Extreme How-To Summer 2014

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

Gutters & Downspouts for the DIYer

Summer Digital 2014 www.extremehowto.com

INTERIOR WINDOW TRIMREPLACE A CEILING FIXTURE

PLUS:

OUTDOORS IN FOCUS:

PATIOS & DECKS

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CONTENTSSumme r 2014

F E A T U R E S

20 Deck Framing Gone WildApplying the Cantilever Concept to Your Deck Designs

30 Stamped with Style Build a Patio with Decorative Concrete

42 Gutters & Downspouts for the DIYerInstall it Yourself to Protect Your Home and Save on Labor Costs

4 www.extremehowto.com

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DE PARTM ENTS

Q & A

Skill SavvyTiling Over Concrete

Project NextAdding a PVC Jamb Extension

Quick FixReplace a Ceiling Fixture

Hot Products

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cover photo ping han / Dollar Photo Club

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&


Q:Whats the best way to remove burn marks left by a router? A:Sometimes when cutting across wood grain at a low feed rate, a router bit can burn the wood, leavingunsightly dark marks. The easiest way to remove them is to get a new bit and carefully make one morepass with the router (a cut as shallow as 1/64 in. should remove the marks). Sanding with a fine-grit abrasiveis another option, but sanding a routed profile can be difficult. Youll find it easier to sand out burn marks if youapply mineral spirits to the burn before sanding. After a few minutes the spirits will penetrate the glazed area,and the marks should be easy to sand off.

Q:I am working on a new deck and would like to cover up a 6x6 post with cedar. What is the best wayto get this to look seamless, like a solid cedar post? A:Pick out four of the straightest and flattest 1x10 cedar boards you can find. Use a table saw to rip 45-degree outside miters along the edges of each board. Install the four sides wrapping the post, makingsure the miter joints line up at the edge. Glue and finish-nail the corners very carefully. Run the edge of a nailset along the seams to close the wood grain. Seal any open cracks that may turn up using caulk colored tomatch the finish.

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&Q:We hired an exterminator to kill cockroaches in our house, and the service seems to have workedinside. The problem is all the cockroaches left outdoors. At night, you can see dozens of them scurryingaround the driveway. I assume theyre coming from the city sewer system. How can I kill the roaches outside?

A:Try using boric acid, which you can pick up in the pest control section of most drug stores. Apply the pow-der to the problem areas according to the manufacturers instructions. Boric acid is deadly poison to pestslike roaches and other insects, but safe for people and pets, generally considered to be no more toxic than tablesalt. Boric acid powder is usually applied to cracks and crevices in a thin layer where insects travel. When theinsect crawls over the treated area, their legs become coated in the powder, which is then absorbed into theirbody and poisons the insect. Reapply the product after it rains. It may take a couple of weeks of reapplication tocompletely eliminate the pest problem.

Q:Wed like to replace an old vinyl floor with tile. The flooring currently has a vinyl base strip that is firmlyattached to the wall. Is there an easy way to remove this without tearing up the drywall behind the base?

A:To minimize the repair work on the drywall surface, use a heat gun over the base strip to warm the adhesive and loosen its grip on the vinyl. In a pinch, you could potentially use a hair dryer to similar effect. As the adhesive loosens, pull away the base strip. Take the extra time to reheat the exposed adhesive and scrape it away from the face of the drywall with a putty knife. This should leave a smooth surface to easilyreinstall new base trim once the flooring has been installed.


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SKILL SAVVY

Handmade clay tiles or stonetiles with naturally split sur-faces look great in a gardensetting. But accommodating thesize variation requires a slightlydifferent installation process thanyoud use for the factory-madetiles that are more commonindoors. This project originallyappeared in Walks, Walls & PatioFloors by Jeanne Huber, publishedin 2008 by Sunset Books. Thepatio features handmade saltillotiles, which are popular where win-ters are warm. They are too porousto survive a freezing winter. Theprocedure also applies to stonetile with slightly irregular dimen-sions. These saltillos were glazedat the factory. If you are using

unglazed saltillos or porous stone,apply a sealer before you installthem to prevent mortar stains.

Sort the tiles before you begin.Set aside warped pieces with aslight hump in the center until youhave mortar prepared and canspread a little, like frosting, tomake the backs flat. If thicknessvaries significantly, sort out thethicker pieces and include at leastone in each section you set sothat the paving turns out even.

Before tiling a concrete slab, besure it is stable. Deep cracks arelikely to show up in your tiled sur-face, even if you patch first. Run a straightedge along the surfaceand knock down any protrusionswith a hammer and chisel or a

grinder. Patch large holes, cleanthe concrete, let it dry, then paintthe surface with concrete bondingadhesive.

Lay out the project. Check theslab to make sure corners aresquare. If not, draw two lines at a90-degree angle to each other andmake all your measurements fromthem. Do a test run by placing tilesto make a section about 3 feetsquare. Space them to allow groutlines of a width you want. Measurethe width of the tiles plus oneextra grout line. This is the size of the squares in which the tilesshould be laid. Using a tape meas-ure and chalk line, mark lines inboth directions to produce a gridof squares.

Trowel on the mortar. Mix abatch of latex-reinforced mortar soit is just stiff enough to cling for asecond or two to a trowel held ver-tically. Using a notched trowel ofthe size recommended by the tiledealer, spread the mortar insideone of the squares. First spread athick layer using the flat side ofthe trowel. Then use the notchedside to comb the mortar. Dontscrape down to the concrete.

Tiling Over ConcreteTile a concrete patio for a decorative touch to your outdoor space.

By Jeanne Huber | Photos courtesy of Wayne Cable


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Place and align the tiles. Fill the square with tiles, leaving gaps for grout lines. Set the tilesstraight down into the mortar;dont slide them or press down on them. Stand up and examinethe tiles from several angles to be sure the grout lines are as consistent and straight as possible.

Bed the tiles and check adhesion. Place a block of wood or a piece of plywood across several tiles and gently tap it to seat the pieces evenly. Every so often, pick up a tile to make sure the mortar is sticking to atleast three-quarters of the backsurface. If its not, back-buttereach tile with a thin layer of mortar before setting it in the troweled mortar.

Cut tiles to fit. At edges, youmay need to trim some pieces. Cut tiles using a rented wet saw, or a grinder or circular sawequipped with a masonry cutt-ing blade or a diamond blade.

Some tiles are easier to cut with a snap cutter. Ask your tile dealer which cutting tool to use.

Grout and clean. Wait about 2days for the mortar to harden. Mixa batch of latex-reinforced sandedgrout just to the point that it doesnot pour readily. If joints are 38inch or wider, apply the grout with


SKILL SAVVY


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a mortar bag and shape the jointswith a brick tool or the roundedend of a trowel handle.

If joints are narrow, hold a lami-nated grout float nearly flat andpush grout between the tiles in at

least two directions. When thejoints in an area are full, tilt thefloat up and use it to squeegeeaway most of the excess grout.Drag a wet towel over the area,then wipe lightly with a damp

sponge, rinsed often. Once thegrout starts to stiffen, use thesponge to shape the surface to a consistent depth. Allow the surface to dry until a white hazeappears, then buff it away with a dry cloth. Mist the grout withwater until damp and cover it with plastic for several days, making sure it stays damp.

Editors Note: Excerpted by permission of Sunset PublishingCorporation from Walks, Walls & Patio Floors by Jeanne Huberand the editors of Sunset Books,published in 2008 by Sunset Books.Visit www.oxmoorhouse.com.


