With its perfectly preserved medievalOld Town, towering church spires andcharming cobbled streets, Tallinn hasevery reason to bask in the limelightas European Capital of Culture 2011.What I hadn’t banked on was actually

becoming one of the many head-turning sights.As our guide Kristina urged us to pedal faster, and the

“conference bike” gathered speed, curious Estonian driv-ers slowed down to take a look and bemused touriststurned their cameras from architectural gems tofocus on our novel mode of transport. While walk-ing is the best way to discover Tallinn at leisure, the

circular bikes made for seven illustrate that this is no citystuck in a time-warp and it’s easy to combine historywith a decidedly different experience.

After cycling past the wood-boarded houses of theKalamaja neighbourhood to the coastline that was out ofbounds to citizens under Soviet occupation, we reluc-tantly turned for home, wishing we’d signed up for the32 euro one-hour tour. We’d opted for 30 minutes basedon pre-ride nerves that were quickly dispelled withKristina firmly in charge of the steering – and brakes.

Tallinn’s focal point is the Old Town square, a greatplace to start a city tour. The town hall is a Gothicmasterpiece and the main sights are within walking

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With a host of special events to celebrate its status as European Capital of Culture, this is the yearto visit historic Tallinn. Jeannine Williamson gets on a bicycle made for seven to take a tour

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! Tallinn old townVisit Estonia/Jaak Kadak

Balticsculture club

distance, including the fortified city walls, soaringchurches and unique attractions such as the Town HallPharmacy with ancient lotions and potions on display.

After stopping for coffee in one of the many cafeslining the square, we set off to Toompea, once thepreserve of the city’s aristocracy and home to the presi-dent’s residence and parliament building. It’s well worththe walk to the Patkuli viewing platform overlooking thestunning UNESCO-listed OldTown and we stopped for abreather at the Cathedral ofSt Mary, where countlesscoats of arms adorn thewhite walls.

festivalsSpring is the start of themain tourist season andmidsummer, with up to 18hours of daylight in June, isanother popular time to visit and also a good time toenjoy some of Tallinn’s many festivals.

One of the biggest celebrations takes place at thebeginning of June. Old Town Days is a week-long streetparty packed with medieval characters, musicians,dancers and entertainers. In July there’s Beer Summer(www.ollesummer.ee), the largest outdoor festival in theBaltics. Despite its name it actually incorporates a hugemusic festival, albeit with plenty of beer on the side.

By the end of October things quieten down. But if

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10 things to do in tallinn" Head up Toompea hill for panoramic views of the Old Town. " Visit ornate Alexander Nevksy Cathedral, an onion-domed reminder of

Estonia’s Russian links." Stroll along quaint St Catherine’s Passage with its colourful craft shops." Discover medieval remedies in the Town Hall Pharmacy, Europe’s

oldest chemist shop." Explore the revitalised Rotermann Quarter with its modern cafes, shops and

bars." Take to the streets for an unforgettable sightseeing tour on a bicycle made for

seven (www.citybike.ee)." See classical and modern art in the striking Kumu building, Estonia’s first

purpose-built museum (www.ekm.ee)." Admire beautiful interiors at 18th century Kadriorg Palace, built by Peter the

Great (also www.ekm.ee). " Visit landmark St Olav’s Church which was once the world’s tallest building." Relax with a beer or two in one of Tallinn’s many bars.

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! Tallinn city walls

! Tallinn Medieval market! Olde Hansa

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you don’t mind cold weather then winter is a magicaltime to visit, especially during Tallinn’s Christmasmarket that starts in the last week of November.

After the cycling and walking, we had worked up anappetite and the next stop was Cafe Moon(www.kohvikmoon.ee) in the Vorgu district. Farremoved from your average cafe, talented Tallinn chefRoman Zashterinski has teamed up with two fellowchefs to serve fantastic food worthy of a designer restau-rant but in an informal setting. Although Estonia wavedgoodbye to its kroon and joined the eurozone at thebeginning of the year, it’s still an inexpensive destinationfor UK visitors.

