E journal jul aug 2012

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ISSN 0368-4636

July-August 2012

Volume 73 No. 2

ContentsContents

The Textile Association (India)(Founded 1939)

National President

Mr. D. R. MEHTA

National Vice-President

Dr. ANIL GUPTA

Chairman

Mr. K. D. SANGHVI

Vice-Chairman

Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA

Hon. Gen. Secretary

Mr. V. D. ZOPE

Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary

Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH

Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA

Hon. Treasurer

Mr. V. N. PATIL

Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board

Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI

Chairman P.A.C.

Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY

Chairman B.P.C.

Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR

EDITORIAL BOARD

MEMBERS

OFFICE BEARERS

Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELIInstitute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHATechnical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai

Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKARInstitute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, Bangalore)

Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai)

Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai)

Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (LEITAT, Spain)

Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai)

Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRI (Texastech University, USA)

Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur)

Published by PAVITRA PUBLISHERMr. J. B. SOMA (Publisher)

7A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS.,Near N.N.P. No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi,

Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065.M.: 9819801922

E-mail : [email protected] / [email protected]

Printed at :Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai

JTA is a Blmonthly Publication of

Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India,67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028.

Phone : (91-22) 2446 1145 • Fax (91-22) 2447 4971E-mail : [email protected] / [email protected]

www.textileassociationindia.org

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

JTA is Abstracted By :

Chemical Abstracts,

World Textile Abstracts,

USA

UK

Indian Science Abstrats,

Texincon,

India

India

Editorial

To be OR not to be

by Prof. (Dr.) R. V. Adivarekar

69

Fibre Packing in Modified Ring Yarnby R. Ramachandran, P. Kanakaraj & B. S. Dasaradan

73

Application of Tamarind Seed Coat in Dyeing of Cotton and Silk using Catechu and Heenaby M. D. Teli, Javed Sheikh, Kushalkumar Mahalle,

Vijendra Labade & Rupa Trivedi

90

Development and Investigation of Recycled Fibre Nonwovens for Acoustic Absorbing Materialsby H. Rammohan & T. Ramachandran

96

Texperience

Environmental Concerns In Textile Processingby C. N. Sivaramakrishnan

105

Texnotes

Nanotechnology Based Finishing :The Expanding Field in Textilesby Chet Ram Meena & Neha Khurana

107

OTHER FEATURES

Unit Activities

News

Advertisement Index

Conference

Forthcoming Events

109110124125126

Bamboo Fibre and its Propertiesby Shankar GL & T. Ananth Krishnan

78

Characteristics of Pre-heated Air Jet Textured Yarnsby M. Y. Gudiyawar & Neha Hinge

81

Studies of Bi-Functional Reactive Dyes on Viscose Rayon Filament Yarnby Dipankar Das, Anurag Vashistha & Daksh Jain

86

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Textile industry is one of the largest and oldest industries in the world. Worldwide, textile production and consumption have followed a long term growth rate of about 2–3% per year, the recent economic recession not withstanding. In the last two decades, textile processing has become increasingly concerned to achieve and demonstrate sound environmental performance by controlling the effect of their activities, products and processes taking into consideration its environmental policies and objectives. For having a sustainable production, these parameters are of immense importance and need to be focused on. Sustain means “to maintain” or “ to uphold” and with regard to industrial processes sustainability means establishing those principles and practices which can help to maintain the equilibrium of nature in other words to avoid causing irreversible damage to the earth's natural resources (needless to say with economic equilibrium too). To move to a larger degree of sustainability in our industrial processes and systems, achieving a better balance between the social, economic and environmental aspects of textile production is required.

The textile industry particularly wet processing sector of its value chain, is one of the most polluting industry sectors. An enormous range and quantity of chemicals are used at every stage and the after- effects in terms of wastewater treatment and air pollution are crucial to manage (Read expert view on this under the column TEXPERIENCE). Thus there is a strong need to establish more sustainable textile processing measures in the industry. Looking at this dire need of the industry, Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT) is organising a conference, “Texsummit 2012” on the topic, “Building a Sustainable Value Chain Through Green Chemistry –

thFLORISH OR PERISH ?” during ITME 2012 on 5 Dec. 2012.

To maintain and uphold the sustainability of our Journal of Textile Association, efforts are being made to make this esteemed journal as a peer reviewed journal. Peer review is the process of subjecting an author's scholarly manuscript to the scrutiny of others who are experts in the same field, prior to publication in a journal. Peer

EditorialEditorialTo be OR not to beTo be OR not to beTo be OR not to beTo be OR not to be

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review methods are employed to maintain standards, improve performance and provide credibility. Researchers overwhelmingly agree that the main area of effectiveness of peer review is in improving the quality of the published paper, and it improves their own published paper, including identifying scientific errors and missing and inaccurate references. Peer-review is a critical part of the functioning of the scientific community, of quality control, and the self corrective nature of science. For the process, typically, the journal editor will give a submitted paper to a small number of qualified peers – recognized experts in the relevant field. The reviewers will then submit their views on the paper along with a recommendation to reject, accept with major revisions, accept with minor revisions, or accept as is. The process, although at times painful, is quite useful in not only checking the quality of submitted work, but improving the quality.

Since peer reviewing of an article enhances the credibility of the article, the number of other researchers referring it increases and hence the IMPACT FACTOR of the journal increases. Impact factor, often abbreviated IF, is a measure reflecting the average number of citations to recent articles published in science and social science journals. The higher the IF, the more academic authors and researchers will want to publish in the journal (as this is an acknowledged measure of the academic worth of their work – and is an influential factor in allocation of research funding and in academic promotion). This will lead to an increase in the quality of papers published and make the results of our research more accessible for industry practitioners.

With a hope of enhancing the standing of our journal, I hope to receive an overwhelming response and support from our readers and authors for our transformation.

Prof. (Dr.) R. V. AdivarekarProf. (Dr.) R. V. Adivarekar

Editor, JTA

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(Sta

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SPINNING

1. IntroductionMany research workers have studied the yarn struc-ture, and its relation to yarn properties, but they haveadopted chiefly the tracer fiber technique of Mortonand Yen [1] - not much information is available in theliterature on the cross-section cutting method of study-ing yarn structure. In the cross-section study, the cen-tre of gravity of yarn structure is first calculated andthen the area of cross-section is divided into class in-tervals of equal width as suggested by Hamilton [2].However, Hearle [3] has preferred zones of equal areaso that the fibers are equally distributed among all zones.The results obtained by using both the methods shouldbe identical for the same cross-section provided thatthey are calculated per unit area.Irregularities in the distribution of fibers in the yarncross-section can significantly affect yarn properties.This is particularly true with yarns made from intimateblends of different fiber types, where the appearanceand the surface and even mechanical properties will beinfluenced by the distribution of the blend componentsin the cross-section [4].In the polyester cotton blended yarns, as a consequenceof the manner in which spinning is made; distribution ofdifferent fibers in the yarn cross-section is also pos-sible.

This study aims to understand the nature of fiber pack-ing of the treble rove feed yarn.

2. Methodology2.1 The MachineThe machine used in this study is Lakshmi Rieter G5/1 ring frame of 70mm gauge, 144 spindles, 210 mm liftand 36 mm ring diameter specification. It was em-ployed to conduct various trials. However, the ring frameas such could not be used since this study involvedfeed of 3 roving to a spindle in such a manner that thecotton component occupied the cover material, and poly-ester staple occupied the core material. Hence, minormodifications were made in the ring frame. The result-ant mixing composition was 67% cotton and 33% poly-ester.

2.1.1. Modifications at Ring FrameThe following modifications were made to the ring frame

� Roving separator guide fixed at the rear side of theback drafting roller and middle drafting roller.

� Roving traverse motion was disconnected.� Grooved bar mechanical system was fixed sepa-

rately.

Fibre Packing in Modified Ring Yarn

R. Ramachandran*, P. KanakarajDepartment of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology

&B. S. Dasaradan

Department of Fashion Technology, Angel College of Engineering and Technology

AbstractYarn properties are chiefly dependent on the properties of the constituent fibers and their disposition inthe body of the yarn, i.e. the yarn structure. Yarn structure is again influenced by the specific spinningsystem. Within a system, certain spinning and processing parameters also vary the structure quitesignificantly. The influence of strand spacing, twist factor and linear density on the packing density oftreble rove feed yarn was measured and analysed using ANOVA. There is a high degree of influenceof all these variables on the packing of yarn.

Key wordsInteraction , Packing Density, Treble rove yarn , Yarn structure, Yarn core and surface.

* All correspondence should be addressed to,R.RamachandranDepartment of Fashion Technology,PSG College of Technology, CoimbatoreEmail : [email protected]

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July - August 201274

Figure 2.1: Grooved bar systemA - GrooveB - Groove PlateC - Plate holder

Figure 2.2 : Material flow through grooved bar system

2.1.2. Feature of Grooved BarMechanical System :� Specification

Total length : 530 mmDepth of Groove : 1 mmWidth of Groove : 1 mmLength of Groove : 10 mm

� It is fixed on the drafting roller stand, after frontroller nip, so that the middle polyester strand passedunder the controlled path of the groove. This ar-rangement made the tail ends of the relatively short-cotton fibres of the two outside strands to migratefreely, entangle and spin around the polyester strand.

This system gave required tension to the three strands,enabling the cotton strands to cover the polyester.

2.2. Preparation of the yarn samplesDetails of polyester and cotton fibers used in this studyare given in Tables 2.1 and 2.2 respectively. Polyesterstaple fibers supplied by a commercial fiber producerwere used.

Table 2.1 : Polyester Fiber Properties

Fiber length (mm) 38Fiber denier 1.2Fiber Tenacity (cN/Tex) 60.3Elongation at break (%) 5Spin finish (%) 0.18

Table 2.2 : Cotton Fiber Properties

Cotton Fiber DCH 32 (100%)2.5 % Span length (mm) 28.4050 % Span length (mm) 13.99Tenacity (cN/Tex) 25.2Micronaire value 3.2Trash content (%) 4.2Maturity co-efficient 0.82Uniformity Ratio 49.0Elongation at break (%) 5.2

The polyester and cotton materials were processed fromblow room to speed frame in the usual manner. In thecotton material, about 15% short fibers were combed.The roving so produced was fed to ring frame. Therove having a hank of 0.2 k.tex (3.0 Ne) was the feedstock to ring frame for the spinning of 36.9, 19.7, 14.8,11.8 and 9.8 Tex (16, 30, 40, 50, 60 Ne) yarns.

2.2.1. Process VariablesThree levels of Twist factors namely, 38, 42 and 46 tex0.5tp cm, and three levels of strand spacing namely0mm, 4mm and 8mm were used for producing treblerove blended yarn of 33% polyester and 67% cotton inthis study in order to ascertain the influence of strandspacing and twist on yarn properties.

2.3 Testing MethodsAll the samples were conditioned at 650 + / - 2 % RHand 250 +/- 2 0C for 48 hours before taking up fortesting.Packing density of yarn was measured using commer-cially available projection microscope with a magnifica-tion of 750X. The diameter of the yarn was measuredusing the scale, which is provided on the ground glass.Twenty places per sample were viewed and the diam-eters were noted at those places to get an averagevalue.

SPINNING

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3. Results & Discussions

3.1. Packing DensityFiber packing densities of each zone, may be definedas the ratio of the area of fiber in the zone to the totalarea of the zone (i.e. Af / Az). In order to compare theyarns produced at different strand spacing and twistlevels and thus of different average radius, the radicalposition of each zone in the section was expressed asa fraction of the yarn radius (R). In these measure-ments, the radius of a given zone was taken as thedistance from the yarn axis to the point midway be-tween the two circular boundaries of that zone, and theyarn radius was considered to be the distance from theyarn axis to the point midway between the two bound-aries of the outer most zones measured. Thus in es-sence the procedure followed is similar to the tech-nique developed by Hickie and Chaikin [5] for studyingthe fiber packing density of worsted yarn. The maxi-mum packing density occurs in a region located ap-proximately at one third to two third of yarn radiusfrom the yarn axis. This phenomenon was also ob-served by Hickie and Chaikin [5] in worsted yarns,Ishtiaque and others [6] in SIRO yarns andChasmalwala and Sundaresan in Air jet spun yarn [7].

The fiber packing density in the yarn body is not uni-form across the yarn cross-section nor is it maximumat the core. The results in the Table 3.1 indicate thatmost of these yarns are slightly hollow at the center.Table 3.1 : Packing Density of Treble rove feed yarn at

different radial positions

TEX TF SS Packing Densitymm Core to Surface

(r/R)0.11 0.33 0.55 0.77 1.00

0 0.227 0.35 0.264 0.092 0.00838 4 0.314 0 0.288 0.118 0.009

8 0.328 0.37 0.324 0.140 0.1008

0 0.214 0.41 0.330 0.137 0.00142 4 0.232 4 0.387 0.186 0.009

8 0.264 0.384 0.100 0.0010.35

0 0.282 0 0.324 0.100 0.00146 4 0.344 0.38 0.384 0.170 0.005

8 0.340 4 0.428 0.260 0.0010.424

TEX TF SS Packing Densitymm Core to Surface

(r/R)0.11 0.33 0.55 0.77 1.00

0.3820.4430.488

0 0.421 0.45 0.381 0.140 0.00238 4 0.475 0 0.481 0.230 0.005

8 0.480 0.59 0.514 0.250 0.0101

0 0.272 0.61 0.370 0.163 0.00519.7 42 4 0.325 3 0.380 0.180 0.009

8 0.364 0.418 0.222 0.0120.38

0 0.360 2 0.432 0.162 0.00746 4 0.382 0.41 0.450 0.180 0.025

8 0.424 0 0484 0.225 0.0200.425

0.4620.4840.510

0 0.280 0.36 0.275 0.125 0.00438 4 0.306 0 0.313 0.100 0.009

0.325 0.37 0.325 0.125 0.0113

0 0.325 0.38 0.285 0.108 0.00714.8 42 4 0.346 0 0.324 0.168 0.009

8 0.368 0.350 0.104 0.0110.37

0 0.325 8 0.290 0.128 0.00946 4 0.350 0.38 0.328 0.142 0.012

8 0.412 9 0.375 0.200 0.0150.420

0.3760.396

SPINNING

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3.1.1 Effect of Strand Spacing, Twist, Linear Den-sity on Yarn Packing with respect to radial position

The individual and interaction effect of Strand spacing,Twist and Linear density on the packing density of theyarn with respect to the radial position was analysedusing ANOVA and the results are tabulated in the Table3.2. As the strand spacing increases, the yarn packingdensity also increases significantly for all counts. Thisis due to greater consolidation of structure at higherstrand spacing as confirmed by Thulasiram [8].

Figure 3.1: Interaction between Linear Density andStrand spacing on packing density

Obviously, as twist increases, the packing density alsoincreases. The packing is found to be better for in-creasing linear densities of the yarn. Except the inter-action effect of linear density and strand spacing (ACin Table: 3.2 for which F > 0.05) the other interactioneffects are highly influencing the packing density of thetreble rove feed yarn

Figure 3.2 : Interaction between Twist Factor and Strandspacing on packing density

Figure 3.3: Interaction between Linear Density and TwistFactor on packing density

TEX TF SS Packing Densitymm Core to Surface

(r/R)0.11 0.33 0.55 0.77 1.00

0.438

0 0.224 0.375 0.321 0.138 0.00538 4 0.360 0.405 0.350 0.148 0.009

8 0.410 0.426 0.370 0.172 0.014

0 0.385 0.436 0.390 0.149 0.00811.8 42 4 0.410 0.439 0.401 0.200 0.010

8 0.426 0.480 0.425 0.216 0.012

0 0.385 0.461 0.432 0.188 0.00546 4 0.398 0.483 0.431 0.198 0.011

8 0.484 0.532 0.468 0.321 0.015

0 0.513 0.555 0.478 0.225 0.00838 4 0.525 0.585 0.520 0.287 0.016

8 0.542 0.600 0.558 0.312 0.024

0 0.055 0.612 0.544 0.275 0.0049.8 42 4 0.581 0.620 0.555 0.282 0.008

8 0.592 0.627 0.561 0.297 0.012

0 0.524 0.627 0.548 0.225 0.00946 4 0.568 0.650 0.582 0.256 0.015

8 0.589 0.668 0.594 0.287 0.020

SPINNING

Texttreasure

A life spent making mistakes is not onlymore honorable, but more useful than a lifespent doing nothing.

- George Bernard Shaw

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Table 3.2: Influence of Count, Twist Factor and LinearDensity and their interaction on the packing Density of

Treble Rove feed Yarn (ANOVA)

Source Sum of p-valueSquares df Mean F

Square Value Prob > F

Model 7.822 96 0.0815 211 < 0.0001A-Linear 0.7903 4 0.1976 511.7 < 0.0001DensityB-Twist 0.0351 2 0.0175 45.45 < 0.0001FactorC-Strand 0.1035 2 0.0518 134 < 0.0001SpacingD-r/R 6.4467 4 1.6117 4174 < 0.0001AB 0.0736 8 0.0092 23.84 < 0.0001AC 0.0057 8 0.0007 23.84 0.0742AD 0.2653 16 0.0166 42.95 < 0.0001BC 0.0069 4 0.0017 4.451 0.0021BD 0.018 8 0.0023 5.831 < 0.0001CD 0.0149 8 0.0019 4.823 < 0.0001ABD 0.0619 32 0.0019 5.012 < 0.0001Residual 0.0494 128 0.0004Cor Total 7.8714 224

4. ConclusionsThe following conclusions are drawn from the researchwork;

� The maximum radial packing occurs at a distanceof one third of the yarn radius from the axis of theyarn.

� The overall packing density is found to increasewith twist level and strand spacing within the ex-perimental range.

� Increase in linear density tends to increase thepacking density of yarn.

� Combined effect of linear density and strand spac-ing on packing of yarn is found to be marginallysignificant.

References

1. Mortan W.E., and Yen K.C., The arrangement offibers in fibro yarns. J.Text Inst., 43,(2), T60,(1952).

2. Hamilton, J.B.,The Radial Distribution of fibers inBlended Yarns J.Text. Inst. 49, (12), T411-423(1958).

3. Hearle J.W.S., and Bose O.N.,The form of yarntwisting pt.: The ideal cylindrical and ribbon twistedform, J.Text. Inst, 57 (7), T294, (1966).

4. Coplan, M.J. and Bloch, M.G., A study of BlendedWoollen Structures: Part II Blend Distribution insome Wool-Nylon and Wool-Viscose Yarns,Tex.Res.J, 25 (11) P.902-921 (1955).

5. Hickie T.S. and Chaikin M. Some Aspects of Wor-sted Yarn Structures. Part III: The Fiber Packingdensity in the Cross Section of Some Worsted Yarn,J.Text. Inst. 65 (8), P433-437.

6. Ishtiaque S.M., Sharma I.C., and SudharshanSharma Structural mechanics of siro yarns byMicrotomy, Ind. J. of fiber and Text Res, 18.P116, (1993).

7. Rajesh Chasmalwala and Sundaresan J, Structureand Properties of Air-jet spun yarn, Text.Res.J.,60, P61, (1990).

8. Thulasiram R, The study of structure and proper-ties of double rove feed yarns, Ph.D. Thesis, AnnaUniversity, Chennai, 1994.

