ÉPERNAY NTERPROFESSIONNEL DU senses taste… · the idea with brio and originality. Serve...

What can you see?First learn to look at Champagnes… the nuances and

subtleties of their colours and the difference in the way they

sparkle tell you a great deal about their diversity.

What can you smell?Inhale, smell, smell again… this is the second step in your

journey of discovery. The aromas of Champagne create

bouquets you can learn to recognise.

What can you taste?Fleshy, smooth, delicate or complex, discover the dominant

character of your Champagne and the family it belongs to.

Define the Champagne’s spiritBe creative as well as a gourmet. When harmonising

Champagne with your imagination, you can create aperitifs,

lunches, gifts, buffets and special dinners.

Develop your sensesYou can become an expert taster through a few easy

exercises. You will learn the language of Champagne and

find it easy to fill in the tasting sheet. You will find that from

now on Champagne will no longer hold any secrets

for you.

The Champagne Notebook

Champagne Notebook

COMITÉ INTERPROFESSIONNEL DU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE

, RUE HENRI-MARTIN. ÉPERNAY. FRANCE

number

How to tasteChampagnewines

24 pages nº3 ang (two) planche 11/12/01 12:27 Page 2

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?Champagneand you…Perhaps it all goes back a long way.Perhaps you believe that you have alwaysknown, always loved Champagne andalready associate it with many occasions inyour life. But what sort of connoisseur areyou? Have you taken the time to look atthe colour of the Champagnes you areabout to drink? To smell them? To uncover the tastes on your palate? You don’t think about it? You daren’t? You find that it’s all too difficult? That thissort of ritual should be reserved to theinitiated? Yet Champagne is also a wine.So? So, things are simpler than youthought. As simple as the replies to thefollowing questions.

You probably make suchdistinctions instinctively.Similarly, when exploring theworld of Champagne, you useall your senses. This ChampagneNotebook will help you todiscover the diversity of aromas,tastes and nuances of colour indifferent Champagnes. So, finda quiet time and place alone orwith your friends, and simplyturn the page.

Are you ready?

With my eyes closed can I tell the difference between the aroma ofa rose and that of a violet?

Can I tell the difference betweenbutter and margarine?

Do all brands of bottled waters taste alike?

Can my eyes distinguish between white, yellow and pink gold?

Is my palate sensitive to the difference in texture of a bananaand a pineapple?

Can I tell when a loved one changes his or her perfume?

Prises de vues: Éric Cuvillier et Jacques de Marcillac/Packshot Denfert.Stylisme des prises de vues: Arlette Assoun.Illustrations des personnages: Agnès Audras.Toutes autres illustrations: Patrice Caumon.Page , , et : extrait de ®Vocabulaire des Champagnes “Les mots pour les dire”.Direction artistique: atelier Fabrizi.

Imprimé en Belgique, en juillet par Graphing Grafossart.ISSN n°-.

Directeur de la publication: André Enders.


Champagne’s visual palette offers many nuances of colour, from off-white with a trace of yellow to oldgold, from coral pink to salmon pink. Once you canreally start to tell them apart you enter a world whichis unique in its subtlety. Try to express the particuvokea whole range of sensations and associate one of themwith what you are experiencing.

What can you see?

green gold

old gold

yellow gold

straw

grey gold

Remember that theglass plays a veryimportant role in theeffervescence ofChampagne. If thebubbles seem todissipate in the glass,don’t assume that thewine is flat. Simplychange your glass.Then take a first sip,and shut your eyes,you’ll realise that theeffervescence is indeedthere, on your palate.

And the bubbles?Are they lively, delicate, plentiful?Do they form a pearl necklace on thesurface of the wine?Is this necklace discreet or intense?

salmon pink

coral pink


Champagne is a wine whosebouquet deserves your totalattention. So take your timefrom the first moment thatyour are inhaling its aromas.Inhale slowly, at length… andthen begin again. The bouquet

of Champagne can be dividedinto different categories. Does it

remind you of flowers or fruits, ofvegetables, of dried fruit, or somedelicacy ? Or do you detect many of these families at the same time?

Floral bouquet

What can you smell?

Bouquet of fresh fruit

Country bouquet

Epicurean bouquet

Bouquet of dried fruit


What can you taste?

Body

Heart

Spirit

Soul

A Champagnereveals its

personalitybest on the

palate. Dareto keep the

wine in your mouth for a

few moments and swirl it

around. Giveyourself the

time to allowthe full arrayof flavours to

develop.

