants' natural Aztekium hintonii, etc.). When dealing with shape. At this time of year drastically trim spiny plants, we often wonder how to handle 0583 316713 or 335 8354437back (to within 20 to 30 cm from the ground) them without getting poked. First of all, www.ilcerchioverde.it


Echinocactus grusonii

Aztekium hintonii

Slippages & Landslides Annual Maintenance there is a natural temptation Many sought after properties are located It is essential to carefully control the sur-to focus on the house and eas- on hills that enjoy magnificent views. To face water runoff. Water flow will ruthlessly Wily overlook the approach get there, it is not uncommon to see roads gouge out canyons on the road and do untold

road. Access roads are often taken for cut into the sides of a mountain. In the damage to the undercarriage of your vehicle! granted and tend to fall within the house 1950s, the use of motorcars became wide- The most difficult segments of road to deal hunters' blind spot. We hear of horror sto- spread and many small country lanes or with are those with a rapid incline. Roads ries about chained-up entrances with mule tracks were subsequently widened. needs a good camber or fall to one side so that neighbours pointing to an overgrown mule Nowadays much of the land above and water can be channelled into a gulley. This track as the “official” access or enormous below these access roads is in a state of gulley needs to discharge at regular intervals bills to be paid to contractors for years of neglect. You will note numerous dead trees to avoid build up of momentum and then be unpaid maintenance. The worst of all are covered in ivy and ready to topple after the diverted into the nearest natural waterway. properties that become isolated for months next storm. The combination of abandoned Keeping gullies clear of leaves and debris following a landslide. So let's look at the land with adverse weather conditions has will ensure that they operate correctly. Even five common pitfalls that we often encoun- led to many landslides occurring over the if you have the “perfect” road that is built by ter with access roads: past five years. the book, it is prudent to budget for annual

When viewing a property, try to keep a maintenance. Many of us will want to asphalt Rights of way close eye on what's going on below the road. over the white roads. If this is important to

Most people believe that ancient looking There will often be lots of undergrowth hid- you, check local regulations to ensure that access roads should present no issues. This ing old slippages or retaining structures that there are no restrictions prohibiting this. assumption may get you into serious trou- may be about to disintegrate. If a segment of ble and cost a lot of money! Land maps road slips away after a very wet winter, this Buried Services and Utilities always need to be consulted carefully to may cost you tens of thousands of euro to Should you require a new water or electri-trace every square inch of road, from where repair. Above the road, look for signs of cal meter following a restoration project, you come off a public road to the house you instability. Such tell-tale signs would be the utility company may oblige you to wish to buy. If there appears to be any devi- large indented segments, leaning trees or tilt- locate the meter housing off a public ation from the road indicated on the land ing electricity poles. Alternatively, you can road/pathway for inspection purposes. map, then get it thoroughly checked! consult local geological maps at your town Running cables or water mains down say a

If the road runs over a neighbouring par- hall to identify risk areas. 400m access road can be a very costly exer-cel, then make sure that there is a formal ser- cise so make sure that the vendor has vitude agreement in place. Alternatively Road Width and Parking addressed this problem before you commit you'll need proof that the road has been Most people are nervous about driving or at least make it part of an negotiation. there for a sufficient amount of years per- down narrow roadways especially if there haps using official aeronautical photo- are segments with sheer drops to the side. If When choosing a property try to focus a graphs and/or affidavits from neighbours. the road is very narrow, then consider plac- little more on the access, take nothing for Most vendors will tell you that there are “no ing one meter tall markers to alleviate this granted and you may save yourself a lot of problems”. In that case, get them to provide problem. Both you and your guests will unwanted stress!all the back-up documentation before you have a series of reassuring reference points commit. Keep an eye on the width of the to stay within. Once we get to the house, we David Collins, an engineer by profession, road. If the land map shows no more than a then need to ensure that there's sufficient has lived and worked in Tuscany for over mule track and you drive down a 3m wide space to park at least one car and a 20 years. He manages Our Toscana provid-road, then the chances are, you could be manoeuvring area to turn around and exit. ing house surveys, plans and permits and encroaching on neighbouring parcels of You also need to think about managing visi- undertakes all kinds of restoration projects land. A handshake agreement between two tors. If you plan to restore a property or throughout Tuscany. David lives near farmers say ten years ago will simply not build a pool, a builder will normally apply Lucca with his Italian wife and 2 children. suffice should you become the new owner a surcharge for difficulty in transporting [email protected] of the property so be careful! material in and rubble out. www.ourtoscana.com