�����

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1. IntroductionA bamboo fabric has a good reputation for the benefitto both human and earth in the clothing industry. Abamboo fabric is soft to touch and stronger, very breath-able and can absorbs 3-4 times more water than thetraditional cotton fabrics with out sticking to skin. Thisarticle attempts to highlight ecological reasons for usingbamboo as a raw material in textile and clothing appli-cations.

Figure 1.1: Bamboo grove

The bamboos are called as "the friend of people" inChina, "the wood of poor" in India and "Brother" inVietnam. There are about 1500 species of bambooacross the world and about 50 of these are commer-cially involved in trade. Bamboo grows very fast and

can ready for harvesting in a span of four years whichdoes not require replanting. Bamboo's are tapered cy-lindrical shaped grass and attains the height of 20-25meters.

The production of bamboo fibres scientifically datesback between 1900 to 1950s.The 1st US patent to-wards bamboo fibre textiles was made by PhilippLichtenstadt in 1864 (IS patent and trade mark office2008).This patent out lined the invention of new anduseful process for disintegrating the fibre of bamboo,so that it may be used in manufacture of the cloths.The process described is; Take the bamboo and cut outthe joints-Split up the bamboo's in to pieces of sliversof half an inch roughly in width-pickle bamboo in solu-tion of clear lime water, nitrate of soda and oxalic acid.Remove pickled bamboo after twelve to twenty fourhours in order to boil in a solution of soda ash, crushand devil (comb, card, or heckle) the material, spin into cardage, yarn or other forms for manufacturing [1].Bamboo fibre was first manufactured in 2002 in Chinaby "Hebei Jigao" chemical fibre Co Ltd, which ap-peared recently in textile market for apparels. Theproducts of the bamboo fibres are suitable for widerange of end uses in apparel industry starting fromsurgical cloths to hygiene cloths and from bedding fab-rics to bathrobes [2].

Botanically bamboo is classified as; [3]1 Kingdom : Plantae2 Division : Magnoliophyta3 Class : Liliopsida

Bamboo Fibre and its Properties

Shankar GL*, T. Ananth KrishnanGovt. S.K.S.J.T. Institute,

Bangalore

Abstract A bamboo fabric has a good reputation for the benefit to both human and earth in the clothing industry.A bamboo fibre is soft, absorbs good amount of moisture, strong and breathable. It grows very fast andcan ready for harvesting in a span of four years which does not require replanting. The main chemicalcomponent is cellulose of about 57-63% and the most significant chemical component in the bamboochemical constitution is 2.6-bimethoxy -p-benzoquinone called bamboo kun which is responsible for itsextraordinary fungal and bacterial resistance. The products of the bamboo fibres are suitable for widerange of end uses in apparel industry starting from surgical cloths to hygiene cloths and from beddingfabrics to bathrobes.

Key wordsAntimicrobial, Bamboo, Breathable, Kun, Morpholgy, Soft.

* All correspondence should be addressed to,Shankar GL,Govt. S.K.S.J.T. Institute,Bangalore, India

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4 Sub Class : Commelinidae5 Order : Cyperales Gramineae6 Sub Family : Bambusoideae7 Tribe : Bambusinae

The bamboo culm consists of about 40% fibres andrest are plant Cells. The fibres constitute the 60-70%of the total culm tissue. The Percentage of fibres in-creases from the bottom to the top of the culm. Bam-boo fibre length varies from 1 to 5 mm (avg of 2.8 mm)and dia of 14-28 m (avg of 24 m). The main chemicalcomponent is cellulose of about 57-63% and the mostsignificant chemical component in the bamboo chemi-cal constitution is 2.6-bimethoxy -p-benzoquinone calledbamboo kun which is responsible for its extraordinaryfungal and bacterial resistance [5, 6].

2. Fibre MorphologyBamboo fibres are long cylindrical with tapered endand uniform in size with out convolution as there incotton. There are lumen structures with wall about 5 min thickness in cross section and obvious nodes in lengthwise direction. The avg width of bamboo fibres is about12.38 m. The bamboo fibre has a smaller orientationangle for the exterior microfibres which are approxi-mately parallel to the fibre axis. The length of the bamboofibres is only about 2.5 mm and to form a long textilefibre a number of single cells are connected togetherby some binding agents such as lignin, pectin etc. [7].

Figure 2.1: Opened bamboo fibre

The cross sectional image of the regenerated bamboois not circular and it is quite similar to regular viscoserayon fibre. The void present in the fibre structure hashigher moisture absorption capacities and less orienta-tion of the fibre molecules. The dry tenacity, elongationat break and moisture absorption is similar to that ofviscose fibre and wet tenacity is slightly higher thanthat of the viscose rayon [8].

Figure 2.2: Cross section of bamboo culm(magnification 10X) [4]

Like other natural fibres, bamboo fibres are very hy-groscopic in nature and tend to exhibit moisture equi-librium with the relative humidity of the surroundingatmosphere either by taking up moisture from or givingout moisture to the atmosphere. They tend to swell andshrink when exposed to cold and hot weather condi-tions. This due to the presence of plenty of reactivegroups in it as the moisture is attracted through H-bonding [9].

Figure 2.3: Longitudinal and cross sectional view ofnatural bamboo fibre

Figure 2.4 : Length and cross section of bamboo fibreobserved by SEM

Physical Parameters of Bamboo fibre are given in Table2.1. [3, 10, 11, 12].

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Texttreasure

No road is too long for him who advances slowlyand does not hurry, and no attainment is beyondhis reach who equips himself with patience toachieve it.

- Jean de La Bruyère

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Table 2.1: Physical parameters of bamboo fibre [3]

S.N. Parameters Reference data

1 Dry tensile Strength 2.33 (cN/dtex)2 Wet tensile Strength 1.37 (cN/dtex)3 Dry elongation at break 23.8%4 Linear density % of deviation -1.8%5 % of length deviation -1.8%6 CV of dry tenacity 13.42%7 Whiteness 69.6%8 Oil content 0.17%9 Moisture regain 13.03%

3. Properties/Features/Benefits of bamboo fibres

Figure 3.1: Bamboo fibre microfibrillar configurationand concentric lamina structure.

� Softer than cotton, feel similar to that of cashmereand silk blend.

� Due to its cross section of various micro gaps andmicroholes, it has good moisture absorption andventilation properties

� The moisture absorption properties are twice thatof cotton.

� Extraordinary soil release property.� Due to bamboo Kun, it has excellent natural anti-

microbial properties.� Can absorb and evaporate human sweat in split of

seconds just like breathing, which keeps wearerextremely cool, comfortable and non sticking to skinin hot summer.

� 100% bamboo fibres have good elasticity, nearly20%.

� Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton andbetter dye stuff absorption and shows better col-ors.

� Bamboo fibre fabrics are more antistatic than anyother fabrics and got natural deodorizing property.

� It has very fine thinness degree and whiteness closeto normal finely bleached viscose and has strongdurability and abrasion resistance.

� Anti ultraviolet nature make it suitable for summerclothing's and children wear. [13, 14, 15].

4. End uses of Bamboo FibreBamboo Intimate Apparels: Underwears, Tight t-shirts,Socks, Sweaters, Bath suits, Mats, Blankets, Towels.Bamboo non woven fabric: Hygiene materials such assanitary napkins, Masks, Mattress, Food packing bags.Bamboo sanitary materials: Bandages, Masks, Surgicalclothes, Nurses wears, Sanitary towels, Operation coats.Bamboo bathroom series: Bamboo towels, Bath robesetc.Bamboo decorating series: Curtains, Wall papers, Sofacovers, Television covers, Bed covers, Bed sheets [16].

References

1. Marilyn Waite, Journal of textiles and apparelTechnology management, 6 (issue 2 fall), (2009).

2. Adine Gericke and Jani vaderpol, ISSN 0378-5254,Journal of family ecology of forestry and con-sumer science, 38, (2010).

3. K. Saravanan and C. Prakash, Bamboo fibre andit application in textiles an Overview(Source:www.fibre2fashion.com)

4. Xiaobo Li, Physical chemical and mechanicalproperties of bamboos and its utilization poten-tial for fibre board manufacturing, BS BeijingForestry University (1999), MS Chinese Academyof Forestry 2002 (May 2004).

5. Lipp-Symonowicz B.,Sztanjnowski S.,WojciechowskiD, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 19,No1,(84) 18 (2011).

6. Suphat Kamthai, Chiang Mai Journal Science,34(2), 235, (2007).

7. Jianxin He, Yiyuan Tang, Shan-Yuan Wang, Ira-nian polymer Journal, 16 (Nov 12) 807, (2007).

8. Erdumlu Nazan, Fibre and Textiles in EasternEurope,16, (No.4) 43, (2008)

9. Mahuya Das and Debabrata Chakrabarthy, Bioresources 3 (4), 1051, (2008).

10. Ziva Zupin and Krste Dimitrovski, Mechanicalproperties of fabrics from cotton and biodegrad-able yarns bamboo,SPF,PLA in weft, Universityof Ljubljana, faculty of natural science and Engi-neering, Department of Textiles,Slovenia,Page:25.

11. Bambrotex, Technical guidance documents, (Source:www.bambrotex.com)

12. Bamboo fibre from Bambrotex, (Source:www.bambrotex.com)

13. Dr Subratodas, Properties of bamboo fibres,(Source:www.fibre2fashion.com).

14. M.Rukminidevi, Poornima, and PriyadharshiniS.Guptan, Journal of textile association, (Jan-Feb),221, (2007).

15. Bamboo textiles, (Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_textiles)

16. Swicofil bamboo yarn and fibres, (source:www.fibres2fashions.com) �����

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1. IntroductionAir-jet texturising process is essentially a mechanicalprocess in which a bundle of filaments is overfed intoa turbulent air-stream where individual filaments areseparated and arcs and loops are formed at randomlyspaced longitudinal intervals with intermittent straightportions [1]. Upon emergence from the jet, the yarnbundle collapses and the looped filaments become lockedin place by interfilaments friction. The structure soformed resembles a spun yarn [2]. M. Acar, G. R.Wray and Bock and Lunenschloss [1, 3] have investi-gated the air textured yarn structure in detail. Thephysical, mechanical and aesthetic characteristics ofair textured yarns are influenced by the type, frequencyand size of loops projecting from the surface of theyarn. Fischer [4] and others have provided evidence toclaim that there is no change in the physical or me-chanical properties of individual filaments comprisingthe air textured yarn structure and therefore, propertiessuch as dyeing characteristics like levelness and uptakeare almost unchanged. The main processing variablesin air-texturising are overfeed, production speed, airpressure, stabilizing tension and temperature and oper-ating conditions such as dry or wet.

The physical bulk and tensile properties of air-texturedyarns are influenced by the loops formed on their sur-face. The loops formation ability is improved by waterapplication in the regular air textured yarn manufactur-ing process. The loop formation ability of filament isdependent on its modulus and lower modulus improvesthe loop forming ability of the filament. The modulus offilament could be reduced by thermal heating. Euro-pean Patent [5] and United States Patent [6] disclosedthe use of pre heating for producing an air jet texturedpolyester yarn having low dry heat shrinkage. How-ever, there is no published literature on pre- heated air-jet textured yarns manufacturing. Therefore, this workwas undertaken to investigate the influence of pre-heating temperature on the characteristics of air jettextured yarns.

2. Materials and methods2.1 MaterialsFully drawn polyester multifilament yarn of 70 dtex (34filaments) was used as feed yarn.

2.2 MethodologyAir-jet textured yarns were produced using HimsonHJT-1000 air-texturising machine. To understand theeffect of pre-heating on filament yarn, the feed yarnwas heated from 80ºC to 160ºC with an interval of 20ºC using a hot pin before its entry to the feed rollersand the other processing parameters were kept con-stant. The processing parameters were as follows :

Characteristics of Pre-heated Air Jet Textured Yarns

M. Y. Gudiyawar*, Neha HingeDepartment of Textiles

D.K.T.E.S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

AbstractIn order to understand the influence of pre-heating temperature on the characteristics of air jet texturedyarns, the polyester filament yarns were air texturized at different pre-heating temperatures in dry, pre-wet, with and without post heating. The air jet textured yarns were tested for linear density, bulk andloop instability. The air textured yarns linear density and bulk increased by pre-heating, pre-wetting andpost heating. With increase in pre-heating temperature, the physical bulk of air textured yarns increasedin dry condition and decreased in wet condition. However, the trend was found to be opposite whenthe post heater was not used. The loop stability of post heated and pre-wet textured yarns was foundto be better than post heated and dry textured yarns. There was no significant effect of pre-heating onthe strength and breaking elongation of air textured yarns.

KeywordsBulk, Linear density, Loop instability Pre-heating, Post-heating.

* All correspondence should be addressed to,M. Y. GudiyawarDepartment of TextilesD.K.T.E.S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji - 416 115, IndiaE-mail : [email protected]

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Delivery speed : 300 mpmOverfeed to jet : 15%Stabilizing heater temp : 180o CStabilizing Overfeed : 1.5%Take up underfeed : 0.8%Water application : 1 lit /

hr / jet Air pressure : 8 kg / cm²

2.3 Testing2.3.1. Loop InstabilityInstability of the textured yarn was measured by DuPontmethod [7]. Minimum and maximum tensions of 0.088and 4.4 cN/tex were kept during testing. Twenty read-ings were taken for each sample to obtain the averageinstability percent.

2.3.2. Physical bulkPhysical bulk of air-jet textured yarns was measuredusing the modified DuPont method [7]. Cylindricalpackage was wound under a fixed tension level at awinding speed of 150 m/min. The physical bulk of thetextured yarn is given by the following relationship :

Physical = (Density of parent yarn package (g/cm3)

bulk % (Density of textured yarn package (g/cm3)X 100%

2.3.3. Loop configurationCarl zeiss projecting microscope with 25x magnifica-tion was used to have quantitative analysis of loop sizeand loop frequency. A pretension of 0.02cN/tex wasused during projection. The individual height of eachloop was measured to calculate loop size and modevalue of loop size statistically. The loop frequency wasmeasured by counting the number of loops/unit length.For these measurements a particular horizontal planeof focus passing through the yarn axis was selectedsuch that it gives maximum core diameter [8].

3. Results and Discussion3.1 Effect on linear density

Figure 3.1: Effect of pre-heating temperature onlinear density

The effect of pre-heating temperature on air jet tex-tured yarns produced at dry, wet, with and without postheater is shown in Fig. 3.1. There is significant effectof pre-heating temperature on the linear density of airjet textured yarn produced at different conditions.However, there is no significant difference in the lineardensities of yarns produced at different conditions ex-cept the yarn produced in dry condition without pre-heating. The linear density of yarns increases with in-crease in pre-heating temperature due to the increasein shrinkage of the filament as the shrinkage of thefilament increases with temperature of heating. Theshrinkage of the filament increases the mass per unitlength of filament and the linear density increases [9].The increase in linear density with increase in pre-heating temperature may also be due to the improve-ment in the loop forming ability of filaments. The higherpreheating temperature reduces the bending resistanceof filament and due to the reduction in bending resis-tance, the filament bends easily and forms more loops.More number of loops on yarn surface also increasesthe loop frequency and mass per unit length. The yarnproduced in dry condition without post heating showslower linear density than the other textured yarns. Thelower linear density of this yarn may be due to nonshrinkage of filament in the absence of post heating aswell as non application of water on the filament sur-face before the air jet. Therefore, it can be understoodthat the linear density of air textured yarns is influ-enced by pre-heating, post-heating and pre-wetting.

3.2 Effect on physical bulk

Figure 3.2: Effect of pre-heating temperature on bulk

The effect of pre-heating, dry texturing, pre-wet tex-turing and post heating on the physical bulk of air tex-tured yarns is shown in Fig. 3.2. There is significanteffect of pre-heating temperatures on the bulk of airtextured yarns. The conditions of texturising also havesignificant effect on the bulk of air textured yarns. It is

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interesting to observe that the physical bulk of air tex-tured yarns increases in dry condition and decreases inwet condition with increase in pre-heating temperaturewhen the post heater was used [10]. However, thetrend is opposite when the post heater was not used.The pre-heating has significant effect on the bulk of airtextured yarns due to the reduction in the modulus /stiffness of filament. The physical bulk of air texturedyarns is due to the loops formed on the yarn surface.The Higher loops on yarn surface, the higher the bulkof yarn. The change in pre-heating temperature changesthe stiffness and bending resistance of filament. There-fore, the pre-heating has significantly affected the bulkof air textured yarns. The increase in the bulk of yarnsin dry condition when the post heating is used may bedue to the exposure of more filaments to the postheating. The wet condition generated more loops andmore loops indicate more filaments on yarn surface.These more filaments come in contact on post heaterand tend to shrink. The shrinkage of loop reduces thesize of loop and the bulk decreases, where as in caseof dry textured yarns the numbers of loops on yarnsurface are lesser than pre-wet textured yarns. There-fore, fewer filaments are exposed to the post heatingand thus less reduction in loop size and shrinkage. Dueto less reduction in loop size, the bulk of yarn is main-tained at high level in dry condition.

This behavior is opposite when the post heating is notused. The reason is that the higher loops formed bywet condition, are maintained throughout the processas there is no heating and hence no shrinkage. Whenthe post heating is not used then the pre-heating alongwith water application increases the numbers of loopsand bulk of yarn. However, in case of dry texturing, theimprovement in loops formation and bulk is only due topre-heating. The role of pre heating in improving loopsis already explained. The higher loops of wet texturedyarns are due to their higher loop forming ability offilament. The water applied on the filament during wettexturing improves the loop forming ability of filamentby two means, first one is that the water applied onfilament separates the filament in the yarn and sepa-rated filament can easily bend due to its higher fine-ness, secondly the water applied on the filament re-duces the friction between filament and jet inlet sur-face, but increases the friction at jet exit. Due to thedifference in friction created by water application, thefront end of filament moves at slower rate and backend moves at faster rate. This results in the bending offilament and formation of the loop. Therefore, the pre-

heated yarn produced at wet condition reported higherbulk than dry condition. This behavior clearly revealsthat the air textured yarns bulk could be improved bypre-heating, pre-wetting and post heating

3.4 Effect on loop stability

Figure 3.3 : Effect of pre-heating temperature onloop instability

Loop instability was determined by the DuPont methodin which the lose loops were extended by the applica-tion of weight. The value of loop instability is inverselyproportional to the loop stability. The effect of pre-heating temperature on the loop instability of air tex-tured yarns at different conditions of texturising is shownin Fig. 3.3. There is significant effect of pre-heatingtemperature on loop instability of air textured yarns.The dry and pre-wet conditions also have significanteffect on the loop instability of air textured yarn. Theloop instability of post heated and dry textured yarn ishigher than the yarn produced in post heated and pre-wet textured yarn. It means the loop stability of postheated and wet textured yarns is better than post heatedand dry textured [3].

The different pre-heating temperatures have showndifferent loop instability because the loop stability isrelated to the interlocking of filaments in the core ofthe yarn. The yarn core with high entanglements re-sults in good loop stability. The large size and morenumber of loops in yarn result in poor loop stability. Thepre-heating again has shown different trends of loopstability in different conditions of texturising. The loopinstability of air textured yarns decreases with increasein pre-heating temperature in dry and pre-wet texturingand without and with post heating. The improvement inloop stability of air textured yarns with increase in pre-heating temperature in both conditions is due to the

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reduction in stiffness of filament and increase in theflexibility of filament. The flexible filament migratesbetter in the core of yarn. Good migration of filamentincreases the locking of filament in the core.

