Eat New Zealand - Issue 2
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Transcript of Eat New Zealand - Issue 2
ISSUE 2 • NOVEMBER 2014
Vegetable Dishes Galore
More DeliciousBaking!
November Foodie Events+ recipes and much more!!
www.eatmag.co.nz
GET OUT YOUR BBQ!
2 www.eatmag.co.nz
Have you subscribed to Eat New Zealand? It’s free!
1.................EDITORIAL
6.................THIS MONTH
8.................THE MENU
15...............READER CHALLENGE
16...............YES CHEF
18...............VIBRANT VEGES
20...............THE CUT
24...............BAKING
26...............GIVEAWAYS
28...............DRINKS
32...............FAMILY EATS
CONTENTS
www.eatmag.co.nzHave you subscribed to Eat New Zealand? It’s free!
www.eatmag.co.nz 3
I can’t believe it is November! That means it is almost summer and less than eight weeks before Christmas.
This month we have some amazing summer recipes for you: a beautiful salad from chef Oliver Jackson, a relaxed three course meal from Glen Taylor (of Taylor’s on Jackson, in Wellington), Persian Grilled Chicken, and more.
Thanks to all of you that read and enjoyed Issue one, I hope you enjoy Issue two just as much. Make sure you get the word out to friends, family and colleagues who are food lovers.
ABOUT Short, sharp and sweet, Eat New Zealand is New Zealand’s free monthly e-magazine for passionate Kiwi food and cooking enthusiasts.
EDITOR Jules van CruysenGROUP EDITOR Jennifer Liew
ART DIRECTOR Jodi OlssonCONTENT ENQUIRIES Email Jules on [email protected] ENQUIRIES Phone Jennifer on 09 522 7257 or email [email protected]
If you are trying out recipes from the mag, make sure you post them to our facebook page. The very best pics will be published in the magazine.
Likewise, if you want to contribute to Eat NZ Mag, just drop me a line: [email protected]. We are happy to publish recipes, food related fiction and non-fiction, and photo journalism.
Happy eating!
Please Contact Us
editorial
Jules
✉
ISSN NUMBER: 2382-1833
David Barley, aka the NZ Cheese Man (nzcheeseman.co.nz), and veteran of several Auckland farmers’ markets, has recently opened The Cheese Room
in Milford. It is dedicated to artisan cheeses and small-goods from New Zealand producers.
4 www.eatnz.co.nz
THIS MONTH
NovemberOpenings
In Hastings, The Little Black Bird has set up nest in the ex-Bay Espresso Market Street premises.
Run by chefs Ben Cruse and Lucinda Sherratt (also a nutritionist and yoga instructor), this cafe will add further life to the growing scene in Hastings, which was previously overshadowed by Havelock North and Napier.
www.eatnz.co.nz 5
Enzo and Nadi Bresolin, owners of Scopa and Duke Caravels (among others), and sons of Romero Bresolin (owner of the famed Il Casino), have recently closed their steakhouse Crazy Horse to pursue a new venture; The Bresolin, further up Willis St. The Bresolin, due to open soon, will be a social dining environment with live music and a whole beast roasted over an open fire every Sunday.
Also in Wellington, Five Boroughs will open on the corner of Majoribanks St and Roxborough St. Billed as deli, diner and dive, it will feature traditional American deli fare washed down with craft beer.
The space left by Crazy Horse’s departure will be filled by Burger Liquor. The name says it all.
6 www.eatmag.co.nz
THIS MONTH
moorewilsons.co.nz
Available 7th November click to pre-order online
Pictured: Hangar Steak with Parmesan
BBQ TIME!
it’s
Josh’s Backyard BBQ
Summer Rosé
Barbecue Reds
What’s a BBQ without wine? We’ve put together a couple of mixed 6 packs for just the occasion, choose from easy-drinking summer rosé or a match robust reds with your smokey BBQ meats!
special offer - only $99 per 6 pack
2 bottles each of Black Cottage Marlborough
Pinot Noir Rosé 2014 Clearview Estate Hawkes Bay
Black Reef Blush 2014
Ata Rangi Marlborough Summer Rosé 2014
2 bottles each of Red Metal Vineyards Merlot
Cabernet Franc 2013 Esk Valley Merlot Cabernet
Sauvignon Malbec 2012
Mills Reef Reserve Syrah 2012
wine, beer, cider and a great gift selection available for delivery nationwide
here
Visit us online
Find your nearest store
College Street, Wellington
Sauvignon Blanc and Seafood November 6th
Since 2001, the very best Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc producers have competed in a friendly boat race to see who can be the first one to get their wines to market in Wellington. 2014 is no different. They will be making land on the 6th of November at the Chafers Dock, and the wines will be served with local seafood: the best accompaniment to Marlborough Savvy!
