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front cover

NAME: Isaac RodleyWORKPLACE: New City BarbersMODEL: SaulPHOTOGRAPHER: Sabin Holloway

We‘re off to a busy start to the year.

The first major HITO event of any year is the Apprentice Boot Camp. Our seven Regional Apprentice of the Year winners made their way to the L’Oréal Academy to learn from some of the best. Boot Camp is designed to help our top apprentices push themselves further to realise their potential. It was a fantastic experience for everyone involved.We can’t wait to see what our learners achieve with what they learned.

This issue is packed with practical tutorials as well as practical advice from apprentices and qualified barbers, beauty therapists and hairdressers. I’m sure you’ll find something new to learn.

As I mentioned, this is only the start of a busy year at HITO. We’ve got our AGM in April, Industry Awards in November, Got a Trade 2016 and New Zealand Fashion Week to name just a few. Industry Awards application are open now. Visit www.industryawards.co.nz to download an application.

One of our newest events this year is Barbercraft. It’s the first event of its kind in New Zealand with the goal of encouraging barbers to come together in Auckland to share their expertise, engage with the barbering community and get access to all things barbering in NZ. Barbercraft was in mid-May. It was fantastic to see so many people there

We are excited to announce a revamp of Forma. From this issue onwards Forma will become a members only benefit. We value the work our members do in supporting HITO and we want to provide Forma to them in return. If you would like to become a member please email members@hito.org.nz. Remember HITO trainees and their employers can be members for free.

Erica Cumming CEO of HITO

Commercial barbering

GET QUALIFIED AS A BARBER

B A R B E R I N G 1

B A R B E R I N G

The skills you learn are:

• beard and moustache shaping

• clipper over comb

• scissor over comb

• razor over comb

• wet shaving

• blow drying

• scissor cutting

• razor cutting

• clipper cutting.

You also learn customer service and barbershop skills like

greeting clients and restocking products. Barbering trainees

and apprentices also complete some first-aid training.

Barbering Apprenticeships

You can only get qualified in Commercial Barbering through

HITO and most of our trainees complete their qualifications

while in an apprenticeship. Apprenticeships are a practical

and affordable way to get qualified and learn the right skills

to be a successful barber. Apprentices work in and get paid

to train in a barbershop. There’s no better way to learn than

practicing real skills on real clients in a real barbershop.

An apprenticeship takes 30 months and costs only about

$1600 – that’s less than $13 a week!

HITO is proud to launch the New Zealand Certificate in Commercial Barbering Level 4.

Commercial Barbering gives you all the technical and workplace skills you need to be a commercially successful barber. This qualification is nationally and internationally recognised, and proves you’ve got what it takes to be a successful barber.

2

B A R B E R I N G

If you want a challenge and barbering is the job for you, then find out more by emailing info@hito.org.nz

The last six months

It’s all about preparing for the final assessment. This assessment tests all the skills the apprentice learns through-out their training and makes sure they’re ready to operate as a senior barber in a barbershop.

• Perform barbering services and run a barber chair in a commercial salon

First year

Barbering apprentices start by learning customer service skills. Apprentices learn about barbering tools and techniques and how hair works. They also learn basic

cutting and styling skills and start working on clients soon after they start.

• Demonstrate knowledge of trichology

• Apply initial barbering techniques

• Select and maintain barbering tools and equipment

• Display products in the salon environment

• Demonstrate knowledge of sustainability concepts for a salon

• Provide first aid for life threatening conditions

• Describe the fundamentals of wet shaving

• Create appointments and maintain appointment systems and records in the salon environment

• Apply knowledge of services and workflow in the salon environment

• Select and recommend hair products

• Demonstrate knowledge of personal health and hygiene, and self-styling, for working in a salon

• Demonstrate knowledge of professional behaviour and legal requirements for a salon

• Demonstrate safe and professional practice in the salon environment

Second year

Apprentices learn about wet shaving and beard and moustache shaping. They gain more advanced cutting and styling skills and learn more about the hair and scalp

and how they work. They also gain more business and salon skills.

• Describe the development of barbering

• Blow dry hair using barbering techniques

• Design and shape beards and moustaches

• Complete a haircut using barbering techniques

• Wet shave facial hair using a cutthroat razor

• Consult with client for barbering services and analyse hair and scalp conditions

• Demonstrate and apply knowledge of money matters and personal responsibility in the salon environment

• Apply knowledge of common hair and scalp conditions to complete a limited scope consultation

• Apply knowledge of hair and scalp conditions to analyse and select corrective treatments for the hair and scalp

• Manage conversation and interactions to create and maintain an atmosphere suitable for a barber shop

• Develop a health and safety plan for a commercial salon

ALREADY AN EXPERIENCED BARBER?If you’ve got five years of recent barbering experience and want to get qualified, HITO can help with that. You don’t need to do a whole apprenticeship – you can apply to get qualified using Qualification by Experience or QbyE.

QbyE allows experienced barbers to gain their Commercial Barbering qualification based on their experience. After you apply, an assessor has a conversation with you about your skills. Based on that, you may have to do a few assessments or demonstrations, and then sit a final assessment. The process takes about six months. The more experience you have, the quicker you can finish. If you’ve already got the skills, why not get the qualification too? It’s straightforward, non-threatening, can be done in complete confidence, and HITO is there to help the whole way.

If you’re up for training the next generation of apprentice barbers, then get your Commercial Barbering qualification this year.

3

B A R B E R I N G

I chose to do an apprenticeship because I like working with my hands and interacting with a wide range of people. My favourite part is learning something and being able to put it into practice immediately.

I never want to be satisfied with ‘okay’ haircuts. My goal is

to always produce high quality haircuts.

Here I wanted to create something classic but bold. I also

aimed to show restraint in the head shape and hair type.