NEW IDEAS FOROUTDOOR LIVINGPatio & Stone, A SunsetDesign Guide is a handsomelyphotographed book includesthe latest ideas on design andmaterials, along with essentiallandscaping advice from indus-try professionals. Design aninviting patio with decorativefeatures such as flagstonepaths and stone walls. Discovera wealth of great landscapingmaterials, from natural stone to concrete pavers, brick andtile. Plus, you can see advancedviews of the spaces you areplanning with the 3D interac-tive design software that isincluded with the book. Formore information, visit www.oxmoorhouse.com.

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PROJECT NEXT

Want a straighter and moremaintenance-free windowjamb? Then follow thesteps taken by contractor SteveRoth.

When I went to renovate an1800s house, I found that the oldwalls were not level, says Roth.They were so imperfect that I had to frame in interior walls tostraighten them. Creating a thick-er, more even wall solved oneproblem, but presented a newdilemma: how do I frame out theinterior of the windows?

Roth found his solution by creat-ing jamb extensions made of PVC.Along with being maintenancefree, the PVC is resistant to mois-ture and adds a more complete

finished look to the interior of thewindow.

The jamb extender covers theframing material and what youreattaching the casing to, saysRoth. This simple box frameextends the window framing out tothe interior wall surface and addsto the overall design of the room.

Roth chose PVC instead of woodfor the jamb extension for severalreasons. These days its difficultto find clear pine thats not warpedor knotted, says Roth. The PVC Ipurchased from Fypon was per-fect. Each piece is 100 percentusable with no knots, splits orwarping. The 1-inch thickness ofthe PVC board made it easier tonail the casing at the final step.

And, most importantly, the PVCcomplements the vinyl on theframes window.

Moisture isnt a problem withPVC either. Some contractors takedrywall and simply return it to thewindow. Thats a plain look, andthe drywall can soak up moisture,making it a problem sometimes inless than a year. Not so with thePVC it resists condensation andhas an extensive maintenance-free lifespan.

Throughout the house, Roth created a variety of PVC jambextenderssome reaching up to12 inches in depth. To create thePVC jamb extensions, Roth fol-lowed several simple steps.

Step 1Clean up the areawhere the jamb extender will beinstalled and prep out the space.Step 2Measure the opening

space to determine the width ofthe jamb extension needed. Cutthe boards on a table saw to cre-

Adding a PVC Jamb ExtensionAlternative Idea for Interior Window Trim

By Kathy Ziprik


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www.arkestairs.com

SPIRAL STAIRSAND MODULARSTAIR CASE KITS

The OAK 70.XTRAThe Oak 70.XTRA is an adjustable premier series spiral staircase thatfeatures solid Oak wooden stair treads and landing to complementand add style to any interior living space. Surrounding the full lengthof the staircase, the horizontal balusters and railing design is visuallyunique when compared to the traditional vertical baluster design ofmost stairs. The staircase can be easily installed by the homeownerin a single day using common household tools. The Oak 70.XTRA is available in 2 diameter sizes and is available in 2 choices ofcolorHi-Gloss Black and Hi-Gloss White.

Standard kit includes 12 oak wood stair treads, a landing, a complete handrail, and all necessary hardware and connectors.

Diameters available include a 5 ft. 3 in. model and a 4 ft. 3 in. model.

The height range for the standard kit is adjustable from 8 ft. 3 in.to 10 ft. 2 7/8 in. and with additional components, can beinstalled to a maximum height of 11 ft. 9 5/16 in.

Powder coat finished painted in either Hi-Gloss Black or Hi-Gloss White.

Can be installed in a clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.

Stair treads and landing are made of solid Oak wood with a natural stain and a polyurethane protective coating.

Balcony rail kits are available in matching color and horizontal baluster and railing design.

Handrail is manufactured from an aluminum core surrounded by a soft PVC cover to allow the handrail to be curved at thetime of installation to accommodate the radius of the staircase.

Rise between stair treads is adjustable from 8 3/8 in. to 9 in.

Interior installation only.

A complete installation guide is included in all kits and an installation video is available upon request.

Homeowner should consult with local building department concerning building codes prior to purchase.

AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE USA, ARKESPIRAL AND MODULAR STAIRCASE KITSCAN BE BUILT IN A DAY BY THE AVERAGE DO-IT-YOURSELF HOME ENTHUSIAST.

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ate the box. For this project, thewall space was 3-1/2 inches indepth. Roth recommends cuttingthe boards and assembling theunit on a workbench instead ofnailing directly to the window inorder to control the length, widthand squareness of the jamb extender.

Step 3Round-over the sharpedges on the inside corner of theconstructed box with a router.

Step 4Once the box is constructed, attach the Fypon PVC casing to the box area.

Step 5Fit the jamb extenderinto the opening to test for accura-cy of fit. The jamb extender shouldfill in the entire area and extendout from the window framing to lieflush with the interior wall surface.Step 6Ensure that the jamb

extender is plumb and level in theopening. Nail through the jambextender into the framing. Finally,nail through the PVC casing like a

nail flange into the wall. Finish byfilling in nail holes. Now you havea secure jamb extension thatdefies moisture while adding atouch of class to the room.

Editors Note: For more information on PVC board and trim products, visitwww.fypon.com or call 1-800-446-3040.


PROJECT NEXT

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Applying the

Cantilever

Concept to Your

Deck Designs

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ending points of your joists do not need to be dialed in either.Another big advantage of the cantilever is that you can hidefootings, block and post backunder the deck and they wontinterfere with trim or skirting.When I lay out the blocks for

a post-and-beam floor system,whether its for a shed or a deck, I purposefully put the rows ofblocks about one foot inside thefinished structure in both direc-tions. I reach the outside of thedeck with cantilevered beams inone direction and cantileveredjoists in the other direction.One of the big advantages to

this system of cantilevering is thatthe blocks do not need to be laid

out precisely, other than just beingin line with the beams. So the postand beam layout can be relativelysquare, and then as the joists getput in position they can be alignedand squared more precisely.In addition to the concept of

cantilever, is the idea of runningmaterial wild until you make yourfinal cut. Let it run wild is a con-struction expression that simplymeans to leave a little extra mate-rial hanging out there to be cut offlater. You dont have to make thefinal decision on the exact deckdimensions until you see howeverything is coming together. Youcan trim beams when you aredone with the joist layout. You cantrim joists when the deck boards

Another thing I like to put off indeck construction is screwingdown the deck boards, especiallywhen youre building a deck in thesummer heat and humidity. Put injust enough screws to hold deckboards in position and add therest of the screws in the cool ofthe evening. You can pick upspeed driving deck screws bystarting them with a hammer.

You can save time by cutting theposts for your post-and-beam sys-tem from a cut list. Simply markthe length of each post as its cutto match it up with the numbersthat you wrote on the pyramidblocks as you were getting themeasurements.

With the pyramid blocks firmly set into the ground and the postscut and in position, the layout isready for the beam.

With all of the joists toe-nailed in position, we then added hurricane ties to connect the joists to the beams.

