Earnshaw's | June 2015

VOLUME 99 NUMBER 5

B E R N I E L E I F E R O F S G C O M PA N I E S R E V E A L S H I S B E S T B E T S • L I C E N S E D T O S E L L • S H O P TA L K I N B R O O K LY N

JUNE 201 5 $10.00

SOPHISTICATED ACTIVEWEAR FOR EVERY SEASON

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

Kirby Stirland Associate Editor

Laurie Cone Associate Editor

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Mike Hoff Webmaster

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor

[email protected] editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

Circulation Office

[email protected]

CORPORATE 9Threads

Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

24

JUNE 2015

4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 10 Hot Properties 12 Fresh Finds 16 On Trend 34 Behind the Seams 40 Shop Talk

Limeapple jacket, RBX T-shirt, Agree2Disagree shorts, Puma socks worn with Dr. Martens sandals, ILoveGorgeous belt worn as choker, Ban.do and Kitsch hair accessories worn as jewelry.

On cover: Suoak blouse, Tommy Hilfiger pants, Fendi hat. Photography by Franck Malthiery/Kate Ryan Inc. Styling by Tara Anne Dalbow. Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia.

FEATURES14 Vote Now! It’s time to nominate your

Earnie Awards.

20 Character Study From evergreen icons to recent hits, industry experts reveal how to make the most of the surge in licensed sales.

22 Safe Bet SG Companies CEO Bernie Leifer divulges how he predicts winners in the unpredictable world of licensing.

FASHION24 Street Smart Activewear goes high style in Brooklyn’s trendiest nabe.

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Luxury to lifestyle branded footwear for men, women,

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editor’s note

AUDREY GOODSON [email protected]

FORGIVE ME FOR indulging in a moment of fandom, but I can’t be the only one who is a touch too sad about bidding adieu to Mad Men, which ended its run last month. I’ll admit I never warmed up to the central character, Don Draper, but I always tuned in for the exquisite costuming and set design.

After seven seasons of exploring that tumultuous

struck an optimistic note. (Fair warning: Spoilers ahead!) Advertising exec and creative guru Don is finally mellow-ing out at a hippie retreat on the California coast when the screen immediately cuts to another groovy scene: The

before I was born, but in a testament to the power of adver-tising, I instantly began singing the jingle along with those young people from around the world. It’s irresistible. Who wouldn’t want to teach the world to sing in perfect har-

It was a perfect send-off for a show about advertising, but it was also a fitting finale for a series that, dare I say, had an

equally large impact on fashion. When designer after designer sent

couldn’t have known how Mad Men would ultimately end,

behind. Watching that final episode, I was struck by how almost every outfit would be perfectly on-trend today.

So I decided to put the Mad Men stylists to the Earnshaw’s

right here in our office. Sure enough, our September, October -

houettes and styles spotted on the cast (and on fall runways), from flared pants and fringe to ponchos and jumpsuits. In

in kids’ collections that we dedicated our March Fall Fashion issue to the decade.

‘What goes around comes around’ may not be a new idea in the apparel world, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less valid. Shortly after that Coke commercial first aired, with its diverse array of men and women sporting peasant blouses and braids, an Earnshaw’s editor made this prediction in the September

-

before, bought it before, sold it before. And you’ll see it again,

It may be the end of an era for a critically acclaimed TV

series, but the show’s

styling proves the apparel industry is

always ready for rebirth.

Fashion

I love these groovy styles

from the September

1970 issue of Earnshaw’s.

Mad

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layette playwear outerwear bath bedding gifts accessories

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Does the decline of the American mall spell more trouble for mid-range children’s retailers? By Kirby Stirland

TalkingPoints

Middle GroundOW DO TWO popular chil-dren’s retailers go from shar-ing a majority piece of the market to facing uncertain futures? As the saying goes, it’s all about location, loca-tion, location, something The Children’s Place and

Gymboree are learning as they fight for con-sumers’ discretionary dollars from a disadvan-taged position—the middle. Wedged between upscale department stores and discount retailers, and at the mercy of the declining popularity of shopping malls, both chains are grappling with imminent store clo-sures. Gymboree plans to shutter 30 to 40 stores during the 2015 fiscal year, while The Children’s Place has accelerated plans for 200 store closures through 2017 (up from the proposed 125 stores through 2016). And stakeholders have even urged the latter to explore a potential sale.

It’s indicative of a growing diver-gence in the market, in which retailers at either end of the spec-trum—high and low—are succeeding while those in the middle are strug-gling, says John C. Melaniphy III, president of Chicago-based market analysis firm Melaniphy & Associates, Inc. That’s largely because mid-priced retailers’ primary customers “were more harshly impacted by layoffs and declining income” during the recession, he adds. Noel Hebert, a senior consumer credit analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence, agrees: “Off-price and high-end are working, which is reflective of the macroeco-nomic backdrop, and which hurts a Gymboree or The Children’s Place insofar as it shapes where shopping is happening.” As Melaniphy

points out, mid-range department stores like JCPenney and Sears “anchor approximately 700 of the country’s 1,200 regional malls, and their weakness has impacted mall-based spe-cialty retailers.”

Not to mention, many retailers right-sized their store portfolios and focused increasingly on e-commerce in the wake of the recession, but The Children’s Place did the opposite, growing to the tune of more than 1,100 stores in

the U.S. Additionally, the company was slow to close their underperforming stores, “especially mall-based stores in marginal markets without adequate income resources,” Melaniphy offers. “International expansion rather than domestic expansion would have been a more appropriate strategy.” These days, Hebert notes the go-to move is operating with a smaller store base and using alternative channels for growth, like e-commerce, wholesale, licensing and franchising.

Both Melaniphy and Hebert believe shut-tering underperforming stores will help both

chains, but it’s just a start. After all, it’s not just sluggish foot traffic at brick-and-mortar loca-tions that hurt sales: Both The Children’s Place and Gymboree experienced identity crises that alienated consumers. The Children’s Place failed to take the market’s temperature accurately during and after the recession, emphasiz-ing higher-priced and higher-margin items, Melaniphy notes. Unsurprisingly, this was a tough sell, particularly compared to what was

on offer at discount big box stores like Walmart, Kohl’s and Target.