Rising Can November 8th
If you are in Coromandel on Saturday the 8th, get to Hot Water Beach for Rising Can. As more and more serious craft brewers are canning their wares, the folks at Hot Water Brewing are hosting a festival of canned beer, and food trucks featuring their own beers as well as those of Garage Project, Baylands Brewing, Three Boys and Sawmill Brewery.
Events
Nine North Canterbury Vineyards November 12th
November 12th sees nine fantastic Canterbury wineries take over the Northern Club in Auckland. With wines from Pegasus Bay, Black Estate, Pyramid Valley, Bell Hill and five others, this is bound to be an exciting event.
Taste of Auckland November 13th - 16th
From the 13th to the 16th of November, Taste of Auckland is being held at Western Springs. As well as exhibitors galore, it features talks and demonstrations from Auckland’s best chefs, and ten of Auckland’s best regarded restaurants (albeit in pop-up form).
www.eatmag.co.nz 7
moorewilsons.co.nz
Available 7th November click to pre-order online
Pictured: Hangar Steak with Parmesan
BBQ TIME!
it’s
Josh’s Backyard BBQ
Summer Rosé
Barbecue Reds
What’s a BBQ without wine? We’ve put together a couple of mixed 6 packs for just the occasion, choose from easy-drinking summer rosé or a match robust reds with your smokey BBQ meats!
special offer - only $99 per 6 pack
2 bottles each of Black Cottage Marlborough
Pinot Noir Rosé 2014 Clearview Estate Hawkes Bay
Black Reef Blush 2014
Ata Rangi Marlborough Summer Rosé 2014
2 bottles each of Red Metal Vineyards Merlot
Cabernet Franc 2013 Esk Valley Merlot Cabernet
Sauvignon Malbec 2012
Mills Reef Reserve Syrah 2012
wine, beer, cider and a great gift selection available for delivery nationwide
here
Visit us online
Find your nearest store
College Street, Wellington
8 www.eatmag.co.nz
A SPRINGBBQ
TheMenu
with Glen Taylor of Taylors on Jackson
www.eatmag.co.nz 9
A SPRINGBBQ
Crayfish Cakes
INGREDIENTS500g cooked chopped crayfish or prawn meat1⁄2 cup thick mayonnaiseZest of one lemon1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauceHuffman’s hot sauce to taste1 free range egg2 tbsp. chopped fresh chives1⁄2 cup panko breadcrumbs
METHODIn a medium sized bowl, whisk together well the mayonnaise, lemon zest, Worcestershire sauce and Huffman’s hot sauce. Whisk in the egg until well incorporated.
Gently mix in the cooked crayfish, panko crumbs and chives. Cover and let rest in the refrigerator for at least an hour before grilling.
Heat the flat plate section of your BBQ or a heavy based skillet to a moderate heat and drizzle with olive oil. Now carefully spoon in golf-ball sized patties of your mix and cook until deep golden brown – about three minutes on each side.
Serve warm with a good helping of griddled sweet corn and fresh lemon.
INGREDIENTS3 fresh cobs of sweet corn1⁄2 finely diced red onion1 finely diced red chilli (seeds removed)1⁄2 bunch chopped coriander leaves1 tbsp. roasted crushed coriander seeds1 tsp. liquid honeyGrated zest and juice of 1 lime2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
METHOD
Gently peel and remove the husks from the corn cobs and place the cobs onto the griddle section of the BBQ on a moderate heat.
Turn the corn every three to four minutes for approximately 12 to 15 minutes. You are looking for a slightly charred and juicy cob of corn.
Allow the corn to cool enough to handle and then cut off the kernels from the core and place them into a bowl with remaining ingredients and mix well.
Don’t be concerned if the kernels don’t all separate.
Check the seasoning and adjust with sea salt and fresh black pepper.
with Griddled Sweet Corn
10 www.eatmag.co.nz
Lamb Shoulderwith Chimichurri Marinade
and Romesco Sauce
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INGREDIENTS2 roasted and peeled red peppers1 clove garlic crushed2 white anchovies1 red chilli1 vine ripened tomato1⁄2 diced red onion2 tbsp. tomato paste2 tbsp. sherry vinegar3⁄4 cup peeled toasted almonds1 tsp. smoked paprika150mls extra virgin olive oilSea salt and black pepper to taste
METHODIn a heavy based saucepan, gently sauté the red onion and garlic in the extra virgin olive oil for two minutes.
To the onion mixture add anchovies, red chilli, chopped vine tomato, tomato paste and cook for a further two minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a food processor with the remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Season with sea salt and pepper.
