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HILLBILLY ROCK (GPS = N39°58.790 W105°17.383)Approach: Hillbilly Rock is the obvious triangular fl atiron sitting on the grassy hillside to the right of the entrance into Skunk Canyon, and in front of Ridge One. Take the NCAR Trail and go right (north) on the Mesa Trail through several switchbacks to a wooden fence. Pick up the Upper Skunk Canyon Trail behind this fence and head 100 yards into the drainage to a point just left (west) of a rotten band of rock. Take a faint trail heading northwest up the grassy hillside to the base of Hillbilly Rock.

Descent: Either downclimb North Face or rappel 60ft down the north face from webbing around a chockstone. Bring 20ft of webbing for the latter option, as the anchor has a history of disappearing.

Bouldering: The Trail Rock and Bulge Boulder, with prob-lems up to V3, sit near the wooden fence off the Mesa Trail at the start of the Skunk Canyon Trail.

355. East Face Left 5.0 ★★★ 400ftThis is the longest route on Hillbilly. It fi rst ascends the low foot on the southeast corner of the formation, 140ft be-low the main east face. Climb this extra piece of rock to a ledge level with the east face and belay. Continue up the slab, staying near the left ridgeline, for two more pitches.FA: Gerry Roach

356. Jethro 5.4 R ★★ 300ftClimb the east face just left of center, following a large left-facing fl ake system. The sparsely-protected fl ake system ends before the top, and merges with the last few feet of the following route.FA: Guy Humphry, Dan Moore 2001

357. East Face Center 5.0 ★★ 300ftBegin in the middle of the east face, next to a large pine tree. Stay right of a large left-facing fl ake system and head straight up for the summit. If roping up for this route, three nice ledges provide good belay stances along the way.FA: Pat Ament, Larry Dalke 1961

358. East Face Right 5.0 ★★★ 300ftThis is one of the best slab routes in the Flatirons for a beginning leader to safely cut their teeth. Start at the northeast corner and follow an off-fi nger and tight-hands crack up the low-angle slab, staying left of the northeast ridge. Protection is bountiful and the exposure is mild along the ridge. There are also several comfy ledges to belay from.

359. North Face 5.2 60ftThis route is often used as the descent path from the sum-mit and otherwise would probably not be climbed. Begin directly below the summit on the far right (west) side of the north face and climb past a bulge and several large blocks to the top.

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360. West Face 5.12c ★★ 40ftWander 25ft uphill to the north from the following route. Stick clip the high fi rst bolt, then climb a seam, skipping the fi xed bashie to the bolt. Continue up the technical face to the anchor underneath a small roof.Gear: 3 bolts 2-bolt anchor

361. West Face Right 5.12c ★★ 55ftStart on the southwest corner in a left-facing dihedral. Optional nuts protect the easy runout to the high fi rst bolt. From there, angle up and left, staying on the left side of the arête to a sloping ledge with a hidden anchor.Gear: 4 bolts, nuts bolted anchor

362. Matt Tackett’s Gone Missing 5.6 R ★ 300ftLocate an obvious ramp/crack that angles up and right in the center of the south face. Work up the ramp for 60ft until the ramp cuts sharply back left. Pull the crux bulge just before the ramp abruptly changes directions. There is a slight runout here that could result in a ledge fall. Continue up and left on an easier ramp, staying below a small overhang that blocks access to the east face. Reach a ledge and belay (110ft). Traverse fi ve feet right at a point where it is easy to get onto the east face to follow East Face Left to the summit.FA: Jason Haas solo 2006

HILLBILLY FLATIRONETTESApproach: There are several large, low-angled ridges that orbit Hillbilly Rock as well as several large boulders along the south face. Most are not worth bothering with, but may merit an investigation if soloing other routes in the area.

363. HBF South Class 3 ★ 350ftLeft (south) of Hillbilly Rock are two narrow but long ribs of rock, each with a south ridge. Start at the base of the south ridge on the west formation and scramble/walk up the ridge to the top. Scramble off to the east, ending up next to the following route. Variation: Class 3 300ft Climb the south ridge of the east formation. There is more hiking and less climbing on this ridge.