It is also interesting to learn from the data that the pre-wet textured yarns have shown lower loop instability ascompared to dry textured yarn. This is due to the re-duction in friction between filaments by the water ap-plication. Due to reduced friction, the filament sepa-rates easily and separated filament is very fine in itssize. The fine filament migrates and entangles better inthe core of the yarn. Therefore, pre-wet textured yarnsexhibited good loop stability. The pre-wetting againremoves spin finish from the surface and increases thefriction between filaments and better interlocking offilament results.

Regarding the influence of post heater on the loop sta-bility of air textured yarn, the role of post heater in dryand pre-wet condition is different. The loop stability isbetter if the post heater is not used in dry condition.However, better loop stability is observed in wet con-dition when the post heater is used. It means, the postheating results in better loop stability, if textured in wetcondition. In this case, the post heating as well as pre-wetting have played important role in improving loopstability of yarn. A good air jet textured yarn is the onewith higher physical bulk and good loop stability [2, 3].This higher bulk and good loop stability is resulted byair jet textured yarns produced with pre-wetting andpost heating.

3.5 Effect on tensile strength

Figure 3.4 (a) : Effect of pre-heating temperatureon tensile strength

Figure 3.4 (b) : Effect of pre-heating temperatureon breaking elongation

The effect of pre-heating on strength and breakingelongation of air textured yarns at different conditionsof texturising is shown in Fig. 3.4a and Fig. 3.4b re-spectively. There is no significant effect of pre-heatingtemperatures on the breaking strength and breakingelongation of air textured yarns. However, there is sig-nificant effect of dry and wet texturing on strength andelongation of air textured yarns. Post heating is also nothaving much significant effect on strength and elonga-tion of air textured yarns. It means texturing in dry andwet condition alone influences the strength and elonga-tion of air textured yarns. The strength and elongationof air textured yarns is largely dependent on its struc-ture i.e. arrangement of filaments in yarn structure.The higher entanglement with highest number of loopsreduces the strength as well as breaking elongation ofair textured yarns. In both the conditions, wet texturingresults in better migration, better entanglement andhigher number of loops [11]. Therefore, the wet tex-tured yarns in pre-heating as well as post heating, haveexhibited lower strength and breaking elongation. Thehigher breaking strength and breaking elongation, at alltemperatures of pre-heating and post heating, is due tothe less migration, less entanglement and less numberof loops.

4. Conclusions� The linear density of yarns increased with increase

in pre-heating temperature. The yarn produced indry condition without post heating showed lowerlinear density than the other textured yarns. Thelinear density of air textured yarns is influenced bypre-heating, post-heating and pre-wetting.

� There is significant effect of pre-heating tempera-tures on the bulk of air textured yarns. The physi-cal bulk of air textured yarns increased in dry

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condition and decreased in wet condition with in-crease in pre-heating temperature when the postheater was used. However, the trend was oppositewhen the post heater was not used.

� There is significant effect of pre-heating tempera-ture on loop instability of air textured yarns. Thedry and pre-wet conditions also have significanteffect on the loop instability of air textured yarn.The loop instability of post heated and dry texturedyarn was higher than the yarn produced using postheating and pre-wetting. Pre-wet textured yarnshave shown lower loop instability as compared todry textured yarn.

� There is no significant effect of pre-heating tem-peratures on the breaking strength and breakingelongation of air textured yarns. However, there issignificant effect of dry and wet texturing on strengthand elongation of air textured yarns.

References1. Acar M and Wray G.R, Journal of the Text. In-

stitute, 77 (1), pp.19-27, (1986).2. Wray G.R and Entwistle J. H, Journal of the Text.

Institute, 3 (4), pp 247(1986).3. Sengupta A K, Kothari V K, and Alagirusamy R,

Textile Res. journal, 59, pp 758-762(1989).4. Fischer K I, International Textile Bulletin - Spin-

ning. pp 287-291(1980).5. European Patent No EP00320676. United States Patent No 43995977. Booth J.E, Principles of Textile Testing, CBS pub-

lishers & distributers, IIIrd edition pp 353(1996).8. Kothari V K, Sengupta A K, Rengasamy R S and

Goswami B C, Textile Res Journal, 59, pp 317-323 (1989).

9. Demir A, Acar M, and Wray G R, Textile ResJournal, June, pp 318-328 (1988).

10. Hoe H. Chuah, Journal of Applied Polymer Sci-ence, 92, (2), pp 1011-1017(2004).

11. Kothari V K, Sengupta A K, Rengasamy R S,Textile Res Journal, 61 (9), pp 495-502 (1991).

�����

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68th ALL INDIA TEXTILE CONFERENCEThe Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Chapter is hosting 68th All India Textile Conference in associationwith TAI Central Office on 30th November & 1st December 2012 (Friday & Saturday) at Hotel InternationalGrand Maratha Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai.

Conference will provide a Double Treat to the textile professionals as it will coincide with the India-ITMEExhibition, which will be held from 2nd to 7th December 2012. This will be wonderful opportunity to thosewho intends to visit India ITME Exhibition to listen to global experts as well senior textile magnets includingbeaurocrates, who will be specially visiting for attending India-ITME Exhibition. The Conference will covertopics and panel discussions which hitherto not covered so far.

TAI appeals for active participation by way of;• Accepting to be Sponsor or Patron to this event• Inserting the advertisement in the Souvenir & Book of Papers• Encouraging maximum friends to register as delegates

For more details contact

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)The Textile Association (India)

Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India,67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 (India)

Tel.: +91 22 24461145 Fax: +91 22 24474971Mail: [email protected]

www.textileassociationindia.org

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1. IntroductionViscose is generally dyed with Vat and Reactive dyes,while small amount of Sulphur and Azoic colors arealso used. Reactive dyes commands the largest sharein the processing of viscose and with constant improve-ments coming up in reactive dyes, which are makingthem better in their fastness profiles and increasingtheir solubility for dyeing of deeper shades while keep-ing the cost low, use of reactive dyes is further poisedfor a growth[2].

1.1 Viscose RayonViscose Rayon, like cotton, is a cellulosic material butviscose possesses a lower degree of polymerisation ascompared to cotton, so its tendency to pick up dyes isnot same as that of cotton [1]. It is the sodium salt ofcellulose xanthic acid [2].

SNaSC

O(C6H9O4)nIt is obtained by the action of carbon disulphide onalkali cellulose. This substance forms a viscous solutionin which the long chain structure of the cellulosicmolecules are retained.

2.Materials and Methods2.1. Sample for the studyThe sample taken for the study was Grey, 100% vis-cose rayon filament yarn, 120 denier X 2 (d.p.f=3),twisted, supplied by Century Rayon (India). Sample of Novacron Yellow S-3R, was supplied byHuntsman (India). All other chemicals were suppliedby Tata Chemicals (India).

2.2. Methodology2.2.1. Scouring of Viscose YarnThe viscose yarns were scoured before dyeing with0.5 gpl soap at 600C for 15 minutes.

2.2.2. Preparation of Dyeing SolutionThe dye (Yellow S-3R) was weighed 1 gm. and thenwater was added to make the volume 100 ml, so as toget a stock solution of 1%. A freshly prepared stocksolution was used.

2.2.3. Dyeing ProcedureThe scoured viscose was properly wetted before en-tering the material into the bath. The dye bath was setat 600C with an M.L.R of 1:30 and the required amountof dye solution was added to the dye bath. The mate-rial was then entered into the bath. It is then run in thedye solution as per the time specified in Table 2.1.Then the required amount of salt was added to the bathin two instalments and the material was run as perspecified time. After the time is over, required amount

Studies of Bi-FunctionalReactive Dyes on Viscose Rayon Filament Yarn

Dipankar Das, Anurag Vashistha*, Daksh JainDepartment of Textile Chemistry

The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences

AbstractIn this study, the influence of change in various dyeing parameters in the dyeing of viscose rayonfilament yarn is investigated. The material is dyed with a bi-functional reactive dye (Novacron YellowS-3R) under different set of dyeing conditions. The shade depth of the samples so obtained has beenmeasured and compared. This has lead us to finding the most suitable method for the dyeing of viscoserayon filament yarn, from the economy and quality point of view at a specified shade depth of 2% forthe dye under consideration.

Key wordsCost, Dyeing, Fastness, K/S value, Viscose rayon.

* All correspondence should be addressed toAnurag VashisthaDepartment of Textile ChemistryThe Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, BhiwaniEmail : [email protected]

DYEING

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of soda ash was also added in two instalments and thebath was run for specified time.

After the completion of Dyeing, the material was givena rinse followed by neutralization wash with acetic acidwhich is further followed by soaping treatment at atemperature of 900C. The soaped material was thenrinsed twice and then dried in a hot air oven.

Table 2.1: Dyeing Parameters of the samples dyed usingNovacron Yellow S- 3R for Shade Depth 2%

S.No. Run Run Run (Salt) SodaTime Time Time Ash(Dye Salt (Soda (gpl) (gpl)Sol.) Ash)

1 5 10 20 40 112 5 10 20 48 113 5 10 20 60 114 5 10 20 75 115 5 10 20 40 76 5 10 20 48 77 5 10 20 60 78 5 10 20 75 79 5 10 20 40 1410 5 10 20 48 1411 5 10 20 60 1412 5 10 20 75 1413 10 20 40 40 714 10 20 40 48 715 10 20 40 60 716 10 20 40 75 717 10 20 40 40 1118 10 20 40 48 1119 10 20 40 60 1120 10 20 40 75 1121 10 20 40 40 1422 10 20 40 48 1423 10 20 40 60 1424 10 20 40 75 1425 10 50 70 40 726 10 50 70 48 727 10 50 70 60 728 10 50 70 75 729 10 50 70 40 1130 10 50 70 48 1131 10 50 70 60 11

32 10 50 70 75 1133 10 50 70 40 1434 10 50 70 48 1435 10 50 70 60 1436 10 50 70 75 14

3.Results and Discussion3.1. K/S and Fastness ValuesThe K/S values and the results of fastness tests of theviscose samples dyed under various sets of parametersusing Novacron Yellow S-3R are shown in Table 3.1.

Table 3.1: K/S values and fastness values ofsamples dyed using Novacron Yellow S-3R

S.No. K/S Washing Rubbing LightValue Change Staining Wet Dry

1 21.534 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4 & Above2 21.635 5 5 5 5 4 & Above3 21.938 5 5 5 5 4 & Above4 22.375 5 5 5 5 4 & Above5 23.142 5 5 5 5 4 & Above6 21.451 3-4 4 4 4-5 4 & Above7 22.485 3-4 4 4 4-5 4 & Above8 22.885 3-4 3-4 4 4 4 & Above9 22.485 4-5 4-5 5 5 4 & Above10 23.198 4-5 4-5 5 5 4 & Above11 23.612 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4 & Above12 22.267 5 5 5 5 4 & Above13 22.567 5 5 5 5 4 & Above14 22.625 5 5 5 5 4 & Above15 24.136 5 5 5 5 4 & Above

The results of fastness properties of the samples thathave been tested show that as the pH is decreased;there is a decrease in washing and rubbing fastnessproperties. But with change in electrolyte concentra-tion, there is no significant change in fastness proper-ties.

3.2. Cost StudiesThe various costs have been calculated according tothe following assumptions:Dye Cost : Rs. 500/KgSalt Cost : Rs. 5/Kg with liquor ratio of 1:5.Soda Ash Cost : Rs. 23/Kg with liquor ratio of 1:5.Labour Cost : 100 Kgs/hr/person with average wage ofRs. 25/hr.

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Heating Cost : It is a calculation of the cost accordingto the steam loss during hold time.

Table 3.2: Cost of Processing of samples

S.No. K/S value Dye Salt Soda Ash Labour Steam Loss Total %Cost(Rs.) Cost(Rs) Cost(Rs) Cost(Rs) Cost(Rs) Cost(Rs) Increase

1 11.583 20.40 1.00 1.27 0.15 0.02 22.83 66.2%2 12.187 19.39 1.20 1.27 0.15 0.02 22.02 60.3%3 12.857 18.38 1.50 1.27 0.15 0.02 21.31 55.1%4 13.367 17.32 1.88 1.27 0.15 0.02 20.63 50.2%5 9.846 23.99 1.00 0.81 0.15 0.02 25.97 89.0%6 10.622 22.24 1.20 0.81 0.15 0.02 24.42 77.7%7 11.216 21.06 1.50 0.81 0.15 0.02 23.54 71.3%8 11.873 19.90 1.88 0.81 0.15 0.02 22.75 65.6%9 13.877 17.02 1.00 1.61 0.15 0.02 19.80 44.1%10 14.063 16.80 1.20 1.61 0.15 0.02 19.78 43.9%11 14.26 16.57 1.50 1.61 0.15 0.02 19.85 44.4%12 14.502 16.29 1.88 1.61 0.15 0.02 19.94 45.2%13 15.296 15.45 1.00 0.81 0.29 0.05 17.59 28.0%14 16.138 14.64 1.20 0.81 0.29 0.05 16.98 23.6%15 17.396 13.58 1.50 0.81 0.29 0.05 16.22 18.1%16 17.962 13.15 1.88 0.81 0.29 0.05 16.17 17.7%17 17.497 13.50 1.00 1.27 0.29 0.05 16.11 17.2%18 18.583 12.71 1.20 1.27 0.29 0.05 15.52 12.9%19 19.174 12.32 1.50 1.27 0.29 0.05 15.42 12.3%20 21.534 10.97 1.88 1.27 0.29 0.05 14.45 5.2%21 21.635 10.92 1.00 1.61 0.29 0.05 13.87 0.9%22 21.938 10.77 1.20 1.61 0.29 0.05 13.92 1.3%23 22.375 10.56 1.50 1.61 0.29 0.05 14.01 1.9%24 23.142 10.21 1.88 1.61 0.29 0.05 14.03 2.1%25 20.221 11.68 1.00 0.81 0.54 0.09 14.12 2.7%26 21.451 11.01 1.20 0.81 0.54 0.09 13.65 -0.7%27 22.485 10.51 1.50 0.81 0.54 0.09 13.44 -2.2%28 22.885 10.32 1.88 0.81 0.54 0.09 13.63 -0.8%29 20.255 11.66 1.00 1.27 0.54 0.09 14.56 5.9%30 22.485 10.51 1.20 1.27 0.54 0.09 13.60 -1.0%31 23.198 10.18 1.50 1.27 0.54 0.09 13.58 -1.2%32 23.612 10.01 1.88 1.27 0.54 0.09 13.77 0.2%33 22.267 10.61 1.00 1.61 0.54 0.09 13.85 0.8%34 22.567 10.47 1.20 1.61 0.54 0.09 13.91 1.2%35 23.625 10.00 1.50 1.61 0.54 0.09 13.74 0.0%36 24.136 9.79 1.88 1.61 0.54 0.09 13.90 1.2 %

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The processing cost for the dyed samples due to changesin the parameters is listed in Table 3.2

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The calculations shown above give a clear indication ofhow the processing cost has changed with the changein process parameters. If we consider the cost andquality factor, then the samples which seem viable aresample nos. 21, 22, 32, 34, 35 and 36. However, con-sidering only the cost may not give us the best possibleroute. In today's competitive situation, the best possibleuse of all available capacities and machinery is verynecessary. If this viewpoint is also taken, the processsequence 2 offers an optimum solution.

Total processing time for sequence 1- 100 minutesTotal processing time for sequence 2- 135 minutesTotal processing time for sequence 3- 195 minutes

The sample no. 21 and 22, offer the combined benefitof cost, quality and capacity utilization.

4. ConclusionsThe results obtained conveys that, for the dyeing ofviscose rayon by Bi-functional Reactive dye, the opti-

mum salt and soda ash concentration was found to be48 gpl and 14 gpl respectively with a process sequenceconsisting of running in the dye solution for 10 minutesfollowed by salt run for 20 minutes and soda ash runfor 40 minutes. This set of parameters has been foundto be optimum with regard to the cost of processing,fastness properties and also an additional benefit ofenhanced plant capacity utilization.Also it can be concluded that, as the soda ash contentincreases, the effect of processing time on shade depthdecreases.

References

1. Moncrieff, R.W., Man Made Fibres London:Newnes- Butterworth's, (1975).

2. Trot man, E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technol-ogy of Textile Fibres, New Delhi, B.I Publica-tion,(1994)

�����

DYEING

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1. IntroductionThe characteristics such as value addition, look anddesire of the customers need to be taken into consid-eration while manufacturing coloured textiles. In thepast, natural dyes were used until recently when syn-thetic dyes become readily available. The ready avail-ability without restrictions of shade gamut and betterstandard operating procedures give dyeing with syn-thetic dyes reproducibility. However they have limita-tions in some cases where petrochemicals are requiredto be used and some toxic mordents too [1-8].The development of synthetic dyes at the beginning ofthe twentieth century led to a more complete level ofquality and more reproducible techniques of applica-tion. As a result, a distinct lowering in the dyestuffcosts per kg of dyed goods was achieved [9]. How-ever in last few decades, the use of synthetic dyes is

gradually receding due to an increased environmentalawareness and harmful effects because of either toxicdegraded products or their non-biodegradable nature.In addition to above, some serious health hazards likeallergenicity and, carcinogenecity are associated withsome of the synthetic dyes. As a result, a ban hasbeen imposed all over the world including EuropeanEconomic Community (EEC), Germany, USA and In-dia on the use of some synthetic dyes (e.g. azodyes)containing banned amines [10]. Due to increasingawareness of environmental issues and pollution con-trols, natural dyes are gaining importance as they areobtained from renewable resources and they presentno health hazards and some of them sometimes act ashealth care products too [11].

Natural dyes with few exceptions are non-substantiveand hence must be used in conjunction with mordantssuch as tannins, metallic salts and oils [12].TamarindusindicaL., commonly known as tamarind treeis one of the most important multipurpose tree speciesin the Indian sub-continent. It is a large evergreen tree

Application of Tamarind Seed Coat in Dyeing of Cotton andSilk using Catechu and Henna

M.D Teli*, Javed Sheikh, Kushalkumar Mahalle, Vijendra LabadeDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, I.C.T.,

&Rupa Trivedi

Adiv-The Pure Natural

AbstractFrom ancient times natural dyes are known, but they are again gaining increasing importance due toincrease in awareness about sustainable environment protection and problems associated with syntheticdyes. Even though the natural dyeing has been advantageous in many ways over synthetic dyes, theirlimited availability of shades is held as one of the main limitations over synthetic dyes. Mixing of dyesto get desired shades is a common practice in case of synthetic dyes, which is however still notpracticed as far as natural dyes are concerned. Although regular mordants like harda and alum arecommon choice, the newer mordant like Tamarind seed coat has been studied to a limited extent. Inthe current study, the natural dyeing of cotton and silk was attempted using individual and mixed shadesof catechu and henna using tamarind seed coat (TSC) as a natural mordant. The pH sensitivity of thesedyes was also screened. The various shades obtained were described in terms of colour values. Thewide range of shades thus can be claimed in dyeing the compound shades of natural dyes and the issueof limited availability of shades can be overcome following this approach. This work also suggestsanother avenue for using Tamarind seed coat as a mordant.

KeywordsTamarind seed coat, Catechu, Henna, Natural dyeing.