Hebert suggests Gymboree made similar missteps, by pushing “toward a more fashion forward offering versus traditional matching tops and bottoms.” Additionally, Gymboree focused growth on Crazy 8, its value-priced brand, ultimately cannibal-izing an estimated 10 percent of its own sales. To that end, Hebert questions “brand connectivity” among the company’s three ban-ners— Gymboree, Janie and Jack and Crazy 8. “By deviating from the matching tops and bottoms that had defined the Gymboree banner, they lost customers which will be expensive to get back.”

But it’s not all bad news for mid-range retail-ers: Melaniphy expects children’s apparel sales to increase over the next year as con-sumer incomes and credit availability grow. He points to heightened birth rates among minority groups, noting that the children’s apparel market over the next few years “will be driven by more ethnically diverse custom-ers,” so retailers should take steps to appeal to a broad audience. And of course, children’s stores would be wise to heed that timeworn

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As an obsession with organization sweeps the nation, the concept is ripe for retail. By Kirby Stirland

TalkingPoints

More or LessF YOU’VE YET to clean out your closet according to the KonMari method of organiza-tion, you’ve likely heard all about it from someone who has. In her bestselling book The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up,

-ing expert Marie Kondo details her de-cluttering philosophy: Go through every single item in your home and get rid of anything that doesn’t “spark joy.” Store everything that’s left using Kondo’s specific techniques and you’re left with a peaceful, orderly space—not to mention room to spare.

Credit a post-recession penchant for frugality or increasing awareness of the environmental impact of consumption. Whatever the reason, the concept of streamlining has struck a chord with Americans. And if people are interested in paring down the possessions they already own, it’s bound to affect the way they shop.

Nadia Shouraboura knows a thing or two about streamlined selection—the former Amazon exec’s revolutionary retail concept, Hointer, marries the uncomplicated ease of e-commerce with the tactile experience of brick-and-mortar to create a minimal, Kondo-like effect. “Good curation makes or breaks a store,” she asserts. Shouraboura first put her technology to the test at her Seattle-based men’s store, where shoppers peruse denim, shirts and accessories from stark displays of single items. There’s no digging through piles to find a size or lugging loads of clothing through the store—with a few taps of a smartphone, shoppers’ sizes are sent to their fitting rooms from “mini-warehouses” in the back. Selection doesn’t take a hit with this strategy—by eliminating inventory on the floor, Shouraboura says she can actually offer

customers twice as much variety. Extra real estate in the store can be used creatively for customer-luring displays and events.

It’s all about creating a one-of-a-kind in-store experience, says Lula Aldunate, co-owner of Allegria, a children’s boutique in Brooklyn, NY. “My approach to merchandising has always been very curated,” she says of the shop, where whimsical décor and vintage furniture set the stage for clothing from global and local brands. Aldunate, a former magazine stylist and interior designer, says she always has the customer in mind when she visually composes the store. She wants shoppers to be able to find what they’re looking for easily, especially since she believes the recession left consumers more conscious of how much they spend—and that a more curated retail selection helps them determine whether or not they identify with a purchase. “I believe there is a growing niche that appreciates a sense of uniqueness,” she notes.

Of course, not all retailers are hopping on the curation bandwagon. Trang Lio, co-owner of Marcia’s Attic for Kids, a children’s store in

range of merchandise. “What makes shopping at our store a fantastic experi-ence is the breadth of assortment, not the depth,” she states. Further, offering a large selection “creates a shopping experience that requires good sales help,” which Lio cites as one of her store’s strengths, as well as a key reason shoppers choose Marcia’s Attic over department stores. Plus, their plentiful merchandise often results in what Lio calls “layered” purchases, wherein a customer will come in for a swimsuit and end up buying sunglasses, goggles and swim shoes to go with it. “Stores that have streamlined may not have all of those adorable extras to offer

the customer,” she adds. Shouraboura believes more retailers will

eventually move in the direction of streamlined merchandising, since it provides shoppers with a superior customer service experience. That’s the idea at Wild Was Mama, a Brooklyn, NY-based maternity and children’s boutique, where owner Adriane Stare plans to pare down the merchandise this year. “It’s just more navi-gable when it’s cleaner. It makes people feel a little bit more calm. If our goal is to keep people happy and here for a while, it needs to feel like there’s more breathing room. The last thing we want is to be another overwhelming baby store where you can’t wait to get out the door.”

But a shift toward this futuristic retail model doesn’t mean the death of brick-and-mortar, Shouraboura reassures. She believes shopping for kids’ apparel is best done in person, so you can feel fabrics for softness and experience product features. In fact, Kondo herself recently revealed that when she shops, she insists on touching every garment. It’s all part of her strategy to only purchase those items that—you guessed

IFor some retailers, clearing clutter isn’t just for closets.

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HOTP R O P E R T I E S

Rashti & Rashti and The Boppy Company are partner-ing for a collection of registry-ready baby clothing and accessories for Spring ’16. While Boppy is best known for its ergonomic nursing pillows, the new line sees the brand expanding into layette, plush toys, blankets and crib sheets, produced by licensee Rashti & Rashti. The products will showcase Boppy’s signature playful designs, including prints like Peaceful Jungle, with friendly lions, hippos and giraffes, and Backyard Blooms, a bright and cheery floral. Clothing and bedding will incorporate reversible prints, screen prints and appliqués; additionally, garments will have flat seams for maximum comfort. Apparel offerings for boys and girls, including jackets, bodysuits, buntings, leggings and sleepers, will be available in sizes 0 to 12 months. Toys are designed for tiny hands and include interactive features. Suggested retail prices range from $15 to $30 for apparel, $15 to $25 for bedding and $5 to $25 for plush toys. Email [email protected] for wholesale pricing. —K.S.