As with anyother wine

you areinevitably leftwith a single

overridingimpression.Study thesefour imageswhich each

evoke a wholerange of

sensations ansassociate oneof them withwhat you areexperiencing.

Sprightliness, lightness, delicacy - these are the qualities of Champagnes with Spirit

Maturity, complexity, richness - these betoken Champagnes with Soul Harmony, warmth, smoothness - these are expressed by Champagnes with Heart

Structure, intensity - you are in the world of Champagnes with Body


enthusiasm

tenderness

intelligence

Brut Vintage, matureBrut Vintage, mature, dominated by Pinot NoirBrut Vintage, rosé, mature, dominated by Pinot NoirNV, Demi-sec, mature

Brut Vintage, Blanc de BlancsBrut Vintage, dominated by Chardonnay

Bruts, NV, Blanc de Noirs, young.Bruts, NV, rosés, dominated by Chardonnay, young.

rapture

charm

passion

romanticism

sensuality

union

Brut Vintage, Blanc de Noirs, opulentBrut Vintage, rosés dominated by the Pinot Noir or Pinot MeunierPrestige Cuvées, non-vintage maturePrestige Cuvées, dominated by Chardonnay, NV, mature

Brut NV, rosés, maturePrestige Cuvées, Vintage, matureBrut Vintage, opulent

Brut VintageBrut NV, matureBrut NV, young, dominated by Pinot MeunierBrut NV, young, dominated by Pinot NoirBrut NV, rosé, older, dominated by Pinot NoirNV, Demi-sec, young

Brut Vintage, Blanc de Blancs, matureBrut Vintage, Blanc de Blancs, opulent

Brut Vintage, rosé, dominated by black grapesBrut Vintage, opulent, dominated by black grapes

What have you found?Do not hesitate to retaste it if you are notsure. Different styles of Champagnescorrespond to these morespecific impressions:● Brut or demi-sec● Vintage or a blend of vintages● Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noirs or a blend of black and white grapesdominated by Chardonnay, by Pinot Noirand/or Pinot Meunier● Young, mature or opulent

To discover what style of Champagne youare drinking you can look at the label. Or you can get the information from yourwine merchant or from the Champagnefirm itself. If you are in a restaurant, askthe wine waiter. In this way you can findyour way amongst the many differenttypes of Champagne.

A final piece of advice: watch out, becauseChampagnes evolve over time, whetherthey are in the maker’s cellars, the winemerchant’s or your home. As a result theirposition on the tasting chart can alsochange.

Now try and define more preciselythe specific sensation that theChampagne you are tasting inspiresin you: charm, tenderness, sensuality.

HeartSoul

depending on the dominantimpression that it offers.

You have just discovered that yourChampagne is a member of one ofthe four families on the chart,

Body

mysticismPrestige CuvéesRare & older VintagesCollectors’Champagnes

Spirit


When you are sharinga meal to exchangeideas, make new friends ornegotiating a contract, youwill prefer the sort of savoryand inventive ideas thattoday’s restaurants offer tothose who work hard in theafternoons. Champagneswith Body are vinous, fullflavoured. They always please withoutoverpowering.

Menu

Warm foie gras on a bed of wildmushroomsGreen lentil salad with slicedpigeon breast

Cream of cauliflower with dicedlobsterBrochette of scallops with currysauce or Roasted sea bassFillet of duck with caramelisedonionsCheese platter including: Comté,Farmhouse Cantal, Tome deBrebis, Maroilles, Epoisses

Lime SouffléFrozen coffee and ButterscotchmousseRed fruit gratin with Champagnesabayon

If you cannot resist a moretraditional dessert, combine itwith a rounder, smoother,Champagne with Heart

Serve Champagne as an aperitif. A Champagne with Spirit makesan excellent choice because of its liveliness and sparkle, and carry throughthe idea with brio and originality. Serve unusual‘amuse-bouches’, witty canapés, and inventive snacks.

The

Spirit comes first

When served as an aperitifthe more robust andpowerful Champagnes withBody will make you feel liketurning these appetizers intoa small buffet or a real, ifimprovised meal.

For example:

Smoked breast of duck and black olivetapenade on toasted bread.

Smoked salmon roulade garnished witklobster mousse, parsley & basil.

Slice of foie gras on toasted brioche.

Shrimp cocktail canapé.

Cheddar cheese straws.

Wild salmon croustade.

Warm oysters in the shell topped withcaviar.