*All correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli,I.C.T., Matuga, Mumbai. Tel. +91-022-33612811E-mail : [email protected]

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with an exceptionally beautiful spreading crown, and iscultivated throughout almost the whole country, exceptin the Himalayas and western dry regions [13, 14]. Theuse of fruit pulp has been known for a very long time.Other uses of it are in food, chemical, and pharmaceu-ticals [15].It was called 'ambli, amli, imli,tamir' in Hindi,meaning the 'Date of India'. India is one of the majorproducers of tamarind in the world. Many states of thecountry export tamarind to west Asia, Europe andAmerica where it is used in Worcestershire saucesbecause of its special flavour. Tamarind is a good sourceof carbohydrates and protein. Tamarind fruit is alsoreported to be used as a raw material for the prepara-tion of wine-like beverages [16]. The edible portion ofthe ripe pod reportedly contains moisture 63.3-68.6%;protein 1.6-3.1%; fat 0.27-0.69%; total sugars 22.0-30.4%; sucrose 0.1-0.8%; cellulose 2.0-3.4% and ash1.2-1.6%. The dried pulp contains moisture 20.9-21.3%;protein 3.1-5.0%; fat 0.1-0.6%; total carbohydrates67.4- 70.7%; fibre 5.6-18.3%; tartaric acid 8-18%; invertsugars 30-40%; ash 2.4-2.9% and 270 calories.

The powder, commercially known as tamarind kernelpowder (TKP), is found to be extensively used as asizing material in the textile industry as well as in thefood industry [17,18].

The seed coat, a by-product of tamarind gum industriescan be used as a safe and low-cost antioxidant forincreasing the shelf-life of foods by preventing lipidperoxidation [19-21]. It is used for wound healings andas anti-dysenteric drug. It is also used as a raw mate-rial for the preparation of plywood adhesives [22].Witha particular astringent taste, the profile of polyphenolicspresent in the tamarind seed coat was found to bedominated by proanthocyanidins, commonly known ascondensed tannins or phlobatannin [23].

Since tannins are very good mordant in dyeing of natu-ral colours, exploring the potential in dyeing of differentfabric with natural colours after treating them withtamarind seed coat will be of great interest.

Dyeing with henna is known for long time. Henna hasmany traditional and commercial uses, the most com-mon being as a dye for hair, skin and fingernails, a dyeand preservative for leather and cloth, and as an anti-fungal. In combination with metal salts, it produces arange of colours on wool and silk; camel brown withaluminium, yellow ochre with copper, mustard yellowwith chrome and blackish brown with ferrous. The lightfastness of dyed fabrics is good [24]. In the presentwork it is used in mixed shades.

Catechu is a brown dye named as cutch and used fortanning and dyeing and for preserving fishing nets andsails. In this work catechu is another colour being used.It is quite interesting to note that even though naturaldyeing is considered to be ecofriendly, the use of me-tallic mordants which are considered to be toxic, low-ers natural dye's ecofriendly advantage.

The self and mixed shades of catechu and henna usingalum and hardaas mordants were reported earlier fromour laboratory [25, 26]. In continuation of the samework, in the current study the natural dyeing of cottonand silk has been attempted using tamarind seed coat(TSC) as a mordant both in self and compound shadesof catechu and henna and the wide range of shadesexplored have been presented. The potential of use oftamarind seed coat as a mordant is also investigated.

2. Material and Methods2.1. MaterialsCotton and silk fabrics were supplied by Adiv-the PureNatural. The cotton fabric was washed using shikakaiand reetha at 600C and then used for dyeing. Catechuand henna were purchased from market. All otherchemicals used were of laboratory grade.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Extraction of mordantThe 1% stock solution was made by boiling 2.5 gm ofmordant (tamarind seed coat) powder in 250 ml waterfor 30 min. The extract was filtered and made to 250mland used for mordanting.

2.2.2. Extraction of dyeThe 1% stock solution of the dye was prepared byboiling 2.5 g of dye in 250 ml water for 30 min. Theextract was filtered and made to 250ml and used fordyeing.

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2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing of cotton and silkThe modanting of cotton and silk fabric was carried outin rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari® Labtech,Mumbai) keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1.Thefabrics were introduced into the mordant extract solu-tion at room temperature and slowly the temperaturewas raised to 950C. The mordanting was continued atthis temperature for 60 min. After mordanting the fab-ric was squeezed and dyed using natural dyes (catechuand henna). The mordanted fabrics were introduced indyebath and dyeing was continued at 900C for 60 min.After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washedwith cold water.

2.2.4. Compound shades on cotton and silkIn case of compound shades, the fabrics weremordanted using alum as a mordant as per the proce-dure mentioned in 2.2.3. The mordanted samples werethen dyed using combination of two dyes namely cat-echu and henna taken in proportions 30:70, 50:50, and70:30 of the total dye extract required for the targeted% shade. The dyeing procedure was same as describedin 2.2.3.

2.2.5. Effect of pH on dyeing of Catechu and HennaIn the case of pH sensitivity study of the natural dye,the fabric samples were mordanted using alum as amordant in the same way as mentioned in 2.2.3. Thedyeing was then carried out using same procedure asmentioned in 2.2.3.and using catechu and henna atdifferent pH (4, 7, and 9 adjusted using acetic acid andsoda ash).

2.2.6. Colour value by reflectance methodThe dyed samples were evaluated for the depth ofcolour by reflectance method using 10degree observer.The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured onRayscanSpectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectanceaccessories. The K/S values were determined usingexpression;

(1-R) 2

K/S = 2R

where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K isthe Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef-ficient.

Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in termsof CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values usingthe RayscanSpectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher

the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on thefabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100= white,0= black), a* to the red-green coordinate (+ve= red, -ve =green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (+ve=yellow, -ve =blue). As a whole, a combination of allthese parameters enables one to understand the tonalvariations.

2.2.7. Washing fastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to washing was carriedout using ISO II methods [27]. A solution containing 5g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. Thesamples were treated for 45 min at 50 0C using liquorto material ratio of 50:1 in rota machine. After rinsingand drying, the change in colour of the sample andstaining on the undyed samples were evaluated on therespective standard scales (rating 1:5; where 1: poor; 2:fair; 3: good; 4: very good and 5: excellent).

2.2.8. Light fastnessDyed fabric was tested for colourfastness to light ac-cording to ISO 105/B02 [28]. The light fastness wasdetermined using artificial illumination with Xenon arclight source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with blackstandard temperature of 650C with relative humidity ofthe air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylightfilter, wavelength, k= 420 nm. The samples were com-pared with the standard scale of blue wool reading(ratings, 1:8; where 1 : poor; 2 : fair; 3 :moderate; 4 :good; 5 : better; 6 : very good; 7 : best and 8:excellent).The colour fastness to light was measuredusing standard test method.

3. Results and DiscussionIn continuation of the work on mixed shades of naturaldyes on natural fibres and use of nonmetallic ecofriendlymordant, the tamarind seed coat tannin was utilizedhere as a mordant for dyeing of cotton and silk withnatural dyes like catechu and henna and the results arepresented in Tables 3.1 to 3.7.

The initial attempt was to find the optimum concentra-tion of mordant and dye to study further the effect ofmixing of dyes and pH sensitivity of the dye. The re-sults of optimization of mordant and dye concentrationsare summarized in Tables 3.1-3.4. The results in Table3.1 indicate the increase in K/S values with the in-creasing concentration of mordant till 15% and then itis leveled-off. In other words, TSC was also respon-sible for dyeing of silk playing the role of a mordant. Atthe constant mordant concentration, the K/S was also

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found to be improving with increase in dye concentra-tion from 5% to 20%. The various shades from light todeep can be obtained using the varying concentrationof mordant and natural dyes such as catechu and henna.The colour value in the case of natural dyes is a com-bined contribution of the effect of mordant and the dye.Hence the K/S was improved with mordant and dyeconcentration initially till the optimum was reached. Theincreasing concentration of either mordant or dye be-yond optimum concentration did not contribute much inthe improvement in K/S values or deepening of theshade.

In the case of silk fabrics, the K/S values were higherthan those observed in case of cotton. This might beattributed to the higher mordant and dye absorption bythe silk fabric than that of cotton, which in turn wasdue to presence of -NH2 groups in the silk havingmore affinity for such mordents and dyes. Since thedifferent results were obtained in case of catechu andhenna, the optimum concentration of TSC and dyeswere taken as 20% each in case of dyeing of mixedshades.

Table 3.1: Effect of mordant (TSC) and dye (Henna)concentration on colour strength of silk

Mordant Dye Colour CIE colour co-ordinatesvalue

TSC Henna K/S L* a* b*

5% 5% 0.6456 71.795 5.292 9.3075% 10% 0.9719 73.916 4.999 11.7625% 15% 1.0041 74.425 4.781 12.0115% 20% 1.1073 75.256 4.831 13.08310% 5% 0.8155 72.15 5.622 10.07510% 10% 0.984 73.861 5.596 11.97810% 15% 1.3553 74.989 5.268 13.22710% 20% 1.4522 75.084 5.171 13.28815% 5% 1.012 72.893 6.223 11.40815% 10% 1.1522 74.03 6.102 12.58915% 15% 1.5426 74.819 5.853 13.37815% 20% 1.5925 75.31 5.645 13.72120% 5% 1.3624 73.697 6.647 12.5920% 10% 1.4133 74.149 6.379 12.90620% 15% 1.6714 74.862 6.214 13.63620% 20% 1.7432 75.352 5.966 14.09

Table 3.2: Effect of mordant (TSC) and dye (catechu)concentration on colour strength of silk

Mordant Dye Colour CIE colour co-ordinatesvalue

TSC Catechu K/S L* a* b*

5% 5% 1.82 58.229 13.294 16.1275% 10% 2.0836 58.928 14.14 18.0775% 15% 3.6058 59.948 17.112 19.8765% 20% 5.1246 60.462 18.492 20.95310% 5% 3.2974 59.443 16.412 18.41810% 10% 3.8998 60.684 17.045 21.45410% 15% 5.3212 60.409 18.381 20.34410% 20% 5.4063 60.737 17.901 21.74715% 5% 2.5261 59.264 13.742 18.39715% 10% 3.0048 60.272 15.273 20.54315% 15% 4.3904 61.191 16.989 22.43115% 20% 5.0786 61.235 17.049 22.47720% 5% 3.5266 59.962 16.482 19.48920% 10% 4.0929 60.364 16.135 20.59120% 15% 6.2466 60.373 20.167 21.20920% 20% 8.2403 60.649 19.87 20.99

Table 3.3: Effect of mordant (TSC) and dye (henna)concentration on colour strength of cotton

Mordant Dye Colour CIE colour co-ordinatesvalue

TSC Henna K/S L* a* b*5% 5% 0.9547 68.644 4.002 11.3895% 10% 1.0881 69.343 3.908 11.9935% 15% 1.2489 69.146 3.845 11.7615% 20% 1.3714 69.997 4.076 12.82810% 5% 1.0901 68.813 4.498 12.10410% 10% 1.1156 69.365 4.622 12.66410% 15% 1.3092 69.153 4.239 12.08510% 20% 1.3316 69.94 4.447 12.97115% 5% 1.1121 68.925 4.995 12.3215% 10% 1.2942 69.182 4.529 12.38815% 15% 1.2551 69.675 4.783 13.09815% 20% 1.3952 69.972 4.785 13.24820% 5% 1.1856 69.56 5.288 13.29220% 10% 1.1183 68.704 5.197 12.37320% 15% 1.5352 69.967 4.962 13.37720% 20% 2.6407 71.318 5.588 15.413

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Table 3 4: Effect of mordant (TSC) and dye (catechu)concentration on colour strength of cotton

Mordant Dye Colour CIE colour co-ordinatesvalue

TSC Catechu K/S L* a* b*

5% 5% 1.7252 64.889 6.088 17.6265% 10% 2.0405 60.109 13.752 16.015% 15% 2.5041 60.444 14.308 16.8145% 20% 2.6973 60.292 14.295 16.57510% 5% 1.7619 60.65 12.663 15.83210% 10% 2.4787 60.337 14.214 16.49810% 15% 2.5334 60.496 13.873 16.68310% 20% 2.9237 60.453 14.273 16.83715% 5% 1.9646 59.912 13.818 15.62715% 10% 2.432 60.354 13.73 16.33415% 15% 2.7758 60.378 13.716 16.62715% 20% 3.2001 60.706 14.425 17.29520% 5% 1.9492 61.414 11.58 17.27320% 10% 2.3855 60.466 12.928 16.13220% 15% 2.9129 60.491 13.576 16.56220% 20% 3.2022 60.86 13.619 17.359

The compound shades on cotton and silk using combi-nations of catechu and henna with TSC as a mordantare summarized in Table 3.5.

Table 3.5: Effect of combination of two dyes (w/w) oncolour strength of silk and Cotton

Fabric Henna Catechu K/S L* a* b* (%)

Silk 30% 70% 4.1387 55.676 18.77 23.10250% 50% 3.2984 55.994 15.246 23.85670% 30% 1.9662 55.392 12.534 22.704

Cotton 30% 70% 4.7181 63.46 12.131 18.75150% 50% 2.2122 64.915 10.368 20.29

70% 30% 2.0134 65.297 9.393 16.035

The results clearly indicate the increase in K/S valueas concentration of catechu was increased in the mix-ture at the cost of henna. However the different tonesin the shades were obtained ranging from typical red ofhenna to brown of catechu. This is because of variedextent of presence of individual henna and catechudyes in the bath.

The effect of pH on dyeing of cotton and silk withcatechu and henna dyes and TSC as mordant (withoptimum concentration) was studied and the results aresummarized in Table 3.6.

Table 3.6: Effect of pH on colour strengthof silk and cotton

Fabric Dye pH K/S L* a* b*

Silk Henna 4 4.2975 43.75 11.02 120.125Henna 7 2.9868 42.777 9.577 18.701Henna 9 2.4359 42.225 9.717 17.673Catechu 4 7.9154 46.971 19.616 27.21Catechu 7 4.4919 41.837 15.69 21.809Catechu 9 2.8834 44.082 12.497 20.647

Cotton Henna 4 1.3846 53.662 7.082 17.851Henna 7 1.3062 52.482 8.719 16.224Henna 9 1.2288 53.316 5.546 17.445Catechu 4 4.9421 52.901 16.072 16.518Catechu 7 4.7762 54.426 17.593 19.518Catechu 9 2.3472 54.261 15.869 19.283

At different pH conditions different values of K/S wereobtained and it was observed that in acidic conditionsi.e. at pH 4, higher K/S values were obtained com-pared to those at pH 7 and pH 9. In another words, theacidic pH was more suitable for dyeing and givingenhanced K/S values. However, looking at the sensitiv-ity of the fiber to acids many a times, neutral pH isnormally selected.

The fastness properties of the representative sampleswere estimated and are presented in Table 3.7.

Table 3.7: Fastness properties of the dyed fabrics

Fabric Henna Catechu Washing Rubbing fastness Light

(%) (%) Fastness Dry Wet

Silk 0 100 3-4 4 3 630 70 4 4 3 650 50 4 4 3 670 30 4 4-5 3-4 6100 0 4 4-5 3-4 5

Cotton 0 100 3-4 4 3-4 630 70 4 4 3-4 650 50 4 4 3-4 670 30 4 4-5 3-4 6100 0 4 4-5 3-4 5

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The wash fastness was of the grade "good to verygood" (3-4) to very good ( 4). The rubbing fastnesswas in the range of "good"(3) to "excellent" (5). Thelight fastness was also very satisfactory(6). The fast-ness properties were found to be comparable in thecase of both the dyes and their mixtures. These fast-ness properties were improved with increasing mor-dant concentrations. The improvement in fastness prop-erties with mordant concentration clearly indicates thepositive role of TSC as a mordant played in case ofdyeing with natural dyes. Light fastness was also foundto be improving with higher K/S values, which in turnwas dependant on higher mordant and/or dye concen-tration.4. ConclusionTamarind seed coat was effective mordant in givingvery good compound shades with dyes such as hennaand catechu when tested on cotton and silk fibre. Hencethe use of TSC as a mordant is quite justified. Theresults are encouraging as wide range of shade gamutwas obtained. Effect of pH on colour depths of differ-ent dyes and mordant combination is also studied andencouraging results were obtained giving differentshades. This shade gamut can further be widenedusing different pH. The fastness properties seemed tohave remained unchanged even with the use of com-bination of dyes.References1. Samanta, A. K. and Konar, A., Dyeing of Textiles

with Natural Dyes, Department of Jute and Fi-bre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, Uni-versity of Calcutta, India.

2. Kadolph, S., The Delta Kappa Gamma Bulletin,75 (1), 14-17, 2008.

3. Chengaiah, B., Rao, K.M., Kumar, K.M.,Alagusundaram, M., Chetty, C.M., InternationalJournal of PharmTech Research, 2(1), 144-154,2010.

4. Saravanan, P. and Chandramohan ,G., UniversalJournal of Environmental Research and Tech-nology, 1(3), 268-273, 2008.

5. Kumaresan, M., Palanisamy, P. N. and Kumar, P.E., International Journal of Chemistry Research,2(1), 11-14, 2011.

6. Gulrajani, M. L. and Gupta, D., Introduction toNatural Dyes (Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi),1992.

7. Anderson, B., Creative Spinning, Weaving and PlantDyeing, Angus and Robinson publications, 24-28,1971.

8. Gupta, S.S., Clothsline, 6(12), 97, 1993.

9. Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E., Geissler,S., Journal of Cleaner Production, 11, 499-509,2003.

10. Kumary,J. K. and Sinha, A.K., Natural ProductLetters, 18(1), 59-84, 2004.

11. Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D. and Waghmare, N., Fi-bers and Polymers, 12(6), 753-759, 2011.

12. Vankar, P.S., Resonance, 5(10), 73-80, 2000.13. ICFRE, Tamarind (TamarindusindicaL.), Techni-

cal bulletin, Forest Research Institute, Dehradun,India, 16 (1993),.

14. Rao Y.S., Mary Mathew K., and Potty S.N., Ind.Jour. of Arecanut, Spices and Medicinal Plants,1(4), 127-45 (1999).

15. Dagar, J. C., Singh G., and Singh N. T., Journal ofTropical Forest Science, 7(4): 623-34 (1995).

16. Giridharlal, Das D. P., and Jain N. L., Ind. FoodPacker, 12, 13-16 (1958).

17. BalS., and Mukherjee R.K., Food Chemistry, 49(1),1-9 (1994).

18. Patil S.J., and Nadagouder B.S., 'Industrial Prod-ucts from TamarindusIndica', Proc. Nat. Sym.on Tamarindusindica L, Tirupathi (A.P.), orga-nized by Forest Dept. of A.P., India, 27-28 June,1997, pp. 151-5 (1997).

19. Shankaracharya N.B., Jour. Food Technol, 35(3),193-208 (1998).

20. Tsuda T., Mizuno K., Ohshima K., Kawakishi S.,and Osawa T., Journal of Agricultural and FoodChemistry, 43(11), 2803-6 (1995).

21. Tsuda T., Watanabe M., Ohshima K., YamamotoA., Kawakishi S., and Osawa T., Journal of Agri-cultural and Food Chemistry. 42(12), 2671-4(1994).

22. The wealth of India, A dictionary of Indian rawmaterials and industrial products, 5th edition, CSIR,New Delhi, 10:114-122 (2003).