COMFORT, FUNCTIONALITY AND safety are at the core of Líllébaby carriers, but the brand set another goal for 2015: Release unique and exciting new prints on a variety of carriers to add an element of fun. Mission accomplished, thanks to the new partnership between Líllébaby and Japanese-inspired global lifestyle brand Tokidoki. The collection will feature the iconic rebel print on the Complete All Seasons and CarryOn Toddler carriers, expanding to the original Complete carrier and acces-sories in the future. Wholesale prices range from $86 to $96. Contact [email protected] for more infor-mation. —L.F.

Líllébaby releases a rebellious new carrier with Tokidoki.

VANS IS MAKING dreams come true in Fall ’15 with a new collection for kids of all ages. The skate brand is joining with Disney for a line of shoes, apparel and accessories that will include several footwear options for children and toddlers, along with hats, backpacks, shirts, socks, tees and tanks for men and women.

The playful new styles incorporate iconic Disney characters with a skate-inspired twist. On two versions of the Classic Slip-On, Mickey and Minnie Mouse swap their signature yellow footwear for sneakers (red for Mickey and pink for Minnie). On the Authentic lace-up, Winnie the Pooh is pictured with a skateboard (DIY’d from Hundred Acre Wood, of course) and a helmet fashioned from a beehive. The Era high top showcases a classic Disney collage print that incorporates Mickey and pals Goofy, Donald Duck and Pluto.

For two timeless West Coast brands,

All Ears

Beloved Disney characters adorn new Vans kicks for kids.

SPRING ’16 WILL see Super Mario jumping from TV screens to sidewalks with the launch of SG Companies’ new footwear line for boys. From slip-ons to sneakers to flip-flops, the line will feature images of Mario, Luigi, Yoshi and memorable items such as coins and mushrooms from the popular Nintendo games. Ranging in sizes 5-10 and 10-3, the line will wholesale for $3 for flip-flops and $8 for canvas slip-ons and athletic sneak-ers. Cushioned EVA, lightweight molded bottoms, novelty lights and colorful uppers make the collection stand out. While no girl-specific styles are currently available, SG Companies reports that they will be added to the mix for Fall/Holiday ’16. Contact rosiei@thesgcompanies .com for more details. —Lauren Fusilier

Super ShoesSG Companies teams up with Nintendo for a line of Super Mario footwear.

the collaboration is a natural one. “Vans and Disney both started in Anaheim, CA and we have a long history of working together,” explains Maddison Ek, product line manager for Vans Kids Classics. “Both Vans and Disney have a unique heritage and share an appreciation for the young at heart.”

Launching in June at Vans stores and mid-tier retailers nationwide, the shoes will be available in sizes toddler 4-10 to youth 10.5-4 and will wholesale for $21. Call the Vans sales line at (800) VANS-800 for more information. —Kirby Stirland

Baby Boom

Boppy branches beyond pillows with help from Rashti & Rashti.

Deft Punk

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R E S H F I N D S

It’s Natural To create a clothing line suitable for babies with sensitive skin, Peruvian mom Arly Sue Ayala went back to her roots. Made with 100 percent Pima cotton, as well as some pieces in 100 percent organic cotton, PillieMillie debuted its collection for boys and girls 0 to 24 months in March. Featuring dress sets, bodysuits, romp-ers, pants, shirts and overalls in classic shades of white, blue and pink, the line wholesales for $12 to $25. Smocking, ruffles and embroidered details such as delicate flowers and baby toys add a playful touch to the brand’s traditional styles. Visit www.pilliemillie.com.

From classic to color-changing, fall has it all.

Little Miss AttitudeMeet Splatter, an art project gone stylishly right, thanks to the brand’s one-of-a-kind spray-paint technique. Aside from the namesake print, catchy phrases and quirky screen-printed images like skulls, hearts and flowers pop up across an array of sweatshirts, tees, leggings and shorts for girls ages 4 to 14. Available in soft brushed cotton, thermal and fleece, vibrant hues of blue and pink join darker tones for fall. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $40. Check out www.splatterclothing.com.

Spanish Mission After its 2011 debut in Barcelona, Spanish brand Nobodinoz quickly became known in Europe for the bright colors, modern designs and eye-popping geometric patterns featured throughout its range of clothing, toys and furniture. After debuting at Playtime New York in March, the brand’s Euro-chic clothing is now available in the U.S. The Fall ’15 “Look At Me Now” collection epitomizes the Nobodinoz aesthetic: Look for black and white patterns and quirky prints featuring everything from cartoon mon-keys to pianos on a range of circle skirts, harem pants and furry vests available in sizes 3 months to 8 years. Manufactured in France and Spain, wholesale prices range from $6 for accessories to $75 for apparel. Visit www.nobodinoz.com.

Gilded AgeWant to add some American-made options to your selec-tion? Consider going golden—Golden, CO, that is. The city is home to Eddy and Scout, and it’s also where 100 per-cent of the company’s clothing is made. Formerly named Little Red Canoe, the brand re-launched at February’s KidSHOW in Las Vegas. Offering ultra-soft, grow-with-me sized clothing for boys and girls ages 2 to 12, the collec-tion’s extendable seams and double sizing give its dress-es, pants, hoodies, tops and leggings a longer life span and make the items ideal for lanky little ones. For Fall ’15, the collection takes inspiration from playing in the woods and features deeply saturated shades of red, teal, char-coal and moss green. Meanwhile, spunky screen-prints—think zip-lining squirrels and cityscapes—add edge to the earthy styles. Wholesale prices range from $16 to $28.50. Check out www.eddyandscout.com to learn more.

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Hot StuffTo accommodate the hot summers and mild winters of South Florida, Lauren Glazier launched Forest+Meadow. Available in sizes 2T through 5T, the brand offers stylish, tailored clothing in lightweight fabrics intended to beat the heat, such as linen and cotton. Classic sil-houettes, like dresses paired with matching bloomers and easy-to-layer pieces like vests, are modernized with fashion-forward prints, such as paisley and tie-dye. The Fall ’15 “No Baggage” collection, which wholesales for $18 to $38, takes inspiration from 1920s luggage—rich jewel tones in shades of orange, blue and charcoal are accented with vegan leather and vintage-inspired herring-bone prints. Visit www.forestandmeadow.com.

