between farm & tablecreating a sustainable food system

The average grocerystore’s produce travels

between farm and table.11500 miles

Switching to just

of our diet from longdistance to locally grownreduces our carbon footprint by more than all recyclables combined.

25 percent

—Leda Meredith, Locavore

introduction

chapter 1

chapter 2

chapter 3

chapter 4

chapter 5

chapter 6

conclusion

introduction current state

chapter 1 basic initiatives

chapter 2 education

chapter 3 food waste

chapter 4 sense of community

chapter 5

end notes

our food system

chapter 6

bibliography

local & state

conclusion peas in a pod

1

8

18

24

34

42

52

60

table of contents

introduction current state

The United States food system has changed substantially over the last fifty years due to a variety of circumstances including the globalization and centralization of the food industry as well as the concentration of the food supply onto fewer, larger suppliers.

In his essay “Food Democracy,” Brian Halweil states that half of

the food items in a typical supermarket are produced by no more

than 10 multinational food and beverage companies. The majority of

food consumed today passes through a complex, indirect network

of a few large, centralized producers, processors, transporters and

distributors before reaching the consumer.

An additional change in the food system is the ever increasing

trend of these multinational firms sourcing food from outside

national boundaries in order to provide consistent products at very

low prices.

The development of global food transport systems has resulted in

higher consumer expectations. Consumers now have the ability to

choose from a wide variety of food items, regardless of the season

or their location, all at a low price. The ability to enjoy consistent

produce and exotic ingredients at all times of the year is a luxury

that has its price. The farther food travels, the more freshness

declines and the more nutrients are lost. Many fruits and veg-

etables are engineered for a long shelf life, sacrificing taste and

nutrition for its long-term preservation.

As large multinational companies gain control over the food indus-

try, small local farmers suffer. Since 1979, 300,000 farmers have

gone out of business and those remaining are receiving 13 percent

less for every consumer dollar for farm goods. 2

Changes in the food system have resulted in a broad range of

social, economic and environmental implications. There are those

that strive for change ("locavores") and do what they can to live

more sustainably, there are those that simply do not care, and

there are those that simply do not have a choice due to geographi-

cal and/or financial restrictions.

2 3 between farm & table: current state

A Locavore is someone who exclusively eats foods from

their local or regional food shed or a determined radius

from their home (commonly either 100 or 250 miles,

depending on location). By eating locally, most locavores

hope to create a greater connection between them-

selves and their food sources, resist industrialized and

processed foods, and support their local economy. The

majority of locavores do not give themselves a strict

radius from which to eat, but instead buy as much of

their food as they can from farmers, growers, and sellers

with whom they have a relationship or whose producing

practices they want to support.

Many locavores give themselves several exceptions to

their local diet. Commonly excluded items include coffee,

chocolate, salt, and/or spices—although locavores tend

to try and find local coffee roasters, chocolate producers,

and spice importers when they can.4 To the right are tips

on how to lead a more locavorous lifestyle.

Local food or the local food movement is a “collaborative

effort to build more locally based and self-reliant food

economies—one in which sustainable food production,

processing, distribution, and consumption is integrated to

enhance the economic, environmental and social health

of a particular place” and is considered to be a part of the

broader sustainability movement. It is part of the concept

of local purchasing and local economies, a preference to

buy locally produced goods and services. Those who

prefer to eat locally grown/produced food sometimes

call themselves locavores or localvores.3 Locavores are

given the stereotype of being “rich, white folk” due to

the misconception of local produce costing more money

than the average grocery store produce, an issue that is

addressed later on in this book.

Locavores

Local Food Phenomenon

Go OutMany restaurants now emphasize local foods in their dishes. Ask around, you might be surprised how many options you find that serve up local flavor.

Feed The FreezerCan’t cook every night? Worried about your fresh produce going bad? It’s easy. Make lasagna with local tomatoes or a soup packed with fresh veggies and freeze it! You can also make personal size meals for a brown bag lunch.

Branch OutMaybe your usual food repertoire could use some fresh ideas. The farm-ers’ market provides a perfect chance to try a new ingredient when it’s in season, and lets you talk to its grower to find out the best way to prepare your new food. Flirt with your food producer! Get some new recipes.5

4 5 between farm & table: current state

At the other end of the spectrum, there exists what are

called ‘food deserts.’ A food desert is a district with little

or no access to foods needed to maintain a healthy diet

but often served by plenty of fast food restaurants. These

are areas where fresh, healthy food is not accessible.

The concept of ‘access’ may be interpreted in one of

three ways.

PHYSICAL ACCESS to shops can be difficult if the shops

are distant, the shopper is elderly or infirm, the area has

many hills, public transport links are poor, and the con-

sumer has no car. Also, the shop may be across a busy

road, difficult to cross with children or with underpasses

that some fear to use because of a crime risk. For some,

such as disabled people, the inside of the shop may be

hard to access physically if there are steps up or the inte-

rior is cramped with no room for walking aids. Carrying

fresh food home may also be hard for some.