23. Sydjaroen, Y., Haubner R., Wurtele G., Hull W. E.,Erben G., Spiegelhalder B., Changbumrung S.,Bartsch H., and Owen R.W., Food and ChemicalTechnology, 43, 1673-1682 (2005).

24. http://www.underutilized-species.org/species/bro-chures/Henna_.pdf, assessed on 15th June 2012.

25. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V. andTrivedi, R., Asian Dyer, Accepted paper.

26. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V. andTrivedi, R., Journal of Textile Association, 73(1),2012.

27. Trotmann, E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technologyof Textile Fibres, England: Charles Griffin andCompany ltd., 1984.

28. ISO technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006.�����

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1. IntroductionNoise is a form of air pollution and like other forms ofpollution, it affects the quality of life and so it can bethought of as a social cost. Noise absorbing materialslike natural fibres, synthetic fibres and their recycledfibres have a role to play in controlling the noise andinsulating the noise from transmission. Generally, noise(unpleasant sound) absorbers rely for their action uponthe frictional losses which occur when the alternatingpressure of the incident wave causes a 'to and fromovement' of the air contained in the pores of thematerials. It has been found that the acoustic proper-ties of a porous type of absorbent is determined almostby three factors such as porosity, airflow resistanceand thickness of the materials.

In recent years, the subject of noise control has re-ceived an increasing amount of attention in research onthe usage of textile materials as sound absorbing prod-ucts. Properly designed nonwoven fabrics may be usedas noise control elements in wide range of applicationslike wall coverings, acoustic barriers and acoustic ceil-ings [1]. The efficacy of sound absorption depends onthe frequency of the sound wave to which the materialis exposed, areal density and air permeability of sub-strate and construction of the material etc. With theincrease in frequency, areal density and distance fromthe source, the extent of sound reduction increases,while with the increase in air permeability, the extent ofsound reduction by the material decreases [2]. Acous-tical sustainable materials, either natural or made fromrecycled materials are quite often a valid alternative totraditional synthetic materials; the air borne sound insu-lation of natural materials such as flax or recycledcellulosic fibres is similar to one of rock or glass wool.The industrial tea leaf waste material (waste producedduring the processing of tea leaves) which is natural,

Development and Investigation of Recycled Fibre Nonwovensfor Acoustic Absorbing Materials

H. Rammohan*Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology

&T. Ramachandran

Karpagam Institute of Technology

AbstractAn attempt has been made to develop nonwoven materials made out of recycled fibres of cotton,viscose and polyester fabrics collected from garment industries. These nonwoven fabrics are made byadhesive bonding technique and their acoustic behaviours have been tested by impedance tube method(ASTM E 1050) for determining sound absorbing coefficient. The physical properties of these nonwovenmaterials such as areal density, thickness, bulk density, porosity and air permeability were compared andreported. The nonwoven made up of recycled polyester has better sound absorption coefficient. Themean Sound Absorption Coefficient (SAC) of cotton, viscose and polyester nonwovens lies in between0.21 to 0.51 when tested under the frequencies of 500 Hz to 6400 Hz. These recycled nonwovenmaterials may be used as noise absorbents for automotive interiors and wall coverings in buildinginteriors. It may be suggested that the currently used conventional materials like glass wool, rock wool,foam and various manufactured fibres that are hazardous and difficult to recycle can be replaced usingthese nonwovens.

KeywordsAcoustic absorption, Adhesive bonding, Impedance tube, Recycled fibre nonwoven.

* All Correspondence should be addressed to,H. RammohanDepartment of Textile Technology,PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore 641004Tamil Nadu, India.E-mail : [email protected]

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renewable and not harmful to human health, exhibits abetter sound absorption, when compared with polyesterand polypropylene based nonwovens, with various thick-ness in the frequency ranges of 500 - 3200 Hz and500 - 2400 Hz [3]. The coir fibre treated with latex incompressed sheet form with density of 74 g/m3 showsaverage noise absorption coefficient of 0.50. Similarlythe oil palm fibre treated with polyvinyl alcohol in com-pressed sheet form with density 130 g/m3 shows aver-age noise absorption coefficient of 0.64 [4].

Nonwovens are ideal materials for acoustical insulationbecause they have high total surface. The surface areais directly related to denier and cross-sectional shapeof the fibres in the fabric. Smaller diameter yields morefibres per unit weight of the material. Higher totalsurface area has greater possibilities of sound wave tointeract with the fibres in the structure [5]. The acous-tic absorption profiles of nonwoven made up of valourfibres, when in low thickness, possess excellent perfor-mance in sound absorption of high frequency, espe-cially above 2000 Hz. The sound absorption of thesystems at the medium and the low frequency can beimproved by increasing the thickness, making themsuitable for automobile sound proofing systems [6]. Theinfluencing factors to make up a fibre assembly to in-crease the absorption coefficient are, to increase thethickness than to reduce its porosity [7]. The soundabsorption performance of the porous materials used inautomobile is not so much of functional type of materiallike Cotton, polyester or Glass Fibre, as it is a functionof how well the material is constructed to achieve therequired properties [8]. The noise absorption coeffi-cient of fibre content usually depends on the content ofthe fine fibres. The nonwoven which have more finefibres have more chance to contact the sound wave.This will cause more resistance by means of friction ofviscosity of the vibration of the air. The nonwoven withthe poor oriented web has a high noise absorptioncoefficient than a well oriented web [9].

The nonwoven as floor covering, using natural fibre(Kenaf, jute, waste cotton and flax) blended withpolypropylene and polyester contributed noise absorp-tion coefficient of 0.5 to 0.81 at 3.2 KHz. The softcotton under pad greatly enhances the sound absorp-tion properties of the nonwoven floor coverings [10,11]. The sound absorption properties of materials areimportant not only for noise reduction but also for con-trolling the reverberation time for speech intelligibility inrooms and promoting fuller sound in concert halls.

The present investigation deals with the developmentof nonwoven products using recycled fibres from waste,generated in garment industry, for the application inautomobile and building interiors.

2. Materials and methods2.1 MaterialsThe cutting waste from the garment industry is col-lected separately as cotton, viscose and polyester fab-rics. The waste fabrics are cut into small pieces bymeans of fabric cutting machine and opened into fibresby fabric opener. The materials are shown in Figure2.1.

(a)

(b)

(c)Figure 2.1: (a) Waste from garment industries. (b) Cut

pieces of fabrics (c) Opened fibres.

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2.2 MethodsThe garment unit wastes are converted in to nonwovenas shown in Figure 2.2. The cutting wastes are cut intosmall pieces of cloth by fabric cutting machine. Thechopped pieces of waste are fed in to the fabric openerwhere they are opened as yarn bits as shown in Figure2.3. By processing twice in the hard waste opener, theyarn tufts are opened further to get fibrous stage.

Figure 2.2 : Method of developing the nonwoven

Figure 2.3 : Fabric opener

The fibrous materials are deposited over the circumfer-ence of the condensing cages to get continuous fibrousweb as in Figure 2.4 by the aerodynamic principle ofweb formation. The fibrous layer from the web formeris sprayed with adhesive to get adhesive bonded non-woven fabric as shown in Figure 2.5.

Figure 2.4: Web former.

Figure 2.5: Chemical bonding

Figure 2.6 : Drying

Care has been taken to bond by adhesive ( Poly VinylAlcohol with Viscosity of 5.0 - 6.0 mpa.s , pH value of5-7 and Specific Gravity 1.30 ) with 20% add onweight. The sprayed sheets are calendared and driedthrough a drying chamber to get the nonwoven fabricas shown in Figure 2.6.The developed samples areshown in Figure 2.7.

(a)

(b)

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(c) Figure 2.7: Developed nonwovens (a) Cotton (b)

Viscose (c) Polyester

2.2.1 Testing methodsThe sound absorption coefficients of the nonwovenswere tested by the impedance tube method based onASTM E 1050 at Marmara University, Turkey. TheSound absorbing function of the nonwovens is to re-duce the noise. A sound source (loud speaker) is mountedat one end of the impedance tube and at the other endthe nonwoven is placed as shown in the Figure 2.8.The loud speaker generates broadband, stationary ran-dom sound. This sound propagates as planner waves inthe tube, hits the sample and gets reflected. Thus, astanding wave interference pattern results due to su-perimposition of forward and backward travelling wavesinside the tube. The sound pressures at two fixedlocations are measured and by using the two-channeldigital frequency analyser, it is possible to determinethe complex reflection coefficient, the sound absorptioncoefficient and the normal acoustic impedance of thenonwoven.

Figure 2.8 : Impedance tube setup for two microphonetransfer function method

The usable frequency range depends on the diameterof the tube and spacing between the microphone posi-tions. The small tube setup with 29mm diameter mea-

sures the parameters of sound in the frequency rangefrom 500Hz to 6.4 KHz. Whereas, the larger tube setupwith100 mm diameter measures the parameters of soundin the frequency range from 50Hz to 1.6 KHz.

2.2.2 Sound absorption co-efficientFor Acoustic absorbing interiors in auditoriums, record-ing theatres, lecture halls and automobiles, sound ab-sorption coefficient is an important factor and hence,the nonwovens produced from recycled fibres of cot-ton, viscose and polyester waste fabrics were testedfor sound absorption. Sound absorption coefficient re-sulting from large tube setup for the nonwovens areshown in Table 2.1 and Figures 3.1, 3.2 and 3.3. FromTable 2.2, it is observed that the sound absorption co-efficient of recycled polyester nonwoven is alwayshigher than that of viscose and cotton in the frequencylevels of 0 Hz to 6400 Hz. From low frequency tohigher frequency, all the three recycled fibres showedgood results. The mean sound absorption coefficient0.21 to 0.51 is observed at the frequency levels of 50Hz to 6400 Hz, increase in absorption is observed whenincreasing the thickness of the nonwovens and backingwith cotton woven cloth.

2.2.3 Physical propertiesThe standard test procedure followed for determiningthe physical properties of the nonwoven samples are:ASTM D 5736 for thickness of the fabric, ASTM D6242 for areal density in grams per square meter; ASTMD 737 for its air permeability.

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Textsmile

Two factory workers are talking.The woman says, "I can make the boss give methe day off."The man replies, "And how would you do that?"The woman says, "Just wait and see." She thenhangs upside-down from the ceiling.The boss comes in and says, "What are youdoing?"The woman replies, "I'm a light bulb."The boss then says, "You've been working somuch that you've gone crazy. I think you needto take the day off."The man starts to follow her and the boss says,"Where are you going?"The man says, "I'm going home, too. I can'twork in the dark."

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3. Results and discussions3.1 Effect of fibre type on sound absorptionDifferent recycled fibres of natural and synthetic fibreshave different properties especially in consideration ofrigidity, elongation, surface properties and resiliency.These properties influence the density of the nonwovens,which in turn affect the sound absorption by the fabric.

Figure 3.1: Sound absorption coefficient of single layernonwovens of Cotton (C1), Viscose

(V1) and Polyester (P1).

The Figure 3.1 shows the sound absorption coefficientsof recycled fibre adhesive bonded nonwoven made outof cotton, viscose and polyester. The evaluation hasbeen done with the single layer, double layer, triplelayer and backing with woven cotton fabric of allsamples of cotton, viscose and polyester. It can beobserved that, because of compactness and intimateblends of fibres, which is due to easy bonding of short

fibre contents with adhesives, that recycled viscose givesthe lowest average sound absorption coefficient (SAC)0.21for V1, 0.31 for V2 and 0.47 for V3 among all thesamples tested.

Recycled cotton fibre nonwoven shows the averageSAC of 0.25(C1), 0.33(C2) and 0.48(C3) higher thanthe viscose. This is due to fine cotton (recycled fibre)with a more compact fabric structure. Polyester beingsynthetic fibre, while recycling, is comparatively lessruptured than viscose and cotton and shows the aver-age SAC of 0.30 (P1), 0.34 (P2) and 0.51(P3) higherthan both the fibres. The recycled fibre nonwovenexhibits higher efficiency of sound absorption due tothe following factors� Effect of fibre diameter.� Shortened length of fibres.� Variable pore geometry of the fabric.

3.2 Effect of number of layers on sound absorptionNonwoven fabrics of recycled fibres, while increasingin the number of layers, the sound absorption coeffi-cient also increases; the Figures 3.1, 3.2 and 3.3 showthe SAC values of single, double and triple layers ofnonwovens. The cotton with single layer having arealdensity of 330.50 g/m2 shows the mean SAC value of0.25, the double layer nonwoven of cotton exhibits 24%increase in mean SAC and the triple layer exhibits 47%increase in the mean SAC. Recycled viscose nonwovensingle layer with areal density of 323.11 g/m2 exhibitsmean SAC of 0.21, double layer exhibits 32% of in-crease in the mean SAC and triple layer exhibits 55%

Table 2.1: Physical properties of the nonwovens

Sample Fibre No. of Areal Bulk Air Porosity Mean MeanNo. layers density density permeability SAC SAC

g/m2 g/cm3 cc/cm2/s (with backing cloth)

C1 Cotton 1 330.50 0.157 98.01 0.897 0.25 0.31C2 Cotton 2 653.00 0.167 69.28 0.891 0.33 0.49C3 Cotton 3 980.77 0.178 37.18 0.884 0.48 0.51V1 Viscose 1 323.11 0.155 106.81 0.898 0.21 0.32V2 Viscose 2 648.01 0.162 81.03 0.893 0.31 0.53V3 Viscose 3 960.21 0.169 39.72 0.888 0.47 0.55P1 Polyester 1 321.19 0.139 91.08 0.899 0.30 0.34P2 Polyester 2 639.00 0.144 56.14 0.895 0.41 0.68P3 Polyester 3 948.03 0.149 34.51 0.892 0.51 0.63

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of increase in SAC. Recycled polyester nonwoven withareal density of 321.19 g/m2 exhibits mean SAC of30%, double layer exhibits 11% increase in the meanSAC and triple layer exhibits 47% of increase in meanSAC.

Figure 3.2 : Sound absorption coefficient of double layernonwovens of Cotton (C2), Viscose

(V2) and Polyester (P2).

Figure 3.3: Sound absorption coefficient of triple layernonwovens of Cotton (C3), Viscose

(V3) and Polyester (P3).

3.3 Effect of areal density on Sound absorptioncoefficient of the nonwovenThe Figure 3.4 shows, when there is an increase inareal density there is an increase in sound absorptioncoefficient for cotton, viscose and polyester nonwovens.Hence, there may be correlation between these twoparameters for all nonwovens. The cotton, viscose andpolyester shows good correlation having R2 value of0.97, 0.9826 and 0.9992 with the equations Y =0.115X+0.1223, Y=0.13X+0.07and Y=0.105X+0.1967.

Figure 3.4 : Effect of areal density on Sound absorptioncoefficient of the nonwovens

3.4 Effect of bulk density on Sound absorption co-efficient of the nonwovensThe influence of bulk density on SAC of nonwovens asshown in Figure 3.5 reveals that the increase in bulkdensity directly increases the SAC. Double layeredcotton nonwoven having the difference in bulk densityof 0.01g/cm3 with the single layered cotton nonwovendepicts 24% increase in SAC. Triple layered cottonnonwoven having the difference in bulk density of 0.021g/cm3 depicts 47% increase in mean SAC. Doublelayered viscose nonwoven having the difference in bulkdensity of 0.007 g/cm3 with single layer depicts 32%increase in mean SAC. Triple layered with differenceof bulk density 0.014 shows 55% increase in meanSAC. Polyester double layered nonwoven having thedifference of bulk density 0.005 g/cm3 with single layerdepicts increase in mean SAC of 26% and triple layerwith difference of bulk density 0 .01 g/cm3 depicts47% of increase in mean SAC.

Figure 3.5. Effect of bulk density on Sound absorptioncoefficient of the nonwovens.

3.5 Effect of air permeability on Sound absorptionpercentage of the nonwovensThe adhesive bonded nonwoven fabrics of recycledcotton, viscose and polyester fabrics while increasing

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the number of layers, decreases air permeability as inFigure 3.6. As the number of layers increases, it notonly increases the areal density and bulk density of thecombined samples, but also increases the short fibrecontent which will occupy the air voids. The Figure 3.7shows a good correlation having R2 value of 0.9783with the equation Y= - 0.0038X +0.6205, it is a signifi-cant negative correlation between sound absorption andair permeability.

Figure 3.6 : Effect of air permeability on sound absorp-tion percentage of the nonwovens.

Figure 3.7 : Correlation between Sound absorption andair permeability of the nonwovens.

3.6 Effect of porosity on Sound absorption coeffi-cient of the nonwovensSimilar to air permeability, lower the level of porosityhigher the level of sound absorption, Figure 3.8 showsthe influence of porosity on sound absorption. Lessporosity and less air permeability of the samples permitthe sound frequency lesser amount at low frequencylevel, but at higher frequency the sound enters into thefine pores and experiences friction between the fibresand adhesives; thus, higher absorption of sound energy.

Figure 3.8 : Effect of porosity on Sound absorptioncoefficient of the nonwovens.

3.7 Effect of woven backing cloth on Sound ab-sorption coefficient of the nonwovensThe nonwovens of cotton, viscose and polyester singlelayer(C1B,V1B & P1B), double layer (C2B,V2B &P2B) and triple layer (C3B,V3B & P3B) backing witha woven plain fabric of 20s warp and 20s weft, whiletested for sound absorption, shows the results as shownin Figure 3.9. The double layer polyester nonwovendepicts the highest SAC of 1, but the nonwoven withthree layers of cotton, viscose and polyester backingwith woven cloth shows insignificant values i.e. R2 <0.9. This is because, though the thickness is more, thebacking cloth reduces the absorbing performance. TheFigure 3.10 shows the SAC values of multi layers ofcotton woven fabric of 20sx20s, in which the six layersof woven cloth performing with highest SAC value of0.69.

Figure 3.9 : Sound absorption performance ofnonwovens made up of recycled cotton,viscose and

polyester backing with cotton woven fabric.

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Figure 3.10 : Sound absorption performance of multilay-ered cotton woven fabric. (CWFLI to CWFL6 - cotton

woven fabric layers one to six)

3.8 Multi variable ANOVA analysisThe sound absorption values of the nonwovens madeup of recycled cotton, viscose and polyester with dif-ferent thickness was analysed using statistical tool ofmultivariable ANOVA analysis and their values are givenin Table 3.1. From the results, it is observed that thereare significant differences found between the samplesof cotton, viscose and polyester at 95 % confidencelevel shows Factual >Fcritical (130.2105 > 6.944272).It is due to the different structural properties of therecycled fibres. Likewise, the other fabric propertieslike aerial density, bulk density, air permeability andporosity were analysed and it was found that there aresignificant differences between the samples because ofthe types of the fibres (natural, regenerated and syn-thetic).

Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit

Anova:TwoFactorWithoutReplication (Aerial density)

Between samples 610714.6 2 305357.3 7283.095 7.54E-08 6.944272Within samples 528.9687 2 264.4843 6.308231 0.057949 6.944272Error 167.7074 4 41.92686Total 611411.3 8Source of Variation SS Df MS F P-value F crit

Anova:TwoFactorWithoutReplication (Sound absorption coefficient)Between samples 0.082467 2 0.041233 130.2105 0.000229 6.944272Within samples 0.009267 2 0.004633 14.63158 0.014461 6.944272Error 0.001267 4 0.000317Total 0.093 8Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit

Anova:TwoFactorWithoutReplication (Bulk density)Between samples 0.000338 2 0.000169 21.7 0.007121 6.944272Within samples 0.000897 2 0.000448 57.65714 0.001124 6.944272Error 3.11E-05 4 7.78E-06Total 0.001266 8Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit

Anova:TwoFactorWithoutReplication (Porosity)Between samples 0.000156 2 7.8E-05 26.36486 0.004972 6.944272Within samples 2.91E-05 2 1.46E-05 4.918919 0.083557 6.944272Error 1.18E-05 4 2.96E-06Total 0.000197 8Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit

Anova:TwoFactorWithoutReplication (Air permeability)Between samples 5674.447 2 2837.223 115.8619 0.000288 6.944272Within samples 350.2265 2 175.1132 7.150988 0.047767 6.944272Error 97.95191 4 24.48798Total 6122.625 8

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Table 3.1 : Multivariable ANOVA analysis

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4. ConclusionsThe recycled fibre nonwovens as acoustic absorbingmaterials were developed by using the fibres recycledfrom the waste fabrics of cotton, viscose and polyestercollected from the garment industries. The nonwovenswere tested for acoustic absorption by ASTM E 1050.It is observed that polyester fibre nonwoven has thehighest absorption coefficient in lowest frequency lev-els and highest frequency levels. Hence, it is concludedthat the nonwoven made of polyester with its closerstructure and higher sound absorbing coefficient (0.93)is much suited for interiors in buildings and automotive.The cotton and viscose nonwovens are also havingsound absorption of 84% and 86% at 6400Hz. Themajor applications of these developed nonwoven prod-ucts may be suggested to use for floor coverings andwall coverings in auditorium.

From this research work the following conclusions arederived:

� The recycled fibre nonwoven exhibits higher effi-ciency of sound absorption due to the followingfactors such as Effect of fibre diameter, Shortenedlength of fibres, Variable pore geometry of the fabricetc.

� Nonwoven fabrics of recycled fibres while increas-ing the number of layers, also increases the soundabsorption coefficient.

� When there is an increase in areal density there isan increase in sound absorption.

� The influence of bulk density on SAC of nonwovensreveals that the increase in bulk density directlyincreases the SAC.

� There is a significant negative correlation betweensound absorption and air permeability.

� While air permeability and porosity are at lowerlevels, the sound absorption will be at higher level.

� The double layer polyester nonwoven backing withwoven cotton fabric nonwoven depicts the highestSAC of 1, but the nonwoven with three layers ofcotton, viscose and polyester backing with wovencloth shows insignificant values i.e. R2 < 0.9.

References

1. Thilagavathi, G., Pradeep, E., Kannaian, T., andSasikala, L., Development of Natural Fibre Non-woven for Application as Car Interiors for NoiseControl, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 39(3), 267-278,(2010).

2. Teli, M.D., Pal, A., and Dipankar Roy. Efficacy ofNonwoven Materials as Sound Insulator, IndianJournal of Fibre &Textile Research, 32(2), 202-206, (2007).

3. Sezgin Ersoy., and Haluk kuck. Investigation ofIndustrial Tea Leaf Waste Materials for its SoundAbsorption Properties, Applied Acoustics, 70(2),215-220, (2009).

4. Rozli Zulkifi., Mohd Nor. Comparison of AcousticProperties Between Coir Fibre and Oil Palm Fi-bre. European Journal of Scientific Research,33(1), 144-152, (2009).

5. Attalla, N., Panneton, Sgard, R., F.C. and Olny, X.Acoustic Absorption of Macro-Perforated PorousMaterials, Journal of Sound and Vibration,243(4), 659-678, (2001).

6. Mevlut Tascan, Edward, A. Vaghn. Effect of TotalSurface Area and Density on the AcousticalBehaviour of Needle Punched Nonwoven Fabrics.Textile Research Journal, 78(4), 289-296, (2008).

7. Parikh, D.V., Calamri, T.A. Swahney, A.P.S. andBlanchard, E.J. Thermoformable Automotive Com-posites Containing Kenaf and other Cellulosic Fi-ber, Textile Research Journal, 72(8), 668-672,(2002).

8. Sadao aso, Rikuhiro Kinoshita. Absorption of Soundwave by Fabrics, Journal of the Textile Machin-ery Society of Japan. 10(5), 236-241, (1964).

9. Youneunglee, Chang whanjoo. Sound AbsorptionProperties of Recycled Polyester Fibrous Absorb-ers. Autex Research Journal. 3(2), 78-84, (2003).

10. Parikh, D.V., Chen, Y., Sachnvala, Sun, L. Re-ducing Automotive Interior Noise with Natural Fi-ber Nonwoven Floor Covering Systems, TextileResearch Journal, 76(11), 813-820, (2006).

11. Young, N.A, Jeff Lancaster, John casali Gilsoo cho.Sound Absorption Coefficients of micro- fiber Fab-rics by Reverberation Room Method. Textile re-search Journal 77(5), 330-335, (2007).

�����

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

Texttreasure

No road is too long for him who advancesslowly and does not hurry, and no attain-ment is beyond his reach who equips him-self with patience to achieve it.

- Jean de La Bruyère

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Textile industry and Chemical indus-try have been linked together sincethe beginning of industrial revolu-tion and without chemical industrythere would be no modern textileindustry. Textile industry has playedan important role in the develop-ment of human civilization overseveral millennia. Coal, iron/steeland cotton were the principal mate-rials upon which the industrial revo-lution was based. Technical devel-opments from the second part ofeighteenth century onwards lead toexponential growth of cotton outputin the UK and later to Germanyand Asian countries. The produc-tion of synthetic fibers started atthe beginning of the twentieth cen-tury increased exponential growthof the textile sector. It is estimatedthat over 6000 unique compoundsare used in the production of textileand apparel products. Textile manu-facturing is one of the world's old-est and most mature industries.Worldwide, textile production andconsumption have followed alongterm growth rate of about 2–3% per year, the recent economicrecession notwithstanding. The mostsignificant growth has occurred inthe developing countries and thatpattern is likely to continue in theforeseeable future.

Environmental and Health Im-pactsMost information sources on tex-tiles focus on the environmentalimpacts related to the productionand processing of textiles, and/orpossible health impacts related tothe use of the products themselves.In many cases these two impact

Environmental Concerns In TextileProcessing

C.N.Sivaramakrishnan is a Bsc Tech inTextile chemistry & Fellow- CharteredColourist (UK) and has over 30 yearsexperience in the Textile wet processingand Specialty chemical manufacturingindustries. He has an extensive work ex-perience in process houses and millsacross India. He has grass root knowl-edge of Textile chemistry and its applica-tions to wet processing of Textiles, besidesSurfactants, Specialty chemicals, andEffluent treatment chemicals, Pulp &paper chemicals, Industrial gums andother polymers. Participated in an essaycompetition conducted by Sandoz IndiaLimited and got second prize for the paper- Problems and solutions in the dyeing ofpolyester and its blends and was awardedcash price. One of the major achieve-ments in the early 90s was the setting upof a modern Ethoxylation plant. He hasworked with the Textiles Committee {Govtof India} as Consultant for the clusterdevelopment programme initiative andhas conducted many trainingprogrammes across the country. He is avisiting faculty at various education insti-tutes for Graduate, Master and PostGraduate students and has been an ex-aminer at Institute of Chemical Technol-ogy, MANTRA, and NIMMS. He has pre-sented papers at various national andinternational conferences. Awarded aBronze medal by the Society of Dyersand Colourist UK for enthusiastic servicesin the development of SDC Educationcharity in India. He has authored a bookANTHOLOGY OF SPECIALTY CHEMI-CALS FOR TEXTILES which was releasedat the Global conference of the Society ofDyers and Colourist in Goa. He is thefounder Trustee of SDC Education Char-ity and served in various capacities be-fore retiring as Chairman of Board ofTrustees. C.N.Sivaramakrishnan was se-lected Pidilite Industries Limited visitingFellow for the year 2011 - 2012. He is aprolific writer in many national and in-ternational journals of repute on currentissues related to chemical technology andEco textiles. He is currently working onEnvironmental solutions for Textile in-dustry. He is a Life Member of TextileAssociation (India) and Association ofChemical Technologists (India).

areas overlap as they derive fromthe use of chemicals and other sub-stances which may have both envi-ronmental and health impacts. Agreat variety of material types areused in textiles, some naturallygrown, and some synthetically pro-duced. Both the production/cultiva-tion and then the processing of suchmaterials are highly varied and con-sequently have a variety of impacts.As with foodstuffs, for naturallygrown fibers such as cotton, the useof pesticides and fertilizers (organicor nonorganic production) is of par-ticular importance from an environ-mental perspective, however theprocessing and "finishing" of prod-ucts is also significant. For syntheticfibers concerns relate to both thechemicals used to manufacture theproducts as well as processing andfinishing. In the 1960s, while thechemical industry was experiencingenormous growth, it was alreadybecoming clear that there were se-rious issues with regard to thesafety of certain chemicals. Con-cern was steadily growing abouttheir widespread distribution and thefact that their presence in the envi-ronment could be provoking pro-found health and environmentalproblems.

Ecology and TextilesIn the last two decades, textile pro-cessing has become increasinglyconcerned to achieve and demon-strate sound environmental perfor-mance by controlling the effect oftheir activities, products and pro-cesses taking into consideration itsenvironmental policies and objec-tives. Textile industry plays a major

TEXPERIENCE

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role in this Eco awarenessprogramme.

Textile ecology can be broadly clas-sified in three main categories

��Ecology of processing��Ecology in the waste��Human ecology

It is expected of textile industry,particularly the processing sector, tostrictly adhere to the ecological re-strictions from the cultivation of cropto finished product which includeswaste management techniques. Theawareness of the environmentaldamage caused by textile produc-tion has provoked a different re-sponse from the textile industry.Textile processing sectors are fac-ing challenging conditions in the fieldof quality and productivity, due toglobalization of the world market.The guidelines for the textile pro-cessing industries by the pollutioncontrol boards create concern overthe environment-friendliness of theprocesses. This in turn makes itessential for innovations andchanges in the processes. Biotech-nology is one such field that ischanging the conventional process-ing to eco friendly processing of thetextiles.

Expectations of Ecological textilesare;

� Processed with less damaginginputs.

� Processing units with good sew-age treatment.

� Fabrics of good quality and longlasting.

Ecologically grown fibersWhat is Ecology? Ecology is thestudy of how living things and theirenvironment interact with each otherand is derived from Greek word

Oikos which means house hold andLogos the study of environment.Industrial ecology views industrialsystem as an artificial system, withprimary sources of raw materialsand energy and with a number ofenterprises making use of whatwould otherwise be waste productsof other members of the systempracticed in a manner that minimizesenvironmental impact while optimiz-ing utilization of resources, energyand capital.

In exhaust dyeing unfixed dyestuffsremain in the bath and load thewaste water depending on the dye-stuff type and process conditions.

Average degrees of fixation of dye-stuffs in exhaust dyeing are sum-marized

Dyestuff type Degree of fixation %Reactive 55 to 97Vat 75 to 95Disperse 88to 99Direct 64 to 96Acid 85 to 98Metal Complex 82 to 98Sulphur 60 to 95Basic 96 to 100Chrome 95 to 98Pigment 100%

[Schulze-Rettmer, 1996]

Wastewater from dye bathes orrinsing bathes (resp. residual liquorsif padding technologies are used) areloaded with the non exhausted dyes,dyeing auxiliaries, salts, alkali andacids. It has to be taken into ac-count that a dye-formulation con-tains approx. 30-60% pure dyestuff(rough estimation); the major partof the formulation consists – de-pending on dyestuff class and ap-plication field - of non biodegrad-able dispersing agents (e.g.naphthalenesulfonic acid formalde-

hydeCondensation products or lignin sul-fonates), standardizing agents (salts)andadditives (anti-freeze agentsetc.)An overview on the main ecologi-cal loads concerning the importantdyestuff classes is given (multipur-pose dyeing auxiliaries used for allthe dyeing techniques are not men-tioned).

Dyestuff class Ecological ImpactReactive Partially low fixation

degree, AOX source,low adsorption ten-dency of dyestuff hy-drolysates in acti-vated sludge treat-ment, high amount ofsalts (sodium chlo-ride, sodium sulfate)

Vat Reducing agents (sul-fur compounds), par-tially halogen con-taining oxidizingagents

Disperse Carriers, reductive af-ter treatment (sulfurcompounds)

Direct Salt, after treatmentwith water toxic cat-ionic agents

Metal complex Heavy metal contentin dyestuffs

Sulfur Sulfur containingdyestuffs and reduc-ing agents, partiallyhalogen containingoxidizing agent

Basic Retarder in dyeingPAC (quaternary am-monium compounds)

Chrome ChromeSustainable strategies can give sig-nificant environmental benefits likereduction up to 35 to 40% in totalenergy use, 12 to 15% in waterconsumption, 65 to 70% in electric-ity consumption and 35 to 38% car-bon- dioxide emissions.

TEXPERIENCE

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World wide there is increase indemand for improved or even newproperties of textiles, especially tech-nical textile as high performanceproducts. Nano-science andnanotechnology combined, have re-vitalized material science.Nanotechnology is an emerging in-terdisciplinary area that is expectedto have wide ranging implications inall fields of science and technologysuch as material science, mechan-ics, electronics, optics, medicine,aerospace, plastics and textiles.

The word "Nano" inNanotechnology stands for one bil-lionth of a meter i.e. (1nm = 10-9m). "Nano" is the Greek word for"dwarf" and approximately 10,000times finer than a human hair. Theconcept of nanotechnology is notnew. The self-cleaning properties ofLotus leaf, which are due to itscarefully designed nanostructuredsurface and tooth and bone, thenatural nano biocomposites are be-ing excellent examples ofNanotechnology already existing innature. There has been a clear shiftto nanomaterials as a new tool toimprove properties and gain multifunctionalities.

The first generation ofNanotechnology was during thebeginning of year 2000 and includespassive nanostructures, illustrated bynanostructured coatings, dispersionof nanoparticles, nanocomposites,and nanostructures made of metals,polymers, ceramics, bio-buildingblocks. Some examples were in thecase of sunscreen zinc oxide or ti-

tanium dioxide, carbon nanotubes inthe case of golf balls etc. SecondGeneration was the beginning ofyear 2005 which included activenanostructures, illustrated by tran-sistors, amplifiers, targeted drugs andchemicals, biological and non-bio-logical sensors, actuators, and adap-tive structures. The third genera-tion started at the beginning of year2010 and includes three-dimensionalnanosystems and nanosystems us-ing various synthesis and assemblytechniques such as bio-assembly,networking at the nanoscale, andmultiscale architectures. The fourthgeneration is to begin in the year2015 and will include materials bydesign and heterogeneous molecu-lar nanosystems, where each mol-ecule in the nanosystem has a spe-cific structure and plays a differentrole. Molecules will be used asdevices, and from their engineeredstructures and architectures willemerge fundamentally new func-tions.

The production of nanotechnologybased textile products is illustratedin the figure below.

Production of Nanotechnology basedTextile Products in 2010

Application of Nanotechnologyin textiles

� Water and Oil Repellent (hy-drophobic) NanofinishesMany plants in nature exhibit un-usual wetting characteristic of su-per hydrophobicity example, theLotus leaf. A super hydrophobicsurface is the one that can bead offwater droplets completely. Superhydrophobic silica coating film whichare transparent and durable havebeen developed on cotton sub-strates. This nanocomposite coat-ing has new applications in daily usematerial and plastics or textiles andis an ecofriendly substitute for fluo-rocarbon based water repellant fin-ish. The air permeability of the fab-ric remains unchanged and thewashing durability of the coatings isalso good.

� Self Cleaning SurfacesThere are basically two types ofself-cleaning surfaces. In the firstplace there are extremely waterrepellent rough surfaces on to whichdirt particles can hardly get a holdon them and are, therefore, re-moved by rain or by a simple rinsein water.The second example is given byphoto-catalytic layers such as alayer of titanium oxide, the coatingof which results in destruction oforganic material by solar irradiation.

� Hydrophilic Nano FinishesIt is well known that Polyester andpolyamides have poor moisture ab-sorption property which limits itsapplications in the apparel sector. A

TEXNOTES

Nanotechnology Based Finishing :The Expanding Field in Textiles

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special treatment has been devel-oped which gives durable cellulosewrapping over synthetic fibers suchas polyester and polyamides ascore. In this, a cellulosic sheath andsynthetic core together form a con-centric structure to bring overallsolutions to the drawbacks of syn-thetics such as static discharge,harsh handle and glaring luster.

� Antibacterial NanofinishesMetallic ions and metallic com-pounds display a certain degree ofsterilizing effect. Hence, for impart-ing anti-bacterial properties, nano-sized silver, titanium dioxide and zincoxide are used. It is assumed thatpart of the oxygen in the air orwater is turned into active oxygenby means of catalysis with themetallic ion, thereby dissolving theorganic substance to create asterilising effect. With the use ofnano-sized particles, the number ofparticles per unit area is increased,and thus anti-bacterial effects canbe maximised.

� UV Protective NanofinishesVarious Semiconductor oxides likeTiO2, ZnO, SiO2 and Al2O3 areknown to have UV blocking prop-erty. It is also known that nanosizedTiO2 and ZnO particles are moreefficient at absorbing and scatter-ing UV radiation as have muchlarger surface area to volume ratiothan the conventional size particles.A lot of efforts have been made onthe application UV blocking treat-

ment to fabrics usingnanotechnology.

� Antistatic NanofinishesSynthetic fibers such as Nylon andpolyester are prone to static chargeaccumulation due to less absorptionof water. It has been observed thatnanosized TiO2, ZnO whiskers, nanoantimony-doped tin oxide (ATO) andsilane nanosol could impart antistaticproperties to synthetic fibers. TiO2,ZnO nanoparticles are electricallyconductive materials and help dissi-pate the static charge in these fi-bers.

� Wrinkle ResistanceResin is commonly used in conven-tional methods to impart wrinkleresistance to fabric. However, thereare limitations of using resin, includ-ing a decrease in the tensile strengthof fibre, abrasion resistance, waterabsorbency and dyeability, as wellas breathability. To overcome theselimitations, research has been car-ried out on nano-titanium dioxideand nano-silica to improve thewrinkle resistance of cotton and silkrespectively. Nano-titanium dioxidecan be used with carboxylic acid asa catalyst under UV irradiation tocatalyse the cross-linking reactionbetween the cellulose molecule andthe acid. On the other hand, nano-silica can be applied with maleicanhydride as a catalyst to success-fully improve the wrinkle resistanceof silk.

Shortcoming of NanomaterialsWhile nanotechnology offers manybenefits for the textiles industry,there are some related health andenvironmental risks. The concern isthat nano particles manufactured inindustry and in research lab can pos-sibly enter the environment, the foodchain, and the human body, but theirtoxicity is not fully understood. Fac-tors that affect toxicity of nanoparticles include their surface areaand their surface chemistry, and thefact that nano particles of givenmaterial can behave differently thanlarger particles of same composi-tion. Although nanotechnology isrelatively new, there is greater po-tential for negative consequencerelated to health and environmentas nano particles become morewidely used.

Nano-technology definitely has thepotential for revolutionize almostevery industry and textile is no dif-ferent. Many functional finisheshave already been imparted on tex-tiles such as antimicrobial, UV pro-tective, anti soil etc. but these areyet to be vigorously commercialized.A focus on this field would yieldmany enhanced functional proper-ties on textiles and may pave a newway for development of textiles ingeneral and Technical textiles inparticular.