Oh, Canada With everything from fast food to goldfish prints, Toronto-based Ollie Jones transforms simple silhouettes from basic to brilliant. Originally launched in February 2014, the line of leggings, skirts, harem pants and headbands are printed on 100 percent organic cotton and cut, sewn and pack-aged in Canada. For Fall ’15, the brand’s “Wild Wild West” col-lection is packed with Aztec prints, sketched arrows, dream catchers and painted paddles, set against a neutral palette infused with pops of bright color. Wholesale prices range from $5 to $16. Learn more at www.olliejonesclothing.com.

Over the RainbowSay goodbye to ho-hum rainy days with Holly & Beau. The British brand, which debuted at ENK Children’s Club in March, brings its color-changing rain coats, macs and umbrellas stateside for Fall ’15. Available for boys and girls ages 2 to 8, the PVC-free rainwear comes in an array of quirky prints, featuring everything from monsters to cupcakes. Umbrellas wholesale for $10, while macs and coats are $30 and $39, respectively. The color-changing concept is sure to brighten any rainy day, while a polyester fleece lining adds warmth and keeps kids cozy. Check out www.hollyandbeau.com for more information.

City KidDisa NYC takes more than its name from its home base—all of the brand’s sophisticated, minimalist designs are handcrafted in New York City, too. Gleaning inspiration from the free-spirited wildness of childhood, the collection comprises a mix of modern silhouettes (think unisex garments like drop crotch pants) and traditional pieces (like dresses with underskirts and ruffled tunics). The fall collection includes sweatshirts, long-sleeved tees, corduroy pants, hoodies, denim and dresses in a classic palette of grays and blues, as well as bold shades like burgundy and magenta. Kid-inspired prints include puzzles, stars and chalkboard drawings. Available in sizes 2T to 6, wholesale prices range from $20 to $60. To find out more, see www.disanyc.com.

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Vote Now!Do you work in the children’s industry as a retailer, rep or brand executive? Would you like to recognize your favorite companies for a job well done in

Hosted by Earnshaw’s Magazine, the Earnie Awards honor outstanding brands in the children’s industry, as voted by the retail community. Since the Earnies are the only awards program voted on by industry experts, winning an Earnie Award signifies a valuable mark of recognition from the retail community.

Panel, which helped select our initial nominees. Comprising five seasoned

invaluable insight regarding the industry’s best brands across a broad range of categories, thus ensuring that the Earnie Awards go to brands that truly deserve a ringing endorsement from the retail community.

What are you waiting for? Visit www.earnieawards.com and nominate now!

EARNIE AWARDS

2 0 1 5

Best Hosiery

Best Footwear

Best Accessories

Best Outerwear

Best Swimwear

Best Dresswear

Best Denim

Best Sleepwear

Best Licensed Apparel & Accessories

Best Infants’ Collection

Best Boys’ Collection

Best Girls’ Collection

Best Tween Collection

Best International Collection

Best New Collection

Best Gifts

Best Baby Gear

Best Toys

“It” Item of the Year

Best Showroom

Company of the Year

THE CATEGORIES

NominationsJune 1-July 1

Nominees AnnouncedAugust 1

VotingAugust 1-September 15

Winners Announced at the Earnie Awards CeremonyOctober 19

THE DATES

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Carol YenneOwner, Small FrysSan Francisco, CA

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THE RETAIL ADVISORY PANEL

Alexis EylerOwner, Lollie Evanston, IL

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Ashlyn BartonOwner, Bonne NuitNew York, NY

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Denise KortOwner,Connie’s Children’s ShopSt. Clair Shores, MI

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Kendra La and Macy MulliganOwners, Plaid RabbitNashville, TN

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On Trend

Il Gufodress

Feather Drum jacket

Children’s Fashion from Spain

Molopants

Frankie & Sue

jumpsuit

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Velvet is no longer underground. Ushered in by last fall’s plush runway collections—like panne velvet dresses at Jason Wu and velvet tuxedo jackets from Sportmax—the fabric has made its way into the children’s market. Ever since the material first appeared in Europe in the 13th cen-tury, velvet has symbolized regality, and these tot-sized interpretations are no exception. Opulent and elegant, the rich texture injects every day and special occasion pieces with baroque grandeur. From accessories such as ballerina flats and bowties to dresses and blazers, velvet looks especially luxe in moody shades of purple, black and blue. Not to men-tion, the material’s smooth texture will keep kids cozy despite dropping temperatures. —Tara Anne Dalbow

Treatment

Royal

Couture Clips hair clip

Rachel Rileydress

Florence Fancyblazer

Tartine et Chocolat

blazer

Dolly by Le Petit Tomballet slippers

Fore!! Axel & Hudson

bowtie

On Trend

This fall, designers spin a magical tale capable of trans-porting little ones into their wildest dreams and favorite make-believe realms. Chock-full of unicorns, mermaids and fairies, fantasy creatures come to life on an array of girls’ dresses, tops and accessories. Taking a page from Valentino and Alexander McQueen’s Fall ’14 fairytale-themed collections, children’s designers infuse everyday wear with a magic once reserved for dress up. Look for hand-drawn doodles, embellished appliqués and clever accessories in a rainbow of enchanting colors to keep kids’ imaginations running wild. —T.A.D.

Fantasy Land

Yclu’

Adelaide hair clip

Brooklyn Owlunicorn headband

Factory in Brooklyn crayons

Fashion Angels watch

Mim-Pi gnome top and outfit

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Rosie Pope bodysuit

Hampton Mermaid Company

mermaid tail

New Jammies pajamas

Bumbums & Baubles

shoe

Angel Dearmermaid

top

Kira Kidsdress

Siaomimi Playdress

Lemon Loves Lime

dragon T-shirt

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O UNDERSTAND FROZEN mania, it helps to be a kid. But it also helps to understand the essence of licensing in the childrenswear industry. As Marty Brochstein, SVP of industry relations and information at the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA), explains, “A license has no value to a licensee unless it evokes some sort of emotion. It might be trust in a brand, sense of humor, design sense, nostalgia or loyalty to a team. That will forever be a factor in branding and

licensing—what does it make the purchaser feel?” So, it’s not all about the catchy chorus of “Let It Go.”