SCREW IT LATER

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are nearly completed and you cantrim deck boards after they areinstalled. Chalk lines and sawguides help make straight cuts on the ends of the beams, thejoists and the deck boards.Heres how we used cantilevers

to build the second level of our low deck:

CANTILEVERS RUN WILDMy friend Dave usually scratches

out his material lists on jobsitestationary (a scrap of wood) on hisway to the lumber yard while driv-ing, drinking coffee and talking onthe cell phone. A horn may soundas he drifts into someone elseslane, which Dave considers rude.Hey, Im designing a deck here!If this sounds a bit dangerous,

most home-improvement stores

and lumber yards can give yousome help on whats needed for a standard deck layout.For this project I figured we

needed about three 14-footbeams, eight pyramid blocks (oneof the beams was over an oldslab), about ten joists, a box ofhurricane ties, an assortment ofgalvanized nails and a couplemore boxes of deck screws. Wealready had the decking boards onhand. We started by spacing outthe beams on the ground at theapproximate spacing that weneeded, keeping in mind that wewanted to keep the beams insidethe deck structure about a footfrom where we expected the finaldecking to be.In the case of this particular

section of deck, the elevation was

determined by making a full stepup from the lower section of deckwe had built earlier. We decidedthat one full-width deck boardwould make a good riser and agood step height going up to thenext level of deck. We wanted thesecond level of decking to be per-pendicular to the first level, so wehad to make sure that the beamswere running perpendicular to thefirst level of decking. Building thisway, the joists would run parallelto the first deck boards, and inturn the deck boards for the nextlevel up would be perpendicular tothe first level of decking. Got it?We spaced the pyramid blocks

evenly along each of the beams,keeping in mind again that wewanted to stay back from the out-side edge of the deck to allow thebeam to cantilever out beyond thefinal position of the edge of thestructure. With the pyramid blocksin place, we cut the sod aroundthem and got the base of theblocks sitting on solid ground, niceand flat and level. [Note: Some


Notice that the beams are cantilevered out past the outside pyramidblocks and that the joists cantilever out past the outside support beams.

Snapping a chalk line across thejoists gives a straight referencepoint to make sure the deckingboards stay straight.

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WILD


areas require permits to builddecks, the decks may need tomeet specific codes, and its con-struction may require inspection.Research what the requirementsare in your area.] We propped the beams tem-

porarily in place above the blocksand leveled them with scraps oflumber, old tires, bags of Quikreteand whatever else we had handy.We measured from the bottom ofeach beam to the top of eachblock to get the heights of theposts. We marked each blockwith this dimension then cut allthe posts, marking each post asit was cut so we could matcheach post to its block.We ignored the manufacturers

recommendations for joist spac-ing. Our testing found it was tooflexible for their recommendedspacing. We used more joists and placed them closer togetherthan the manufacturers recom-mendation.We used a string line to align

the joist ends where they joined

the lower deck level but let themrun wild, beyond the edge of thedeck, at the other end.After crowning the joists, put-

ting them on the layout marksand toenailing them into place,we then added hurricane ties to connect the joists to thebeams.The layout of the first joist, the

one closest to the house, waspurposefully kept a couple ofinches inside the proposed edgeof the finished deck to allow usflexibility. In other words, weplanned to have a little cantileveron the decking boards them-selves.To get started on the decking

we put the first board in position,and then measured from the endof the joist to the outside edge ofthe board. We wanted the deckboard to overhang 1 and 7/16inches so we measured to thejoist, set the deck board, put ascrew in it at one end, then wentto the other end and did thesame thing.


When setting the overhang forthe first deck board on the upperlevel, we allowed for the thick-ness of the step riser/rim joist,plus about a 1/4 overhang.

A new product called Fast2K comes in a small book-sized pouch but replaces 50 lbs. of concrete for setting deckand fence posts. Having built both the deck and fence around my house, I know too well the sweaty, hard workinvolved with mixing concrete and setting a post, and it doesnt get any more fun when you have dozens more to go.With the new Fast2K product, just break the seal on the two-part pouch, mix for thirty seconds, position the post andthen pour the product around the bottom. I watched a demonstration and was amazed at how the product expandedwithin two minutes to completely fill the space around the post, setting it securely. Check out www.Fast2K.com.

SET POSTS SUPER FAST



TRIM IT LATERWe waited to install the fascia board/rim joist (skirting on a higher deck) until the rail system was finished to allow access to the post areas under the deck.

To use the chalk line for straight deck boards, first start a screw in the board. Then measure from the board tothe chalk mark and move the board as needed so the distance is the same at the middle and ends of the deckboard. Then drive the screw home.

We made a mark 32 inches on the joist at each edge of thedeck and snapped a chalk linebetween those two marks. Thisgave us a reference point to makesure the deck boards were straightas we proceeded by simply match-ing the measurements to thechalk marks on a couple of thejoists out in the middle of the lay-out. This is much easier than try-ing to hover a string line above thefirst deck board to get it straight.After the first deck board is onstraight, you can hook your tape tothe outside edge of the deck andcheck the boards periodically asthe decking is installed.

As we were getting to the edgeof the deck near the ends of the

cantilevered joists, it was time todetermine exactly where the joistsneeded to be cut. We did this byputting the last deck board inplace, marking the outside edge ateach end, making another markinside that, which is closer to thedeck by the thickness of a deckboard that we would later use as a rim joist/trim piece, plus a littlereveal.

We then tackled trimming thedeck boards, which we let runwild. We first had to finish the

We snapped a chalk line acrossthe top of the joist to be cut andused a Speed Square to projectthe mark down the face of thejoist before cutting it off with a circular saw.

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outside board on the lower deck, and then it was a matter of simply moving that layout to the upper deckand snapping a chalk line for the cut location.

Next time you plan a deck or shed floor, considerusing cantilevers in your design. Not only can you hideblocks and posts under the deck, you can also put off layout decisionsuntil later in theprocess. Works for me.


LEFT HAND, RIGHT BRAINYou may have noticed that the circular saws you own either have the blade on

the left or the right side of the saw. You probably have a preference for whichsetup you like best, but dont forget about the saw that has the blade on theother side for those tight cuts when left doesnt work right.

After snapping a chalk line across the deck boardsto indicate where they were to be cut, we used astraight edge board against some sixteen pennynails, parallel with the chalk line at a distance thatequals the distance from the edge of the saw baseto the blade.

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Build a Patio withDecorativeConcrete

By Monte Burch


WITH STYLE

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Concrete is one of mankinds most useful inventions, and also one of the oldest. Highways,sidewalks, bridges, buildings, all are made of this utilitarian and often unglamorous product.Concrete, however, doesnt have to be mundane. With a variety of techniques concrete canbe made extremely decorative. Stained and stamped with a variety of patterns, concrete can looklike bricks, cobblestone, flagstone, even wood, or a variety of unusual artistic patterns. Stained andstamped concrete can turn a ho-hum slab into a beautiful patio or sidewalk. It is also a great wayof redoing an old, deteriorated walk or patiosimply pour fresh concrete over the old.


PREP THE SITEThe first step, as in any concrete

project, is proper preparation ofthe site and building a form tohold the concrete in the desiredshape. The sub-grade must be uni-formly graded and evenly compact-ed. If pouring in hot weather, it isrecommended to soak the groundprior to the pour. The sub-base

material, however, must be dry at the time of the pour.

If pouring a patio or walk, themix and reinforcing should meetthe strengths of the project needsand be suitable for externalpaving. The formwork should beset to establish proper drainage of the area and to be used forscreeding and layout. A minimumof 2-percent slope should beallowed for exterior paving sec-tions. All grade pins should be set below grade to prevent inter-fering with the texturing process.All formwork should be properlysquared, and also squared to anyexisting structures. This is espe-cially important if using a pat-terned texturing tool.