MarinadeINGREDIENTS1 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves tightly packed1⁄4 cup fresh oregano leaves1⁄2 red onion5 cloves peeled garlic1 green chilli100mls sherry vinegar2 white anchovies2 tbsp. of olive oilGrated zest and juice of one lemon
METHODPlace all ingredients into a food processor and pulse until finely chopped, but not to the point of being smooth: you want to retain some of the texture.
LambINGREDIENTS1 butterflied lamb shoulder1 recipe of chimichuri marinade
METHODIdeally the night before, rub the butterflied shoulder of lamb in the chimichuri marinade and rest in the refrigerator. One hour before you are ready to BBQ your lamb, remove it from the refrigerator to allow the lamb to come up to room temperature.
Brush off any excess marinade from your lamb and place onto the griddle section of your BBQ on a low-moderate heat and close the hood. Turn over at approximately 15 minutes. The lamb will take approximately 20 to 25 minutes to reach a nice pink medium. Once you have removed it from the BBQ allow to rest for 15 minutes.
Romesco Sauce
12 www.eatmag.co.nz
www.eatmag.co.nz 13
INGREDIENTSXg Buckwheat
1 sliced spring onion
1⁄2 cup golden raisins
Juice of two lemons
3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1⁄2 tsp. crushed toasted cumin seeds
1⁄4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh mint
200g soft goats cheese
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
METHODIn a fine-meshed strainer, give the
buckwheat a good rinse until the water
is running clear. Transfer to a medium-
sized bowl and cover with 750mls of
clean water.
Allow the buckwheat to soak for 30
minutes but no longer as it won’t sprout
if over soaked.
Pour the buckwheat back into your
fine-meshed strainer and rinse
thoroughly again until the water runs
clear. Place the strainer over a suitable
bowl to catch any drips and cover with
cheesecloth. This is important as the
sprouts like to breath.
Place your buckwheat in a spot out of
direct sunlight, 20˚C is ideal.
Twice daily, you need to rinse your
sprouts in blood temperature water. This
step would be best done at breakfast
and at dinner time for two days or until a
small tail forms.
To harvest and stop the sprouting
process you need to rinse thoroughly
in cold tap water and drain well on
absorbent paper, place into a sealed
container and refrigerate until needed.
They will last two to three days.
In a medium-sized bowl, combine
buckwheat and all of the other
ingredients except for the goat’s cheese.
Crumble goat’s cheese on top just
before serving.
Sprouted Buckwheat & Goat’s Cheese
Salad
14 www.eatmag.co.nz
INGREDIENTS
2 cups cornflakes
1 cup milk
1 cup cream
3⁄4 cup uncooked Arborio rice
1⁄2 cup castor sugar
2 tbsp. soft brown sugar
1 beaten free range egg
1 tbsp. butter
1 split vanilla bean
Pinch of sea salt
METHOD
On a parchment-lined sheet tray, bake
the cornflakes at 180˚C for 12 to 15
minutes until lightly toasted. Allow to
cool completely.
Place the cornflakes into a large bowl
and cover with the milk and cream. Stir
vigorously and allow to steep for 30
minutes. Strain and push out as much
milk and cream as you can with a spoon.
In a heavy-based saucepan, bring
375mls of water to the boil and add the
rice. Stir well and reduce to a simmer.
Cook for eight to 10 minutes. The rice
should be still firm to the bite and all
the water absorbed. It’s best to stir the
rice in the last few minutes to prevent
it from sticking.
In a second heavy-based saucepan, add
3⁄4 of the cereal milk, sugar, brown
sugar, split vanilla bean and cooked
rice. Cook over a medium-low heat,
stirring often, for 12 minutes. Mix in the
last of the cereal milk and beaten egg.
Continue to cook on a low heat for another
five minutes, remove the vanilla bean
and discard. Spoon your rice pudding into
desired serving dish and chill.
Once chilled, if you have a kitchen blow
torch you can caramelise as a fun little
extra garnish. Serve along with plenty of
fresh berries.
Cereal Milk Rice Pudding
www.eatmag.co.nz 15
Take the Eat New Zealand Readers Challenge and be in to win!
Every month we’ll be challenging you, our awesome readers, to take the Eat New Zealand
Readers Challenge.
To enter, simply recreate the Spring BBQ dishes featured in The Menu as a three course meal for your friends or family, take some photos of each of your finished dishes, and share them on our Facebook page at by the stated date.
A selection of all entrants photos and the winner as judged by our editor will be announced in the following issue. Easy!
KEEN TO EXPAND YOUR COOKING HORIZONS AND HAVE SOME FUN IN THE PROCESS?