While particular franchises may go in and out of style, “kids have always been a mainstay of the licensing business,” Brochstein states. After all, little ones can’t help but reach for products bearing their favorite characters when they spot them on shelves, says Poonam Goyal, senior research analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence. It’s especially true today: Sales of licensed goods overall have been on the rise for several years. In fact, licensed products raked in $99.9 billion in retail sales in the U.S. and Canada in 2014, according to The Licensing Letter’s Annual Licensing Business Survey.

Retailers can cash in on that familiarity—as well as the purchase-driving emotional response that comes with it—not only by adding licensed products to their merchandise mix, but also by engaging with consumers on social media, creating eye-caching displays and staying up on the latest trends. As Richard Barry, EVP and chief merchandis-ing officer at Toys “R” Us, puts it, the success of licensed merchandise

“depends on the right balance of meaningful storytelling and compelling and inventive products.”

Want to ensure your store is striking the right balance? Read on for top tips from the licensing industry’s biggest experts.

THINK EVERGREENMajor entertainment licenses are an obvious choice when it comes to selecting licensed goods. Just look at Disney’s grasp on the market—the company owns three of the top five toy licenses according to NPD Group’s Retail Tracking Service (Frozen, Star Wars and Disney Princess). Sure enough, Barry notes ,“Disney licensed products are perennial favorites among customers across various categories” at Toys “R” Us. But Debra Joester, president and CEO of brand licensing agency The Joester Loria Group, advises retailers to strike a balance between “hot” and ever-green properties to provide their customers with more options. “The big entertainment properties have dominated the children’s business, commanding a growing market share,” she says. “But moms are looking for options, especially for their younger children.” Accordingly, more

SHOP class

BY KIRBY STIRLAND

With sales on the rise for recent blockbusters and beloved classics alike, experts reveal how to take advantage of the boom in licensed merchandise.

T The World of Eric Carle by

Jaxxwear

StudyCharacter

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and more retailers are rounding out their selection with

(a literary property with timeless appeal), classic labels

something like 40 percent growth over last season without

The Very Hungry Caterpillar, as well as classics like Madeline, Babar, Paddington and Clifford the Big Red Dog, noting

Goodnight Moon and Pat the Bunny

REMEMBER MOM

Care Bears, Strawberry Shortcake and My Little Pony

Not to mention, millennial moms are more likely to dress their little

KEEP IT TOGETHER

Star Wars goodies are

A LOOK AHEAD IN LICENSINGKeep an eye on these trending properties.

Frozen 2: So much for letting it go—this Disney blockbuster lives on with a much-anticipated sequel in the pipeline. A new line of kids’ rain gear from licensee Western Chief is on the way for holiday 2015.

Star Wars: The Force Awakens: Episode VII of the perenially popular franchise hits the big screen in December. No need to travel to a galaxy far, far away for products featuring its classic characters. Use the force of this licensewith cool R2-D2 knapsacks from MadPax.

Internet characters: Licensed products help prolong the shelf life of uber-viral web memes and mobile games. Emojis, Grumpy Cat, Plants v. Zombies, Doodle Jump and Candy Crush all seem to be clicking.

Avengers: Age of Ultron: Iron Man, Thor, The Incredible Hulk and Black Widow are back in theaters. Look for themed Lego sets and Hasbro action figures.

Minions: They stole the show in Despicable Me, and in summer ’15, they’re getting their own movie. Barry of Toys “R” Us expects they’ll be among the big film and TV licenses that “continue to dominate the playroom.” Keep your eyes peeled for Minions footwear from SG Companies this summer.


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Q&A

BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

Q&A

BetSafe

With three decades of experience picking hit

properties and producing bestselling footwear and

apparel for SG Companies, CEO and President

Bernie Leifer reveals the surprising secret to his frequent success—and what’s in store for the licensing powerhouse.

SUCCEEDING IN CHILDREN’S licensing is a bit like gambling in Vegas: It helps to have a strong stomach, deep pockets and more than a little assistance from lady luck. And, 34 years of experience in the licensing world certainly doesn’t hurt, if you’re Bernie Leifer, President and CEO of SG Companies.

at SG. Three short years later he was named CEO, and since then, he has established a reputation for picking a fair share of winners. He purchased the license to make Power Rangers

and a couple years later he snagged the right to make shoes for Pokémon, now the sec

brand in the world, behind Nintendo’s Mario

franchise. (Speaking of, SG Companies is launching a line of Mario footwear this fall.)

But Leifer’s biggest winning bet had a much

try as a whole: He was one of the first to fully capitalize on character footwear for children. While it’s hard to imagine now, before SG’s expansion into the market, it was rare to spot Mickey or Mario on a kid’s foot. Accordingly, Leifer’s contribution to the category earned the CEO a coveted spot in LIMA’s Licensing Industry Hall of Fame, alongside household names like Walt Disney, George Lucas and

While he may be an industry scion, don’t make

formula for identifying blockbuster properties. His secret to predicting Power Rangers and Pokémon would be a hit? “I honestly don’t know,”

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-Star Wars -

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Goosebumps

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What makes a licensed property a good fit for SG?

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That’s right—there are always sur-prises. No one anticipated the Frozen phenomenon would be such a huge suc-cess. How do you predict how popular a particular license will be?

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So how do you know what’s a good bet? -

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B E R N I E L E I F E RUP CLOSE WITH

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What are you reading right now? I’m reading about five different books in various stages. My wife laughs at me because I never finish them. I have one that’s so dog-eared she says, “That book has been around the world eight times already.”

What’s the best movie you’ve seen recently? I loved Boyhood, The Imitation Game and Whiplash.

What’s your favorite way to spend a free afternoon?I have eight grandchildren, and I enjoy going to their sporting events. Or, on Friday evenings my wife and I drive up to the Berkshires. We go over a very beautiful bridge on the Croton Reservoir, and when we cross that bridge my blood pressure drops about 30 numbers. My wife always says, “This is the guy that I fell in love with.” She likes me when I’m on the other side of the bridge. [Laughs.]