To create this look, I started by fading the back and side

down to a zero using a freehand clipper over comb

technique. I made sure to leave a solid weight line around

the perimeter of the head. I created a side part on the

top and then shaped the hair into a pompadour using scissors and texturisers. I used my hands and a hair dryer to build volume on top. I used Reuzel Grease – Medium Hold to style the hair.

Thanks to New City Barbers for giving me a place with sweet music, different customers and where it’s all good to be yourself. Thanks to Sabin Holloway for the time, passion and input when taking the photos and to my boss Chris Terry for teaching me how to cut hair.

Name: Tim Ellis // Workplace: New City Barbers // Model: James // Photographer: Sabin Holloway

Barber styles TIM ELLIS, NEW CITY BARBERS

4

B A R B E R I N G

Name: Isaac Rodley // Workplace: New City Barbers // Model: Saul // Photographer: Sabin Holloway

Meet Isaac and learn how he created this photographic work.

“My favourite part of being an apprentice is working in a real

barbershop. I love the environment. I was lucky to get the

job at New City Barbers.

My main career goal is to keep training and get qualified as

a barber.

For this look I wanted to create a modern twist on an old-

school haircut. The work was for the HITO Barbering Photo

Challenge. I created a medium fade on the sides using

clippers. To create the top of the look, I used a clipper over

comb technique and then followed up with scissors to finish

up the look. I used Reuzel Medium Grease Hold to style

the hair.

Thanks to my boss Chris Terry for training me. Thanks also

to my photographer Sabin and model Saul for the time they

put in to help me create this work.

Tim and Isaac created their photographic work for the HITO Barbering Photo Challenge. After judging by an industry expert, Isaac was the winner. He won a two scissor kit from our sponsor A Sharper Blade.

Congratulations and thanks to both Tim and Isaac.

Barber styles ISAAC RODLEY, NEW CITY BARBERS

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B A R B E R I N G

Q U A L I F I E D A T K E L L S

Kells Barbers in Papamoa is leading the way in barbering training

Owner Andrea Kell is passionate about her trade and about seeing people get qualified. At Kells Barbers, each person is either nationally qualified in barbering or currently working towards their qualification.

“Qualifications are important because they let the client know they’re being looked after by an experienced, professional barber,” says Andrea. “Qualifications show that you’re serious about your trade because you‘ve invested not only financially but personally into your chosen vocation.”

For Andrea, getting qualified in barbering was something she had always intended to do. She had initially completed City and Guilds hairdressing training in the United Kingdom before discovering her love for barbering, but she had no formal qualifications. After opening Kells Barbers in 2011 she got in touch with HITO and got qualified using QbyE. QbyE, is all about helping people get qualified using the experience they already have.

Andrea wanted to get qualified so she could train apprentices. She believes it’s the responsibility of all experienced barbers to pass on their skills and knowledge. While signing-up to train your first apprentice can be scary, Andrea says it’s rewarding as well.

“I was nervous when I committed to training my first apprentice, but it was an amazing experience and an education for me too. It makes you rediscover the industry all over again. Once they’re trained you know they’ll not only have the skills you taught them, but they’ll also gain your

work ethic. You know that your business is in great hands

when you’re not there. You’ll be acquiring an asset for you

and your business.”

One thing that Andrea particularly enjoys about training

apprentices is watching them grow and develop in confidence

and skill over time. Andrea has witnessed first-hand how

someone who is shy and nervous can be transformed into

a confident and amazing barber over 15 months.

“It’s fantastic to see how the apprentices mature, gain

confidence and develop a genuine and exciting passion for

barbering. I’m very proud to say that Kells now has three

qualified barbers and two first year apprentices who are

currently in training. In 12 months I will be looking for another

apprentice.”

Along with the other perks of being qualified, Andrea also

likes the way it shows that women can be just as successful

and capable as males in the barbering industry.

“I’m still amazed at how many men do not accept female

barbers because they still regard us as hairdressers. The

fact that they can see that I’m a qualified barber may teach

them that female barbers are as capable as our fellow

male barbers.”

LEFT – RIGHT: Rebekah Pratt (qualified through an apprenticeship), Mokoia Brandon (current apprentice), Laura Wells (qualified through QbyE), Andrea Kell (qualified through QbyE), Sam Takai (current apprentice).

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B A S I C B A R B E R I N G T E C H N I Q U E S

Peter Wells of Ali Babas takes you through some foundation barbering techniques

Like all apprentices, barbers start by learning foundation techniques. Peter takes you through some of the basic barbering cuts and cutting techniques and then shows the correct way to apply those techniques on a client.

Before you can use basic barbering techniques on a client, you need to learn what the different techniques are and how they work.

Clipper A short, blunt, even finish.

Clipper using attachment

A short, layered, blunt, even finish.

Free hand clipper

A blunt, sculpted finish.

Scissor cuttingA blunt, even finish (not a traditional barbering technique).

Scissor over comb

A layered, blunt, even finish.

Razor cuttingCreates texturized hair, removes bulk, and gives you an uneven finish.

Razor over comb

A layered, texturised, uneven finish.

Barbering cutting techniques

As a barber, you need to know seven cutting techniques and their effect on hair.

Graduation Short back & sides hairstyle, faded with length at the top.

Increase layer Mullet hairstyle, shorter length at top getting longer at the bottom.

Solid form Bob hairstyle, longer hair at top getting shorter in one length.

Uniform layer Clipper cut, all same length.

Nape shaping The correct tapering for the hairstyle working with the hair-line to finish and shape the back.

Line outs To bluntly cut and shape the perimeter of the haircut (boxed).

Free hand clipper

To sculpt and give a solid and precise finish.

#0-4 Clipper guard work

Smooth graduation.

Blunt cutting Straight cut, blunt solid even finish, bulky result.

Texturising Feathered cut, thin uneven finish, blended result.

Barbering haircut types

There are four different haircut types you need to learn about

as a barber. They are:

Barbering techniques

These are four finishing techniques important to any barber.