Mini lamb skewers with fresh mint.

A light lunchkeeps the

bodyclear


A gift with

Soul Everyone has family celebrations, good feelingsand good news to share. Gather around with your lovedones, choose a few bottles of Champagne with Heart,tender, heartwarming intense and harmonious. Serve themtogether with an exciting buffet. Don’t hesitate to be inventivewhen presenting the food.

You don’t want to arrive empty-handed at a dinner orparty. A Champagne with Soul, with its unique background,adds a special quality - soulfulness - to your gesture. Some Champagne Houses and Growers have created beautiful giftboxes and you can design a charming and original way to wrap

your present in paperor fine tissue.

And remember thebottle should be chilled!

A perfect touch would beto present the bottle with

two elegant Champagne flutesor perhaps macaroons,

foie gras, oysters or even sushi,depending on your host’s

personality.

Think about pink Champagnes for your mostromantic celebrations and vintageChampagnes for birthdays and anniversaries.

Cherry tomatoes stuffed with fresh herb cheese.Quail eggs with mayonnaise.Parma ham on bread sticks.Lobster terrine.Triangles of aged Comtécheese sprinkled withthyme.Baby auberginesstuffed withvegetable mousse.Cheese puffed pastries.Courgette and black olivemousse on toast.Chicken skewers with peanut sauce.Mini new potatoes stuffed with sour cream & salmon roe.

French beans wrapped in Serranoham.

Anchovy straws.Fresh Crab on toastedbrioche.

If you are by the seaside a buffetof fish and seafood marriesbeautifully with the freshness ofChampagnes with Spirit. Ifyou’re in the country, an array oflocal vegetables and patés willprovide an appropriateaccompaniment to Champagnes

with Body.

Heartfelt and

harmonious


It’s an important dinner. You’vethought of everything, but haveyou thought that this could be anextraordinary party? First of all plan to

serve not one but many Champagnes. Welcome your guests with aChampagne with Soul. With the appetizers offer an elegantChampagne with Spirit. With the main course serve aChampagne with Body, and with the dessert turn to aChampagne with Heart. As far as the menu is concerned all youneed is a bit of imagination to transform a few classic recipes into a simply splendid feast!

A major

eventthin slices of potatoes, layer themlike scales on the buttered fish,and leave them salted, pepperedand chilled for ten minutes,before baking it in a very hotoven.

Overture.Starting with thecomplexity and the

richness provided by aChampagne with Soulwould surprise your guests.So would hors d’œuvreslike canapés of foie graslightly grilled and seasonedwith sea salt and pepper.Quail eggs with tomato,shallots, fresh cream andpepper is another deliciousidea.

Second act.The heart of the meal consistsof a main course of fish or meatwhich is beautifully matchedwith the power and vinosity ofa Champagne with Body.Dress up a leg of lamb with a

sauce made up of a tablespoonfuleach of soy sauce, honey, cinnamon,pepper and saffron before roastingit. Baste it a second time half waythrough cooking. Clothe your fish -which can be sea bass, red snappers,halibut or salmon- in festive paper-

First act.A zesty and delightfullylight Champagne withSpirit lends panache to

a platter of grilled crayfish.Or serve them with softboiled eggs garnished withcaviare, truffle purée orthin strips of marinatedsalmon. Simplicitybecomes an art form!

Finale.Accompany the fourth

moment ofthe evening

with a fourthChampagne. This time

a round and tenderChampagne with Heartwill transform the

simplest desserts into amemorable finale. A few

suggestions: poach pears fortwenty minutes in a mixture of alitre of sugar syrup and the juiceof half a lemon. After they havecooled, cut and drain the pearsand sauté them with saltedbutter. Serve them with a goodvanilla toffee or gingerbread ice-cream, accompanied with over-warm slices of sponge cakecoated with fresh cream.


Develop your sensesSight, smell, taste… discovering the diversity ofChampagnes involves all your senses. You can train and tuneup your senses -as you do with your muscles - with a little bitof practice.Here are a few exercises to refine your capacity to see, smelland taste. You will soon notice an extra dimension added tothe pleasure of tasting Champagnes.