Enter this month’s readers challenge and share your photos on our facebook page
16 www.eatmag.co.nz
RECIPE BY CHEF Oliver Jackson
YES CHEF
White Asparaguswith Burrata, CharGrilled Zucchini & Pomegranate
www.eatmag.co.nz 17
Serves 6
Wine Match: Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon
INGREDIENTS
400 g white asparagus
1 large or 2 medium yellow zucchini
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch basil
1/2 cup baby mint leaves
250g burrata
40g pomegranate seeds
70ml lemon dressing
2 chrysanthemum flowers, petals removed
15 pea shoot tendrils
METHOD
Put a medium sized saucepan of salted
water on the heat and bring to the boil.
Slice the asparagus on the diagonal
into five centimetre lengths. Blanch the
asparagus in the boiling water for 30
seconds only then drop into a bowl of iced
water. Once cooled, drain and set aside.
Heat up your char grill or barbecue. Slice
the zucchini lengthways 0.5 cm thick.
Give them a good drizzle of olive oil and
season well with sea salt and pepper.
Lay the zucchini slices on the grill. Turn
over once you have good char marks.
Take off the heat and slice into long
diagonal strips. Set aside.
Pick the basil and mint leaves.
Drain the burrata and set down on
absorbent kitchen paper.
TO SERVE
Use a nice glass or colourful bowl to serve.
Place the asparagus, zucchini,
pomegranate seeds and picked herbs
in the bowl and pour over the dressing.
Toss gently.
Tear the burrata into chunks and lay on a
separate plate. Dot some of the burrata
around the bowl, and then sprinkle over
the zucchini and herb mix. Alternate until
you have used all the ingredients.
Sprinkle over the chrysanthemum petals
and pea shoot tendrils. Drizzle over the
extra virgin olive oil and finish with a
good crack of black pepper.
This recipe comes from The Vintners Table - Stories, wine and recipes from Pegasus
Bay Winery which is available in good book stores now. If you haven’t tried
burrata, you will love it. It is a type of mozzarella with a creamy inside. This is a colourful, flavourful dish and the pomegranate gives little bursts of flavour as you eat it.
Oliver Jackson was head chef at Pegasus Bay Winery from 2007 - 2011. In 2008, 2009 and 2010, Pegasus Bay won Cuisine Winery Restaurant of the Year. Pegasus Bay Winery is located in the Waipara Valley, approximately an hour’s drive north of Christchurch.
18 www.eatmag.co.nz
Empanadas are a great way to use whatever you find in season at the markets. The filling can be made
from whatever you fancy. Here I have used
sweet leeks, broad beans, asparagus and
tangy goat’s cheese.
The rolling and pinching method
to close the empanadas before
baking is not as hard as it looks.
Alternatively, you can just press
the edges down with a fork.
Chimichurri is a blend of parsley,
fresh oregano, vinegar and chilli,
and is the perfect accompaniment.
Best eaten straight out of the oven – not
that they will last much longer than
that! Can also be frozen and reheated.
I only double-shell larger broad beans as
the small ones are so sweet they don’t
require it.
Broad Bean,Asparagus &
Leek Empanadas
VIBRANT VEGES
RECIPE BY Meg Sinclair with Chimichurri
www.eatmag.co.nz 19
Meg Sinclair blogs about food, life and travel at Eat Drink Shout and is Eat Magazine’s Australian correspondent, based in Melbourne.
Broad Bean,Asparagus &
Leek Empanadas
Makes 10-12 empanadas
INGREDIENTSDough1 1⁄2 cup plain flour3⁄4 cup warm milk100g butter, cubed1 egg yolkpinch salt
Filling1 tbsp. olive oil1 cup broad beans, double-shelled1 bunch asparagus, 6 spearsI leek, sliced1⁄2 cup peas, shelled (frozen can be used if fresh not available)100g soft goat’s cheesesalt and pepper1 tbsp. sesame seeds, for sprinkling1 separated egg , for brushing empanadas before baking
Chimichurri Sauce1⁄2 bunch of parsley: about 1⁄2 cup finely chopped2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano4 garlic cloves, crushed2 finely diced spring onions1 small red chilli, deseeded & roughly chopped2 tbsp. red wine vinegar1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice1⁄2 cup of oil Salt and pepper to taste
For the dough, add flour, salt and butter to a food processor. Pulse until it forms a crumb texture. Slowly add milk and egg yolk until the dough comes together.
Remove from food processor and push
together to form a ball. Wrap in cling film
and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Remove from refrigerator and roll out on
floured surface until 0.5cm thick. Using
a circular cutter about 12cm in diameter,
cut out 10 to 12 circles. You may have to
re-roll the dough after the first circles
are cut. Refrigerate until ready to fill.