COLORFUL CONCRETETwo methods are used for

coloring concrete, a spread-oncolor hardener or an integral colorant. Both can be used withready-mixed or bagged materials.Color hardener has some dust andhealth hazards in application dueto the content of the silica sandinvolved. The technique showninvolves integral coloring productsfrom Matcrete (www.Matcrete.com).

The Matcrete Integral Color is a pre-measured admixture for

coloring ready-mixed concrete dur-ing batching. The pigments arelime-proof, pure synthetic mineraloxides for all concrete flat-workinstallations, interior floors andexterior hardscapes. The systemalso works for precast, tilt-up and cast-in-place applications.Packaged in 25-pound disintegrat-ing bags, the product is availablein a wide range of colors. Thedosage rate found with the colorswatch is the amount of colorneeded to tint 94 pounds of con-crete. Typical dosage rates rangefrom 1/4 to 4 pounds of MatcreteIntegral Color per sack (94 poundsof cement). Exceeding 10-percentcolor content can have an adverseaffect on the strength of the con-crete. If a more vibrant color isdesired, consider using MatcreteDustone Color Hardener which,due to its application, is not limit-ed to these same restrictions and in fact can increase surfacestrength. But you must follow allsafety regulations.

Integral Color is added to theconcrete in the mixing drum. Ifmixed at the plant, the drum mustbe cleaned, and approximatelytwo-thirds of the mix water andone-half of the aggregates neededshould be added to the drum. Donot use slurry water or reclaimedaggregates. Add the correctamount of Matcrete Integral Colorto the drum and mix at full charg-ing speed for three to five minutesor until all bags break apart andthe pigment is distributed evenly.

As with any concrete project, theproper form must be constructedto hold the concrete until it sets.

For an exterior project, the formmust have a grade of at least 2percent to allow for water runoff.

If using pattern stamps and asquare or rectangular pour, makesure the form is assembledsquare.

The form can, however, incorpo-rate rounded or irregular edges,with the stamps simply extendingpast the form boards.


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Add the balance of the ingredients(water, aggregates, cement andadmixtures) and mix at full charg-ing speed for 8 to 10 minutes (80to 100 revolutions). It is the ready-mix suppliers responsibility tomake sure the bags have fully dis-integrated. Note: A ready-mix com-pany will probably charge a smallfee for extra cleaning of the drum.

If coloring the concrete at thejobsite, open the bag and pour the

pigment directly into the drum,then discard the bag. Again mixthoroughly before distribution. Mixcolor and pre-bagged concreteaccording to the manufacturersspecific instructions.

TEXTURE OPTIONSThe colored concrete can be fin-

ished in a variety of means. Use abull float after striking off the slab.For most finishes, use wood bullfloats and derbies, not magne-sium. Wait for the bleed watersheen to disappear before youstart floating and troweling. Do notover-trowel or start troweling lateas this leads to burns and darkspots.

Following are some of the various textures that can be usedwith Matcrete Integral Color:Broomed: Made by pulling

special brooms across stiff, freshlyfloated or troweled concrete sur-face. For variety, broomed


The simplest method of coloringthe concrete is with and integralcoloring agent, such as MatcreteIntegral Color. The coloring agentcan be mixed at the job site inready-mix deliveries, or in smallbatches using bagged concrete.

Due to a wet area, as well as asewer drain line near the pour, theconcrete was delivered to the formfrom the ready-mix truck with atractor bucket.

The colored concrete is poured in the form and shoveled or pulled intoall portions of the form.

WITH STYLE


texture can be heavy or light, or in straight or wavy lines. Exposed Aggregate: Aggregate

is exposed by seeding the freshconcrete with aggregate which canbe colored, sparkling, fractured orsmooth. Before the concrete setsthoroughly, a pressure washer isused to wash away some of thetop surface and expose the aggre-gate. Set-retarding compounds areoften used to slow the set, butmake sure you follow the manufac-turers instructions. The aggregatecan also be exposed by removingthe surface cement with acid etch-ing, sand blasting, grinding orhammering. Exposure level canvary from barely revealing fineaggregate to up to 1/3 of thediameter of coarse aggregateexposed. Stamping or imprinting:

Stamping tools are pressed intothe concrete to create a patternand then removed. A powderrelease agent or plastic sheet isplaced on the concrete surfaceafter floating and troweling.

STAMPING IN DETAILA wide variety of stamps are

available ranging in design frombrick, cobblestone, stone, and ash-lar slate to patterns that resemblewooden planks. Matcrete has over175 patterns to choose from. Theconcrete stamps are made from ahigh-quality urethane with fixedhandles designed for quick andeasy placement. Stamps are avail-able as seamless imprinting or inset patterns. Seamless texture or

non-directional patterns are theeasiest and fastest way of stamp-ing concrete as there is no setdirection or lay-down pattern to follow. Regardless, a wide set ofvariables is involved in properlyimprinting concrete including: temperature, sunlight or shade,wind, access and the depth of the stamping tool. Regardless of the design used,

the concrete should be coveredwith either a plastic membrane orrelease powder to prevent thecement from sticking to the con-crete stamp. Matcrete ReleasePowder, a fine talc-like powder, isnot only quick and easy to use, itadds a secondary color to theColor Hardened concrete. Beforeapplication of the release powder,it should be air-entrained to beatair back into it. The fine powdersettles during transportation. Aportable electric drill and paddlemixer works quite well. Broadcastthe powder over the surface byhand, brush or even the lid fromthe bucket. Broadcast as low tothe surface as possible, tossingthe powder across and not down


A screed board is used to levelthe concrete to the form boards.

A bull float is used to smooth and float the concrete surface.

The edges should be smoothedusing an edger, and then a floatused to further smooth out theedges.


on the surface. Avoid lumps onthe surface, as this may createblank spots in the texture. Therate of application depends on the concrete set rate, depth ofdesired texture and wind speed.Do not apply this on a windy day.Approximately 3-1/2 pounds isrequired per 100 feet.

PATTERNED STAMPING Patterned stamping requires

careful layout and tool placement.Joint spacing must be considered.You will need stamping tools tospan the entire slab in one direc-tion and begin the second row. Its a good idea to lay out thedesign and even lay out thestamping tools in the patterndesired next to the pour, so youresure of the tool positioning. Onceyou have determined the pattern,and that the concrete will hold up to the weight of the personand tool, youre ready to place the first stamp. Place the stamp flat on the sur-

face of the concrete using thehandles on the back. If possible,start against the structure or anystraight edge that will permit thetool to remain square. Do not drag

The release powder is sprinkleduniformly on the surface.

Once the concrete is sturdyenough to support a person andthe stamps, the stamps areapplied. In most instances youwill need enough stamps to goacross one end of the pour.Position one stamp, following themanufacturers instructions.

Position the remaining stamps inthe row and tamp as per theinstructions. In some instancesyou can walk on the stamps forthe imprint, but a tamper makesthe chore more precise.

Make sure you correctly lift thestamps and do not drag or shiftthem on the concrete. Then sim-ply repeat the process, applyingthe stamps according to themanufacturers instructions forthe specific stamps.

Before stamping, a release agentsuch as Matcrete ReleasePowder should be applied. Theproduct not only prevents thestamps from sticking, but alsoprovides an additional color. Theagent must be air-entrainedbefore use.


At the edges, allow the stamping tool to hang off the edge.