hen viewing a property,

Tuscan Country Homes: Access Roads

Access Road SurfaceLandslide on Access Road


lot of us have experienced the we’ll ever need, if we are fit, able and British estate agents selling handy with a chain saw.techniques and their phrases: Another house has all the attributes A 'deceptively large' meaning of the first without the right of access.

it's pokey or 'has great potential' meaning The garden at the rear is large and well it's in a bit of a state, and 'must be seen' as if kept, but this time the agent points out you wouldn't look at it before buying it. that the garden belongs to the neigh-

The Italian estate agents don't seem to use bour and that this house's garden is at such phrases; instead they skirt over the the rear of the neighbour's house. The problems and make light of all the pitfalls attached garage looks very useful until and complications. We make the big mis- the agent states that it is owned by the take of looking at properties in the summer local carpenter. But the house does when the sun is shining and the flowers in have a barn, 100 metres down the road, full bloom – when even an old dilapidated which only needs a little attention to ruin looks heaven-sent – not in the winter stop the water coming in.when it's cold, miserable and the rain is A house at the top of a village sends the off by landslides in the autumn and snow in pouring down the sloping alleyways, water heart beating furiously – not from the the winter. That's only five minutes down overflowing the blocked gutters, and it’s dif- excitement of first seeing the house but the High Street in the UK, but a good twenty ficult to get a foothold on the slippery cob- from the steep climb up narrow cobbled minutes down from the hilltop village.bled streets. streets. But look at the view, the agent will Often there are problems of who owns

Most of us don't really know what type of say, trying to nullify the pain from the rap- which piece of land or who has access property we want, let alone which village idly pumping heart. But think of carrying rights. The agent will state that a driveway or town we prefer. The budget is the big groceries up from the car park, not to men- is owned solely by the house being viewed, deciding factor but beyond that we are in tion the wine, water and gas bottles! One but when we notice a car parked alongside the hands of the estate agent. The agent would need a donkey. the house the agent may state that they takes us to a very appealing large detached The seller intends leaving all the kitchen have no right to park there and the matter house with a lovely south-facing private units, including the sink. And it's got a can easily be resolved by a visit to the local patio, ideal for a bbq. The advantages of a bread oven. I'm not sure my wife would solicitor. detached house become apparent: privacy take to a timber-fired bread oven as much After viewing 20-30 properties, we now with no overlooking. Then the agent men- as she has to her electric bread maker. Mind know exactly what to look for and what is tions in passing that the occupants of the you, most properties only have a 3 kw sup- within the budget: a detached house in a hill-house next door have a right of way straight ply. She may have to sacrifice the bread top village. It must have an outbuilding to across the patio, since that is their only maker to prevent all the fuses tripping when keep a donkey, a large garden for grazing means of access to their house. As if to con- turning on more than one appliance on at and bedding for the donkey, a wood to pro-sole us the agent adds that the occupant is the same time. vide logs for the wood burner, a pizza oven an old lady who will not cause any prob- A house in a hillside village will inevita- and a bread oven. We will also need a slush lems. The house has no central heating but bly cost less, but the splendid view comes fund of about 10,000 euros for legal fees it does have a wood burner and a small with a price, that being the five-kilometer arising from disputes with the neighbours.wood at the side, supplying all the free logs drive down steep winding roads, often cut – by Samuel Osbourne