What’s your favorite part of the day?I live on the Hudson River, and I wake my wife up every morning at 6 a.m. with a cup of cof-fee. About eight months out of the year we’re able to go out and sit on our balcony and watch the sun come up over the river. That’s a very special half hour I spend with my wife every morning.

What three things would you bring with you on a deserted island?I would like to say three grandchildren, but five of them would be very upset with me. I would take my wife, a great book and maybe a fly rod. I like to fly fish. And maybe a great bot-tle of wine.

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25

Nike tank top, Mini Rodini sweatshirt, Hudson Jeans shorts,

Native slip-on sneakers, Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses, Kitsch

and Ban.do hair accessories worn as jewelry throughout.

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Nununu metallic dress, Bonpoint sandals, Puma socks, ILoveGorgeous belts; Suoak blouse, Tommy Hilfiger pants, Dr. Martens boots, Fendi hat.


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Tommy Hilfiger wind-breaker, Girl & Co. by Limeapple dress worn over Malibu Sugar tank, ILoveGorgeous belt.

Opposite page: Mini Rodini jacket, Butterflies & Zebras tank worn under Puma jersey top, Suoak pleated skirt, Bonpoint sandals, Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses.

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Hudson Jeans shortall, Malibu Sugar long sleeve top and tank, Dr. Martens boots, ILoveGorgeous belt.


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Fendi neoprene dress, Butterflies & Zebras leggings, Oliver Goldsmith sunglasses, ILoveGorgeous belt; Malibu Sugar top worn under Chalk NYC jumpsuit, Tommy Hilfiger backpack, Kitsch headband.

Opposite page: Paul Smith sweatshirt worn over Suzette camisole, MarMar Copenhagen cardigan tied over shoulder, Roberto Cavalli skirt, Chooze high top sneakers, Kitsch headband.

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Jak & Peppar plaid shirt, The Dragon and the Rabbit culottes, Jak & Peppar knit hat, stylist's own vintage belt and knee socks, Sven clogs; Anasai blouse worn over Millions of Colors turtleneck

sweater, Tuchinda bell bottoms, Happy Socks polka dot socks, stylist's own leather hat.

Opposite page: Anasai button-down, Barque vest, Ralph Lauren Childrenswear cardigan, Mayoral Nukutavake pants.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL

T WAS DURING a womenswear trade show that Leah Delfiner realized she had been designing for the wrong demo-graphic. “Everyone who came up to my booth was a kid—they loved all the bright colors and tutus,” she explains, “and I realized that I was designing for a 4-year-old and not

Delfiner got her start in the fashion industry as an intern

-oped her taste for rock-and-roll-meets-pop-princess style, as well as her penchant for tutus and all things pink. “She really inspired me

from her passion and excitement for the industry.” After finish-

-

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inspired by a different rock and roll artist with past muses ranging

princess feel perfectly.” Each collection is built on a foundation of

not just fashion—it has that dress-up feel. I want kids to feel like rock stars when they wear it.”

could switch from school to soccer practice without sacrificing any-thing in the way of fun. Realized in a palette of pink, black and white,

with an edgy flair,” notes Delfiner, adding that every piece in the col-

free to play.

collection is in store, as well as a line of rock and roll accessories.

clothes and fashion,” she exclaims. “Children are the most fashion-able people.” —Tara Anne Dalbow

I

Inspired by her stint at Betsey Johnson, a new designer shrinks her rock and roll style down to pint size.

RebelRebel

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HAT’S COOL AND absorbent and soft all over? Muslin. That’s why the fabric is the cornerstone of the Aden + Anais brand, says CEO Raegan Moya-Jones. From blankets to bedding to toys, it’s all about

muslin. And in July, the brand will bring the breathable cotton to layette.It all started for Aussie mom-to-be Moya-Jones in 2003. A transplant

to New York City, Moya-Jones was surprised to find that the basic mus-lin blankets Australian moms loved for swaddling were nowhere to be found stateside. “I wondered how American mothers did without them. I just thought every Aussie can’t have it wrong—I should introduce these to the U.S. market,” she recalls.

It took three years to get the designs right and find a manufacturer to produce the quality she sought, but Moya-Jones didn’t relent—and her persistence paid off. Today, Aden + Anais sells in thousands of shops across 63 countries and is listed on over 95 percent of registries at major big-box stores like BuyBuy Baby. Staying true to the brand’s authentic-ity is at the core of this success, Moya-Jones attests. “Mums respond to the fact that it’s a mother of four making the decisions from the point of view of a mother, instead of a business person,” she notes.

The decision to expand into layette felt very natural. “We’ve wanted to do this for years, but it was very important to figure how to get the design right, and that’s taken time,” she admits. The open weave of the brand’s muslin fabric—the very thing that makes its blankets so soft, absorbent and breathable—is challenging to work with when it comes to apparel, Moya-Jones admits, as it can be difficult to shape, sew and layer. To solve the dilemma, she sought experts to help recreate the brand’s well-known aesthetic and quality.

The collection, for babies 0 to 12 months, spans rompers, body suits, kimonos and separates, from bloomers to tunics. The signature muslin options come in sleeveless, short and long-sleeve styles. Jersey hoodies and pants with muslin details are also available. Signature prints include stars, hearts and stripes in hues ranging from soft silver to traditional pink and blue, with pops of vibrant fuchsia and ultramarine. Suggested retail pricing ranges from $14.95 to $34.95, and retailers can call (718) 801-8432 for wholesale prices.

As for the future, Moya-Jones hints at more exciting news to come. “I believe we’ve built the foundation for a brand that will last a really long time. Product innovation is part of that growth,” she says. And with an ever-expanding global reach, she believes there’s plenty of potential for growth in store. —Lauren Fusilier

WMaterial

World

Aden + Anais brings its signature high-quality muslin to layette for summer.

$3 million and the horse never even gets to the track. It’s the same thing in licensing. Some of it is instinct, and some of it is ana-lytics. If it’s a TV show, what’s the amount of air time? If it’s a movie, what studio is put-ting it out: Universal, DreamWorks or Disney? That’s the equivalent of knowing the father and mother of the horse, but it doesn’t guar-antee anything.