Blunt cutting and texturising

You’ll use both these techniques frequently in your barbering career.

B A R B E R I N G

Applying what you know

Once you’ve learned the techniques above, it’s time to use them on a real client.

Step 1

The first step is to always consult with your client. Agree on the haircut they need and discuss whether they’d like any other services. Over a 30 second conversation, I discovered that my client, Hayden, wants “a short back and sides” haircut and would also like his nose hair trimmed.

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B A R B E R I N G

Step 3

Protect the client by using a cape and neck strip. The client should leave with clean clothes and skin. There should be no spilt product or loose hair.

Step 2

STOP! Don’t start cutting yet. You need to analyse the hair and scalp to make sure it’s okay to go ahead with the cut you’ve planned. After analysing Hayden’s hair and scalp, I discovered:

• Movement – the hair moves left to right

and down at the back.

• Growth pattern – he has a single crown

and a cowlick at the front.

• Scalp irregularities – there is a wart on

the top right side.

• Scalp condition – the scalp is dry and

flaky with a potential melanoma.

• Texture – the hair texture is medium.

• Density – the hair is thick and high

density per square centimetre.

• Length – short.

• Porosity – resistant.

• Elasticity – good.

Before you go ahead with the cut, check the cut the client wants is possible based on the hair and scalp analysis. Also check if the cut will meet the client’s needs.

Example of an achievable cut for Hayden

Example of a cut that is not achievable

Step 4

Select the tools you need. You’ll know what you need based on the cut you’re trying to achieve and the sort of hair your client has.

Step 5

Start cutting. For Hayden’s hair, I used scissor over comb, clipper over comb, clipper with a guard, neck trimmers, free hand clipper and line outs.

Make sure your grip on the clippers is right. If it’s not, you could find yourself with anything from a bad haircut to a hand or wrist injury.

8

B A R B E R I N G

Step 8

Get rid of all the loose hair left behind from trimming the neck hair.

Step 11

Clean up. Remove the client’s protection and make sure their clothes are clean and free of hair and product.

Once your client has left, you need to clean up your work area. Sanitise your tools thoroughly and clean your work station. Remember to wash your hands.

Step 9

Finish up by styling the hair with product. Remember to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Also make sure your styling and choice of products meet the desired outcome agreed at the consultation.

Step 10

Show the client the finished style using the back mirror. Make sure the style meets their requirements.

Step 6

It’s time for the finishing steps. Hayden wants his nose hair trimmed. At this point you’d also remove ear or eyebrow hair if the client had requested it.

Step 7

Next up, trim the hair at the base of the neck. You need to remove the cape and neck strip carefully before you trim the neck hair.

9

b o ot C a m pOur seven Regional Apprentice of the Year winners head to Boot Camp

Most apprentices can only dream of spending a weekend with some of New Zealand’s top stylists and mentors. This dream became a reality in February when our seven top apprentices went to HITO Boot Camp.

HITO hosts Boot Camp each year for the HITO Apprentice of the Year regional winners. It’s jam-packed full of workshops and educational sessions, giving the apprentices a chance to be inspired, challenged and motivated to develop their careers.

Boot Camp took place at the L’Oreal Academy in the heart of Auckland and included sessions from some of New Zealand’s top hair professionals. HITO partnered again with internationally renowned hair stylist Mana Dave to host the event. Mana shared his wisdom and experience with the apprentices in several sessions.

Other Boot Camp highlights included a session with Mikaela Edwards (Runway, Gore) who won Gold at Wella’s International Trend Vision Awards last year and a workshop with award-winning stylist and successful business owner Rebecca Brent (Willis York, Wellington).

Instead of focusing only on hairdressing skills, some Boot Camp sessions also covered topics such as networking,

public speaking and how to use social media effectively.

The apprentices say they left Boot Camp feeling inspired,

confident and motivated to move forward in their careers.

“Boot Camp was amazing, probably one of the most rewarding

learning experiences I’ve had in my career!” says Jenny

Eastwood (Morph Hair Studio, Hamilton). “I gained so much

clarity about who I am and where I want to go direction-wise

with hairdressing. Everything we learnt seemed to relate so

much to what is important to me at this stage in my career.

I loved it and wish I could go again next year.”

Courtney Jackson from Be Ba Bo Hair Studio in New Plymouth

echoed Jenny’s comments. “I’m so honoured to have had this

opportunity and learnt so much from it. Words can’t explain

how invaluable this time at Boot Camp was and I am still so

pumped sharing it with all my colleagues at work.”

“Even after my third time, Boot Camp has been so different

each year and so inspirational,” she adds.

B A R B E R I N G10

B A R B E R I N G

Jenny and Courtney are just two of the seven Apprentice of the Year regional winners who took part in Boot Camp:

• Jessica Ganley, Oscar and Co, Auckland – Northern Regional Winner

• Kelly Manu, BLAZE, Auckland – Auckland Regional Winner

• Jenny Eastwood, Morph Hair Studio, Hamilton – Midland Regional Winner and Runner-Up for the overall Apprentice of the Year award

• Courtney Jackson, Be Ba Bo Hair Studio, New Plymouth – Mid-Central Regional Winner and overall HITO Apprentice of the Year winner

• Elana McCarrison, Lifestyle Hair Studio, Paraparaumu – Central Regional Winner

• Libby Morton, True Grit Hair Spa, Christchurch – Northern South Regional Winner

• Hannah Oxley, Do Hair, Invercargill – Southern South Regional Winner

Each won their highly contested regional title and earned a spot at Boot Camp through hard work, dedication and passion for their apprenticeships.

THE PRESENTERSWe were privileged to have a talented and generous group of people who openly shared their skills, knowledge and commitment. Special thanks to Maloney’s Barbershop for giving the apprentices a tour of their facilities and insight into the world of barbering.