364. HBF Front Boulder 5.6 ★ 30ftThere are three massive boulders along the south face of Hillbilly Rock. This is the front, eastmost boulder. Climb edges and fl akes up the burnt-red east face. Scramble off to the north.

365. HBF Middle Boulder 5.4 ★ 40ftDirectly behind the previous route is the middle boulder, which has a summit that overhangs to the west and has a large pine tree growing within a few feet of it. Climb a knife-edged fl ake/arête along the north ridge. Reverse the route to get down.

366. HBF East One Class 4 200ftThere is a small fl atironette 70ft in front of Hillbilly Rock to the east. There are two forgettable routes on it, with this one climbing the south ridge to the top. Step off to the north.

367. HBF East Two Class 3 100ftClimb the east face on the same formation as for the pre-vious route. Start on a smooth slab next to a black streak and angle up and right to the top.

THE HOBO (GPS = N39°58.792 W105°17.457)Approach: Hike past Hillbilly Rock along its north side and continue 50 yards uphill to the west.

Descent: Scramble down East Face.

368. East Face Class 3 ★★ 120ftAscend the center of the east face on large holds up a low-angled slab to a small summit.

369. Southwest Corner 5.4 R 70ftBegin just past the west face overhang on the south side. Climb up good face holds over a bulge and angle left to the top. This route has few protection opportunities.FA: The Satan’s Minions Soloing Club 2003

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RIDGE ONE ( LIKE HEAVEN)(GPS = N39°58.721 W105°17.316)Note: This is the only ridge of the four that is not affected by the raptor closures.

Approach: Ridge One forms the righthand entrance to Skunk Canyon and is reached by hiking the NCAR Trail to the Mesa Trail. Take the right (north) fork on the Mesa Trail through several switchbacks to a wooden fence just above the seasonal stream. Slip behind the fence and hike the climber’s Skunk Canyon Trail into the drainage. Ridge One will be the fi rst formidable hunk of rock on the right (north) side of the stream as the entrance into the canyon narrows.

370. Stairway to Heaven 5.3 ★★★ 1,200ftThere is a low-angled slab at the toe of the rock where it touches the stream at the southeast corner, which leads to a series of small overhangs. Climb the slab over the crux overhang (this can be avoided by moving further right) and third class it up the ridge past numerous ledges and trees to a point beside the Like Heaven summit. It is possible to step off to the east just past this summit, but for full value continue up to the summit of Heaven, which awaits further north. To descend from the highest summit, scramble down the north ridge for 60ft to a tree and rappel 40ft to the west. A ropeless alternative is to move down the north ridge for 30ft, then down a low fi fth class dihedral on the east face to reach the ground after 50ft.

371. The Guardian 5.12d ★★★ 60ftThis pumpy sport route ascends the severely overhanging southeast face just left of the start for the previous route. Climb a slab up to the face and try to hang on.Gear: 4 bolts bolted anchorFA: Dan McQuade, Bob Horan 1987

372. Army 5.9+ ★ 80ftBegin behind the small juniper at the base of Ariel. Step up to the large fl ake and traverse hard right all the way to a hand crack at the right (south) edge of the west face. A better start is to climb Armed Forces to the second bolt (5.10b) and then tra-verse straight right to the same hand crack. Jam up to a shelf on the southwest arête and then continue up the short south face to the top. A direct start is not advised due to poor rock quality.FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1975

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373. Armed Forces 5.11b ★★ 65ftThis is the only bolted route on the lower west face, located just left of the southwest corner. Scamper up an easy slab (optional nut placement) to the overhang. Clip a bolt before fi ring up overhanging pockets, which lead right to another bolt. From here, blast straight up jugs—but save some gas for the fi nish.Gear: 4 bolts, nut for start 2-bolt anchorFA: Dan Hare, Mike O’Donnell 1986

376. Casual Slabs 5.5 ★ 70ftBegin halfway between Ariel and Gunky on the broad, low-angled wall that forms a notch of sorts between the summit of Armed Forces and the Like Heaven summit. Find a faint crack system with a small tree growing out of a fl ake 20ft up and take it to a tree anchor on the crest. Numerous variations exist.