FINANCIAL ACCESS is difficult if the consumer lacks the

money to buy healthful foods (generally more expensive,

calorie for calorie, than less healthful, sugary, and fatty

‘junk foods’) or if the shopper cannot afford the bus fare

to remote shops selling fresh foods and instead uses

local fast food outlets. Other forms of financial access

barriers may be the inability to afford storage space for

food, or for low-income families, living in temporary hous-

ing that does not offer good cooking facilities.

MENTAL ATTITUDE or food knowledge of the consumer

may prevent them from accessing fresh vegetables. They

may lack cooking knowledge or have the idea that eating

a healthful diet isn’t important. In some urban areas,

grocery stores have withdrawn alongside residents that

have fled to the suburbs. Low income earners and senior

citizens who remain find healthy foods either unavailable

or inaccessible as a result of high prices and/or unreach-

able locations.6

Food Deserts

6 7 between farm & table: current state

As result of the current food system and the presence

of food deserts, America’s overall health has suffered

greatly. The number of overweight people in the USA had

increased by 60 percent in the last twenty years. Also,

the number of obese children had tripled in the last thirty

years. But just what is obesity? Well, when a man’s body

fat is over 25 percent he is obese and when a woman’s

body fat reaches over 30 percent she is obese. The fact is

that America is the fattest country in the world because

the percentage of overweight people in the USA has

steadily increased since the 1960’s.

The surveys from the CDC are showing that only 33

percent of adults eat the recommended amount of fruit

while only 27 percent eat the recommended amount of

vegetables. But wait, the statistics get worse for high

school students, only 32 percent eat the recommended

amount of fruit and a measly 13 percent meet the goal

for vegetables.

Low-income Americans now would have to spend up to

70 percent of their food budget on fruits and vegetables

to meet new national dietary guidelines for healthy eating

and a second study found that in rural areas, convenience

stores far outnumber supermarkets and grocery stores

even though the latter carry a much wider choice of

affordable, healthy foods.7

As a country, we are only failing ourselves by filling our

bodies with all of this overly processed junk food that

lacks any nutritional value. Our government is also failing

us but not providing us with the right resources so that

everyone can have to option to eat fresh, nutritional food.

Fresh food is a right, not a privilege.

Health and Income

...a second study

found that in rural

areas, convenience

stores far outnumber

supermarkets and

grocery stores even

though the latter

carry a much wider

choice of affordable,

healthy foods.

So what?All of these varying factors are issues that exist

within today’s society. From the ‘haves’ to the

‘have-not’s we are a country with a very big food

problem. This is not an ‘elitists’ problem to solve,

nor is it correct to believe that just because people

are unable to afford fresh, local produce, that they

don’t care. In fact, they do. There are so many

factors that people are faced with today, especially

those living off of low-income salaries that are

forced to penny-pinch every food-related decision.

Who would have ever thought that in the land of

plenty, we would one day have to be concerned

about where our food is actually coming from.

Similarly to everything else we do as humans, we

have taken things too far. The Industrial Revolution

is a definite thing of the past, and while it brought

great change and endless possibilities, it’s repercus-

sions are overwhelming. For some reason we must

always strive for bigger and better, which is what

we have done to our food system. We are now in

way over our heads and it is now up to us to figure

out what to do about it.

The subject of this book is not to just talk about

the joys of spending a Saturday afternoon at the

farmers' market or preaching the 100-mile diet. The

purpose of this book is to take a step back and see

the big picture. How can the ‘eat local’ phenomenon

touch all social classes and communities within our

country? What can we do as a unit to make changes

that will in fact make a difference, a big difference

that will be noticed by generations to come. It’s

time to get our hands dirty, to educate ourselves on

what it means to be self-sufficient and to realize the

true meaning of a green thumb.

Living in a deep recession with environmental problems that threaten our continued comfort on this planet, “voting with our dollars” is simply not enough. In order to truly transform our food system from a water and gas-guzzling industrial monoculture into a more sustainable and humane polyculture, it is necessary to leverage the full range and force of private and public activity.

We are currently witnessing a tipping point. Our economy, our health

and our environment cannot sustain continued topsoil loss, diminishing

fresh water reserves, antibiotic resistant superbugs, toxic runoff (from

the use of pesticides and fertilizers) into our waterways, rain-forests

being destroyed to make way for food production, and the massive

amounts of fossil fuels being used in large-scale farming. In fact, with

an estimated 50 short years of oil left, and demand only growing, we

must change our ways now.8

So what does that mean? What can we do?

chapter 1 basic initiatives

10 11 between farm & table: basic initiatives

Food grown close to home requires less fuel and other

resources to get to your grocery store. Eating local is

also a good way to support your local economy because

you buy products produced by farmers who live in your

area. COMMUNITY SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE (CSA)

is a great way to make supporting nearby growers easier

through home delivery options.9

Over the last 20 years, Community Supported Agriculture

has become a popular way for consumers to buy local,

seasonal food directly from a farmer. Here are the basics:

a farmer offers a certain number of “shares” to the

public. Typically the share consists of a box of vegetables.

