ISSUE 7• APRIL 2015

www.eatmag.co.nz

Sweet Couture

& much more

Natural Wine+Cheese

2 www.eatmag.co.nz

3.................EDITORIAL

4.................APRIL EVENTS

6.................FEATURE

10...............YES CHEF

14...............BAKING

16...............DRINKS

20...............VIBRANT VEGE

22...............CHEESE CULTURE

24...............GIVEAWAYS

CONTENTS

www.eatmag.co.nzHave you subscribed to Eat New Zealand? It’s free!

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With the days getting shorter and

cooler, Autumn is one of my

favourite times of the year -

especially when it comes to eating.

This month we have some lovely recipes

from new contributors Emma Tucker and

Emma Robinson. We also have a recipe

from Marco Edwardes, chef at Te Whau

Vineyard and Restaurant on Waiheke

and a beautiful Easter recipe utilising

Zany Zeus Cheeses - they won Champion

Fresh Cheese at the recent New Zealand

Champion of Cheese Awards. We also have

some amazing natural wines selected by

Elissa Jordan to go with all of these.

ABOUT Short, sharp and sweet, Eat New Zealand is New Zealand’s free monthly e-magazine for passionate Kiwi food and cooking enthusiasts.

EDITOR Jules van Cruysen

GROUP EDITOR Richard LiewART DIRECTOR Jodi OlssonCONTENT ENQUIRIES Email Jules on jules@eatmag.co.nzADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Phone Jennifer Liew on 09 522 7257 or email jenniferl@espiremedia.com

If you have a sweet tooth, check out our

feature on two Auckland pastry chefs,

Giapo Grazoli and Brian Campbell who are

both breaking away from the confines of

their restaurants/shops and pushing the

boundaries of what is dessert.

Thank you to all our contributors and you

the readers, if you have a story idea do not

hesitate to get in touch with me at

jules@eatmag.co.nz

Please Contact Us

editorial

Jules

✉

4 www.eatmag.co.nz4 www.eatnz.co.nz

AprilTHIS MONTH

A few new openings this month.

Late last year, one of Wellingtons finest

wine bars Arbitrageur closed its doors.

It has recently opened as Annam,

owned an upmarket Vietnamese/

French restaurant which features

eastern inspired cocktails and a vibrant

decor change.

Likewise, long time wine bar Vivo on

Edward Street is now Thief Bar.

If you are hankering after some

classic French Bistro fare, do not

overlook Le Chef on Victoria Street

West in Auckland.

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If you want something of an East (Far

East) and West (South-West) vibe

look no further than Woodpecker Hill which combines BBQ with Asian

flavours and has, by the looks of it,

one hell of a wine list.

Also hot is the new Pilkingtons on Shortland Street, which bills itself as Bar,

Terrace and Kitchen the vibe and menus look extremely inviting.

Correction: Last issue we said that Jano Bistro in Wellington was at

270 Cuba Street, is, in fact, a couple of blocks over at 270 Willis Street.

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FEATURE

Sweet Couture

WORDS BY Jules van Cruysen

The pastry section of a restaurant

is one of the most specialised.

However, it is usually shoehorned in

at the end of your gastronomic journey in a

restaurant so that pastry chefs rarely get the

acclaim they deserve.

Two Auckland chefs are changing this;

one is Giapo Grazoli is the larger than

life gelato maestro at Giapo: Haute Ice

Cream. The other is Brian Campbell, the

former pastry chef at Milse a restaurant

built around his talents by Auckland’s Hip

Group. Brian recently launched Sweet

Cuisine, which sees him host various

pop-up dessert events in Auckland’s finest

eateries. Both are looking for new outlets

for their creative crafts.

Sweet Cuisine by Brian Campbell launched

by quickly selling out dessert degustations

at Merediths and Sidart followed with

the more casual Sundae Sessions at Imas

Deli. With over 15 years experience,

Brian is relishing the ability to work in

different environments wanting to create

“something for everyone” with events

designed to fit the location.

