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Via Ferrata2012

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UniqUE & REliablE

innoVation

Cable Vario: Via ferratas are becoming more and more popular. Including for fa milies with children. Via ferrata sets have a shock absorber to prevent falls and minimize the risk of injury. Controlled bra-king (of the person falling) significantly reduces the fall factor and the resulting impact force on the body and anchor point.The current safety standard (EN 958) on via ferrata sets requires that they must withstand a 5 m fall with a weight of 80 kg and a maximum impact force of 6 kN. The maximum braking distance may not exceed 1.2 m.Research using test dummies has shown that shock absorbers designed in accordance with EN 958 have braking distances of only a few centimetres when used by lighter persons weighing 30 kg (Fig 1). This

OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe ope-ning of the gate is ensured with pushing the palm latch, preventing pinched fingers in the gate.

means that these via ferrata sets provide virtually no dynamic shock absorption, and cause substantial impact forces, which could be particularly dan-gerous for children or lighter users (Fig 2).The EDELRID Cable Vario has a solution to this de-sign problem. The Cable Vario is the first ever via ferrata set with braking resistance that can be adju-sted according to the weight of the user. The Cable Vario’s core component is the newly developed and patented Variobrake. It allows braking resistance to be individually adjusted according to the user’s weight, similar to the Z-Value or release setting for ski bindings.The advantage is clear: a via ferrata set that can be adjusted to suit all users. It ensures a braking di-stance of 1.2 m and minimizes impact force for

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Patented Variobrake: The first ever via ferrata set where braking resistance can be adjusted according to user weight.

Elastic webbing: Keeps ends as short and compact as possible at all times.

Distance [cm]

Distance [cm]

Distance [cm]

Force [kN]

Force [kN]

Accelaration [g]

children and lighter users (Fig. 3). Serious injuries caused by non-triggered energy absorbing systems is avoided. With the Cable Vario, EDELRID is once again setting new standards for via ferrata safety.The Cable Vario naturally includes tried and trusted EDELRID technology, such as our patented One-Touch carabiners. Together with the elasticated webbing they ensure good handling when clipping or unclipping. The Cable Vario is a compact via ferrata set with “state of the art” safety features.

Fig. 3: EDELRID Cable Vario: braking distances with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.

Fig. 1: Conventional via ferrata set: braking distances with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.

Fig. 2: Conventional Via Ferrata Set: Accelaration with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.

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“The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal be-lay safety set to bring up children or begin-ners over steep or strenuous sections of a via ferrata.“

Christof Schellhammer, mountain and- ski guide

Unlike sport climbing, a fall on a via ferrata often leads to serious injury. This is why falling during a via ferrata should be avoided at all costs. The via ferrata set only acts as “life insurance”. The German Alpine Club recommends that children and inexperienced persons should be belayed by the leader on vertical and difficult sections (cf. Berg und Steigen 02/11, p.5). This assumes that the lead climber has exten-sive rope technique expertise and considerable be-laying experience. EDELRID developed the Via Ferra-ta Belay Kit in response to this issue. The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal belay safety set to bring up children or beginners over steep or strenuous sec-tions of a via ferrata. It consists of a belay plate with automatic self-braking and a 15-m single rope with a sewn termination at both ends It comes in a practi-cal packsack and stows easily into any rucksack.

experttips & tRicks

Via FERRata bElay kit

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How to use the Via Ferrata Belay Kit

1. Preparation: At the start of the roped section, the person to be belayed clips themselves into the sewn rope termination with one of the carabiners of their via ferrata set. The rope end terminations have different colours for an easy overview. The other ca-rabiner remains on the safety cable. The lead clim-ber then connects the green loop of the belay plate (person to be belayed clips into blue rope end termi-nation) or the blue loop of the belay plate (person to be belayed clips into green rope end termination), to their harness and then starts to climb. During clim-bing the rope runs from out of the packsack, which the lead climber attaches to the harness with a cara-biner.