Interested consumers purchase a share, which is con-

sidered a “membership” or a “subscription,” and in return

receive a box of seasonal produce each week throughout

the farming season. It’s a simple enough idea, but its

impact has been profound. Tens of thousands of families

have joined CSAs, and in some areas of the country there

is more demand than there are CSA farms to fill it. To find

your nearest CSA, go to LOCALHARVEST.COM which

has the most comprehensive directory of CSA farms,

with over 2,500 listed in their grassroots database.10

Communal Support

CSA Advantages

Advantages For FarmerFarmers get to spend time marketing the food early in the year, before their 16-hour days in the field begin.

Farmers receive payment early in the season, which helps with the farm’s overall cash flow.

Farmers have the opportunity to get to know their consumers first-hand.

Consumers get to eat ultra-fresh food, with all the flavor and vitamin benefits.

Consumers are exposed to new vegetables and new ways of cooking.

Visitation access to the farm at least once a season is granted.

Consumers are able to develop a relationship with the farmer who grows their food and learn more about how the food is treated.

Advantages For Consumer

American Farmers onaverage receive only

20 centsof each dollar spent on produce by customers.The rest is spent onprocessing, packaging,and transportation.

—John Ikerd, Eating Local: A Matter of Integrity

between farm & table: basic initiatives

Farmers’ markets are one of the oldest forms of direct

marketing by small farmers. From the traditional “mer-

cados” in the Peruvian Andes to the street markets in

Asia, growers all over the world gather weekly to sell

their produce directly to the public. In the last decade

they have become a favorite marketing method for

farmers throughout the United States, and a weekly

ritual for many local shoppers.

In a farmers’ market, a group of farmers sell their prod-

ucts once or twice a week at a designated public place

like a parking lot or large warehouse. Farmers’ markets

often feature produce grown NATURALLY or ORGANI-

CALLY, meats that are raised humanely on pasture,

handmade farmstead cheeses, eggs and poultry from

free-range fowl, as well as heirloom produce and heri-

tage breeds of meat and fowl. In many countries with

strict food safety laws, farmers’ markets can be one of

the few places beyond the farm gate to purchase raw

food, such as raw milk. Some farmers’ markets even

provide live entertainment. Shopping at a local farmers’

market is a great way to meet local farmers and get

fresh, flavorful produce at its seasonal peak.11

Farmers’ Markets

Shopping at a

farmers’ market is

a great way to meet

local farmers and

get fresh, f lavorful

produce at its

seasonal peak

14 15

Urban agriculture is the practice of cultivating, process-

ing and distributing food in, or around a village, town

or city. Urban agriculture in addition can also involve

animal husbandry, aquaculture and horticulture. These

activities also occur in peri-urban areas as well.

Urban agriculture contributes to food security and food

safety in two ways: first, it increases the amount of

food available to people living in cities, and, second, it

allows fresh vegetables and fruits and meat products to

be made available to urban consumers. A common and

efficient form of urban agriculture is the biointensive

method. Because urban agriculture promotes energy-

saving local food production, urban and peri-urban

agriculture are generally seen as sustainable practices.12

The mission of urban farming and agriculture is to cre-

ate an abundance of food for people in need by planting

gardens on unused land and space while increasing

diversity, educating youth, adults and seniors and pro-

viding an environmentally sustainable system to uplift

communities. Urban farms are a great way for commu-

nities to join together and learn how to grow their own

food, which is a great option for lower-income families.

Urban farms are popping up all over the place. To find

an urban farm near you, simply go to urbanfarmonline.

com. Below are several existing urban farms worth

taking a look at.

Urban Agriculture

CITY SLICKER FARMS www.littlecitygardens.com

GROWING POWER www.growingpower.org

LITTLE CITY GARDENS www.littlecitygardens.com

between farm & table: basic initiatives16 17

crustless pumpkin pie

15 oz. pure pumpkin

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

1 cup heavy cream

1 tbsp brandy

3/4 cup lightly packed light brown sugar

1 tsp fresh ginger, grated

1 tsp freshly ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp table salt

1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper

pinch of freshly ground cloves

cream:

1 cup heavy cream

2 tbsps packed light brown sugar

1 tsp ground ginger (freshly grated is good)

1 tsp brandy

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Urgent change is desperately needed within agricultural education. Some change is already happening, but there is need for action in par-ticular directions. The change needed today is a re-focusing on the curriculum and student experience so the farmers of tomorrow will have the skills as well as the expertise to meet the needs of a changing and sustainable world.

Students of the 21st century differ from those of the last century in

many ways, including a demographic change: fewer come from farm

or rural backgrounds. Today, well under 5 percent of the U.S. population

live on farms and barely 20 percent come from rural communities. The

increasingly urban and suburban population poses a particular chal-

lenge for agriculture in that students often lack even basic awareness

of agricultural sciences.