For the filling, heat olive oil in a fry pan.
Add leeks and sauté for four minutes or
until cooked. Add broad beans, asparagus,
peas and salt and pepper and cook for a
further four minutes. Do not overcook.
Leave until cool and stir through the
goat’s cheese until well mixed.
For the chimichurri, add all ingredients
to the food processor and pulse until
thoroughly chopped.
Take the dough circles from the fridge
and put 1 1/2 tbsp. of the filling in the
centre of each. Brush egg white around
the perimeter and then fold in half.
To close empanada, pinch and roll
around the open edge. If you have
time, refrigerate the empanadas for 30
minutes to prevent filling from spilling
out when cooking.
Heat oven to 200˚C. Brush the top of
each empanada with egg yolk and scatter
with sesame seeds.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden
brown. Serve with chimichurri.
20 www.eatmag.co.nz
THE CUT
BrisketBY Derrick Paull
www.eatmag.co.nz 21
Brisket. Not exactly what you’d call an inspiring name
or one you’ll find on a fine dining menu, but it’s what I consider a delicacy. Okay; meat, especially a cut like brisket, is seldom called a delicacy, but the word is described in Oxford dictionary as “fineness or intricacy of texture or structure”, and well-cooked brisket certainly fits that description. The key is, however, in the cooking.
Brisket’s home can be found in southern Texas, but some will argue for other states including Tennessee, Georgia and South Carolina. The cut itself has been considered by many worthy only of brining and corning, but for those willing to dedicate a day to the skilful art of smoky barbeque, a delicacy is in the offing.
Brisket is a cut found in the front of the beef rib, and when correctly cut, includes three definite parts. Brisket muscles include the superficial and deep pectorals and the ‘intercostal’ muscles.
As cattle do not have collar bones, these muscles support about 60 percent of the body weight of standing/moving cattle. This requires a significant amount of connective tissue, so the resulting meat must be cooked correctly to tenderize this. These tissues are what gives brisket the juicy, flavoursome goodness we’re looking for. When ordering a brisket, be prepared for an 8 to 10 kilogram
cut, where the two muscle groups are distinctly visible.
Often kiwi (And Aussie) butchers separate the muscles and you can end up buying a half-weight rather than the ‘full-packer’ that you’re after.
The fat cap, which is often left attached to the brisket, helps to keep the meat from drying during the prolonged cooking necessary to break down the connective tissue in the meat.
How you season your brisket is what brings the flavours to the front. The Texas BBQ style is to rub with a rich set-spice mix and cure overnight. I’ve had other styles, but this is definitely the house favourite.
I cannot lie: my rub is inspired by AmazingRibs.com; but I have no doubt it’s in keeping with the majority of Texan brisket rubs. My only addition is salt.
22 www.eatmag.co.nz
Dry RubINGREDIENTS
3 tbsp. coarsely ground black pepper
3 tbsp. ground rock salt
1 tbsp. granulated white sugar
1 tbsp. onion powder
2 tsp. mustard powder
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. chilli or Chipotle powder
1 tsp. chipotle or cayenne powder
METHOD
Mix the ingredients together in a bowl.
Store the rub in a tightly sealed bottle in
a dark place. It will slowly start to decline
in quality but should be fine up to a year
later. Taste it first.
The rub is mostly a surface treatment
for flavour and bark, so you can apply it
just before cooking if you wish. Separate
the two muscles
The point end is more heavily marbled
than the flat and it can be twice as thick, so
by the time it is properly cooked, the thin
end is dry. Some cooks remove the point
layer by working a knife through the fat
layer that runs between the flat and point.
They cook both muscles side by side rather
than one on top of the other. Since the flat
is pretty even thickness, it cooks more
evenly, with only a little bit on the ends
overcooking. The overcooked parts can be
chopped and mixed with sauce for chopped
brisket sandwiches, fajitas; mixed with
beans, etc. By cooking the flat separately
you get beautiful symmetrical sandwich
slices with a smoke ring all around.
BBQ Sauce Makes 5 cups
INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp. paprika
2 tsp. black pepper
2 tsp. Cayenne or chilli powder
1 tsp. cumin powder
1 tbsp. of butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 cup Lone Star beer (or any other lager).
Drink any that is left over.
1/4 cup ‘real’ ketchup
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
3 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
3 tbsp. steak or BBQ sauce (I choose
Whitlock’s)
2 tbsp. brown sugar
Hot sauce to taste (start with 2 tsp. of
Tabasco sauce for mild heat)
2 cups beef, veal, or chicken stock
METHOD
Mix the paprika, black pepper, American
chilli powder, and cumin in a small bowl.
In a one quart saucepan, melt the butter
or bacon fat and gently cook the onion
over medium heat until translucent.