-By Chet Ram Meena &Neha Khurana

TEXNOTES

JTA : An effective marketing toolfor strengthening business promotion

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India ITME Society organized aPromotional Show of INDIA ITME2012 9th India International TextileMachinery Exhibition held on 21stJuly, 2012 at Hotel St. Laurn Tower,Ahmedabad. The programme wassupported by the Textile Associa-tion (India) Ahmedabad Unit. Mr.T.L. Patel, President, TAI-Ahmedabad Unit welcomed all thedignitaries, guests and invitees dur-ing the function.

AHMEDABAD - UNIT

The Textile Association (India)

Mr. T.L. Patel, President, TAI-Ahmedabad Unit welcoming the

gathering

Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, DirectorCED, Govt. of Gujarat, Gandhinagarwas the Chief Guest ofthe Function. Mr. RanjikantS. Bachkaniwala, Chairman, IndiaITME Society delivered speech andhighlighted about the forthcomingINDIA ITME 2012 Exhibitionthrough the video presentation ofsaid exhibition. Mr. Purandar Datta,Consulting Coordinator of Design

Clinic Scheme for MSMEs- NID,Ahmedabad presented about DesignClinic Scheme at the function. Morethan 100 invitees attended the func-tion. The promotional show wasvery much motivating for INDIAITME 2012 exhibition to be held on2Nd - 7th Dec, 2012 at Mumbai.Lastly Mr. Sanjay Lathia, Hon.Treasurer of India ITME Societyproposed the vote of thanks.

Ms Seema Srivastava, ExecutiveDirector, India ITME, briefing about

INDIA ITME 2012

UNIT ACTIVITIES

Yashwantrao Chavan Maharashtra Open University, NashikDnyangangotri, Near Gangapur Dam, Nashik- 422 222 (MH)

Phone: (0253) 2231480, 2230171,Fax: (0253) 2231480In Association with

The Textile Association (India), Central Office,Pathare House, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 (MH)

Phone: (022) 24461145, Fax: (022) 24474971Announces an Innovative programme in Textiles

B.A (Textile)Duration : 3 Years

Medium : Hindi / English / Marathi Eligibility: 12th Passed or Passed the preparatory programme of YCMOU

Features:• Degree programme is divided into six certificate programmes each of six months duration.• Easy to understand Study Material• Attendance in contact sessions is not mandatory• Course best suited for Textile workersFor details interested may contact School of Continuing Education Cell of the university on above address.

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Indian Technical Textiles Industry to Reach US $28.7 Billion by 2017

By: Seshadri Ramkumar, TexasTech University, USATechnical textiles market size inIndia will skyrocket to US $ 28.7billion by 2016-17.Speaking at an event organized byMinistry of Textiles-India and PSGCollege of Technology inCoimbatore-India on August 3rd,

Ministry of Textiles officials wereupbeat about the growth prospectsof the technical textiles industry inIndia, according to media reports.According to government officials,the market size of technical textilesin India will reach US $28.7 billionfrom the current size of US$ 10.3billion. Five year's back, the market

size of this industry was US$ 7.6billion.Industrial segment of the technicaltextiles is estimated to grow at anannual rate of 11% and contributes8% of the total technical textilesmarket.In 2008, Texas Tech University'sreport predicted that India's tech-textiles sector will grow in doubledigits and the next two decades willwitness steady growth.

Certification standards for organic textilesunveiled by government

The government introduced nationalcertification standards for organictextiles aimed at boosting their de-mand in major markets, includingEurope and Japan.The Indian Standards for OrganicTextiles (ISOT), which werelaunched by Commerce, Industryand Textiles Minister AnandSharma, would be included underthe NationalProgramme for Organic Productions(NPOP). The NPOP, which is a

legal regime administered by theMinistry of Commerce and Indus-try, includes norms for organic pro-duction and processing of agricul-ture crops along with certificationstandards. Earlier, private standardsprevailed in the country for organictextiles and these were not in con-formity with the international bench-marks, according to officials. "Byintroducing ISOT,India took over the long-standingposition of the Global Organic Tex-

tiles standards (GOTS), which areprivate standards prevailing in theorganic textiles industry," CommerceSecretary S R Rao said at a func-tion organised by Agricultural andProcessed Food Products ExportDevelopment Authority of India(APEDA). Also, India has the dis-tinction of being the onlycountry in the world to have intro-duced organic textiles standards atthe national level, Rao said. During2011-12, organic textiles exportswere pegged at Rs 1,027 crore,according to the data provided bythe APEDA.

The house of Siyaram's has broughtItaly's most iconic fashion houses -Moretti to develop a premium rangeof pure Italian design shirting inIndia. After having several success-ful brands like J Hampstead, MiStair,Siyaram's MSD, Oxemburg and therecently launched "Royale Linen"from the House of Siyaram; Moretticomes as a brand that defines styleand class.

Speaking on the occasion Mr.Ramesh Poddar - Chairman & MDSiyaram Silk Mills Ltd. said - "Intoday's time when consumer's fash-ion taste are constantly evolving weare happy

Italy's Moretti now in India by Siyaram's

to bring MORETTI into India.

The designs and the palette ofshades and textures that Morettioffers will appeal to the fashionconscious Indian Consumers.Moretti offers ensemble of cottonfabrics manufactured from purestof extra long staple cotton that re-sults into 100% comfort & style forits class.Fabrics from Moretti will have in-novative finishes like Liquid Ammo-nia process, silk protein and easycare finish that resulting into highCrease Recovery, Wrinkle resis-tance &recovery, reduced requirements for

ironing or enhanced/easier to irongarments, low shrinkage post wash-ing, high Luster, increased fiber elas-ticity, softer handle, enhanced ten-sile strength. The signature fabricsthat are passed on from generationto generation under Moretti comein appealing designs such as checks,stripes, plains and in extremely in-spiring colours.

NEWS

Texttreasure

Success is not final, fail-ure is not fatal: it is thecourage to continue thatcounts.

- Winston Churchill

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India turns net cotton importer despite havingrecord crop

Textile mills have started importingcotton and are likely to purchase 2million bales in 2011-12 marketing year ending nextmonth, as excess exports have ledto the shortage of the fibre in thedomestic market. India, the world'ssecond largest cotton grower, hasexported about 12.5 million bales (of170 kg each) in 2011-12 so far."There is a shortage of cotton inthe domestic market as about 12.5million bales of natural fibre havebeen exported and arrivals are alsoless," a Textiles Ministry officialsaid. Textile mills have started im-porting cotton mainly from the US

and Africa and are expected topurchase a total of 2 million balesthis year, the official said. GeneralD K Nair, Secretary, Confederationof Indian Textile Industry (CITI)said, "As of now, mills have imported0.5 million bales of cotton and havecontracted for over 1 million bales."

With domestic prices ruling higherthan that in the global markets, theTextiles Ministry official said thatmills are importing cheaper cottonto meet their domestic demand. Thenatural fibre prices in India are 10per cent costlier at Rs 38,000 percandy compared to the global mar-

ket. The official, further added, millsare facing difficulty in sourcingcotton as arrivals have come downplus the exportable surplus has cometo negative because of huge ex-ports.

Based on arrivals, total cotton pro-duction is seen to be 33.6 millionbales in 2011-12 marketing year,much lower than the AgricultureMinistry's estimate of a record 35.2million bales for the same period.The domestic requirement is about26 million bales. Industry expertsfeel, going forward, the situationmight get worse in the coming yearas some parts of the major cottongrowing states like Gujarat andMaharashtra are facing drought-likeconditions.

Century Textiles and Industries Lim-ited has planned to launch its Digi-tal Print Bed Sets in August 2012for niche market segment along withvalue addition using embroidery,special finishes and special weaves.The company foucus on expandingits business of Bed Linen in Do-mestic Market and would like toachieve the sales turnover of morethan Rs. 50 crores on ex-factoryprice in coming 2 years, informedMr. R. C. Panwar, Joint President,

Century Textiles to launch Digital Print Bed SetsMarketing, Century Textiles.

He also informed that the digitalprint bed set will be made availableto retailers in small lots of 100pieces and the MRP of the digitalprint bed set will range between Rs.2999 to Rs. 4500. These bed setswill be available in six designs infine to super-fine counts.

It is noteworthy that, the CenturyTextiles having established itself as

an innovative leader in cottons hasrecently refocused on the 100%cotton bed and linen products. Toaddress the needs of ever changingglobal market a wide range of bedand linen products of different threadcounts, weaves, textures & finisheshave recently been introduced. Theproduct range includes bed sheets,towels, quilt duvet covers etc. Cen-tury Textiles products are being soldto reputed brands like MACY'SBblk in USA, Carre Blanc etc.

NEWS

The Textile Association (India)Meet us at the fairOn 2nd to 7th December , 2012

Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre,Goregaon (E), Mumbai

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Picanol India has inaugurated itsnew headquarters on 3rd August2012 in New Delhi. The officialinauguration took place in the pres-ence of H.E. Mr. Didier Reynders,Deputy Prime Minister and Minis-ter of Foreign Affairs, Foreign Tradeand European Affairs of Belgium,and Mr. Pierre Vaesen, Ambassa-dor of Belgium to India. Mr. LucTack, Managing Director of thePicanol Group, and Mr. KamalOswal, Vice Chairman of NaharIndustrial Group, were also presentat the inauguration.

During the inaugural address Mr.Luc Tack, Managing Director,Picanol group gave a short intro-duction of his company. He said thatover the space of seven and a halfdecades Picanol played a pioneer-ing role developer and manufacturerof highly productive weaving sys-tems. He illustrated the figures ofhis company and production. Hewas proud in opening a new Indianheadquarters with another milestonein the long history of Picanol. Healso mentioned that with opening ofnew office, their ambition does notstop but company will introducebroadest product range in market,improve local services and presenceand will remain committed to Indiaand increase their leadership inweaving systems for the Indianweaving sector. He hoped thatPicanol will contribute further ex-pansion of Indian textile industry andwill continue to deliver the bestweaving machines, services andtechnology to Indian customers.

PICANOL India Moves to New Headquarters in New Delhi

Mr. Luc Tack, Managing Director,PICANOL Group addressing during

inauguration of Picanol IndiaNew Delhi office

Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Head In-dian Operation briefed about theactivities of Picanol. He said inrecent years, Picanol India has seena steady growth in its market share,which has led to it becoming theleading provider of weaving ma-chines on the local market today.India is a market of crucial impor-tance for Picanol as it is one of thekey textile markets in the world. Aspart of its further growth plans,Picanol India purchased new head-quarters in downtown New Delhiat the end of 2011. The print repairshop and the office, which werelocated in separate buildings, havebeen brought together in the newbuilding. The inauguration of the newoffices marks a new milestone forPicanol in India. Picanol India alsohas regional offices in Mumbai andCoimbatore and currently employs35 people."We are excited to expand our op-erations and move to a new facility.With the broadest product range onthe market, improved local servicesand considerable presence, Picanol

remains highly committed to Indiaand plans to be the leading providerof weaving systems for the entireIndian weaving sector. We appreci-ate all of the support that we havereceived from both state and localofficials, and would therefore liketo express our utmost gratitude tothe Belgian and Indian governmentrepresentatives for the excellent co-operation in India" stated Mr.Palanisamy Kasiviswanathan, Headof Indian Operations.

About the Picanol Group

The Picanol Group is an interna-tional, customer-oriented group spe-cialized in the development, produc-tion and sale of weaving machinesand other high-technology products,systems and services. The Weav-ing Machines division (Picanol) de-velops, manufactures and sells high-tech weaving machines based onair (airjet) or rapier technology.Picanol supplies weaving machinesto weaving mills worldwide, andalso offers its customers such prod-ucts and services as training, up-grade kits, spare parts and servicecontracts. For 75 years, Picanol hasplayed a pioneering role in the in-dustry worldwide, and is one of thecurrent world leaders in weavingmachine production.

The Industries division covers allactivities not related to weavingmachines: Proferro comprises thefoundry and the group's machiningactivities. It produces cast iron partsfor e.g. compressors, pumps andagricultural machinery, and parts for

NEWS

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Picanol weaving machines. ThroughPsiControl Mechatronics, the groupspecializes in the design, develop-ment, manufacturing and support oftechnological components, servicesand mechatronical system solutionsfor original equipment manufactur-ers in various industries. Melottedevelops and produces innovativeproduct solutions using Direct Digi-tal Manufacturing (DDM) andNear-to-Net-Shape Manufacturing(NNSM) technologies.

In addition to the headquarters inYpres (Belgium), the Picanol Grouphas production facilities in Asia andEurope, linked to its own worldwidesales and service network. In 2011,the Picanol Group realized a con-solidated turnover of 466.95 millioneuros. The Picanol Group employsmore than 1,900 employees world-wide and is listed on NYSEEuronext Brussels (PIC). For moreinformation, please visitw w w . p i c a n o l . b eorwww.picanolgroup.com.

Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Head of IndianOperations, Picanol addressing

the gathering

Mr. Kamal Oswal, Vice Chairman ofNahar Industrial enterprises Ltd.

receiving the memento by hands of Mr.Luc Tack, Managing Director

Mr. Kamal Oswal, Vice Chairman ofNahar Industrial enterprises Ltd.

Sharing his experience with Picanol

Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan welcoming H.E. Mr.Didier Reynders, Deputy Prime Ministerand Minister of Foreign Affairs, ForeignTrade and European Affairs of Belgium

H.E. Mr. Didier Reynders, Deputy PrimeMinister Inaugurating new India

headquarter of Picanol

During the inaugural address Mr.Luc Tack, Managing Director,Picanol group gave a short intro-duction of his company. He said thatover the space of seven and a halfdecades Picanol played a pioneer-ing role developer and manufacturerof highly productive weaving sys-tems. He illustrated the figures ofhis company and production. Hewas proud in opening a new Indianheadquarters with another milestonein the long history of Picanol. Healso mentioned that with opening ofnew office, their ambition does notstop but company will introducebroadest product range in market,improve local services and presenceand will remain committed to Indiaand increase their leadership inweaving systems for the Indianweaving sector. He hoped thatPicanol will contribute further ex-pansion of Indian textile industry andwill continue to deliver the bestweaving machines, services andtechnology to Indian customers.

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The Advanced Academy for De-velopment of Textile Technologists,a joint venture between Alok In-dustries Limited and DyStar IndiaPrivate Limited, recently held itsconvocation ceremony of their sec-ond batch students. Mr. VirenderKumar Arora, Chairman of D De-cor Home Furnishing was the ChiefGuest for the function and presentedthe certificate to the passing stu-dents. Addressing the convocation,Mr. Virender Kumar Arora, passion-ately spoke about his student days

AADTT's second batch of students ready to joinIndian textile industry

and congratulated all involved forthis unparalleled initiative andachievement. Mr. Arora also ex-tended support to the AADTT ac-tivities by offering the required train-ing and employment opportunities tothe students of AADTT.

In his inaugural address, Mr. RajeshBalakrishnan, Managing Trustee ofAADTT, spoke on the need forcompetent professionals in the tex-tile industry who could be groomedinto potential leaders of tomorrow

and the commitment from both part-ners, Alok and DyStar, to make thispossible through the AADTT. Mr.V. R. Sai Ganesh, General Man-ager - BusinessDevelopment, DyStar India andactive faculty member of theAADTT, encouraged students totake opportunity of this unique plat-form, as such opportunities were notavailable during his student days andthanked the Academy to include himas a part of the faculty. Mr. R.Rajaram, Managing Trustee andPresident of Alok Industries Lim-ited also addressed the convocation.

MS. Kiran Dhingra, Secretary, Min-istry of Textiles inaugurated the IndiaPavilion at International Fashion Fair,Tokyo, Japan. Dr. A. Sakthivel,Chairman, AEPC welcomed Sec-retary, Ministry of Textiles. India'sparticipation in IFF Tokyo has grownto 155 booths. The fair is expectedto bring 30,000 buyers in three days.

Ms. Dhingra also witnessed a Fash-ion Show, showcasing India's fash-ion, strength and products. Therewas an overwhelming response ofJapanese buyers in India's pavilion.In a bid to give greater impetus totrade and investments in apparelsector, Smt. Dhingra is leading adelegation to Tokyo. Speaking onthe occasion she said, "This kind ofparticipation will strengthen the In-dia and Japan Economic Partner-ship and boost the trade. Under theIndia- Japan CEPA, India will bebenefited by Japanese investments,technology and world-class manage-ment practices that come with it.Japan can take advantage of India'shuge and growing market and re-sources, especially its human re-

India Pavilion in Int'l Fashion Fair in Tokyo

sources. The Agreement which iscomprehensive in nature will fur-ther strengthen India- Japan eco-nomic ties to the benefit of bothcountries immensely. CEPA pro-vides a win-win situation for boththe countries." The InternationalFashion Fair is Japan's largest fash-ion business trade show held twiceevery year in the months of Janu-ary and July.

The fair attracted around 800 com-panies and delegates from 20 coun-tries. The Ministry of Textiles sup-ported the Indian participation. Thisyear, 155 booth spaces were avail-able for display by the 109 compa-nies and 14 booths conducted dailyfashion shows. The available datashows that India's apparel trade withJapan has increased despite globalslowdown on one hand, and withJapan recovering from the devas-tating Tsunami on the other hand.The current bilateral trade betweenIndia and Japan is a little over US$13 billion and it is expected to touchUS$ 25 billion by 2014.

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Textsmile

Two factory workers aretalking.The woman says, "I canmake the boss give me theday off."The man replies, "And howwould you do that?"The woman says, "Just waitand see." She then hangs up-side-down from the ceiling.The boss comes in and says,"What are you doing?"The woman replies, "I'm alight bulb."The boss then says, "You'vebeen working so much thatyou've gone crazy. I thinkyou need to take the dayoff."The man starts to follow herand the boss says, "Whereare you going?"The man says, "I'm goinghome, too. I can't work inthe dark."

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Mr. Anand Sharma, Union Ministerof Commerce, Industry and Textiles,inaugurated the Tex Trends India2012 , featuring over 400 exhibitorsand 2000 global buyers displayingdiverse range of products from theentire length and breadth of thecountry said, "I am happy to informyou that the Tex Trends India 2012truly showcases the strengths of theentire Indian textile industry. It aimsto provide the biggest platform inAsia to the exporters and the buy-ers. The event (Tex Trends) willshowcase India's huge potential asan exporting country and will offera great variety for its global buy-ers."

Dr. A Sakthivel Chairman AEPC,commenting on the Tex Trends re-marked, "We are very hopeful that

Tex Trends 2012 showcased strengths of Indiantextile industry

Tex Trends India 2012 will serve asa much needed platform and anopportunity for a large number ofexhibitors and buyers from acrossthe globe to interact under one roof.The response to the earlier TexTrends was really commendable andthis time too it will definitely pro-vide the much needed fillip to theIndian textile industry." India in re-cent years has been the focal pointof continuous growth and develop-ment being the second fastest grow-ing economy of the world.

Tex Tends 2012 is an initiative bythe Ministry of Textiles, Governmentof India with financial assistanceunder the Market Access Initiative(MAI) of Ministry of Commerce& Industry, Govt. of India. AEPC,the largest Export Promotion Coun-

cil has been entrusted with the taskof lead agency to organise this ex-hibition along with other TextileExport Promotion Councils.