Public understanding of agriculture is poor, and many people are barely

aware of where their food comes from. Their lack of awareness of

agricultural products is coupled with an outdated view of agriculture.

One challenge for attracting young people to agricultural sciences is to

overcome the public perception that agriculture strictly means farming

because agriculture incorporates a wide array of approaches.13

chapter 2 education

In early America, settlers were totally dependent upon

their food source. If they produced their own food,

they knew how to grow it, where to sell it, and how

to process and preserve it so that it remained safe for

consumption. If they did not produce their own food,

they knew where to find the most reliable source, both

in quality and quantity. They knew because their lives

depended upon this knowledge.

Although most agriculturalists would argue that little

has changed in our dependency upon a reliable source

of quality food, most would also agree that the vast

majority of Americans know very little about today’s

food system. Simply put, the majority of Americans

seem to be agriculturally illiterate.

Webster defines literacy as being knowledgeable in

a particular subject or field, in this case, agriculture.

Webster defines education as the process of develop-

ing that knowledge. If we accept those definitions,

what we do in agricultural education at the middle and

secondary levels is to develop students into agricultur-

ally literate citizens. If so, agricultural education equals

agricultural literacy. However, the agricultural educa-

tion profession has been slow to embrace agricultural

education as an agricultural literacy program.

Research indicates conflicting results in the level of

agricultural literacy. Rural students, despite their back-

grounds, lack understanding of agricultural concepts

concerning food products.

The REINVENTING AGRICULTURAL EDUCATION

program for the Year 2020 clearly indicates that not

only should agricultural literacy be part of every

student’s education from kindergarten through high

school, and beyond, but also that agricultural education

must serve as the torchbearer in that effort. However,

many would argue that we fall far short of accomplish-

ing that goal— at the elementary, secondary, and post-

secondary levels.14

agricultural illiteracy

Simply put,

the majority

of Americans

seem to be

agriculturally

illiterate.

20 21 between farm & table: education

between farm & table: our food system22 23

There are several potential oppor-tunities in this area, schools could first of all begin incorporating agricultural studies into student’s mandatory curriculum as well as after-school programs and clubs. Schools and community centers could also provide outside classes for adults, especially if they have access to a garden or nearby farm.

GAME PLAN One way to accomplish this is by creating toolkits

for the students, especially in the elementary years. These kits

can be used both at school and at home, where students can

share with their families, information on how to lead a more

sustainable lifestyle. Toolkits would include:

• How-To Books for Gardening and Composting

• Top Ten Ways To Be More Green

• Variety of Seed Packages and Starter “Soil”

• Lists of Local Businesses and Farmers’ Markets

Let me guess. You’re concerned about the environment. You recycle, buy the right light bulbs, drink from a re-usable water bottle, preferably one made of metal, and wish you could afford a hybrid. You always try to remember your re-usable shopping bags when you go to the market and feel guilty when you don’t. Sound about right?

One of the things that we are not doing is minimizing our food

waste. If you buy it and bring it home, eat it. That alone is one of

the easiest ways to aid the environment.

About 40 percent of the food produced in the United States isn’t

consumed. Every day Americans waste enough food to fill the Rose

Bowl. And our national food waste habit is on the upswing: We

waste 50 percent more food today than we did in 1974.

Squandering so much of what we grow doesn’t just waste food; it

also wastes the fossil fuel that went into growing, processing, trans-

porting and refrigerating it. A recent study estimated conservatively

that 2 percent of all U.S. energy consumption went to producing food

that was never eaten. To give you a sense of perspective, every year,

through uneaten food, we waste 70 times the amount of oil that

gushed into the Gulf of Mexico during the three months of the Deep-

water Horizon spill.

That waste of resources continues even after we throw away food.

There is the energy required to haul the discarded food to the landfill.

And once there, food decomposes and creates methane, a green-

house gas 23 times more potent a heat trapper than carbon dioxide.

Landfills are the second-largest human-related source of methane

emissions, and rotting food causes the majority of methane there.

It’s climate change coming directly from your kitchen.15

chapter 3 food waste

between farm & table: food waste

what gets wasted in the USA?

12.7% FOOD SCRAPS

26 27

who wastes it?

60% CONSUMERS

20% PRODUCTION

20% DISTRIBUTION

Source: Next Generation of Food (NGF)

between farm & table: food waste

It’s tough to really point the finger at anyone about this

issue since it seems like everybody is taking part in

making this a huge issue, but the commercial and retail

food industry are massive producers of food waste.

This includes restaurants, conveniences/grocery stores

and food suppliers.

Some of the main ways that food can be lost prior

to even getting to our homes include discarding of

imperfect foods, transportation and strange unwritten

rules. WHO EVER SAID THAT ALL THE EXTRA FOOD

A RESTAURANT MAKES OR NEARLY EXPIRED

FOOD AT GROCERY STORE HAS TO BE TOSSED IN

THE TRASH? This goes back to strange “rules” that

many food businesses follow that force them to throw

these items away. It's an absurd practice and with all of

the starving people that exist in this country, it simply

cannot continue in this manner.