What have been some of SG’s big wins over the years?I looked at Power Rangers in 1993, and I was enamored with the presentation and the fresh-ness of the brand. We got the license for a very low number—in our first year we paid them over $5 million in royalties, which was unheard of in 1994. We were similarly surprised by the success of our Teletubbies, Pokémon and Bratz licenses. You’re always pleasantly surprised when you hit a home run. You always hope for it, but very seldom do you get home runs.

What inspired you to purchase some of

your more successful licenses like Power Rangers and Teletubbies?I honestly don’t know. It’s a feel. Licensing is a risky business. Lots of people try and get into it—they buy a license and invest lots of money, time and effort into product develop-ment, and if it doesn’t win, they get out of the business. You have to have either very deep pockets or a big stable. We buy lots of licenses that never sell a single pair. You either have the stomach for it or you don’t.

Obviously you have to have great product, too. What’s your secret?You hire terrific talent. I’m not particularly great at the product, but I’m pretty good at picking good people. Since we’re a sizable com-pany, we can afford to bring in talented peo-ple in all the various disciplines, from design and sales to marketing, IT and sourcing. Elisa Gangl, our vice president of licensing and mar-keting, and Mike Diablo, the president of our apparel division, have both been in the licens-ing business for over 30 years.

SG creates everything from Levi’s Signature jeans for Walmart to private label footwear for Nordstrom. You must have entirely different strategies for each market tier.There are different strategies, there are differ-ent sales methodologies and there are differ-ent materializations. You have to know your consumer. The gatekeeper is the retailer, but at the end of the day, we’re selling to a con-sumer. So we have to know who they are, and what they’re looking for. And with omnichan-nel and everything else, it’s a very challenging endeavor. If you’re not ready to move with the times, you’re going to slowly disappear.

Speaking of omnichannel, has the increase in online shopping impacted the children’s licensing market? In character footwear, probably not—or at least much less so than in fashion footwear.

But you have seen a shift toward direct-to-consumer in your fashion lines?Yes. Many times—especially with smart-

continued from page 23Q&A

© Disney

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Technology is changing the way business has

Would you say that’s the biggest challenge in the licensing industry today?

-

70-years-old!

Digital properties like Angry Birds and Grumpy Cat seem to be the next big thing in licensing. Do you agree?

Sesame Street or Strawberry Shortcake -

Where do you see the biggest growth for SG in the future?

--

How about in the children’s market in par-ticular? Where do you see the potential for growth?

--

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Do you think direct-to-consumer is the future of retail?

reach a point where the growth will either slow -

So you see some white space for SG in the upper-tier market?

strength is selling large quantities at low mar-

-

T. 866-262-2654www.coccoli.com

Layette - Toddler - KidsSleepwear Daywear

&ĂůůͬtŝŶƚĞƌ�ϮϬϭϱ�ƐƚŽĐŬ�ĂǀĂŝůĂďŝůŝƟĞƐcan be viewed on Brandboom

EARN_01_06_q&a_01.indd 37 5/27/15 12:38 PM

continued from page 21SHOP classeasy for [consumers] to find more, they’re likely to buy more.”

Goyal points to shops-in-shops, like the Disney ones at JCPenney and Macy’s, as a great way to leverage a popular license. “Let’s say you’re selling Disney’s Frozen girls’ apparel. You could also be selling the Olaf plush, a sippy cup, a backpack and a board game.” She says smaller retailers can replicate this effect by concentrating licensed products in one area of the store in a dedicated display. “When you have a popular license agreement, don’t scatter stuff everywhere,” she advises. “When you put everything together it just has a more pronounced effect, whether it’s in a big store or a small store.”

Jones says Jaxxwear’s Eric Carle garments sell “exceptionally well” when paired with corresponding mini board books and developmental stroller games. To facilitate this at specialty retailers, the company bundles a small collection of books and toys with their clothing. (One added benefit is that stores don’t have to meet publishers’ or distribu-tors’ minimums.) “We have seen much stronger sell-throughs overall when a specialty retailer creates an Eric Carle display that’s not just clothing,” she says. Similarly, Obsgarten says Kids Preferred contributes plush and beanbag toys to Eric Carle book displays at Barnes & Noble.

Gina Rothwell, owner of Sol Baby in Hermosa Beach, CA, also creates themed displays in her boutique. “The Bob Dylan raglan tee looks great next to his Forever Young book as well as the One Love book alongside my Bob Marley onesies,” she describes, adding that she does the same with Star Wars toys and books, which she pairs with Junk Food tees bearing Chewbacca and R2-D2.

Consistent cross-channel merchandising extends to the web as well. Barry says Toys “R” Us emphasizes key licenses through “online hubs” that showcase products and content relevant to a particular license, “providing customers with immersive, digital destinations where they can shop and explore their favorite properties all in one place.”

BE SOCIALIt’s no secret that social media is a marketing must, but it’s especially true when it comes to licensed products. After all, what better place to find potential customers than the immensely popular Facebook page or Instagram account of a beloved property? (Star Wars, for example, has 1 million Instagram followers and 13 million fans on Facebook.) Take advantage of the “tribe identity” felt by the fans of a particular prop-erty, Jones advises, noting that The World of Eric Carle has a fiercely loyal and actively engaged social media following, and that whenever Jaxxwear apparel is mentioned on one of the brand’s channels, there’s an uptick in purchases. To get in on the action, tag brand names, use relevant hashtags in Instagram, Twitter and Facebook posts and ask questions that encourage engagement.

Even better, certain licenses come with tailor-made social media opportunities. Rothwell says she often promotes her popular Rowdy Sprout products through social media posts that correspond with an artist’s birthday or historic moment. (A Facebook post from February marks Bob Marley’s birthday with a photo of Sol Baby’s reggae-themed tees and one-pieces.)