Exercise your sense of sight

. First learn to observeeffervescence: pour

different sparkling drinks(mineral waters with differentdegrees of carbonation, beers,sodas, etc.) into identical, clearglasses set against a whitebackground. All the bubblesare not the same. Their size,their speed, their quantity, themousse on the surface, all varyfrom glass to glass.. Next, assess the visualquality of each liquid: is itbright, glittering, shiny, or dull?. Now look at the colour:pour two or three differentfruit syrups (like peach, lemonor apricot) into different glassesof carbonated water, withdifferent degrees of

Stimulate your sense of smell. Try to memorisearomas by exercising for a

few moments every day.Proceed step by step bychoosing one, then two, thenseveral ingredients - accordingto your timetable and theiravailability - that you submit toyour sense of smell . To work! You must learnin succession to smell:Floral aromas (lime blossom,violet, orange blossom,hawthorn)Fruity aromas (citrus: lemon,grapefruit; yellow fruit:peach, apricot. Thenapples, pears. Exoticfruit: lychees, mango;red fruit: raspberry, strawberry,cherry etc.)Vegetal aromas (fresh almonds,

cut grass, mossy underbrush,truffle)Dried fruit aromas(hazelnuts, raisins, driedfigs)Epicurean aromas (brioche,vanilla, butter, toast, honey,gingerbread, candied fruit). Learn to recognise themwith your eyes closed. In amatter of weeks you will noticethat your memory of scents hasdeveloped to include dozens ofaromas.

Sharpen your sense of taste. Identify flavours:saltiness, sweetness,

acidity, bitterness can berecognised by tasting salt,sugar, lemon juice andunsweetened cocoa.. Detect the aromas: put inyour mouth the edibleingredients whose scents youcan now identify with youreyes closed. Now you can taste

their aromas. They travel fromthe back of the palate to thenose, so you then experienceagain in the mouth thesensations originally perceivedthrough the nose (a phenomenon known asretro-olefaction) Try thisexperiment to convinceyourself; take a glass of mintsyrup and smell it.

concentration. Then try to findthe most appropriate word todescribe the colour ineach glass. Later on,when you do thisexercise withChampagne, you willdiscover how much thevariation in colour tells youabout the personality of eachwine.


You recognise its smell. Drinkit and your tonguewill experience asweet taste followedby the aroma ofmint. Try thisexperiment again while holdingyour nose; you will notice thatonly the sweet taste remains.. Finish with a ‘blind tasting’

Learn to recognise thedominant impression

The sum total of all thesensations creates a finalimpression on your palate.Normally this falls into one offour categories:

. Power and intensity: Inthis case the wine’scharacteristics are very’forward’ and very physical.

are intermingled.Look, taste, smell, differentlyYour senses evolve the wholetime. Take advantage of everyopportunity. Proceed at yourown rhythm and pace,

according to what yourdiscoveries are. You will findthat your perceptions willimprove and your vision ofChampagne will betransformed.

The art and the style of

tasting Champagne

The pages ’Developyour senses’ werecarried out with thehelp of Arlette Buisseof CNAC

(the NationalCouncil of CulinaryArts).

Choose a bottle of yourfour favouriteChampagnes. Plunge it into a bucket filledwith water and ice for half-a-hour or place it on itsr side inyour refrigerator for fourhours. Find a moment when yourpalate is fresh and free fromall other tastes and flavours.The ideal moment is at theend of the morning althoughthe early evening is also anappropriate time. The exercise requires a calmand concentrated atmosphereand is not suited to a noisycrowd.Pick a well-lit space or roombut avoid coloured lightingand overly bright or colourfulsurroundings. Set up thebottle and glasses on a white

tablecloth and look at yourglass against a whitebackground.Prohibit the use of roomfreshener, scented candles,perfumes and tobacco. Theirscents would intrude on thetasting.The ideal tasting is done’blind’. The label of theChampagne is covered bywrapping the bottle in clothor kitchen foil. This avoidspreconceptions andeveryone’s attention will befocused exclusively on thecontents of the bottles.Use identical, tulip-shapedglasses that are sufficiently tallto give ample room for thebubbles and the wine’saromas to unfold.The glasses should previouslyhave been rinsed in warm

water and allowed to air dry.Detergents and drying clothscoat the glass and can impedethe formation of theChampagne’s mousse andbubbles. In most cases, theabsence of effervescence isdue to the glass. If thishappens, simply changeglasses.

You are now ready to serveeach Champagne. Fill theglass half full to allow it tobreathe.

To help you further in yourtasting, take a look at thefollowing tasting sheet anduse it as a step-by-step guide.