Even in more formal environments he

doesn’t want to be stuffy, and promises

that each of his creations will have

“something surprising,” with his plated

desserts and tasting menus tending to

be more avant-garde. Like any top notch

restaurant menu, his are focused around

celebrating seasonality and local produce.

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As a master of his craft, Brian seeks

balance in his desserts which enables

him to serve them together as a menu.

He describes his sugar content as very

low, saying that if a dessert he creates is

noticeably sweet, it is too sweet.

However, his Sweet Cuisine pop-ups are

only temporary. He intends to use them as a

stepping stone to finding his own location.

Where Brian is laid back and relaxed,

Giapo bursts with enthusiasm. His Queen

Street gelateria serves about 1000 cones

daily and everything, including the cone,

is made from scratch every day. Sitting in

store with him, he darts in and out of the

conversation. He is constantly giving tips

and instructions to his staff.

While Giapo speaks with an Italian accent,

you can tell immediately he is a kiwi.

His flavours, other than Tiramisu and his

signature ‘Giapo’ (salted caramel served with

Italian meringue, amaretto biscuits and gold

plated hazelnuts) all scream of Kiwiana and

are full of memories from my childhood.

Did I mention this is not just ice cream,

a cone at Giapo costs up to $18 - yes,

for one cone! Each is garnished with

accompaniments to accentuate and

counterpoint the flavours, something

unheard of in his native Italy.

Giapo describes himself as having a

huge responsibility, over 80% of his

customers are international visitors and

for many a visit to Giapo is their first

both figurative and literal taste of New

Zealand. That is 300,000 visitors to New

Zealand every year; his responsibility

is to these customers, but more so to

New Zealand. He feels it is his personal

obligation to ensure that each guest is

treated very well.

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He also feels a responsibility to his staff,

many of whom work long hours. His chefs

now push him out of the kitchen when

he comes to experiment as their

production demands are so high each day.

But he says that he is most inspired by

“human potential”.

While his location seems ideal for the

business, he has outgrown it, again both

literally and figuratively. While Queen

Street is most visitors first stop off the bus

after landing here he bemoans the strip

saying that, “the only attraction on the

street is me.”

Giapo has continually focused on honing

his craft, using whatever ingredients and

tools he can to make his product better.

These include 3D printers and developing

sugar free gelato bases, gluten free waffle

cones and warm ice cream. He describes

making all of the ingredients fresh each

day and prepared in front of the customer

to order, Ice Cream a-la-minute. His next

step on his journey is Ice Cream Super

a-la-minute where “even the ice cream is

done for you right there”, that is, frozen

and churned to order with the use of

liquid nitrogen.

He also seems tired of the confines of cone

and cup. Because there is no room for

tables these are the only vessels that work

in the current location meaning that he is

limited in what he can do. Giapo describes

himself as an artist; his medium just

happens to be ice cream. It is obvious that

he has not finished expressing himself and

needs to keep growing to do this.

Being unbound from traditional confines

has allowed these two chefs to push the

boundaries; exploring the intersection

between art, science and craft. They

are changing not only your dinner but

challenging the status quo of how we

think about food.

Jules van Cruysen is the editor of Eat NZ Magazine and a Wellington based food and drinks writer. You can read his work at XYEats.com and follow him on twitter at @xy_eats.

10 www.eatmag.co.nz

Te Whau Vineyard

Beef Carpaccio with Chef Marco Edwardes

YES CHEF

WORDS BY Bri DiMattina

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It seems so in keeping with a restaurant

in the middle of a boutique vineyard

that the chef follows the philosophy of

terroir. Terroir can be very loosely translated

as “a sense of place,” which is embodied in

certain characteristic qualities, the sum of

the effects that the local environment has

had on the production of the product.

At Te Whau Vineyard, the exquisite wine

served in the restaurant begins its life by

being picked by hand from vines which are

almost within reach of the tables.