Add the garlic, bell pepper, and the spice
mix you made in step one. Stir, and cook
for two minutes to extract the flavours.
Add the stock and the rest of the
ingredients. Stir until well blended.
Simmer on medium for 15 minutes.
Leftovers will keep in the fridge for a
month or so.
www.eatmag.co.nz 23
Note on cooking
All the recipes I’ve come across talk
about cooking in Fahrenheit – and I’ve
become a convert – but I’ve converted
temps back to Celsius for this recipe.
Brisket needs to be cooked low and
slow. Low in this case is approximately
110˚C: or better, 107˚C, but 110 is close
enough. What you’re trying to do is raise
the internal temp to 65˚C and this takes
about four hours.
To get the best flavour, there is no doubt
you should at least begin the cooking
process over a charcoal or wood fire with
a healthy dose of fragrant hardwoods for
that smoky flavour.
It can be a mission to maintain the
temperature, but if you can get the core
temperature up to 65˚C you’ve done well.
Pour half a cup of beef broth/stock around
the sides of the meat, being careful not to
wash off the rub before you seal the foil.
Then crimp it tight and put the wrapped
meat back on the smoker or move it to
an indoor oven at 90˚C. This step, called
the Texas Crutch, slightly braises the
meat, but most importantly, it prevents
surface evaporation, which cools the
meat and causes the stall.
If you wrap the meat at 65˚C it will power
right through the stall and cut your
cooking time significantly, at which point
you turn it off and let it sit for another
hour. This is called ‘holding’, as opposed
to resting; but that’s another story!
Slicing
Once cooked, the controversy reigns
over the correct way to slice the meat.
Brisket is easier to chew if you cut it
perpendicular to the grain. Cut with the
grain and it can be stringy and chewy.
The problem is that there are two
muscles, the flat and the point, and the
grains run in different directions.
Derrick Paull is the editor of NZ Fisher
BAKING
This month’s baking section features some amazing recipes by Lisa Randel, writer of the popular Sunday Hotpants blog. French Lemon Yoghurt Cake
24 www.eatmag.co.nz
www.eatmag.co.nz 25
INGREDIENTS225g softened unsalted butter
300g caster sugar
4 large eggs separated
2 tsp. grated lemon zest
85ml lemon juice
250ml plain unsweetened yoghurt
285g flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
METHODPreheat your oven to 180 C and grease
and flour or line a large cake pan with
parchment – it must hold at least 3
litres. You can cook this in a bundt tin
if you wish, but make sure it is well
greased and floured.
You will need three bowls to make this
cake. It’s worth the dishes! Make sure you
have your lemon juice and zest all ready to
be added in at the appropriate stage.
Cream your butter and sugar together in a
large bowl and add in your egg yolks one
at a time. I was lucky enough to have some
beautiful free range eggs on hand from my
wonderful friend to make this with.
Your butter and sugar should be pale
and thick.Add the lemon zest, lemon
juice and yoghurt and stir to blend. It will
look like it has curdled at this point, but
don’t worry, it always looks like this.
In another bowl, sift together flour, baking
powder and baking soda. In the third bowl,
beat the egg whites and salt to stiff peaks.
Fold the dry ingredients into the butter
mixture and add in a spoonful of the
egg whites to loosen the mixture. Add
in the remaining egg whites and fold
until just mixed.
Pour into your prepared cake pan and
bake until a skewer inserted into the
middle comes out clean. In a bundt pan
this will be roughly 50 minutes.
If you have used another type of pan start
to check your cake every 10 minutes after
40 minutes in the oven and keep checking
until your skewer comes out clean.
Let stand for a few minutes then turn
out and cool on a rack. This cake can be
a little fragile when warm so go carefully.
For the Glaze
INGREDIENTS
115g icing sugar
2 tbsp. lemon juice
4 tbsp. plain unsweetened yoghurt
METHOD
I like to glaze mine when slightly warm
so that the glaze soaks into the cake.
Sift the icing sugar into a small bowl. Stir
in the lemon juice and yoghurt to make a
smooth glaze.
Put the cooled cake on a cake rack over
a large flat dish or piece of parchment.
Pour the glaze over and let it drip down
the sides.
Serve with yoghurt or cream on the side.
French Lemon Yoghurt Cake
26 www.eatmag.co.nz
Eat New Zealand Subscriber Giveaways
These elegant little light-as-air Friands are made with almonds as the nutmeal, and deep, dark, Black Doris plums. If you have to substitute another plum variety, use something that is a dark, juicy, sweet variety.
The recipe uses canned plums, but fresh would be fine too. If you are using fresh plums poach them lightly first.