MANA DAVE

Mana is an internationally renowned platform stylist. He has a myriad of awards to his name including being named the INDUSTRY Educator of the Year (2015) and INDUSTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year (2015). Mana owns successful Auckland salon BLAZE and is passionate about training the next generation of stylists in New Zealand.

LARISSA MACLEMAN

For over 20 years Larissa owned award-winning Wellington salon Blue Cactus. This salon had a team of 25+ employees and won the prestigious title of HITO Training Salon of the Year in 2012. Larissa is now the Business Development Manager at Timely, a leading salon software product, where she helps salons come to grips with technology on a daily basis.

REBECCA BRENT

Rebecca is an award-winning stylist and the owner and Director of Wellington’s Willis York salon. In 2014, Rebecca won the prestigious Supreme Award at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Awards and was named New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year 2013/14. Rebecca enjoys training the next generation and is an ambassador for the L’Oreal Artistic Team.

NADINE GRATTON

Nadine was the HITO Apprentice of the Year winner in 2014. She also represented New Zealand in Brazil at the International WorldSkills 2015 competition. Now a qualified stylist, Nadine recently moved from Nelson to Blenheim to pursue her dream of owning a salon.

MIKAELA EDWARDS

Mikaela is an award-winning stylist from Runway salon in Gore. Last year she represented New Zealand in Berlin for the International Wella Trend Vision Awards where she won Gold in the Young Talent section. She shared her training wisdom with the group.

SHARON VAN GULIK

Sharon has over 25 years’ experience driving strategic growth, reputation, brand experience, marketing and public relations for leading corporate, not-for-profit, fast moving consumer goods, government and educational organisations. She is an accomplished public speaker and has successfully trained many people in this skill. Sharon is also a member of the HITO Board.

CHINNEY YEAP

Chinney has many achievements under her belt, including winning Wella Colourist of the Year at INDUSTRY Hair Event last year. Chinney works at Dharma Hairsalon in Auckland, she’s a Joico NZ guest artist and contributes to MiNDFOOD magazine.

The next Industry Awards will be in November 2016. Applications for Apprentice of the Year are available from the HITO website.

11

It’s the year to ‘up the game’ on skin diagnosis in your salon. 2016 is the year to create results-driven salon options for your clients and team. With plenty of new technology available, it’s easy to upgrade your business and provide skin diagnosis at the top of your game.

Our clients need to trust our professional advice. Imagine how enthusiastically your client would embrace their home care regime if you could:

• visually confirm your professional analysis while seated alongside your client

• train your eyes and your client’s eyes to see more diagnostically

• match your homecare and in-salon regimes to your client’s exact needs.

I firmly believe that clients want a results-driven skincare routine. They don’t just want to laze about at your salon – they want a return on their investment. To keep your clients coming back, you need to make sure they’re getting the return on their investment they want. Think strategically and future-proof your services.

Let’s start with an education upgrade. The appearance of the surface of the skin is the result of a complex interaction between:

1. light revealing the fine textures and glyphic patterns of the surface

2. the shine of the light reflecting off the lipid film

3. the scattering of light through rough or dry cells

4. the layers of the human skin (both in an optical or biological sense).

The human skin is not opaque. The epidermis is a transparent optical medium and the dermis is mainly a turbid (milky and cloudy) medium. When observing the skin, a significant part of its appearance is the result of light passing through the skin and illuminating its inner works.

When light passes through the skin, it is scattered, absorbed

in different ways and then reflected back out. The cell membranes and vascular structures beneath the skin reflect and diffuse light. As a result, the appearance of the skin is affected by the health of all layers of the skin.

We need to take all of this into account when completing skin diagnosis. We don’t need to leave it up to our eyes, either – there is plenty of technology available to help.

Investing in technology will help you up your skin diagnosis game. It will ensure you always have the best skin diagnosis available, which future-proofs your business and gives your clients the best return on their investment.

The technology available today uses different modes to highlight different aspects of the skin. You’ll get an instant view of your clients’ skin, allowing you to provide quick and in-depth skin diagnosis services. What client wouldn’t go to the business that can provide a comprehensive analysis of their skin in less than 25 seconds (as one Netherlands-based device, the OBSERV, can do)?

You’ll be able to clearly show your client the current state of their skin and back up your professional diagnosis with clear visual proof. Both you and your client will be sure that they’ve got the best skin care routine for them. And you’ll be able to show them the results too, using the same technology used to diagnose their skin in the first place.

As you come to the end of the financial year, why not start planning to future-proof your salon? Start researching and budgeting for the equipment you want. Make an appointment with your accountant or business coach to discuss how you can up your game and create those results driven skincare routines your clients want.

Article provided by Margaret Walsh Consulting.

up Your skin diagnosis game

By Margaret Walsh

B U S I N E S S12

H A I R D R E S S I N G

The “perm” is often viewed with derision by young and style conscious apprentices.

It’s often thought of as old-fashioned and not relevant to recent or trending styles. But every year, “The perm is back” is a mantra in all journals and blogs. From Poodle chic to the recent resurgence in 1970’s style home perming kits, clients are seeing variations of the perm and asking for it in consultations.

Styles change but skills last forever, so perming continues to be an important part of the New Zealand Certificate in Hairdressing (Professional Stylist). Apprentices still learn how to perm and have to incorporate the skills in their final assessments.

Not everyone finds perming easy and exciting, so we asked Mane Salon for their tips and tricks on creating and using a perm in the salon.

get a permMane Salon’s Yavanna Johnson shares her perming tips and tricks

13

Step 1

Before you begin determine the degree of curl wanted then select the right rods and solution. Section the client’s hair before you begin.

Step 2

Start winding the hair around the perm rods. Use perm papers to secure the ends as you wind. The size and placement of the rods will determine the final look of your perm.

Step 3

While you are winding, use a tail comb to control the ends and prevent fish hooks in the hair. This ensures an even result.