Just as the vines fall out of view and give

way to the water with the Auckland vista

spreading out in the background there is

a grove of olive trees with four varieties

planted: Koroneiki, Manzanillo, Frantoio

and Picual. These are picked and sent only

500m down the road to Berni Hart of

Azzuro Groves to be processed.

The olives are pressed, and 25 litres of

blended oil is returned to Te Whau. This

is a service they offer to all residents of

Waiheke, if you bring your olives along

they will press them for you, keeping

some aside for their ‘community blend’

which is a medal winner in its own right.

Chef Marco Edwardes is originally from

Germany but has called Waiheke home for

the eight years he has been at the helm

of the kitchen at Te Whau. The restaurant

moves with the rhythm of the island -

slowing in winter where he opens on

Friday as an enoteca, serving a couple of

different dishes.

It is is his way of easing into the busy

weekends of summer and is especially

popular with locals as Marco is unbound

by the constraints of a menu. He can cook

whatever is fresh, local and interesting.

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Enjoy your 2015 season Bluff Oysters with one of these fine offerings from Malborough’s Cloudy Bay Winery

visit our online store: moorewilsons.co.nz

partnershipa perfect

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014 $31.95 bottle The quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, extremely popular worldwide. Full of ripe citrus and passionfruit flavours.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus Vintage 2009 $39.50 bottle Aged on lees, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is toasty and full bodied with hints of biscuit and brioche. A fantastic vintage methode at a great price.

Find out more about Te Whau Vineyard Restaurant & Chef Marco Edwardes

Bri DiMattina is the owner of The Market which matches artisanal ingredients with New Zealands best chefs.

Serves four

INGREDIENTS2 tbsp Manuka smoked mustard

2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1/2 garlic clove, finely chopped

300g piece of beef fillet, trimmed

1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tbsp each oregano and thyme, finely chopped

8 figs, quartered

1 cup rocket

Azzuro Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Aged balsamic vinegar

Basil

METHOD

Combine the mustard, anchovies and garlic in a bowl, season

to taste and brush evenly over the beef.

Combine herbs in a bowl, then scatter on a tray and roll the beef in

the herbs, pressing to cover evenly. Wrap the beef tight in plastic wrap,

rolling the ends to form a tight even cylinder, and place in freezer to chill

and firm for approximately 30 minutes.

Remove the plastic wrap, and then thinly slice with a very sharp knife,

arrange on a platter and scatter with the figs, rocket and perhaps

shaved parmesan if you like. Drizzle with a splash of Azzuro Olive Oil,

aged Balsamic and scatter with basil leaves.

www.eatmag.co.nz 13

Enjoy your 2015 season Bluff Oysters with one of these fine offerings from Malborough’s Cloudy Bay Winery

visit our online store: moorewilsons.co.nz

partnershipa perfect

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014 $31.95 bottle The quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, extremely popular worldwide. Full of ripe citrus and passionfruit flavours.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus Vintage 2009 $39.50 bottle Aged on lees, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is toasty and full bodied with hints of biscuit and brioche. A fantastic vintage methode at a great price.

14 www.eatmag.co.nz

If you can’t get hold of the Fix and Fogg

peanut butter, don’t worry, there are

substitutes you can use.

Gone are the days of just crunchy or

smooth as a peanut butter option. If

peanut butter isn’t your thing, hazelnut

spread also works well.

Whatever you choose to use, do follow

the freezing instructions as the process

does make life easier. I am all for making

life easy: with these bites, you won’t even

need a plate.

BAKING

Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookie Bites

I love little chunks of sweet delight, the kind that are gone in two bites. These are just that and a bit more with their delicious centre of chocolate nutty goodness. The newest release from the Wellington

based Fix and Fogg is surely a winner for me.

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Emma Tucker is Muffin-Mum, she writes about baking, cooking and Wellington restaurants.