... and it's got a Bread Oven– A cautionary tale

iareggio bursts with its annual carnival follies, as Proposal, suggesting that Irish dedicated to the theme of political satire with babies could be cooked into an

glorious floats wafting their way along the Lungomare, excellent stew, to solve the problems while Forte dei Marmi's international Premio Satira of hunger and overpopulation in VPolitica is now entering its 42nd year of existence. Ireland. Lewis Carroll's Alice in

Gli Insospettabili della Satira, the most recent exhibition at the Wonderland has often been mined Museum of Satire and Caricature (in the Fort of Leopoldo I, at the for political references, the War of town center), is dedicated to two Italian satirists. Pino Nunziante's the Roses being the most obvious. drawings (see 1,2 below) and Enrico Parrini's photomontages Ionesco, Dario Fo and Rabelais are with local politicians (see 3 below) offer satire in a light and local- a few more literary and theatrical ized vein. The museum has an excellent archive, a video collection examples. and a multi-medial archive. During the 1800s Honoré

Satire, in both verbal and artistic Daumier created lithographs form, has a long history. The Greek and sculptures caricaturing public figures. In Italy L’Asino writer Aristophanes offered a satiric (The Donkey) was published from 1892 to 1925. The French solution to end the Peloponnesian publication Le Canard Enchainé (founded 1915) has War with his character Lysistrata, included among its artists the Italian Pino Zac (see 4).who told her companions that if they The looking glass reflects and distorts the image. withheld sexual favors from men Sometimes it's funny and sometimes it's bitter and provok-the war would soon end. Erasmus ing. Still, as children know, folly is fun, and too much seri-wrote The Praise of Folly in 1509; ousness is boring. Cogent wit is often a game for adults, to this essay helped prepare the way be played and displayed. Evviva il Carnevale!for the Protestant Reformation by

– by Norma Jean Bishopmocking classical learning and the Catholic Church. Jonathan Swift used hyperbole to contest heartless social policies in his essay A Modest

always

Forte dei Marmi City of Satire

The pen is mightier than the sword…Laughter is the best medicine…

A picture is worth a thousand words…

The Museum will move to Villa Bertelli (www.villabertelli.it) at Via Mazzini 200, Vittoria Apuana (Forte dei Marmi) this month, and remain there while a lift is being installed at the Fort, for the convenience of its visitors.

Museum of Satire www.museosatira.itTel. 0584 876277 or 0584 85312

Email [email protected]

The City of Forte dei Marmi and the Political Satire Prize

cry for the death of the satirical cartoonists of “Charlie Hebdo” and all the other victims.

The Town is close to the families and to France in this moment of pain

and reaffirms the principles of democracy and liberty dear to us all.

Mayor Umberto Buratti

Posted on the wall of the museum

(1) Forte dei Marmi

(2) Questa è l’Italia?

(3) The running of the bulls in Forte, led by local politicians (photomontage)

(4)

Leo

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ac

Garage Dal Pino Massimo & C.Via E. Mattei, 525/M

Zona Industriale55100 Mugnano (LUCCA)

Tel. +39 0583 440161Fax +39 0583 050264

Mechanic

Country house in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqm withgarden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parking for 3cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms, 3 bath-rooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garage and largecantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold furnished andready to use as a B&B. €245,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)

Villina delle Rose near San Macario, 15 kmwest of Lucca and 15 km east of Camaiorebeach, is a beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroomhome with terrace. Garden, orchard (esp. cher-ries) and olives. 100+ m2 house, 20m2 ga-rage/annex, 1500 m2 land. 235,000 euros. 3480178867 – 0583 331490. (Ref. 1054)

PROPERTY FOR SALEGrapevine will advertise for individuals and act as mediator/ interpreterwith potential clients world-wide, using qualified geometers for alltechnical and professional aspects of sales and rentals.