377. Gunky 5.11b ★ 170ftBegin directly below the large dihedral for Love, at two incut mail slots in a small overhang. Power up the boul-dery start to a hand jam, which leads to a ledge. Take a low-angled left-facing corner for a few feet until it is easy to traverse hard right on a narrow shelf/ledge with good holds above. Belay on the other side. Climb straight up the face and bridge a bombay chimney (hand-sized gear) in a right-facing dihedral just below the summit. Belay on gear and descend from the anchor above Love.FA: Scott Woodruff, Tim Beaman, Brad Gilbert 1975

378. Slot ( For Your Arms Only) 5.10a ★ 170ftBegin 40ft right of the start of Love and 10ft left of Gunky. Swing up reachy jugs past a fi xed pin to a ledge. Work up the Love dihedral for 30ft to a slightly overhang-ing section. Move up and right to a ledge (above the traverse on Gunky) and traverse hard right to the base of a large right-facing dihedral; belay here. Finish in the chimney as for Gunky. Variation: 5.9 ★ Avoid both the crux start and the long traverse by beginning further right, directly below the chimney. Climb straight up the face and merge with the normal route after 50ft.

379. Love 5.5 ★★★ 150ftBegin 50ft north of the massive left-facing dihedral which forms the left side of the Like Heaven tower. Step across a boulder to begin on jugs over a small overhang. Once established on the face, traverse right to the dihedral. Enjoy classic movement and exquisite stone in the corner to the top. Hit the ridge and continue up the arête to the right to chain anchors on the summit. Rappel the route to the west with double ropes.FA: Pat Ament, Mike VanLoon 1967

380. Better Than Love 5.5 ★★★ 130ftClimb the opening crux moves of Love to a ledge near the left-facing corner. From here, angle up and left on big jugs (somewhat reminiscent of those on Winky Woo) to the middle summit of Ridge One. To descend, scramble north down to a tree and rappel 75ft down the west face.FA: Gerry and Barbara Roach 1972

381. Party of One 5.10a ★★ 130ftLocate an overhanging offwidth 30ft left of Love. Climb jugs up a faint overhanging, left-facing corner to gain the crack. Worm up the easier crack, using a combination of chicken-wings and face holds to the summit. Rappel 75ft from a tree down and left.FA: Jim Erickson free solo 1978

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374. Arms Reduction 5.11b R ★ 65ftClimb to the fi rst bolt on Armed Forces, but when that route traverses right, continue up and slightly left towards a left-facing fl ake. Battle up the face with technical gear to the ridgeline. FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986

375. Ariel 5.8 R 70ftBegin next to a small juniper tree on a ledge that starts 30ft up and is 12ft left of the fi rst bolt on Armed Forces. Mount a large fl ake slightly right of a tree and then follow jug rails hard left until it’s easy to move straight up. Aim for the crest 20ft right of a large pine tree anchor.FA: Scott Woodruff, Sue Kent 1975Variation: Ariel Direct 5.10a R 60ft Climb Ariel through the start of the juggy leftward trending traverse until a point directly below a fi nger crack. Pull a diffi cult move over a bulge to gain the crack and continue straight up to the top.FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986

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382. In God We Trust 10c X ★★ 110ftMove 40ft left of a gully to a fi ve-foot-tall pedestal fl ake. Mantel onto the fl ake and balance up slanting rails to a nail-drive, deadhead bolt. Run it out to a slanting ledge as the face angle lessens. Get some gear and fi nish on the easy face above. Rap 75ft from a tree to the right.Gear: 1 bolt, SRFA: Eric Guokas, Rob Hering 1980

383. Boot Hill 5.8 X ★ 100ftStart next to a bush, 20ft left of the previous route, under a lichen-covered face. Climb an unprotected face up and right to a left-facing dihedral underneath the right end of the roof band. Pull through the right side and top out on the ridgeline above. Rap from a tree above the gully to the right.FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, Jim Michael 1975

384. Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d ★ 100ftBegin directly behind a pine tree that nearly touches the rock, 45ft right of Sidereal. Pull on crisp edges through an overhang to a pocket shaped like an upside-down heart. Move right behind the tree, then onto easier ground above. Climb a shallow right-facing fl ake to the face above.FA: Rick Accomazzo, Christian Griffi th 1981

385. Sidereal 5.10a X ★ 100ftStart 100ft right of the northwest corner, along the west face, on a built-up pedestal where the large overhang shortens in length. Pull through an overhang into a shallow left-facing nook. Traverse 40ft hard right to join the preceding route at a right-facing fl ake. The pins that protected the start of this route have fallen out.FA: Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975

RIDGE TWO ( SATAN’S SLAB) (GPS = N39°58.698 W105°17.391)Approach: Follow the same approach as for Ridge One into Skunk Canyon. Ridge Two sits 100ft behind Ridge One, to the west.