INGREDIENTS1 cup chocolate peanut butter

125g softened butter cubed

1 cup packed light brown sugar

2 eggs lightly beaten

1 tsp vanilla essence

1½ cups plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

METHOD

Line a baking tray with baking paper, dollop ¾ teaspoon of chocolate peanut

butter onto a tray. Do as many dollops as holes in tin, 24 is the usual mini

tin size. Place on the top shelf of your freezer for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 180˚C. Spray a mini muffin tin with oil.

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy, a food processor or electric

beaters are good. When nice and light, add half the egg mixture and beat

some more. Add the other half and the vanilla essence. Fold in the flour and

baking powder until fully incorporated.

Put a third of the cookie batter into a bowl and set aside. This will be the

topping. With the remaining mix, share between the holes, roughly a

heaped teaspoon each. Remove the chocolate peanut butter dollops from

the freezer and place a single one in the centre of the cookie mix, twist a

little, so some mixture rises up on the sides. Fill each hole.

Top the dollops with the remaining mix. Try to cover the

chocolate completely, if needed use the handle end of a teaspoon

to move the mixture around.

Bake until light brown, around 15 minutes. Allow to cool until cool enough

to be removed from the pan. Place on a wire rack and leave to cool a little

longer. Don’t try them too soon, use caution as the filling is hot!

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DRINKS

Natural WineBY Elissa Jordan

Natural wines are undeniably trendy at the moment and equally as misunderstood.

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Natural wines can be and have

been, rejected outright for being

funky and unnatural. There are

many wine experts who like to jump up

and down about how little they appreciate

natural wines - for the most part, this is

due to a lack of experience. Be forewarned,

this is going to get geeky. Feel free to

jump to the bottom of this piece for some

examples of exceptional natural drinks.

The first thing to understand is that

there are some terrible examples of

both natural and conventional wines.

And in both categories there are some

fantastic wines. On two separate

occasions recently friends have asked

for advice on finding natural, organic

or biodynamic wines that they can

enjoy. One went so far as to ask for a

New Zealand wine, any New Zealand

wine, to enjoy. Unfortunately, they

had a lot of experiences with the

less good examples of wine.

Before going forward, let’s step back

- what is natural wine? Asking that

question is tantamount to hitting a

metaphorical hornets nest as it depends

on the producers perspective of what

constitutes ‘natural’.

Sustainable winemaking balances the

environmentally friendly with the

economically viable. Nearly all New

Zealand winemakers subscribe to a

sustainable approach, which allows for

a reduced use of agrochemicals to just

what’s necessary.

Organic wine can mean one of two

things, the avoidance of synthetic

additives in the grape growing process

and/or the reduction of chemicals and

use of sulfites in the wine-making.

Biodynamics is an extension of organics.

It also takes places without chemicals but

additionally takes into account the entire

ecosystem where the grapes are grown.

Producers will use wild yeasts and avoid

acidity adjustments or other modifications.

At the end of the scale is ‘natural’, which

is a confusing term as the previous three

labels can also be considered natural. In

it’s purest form, natural means wines with

an absolute minimum of intervention - in

the vineyard and the winery - wild yeasts,

no additives, nothing synthetic.

What happens is that as you move

further down the rabbit hole the wines

become less conventional, less familiar,

18 www.eatmag.co.nz

less recognisable. And that is where the

controversy and the criticism begins.

If you’re looking to better understand

natural wines, wanting to drink wines that

have a reduced environmental impact and/

or just looking to try something new (with

an open mind) then this whole category is

open to be explored.

The idea of ‘natural’ doesn’t really come up

in other drinks arenas. I asked Wellington

beer expert Hadyn Green what he would

consider a natural beer and he gave me

the wild yeast beers of Good George.

Because hops act as the preservative in

beer, there aren’t a great deal of additives

that go into making beer. Most are just

malted barley, hops, yeast and water.

In both beer and wine production, the

yeast strains used as part of the alcoholic

fermentation can be wild or cultured. A

cultured yeast strain is a commercially

produced, laboratory grown yeast that is

specifically designed to encourage specific

characteristics in the drink. While wild

yeasts are naturally occurring. In wine,

they occur naturally on the skins of the

grape. In beer, they can come from rotting

fruit (like with spontaneously fermented

lambic beers) or oddly enough from the

hairs in a brewer’s beer (like the Oregon

Rogue Brewery Beard Beer).