Champagnes with Body fallinto this category. To learn howto feel this strength, payattention to the sensationassociated with tastingauthentic Swiss cheeses, game,stews, etc.. Smoothness. Tastewhipped cream or pancakebatter. You will experience thesame creaminess and mellowquality in Champagnes withHeart.. Sprightliness. Create thisfeeling by squeezing a lemon

into lightly carbonatedwater. This is the dominantcharacteristic found in ayoung and fresh wine with

good acidity or in the firstimpression left by Champagneswith Spirit.. Complexity. Some wines,Champagnes with Soulamongst them, have so manyaromas and tastes that theindividual elements cannot bedistinguished. A similarexperience can beobtained by tasting arich broth where theflavours of meats,vegetables, spices and aromatics


ViewTo view your Champagneproperly, choose a well-lit roomand examine the glass againsta white background.

What colour is it?

❍ pale gold❍ green gold❍ grey gold❍ straw yellow❍ yellow gold❍ antique gold

❍ coral pink❍ salmon pink❍ deep pink

❍ ❍

Appearance?

❍ limpid❍ sparkling❍ silky

❍ ❍

What are the bubbleslike?

❍ light❍ fine❍ lively❍ plentiful❍ slow

❍ ❍

Do they form anecklace?

❍ discreet❍ intense

❍ ❍

On the noseFirst identify individual ortypes of aromas on yournose. You will repeat thisexercise when the wine isactually in your mouth.

❍ Floral:

❍ wild rose❍ lime blossom❍ orange blossom❍ violet

❍ ❍

❍ Fruity:

❍ citrus❍ apples, pears, quince etc.❍ peaches, apricotsnectarines etc. ❍ exotic fruit (mango,banana, lychee, coconutetc.)❍ red fruit (berries,cherries, currants etc.)

❍ ❍

❍ Epicurean:

❍ fresh butter❍ brioche❍ toast❍ honey❍ candied fruit❍ vanilla❍ spices

❍ ❍

PalateFirst identify individual ortypes of aromas on yournose. You will repeat thisexercise when the wine isactually in your mouth.

What does it feel like?

❍ powerful❍ solid❍ comforting❍ smooth❍ sprightly❍ light❍ mature❍ opulent

❍ ❍

What are the aromaslike?

Go back to the column ofaromas to confirm and addto your previousimpressions.

Finally, after you havedrunk this Champagne,how would youdescribe it?

❍ fleshy❍ creamy❍ délicate❍ complex

❍ ❍

The words to describe the wine

Use this tastingsheet to guideyou as youtaste thedifferent wines.Mark the wordswhich, in youropinion, best matchthe wines you aredrinking andsupplement yourdescription withother words of yourchoice.

Photocopy this sheetso that you can use itagain.

Tasting sheet

When and where wouldbe the idealcircumstances to drinkthis Champagne?

❍ picnic❍ business lunch❍ family celebrations❍ cocktail❍ gourmet lunch❍ special occasion❍ important dinner party

❍ ❍

À quelles ambiances età quels états d’espritcorrespond-il le mieux?

❍ convivial❍ epicurean❍ welcoming❍ sentimental❍ refined❍ whimsical❍ sumptuous❍ magical

❍ ❍

Whith what food wouldyou match thisChampagne?

❍ chicken terrine❍ foie gras canapé ❍ miniature quiche❍ crab brioche❍ marinated salmon❍ slivers of dried meat❍ warm oysters

❍ ❍

Main course?

❍ veal stew❍ venison❍ duck confit❍ trout with almonds❍ beef carpaccio withparmesan❍ roasted sea bass❍ braised capon

❍ ❍

Dessert?

❍ red fruit tart❍ grapefuit mousse ❍ apricot and peachCharlotte❍ raspberry soufflé❍ apple pie andcinammon ice-cream❍ butterscotch ice-creamwith whipped cream❍ rice pudding and crèmefraîche sorbet❍ pear & liquorice tart

❍ ❍

What is your overall impression of this Champagne?Indicate its position on the chart.

Soul

❍

❍ ❍ ❍ ❍

❍ ❍

❍

❍

❍

❍

❍

❍

❍ ❍

❍

❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍

❍ ❍

On

the

nose

Pala

te

Body Spirit

Heart

sensualitycharm

romanticismpassion

rapture enthusiasm

tendernessunion

mysticism

intelligence


ÉPERNAY NTERPROFESSIONNEL DU senses taste… · the idea with brio and originality. Serve...

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Transcript of ÉPERNAY NTERPROFESSIONNEL DU senses taste… · the idea with brio and originality. Serve...