Step 4

Once you’ve finished winding. Protect your client’s head by applying barrier cream around the hairline and firmly secure a towel around their shoulders. Apply the perm solution following manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8

Bring your client back to the chair.

Step 9

Recommend home hair care and discuss how your client can maintain their look at home.

Step 5

Take your client to the basin to neutralise according to instructions. Apply more neutraliser to the mid-lengths and ends as you unwind the rods.

Step 6

Thoroughly rinse the perm rods. Use a towel to blot away the water.

Step 7

Once you’ve finished towel drying each rod, use a paper towel to dab at the hair and double check for leftover barrier cream.

CREATE A STANDARD PERM

H A I R D R E S S I N G14

SPICE UP YOUR PERMYou can change up the look of your perm by using:

H A I R D R E S S I N G

Plaits

Braiding the hair will give you a loose, tousled effect. For a smoother crown area, restrict your plaits to the base of the neck.

Sponge Squares

Using sponge squares (instead of perming rods) will give you a modern beach wave. You can buy sponges at any craft shop. All you need to do is wind the hair and secure it with a perming pin.

Wave Clips

Brands like Kevin Murphy produce wave clips. You can attach these to the mid-lengths and ends to create a softer wave.

Velcro Rollers

At Mane these are our most popular perming tool. Choose different roller sizes and placements to add curl to mid-lengths and ends or volume and bounce to lobs and bobs.

Is there a skill that you struggle with that we haven’t covered before? Email us at info@hito.org.nz and tell us what you’d like us to cover in the next issue of Forma.

“ . . . Ever y ye ar, “ The perm i s back ” i s a mant ra in a l l j ourna l s and b logs . ”

15

Brows are undoubtedly the #1 beauty trend of the decade. Nichola and ON Brow House bring you a tutorial for getting it right.

Until a couple of decades ago, not much thought was given to eyebrows. A quick ‘tidy’ was sufficient.

Today, there’s been a boom in specialist services, brow bars, brow experts and brow whisperers. Hundreds of brow-specific products are on the market. Being a brow artist, or, at least a therapist with brow artistry skills is a legitimate

career, not just a service. We live in a society that is obsessed with having the best and being their best self - the more specialist, the better.

Our role as therapists and brow artists is to enhance natural beauty, not force it or fake it. We should restore brows, not transform them. Nature has it right. Why mess with it?

In saying that, subtle tweaks and changes and encouraging growth in certain areas can take years off a client’s appearance and balance their features.

The power of the browBrows are big business

B E A U T Y

BROWS: DOS AND DON’TS

1. Don’t make the brows

too thin

2. No cookie cutter brows!

Each client needs a

different shape.

3. Conduct a thorough

consultation. Find out

the client’s expectations

and set realistic goals.

4. Have a vision. Work

with a long-term plan –

it will be worth it.

5. Make use of brow

products and upselling.

6. Have good hygiene.

Sanitise/sterilise your

equipment and use

a clean spatula for

each wax application.

Folliculitis is an all too

common occurrence.

7. Use good quality tools

and make sure you

replace your tweezers

regularly.

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B E A U T Y

Step 3

Using a ruler or spatula, do the three main measurements – even after years of doing brows, we still like to draw vertical lines on our client’s forehead to indicate each measurement. A great brow is all about balance.

BROWS: FROM GOOD TO GREAT Note: in the service pictured, waxing and trimming were not necessary.

Step 1

The first and most important step of any treatment is consultation and a comprehensive consent form. Remember to ask your client about medication and active skin care, previous reactions to wax, tint and cosmetics. Assess whether tweeze-only would be a better option.

Step 2

Wash and sanitise your hands before touching a client’s skin.

Step 4

Wax (unless contra-indicated) the larger areas of hair that fall outside of the desired shape. Wax is never used to shape a brow, merely to clean up larger areas of unnecessary hairs. Spatulas are never to be double dipped into a wax pot. Neither hot wax nor strip wax are hot enough to kill bacteria and fungi.

Step 5

Tweezers are used to accurately shape the brow. Clean tweezers with isopropyl alcohol before and after every client and ideally store in a UV cabinet in between. Tweeze one hair at a time to avoid mistakes and always tweeze in the direction of hair growth.

Step 6

Trimming is optional, but can be the difference between a good and great brow. Brush hairs upwards and trim long hairs one at a time. Brush back down after each hair that you’ve trimmed to avoid over-trimming and creating gaps in the brow. In some cases, long brow hairs are responsible for coverage within the brow. If you over-trim, you’ll lose density and create gaps.

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B E A U T Y

ON A FINAL NOTE: As a brow artist, it’s important to remember that the learning never stops. Every brow is a new challenge, a new opportunity to create something that could change someone’s entire appearance. The secret to being a good brow artist is patience. There often is no instant gratification in our job. Brow rehabilitation can take anything from 6 to 12 months. It’s important that you take your client on this journey and deliver excellent service rather than just a ‘quick tidy’.

Final Step/s

Complete the look by applying brow powder or pencil as needed. This is the perfect opportunity to give your client a tutorial in dressing her brows. The key is to fill only the areas that are sparse/lacking and use a spoolie brush to comb through and blend the colour.

Step 8

The final step is dressing the brow. This is a step that is often overlooked. Apply a calming lotion and using a sanitised concealer brush, apply concealer/mineral powder to camouflage redness.

Step 7

Show your client the completed shape in the mirror. Explain the work you’ve done and what the next steps are. There may be areas that need further growth – explain this to your client. Sometimes perceived ‘stray’ hairs are there for a reason i.e. they mark an area where more hair growth is needed. Once further hairs grow around that spot, the brow shape will be greatly improved.

Finish with brow gel if hold and texture are required.

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In Forma 20 we featured a tutorial on nail shaping. This issue, we learn the next steps.

Once you’ve shaped, trimmed and cleansed your client’s nails, it’s time to apply the colour.