Above , old stone home beautifully renovated. Kitchen,workroom, sitting room, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, small study. 3 levels, 130 sqm.Panoramic, lovely garden (approx. 300 sqm), nearby olive grove and off-street parking, on the edge of a small village which has its own foodshop anddaily bus service. Lucca is 35-40 minutes by car. (Ref. 1012)

Big old stone 19th century house with beams and cottoto renovate. 180 sqm, courtyard. €65,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 903)

: Panoramic terraced , 3300 sqm. Approx. 200trees with 45 sqm stone water and some grapevines andfruit trees. €40,000 OBO. (Ref. 996)

of 170smq on 1 hectare of land near Bagni di Lucca, withpool (12x5). 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Plans are available for building 2 morehouses on the property, one 120 sqm, other 210 sqm. Holiday house reserva-tions already booked throughout 2014. 700,000 euros. (Ref. 1014)

home for sale in thetown of Camporgiano (30 minutes north ofLucca), with 4 bedrooms. Built in the 1920's.256 sqm, independent on 4 sides. €230,000 orbest offer. (Ref. 989)

10 minutes from Bagni di Luccawith breathtaking view of Pratofiorito. 300 sqmwith 3000 sqm of cleared land. On 3 levels.€600,000. Ideal for an extended family or justpeace and quiet, enjoyment of nature but with afine restaurant at walking distance. To be fin-ished according to your desires. (Ref. 992)

from Bagni to Benabbio, traditionalhouse, approx. 120 sqm, overlooking the Lima River.Downstairs: kitchen, living room with fireplace.Upstairs: 3 bedrooms, bathroom. Property includessteeply terraced land behind, partly cleared, mostly for-est. Considering the situation on the road, the down-stairs could be converted into a small business, with liv-ing space upstairs. €155,000. (Ref. 1000)

near center of Bagni diLucca, to be finished to buyer specifications,each with 1000 sqm of land, offering space for aswimming pool. One, 270 sqm on two levels,with garage €450,000. Second, 300 sqm on threelevels, generous-sized living and dining rooms,with garage. Overlooking the village church.Bedroom doors open onto scenic terraces, marblestairs indoor and stone steps outdoors. €600,000(Ref. 991)

in the Compitese hills215sqm, 2 hectares of fruit & olive trees. 2residences with separate entrances: one 3bedrooms 3 baths, the other 3 bedrooms 2baths. Beautiful kitchens & fireplaces,traditional Tuscan style. Double garage, gatedproperty, outdoor pizza oven, plenty of spacefor a pool. Furnishings available. (Ref. 867)

Ponte a Moriano

S. Ginese di Compito

Compitese hills olive grove

Beautiful home

Large, well-maintained

New home

On the road

Newly-built homes

Peaceful country villa .

(secolari), metato,

Country house in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqm withgarden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parking for 3cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms, 3 bath-rooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garage and largecantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold furnished andready to use as a B&B. €245,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)

Villina delle Rose near San Macario, 15 kmwest of Lucca and 15 km east of Camaiorebeach, is a beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroomhome with terrace. Garden, orchard (esp. cher-ries) and olives. 100+ m2 house, 20m2 ga-rage/annex, 1500 m2 land. 235,000 euros. 3480178867 – 0583 331490. (Ref. 1054)

Modern apartment with terrace

Lovely Tuscan home

Beautifully renovated apartment

just outside Porta Elisa. 130 sqm,€320,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1037)

surrounded by olive and fruit trees. 3 bedrooms, 3 gor-geous bathrooms, large fireplace. 10 minutes drive to Lucca. 333 8617962.Pool included € 950,000. (Ref. 1048)

inside thehistoric walls of Lucca. In 500-year-old palaz-zo comprising entrance, 2 bed (possibly 3-4), 2bath, tower w study, separate living, dining,kitchen, laundry. 198 sqm. Safe, secure, quiet.Unfurnished or fully furnished. Photos /de-tails: www.passioneitalia.info or contactowner on 340 8114903, [email protected](Ref. 1046)

(also visible - with photos - at www.luccagrapevine.com)

26 - February 2015 G ERAPEVIN

Classified Advertisements

Tel. 0572 32683

Cell. 328 2588959

www.ourtoscana.com

Property SurveysHouse Plans & Permits

Restorations

Piazza S. Maria 32 - Lucca Tel. 0583.496682

www.ciclibizzarri.net E-mail: [email protected]

Bicycle RentalsSportswearAccessoriesRepairs and salesNew and used bicycles

Forget how you learned languages at school!