Organic winesTe Whare Ra Riesling ‘D’ 2014 - Highly

aromatic showing off a complex array

of honeysuckle, citrus and minerality.

Completely dry, with a mouth-watering

acidity that gives the wine lift and vitality.

Concentrated floral, citrus and mineral

flavours show on the palate.

www.eatmag.co.nz 19

Biodynamic winesMillton Te Arai Chenin Blanc 2014 -

Fragrant florals and vibrant lime on the

nose. A waxy, lanolin palate with flavours

of bush honey and ripe pears. This wine

is texture - slightly oily with a healthy

thread of acidity.

The Eat New Zealand Drinks section is proudly sponsored by Moore Wilson’s Wine Direct. Find a great selection of wines, beers and spirits at great prices here.

Elissa Jordan is also known as the Winey Little Bitch, she blogs about New Zealand

and International Wine and can be found on twitter @winewinenz

Natural winesMillar Road Green Glow Skin Fermented

Sauvignon Blanc 2013 - Rich, exotic,

opulent. Definitely unusual. Deep golden

colour with aromas of pine, lavender and

lemongrass. Vibrant, cleansing acidity, firm

tannic structure and great length.

Wild ferment beers Good George Blueberry Beer - a tartly acidic

beer with fresh, fruity berry qualities.

This sour beer is made on a small scale

and intended to be paired with the

warmer days of summer.

VIBRANT VEGE

Butternut Squash &

Lentil SaladRECIPES BY Emma Robertson

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Butternut Squash &

Lentil SaladServes 4 as a side dish or 2 for lunch

INGREDIENTS6 x 2cm slices of peeled butternut squash neck slices

olive oil

salt and pepper

parsley leaves

½ cup cooked puy lentils

feta

red chili, finely sliced

extra virgin olive oil

a lemon

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Oil a baking tray then lay out the butternut squash

slices, seasoned with salt and pepper. Roast for 15 minutes per side the lay on the

serving plate. Spoon the lentils nicely over and around the butternut squash slices,

scatter with the parsley, feta and chilli. Drizzle with the olive oil and lemon juice.

Season with salt and pepper. Serve or wait until everyone is ready - no problem, this

salad does not mind the rest!

Although butternut squash seems

to be an all round ingredient now,

we have started to get a few in

our vegetable box delivery in the last few

weeks. The adage goes: when you get home

put a pot of water on to boil and dinner is

half made, I say, put some butternut on to

roast and dinner is all but made.

Butternut squash is always a welcome

ingredient in our kitchen. Cubes roast well

to add to pretty much anything, and raw

chunks cooked into a curry are fantastic.

Butternut squash is a friend of chilli,

lemon, feta, and legumes.

When I was thinking of this salad I

imagined something warm, but with some

summer notes like chilli, lemon, parsley,

olive oil - you know where I am going with

this. Salads at room temperature are so

forgiving, so easy and so right. This salad is

sharpened with lemon juice and finished

with olive oil. A sprinkling of chilli adds

heat and parley some more colour. Feta is

the creaminess to make you feel special.

A salad perfect for those last few warm

evenings, perhaps served aside some

barbecued meat or on its own as a

well packed office lunch.

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Zany Zeus is one of the few cheese

makers in New Zealand that has

such a strong focus on fresh cheeses.

Brother and sister team, Michael and Meropi

started in 2000 with the humble beginnings

in the Meropis garage with their mother

Lefkis’ Halloumi recipe. A lot has changed

since then…

In 2012, they made a big move and started

smoking cheeses, churning fresh batch ice

creams and gourmet yoghurts in a new

store selling directly to the public.

Amongst their fresh cultured products

is a delightful range of Creme Fraiche,

mascarpone, cream cheese, and sour

cream - all available all over New Zealand.