Biggest Culprits

28 29

(serves 6) 14-day sweet pickles

3 1/2 qts pickling cucumbers (about 4 lbs)

1 c. coarse flake pickling salt

2 qts boiling water

1/2 tsp powdered alum

5 c. vinegar

3 c. sugar

1 1/2 tsp celery seeds

4 2” cinnamon sticks

1 1/2 c. sugar

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of the food produced in the United States is notconsumed. We waste 50 percent more food today than we did in 1974.

40 percent

—Jonathan Bloom, Stop Wasting Food

32 33 between farm & table: our food system

Food rescue does not involve superheroes in capes. Also called food recovery, it is the practice of retrieving edible food that would otherwise go to waste and distributing it to those in need. In most cases, the recovered food is perfectly edible, but not saleable. For example, it’s day old bread or bagged lettuce past its “sell-by” date. Often, it’s in great condition and to throw it away would be a waste.

GAME PLAN In order to get the word out to the public as

well as local businesses, a lot of promotional work needs to

be created to get our message out there such as:

• a website www.dontwastefood.com

• Food/Promo Truck for Pick-ups

• Insert in Sunday Newspapers

• Refrigerator Magnet

• Social Media Promo

A community may be defined as a group of people who share a common vision for their preferred future. Without some shared vision or sense of common purpose, there is no com-mon commitment to keep people working or living together.

Communities may be either virtual communities of interests or physi-

cal communities of place. To sustain communities of place, people

with common interests must also have a purpose for choosing to

live and work in a particular place. Otherwise, the people who share

common interests will simply move to places better suited to their

purpose, and then the sense of community is never found within

those left behind.16

chapter 4 community

between farm & table: community

Perhaps no sustainable community development initia-

tive is more important than is the development of local,

community-based food systems. For many American

communities, land is the still most important natural

resource linking people to place, and agricultural land

provides both a purpose for and possibility of sustain-

ing people in a particular place. Sustainability does not

suggest a return to natural resource based economies

or societies. However, by linking economic and socio-

cultural development to geographically fixed resources,

sustainable connections are established among people,

purpose, and place. Location-specific resources of

economic value also include topography, landscapes,

and climate, as well as land that can support community

based food systems. Sustainable, community based

food systems have the unique advantage of providing

dependable access to the nourishment necessary to

sustain the physical health of a community while at the

same time nurturing social relationships, protecting the

environment, conserving natural resources and anchor-

ing the local economy.

Sustainable communities must be built on a different

conceptual foundation than the natural resource com-

munities of the past and industrial communities of the

present. Sooner or later, we must confront the fact that

development driven solely by the economic bottom line,

quite simply, is not sustainable. This lack of sustain-

ability is a matter of science and reason, as it is derived

from the most fundamental laws of science. Sustain-

ability ultimately is a question of energy use. Everything

that is of use to humanity—our houses, clothes, food—

requires energy. And equally important, the usefulness

of human energy is a product of society. We are not

born as productive individuals but as helpless babies.

We have to be nurtured, socialized, and educated by

society before we are capable of being of economic use

to society.16

People & Place

For many American

communities, land

is still the most

important natural

resource linking

people to place.

36 37

stone soup

1 stone, big enough that it won’t get lost in the soup (quartz is a good choice because it won’t break down in cooking)

1 tbsp. butter or vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 celery stalks, trimmed and chopped fine

1 large carrot, cut into coins

3 medium red-skinned potatoes (unpeeled, and cut into halves)

1/2 sweet red pepper, chopped

1 large garlic clove, pressed

6 cups chicken broth

1 medium zucchini, diced large

1 medium yellow squash, diced large

1/2 cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen

2 cups cooked tubettini or ditalini, or other pasta

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

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—Colin Beavan ‘No Impact Man’

Without community, none of us feel to anybody else.accountable

between farm & table: our food systembetween farm & table: our food system40 41

Most people are in the dark about how to get involved in this 'local' food phenomenon. The concept of community festivals needs to take place. Unlike Farmers' Markets, the community festivals would be held once during each of the four seasons, in various neighborhoods throughout the city. It would help to advertise local farms as well as local businesses and organizations that truly need the support of the local community.

GAME PLAN The community festival is a communication

venue for local farmers/businesses to come together to get

their names out to the community. Materials needed:

• Promotional Ads (web)

• Tote Bags (re-usable)

• Information packets (listings of local businesses,

farmers and organizations

• Demonstrations (cooking, composting,

DIY gardening)

Today’s monthly visit to Costco scarcely resembles our grandmother’s daily trip to the butcher, baker or corner shop. During the second half of the last century, a so-called Green Revolution has been underway. This revolution has changed the way our food is produced, distributed and marketed, and, in most cases, not for the better.