WITH STYLE


the stamp across the concrete as this will scuff and scratch thesurface and mar the imprint.Continue to set the remainingstamping tools, following theinstructions for that particular pattern. Patterned tools are color-coded to help reduce pattern repeat on the surface.Rotate the colors so the surface is randomly stamped. Once all the tools are in place,

use a pounder or tamping tool tocreate the imprint. If the concreteis too soft to continue stampingyou should refrain from stampinguntil it has the same consistencyand will properly support theweight of the person and tool.Continue to move and tamp thetools in the direction of the pouruntil the entire surface has beenimprinted. Always set the next rowtight to the first to keep the linessquare. Using a small SeamlessTexture Skin, work around hard-to-reach edges such as steps, wallsand columns. Additional detailingcan be done using a touch wheeland chisels.

SEAMLESS TEXTURING You will need a minimum of

three large Seamless TextureSkins. Place the first flat on thesurface using the handles. Thenplace the second and third, over-lapping each by 4 to 6 inches.Once you have stamped the tex-ture evenly into the concrete youmust underlap the first skin fromthe other two before you can pick it up and move into the next

position. Repeat the process untilyou have covered the completearea. When you move each stamp,rotate it 90 degrees to ensurethere is no repeat of the design.

CURING AND CLEANUPThe next steps are curing and

wash-down. The main purpose ofcuring is to increase durability andreduce early carbonation on thesurface. Keeping the powderedrelease agent on the surface for aperiod of seven days will help pre-vent early carbonation by limitingthe exposure to carbon dioxide inthe atmosphere. Regardless, it isrecommended the concrete has aminimum of 48 hours to hardenbefore the wash-down procedure. The first step is to remove all

forms, then sweep excess releasepowder from the surface. Collectas much of the release powder aspossible in a ditch or sump hole.Then dampen the concrete sur-face with water. Using a pressurewasher with a minimum of 2,000psi, clean off the release powder.Working the dampened surfacewith a soft-bristle push broom will also help. Matcrete AntiqueRelease and Efflorescenceremover can also be used toremove stubborn stains. Clean

The stamped concrete and release agent should be allowed to cure for at least 48 hours.

Sweep off the excesspowder. If possible, capture the excess powder for proper

disposal.



the concrete surface until thewater runs clear and the overallappearance is desired.

The final step is to apply a sealerto protect the concrete and seal inthe coloring. A number of sealersare available, and its extremelyimportant to follow the directions

for the specific sealer. The con-crete should be sufficiently curedand moisture migration complete.The surface must be free of dust,debris, moisture and any othercontaminants. The sealer shown isTK Products Achro Kure, availablefrom Decorative Concrete Supply,

www.murraydecorative.com, agood source for all the decorativeconcrete products and tools. Thefirst coat of sealer should beapplied evenly with a high-pressuresprayer. The second coat can beapplied when the first coat hasthoroughly dried (three hour re-coat time). Depending on theporosity of the concrete, you mayneed a third coat. Foot traffic ispermitted within 24 hours andvehicular within 72 hours.


Using a pressure washer with at least2,000 psi, wash the remaining powderfrom the surface.

You may also wish to use a soft-bristle push broom to removestubborn areas.

An old, discolored sidewalk orpatio can be brightened by pour-ing new concrete over the oldand creating a colored andstamped design.

Small jobs can be poured usingbagged concrete, which can beeasily mixed and poured using aCrete-Sheet mixing bag.

EHT

WITH STYLE


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In general, gutters and downspouts are far from the most glamorousfeature of a home, but these systems are the unsung heroes that pro-tect your house from water damage. By collecting roof runoff anddiverting it away from the building envelope, gutters and downspoutshelp to prevent damage such as wood rot, mold and mildew. The house shown in this article was built in 1978 and only

had a single gutter and two downspouts installed at thefront, with nothing on the rear. As a result, during a rainstorm the water was cascading off the rear of the roof and pounding a trench along the foundationwall, where it was seeping through the ground andmigrating through the cinderblock, as evidenced bywater stains on the interior of the wall. By installinga gutter and a couple of downspouts, the water ischanneled away from that troublesome trench anddiverted across the yard and away from the housewalls. Professional installation of metal gutters often

involves specialized equipment used to form guttersfrom sheet metal at the job site. One advantage of pro-fessional installation is that the gutters can be installedwith a seamless system, which provides the best protec-tion against leaks. Plus, the gutter contractor will be the guyworking atop a ladder at the roof line, which is a big selling pointfor homeowners who arent comfortable with the heights of roof work.However, for do-it-yourselfers who dont mind working on a ladder, youcan save considerable labor costs by installing a gutter using the sec-tional systems available at your local home center.


Install it yourself to

protect your homeand save on labor costs.

FOR THE DIYER

&GUTTERSDOWNSPOUBy Matt Weber

GutterFeatureEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:22 PM Page 42

OUTS


For this particular job, I pickedup the materials at my localLowes, which distributesAmerimax aluminum gutter sys-tems. The first step is to sketch outyour gutter system on paper so you can quantify the variouscomponents required. Measureyour roof line and wall height to cal-culate the number of 10-ft. sec-tions of gutter and downspoutyoull need. I was working withstandard 5-in. gutters with a Kprofile. Next, account for end caps,seamers, inside or outside cornerpieces, downspout elbows and enddrops. Youll also need mastic forsealing the joints, downspoutbands to fasten to the house, andsheet-metal screws to connect thedownspout sections. To hang thegutter, you can choose from a vari-ety of fastener types. I chose to usehidden bracket fasteners that areheld to the fascia with screws.Heres how homeowners can installa gutter, protect their home andsave some cash by doing it themselves

GETTING STARTEDWhen installing a gutter system,

be prepared to spend a lot of timeworking at potentially dangerousheights. Because so much roofwork is involved, I highly recom-mend attaching a ladder stabilizerto the top of your ladder. I pickedup a Werner Ladder Stabilizer atLowes, which proved on this job tobe the best 25 bucks I could havespent. Not only does this simplebracket attachment safely preventthe ladder from swaying from leftto right while youre standing on it, but it also provides a 10-in.standoff from the roof line, whichmakes it easy to access the fasciaand gutter without obstructionfrom the ladder. The stabilizer also rests on the roof, rather thanon the shingles, fascia or housesiding, so theres no worry of

accidental damage from contactwith the ladder.

To begin installation, safely posi-tion the ladder on even groundwith the ladder stabilizer firmlysupported by the roof deck. Climbup to one corner and hook the endof a chalk line at the point whereyou want the top edge of the gut-ter to terminate. Unreel the line asyou move to the opposite end ofthe fascia. At that corner, first levelthe string, and then drop the stringabout 1 in. per 40-ft. run and snapthe chalk line. This achieves a

slope that helps gravity pull waterto the downspout locations. If youhave a long run with downspoutsat both ends of the gutter, you canslope the gutter from its midpointtoward both of the book-endingdownspouts.

PREASSEMBLYEven when using a ladder stabi-

lizer, the safest and easiest way towork is to assemble as much ofthe gutter system on the groundas possible.

I designed this particular guttersystem to have a downspout ateach end, which required an enddrop at each downspout location.To join the end drop to the gutteror to join any gutter section toanotherrequires a seamer. The seamer is a 3-inch wide pieceof aluminum in a K profile tomatch the gutter. First, apply gut-ter sealant or mastic to the topside of the seamer piece. Then,wrap the seamer around the

butted gutter components frombelow. The front of the seamerhooks to the front edge of the gutter. The rear of the seamer


The various gutter componentsare connected with aluminumseamers and gutter mastic.