When your client arrives, the first thing to do is perform a consultation where you’ll decide what colours or nail art your client wants.

MANICURE – THE CONCLUSIONRosa from Dezire Salon takes us through the final steps to complete a manicure

N A I L S 19

N A I L S

Step 2

If you are using a base coat, apply this now. Unless your

product company specifies that you don’t need one, using

a base coat will extend the life of the manicure, give the nail

polish an even surface to adhere too and prevent darker

colours from staining your client’s nails. The product used

in this tutorial didn’t require a base coat.

• Pull the brush from the bottle and wipe both sides on

the neck of the bottle. Wiping the brush removes excess

product and flattens the brush hairs, making it easy to use.

• Draw a thin line of the base coat along the extension edge

of the nail.

• Dip the brush back in the bottle. Fully coat the brush.

Draw the brush out of the bottle. Wipe one side on the neck

of the bottle and scoop up a tiny amount of product with

the other side.

• Starting in the centre of the nail, draw the brush down to the

extension edge and then back up to the cuticle. Draw it back

down to the extension edge.

• Tilt the nail to the right. Pull back the lateral fold so the nail

is visible. Use the right-hand side of the brush to apply the

base coat to the edge of the nail.

• Repeat on the left side.

Step 3

The next step is to apply the first layer of colour. Repeat the steps above using the colour your client select during their consultation.

Step 4

Apply another coat of the colour, using the same method. Applying the second layer helps the colour last longer and produces a more vibrant colour.

Step 1

If necessary, shake the bottle to make sure the colour is properly blended.

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Step 5

Apply a top coat to seal the colour. Top coats protect the nail polish layer and make the manicure last (and look good) for longer.

Step 6

Clean any excess nail polish from around and under the edge of the nail. Make sure to remove any excess product before it has dried – it’s much easier to remove that way.

Step 7

Condition the nails and surrounding tissue once the nail polish is dry.

Step 8

Rebook your client on the way out. A regular manicure can last around seven days, so if they want to constantly keep their nails looking good, they will need to visit you regularly. If you’ve used gel or shellac, for example, remind your client to come back in to have the polish removed – otherwise, they risk ruining their nails.

Already working in nail technology and want to learn more and get qualified?

HITO offers an on-job training programme and a Beauty Therapy Apprenticeship which includes the Nail Technology qualification. Contact us on (04) 499 1180 or email info@hito.org.nz for more information.

Rosa used CND products during the manicure.

N A I L S 21

Education

Education is the key role of trainers and tutors. A fantastic teacher makes learning fun and engaging. Trainees who are prone to misbehaviour need an engaging trainer and tutor. Think about how you can balance the learning environment to engage your trainees. You may need different resources for each trainee, or you may have to schedule training at different times.

Inspiration

Have you ever had a trainer who inspired you to work harder or achieve a particular goal? Trainees who are inspired can accomplish amazing things, and that motivation almost always stays with them. Inspiration can be delivered in many forms years after qualifying. Many working professionals will still cite a particular tutor or trainer as their inspiration.

Guidance

Tutors and trainers can be a trusted source of advice for trainees. They can guide trainees towards further education, different career opportunities, competitions and more. Trainers and tutors have knowledge and experience, making them well-positioned to offer guidance

HERE ARE A FEW WAYS TRAINERS AND TUTORS CAN HELP:

B U S I N E S S

Growing our industry

Lyndsay Loveridge, hairdressing guru, shares her expertise

Family, friends, mentors, partners and peers all play a significant role in helping young people grow. However, some of the most influential and life-changing role models can be trainers and tutors.

In an ideal world, trainees would have all the role models they need. Sadly, this is rarely the case. The hurdles of life can seem insurmountable without proper coping mechanisms.

As a result, trainees can opt out of training and out of life. While they can’t fulfil every role, trainers and tutors can provide invaluable support and change their trainees’ lives.

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The more tutors and trainers give their trainees, the more they will get out of them. Work with the trainee and other important parties such as parents, partners, friends, their employer and their HITO Sales and Liaison Manager. When everyone works towards a goal together, success is assured.

TIPS:

Not sure if your trainee is struggling? Watch for these signs:

• change in attitude

• absenteeism

• changes in their physical or mental

health.

If you see any of these signs, it’s time to look into getting extra support for your trainee.

Supporting trainees at a provider

For tutors and providers, the goals are:

• qualification completion

• long-term employment in the industry.

So what do successful tutors do to help trainees achieve these goals?

• They get trainees engaged. Tutors

create and maintain relationships

with their trainees to keep them

coming back. Tutors help trainees

stay engaged by setting goals and

focussing on outcomes.

• Review how they manage trainees

who don’t engage. Tutors must treat

trainees as adults, discussing why a

trainee isn’t meeting the standard,

why, and how they can get back on

track by setting goals and rewards for

achieving them.

• Focus on success. This is a win for the

trainee and the tutor.

Supporting trainees in the salon

Whether they’re straight from high

school or from a full-time provider,

new trainees inevitably move from a

structured environment to the more

variable environment of a workplace.

When a high school student moves into

an apprenticeship, the salon is often

prepared for them to be inexperienced.

Trainees from full-time courses don’t

always get this leeway. They can feel like

they’ve been thrown in the deep-end

and quickly lose confidence. It can be

easy for them to give up if they don’t

get some support.

For workplace trainers, your main objectives are to ensure:

• trainees fit into the salon

• trainees finish their qualification.

So what can trainers (and employers) do to help their trainees achieve these goals?

• If a trainee has come from a full-time

course, start by assessing where

the trainee is at. Employers should

consider this a standard cost when

taking on trainees from a full-time

course. Once they know where a

trainee is at, they can create a plan

to help them finish their qualification.

• Let a new trainee experience a full

salon service. Take them through

every aspect, from greeting the client

at the door to seeing them off at the

end. Once a trainee has experienced

the service, they will truly understand

the importance of each aspect of the

service you offer.