This new ‘revolution’ has greatly increased the prevalence of chemical

pesticides and fertilizers, genetically-modified organisms, industrial

agriculture, and global food distribution which has created a pretty

dysfunctional system that cannot provide for future generations.

And then there are economic and access issues. Processed, junk food

is so cheap that healthy, farm-fresh food has become a luxury item.

Many people have been raised on basic, commoditized foods (think

broccoli, carrots, baked potatoes...) that they don’t even know how to

shop for or cook diverse fruits and vegetables. Others may want to

buy local, organic foods but don’t have geographic or financial access.

Wholesalers share this access problem where they lack the simple

tools to track availability and place orders.17

SOUNDS PRETTY DISMAL, DOESN’T IT? Well it is.

chapter 5 our food system

between farm & table: our food system

According to the CDC, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, part

of the Department of Health and Human Services, food “deserts are areas

that lack access to affordable fruits, vegetables, whole grains, low-fat milk,

and other foods that make up the full range of a healthy diet.” The USDA (United

States Department of Agriculture) has a map, or atlas, depicting food choices

and demographics of the u.s. by county.18

food deserts in the US

23.5 MILLIONAMERICANS INCLUDING

6.5 MILLION

CHILDREN

Source: Your Food Environment Atlas

44 45

CURRENTLY LIVE IN FOOD DESERTS

Facts About Food Deserts

5.7 percent of households in the U.S. do not have access to fresh, nutritional food.

Food prices are 10 percent lower at supermarkets than at smaller conve-nience stores.

Food eaten at restaurants is less afford-able due to its higher per unit cost rela-tive to foodstores.

Supermarkets are more accessible to ethnic and racial minorities than they are for whites.

Between 2.3-5.5 percent of all house-holds may be outside of a walking dis-tance to a supermarket and lack access to a vehicle.

Overall, 0.9 million households do not have access to a vehicle and live in low-income areas more than a mile from a supermarket. This represents 3.6 per-cent of all households in low-income areas.

If you design for food & food systems, youwill inevitably addressall considerations that are needed to create

workable communities.

—Carolyn Steel, Hungry City

sustainable

between farm & table: our food system

Grocery stores play a crucial role in our rural communi-

ties, providing vital sources of nutrition, jobs and tax

revenue that support the community. Moreover, rural

grocery stores are also economic drivers, community

builders and meeting places for locals.

They are, however, slowly disappearing—forcing

residents to leave their communities to purchase food,

often at great expense and over great distance. Across

rural America, 803 counties are classified as “food

deserts” where all the county residents are at least 10

miles from a full-service grocery store. The Great Plains

has the highest concentration of food desert counties,

with 418.

SO WHY DO THEY LEAVE?

Many reasons conspire to leave a community without

a grocery store. Declining populations mean that a

number of rural communities are without an adequate

customer base for a local store. A certain population

is needed to maintain a grocery store. In 2000, the

average population needed to maintain a grocery store

was 2,843. By 2005 the necessary population had

risen to 3,252. While the minimum needed population

is increasing, most rural communities and counties are

decreasing in population. Rural grocery stores, there-

fore, are fighting larger rural demographic trends.

Over time, large corporate hypermarkets, such as

Walmart and Target, have began to take notice of these

food deserts, and have recently begun to take initiative

on contributing to the depletion of them. These are

the same superstores that have been reamed in the

past for bad practices. However, this new initiative is

definitely cause for us to take a new look. If we can

get these superstores to collaborate with our small

number of existing rural grocery stores, great things

could happen.19

Rural Grocery Stores

Across rural

America, 803

counties are

classified as

Food Deserts..

48 49

Currently, Michelle Obama is campaigning to get rid of food deserts all together within a seven year time-span.

Establishing large superstore chains into these food deserts isn't enough, it is vital that these locations create a relationship with the local city producers/businesses so that the city’s community may prosper rather than just adding more dollar bills into the corporate pocket.

GAME PLAN: To develop a nationwide organization that

represents local farmers within corporate grocery stores,

supermarkets and hypermarkets. This organization will be

responsible for:

• Branding Local Produce

• Providing high-quality SEASONAL

produce with discounts

• Providing customers with recipe cards/

inspiration for best methods of prep

With all of this talk about eating locally and agriculture as whole, one of the greatest mysteries of today's food system is the U.S. Farm Bill. So many people are unaware of this policy's role and overwhelming control over the decisions that are made with regard to our current food system.

The Farm Bill defines the federal government’s role in the agricultural

market, provides different types of government subsidies (or funding)

to farmers, and has been widely criticized for benefiting mostly large

industrial farms while doing little to help small family farms.