Descent: From the summit, traverse west through the base of the chimney splitting the summit block and then walk 30ft north along a ledge to hiking territory.

Bouldering: The Rasta Boulder, with a V4 and a V6, sits on the south side of the creek below Ridge Two.

386. Satan’s Slab 5.8 R ★★★ 950ftThis was the fi rst route put up in Skunk Canyon, as well as one of the best. It has runouts up to 5.7 but the short crux is well protected.P1: Start at the lowest point of the rock and scramble up a sloping ramp to belay.P2: Balance up the slab, belaying at a fi xed pin 30ft below a large roof.P3: Angle up and over the left side of the roof, follow an undercling crack back right, and then friction up the slab to belay near a small roof.P4: Climb around the left side of the second large roof and ascend the face near a fl aring crack to a ledge, where The Omen merges with this route.P5–7: Another pitch leads to the ridgeline and another couple pitches reach the fi nal summit tower. Get onto the east face and scramble to the top.Gear: 4 fi xed pins, SRFA: Layton Kor, Pat Ament 1963

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387. The Omen 5.7 R ★★★ 900ftClimb directly out of Skunk Canyon via the blunt arête im-mediately right of Satan’s Slab for 200ft, or skip this initial pitch by hiking up the gully below the east face. Friction up the slab (staying right of the two roofs on Satan’s Slab) and negotiate a crux bulge just below the level of the sec-ond roof of Satan’s Slab. Continue up the face, merging with Satan’s Slab at a ledge above its second roof.

388. Purgatory (East Face) 5.6 X ★★★ 750ftThis sustained and consistently runout slab begins 50ft right of The Omen at a wide, dark trough that doesn’t quite touch the ground. Climb to the trough and belay shortly thereafter. Continue up the unprotected channel and face to the crest of the ridge. Finish on Satan’s Slab. Gear: SR, optional #4 CamalotFA: David Bohn, Dave Hahn 1973

389. Enchanted Devil 5.4 R ★★ 700ftWhile the previous three routes are on the lowest and largest section of the east face, this route ascends the east face of the third section. The inobvious start is located directly west of Party of One on Ridge One. Climb up and left for 50ft to a large hole of sorts near where the separation between sections two and three becomes more distinct. Continue up along the southern edge of the east face to the ridge with house-size boulders. Fin-ish on Satan’s Slab or descend through a gully to the northwest.FA: Gerry Roach 1977

Variation: 5.4 R ★★ Instead of angling left toward the gully separating section three from two, climb the center of the face to the ridge.

390. 666 5.6 ★★★ 650ftMove uphill from the previous route to the highest (fourth) section. Ascend the left (south) arête of the east-face slab to a tree and belay. Continue along the arête belaying at several ledges along the way.FA: Richard Rossiter solo 1996

391. Wild Turkey 5.8 X ★ 240ftWhen approaching from the south, walk 50ft uphill from the start of the west face and fi nd a rising, left-leaning ramp/roof system. Start on a large, fl at boulder. Climb up to a roof with a volleyball-sized hueco in it. Pull over the roof to the right to reach a second overhang (5.8 R). Crank past this and onto a low-angled, cobbled face. Climb 100ft of unprotected 5.7 to join Satan’s Slab just above the second roof. Place some gear and continue up and left to a ledge with a pin and belay. Finish on Satan’s Slab.Gear: SR to #3.5 Camalot, optional #4/#5 Camalots for start (marginal)FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1976

392. Watchmaker Steady 5.13a 70ftCommence this climb 40ft, and two sport routes, right of Doric Dihedral. Micro-crimp up the ultra smooth, vertical face to the anchor. Chipped.Gear: 5 bolts 2-bolt anchorFA: Bob Horan 1987

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