• Appoint a salon buddy. Give a trainee

a buddy who can show them around

and help them adjust to salon life.

Make sure to appoint someone who

has followed a similar journey to your

new trainee.

The challenge:

There are some fabulous nurturers who go above and beyond to support new trainees. These employers take the health, welfare and training of employees seriously. We need to make sure every employer follows these extraordinary examples.

B U S I N E S S 23

B U S I N E S S

What makes a potential client decide to come to your salon or clinic as opposed to your competition down the road? What makes you stand out from the crowd? What’s your USP? (Unique Selling Proposition)? What makes your business different?

If you don’t know the answers to these questions, it’s time to find out. Try this at your next staff meeting:

Ask your team “What three things do we do here that are different and unique to us? What do we do that other salons in our area don’t do?”

If you or your staff can’t think of any, it’s time for the next question:

“What three things could we do to make us different and unique among the salons in our area?”

Brainstorm for 10-15 minutes. Remember the rules of brainstorming: no idea is a silly idea. Write everything down.

Once you’ve finished brainstorming, pick 2-3 of the best ideas. Look at each idea in detail and figure out how you can expand on it or improve it.

This is a simple but powerful USP. How many times have you heard your client say the scalp massage was the best part of their visit and they wished it was longer? And how many times do you rush through this part of the service because you’re running late?

Remember, a relaxed happy client is a spending client. Spending that extra time earlier in the service means your client spends more later, which should mean more retail sales for you (provided you’ve done a good job of recommending products for at home use).

Whatever you come up with in your brainstorm, take all of the best ideas and use them. Promote your USPs everywhere and let every potential client know why they should come to you and not your competition down the road.

Example

IDEA: At our hair salon, we give every client a chair massage at the basin with our massage chairs.

EXPAND: We guarantee a minimum three minutes scalp massage or your service is free. As a bonus, clients also receive a body massage using our state-of-the-art massage chairs while at the basin. We’ll use a salon timer to time the massage and have the client hold the timer so they can check the time themselves.

WHAT MAKES YOUR BUSINESS DIFFERENT?

By Malcolm Gibbons

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RESTRAINT OF TRADEBy David Patten LlB: BA; MBS: FAMINZ

Welcome to 2016. I trust that you have all had a relaxing holiday (I know, when was that?) and your salon is building up for a busy year.

2016 promises to be a busy year in the employment field.

The Health and Safety at Work Act 2015 (formerly the Health and Safety in Employment Act) is due to come into force on 1 April 2016. I will be writing a separate article on this crucial piece of legislation in a future edition of Forma. The Employment Standards Legislation Bill proposes to amend New Zealand’s employment law to ensure it responds to the ‘modern, dynamic business environment and encourages fair and productive workplaces’. The proposed changes under the legislation will:

• Extend paid parental leave to more workers and increase the flexibility of the scheme.

• Strengthen enforcement of employment standards.

• Address issues such as ‘zero-hour contracts’ and other unfair employment practices.

Again, I intend to write more comprehensively about this legislation in a future article.

In the meantime, I want to talk about the vexed topic of restraint of trade provisions found in many employment agreements, including the ‘template’ agreement for hair and beauty salons available through the offices of NZARH (if you are a member). There appears to be a view within the profession that such clauses are unenforceable and are "not worth the paper they are written on"!

I don’t share this view. The Courts will enforce a restraint of trade clause in an agreement if it is considered reasonable and there is evidence that the offending party has breached the clause. The first matter that the Court (in the case of employment matters, the Employment Relations Authority) will look at is the reasonableness of the clause. The Employment Relations Authority looks at each case on its own merits. For example, a clause restraining an employee working for a competing salon for 12 months and within a radius from their (former) employer’s salon of ten kilometres, would probably be considered unreasonable. However a clause with a restraining period of three months and a radius of one kilometre may be considered reasonable (having regard to geographical considerations e.g. a one kilometre radius in a small town is quite different from the same distance in a city).

Another matter the Court will look at is the damage done or potentially done, in financial terms, to the salon that employed the former staff member. The reality of the hairdressing profession is that staff will move around, and salon clients will often ‘follow’ a stylist to the new salon. It surprises me how often salon owners, complaining about former employees now working at competing salons contrary to the restraint provisions, have taken no steps to protect their businesses. Such steps might include contacting those ‘at risk’ clients and offering to continue to provide services to them, perhaps with an incentive attached e.g. a one-off discount for the next service provided.

Another common issue is the salon owner worrying that the former staff member took client information from the computer when they left (and then contacting those clients directly). This can happen, usually when the stylist mistakenly thinks that clients belong to them and not the salon. Because the issue is one of theft of salon property, the Courts will want to see an evidence trail. In other words, a mere suspicion of wrong-doing by the former employee will not be enough. Evidence from salon clients who have been contacted by the former employee can be very helpful to the Court in these circumstances.

When an employee resigns, it is important to remind the employee of the restraint provisions in their agreement. I recommend that you remind your employee in writing. That way, the letter could be used as evidence if the salon owner seeks enforcement of the restraint provisions. The salon owner should also consider whether they require the employee to work out their notice period or be paid in lieu.

Consider: is the employee is going to work at another salon or not, how long has the employee worked for you, and how did they respond when reminded of the restraint of trade provisions in their contract.

Remember: check your agreements to see whether your restraint provisions are reasonable. Also, be proactive when an employee leaves. Let their clients know the salon wants to continue to provide services to them even though their normal stylist is leaving the salon.

Until next time…

B U S I N E S S 25

H A I R D R E S S I N G

If you’re a hairdresser (or even if you’re not), chances are you’ve heard of Richard Kavanagh. We asked Richard to tell us what makes a successful hairdresser and why a career in hairdressing is so rewarding.

Richard Kavanagh originally planned on being a scientist.