GET AHEAD Savvy retailers know that identifying the next hot property is key to maximizing licensed sales, but as Brochstein points out, the Frozen hysteria “illustrated the fact that even the biggest, most sophisticated companies can be surprised.” After all, many major retailers—and even Disney execs—didn’t anticipate Frozen’s runaway success. “It’s an object lesson in that every time you think that you know licens-ing and can predict who the winners and losers are going to be, you don’t,” he adds.

That being said, there are still a few trends worth exploring. First, look for the traditional boundaries between “boys” and “girls” to con-tinue to be blurred. Case in point: DC Entertainment recently teamed up with Warner Brothers and Mattel for a reimagined superhero universe especially for girls featuring toys, apparel, books and media. Brochstein sees a “lack of firm gender lines in toys and themes” as an emerging trend in licensed products. He cites The Hunger Games franchise as spurring a “girl empowerment” theme that seems to be gaining traction. Even Amazon is following suit by doing away with categorizing children’s toys by “boys” and “girls.”

Second, look for sales of licensed goods to expand beyond the conventional big-box shop, as more and more of today’s consumers seek quality over quantity. Joester says there is “definitely room for quality-designed product with a brand attached to it,” and Jones agrees. “Historically, a lot of licensed products have been geared toward moderate and mid-priced retailers,” she notes. But as parents increasingly gravitate toward less generic baby clothing, “there’s a huge opportunity to combine licensed characters with fashion and cater to a whole niche in the market that identifies with a brand and prefers to buy a better quality garment or a fashion outfit—not a silkscreened onesie, but something unique.”

No trend forecast in the 21st century would be complete without a mention of tech. When it comes to kids’ toys, there is, indeed, ‘an app for that.’ Obsgarten says apps are, in a way, “a new form of toy,” adding that they contribute to the world of licensing by “enforcing an existing character in a new way or creating new characters.” BirthdayLand, a newly launched Kids Preferred license, combines tactile toys and digital entertainment. When consumers purchase BirthdayLand plushes, they get a code that unlocks games and other features in the corresponding app. (The line is currently exclusive to Toys “R” Us, but will expand to other retail channels in the fall.) Obsgarten expects to see more and more consumer products inspired by characters from apps, mobile games and social media in the near future.

And it’s not just toys that are getting a tech-inspired makeover, with everything from the popular gaming app Angry Birds to Internet celeb-u-pet Grumpy Cat popping up on kids’ apparel. Plus, a growing number of clothing lines are now designed by teen YouTube stars like Bethany Mota (for Aéropostale). So how does a busy retailer keep up with quickly shifting digital trends? Thankfully, licensing leaders are plugged into the need to educate the industry about the emerging category—this year’s Licensing Expo featured a new Digital Media Licensing Summit to “introduce licensees, retailers and manufactur-ers to a new world of licensing partnerships with globally–recognized digital brands and stars,” says Jessica Blue, VP of the expo. As she puts it, “Part of our role as the world’s largest licensing trade show is to support the industry in staying current with popular youth culture

Fisher Price ad TK


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1. Stare’s son loves his purple Apple Park lunch pack, which is also one of the store’s steady sellers. (www.applepark.com)

2. “This is our second season picking up Oeuf, which is a tried-and-true New York City staple. We carry so many basics that Oeuf was a different tier for us, but it’s amazing. The quality is so impressive. It’s our favorite new brand.” (www.oeufnyc.com)

3. “We always go to Playtime New York. I think they do a good job of curating suppliers. We’ve been turned on to a lot of great

brands there.” (www.playtime newyork.com)

4. New batik rompers by children’s brand Tuk-Tuk Anouk “have a handmade quality, which fits in well with our store, since we have a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces.” (www.tuktukanouk.com)

5. Stare believes there’s a big untapped market for stylish maternity wear that doubles as nursing apparel, from brands like Boob Design. “The clothes are high quality and they actually do fit for pregnancy and then transition into nursing.” (www.boobdesign.com)

shop talkBeyond Baby

ADRIANE STARE FIRST Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood to give her friends and fellow moms a place to meet and mingle after they kept getting

classes a month on everything from babywearing to breastfeed-ing, the shop has become an area institution for new parents in need of support—which inspired Stare to change the name to

Wild Was Mama earlier this spring. “I feel like for four years we’ve been pretending to be a baby store, but we’re really a store for parents and moms in particular,” she explains. And with a new location in nearby Park Slope opening this fall, even more parents will be able to take advantage of the boutique’s wide array of educational workshops, must-have maternity ap-parel and baby essentials. —Audrey Goodson Kingo

6. Netherlands-based Kokoro will make its retail debut at Wild Was Mama—but Stare expects the urban-inspired wraps to sell out in about an hour. “When they do a stocking on their website, the wraps sell out in seconds.” (www.kokorotextiles.com)

7. A new find, she calls Au Lait’s tank with slits on the side “an ideal pumping shirt” for working moms. (www.aulaitshop.com)

8. Well Rounded NY is one of her favorite maternity blogs. (www.wellroundedny.com)

9. When it comes to shoes, Stare sticks to brands that offer functional first-walkers with great fit. “Pediped makes a machine-washable sandal, and I will always buy them.” (www.pediped.com)

10. Due in part to her passion for babywearing, wraps are a top-selling category. Handwoven wraps by West of the Fourth Weaving “feel like wrapping with the softest blanket or towel ever. You can totally beat them up and wear them in, and they last a lifetime.” (www.west4th weaving.com)

11. Customers love Fjällräven’s totes that transition into a back-pack, a perfect bag for baby-wearing. (www.fjallraven.us)

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Adriane Stare often counsels customers on the shop’s comfy sofas.

Vida Kids - A Division of Vida Shoes International +1.212.246.1900 | 29 West 56th St New York, NY 10019 www.vidagroup.com

2014 Footwear Plus Excellence in Design Children’s Footwear

For over 40 years Vida Shoes International has been a leading supplier of footwear in the United states. With a strong portfolio of both licensed and proprietary brands, Vida Kids has been recognized as the expert in kids footwear designs. With styles ranging from rugged outdoors to play to dress, we create shoes for all ages of kids from newborns to teens

Brought To You By The Premier Footwear Licensee Of

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