2. Self protection for the lead climber: Once the top of the section is reached, or once the end of the rope is reached, the lead climber sets up his or her own protection. To do this, they connect them-selves to a safety cable anchor or ladder rung and then allows the ends to take the strain (Important: both ends must always be clipped). Alternatively a rest sling may be used (if available).

Setting up the belay: The lead climber now at-taches the blue loop of the belay plate (the person to be belayed will be on the blue end of rope) or the green loop of the belay plate (the person to be bela-yed will be on the green end of rope) into the carabi-ner at the end of his via ferrata set that is not under tension.

4. Belaying: The person being belayed starts clim-bing once notified by the lead climber. The lead clim-ber belays them, taking the rope in through the belay plate. The remaining rope is fed back into the pack-sack. The lead climber should take care to ensure that the belay rope is always kept taut. The belay plate will automatically brake a fall. This means that serious falls and the associated risk of injury are eli-minated. Once the person being belayed has rea-ched the lead climber, the process can be repeated as many times as required until the section is com-pleted.

Tip: The belay kit should not be used all the time, as it is relatively time-consuming. On popular via ferra-tas this may cause a queue (and is unlikely to win you any friends). Instead, it’s better to select an ap-propriate route, so that you only need to use the Via Ferrata Belay Kit on particularly difficult sections.

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cable Vario

Patented Variobrake: The

first ever via ferrata set where

braking resistance can be adjusted

according to user weight.Elastic webbing: Keeps ends as short and compact as

possible at all times.

OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe opening of the gate is ensured

with pushing the palm latch, preventing

pinched fingers in the gate.

bEcaUsE WEight mattERs

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Cable Vario: The Cable Vario is the first ever via ferrata set with braking resistance that can be adju-sted according to the weight of the user, similar to the Z-Value for ski bindings. The Cable Vario natural-ly includes tried and trusted EDELRID technology such as OneTouch carabiners and the elasticated webbing.

Creed: You no longer have to choose between weight and comfort on alpine routes. Creed is an all-round harness with a laminated construction, adju-stable leg loops and protector at the tie-in point.

Via Ferrata Belay Kit: The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal belay safety set to bring up children or beginners on steep or technical sections of a via fer-rata. It consists of a belay plate with automatic self-braking and a 15 m single rope with sewn terminati-on at both ends.

Shield II: An ultralight and robust “soft shell” hel-met. Thanks to its innovative closure system the Shield II fits all sizes and guarantees outstanding sa-fety and comfort. Its large side vents prevent heat build-up and ensure a constant supply of fresh air on long alpine routes. With four robust head torch clips.

Cable Vario 560 g

Via Ferrata belay Kit 1000 g

Creed 380 g

Shield ii 280 g

Mirage 25 920 g

b-lay open 86 g

VaCuuM bottle 0,5l 320 g

total: 3546 g

Adventurestodays

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Via Ferrata

Up on the Jubiläumsgrat On August 17th, 2011, nine motivated mountai-

neers met up to cross the most spectacular high-al-pine arête in the Eastern Alps: the “Jubiläumsgrat”. The approximately 8-km long ridge between the Zug-spitze and the Alpspitze provides fantastic views over the Wetterstein Mountains.

The trip started in a relaxed manner. The first ca-ble car from Eibsee took us up to 2,963 metres. On the summit of the Zugspitze, we climbed over barrier and made our way to the gold cross, which marks the highest point in Germany. From now on in, con-centration is required. The ridge is pretty exposed in places, as we follow it up and down in the direction of the Alpspitze. On the way, there are sections of climbing up to grade III. Upon reaching the new bi-vouac hut, we stop and have a bite to eat. The wea-ther is particularly fine and everyone is in good sha-pe so there is no thought of leaving the ridge to descend to the Knorr mountain hut.

Our vanguard party reaches the Alpspitze cable car by 2:45 pm. This means that they can success-fully accomplish their mission to go back and coll-ect the two cars parked at the Eibsee cable car station and then drive them round over to the Os-terfelderkopf valley station. While this is going on the remaining climbers pose for our photogra-phers. At 16:00, the group gets to the Alpspitze station just in time to make the cable car and nar-rowly avoid having to walk back down into the val-ley.