Removals

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servicing the UK with regular

trips every 2-3 weeks.

Beautiful country home 30 min. south

of Pisa (towards Collesalvetti). Hectare

of land with outdoor Jacuzzi. Kitchen

with fireplace. Cottage with thermo-

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w/ rustic wooden floor, 3 bedrooms, 3

baths. Approx. 160 sqm. Terrace, dog

pen, well-lit grounds, 2 entrances.

€700,000. (Ref. 1029)

Sardinia near Tempio Pausania

Old stone home

Private Italian classes

HATHAYOGA in ENGLISH

Accountant

Chiropractor

Dental Surgeon

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Lawyer

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Naturopathy Shiatsu massage

Marketing agent wanted

Landscape design & Garden

Advertising with Grapevine costs as little as €10.

large pan-

oramic villa in a cork oak grove, 360 sqm on 2

levels. 1st: large with fireplace, arch-

way, 2 bedrooms, bath, kitchen, storeroom,

cantina. 2nd: large with fireplace, live-

in kitchen, 4 bedrooms, 2 baths, service bath.

Surrounding land 2300 sqm. Confidential ne-

gotiations. (Ref. 929)

in the Compitese. 20 minutes' drive from Lucca

Centro. 3 bedrooms with A/C, bath, kitchen with large fireplace,

wooden beams, terra-cotta floors, beautiful views, peaceful garden.

Approx. 130 sqm. Partly furnished. €900 per month (8 month

minimum). (Ref. 993)

Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers indi-

vidual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with inter-

preting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell.

347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Experienced instruction, in Lucca Monday

and Friday mornings. For information call Joann 331 834 6850 (Ref. 1055)

Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville

354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.

Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale

S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.

Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi

25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/

German. [email protected]

Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo.

Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca.

Tel 0583 467975, [email protected]

Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts Piazzale

Ricasoli, 241 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email

[email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict

connection with surveyors who speak English fluently.

Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Ungaretti 144, 55100 Lucca.

Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

, Enrico Chiesa. Centro DharmaYoga.

Via Pesciatina 385, Lucca. Tel. 347 7420449.

for international magazine based in Lucca.

Commission-based work. Ideal for mobile, energetic, out-going bilingual

people. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1041)

maintenance [email protected]

\www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)

salone

salone

(geometri)

2-bedroom

Furnished apartment

apartment in Sant'Anna available for 2-3 people, short

stays. Terrace, elevator. Pleasant pied-a-terre while visiting Lucca. (Ref.

1034)

in Tuscan style, 2nd and final floor in Centro

Storico. 100sqm with 3 bedrooms, large luminous kitchen overlooking in-

side gardens. The bedrooms can sleep 6 and there is a sofa-bed that sleeps 2

in the living room. (Ref. 1033)

–

Forget how you learned languages at school!

Removals

I provide fun, practical

language activities for learning Italian and English. In person or via

Skype, plus language holidays. Email: [email protected] (Ref.

1053)

Local, National, European,

Full professional packing and export wrapping ser-

vice. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at

[email protected] or 340 8748222 (Ref. 771)

Translations

New Steiner-Waldorf play-group

Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced

mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)

for children 3 to 6. Via Filzi 23, Lucca

(just outside the Walls). Water-colours, games, poetry, modelling, dance,

fairy tales, word play, weaving, music.... Call Marina (329 3222859) or

Lorenza (340 5366511) or write to [email protected]

(Ref. 1050)

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisers on these pages and assumes

no responsibility for the content of these announcements.