Makes 12INGREDIENTS1 cup ground almonds1 1/2 cups icing sugar/powdered sugar1/2 cup plain white flour175 grams butter melted6 fresh egg whites6 canned or poached black doris plums: halved, stoned and strained
METHODPreheat the oven to 180˚C. Grease a
muffin or friand pan with melted butter. I used disposable mini cake-pans this time. Sieve together into a medium bowl your almonds, icing sugar and flour.
Whisk egg whites in a bowl to micro-bubble stage. This is past the large bubble stage but not to stiff peaks. Add cooled melted butter to egg whites and beat in.
Fold egg white and butter mixture into the dry ingredients and gently mix until there are no lumps. Spoon evenly into the greased pans.
Bake for four to five minutes and then gently place a plum half on each friand. Continue baking for another six minutes, then rotate the tray and cook for another 10 minutes.
Leave to cool in pans for five minutes before turning out. Dust with icing sugar.
Juicy Plum Friands
This month’s winners
• Giveaway #1: Grant Dicker Congratulations to Grant. You’ve won a beautiful set of Authentis Casual stemless wine glasses from Spiegelau!
• Giveaway #2: Sarah Belgrave Congratulations to Sarah.. You’ve won an awesome Wellington Gourmet Shopping Bag and a copy of The Dominion Post From the Menu cookbook from Moore Wilson’s!
• Giveaway #3: Diane Rodgers Congratulations to Diane. You’ve won a fun night out for two, with a double pass cooking experience from Social Cooking!
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or call 09 579 7451
for local stockists contact
or call 09 579 7451
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for local stockists contact
or call 09 579 7451
for local stockists contact
or call 09 579 7451
For local stockists contact [email protected] or call (09) 579 7451
28 www.eatmag.co.nz
DRINKS brought to you by Moore Wilson’s
Think Outside the Square: Sherry and
ShōchūWORDS BY Jules van Cruysen
Recently I have been lucky enough to attend a couple of tastings and meals which have challenged my preconceptions, most notably about sherry and shōchū
www.eatmag.co.nz 29
Recently I have been lucky enough to attend a couple of tastings and meals which have challenged
my preconceptions, most notably about
sherry and shōchū.
Sherry is one of my favourite drinks, so
I was understandably excited to attend
a tasting of sherries from cult producer
Equipo Navazos at Wellingtons, soon to
close, White House Restaurant.
I have long believed that sherry is hugely
underrated by the drinking public and am
dismayed when it is portrayed as a drink
fit only for grandma (that said, even the
much derided Harvey’s Bristol Cream
has its place). If you want to dip your
toe into the world of sherry, Auckland
Tapas bars Belotta and The Black Hoof,
Wellington’s Ortega Fish Shack and
Christchurch’s Saggio di Vino are great
places to start.
Equipo Navazos, was founded in 2005
by a cadre of around 30 sherry lovers
from all over the world when Jesús
Barquín (a criminal law professor who is
also the front man for Equipo Navazos)
discovered a selection of casks of
astoundingly good, old amontillado (a
style of sherry slightly darker and richer
than light fresh finos and manzanillas).
They selected the equivalent of one
cask (600 bottles) and bottled it for
their private enjoyment under the
name La Bota de Amontillado Navazos.
Two more private selections grew the
interest and enthusiasm of the wine
trade and since then the wines have
been marketed internationally.
Equipo (Team) Navazos search out
wonderful, old sherries and either
bottle these as is, or further cellar
them until they are ready to be bottled.
Unlike the commercial producers who
blend between growers and casks to
create uniformity year in, year out,
Equipo Navazos only bottle sherries
from an individual cask and are labeled
chronologically (the first wine was #1;
#43 - #46 are awaiting release) by style
and sometimes with further notes such
as “Bota NO” which denotes a superior
cask off limits to a blender.
30 www.eatmag.co.nz
DRINK
The wines are among the most singular, profound and rewarding I have ever tasted; and some the most challenging. They are not cheap ($65 to $160 per bottle), but compared to other similar quality wines from comparable fine wine regions like Champagne they offer exceptional value for money and are all a once in a lifetime experience.
Of the wines I tried #42 La Bota de Manzanilla and #36 La Bota de Pedro Ximenez were among the most appealing and consumer friendly. #42 was darker and richer than any manzanilla (typically a bone dry, light, fresh style), with roasted almond and praline but with the freshness, verve and delicacy of the style. #36, at the complete polar opposite of the spectrum was a wine of intense sweetness; beautifully integrated secondary flavours of coffee, cocoa and leather, yet with still enough freshness to not feel too heavy.