Several government subsidies help factory farms profit by allowing

them to keep costs and, therefore, prices low. The Environmental

Quality Incentives Program (EQIP), which provides payments and

technical assistance for improving environmental quality and conser-

vation practices on agricultural lands, currently lists the reduction of

industrial farm contamination as one of their top priorities. More than

50 percent ($9 billion) of the Farm Bill’s conservation fund is spent

on EQIP. In other words, your tax money is being used to help clean

up massive amounts of pollution that large industrial farms create,

holding corporations unaccountable which allows them to spend their

profits elsewhere.20

There are numerous issues with regard to the Farm Bill, issues that

are the cause for corruption in our current food system. While we

cannot change these policies tomorrow, we can take a stand to help

change these policies in the future.

chapter 6 local & state

between farm & table: local & state

By having local control of food allows communities to

participate in making decisions about their food supply.

Urban and rural communities have a better ability to

make sure that food production, distribution, and

marketing are carried out in ways that are healthy for

the local economy and the environment. Strong local

influence over food and agriculture ensures that relevant

policies are determined by public interest, not corporate

profits. To meet the unique needs of a community, local

jurisdictions should have unique standards differing

from state or federal laws.

The local control of our food supply helps secure the

health and welfare of communities. Local authority

strengthens democracy and gives citizens a more direct

stake in a healthy future.

LOCAL CONTROL OF OUR FOOD IMPROVES:

HEALTH With greater local control, we are able to build

food systems that improve community health. We can

select foods and ingredients based on the qualities of

flavor, freshness, and nourishment instead of factors

favoring short -term shareholder profits.

FOOD SECURITY When communities manage their

food systems, they are better able to create a healthy,

affordable, and stable food supply. In this way, the needs

of marginalized segments of the community are met.

Conversely, large food manufacturers and retailers inad-

vertently yet systemically compromise community food

security. For example, they encourage (A) global-scale

food distribution systems that are subject to disruption;

(B) large-scale, chemical-intensive, monocultural produc-

tion; and (C) store closures in low income communities

where profits are not as high.

Local Control

54 55

LOCAL ECONOMIES Local control makes it easier

to create an economic environment that fosters

locally owned and operated food and agricultural

businesses. This keeps more money cycling in the

local economy. When stores source food and other

products locally, even more money is returned to

the local community.

ENVIRONMENT Food that is locally produced and

sold typically comes from small and mid-scale,

sustainable farms. Creating stronger ties between

communities and their local food systems fosters a

connection to the land and better protects nature.

One of the biggest benefits is a significant reduc-

tion in long-distance transport, a leading consumer

of fossil fuels and contributor to climate change.

COMMUNITY AND CIVIC ENGAGEMENT Local

food systems build community as well as develop

regional identity and character. They provide much

more meaningful livelihoods for food and agriculture

workers, encourage community interaction, and

build respectful relationships amongst patrons.21

between farm & table: local & state

Right now the price we payfor conventionally grown foodis unbelievably low, and doesnot take into account the realcost of producing that food.That’s why organically grown food seems expensive. It’s not expensive actually; it’s that it’s not being subsidized.

56 57

—Willow Rosenthal, City Slicker Farms

So that’s the first thing we can do on a larger scale—

what’s going on with the Farm Bill and get some equity there.

influence

blueberry muffin skillet cake

2 2/3 cup of flour (I use half whole wheat flour)

1 tblsp baking powder

1 1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup of sugar (double this for sweeter muffins)

zest and juice from 1 lemon

2 tsp of vanilla extract

2 eggs, room temperature

1 cup + 2 tlsp of room temperature buttermilk (or regular milk or cream)

3/4 cup melted coconut oil, unsalted butter

1 1/2 – 2 cups berries (fresh or frozen)

reci

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ctio

n: s

pri

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58 59 between farm & table: our food system

Food Policy Councils convene citizens and government officials for the purpose of providing a comprehensive examination of a state or local food system. This unique, non-partisan form of civic engagement brings together a diverse array of food system stakeholders to develop a sustainable solution to food and ag policy.

GAME PLAN: To establish forums within local communities

where residents can discuss the current issues with regard to

sustainability and local farms/gardens/food.

• Weekly Newsletter

• Website

• Place of Establishment for forums

At its roots sustainable agriculture benefits the local community and local economy while supporting the environment by enriching the soil, protecting air and water quality, and minimizing energy consumption. Industrial food production is entirely too dependent on fossil fuels, which, when refined and burned, create greenhouse gases that are significant contributors to climate change.

By adding transportation, processing and packaging to the food

system equation, the fossil fuel and energy use of our current food

system puts tremendous stress on the environment. Food processors

also use a large amount of paper and plastic packaging to keep fresh

food from spoiling as it is transported and stored for long periods of

time. This packaging is difficult or impossible to reuse or recycle. In

addition, industrial farms are a major source of air and water pollution.