My borscht soup with beef was three euros and themain course of duck in a honey lemon sauce wasunder 10 euros, a fraction of what you’d pay for simi-lar food at home.

shoppingWhen it’s time for shopping check out the Rotermannquarter (www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee), whereold industrial buildings have gained a sophisticatednew lease of life and rub shoulders with strikingmodern architecture. Loovala is an open-plan craftstudio and the place to find unusual gifts, accessories,art and jewellery – although getting a rocking chairmade of bricks back on the plane is probably a souvenirtoo far! Bright hand-made knitwear and butter knivesand bowls made from sweetly-scented juniper woodmake excellent and more portable gifts.

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beyond tallinnTallinn may be the undeniable jewel in Estonia’s crown, but the city is surroundedby beautiful countryside leading to the western islands, famous for their spas. Twin-centre holidays are available or day excursions can be booked in Tallinn.

A popular trip combines Lahemaa National Park, 30 miles east of Tallinn, and oldfishing villages on the northern coast. The eight-hour excursion costs around 50euros per person. Alternatively a 12-hour day trip, from 125 euros, takes visitors tothe beautiful western isles of Muhu and Saaremaa.

A two-hour drive through densely-forested countryside leads to the resort town ofHaapsalu, lined with quaint wooden houses. An hour from there

is Virtsu, gateway for the 30-minute ferry ride to tiny Muhu,which is connected by causeway to neighbouring Saaremaa.

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Round the corner, and part of Rotermann, we discov-ered the equally fascinating Soviet TechnologyExhibition, which reinvents itself each spring and is onlyopen during the summer. Housed in a cavernous formergrain store, household appliances, motorbikes, foodpackaging, clothes, leisure items and industrial equip-ment are among the eclectic exhibits.

Teenagers will love things such as the conferencebike and these more off-beat attractions. However,Tallinn is not an obvious destination for younger chil-dren and is best suited to couples and groups of friends.

A big draw is its good value nightlife, much of itcentred in the Old Town, and we spent an entertainingevening at Olde Hansa (www.oldehansa.ee). Thecandlelit restaurant serves hearty medieval-style dishesincluding wild boar, elk and even bear, although someBrits might be reluctant to try the latter. Huge plates offood were interspersed with beer, wine and rather ques-tionable “medieval” shots served up by jovial staff inperiod attire. Set menus start at 35 euros a head, which ispricey for Tallinn but it’s a fun night out.

The many nearby watering holes include everythingfrom atmospheric wine vaults and cellars to karaoke,sports and 70s-style retro bars. Try Viru beer, whichcomes in distinctive tall bottles, and other local brews.

This year is a particularly exciting time to visit thesmallest Baltic state and one of northern Europe’s oldestcapitals. To celebrate its European title, Tallinn is hostingone of the biggest cultural events in Estonia’s history witha host of special exhibitions, festivals and attractions onthe theme, “Stories of the Seashore”, highlighting thelegends and inspiration the sea has given to generations ofEstonians. That said, there’s always plenty to see wheneveryou decide to visit and if you set off on a conference bikeyou’ll probably end up being the centre of attention.

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tallinn facts

From canoeing along part of the Mississippi to rounding upsheep in Iceland, Jeannine Williamson’s work as a freelance journalist takes her to well-known and remotedestinations around the globe.

when to goThe main season runs from April to October andsummer is pleasantly warm with long hours ofdaylight. Snow-covered Tallinn is beautiful inwintertime but it gets very cold.

getting thereEstonian Air (www.estonian-air.ee),easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair(www.ryanair.com) fly from London toTallinn.

accommodationFor a luxury hotel near the Old Town try historic Hotel Schlössle(www.schloesslehotel.com) or Swissotel Tallinn(www.swissotel.com/tallinn), which has a spa. On Saaremaa, themodern Go Spa hotel is by the sea (www.gospa.ee).

tour operatorsBaltic Holidays (www.balticholidays.com) features Tallinn shortbreaks, Estonia tours and spa holidays and Regent Holidays(www.regent-holidays.co.uk) offers city breaks and a Tallinn and

islands tour.

getting aroundThe best way to enjoy Tallinn is on foot.The Tallinn Card, available at the TouristInformation Centre and starting at !12for six hours, offers unlimited free public

transport.

tourist informationTallinn City Tourist Office: www.tourism.tallinn.eeVisit Estonia: www.visitestonia.com

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! Kadriorg Palace ! Medieval theme at the Olde Hansa restaurant

! St Catherine’s Passage

! Tallinn festival