“I choose a career in hairdressing as a teenager, after the science of colour was explained to me. A hairdresser explained the specific, methodical, almost architectural approach to cutting hair required to sculpt a geometric shape from millions of flexible fibres sprouting on an

irregularly shaped, asymmetric organic form (the head). I knew then with every atom of my being that I was going to do hair.”

That was the start of a long and exciting hairdressing career. Richard’s won several awards, worked on shoots for Vogue, Prada, Versace, Alexander Wang, and Yves Saint Laurent all over the world, shot global hair campaigns for massive brands and spoken on stage to 10,000 people.

If Richard could pick one highlight, however, it would be a moment in a suburban salon in the early 90s.

richard kavanaghOne of hairdressing’s most famous faces shares his hairdressing expertise

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“I saw first-hand the transformational effect good hair can have on a person. It made me realise what a privilege it is to touch people’s heads every day and to be responsible for their personal image and sense of themselves. We have the honour of creating good hair days for people, which is a true career highlight.”

Richard recently worked with HITO as a judge and mentor for the New Zealand Fashion Week HITO Hot New Talent Competition. Richard has always been a strong advocate for apprenticeship training, so he welcomed the chance to promote apprenticeships and mentor a young person through the competition.

Richard mentored Hannah Oxley, winner of the hairdressing category of the Hot New Talent Competition.

“The best part of working with Hannah was her enthusiasm and commitment. She was always willing to learn, listen and absorb as much as she could. And her boots and all attitude helped when it came to shoot day and working on shows. She mucked in and did what needed to be done all in the name of learning and gaining experience.”

“The competition provided an opportunity for the people involved to see another side to the career they had chosen

and gave them insight into just how far you can go when you have your trade training behind you.”

“Having trade training and a qualification behind you will help you go far. A qualification shows you’ve learned all the fundamental skills and haven’t skipped any essential steps. It proves you have the skills to work in any salon. Sticking out an apprenticeship proves to an employer that you’ve got staying power. As well as the fundamental skills, completing a qualification gives you a good work ethic, and teaches you patience, discipline and people skills. All these skills serve you no matter the career you pursue in hairdressing.”

For Richard, the best thing about a career in hair is getting something new out of every day. He works with different teams in different environments and always improves his craft “strand by strand, head by head, and shoot by shoot”.

“The sky is the limit in this career. You can do anything as long as you put in the time and energy. Focus on getting ridiculously good at every fundamental aspect of your craft. Get better than everyone you’ve ever seen and then keeping working.”

Richard adds, “Get used to drinking cold coffee, eating half-stale sandwiches, and never taking a toilet break.”

Thinking about becoming the next Richard Kavanagh? It all starts with an apprenticeship. Contact HITO on (04) 499 1180 or info@hito.org.nz.

H A I R D R E S S I N G 27

We weren’t able to catch up with Carrie, our Tutor of the Year runner-up, in time for the last issue, so we got in touch to chat about what it meant to be a finalist and her advice for 2016 Industry Awards entrants.

“I was absolutely ecstatic when I found out I was a finalist,” Carrie says. “To be acknowledged for my passion and dedication to training is truly humbling.”

Carrie entered the award to show her trainees at UCOL that everyone can dream big and achieve those dreams. She also valued the opportunity to sit back and reflect on her tutoring.

“I’m a big believer in self-reflection,” Carrie says. “This award allows you to sit back and figure out how you can really excel”.

If you’re thinking about entering the Industry Awards this year, Carrie has some advice:

“Be proud of what you do – you have an amazing talent,” Carrie says. “Stay true to yourself – you are a role model and mentor to many people. And dream big!”

INDUSTRY AWARDS

You may have noticed an error in the Industry Awards article. Our awesome HITO Trainer of the Year finalist Kaye Greenshields actually works at Blow Hair Co. Congratulations to Kaye and to Blow!

Selecting a social media platform that works for you begins with having your clients in mind.

Recent reports have shown that Instagram is delivering stylists with more engagement than Facebook and Twitter. Instagram is a client magnet too big to ignore. If you feel a little baffled by it all, the following tips will help you find your feet.

1. Make it picture perfect

Instagram is an image-based platform, so your images must be excellent quality. Consider angle, background,

lighting, and zoom.

2. Would you follow you?

Most people will follow you based on your profile page, rather than a single post. Take a look at your

profile now and ask yourself: would I follow this account? Does your feed communicate who you are and look cohesive? Cohesive means making sure that your profile picture, bio, and images are all telling the same story.

3. Start with your ‘why?’

Why would someone choose to follow your page? People are selfish. For someone to follow you there

has something in it for them, so be clear about what you’re offering.

Once you have picked your theme or what you want to be known for, only post within the boundaries you’ve set for yourself. If your followers love you for the amazing hair you create, sharing your dinner or dog’s antics adds no value and detracts from your personal brand.

4. Consistency, please

It’s important to be consistent, so your followers know what to expect and when to it expect it. If you can’t

post daily, then choose the days you can and conquer that first before committing to more.

5. Use #hashtags, stay #blessed

Using hashtags increases your reach. They act as a channel for content around one specific topic. Make sure

to use hashtags that are relevant to the audience you’re trying to attract. Think: what would my audience search for?

6. Get it on your schedule

The bad news is that there isn’t any scheduling software for Instagram, but you can always take photos

and write descriptions in advance. Then all you have to do it post them. Set a reminder in your calendar.

7. Make it rain! Convert followers to clients

Your Instagram bio is where you need to put a link to reach you. When the time comes for a follower

to decide to take the plunge and touch base with you, it needs to be easy for them to do so. Send people to your salon’s website contact page or online booking links.

Convert online to In-salon

By Larissa Macleman of Get Timely

B U S I N E S S

With these tips, your Instagram will be up and running in no time. You’ll be surprised by the success it brings.

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NAME: Tim EllisWORKPLACE: New City BarbersMODEL: JamesPHOTOGRAPHER: Sabin Holloway