&GUTTERSDOWNSPOUTS


SureDriveFP_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:54 PM Page 45

extends above the rear of the gut-ter, and you fold this extended flapof metal over the rear edge of thegutter. Use pliers to crimp both thefront and rear lip of the seamertightly onto the gutter. Then, coverthe visible seam inside the gutterwith a generous bead of mastic.With the end drops positioned

over the corner of each wall, I still had 12-1/2 inches of gutterbetween the end drop and the endof the roof. This required cutting ashort section of gutter, seamingthe piece onto the end drop, andthen applying an end cap usingthe gutter mastic. Before installingthe gutter section, give the mastica few hours to dry and gain somerigidity at the joints.

CUTTING TO SIZEWhen assembling the gutter

and downspouts, you will likelyhave to cut some of the materialsto length. One basic method is toclamp the material firmly to a cou-ple of saw horses and cut using a hacksaw. A good pair of metalsnips can also do the job. Either of those methods work

fine, but I used a sliding miter saw

with a fine-toothed blade turnedbackwards. The speed of theblade combined with the back-wards teeth make a nice, cleancut with very little operator effort.Note: When cutting gutter materialon the miter saw, turn the sectionupside down so the cut enters themore stable underside of the gut-ter rather than the top edges.

FASTENERSGutter fasteners come in

a wide variety of styles andshapes. Some of the optionsinclude screw and ferrule, fasciabrackets, roof hangers with strap,or hidden hangersthe kind Ichose. The hidden hangers clipover the rear edge of the gutterand hook beneath the front lip.Each hidden fastener comes witha 1/4-in. hex-head screw that youpower drive into the fascia boardto hang the gutter. I pre-attached the hidden

hangers while assembling the gutter section at ground level.Simply clip them in place every 2 feet along the length of the gutter section. Make sure to locate a fastener near the end of each gutter section to minimizestress at the joint locations.

HANGING IT SOLOAs is usually the case, I was

working without any help, but ifyou can recruit a friend or neigh-bor to help install the gutter then I suggest doing so. Although thegutter sections are very light-


An end cap ensures the water that exits the gutter in a controlled flowthrough the downspout.

&GUTTERSDOWNSPOUTS


weight, their size makes themcumbersome for a single individ-ual to carry up the ladder and nailin place. But thats what I did.To install the first section I

placed the ladder on the roofabout midway of where the firstsection would be installed. Ihauled the gutter section to thetop, positioned its end about

1 inch past the roof line, andholding the section from the middle of the gutterI slightlytilted it so its top edge matchedthe slope of my chalk line. I thenzapped in the screw of the centerfastener. The aluminum gutters are so

lightweight that a single screw willhold the section temporarily in

place. By having the center screwsecured, I had a pivot point whereI could more accurately positionthe gutter along the chalk line anddrive home the remaining screwsto anchor the gutter. And, thats pretty much the

basics of hanging the gutter:Rinse and repeat. Start at oneend and work toward the opposite,assembling as much of the gutteron the ground as possible andsecuring it with fasteners at theroof line. The only difference isthat you will have to seam togeth-er the adjoining gutter sections atthe roof line rather than on theground.

DOWNSPOUTSOnce the gutter was completed

with end drops located at eachwall corner, I then assembled the downspouts. To do so, I temporarily duct-taped an elbowto the flange outlet of each enddrop. (The flanges are secured tothe end drops using mastic andsheet metal screws.) I used astraight edge to follow the trajec-tory of the elbow toward the wallwhere the second elbow would belocated. I then temporarily tapedthe second elbow to the wall.Next, I used a ruler to measurethe downspout section I needed toinstall between the two elbows.Note that each downspout and


Install hangers every 24 inches along the gutter.

The flange is secured in the enddrop with gutter sealant andscrews (screws not pictured).



COVER UP FOR EASY MAINTENANCEGutter protection is a hot item among the many homeowners who groan at the prospect of climbing onto the roof to

scrape muck out of their gutters. The idea behind these products is to prevent leaves and other debris from accumulat-ing in the gutter system, which can cause blockage and in some areas lead to ice dams. Here are three differentdesigns to consider when selecting a gutter protection device.

LeafBlox is a product that the EHT staff affectionately refers to as fuzzy caterpillars or big pipe cleaners. Thats what they look like anyway, but this interesting design for a gutter guard costs a fraction of many competitive systems and provides 360-degree internal protection to block leaves, branches and other debris, including nesting birds, insects or squirrels from getting into your rain gutters. Simple to install by hand, the LeafBlox product also prevents standing water in your rain gutters that can be a breeding ground for insects and disease. Visit www.leafblox.com.

GutterFill is a porous, foam-like product that fits popular gutter sizes and styles. Each style is cut to fit inside your gutter and seals out all debris, while allowing water to quickly flow through it. GutterFill fills your gutters and utilizes the entire surface area of your gutters to capture all of the water. It can handle water flows of up to 24 inches per hour, and it all goes into your downspout. The product screens pine straw, maple whirlies, seeds and small pieces of debris that tend to get into your gutters or entirely block your covers and screens, preventing any water from entering the gutters. GutterFill also stops mosquitoes from breeding in your gutters by preventing access to water, and it includes built-in BioCide to stop the growth of moss, mold and mildew. GutterFill comes with a 20-year, no-clog guarantee. Visit www.americangutterfilter.com.

Gutter Guard is a system of hinged metal covers with a convex design that covers both the gutters and the edge of the roof to prevent leaves, twigs and other debris accumulation. Made of galvanized steel, aluminum, copper or powder-coated steel, the Gutter Guards simply snap onto the front edge of the gutter using hinged stainless steel clips. The guards install in seconds with the push of the thumb, and if there ever is a need to clean them, just flip up the guards at the hinge for easy gutter access. We purchased this product at our local Lowes, www.lowes.com.

I used a straight ruler to measure the downspout needed between two elbows. The downspout sections connectwith slip joints, each fastened with at least two aluminum screws driven into predrilled holes.

&GUTTERSDOWNSPOUTS


elbow has one end crimped. Theparts are joined by fitting the larger end of one over the smallerend of the other. In other words,downspouts are connected usinga slip joint (not a butt joint like thegutters), so be sure to account for the overlapping slip joint whenmeasuringusually 1 inch ofdownspout overlapping the elbow at each end.

Assemble the downspout at theground level, driving primed sheet-metal screws into predrilled holesat each joint in the downspout.Use two screws per joint.

Fasten the downspouts snuglyagainst the wall, with two flexiblealuminum downspout bands per10-foot section using nails orscrews. A little temporary ducttape helps to keep the downspout

stationary while fastening. Finally, attach a front or side

elbow at the downspouts bottomto direct water away from thehouse foundation. In some casesyou can use a section of down-spout as an extension. However, I used a length of Flex-Drain,which can bend and extend from3 to 12 feet to easily aim thewater where you want it.


QUESTIONS ON CORNERS?The installation shown in this article is pretty straightforward, with no corners to overcome during the project.

However, creating corners is easy with sectional gutter systems. The corner sections are sold as pre-manufactured com-ponents: both Outside Miters and Inside Miters are available, so you dont have to worry about seaming a 45-degree cut.All thats required is careful measurement of the components, and then to seam the two butted square sides of themiter piece into the gutter run as usual.