In March, they won the Champion

Fresh Cheese Award at the New Zealand

Champion of Cheese Awards.

This recipe is a little Easter treat uses

the lovely thick cream cheese and sour

cream. Many years ago I was given a

recipe that is an authentic Russian Easter

specialty made specifically at this time

of year to celebrate. There are, of course,

always many variations when it comes to

celebratory recipes, and in this recipe I

give you the room to put your own spin

on the dish.

It was given to me by a chef, and

honestly if I could remember who it

was I would credit you here, because

this recipe has been with me ever since,

and just like me, I think there are many

others that will enjoy it.

One of the final ingredients is soaked

fruits, chocolate chips and roasted slivered

nuts - pistachio, walnut and almond.

It comes down to your favourite, so I

encourage you to note the weight in the

recipe and then choose your own.

Russian Pashka (pronounced pass - ka) is an

indulgent rich, dessert. It may be an Easter

treat because of the luxuriousness of it. It

simply could not be eaten on a regular basis.

The best comparison I can muster is that

this is for anyone who loves cheesecake and

wants to skip the baking component!

Have everything at room temperature.

This is not essential but makes things

a lot easier!

CHEESE CULTURE

Zany Zeus PASHKA

BY Bri DiMattina

www.eatmag.co.nz 23

200g Butter

100g icing sugar

cream these together until almost fluffy

200g sour cream

200g cream cheese

mix these together until just mixed

200g of chopped dried fruits / nuts, (as outlined above)

Now place the three sets of ingredients into a bowl and lightly fold this until it is just

mixed and no more. If it is over-mixed, it will become grainy in texture.

Choose some interesting shaped cups or ramekins and line them with muslin. Fill with

the mix and chill until the mixture firms up. Keep them chilled until you serve them.

I recommend serving them with sharper fresh fruit such as fresh berries, a coulis or

rhubarb as it needs a contrast for the richness.

Bri DiMattina is the owner of The Market which matches artisanal

ingredients with New Zealands best chefs.

24 www.eatmag.co.nz

Each month all Eat New Zealand subscribers automatically go in the draw to win cool food

and cooking giveaways and prizes. Simply check this page each month to see if you’ve won

and get in touch with your delivery details by the stated date to claim your prize!

for local stockists contact

admin@macvine.co.nz

or call 09 579 7451

for local stockists contact

admin@macvine.co.nz

or call 09 579 7451

This month’s winners

Giveaway #1: Lisa May Congratulations to Lisa. You’ve won a beautiful set of Authentis Casual stemless wine glasses from Spiegelau!

SUBSCRIBERGIVEAWAYS

www.eatmag.co.nz 25

If you’re one of the lucky subscribers named above, email your delivery details to jenniferl@espiremedia.com by 5pm, Friday 22nd May 2015, to claim your prize.

For local stockists contact admin@macvine.co.nz or call (09) 579 7451

Giveaway #2: Claire Bradley Congratulations, Claire. You’ve won an awesome Wellington Gourmet Shopping Bag and a copy of The Dominion Post From the Menu cookbook from Moore Wilson’s!

Giveaway #3: Ron CamptonCongratulations, Ron. You’ve won a fun

night out for two, with a double pass cooking experience from Social Cooking!

26 www.eatmag.co.nz

WIN WITH EATNZ!

Every month we’ll be challenging you, our awesome readers,

to take the Eat New Zealand Readers Challenge. To enter,

simply recreate the dishes featured in The Menu, take some

photos of each of your finished dishes, and share them on our

Facebook page at by the stated date.

A selection of all entrants photos and the winner as judged by our

editor will be announced in the following issue. Easy!

KEEN TO EXPAND YOUR COOKING HORIZONS AND HAVE SOME FUN IN THE PROCESS?

Enter this month’s readers challenge and share your photos on our facebook page

Take the Eat New Zealand Readers Challenge and be in to win!

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“To be anarchic, you have to be organised”

-Feran Adria