By around 6:00 pm, the Zugspitze is behind us as we sit in the car on the way back home. We can feel the effects of the sun and hope to avoid fee-ling stiff and sore tomorrow. It has to be said that 90% of the team hoped in vain. Nevertheless, it was an unforgettable day in the heart of the Wet-terstein Mountains.

99 Christian Pfanzelt Photography

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cable comFort

OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe opening of the gate is ensured

with pushing the palm latch, preventing

pinched fingers in the gate.

noblEssE obligE

Integrated Swivel: Solves the problem of twisted ends

and kinked ropes.

Elastic webbing: Keeps

ends as short and compact as

possible at all times.

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Cable CoMFort 460 gJay 470 gZodiaC 380 gbb gloVe CloSe 75 gMirage 35 1000 gerSte hilFe Set 100 grope tooth 47 gtotal: 2532 g

Zodiac: The Zodiac is a lightweight and extremely stable hybrid helmet with an innovative closure sy-stem, large side vents and integrated head torch clips.

Cable Comfort: The classic EDELRID via ferrata set. The Cable Comfort has everything you would ex-pect from a high-end via ferrata set: OneTouch cara-biners, elasticated webbing, integrated swivel, com-pact tape energy absorber.

Mirage 25: A technical, alpine rucksack with remo-vable back plate and a raft of clever features: de-tachable lid compartment, integrated packing loop, variable compression system with Clip Fix buckles, ice tool attachment loops.

Jay: The Jay is the real all-arounder in the EDELRID collection. This harness features adjustable leg loops, flexible gear loops, positionable waist pad-ding and Hytrel®-Protector on the tie-in loop, which protects the webbing from abrasion.

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cable ultralight

Superlight Karabiner: With auto closing mechanism

reduces weight to a minimum.

lEss is moRE

Brake system: Closed frictionless brake system

works even when wet.

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Cable Ultralight 2.0: Very light and compact Via Ferrata set at just 285 grams this is one of the ligh-test and safest sets available. The Ultralight is so compact, it will fit easily in a jacket pocket.

Cable ultralight 285 g

loopo light 210 g

Shield ii 280 g

b-lay 86 g

helix 25 780 g

bento 70 140 g

total: 1781 g

B-Lay: Multipurpose gloves for Via Ferrata, bela-ying, rappelling and big walls. Made of soft calf lea-ther for a good grip. Available with or without finger-tips.

Helix 25: An ultra-light alpine rucksack for day-trips and fast & light ascents. Removable back plate; air-permeable shoulder straps; detachable waist belt and lid compartment; integrated packing loop and ice tool attachments.

Loopo Light: With a weight of only 210 g, the Loo-po Light is one of the lightest climbing harnesses on the market. It is perfect however for Via Ferrata, or as a spare harness fitting into almost any pocket. The fully breathable mesh provides unbeatable comfort.

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collectionoVERViEW

OVErVIEw VIA FErrATA SETS

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Cable Vario 560 Variobrake One Touch --- 30 - 80

Cable Comfort 2.0 460 Shock absorber One Touch 50 - 100

Cable Kit 4.0 415 Shock absorber One Touch --- 50 - 100

Cable Ultralight 2.0 285 Shock absorber Superlight --- 50 - 100

Cable Lite 2.0 440 Shock absorber Triton --- 50 - 100

Brenta Comfort 520 Rope brake Triton 50 - 100

Christian Pfanzelt Photography

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rECOMMENDED BELAy METHOD ACCOrDINg TO BODy wEIgHT AND PErFOrMANCE LEVEL

Cable Vario

Standard KSS

Cable Vario or

Standard KSS+

Via Ferrata Belay Kit

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KSS +

Via Ferrata Belay Kit

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KSS +

Via Ferrata Belay Kit

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EDElRiD I Achener Weg 66 I 88316 Isny Im Allgäu, germAny I Tel.+49 (0) 7562 981 - 0 I FAx +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100mAIl@edelrId.de I WWW.edelrId.de

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