EHT

Diagram courtesy Amerimax


QUICK FIX

Replacing an out-of-style ceil-ing fixture not only updatesthe look of a room becauseof the new fixtures appearance,but the manner in which it castslight can also dramatically impactthe ambience of the living space.From single-light fluorescents toelaborate dining room pendants,ceiling-mounted light fixtures areprominent features of the interiordcor. Ceiling fixtures range in style

from elegant chain-mounted chan-deliers with sparkling crystals andcandle-style lighting to more mod-ern track-style fixtures that featuremultiple, adjustable lamps thatoperate from a single electricalbox.

Regardless of style, the majorconcern when selecting a replace-ment feature is to ensure that thebox, ceiling and wiring will supportthe weight of the fixture. For a newfixture that weighs approximatelythe same as the old one, the exist-ing electrical box will probably suf-fice. However, if the replacementis heavier, the ceiling box mayneed to be replaced to support the extra weight.

OUT WITH THE OLDReplacing a light fixture

doesnt require an electrician.Following a few simple safetyguidelines, a DIY homeowner can easily replace a fixture successfully, although the work

should be inspected by a profes-sional. Also, check with local offi-cials to see if a permit is required.Before making your first move,

turn off the power at the breakerbox. Do this by flipping a circuitbreaker or unscrewing a fuse. Usea voltage tester to make sure thepower is off. When removing the old fixture,

use a work platform fastened to a ladder to support the weight ofthe fixture while you remove themounting screws from the electri-cal box. With the screws out, pulloff the box cover and disconnectthe wiring. The wires should betwisted together and capped witha wire nut. To disconnect, justunscrew the wire nut and untwistthe wire pairs.

By Matt Weber


Replace a Ceiling FixtureLight up your lifefrom above.

The first step to replace the fix-ture is always to disconnect thepower supply. Then support thefixture and unscrew the mountingscrews from the electrical box.

QuickFixEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:35 PM Page 50

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ASSEMBLE THE FIXTUREOrganize the fixtures compo-

nents, including the canopy, thehanging hardware, etc. Becauseceiling fixtures vary greatly in style and construction, so do theassociated components and theassembly process. Any quality light-ing manufacturer will includeassembly instructions

specific to the fixture model, andusually the job requires nothingmore than a screwdriver. The cordof the light fixture follows thechain, looping through the linksperiodically to keep the cord andchain bundled. Remember tothread the box cover, the newmounting strap (which screws intothe junction box) and any othernecessary parts over the wire andchain before installing.

Next, use your ladder/work plat-form combo to support the weightof the fixture. Ultimately, the heightof your hanging fixture is up to you.However, hanging fixtures are oftenpositioned above focal points, suchas a dining room table. In that situ-ation, a good rule of thumb is toinstall the fixture about 30 inchesabove the table. To do so, it helps tohave an assistant hold the fixturein place on the ceiling while youmeasure the distance and adjustthe chain accordingly. To shorten a chain, just cut it to length withmetal snips, and then cut the wiring6 inches longer than the chain.

WIRING BASICSIn modern wiring, individual

wires are bundled together in asheathed cable. Two-wire withground cables have a black wire,a white wire and an uninsulatedground wire. Three-wire withground cables (used with three-way and four-way switches) have a black wire, a white wire, a redwire and an uninsulated ground.

Older homes have knob andtube wiring. Instead of cables,knob and tube wiring is a two-wire system in which individualwires are insulated with white orblack treated fabric.

Regardless of your wiring system,the white wire is usually the neutralwire, and the black is the live orhot wire. Any red wires are hot, too.The unsheathed, exposed copperwires are ground wires. (Note: In

some cases a wiring installation mayrequire a white wire to be hot, inwhich case it should be marked withblack tape. However, just because itshould have been marked doesntmean that it was marked.)

If only a single cable, or one setof black and white wires, enters

Many light fixtures dont haveblack and white wires, in whichcase, look for a rib on the wiresheathing to determine the neu-tral wire.

Once the wires are properly con-nected, screw the mounting plateto the junction box, then followwith the canopy and locknut.

QUICK FIX

Assemble the various componentsof the new fixture according tothe manufacturers instructions.

Connect the wiring by matchingthe color-coded wires of the sup-ply line and fixture, twisting themtogether, and then capping eachconnection with a wire nut.



the box, then the fixture is at theend of the circuit. This is common,but not guaranteed, with ceiling fixtures and allows for the simplestmethod of installation. If twocables (or two sets of black andwhite wires) enter the box, the fix-ture is in the middle of a circuit. If

a fixture is in the middle of a cir-cuit, you will have to twist multiplewires together. Those general wiring guidelines

should give an idea of how to iden-tify the hot and neutral wires of the supply cable. However, manylight fixtures do not actually haveblack and white cables, but its stillimportant to connect the neutralwire of the circuit to the neutralwire of the light. To identify theneutral wire, examine the lampcord closely; the neutral wire usually has a white rib on thesheathing as its indicator.

GET CONNECTEDAll thats required for installa-

tion is a screwdriver, a ladder andsome wire strippers. It may help to screw the mounting strap to the junction box to keep the wiresclose together while you work.Using a combination stripper, pinch the wire in the appropriatelysized hole, squeeze to cut thesheathing, and twist and pull toremove about 3/4-inch of insula-tion from each wire. Match the fixture wires to the supply wiresaccording to sheathing color (hot tohot, neutral to neutral), twist theexposed wires together clockwise,

and secure them with a UL-listedwire nut. Install a light bulb andtest the connection before install-ing the fixture. If theres no illumi-nation, you probably have a looseconnection, so try again. Once thelight functions, add some extraconnection protection by wrappingelectricians tape around the wirenuts. If you havent yet installed the

mounting bracket, then screw it tothe junction box. Then screw thethreaded mounting stem on thechain solidly into the mountingbracket. Finally, cover the junctionbox with the cover or canopy and secure it in place with thelocknut included with your light fixture. Thats all it takes for a contem-

porary lighting update to your interior dcor.

Editors Note: Special thanks to Progress Lighting for supporting this project. Visitwww.progresslighting.com.

The fixture shown is a four-lightchandelier from Progress Lighting,featuring an antique bronze finishand etched watermark glass.


Ceiling fixtures come in manyshapes and sizes. This funkyglobe-shaped fixture has a floralglass design that casts a warm,mottled light pattern throughoutthe foyer at night.

EHT

The final step is to install the glass and light bulbs. Balance the light output by using lower wattage bulbs for fixtures with several sockets, and using higher wattage bulbs for fixtures with fewer sockets.


RTA12 & RTR12 ROTARY TILLERSThe RTA12 & RTR12 Series Rotary Tillers from Land Pridetill soil for seedbed and planting preparation withapplications in landscaping, gardens and residential areas. Theyre adapted for 15- to 50-horsepower tractorswith Category I three-point hitch mounting, 540-rpm PTO speed and are Quick-Hitch adaptable. The offsetcapabilities allow the tiller to work closer to objects such as fence lines, buildings or trees. Operators can control the tilling depth with the adjustable skid shoes.A 15-in. rotor swing turns the soil over faster, andenables deep tilling action. The reverse rotation tillers(RTR12 Series) tend to achieve greater depth penetra-tion, resulting in moving and pulverizing more soil as well as burying more of the residue in the soil. The RTA12 and RTR12 are most popular for compact tractors. Visit landpride.com.