Small, local farms run by environmentally-conscious farmers live

on their land and work hard to preserve it. They protect open spaces

by keeping land in agricultural use and preserve natural habitats by

maintaining forest and wetlands. By being good stewards of the land,

seeking out local markets, minimizing packaging, and harvesting

food only when it is ready to consume, farmers significantly reduce

their environmental impact. In fact, studies show that sustainable

agricultural practices can actually increase food production by up to

79 percent while at the same time actively reducing the effects of

farming on climate change through carbon sequestration.22

With this knowledge, it is now our job, as both citizens and consum-

ers, to promote this sustainable way of life to make other's aware

of the realities that we face today. Despite income levels and our

geographical location, it is our job to make our voices heard. It is our

job to speak loud and clear to our local councilmen and representa-

tives about the changes that need to be made rather than sit back

and assume someone else is going to do it for you. Get involved in

your communities, initiate local organizations, take part in community

gardens and volunteer at urban farms. We're all peas in this giant pod

of a nation so we need to learn how to work together so that we may

continue to enjoy the natural resources we have access to today.

conclusion peas in a pod

CUESA Sustainable Agriculture Issues How Far Does Your Food Travel to Get to Your Plate? CUESA.

Holly Hill, Food Miles: Background and Marketing. National Sustain-able Agriculture Information Service.

Local Food. Wikipedia.

Molly Watson, Locavore. Local Foods.

Easy Ways to Eat Local. Vanguard’s Buy Local Challenge. Vanguard Communications.

Food Desert. Wikipedia.

Tyler Woods, Americans Eat Unhealthy. Emax Health.

Dawn Gifford, 13 Ways to Create a Sustainable Food Tipping Point. Farm to Table.

Shereen Jegtvig, Green Tips for Your Diet. Choosing Foods for Sustainable Living. About.com.

CSA. LocalHarvest.

Farmers’ Markets. LocalHarvest.

M. Bailkey, From Brownfields to Greenfields: Producing Food in North American Cities. Community Food Security News.

The Context For Change. Transforming Agricultural Education for a Changing World. The National Academies Press.

Kimberly Bellah, Agricultural Education=Agricultural Literacy. AllBusiness.

Jonathan Bloom, Stop Wasting Food: It’s not that hard, and it could save the planet. Post-Gazette.

John Ikerd, The Arts and Sciences of Sustainable Community-based Food Systems.

Our Current Food System. Greenpeace.

Food Deserts: Areas Without Access to Proper Foods. Truthful Politics.

John Crabtree, The Importance of Rural Grocery Stores. Center for Rural Affairs.

Policy & Legislation. The Issues. Sustainable Table.

Shaping Our Local Food Systems. Environmental Commons.

What is Local? Eat Local Buy Local Be Local. Sustainable Table.

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end notes

Designed, written and edited by Emily Shields

312.450.5581 • shields.emily@gmail.com

Photography by Chiot's Run: chiotsrun.com

Rockwell • Univers

InDesign • Photoshop

Epson 5-Star 50 lb Matte Double-Sided Paper

Epson 3880 Stylus Pro

Perfect Binding

Soft Cover with Applied Canvas-Cover

Bailkey, M. From Brownfields to Greenfields: Producing Food in North American Cities. Food Security News. Fall 1999. 13 Nov. 2010.

Bellah, Kimberly . Agricultural Education=Agricultural Literacy. All Business. 1 Jul. 2004. Web. 15 Nov. 2010.

Bloom, Jonathan. Stop Wasting Food: It’s not that hard, and it could save the planet. Post-Gazette. 21 Nov. 2010. Web. 25 Nov. 2010.

Crabtree, John. The Importance of Rural Grocery Stores. Center for Rural Affairs. 8 Nov. 2010. Web. 13 Nov. 2010.

CSA. LocalHarvest. Web. 13 Oct. 2010.

CUESA Sustainable Agriculture Issues How Far Does Your Food Travel to Get to Your Plate? CUESA, the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture. Web. 4 Sept. 2010.

Easy Ways to Eat Local. Vanguard’s Buy Local Challenge. Vanguard Communications. 4 Jul. 2008. Web. 3 Dec. 2010.

Farmers’ Markets. LocalHarvest. Web. 13 Oct. 2010.

Food Desert. Wikipedia. 29 Oct. 2010. Web. 13 Nov. 2010.

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Hill, Holly. Food Miles: Background and Marketing. National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. Web. 13 Oct. 2010.

Ikerd, John. The Arts and Sciences of Sustainable Community-based Food Systems. Web. 13 Oct. 2010.

Jegtvig, Shereen. Green Tips for Your Diet. Choosing Foods for Sustainable Living. About.com. 19 April. 2010. Web. 14 Nov. 2010.

Local Food. Wikipedia. 14 Nov. 2009. Web. 15 Nov. 2010.

Our Current Food System. Greenpeace. Web. 2 Dec. 2010.

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Shaping Our Local Food Systems. Environmental Commons. Web. 12 Dec. 2010.

The Context For Change. Transforming Agricultural Education for a Chang-ing World. The National Academies Press. 2009. Web. 13 Oct. 2010.

Watson, Molly. Locavore. Local Foods. About.com. Web. 15 Nov. 2010.

What is Local? Eat Local Buy Local Be Local. Sustainable Table. Web. 4 Sept. 2010.

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