As well as these wines, Equipo Navazos also bottle still and sparkling table wines in collaboration with other Iberian producers such as Colet and Niepoort; these wines start at around $30. Unlike sherry, shōchū is something I have very little experience with. Masu, Nic Watt’s Robata Grill on Federal Street have recently introduced a ‘bottle keep’ program where Brandon Walker, bar manager at Masu will blend a bespoke infusion of shōchū, so that you can enjoy it whenever you dine at Masu. “We know our customers very much enjoy their shōchū and believe the idea of designing
your own will be very well accepted. It fits so well with our passion for flavour and dedication to detail.”
For those who have not tasted it before, shōchū is a single distilled Japanese liquor ranging from 15% to 25% abv. Typically rice based this category of beverage is also made with any number of grains, starches and fruits such as barley, rye, sweet potato, date and even kokuto, Japanese black sugar. According to Walker, “pretty much anything with natural sugar, they can make shōchū out of.”
Unlike spirits, which often take much of their flavour from whatever they have been stored in, shōchū varies depending
Brandon Walker
Shōchū
www.eatmag.co.nz 31
Jules van Cruysen is the editor of Eat NZ Magazine and a professional drinks writer and consultant. You can find him on twitter
The Eat New Zealand Drinks section is proudly sponsored by Moore Wilson’s Wine Direct. Find a great selection of wines, beers and spirits at great prices here.
on what it is made with, on one end of
the spectrum Walker describes 100%
rice shōchū as “very clean, very soft, very
smooth” where date shōchū is “really
rich, really aromatic” and sweet potato
“smells like cognac”.
Throughout the course of an afternoon
we tasted through six shōchū, several
infusions, as well as a fantastic umeshu
and sake. One of the most enjoyable was
Kagara Kuri Tensho, a chestnut shōchū
with beautiful notes of sweet fruit and a
creamy mouthfeel. This was served with
Masu’s signature dish of black cod roasted
over the robata grill with saikyo yuzu miso
and the depth and intensity of the flavours:
meaty fish, sweet/savoury miso and hint of
smoke from the grill, matched perfectly to
the creaminess and nutty sweetness of the
shōchū, much more completely than I can
imagine it matching to a wine.
These made way for richer, fuller ones,
with all the depth and complexity of a
fine whiskey or brandy. Hamada Kaido
Iwai No Aka Imo was the example of
sweet potato, made with deep ocean
water which had dark fruit notes
and spice - this was the one Walker
described as “tasting of cognac”.
After this we tasted through a range
of shōchū infusions, the base of many
cocktails at Masu but also the foundation
of the ‘bottle keep’ program. Based around
a 15% rice shōchū, these were unlike
spirit infusions as they retained freshness
and lightness. Date, dried apricot, feijoa
and tamarillo all bursted forth with their
natural flavours. I personally loved the
coffee, cocoa nib and cinnamon which
reminded me of the fantastic Pedro
Ximenez tasted at the Equipo Navazos
dinner and blended extremely well with
both the date and apricot fruit infusions.
Black Cod
FAMILY EATS
32 www.eatmag.co.nz
www.eatmag.co.nz 33
Sumac and Saffron Chicken
with BarberriesRECIPES BY Sanaz Motemasek
INGREDIENTS
6-8 Boneless Chicken Thighs
1 Onion, sliced
1 clove Garlic, crushed
2 tbsp. Sumac
1 Lemon, juiced
1 tsp. Saffron Threads
2 tbsp. Barberries
2 tbsp. Olive Oil
1 tsp. Salt
METHOD
In a small ramekin, place the saffron
threads in two tablespoons of boiling
water. Cover and allow to brew for at
least 30 minutes.
Mix onion slices, crushed garlic, lemon
juice, sumac, saffron, salt and olive oil in
a bowl and add the chicken pieces.
Ensure all the chicken pieces are
covered with the marinade.
Cover and refrigerate for at
least two hours (for best result
marinate overnight).
Place the chicken pieces on a baking
tray. Sieve the marinade over the
chicken pieces.
Bake in a hot oven at 220˚C for about 20
minutes or until golden. Test the chicken
pieces by cutting the thickest part and
see if juices run clear.
Once golden, sprinkle the barberries
over the chicken pieces and bake for
two minutes.
Serve with a salad, mint yoghurt and
lavash wraps.
Sanaz Motemasek, with her sister, writes My Persian Feast
34 www.eatmag.co.nz
Cooking kebabs or skewers on the BBQ this summer? Don’t overlook adding a lot more flavour by using woody herbs or spices in place of a wooden skewer. Rosemary, lemongrass and even new wood from citrus or apple trees work best!
TIPS AND TRICKS
Kebab with Rosemary
www.eatmag.co.nz 35
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“People who love to eat are always the best people.” -Julia Child