PROPERTY FOR RENT

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

VARIOUS

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca.

Tel 0583 492853.

servicing the UK with regular

trips every 2-3 weeks.

G ERAPEVIN February 2015 - 27

Quality TranslationsInterpreting service

Traduzioni di qualitàInterpretariato

Tel. 0583 909012Fax 0583 908849

email:[email protected]

TranslationsG ERAPEVIN Il Cerchio Verde

Design and installation gardensterraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

di Sammy Giusti

�

�

�

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Tires

Electrical andmechanical repairs

Authorized inspection station

Specialist in American cars

Via delle Ville 1041/A -San Marco 55100 ~ Luccatel. & fax +39 [email protected]

Pon

tiac

GT

OJu

dge

-19

70

51st Season 2015 Concert tickets: Whole: € 12,00; Reduced: € 10,00INFORMATION: AML OfficesVia San Micheletto, 3 - 55100 Lucca tel. and fax 0583 469960

Sunday ��Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 5:00 pm�� Giampaolo Bandini guitarCesare Chiacchiaretta accordion and bandoneonFrancesco Cerrato violinStefano Cerrato cello� ��

Sunday ��Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 5:00 pmAlessandro Carbonare clarinetElisa Papandrea violinMonaldo Braconi piano� �� !��"�!�#��$��$

Saturday �� %�&�''�Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 10:30 am"��! ��!��(�)��*��+��"�� (�Incontro con Enrico Bronzi cello,Giovanni Gnocchi cello, Lorenzo Micheli guitar

Saturday ��Sala Associazione Industriali, Palazzo Bernardini - 5:00 pm"�)��! ��(��!Book presentation “I capricci di Bernarduccio”(Maria Pacini Fazzi Editore)Aneddoti, umori e costume nel diario musicaledi Giacomo Puccini seniorby Fabrizio Guidotti

Sunday �,��Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 5:00 pm-�-��.�-�.��* �&��"��/�%��Enrico Bronzi celloGiovanni Gnocchi celloLorenzo Micheli guitar� "�� (��$!��(��.��$��+(�(�

Friday 01�� %�&�''�Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 10:30 am��2+��(+�++��3��Encounter with singer Michela Lombardi

Sunday 00��Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 5:00 pmSandro Ivo Bartoli piano� "� 4"�$�(�� 5�(��(�#��(��*�$�!

Sunday �� Sala dell’Affresco - Complesso San Micheletto - 5:00 pmLaura Marzadori violin, Leonora Armellini piano� ��(��$$� (�� 2((

Sunday �� Sala dell’Affresco - Complesso San Micheletto - 5:00 pm-�-��.�-�.��.�%�'�-�6Quartetto Nous strings� /�(��-��$$��!

Sunday �,�� Sala dell’Affresco - Complesso San Micheletto - 5:00 pmPietro De Maria piano� 78��8�"�

Thursday �9�� %�&�''�Istituto Musicale «L. Boccherini» Auditorium - 10:30 am ��2��(�(+�!�! ��5��:�*;��$��;2��by Gaetano Donizetti, performed by the Istituto Musicale «L.Boccherini» singing classes of M° G. Dagnino and Prof.sa M. P. Ionata

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MILANO 2015

Con il Patrocinio di

NUTRIRE IL PIANETAENERGIA PER LA VITA

media partner

Amadeus

ASSOCIAZIONE MUSICALE LUCCHESE

O.N.L.U.S.

CONCERTSand events in the «MUSICA RAGAZZI» cycle for the months of February and March 2015

G Year XXII No. 1 - February 2015 € 2 RAPEVINE · duced to the work of Raffaello Isola. His...

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Transcript of G Year XXII No. 1 - February 2015 € 2 RAPEVINE · duced to the work of Raffaello Isola. His...