HOTPRODUCTS

WILTON ROAD-READY ALL TERRAIN VISENot every job presents ideal work conditions, whichis why Wilton developed the ATV (All Terrain Vise).When work has to get done, the go-anywhere ATVhelps transform pickup trucks, utility trucks andSUVs with 2-in. hitches into instant workstations. Atthe jobsite or in the shop, the innovative Wilton ATVis a combination vise and sleeve that slides into astandard 2-in. receiver without interfering with thetailgate. A patented mounting bracket (provided)also converts the ATV into a bench vise whenattached to a workbench, trailer or other stable work surface. The ATV is ideal for vehicles used inconstruction, farm and ranch, automotive, marine or those dedicated to outdoor and off-road activities.The mobile vise is great for most bending and cut-ting operations. Its also handy for fence, building

and parts repairs, and other work-holding projects. The 33-lb. portable, multi-use vise is constructed ofhigh-strength, ductile cast iron, powder-coated steel rated to 60,000 psi. The ATV also features a patented360-deg. locking handle. When driving, a spring-loaded hub secures the handle and keeps it in an uprightposition. Visit www.wiltontools.com.

HotProductsEDIT_Layout 1 6/3/14 1:23 PM Page 54

WESTBURY ALUMINUM DRINK RAILThe new Westbury Aluminum Drink Rail from Digger Specialties, Inc. comes individually sleeved as a kit, withone rail and screws included, so it's easier to stock and handle for Lumber Dealers. The Drink Rail is available in 74- and 98-in. lengths and a width of 3-1/4 inch. The pre-drilled rail has solid aluminum wall construction for strength and durability and can support wood or composite deck boards. It easily installs on the Westbury

C-Series Crossover Post System. DSI offers the Drink Rail in their 12 standard colors: Satin Black,Black Fine Texture, Ninety Bronze, Bronze FineTexture, White Fine Texture, Gloss Beige, GlossWhite, Speckled Walnut, Sandy Shore, Clay,Chocolate and Silver. The colors are AAMA 2604 as standard, or you can upgrade to AAMA 2605 powder coating. Visit www.westburyrailing.com


WORX AEROCARTAny weekend warrior who has used a conventional wheelbarrow knowsthey're heavy, bulky and hard to balance and maneuver, especially overuneven terrain. Not so with the new WORX AeroCart. When in wheelbar-row configuration, AeroCarts patented design concentrates the centerof gravity over two oversized, flat-free tires for a load that's easier to liftand manage. In fact, tests have shown that AeroCart makes lifting 200lbs. feel like 17 lbs. AeroCarts balanced, dual-wheel construction elimi-nates side-to-side tipping and weaving, which often leads to spilledloads and muscle strain. AeroCart lightens the load when moving loosetopsoil, gravel, sand, rocks, firewood, debris and other heavy loads. Butthats just the beginning of its versatility. Pull the release knob on theside of the cart and fold up the legs until they lock. Then fold down thefront dolly plate, and AeroCart transforms into a hand truck. UseAeroCart in hand truck mode to move items up to 300 lbs. The narrow 22-inch width easily navigates standard doorways and fence gates. Drop-down extension arms convert the cart into an extended dolly for transporting bags of mulch, fertilizer, potting soil or logs weighing up to 80 lbs. Visit www.worx.com.



HOTFIFTHROOM.COM OFFERS ILUMA OUTDOOR STRUCTURE LIGHTING FROM I-LIGHTINGFifthroom.com expands its online specialty marketplace for landscape structures with the addition ofiluma Outdoor Structure Lighting from i-lighting, a leading manufacturer of easy-to-install, reliable andcost-effective LED lighting. The new iluma Outdoor Structure Lighting system features the companysproprietary Easy Plug connection technology and dimmer system that will combine with Fifthroom.comsextensive line of landscape structures, ranging from gazebos and pergolas to garden bridges and

arbors. The new lighting option brightensthe mood and adds ambiance to any exteri-or location. The iluma system can be usedboth indoors and outdoors, available witheither clear white or warm yellow LEDs andin stock lengths or customized lengths tomeet contractor requirements. It also worksequally well with vinyl, aluminum, compositeand wood railing, creating nearly invisibledownlighting effects. The systems sleek5mm design is also available for 4-, 6-, and8-ft. kits and can be customized to meetuser requests. Visit www.fifthroom.com.

PRODUCTS

HITACHI DS18DGL DRIVER/DRILLHitachi Power Tools' new 18V Lithium Ion model DS18DGL Driver/Drill features the company's signatureergonomic design to make it extremely well-balanced and comfortable for extended use. It's also coveredby Hitachis Lifetime Lithium Ion tool warranty and 2-year Lithium Ion battery warranty. The DS18DGL ispowered by a Lithium Ion slide-type battery for fade-free preformance, less weight and three times the totalbattery life of traditional Ni-Cd batteries. The DS18DGL driver/drill delivers 400 in/lbs of torque to powerthrough tough jobs. A 22+1 clutch delivers 22 torque settings, and a drill mode for ultimate precision andcontrol. The two-speed gear setting allows the user to match the appropriate speed to the application, and the 1/2-in. keyless chuck is ideal for quick and simple bit replacements. Also, an LED light points upwards from the base of the tool to illuminate the bit, and a variable speed trigger helps to provide complete control during operation. Compact and lightweight at just 3.7 lbs., the DS18DGL reduces fatigue in extended or overhead use applications. Visit www.hitachipowertools.com.


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HOTFYPON GARAGE DOOR DCORTo add pizzazz to the exterior of your garage door, the experts at Fypon recommend you install decorativeurethane trim pieces, such as mouldings, crossheads, pediments and keystones to the garage door sur-round. The first basic element is to surround the entire garage door entry with weather-resistant urethanemoulding or PVC trim. The pieces are easy to cut and install, plus they resist insect infestations, warping,

splitting and humidity. Urethane prod-ucts come with a pre-primed surfacethat is ready to paint or stain, so nosanding or additional priming is neededbefore installation. PVC trim pieces donot need to be painted. As an option tomoulding and trim, more detailedpilasters, which stand vertically toframe out an entry door, add dimensionand beauty to the sides of the garageentryway. After installing these, you canlook at the top of the garage entrance.Crosshead trim comes in lengths up to 207 inches to accommodate largegarage openings. Or, you can order two smaller pieces, install them side-by-side and cover the gap with a keystone decorative element placed in the center. Visit www.fypon.com.

PRODUCTS

DEWALT METAL STORAGE SYSTEMSThe two new DeWalt products include a 36-in. 6-Drawer TopChest (DWMT73678) and a 36-in. 5-Drawer Roller Cabinet(DWMT73679). Combined, the Top Chest and Roller Cabinetdeliver up to 1,400-lb. load capacity. DeWalt has built therolling storage systems to feature auto-return closing draw-ers, 100-lb. capacity ball bearing drawers, 200-lb. capacityextra deep bottom drawer, and fully extendable drawers. Thepull-out drawers are deep and large enough to store andorganize an array of large tools. The top lid design providesenough clearance to allow a 20-volt DeWalt drill to standwith the lid closed. Knockouts in the back of the top lidallow power cords to run inside for battery charging, with the lid closed and locked. Top and bottom keys are includedfor an internal locking mechanism with breakaway keys.Heavy-duty casters offer durability and easy movement. Visit www.dewalt.com.


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Extreme How-To Summer 2014

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