The development activities of theMinistry of Textiles are orientedtowards making adequate quantitiesof raw material available to all sec-tors of the textile industry and aug-menting the production of fabrics atreasonable prices from theorganised and decentralized sectorsof the industry.The Ministry also lays noticeableemphasis on the development andgrowth of handlooms, traditionalhandicrafts and craftsmanship fromacross the region. The event hasexhibitors from across the lengthand breadth of India, including TamilNadu, Mumbai, West Bengal,Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat,Madhya Pradesh and Punjab.

The Punjab industry opposed the 12per cent hike in power tariff saying'huge jump' in power rates wouldlead it to turn "more uncompetitive"against industries in other states likeMadhya Pradesh, HimachalPradesh.

Textile major SEL Manufacturing,Executive Director, V K Goyal said,"The hike in power tariff will cer-tainly put the local textile industryinto a disadvantageous position vis-a-vis other states like MadhyaPradesh as our industry will becomemore uncompetitive now."

According to industry representa-tives, rising input cost caused byincrease in electricity charges andland cost would 'force' the industryto expand in other states where the

Punjab power hike to turn textile industryuncompetitive

cost of production is much lowerthan what costs in Panjab. Poweris about 20 per cent cheaper inMadhya Pradesh compared to inPunjab. Ludhiana based textilegroups like Vardhman, Nahar, Tri-dent, SEL have already expandedtheir industrial capacities in MadhyaPradesh. Punjab State ElectricityRegulatory Commission announcedan average hike of 12.08 per centin power tariff on all categories ofconsumers for 2012-13 and 10 paiseper unit on 16th July 2012 has alsobeen levied for the first time on con-tinuous process industry includingtextile, spinning, casting which willbe applicable from November 1 thisyear. Spinning sector termed theimposition of 10 paise per unit onlyon continuous process industry as a'deplorable' step and said, "the spin-

ning sector was being penalised withthis levy". "There is already a slow-down phase and now increase inpower rates will prove to be doubleblow to the textile industry," T-shirtmaker Duke Group, ChairmanKomal Jain said.

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Two boys were arguing whenthe teacher entered the room.The teacher says, "Why areyou arguing?"One boy answers, "We founda ten dollor bill and decidedto give it to whoever tells thebiggest lie.""You should be ashamed ofyourselves," said the teacher,"When I was your age I didn'teven know what a lie was."The boys gave the ten dollarsto the teacher.

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In its introductory speech Mr. N.D.Mhatre, Dy. Director General(Tech), ITAMMA mentioned thatITAMMA has always taken initia-tive in organizing various activitiesfor its members and as a whole forthe TEI. During this event alsoITAMMA is playing a catalyst roleof inviting two important identitiesfrom two different disciplines ofTextile Industry i.e Mr. T. Rajkumarour Chief Guest and Vice Chair-man, SIMA representing TextileUser Industry. And Mr. R.S.Bachkaniwala, Chairman, IndiaITME Society who will be organiz-ing an International Exhibition ofTextile Machinery and Accessories,India ITME 2012 from 2nd -7thDecember, 2012 at Mumbai.

This Event will prove to be an ex-cellent opportunity for both the dis-ciplines of the Textile Industry toknow the details of the forthcomingMega Exhibition.

In his Welcome Speech Mr.Naresh Mistry, Incoming Presi-dent, ITAMMA,Said, "ITAMMA, being an oldestand largest Association in India rep-resenting Textile Engineering Indus-try, has always taken initiatives forthe benefit of its members andTextile Engineering Industry as awhole, in the field of knowledge en-riching and business growth. Weare happy to mention here thatITAMMA, even though being abody representing Textile Engineer-ing Industry of India; has takenmany initiatives in strengthening thebond between Textile Manufactur-ing Industry and Textile Engineer-ing Industry which is utmost essen-

Trends in Textile Spinning Industry clubbedwith India ITME Road Show on 12th July,2012 at The Residency, Coimbatore.

tial today for developing both theindustries in the areas of Technol-ogy, Knowledge and Business. It isa known fact that, this was theequation which lead the success ofEuropean Textile Engineering Indus-try, and which has resulted in thedevelopment of State-of- the- ArtTextile Machines.

It is our pleasure to have a repre-sentation of Textile ManufacturingIndustry and that too in the form ofour Chief Guest, Shri T. Rajkumar,Dy. Chairman, SIMA. SIMA, es-tablished in 1933, with a presentstrength of 375 textile mills, havingabout 93 lakh spindles (i.e. 24 oftotal spindalage of the country) and5700 looms.

He also said that "India ITME2012" the largest and most presti-gious textile engineering event willbe held in India from 2-7 Decem-ber, 2012; which will give an oppor-tunity to both the disciplines of theTextile Industries in enriching theirknowledge & growing their busi-ness.

We are fortunate to have with usMr R S Bachkaniwala, ChairmanIndia ITME Society, to high lightenus about the India ITME'2012 Ex-hibition.

Mr. R. S. Bachkaniwala - DeliveringSpecial Address

In the speech of Mr. R. S.Bachkaniwala, he mentioned follow-ing aspects

This year, India ITME will see 700participants from 45 countries outof which 6 new countries (Pakistan,Thailand, Slovakia, Netherland, In-donesia, Malaysia) participation re-ceived for India ITME 2012 cov-ering over 65,000 sqm. of exhibitionarea, and 100,000 visitors making itthe largest and most prestigiousTextile Engineering Exhibition inIndia and one of the renownedexhibitions in the world showcasingTextile Technology. INDIA ITME2012 will be the one stop shop fortrendsetting textile manufacturingsolutions. New sectors like garmentmaking machinery, garment pro-cessing machinery, auxiliary machin-ery & accessories, as well as dye-stuff & chemical products for thetextile industry will also be in thespotlight.

Keeping each participants interestin mind and to provide maximumvalue for time and money spent tovisit ITME event, we have orga-nized an array of programs duringITME 2012.

� Complimentary pre- fixed busi-ness meetings

� Technical Seminars� Gujarat Focus day� Product launches� Special branding and promotion

opportunity� Cultural display and evening

programs� Event Newsletter by WTIN

(UK)

Being held right at the heart ofworld's 2nd largest textile industry,it is an event nobody can miss. Theevent is focused to meet the busi-ness requirements of:

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� Textile machinery, accessoriesand component Manufacturers

� Distributors/Dealers� Exporters / Importers� Buyers/Sellers/Retailers

State Government Bodies� Textile Engineers� Fashion & Textile Designers� Research organizations & stu-

dents� Publications� Consultants Textile parts and

SEZ

For the 9th India International Tex-tile Machinery Exhibition spacebooking closed one year aheadwhich shows the excitement andinterest with which the event islooked at. Presently we have 420companies in wait list with addi-tional spaced for 11,000 sqm.

INDIA ITME 2012 is a premiumcapital goods export facilitate eventwith Engineering Export PromotionCouncil (EEPC- Ministry of Com-merce & Industry), Basic Chemi-cals, Pharmaceuticals & CosmeticsExport Promotion Council(CHEMEXCIL-Ministry of Com-merce & Industry), Taiwan Asso-ciation of Machinery Industry(TAMI) and European Union IndiaChambers supporting this event.The State Partner is the Govern-ment of Gujarat, The KnowledgePartners are Bombay Textile Re-search Association (BTRA), TheSynthetic & Art Silk Mill's ResearchAssociation (SASMIRA), The Cen-tral Institute for Research on Cot-ton Technology(CIRCOT), TextileInstitute - Manchester, UK, SardarVallabhbhai Patel InternationalSchool of Textiles & Management(SVPITM), Institute of ChemicalTechnology(UDCT) and D.K.T.E.Society's Textile & Engineering In-stitute, For this upcoming ITME wehave closed space booking one year

ahead which shows the excitementand interest with which the event islooked at.

Dr. Christian Schlinder, DirectorGeneral, ITMF, Zurich, Mr.Andreas Weber, from Swisstex/World President, The Textile Insti-tute, Manchester, UK, Prof. Dr.Roshan Shishoo, Sweden have con-firmed their presence during theITME technology seminar as es-teemed speakers.

Visitor Registration:Special incentives are offered forearly bird registration & complimen-tary business meetings are alsobeing organized. To avail early birddiscount (25%) please register onlineat www.india-itme.com before 31stAugust 2012.

ITME Society is actively promotingnationally & Internationaly to attractlagre no. of visitors through adver-tisement & road shows ITME2012, We already done promotionsin Barcelona, Spain - September2011, Bangladesh - 10th February,Bhilwara - 6th April, Indonesia -19th April, Bhopal - 28th April,Indore - 12th May, Ichalkaranji -19th May, Salem - 16th June. Apartfrom this we also have promotionin Vidharbha - 28th July, Ludhiana- 25th August 2012.

ITME Pavilion at Vibrant Gujarat2013 For the first time India ITMESociety is participating in VI-BRANT GUJARAT 2013 withITME pavilion. This is open for alltextile and textile engineering cat-egories. The registration form isavailable on ITME websitehomepage and bookings are openfor the same.

In the Speech of Chief Guest, Mr.T. Rajkumar he gave detailed infor-

mation on:

Mr. Naresh Mistry, IncomingPresident,ITAMMA, offering memento to Mr.T. Rajkumar, Vice -Chairman, SIMA)

Trends in Textiles:

� Today India has become themost efficient and cost competi-tive in the global cotton yarntrade business. However, thecountry is saddled with poortechnology levels in weavingand processing sectors due towhich our global share is lessthan 5%. Though the countryattracted over Rs. 2.10 lakhcrore of Investment in the mod-ernization and expansion andGreenfield projects during thelast 21 years, the country is yetto go a long way to bridge thetechnological gap in weavingand processing sectors.Smallscale of operation is yet anotherbottleneck for the country pre-venting supply to the large re-tailers. The antiquated labourpolicies and various benefitsgiven for SSI sector in terms offiscal levies and other benefitsmade the Indian textile industryhighly fragmented. This hasresulted in lower productivity,high cost and poor systems,obsolete technology, etc.

� We need to encourage consoli-dation and the scale of opera-tion to remain cost competitiveand also grab the opportunitiesof large retailers.

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� Government also should take decare while signing various tradeagreements and implement theGST, reduce cost of transac-tion to become competitive.

� As far as the processing isconcerned, the treatment oftextile effluents in a cost effec-tive manner and meeting thepollution norms have becomemajor issues. Marine dischargeis the technology being prac-ticed across the globe. ZeroLiquid Discharge (ZLD) is notpracticed anywhere in the worldcommercially. Probably, somecountries and some States mightallow pollution unnoticed as itwas in practice during the lastcople of decades even inTamilnadu. Our country has toearmark few thousands ofacres of land along the sea shorewith necessary provision ofdesalination plants to overcomethe water shortage and pollu-tion issues.

� The 12th Five year Paln workgroup has set an ambitious tar-get of attracting Rs. 1.45 lakhcrores investments in the tex-tile industry. CITI and SIMAhave already indicated to thegovernment to give more ben-efits for the weaving and pro-cessing sectors, which are theweakest links to enhance thevalue addition. We have alsomade concerted efforts to ex-tend the TechnologyUpgradation Fund Schemethroughout 12th Five year Planperiod. Though Government hasalready announced extension ofthe scheme without any breakup to 31st March 2013, the gov-ernment is yet to announce thenew Scheme for the remainingfour years.

� Though the Scheme has beenin vogue without any break rightfrom 1st April, 1999 the Schemewas suspended during the pe-riod 29.6.201 to 27.4.2011. Thishas seriously affected theprojects worth Rs. 23,000crores. Though the Governmenthas denied giving benefit for theblock out period, SIMA is mak-ing all its efforts to get thebenefit for the black out period.

� Today the trend is making in-vestments in processing, weav-ing and technical textiles. Weneed to concentrate on valueaddition rather than making in-vestments in spinning. If youlook at the types of companiesor projects, vertically integratedunits are being able to overcomeall the challenges and sustain areasonable profit. This is themain reason why more than 200leading companies in the coun-try are growing at a faster rate

.� The high volatility in cotton and

yarn prices mainly caused dueto short sighted policies of theCentral Government on cottonand yarn exports. The industry,particularly SME's incurredhuge cash losses and erosionof working capital during theyear 2010-11. SIMA made con-certed efforts for almost oneyear to get the debt restructur-ing package consisting of Rs.35,000 crores with the facilityof two year moratorium, con-version of eroded working capi-tal into working capital term loanand relaxation of NPA normsby RBI. Though the RBI hasdenied our plea, the FinanceMinistry has already sent com-munications to the bankers forreconstructing facility and theMinistries have convenced ameeting tomorrow (July 13,

2012 ) at 2.30 pm. We are hope-ful of getting some fruitful re-sults.

� Today the industry has startedreviving and what we need issome breathing time for repay-ment of loans and adequateworking capital. In my opinion,the Indian textile industry hasbright future owing to increas-ing cost of production in Chinaand other countries.

� I request the manufacturers andsuppliers of textiles spares andaccessories and machinerymanufacturers to be innovativeand cost effective to sustain ourcompetitiveness in the globalizedeconomy. I am sure you R &D and innovative kills wouldgreatly benefit the mother in-dustry to be the clothier of theworld.

Finally Mr. Senthil Kumar, HonTreasurer, ITAMMA delivered aVote of thanks:

Mr. Senthil Kumar- Delivering Voteof Thanks

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On a crowded bus, oneman noticed that anotherman had his eyes closed."What's the matter? Areyou sick?""No, I'm okay. It's just thatI hate to see an old ladystanding."

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Raymond Limited, India's leadingtextile and apparel manufacturer &retailer, announced the launch of itsnew economy brand - MAKERS -in Rajasthan. With this launch,MAKERS aims to replicate thesuccess of Northern and Easternmarkets here. It will be covering2300 retail outlets spread across 216towns in 33 districts by the fiscalend. The brand also announced thelaunch of India's first insurancescheme for retailers in the State.This Group Personal Accident Policyprovides annual insurance cover ofup to Rs 10 lakhs for MAKERSretailers and their two salesmen arealso covered under this schemeRaymond has always cared for itsretail partners and this is a smallgesture of acknowledging their con-tribution in the making of MAK-

New economy brand MAKERS fromRaymond in Rajasthan

ERS brand in market.Mr. Ram Bhatnagar, Vice President- Emerging Businesses of RaymondLimited said, "Raymond is renownedin India and globally for its pioneer-ing strengths in the manufacturingand retailing of worsted textiles. Thelaunch of MAKERS in Easternmarkets a year ago marked thetextile giant's foray into theeconomy segment and in retailingpoly viscose fabrics. After success-ful East and North India launches,we are pleased to enter theRajasthan markets. MAKERS withyouth centric product designs andquality assurance which is the hall-mark of Raymond has resulted inthe brand receiving an overwhelm-ing response in Eastern and North-ern markets. We foresee significantscope of growth for the brand in

popular price segment across thenation and especially Rajasthangiven the style-consciousness andincreasing aspirations of the Indianyouth. People here are energetic,enthusiastic and colourful whichreflects in their day-to-day dressingfashion. MAKERS aims to addressthe needs of this populace with itswide range of fabric colours, match-ing options and appropriate pricing.Rajasthan has been a stronghold forRaymond and we believe that willbe the same for MAKERS as well."

Keeping in mind the preferences ofthe youth today, the MAKERSrange has youth-centric vibrant de-signs, fancy colours and specialemphasis on innovative finishes. Thecollection comprises a carefullyselected design pallet ranging fromstripes to self, micro structures andchecks.

Jindal Group will set up a Rs 1,500-crore technical textile unit in Nashikdistrict of North Maharashtra. Tex-tile Minister Mohammed ArifNaseem Khan told PTI that a letterof intent (LoI) has been issued inthis regard after the Group officialsmet him last week.The Group is currently in the pro-cess of acquiring land. About 100acres will be required for the unit

Jindal Group to set up Rs. 1500 crore textileunit in Nashik

which will manufacture cloth relatedto automobile applications, sports,security, medical and fire fightingequipment, he said. Technical tex-tile products are used primarily fortheir technical performance andfunctional properties rather than theiraesthetic or decorative characteris-tics.Investment proposals worth aroundRs 5,000 crore had been received

ever since the Government an-nounced a new textile policy acouple of months ago, the Ministersaid. The policy, which focuses oncotton growing belts of Vidarbha,Marathwada and northMaharashtra, provides for incentiveslike 10 per cent capital subsidy.Khan said 162 projects are beingcovered under the new textilepolicy. He said road shows arebeing planned in Gujarat, Karnatakaand Tamil Nadu to attract investorsin the key sector.

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Singapore - DyStar and its owner,the Zhejiang Longsheng Group,celebrate 115 years of technicalIndigo synthesis at Ludwigshafen,Germany, where the first commer-cially feasible manufacturing pro-cess was launched.

The history of synthetic Indigo goesall the way back to 1897, with theintroduction of, "pure indigo" fromBASF. Demand for synthetic Indigodyes was so huge that by 1913,natural indigo had been almostentirely replaced. To date, more than260,000 tons of the dye has beenproduced at the Ludwigshafen pro-duction plant. This is sufficient todye about 26 billion pairs of jeanswhich, if lined up end-to-end, wouldcover the distance from the earth

DyStar celebrates 115 years of technical Indigosynthesis with expansion of its Indigo prodn

capacity in Nanjingto the moon 87 times, informed apress communiqué received fromthe company. With its patentedDyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution,DyStar has contributed to the con-tinuing success story of syntheticIndigo. "Pre-Reduced Indigo is avery consistent and clean type dye"notes Dean Barley, Denim Dye De-partment Manager from MountVernon Mills. "Having a consistentlyclean Indigo helps us produce morefirst quality denim day in and dayout. More first quality goods alsogenerate more money to the bot-tom line." The constant improvementof the manufacturing process overthe years has paved the way forDyStar's current success. The num-bers speak for themselves withdouble digit growth rates in the

major denim manufacturing arease.g. 40% growth in South Asia. "Inanticipation of greater demand forDyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution andan increased market share, theDyStar Group is planning to expandcapacity at its Nanjing Indigo plantin China," said Harry Dobrowolski,CEO of the DyStar Group. Theexpansion reaffirms DyStar 's com-mitment to the denim industry.

As global awareness of environ-mental issues created by the textilesupply chain increases, Brands,Retailers and their industry partnersare looking for more sustainablesolutions for their businesses. Withthe recently announced project todevelop electrochemical dyeing ofIndigo in collaboration with RedElec,DyStar is maintaining its position asthe leading sustainable solution pro-vider.

The MoU which was signed byUnion Minister of Commerce, In-dustry and Textiles Mr. AnandSharma and Mr. Arvin Bollel,Mauritian Minister of Foreign Af-fairs, Regional Integration and In-ternational Trade, is aimed at en-hancing the trade and economicrelations by expanding business andcooperation in the sphere of tex-tiles, clothing and fashion industries,exchange of information and docu-ments, transfer of technology andsharing and adopting best practicesin production, productivity and qual-ity improvement, fashion and design,product development and executivedevelopment programmes betweenthe two countries.

During the meeting it was informed

India and Mauritius to expand trade tiesin textile sector

that the first meeting of the JointCommittee on Cooperation aboutthe textile and clothing industry toIndia will be held from July 23, 2012here. After signing the MoU, theMinisters also agreed to hasten thePreferential Trade Agreement(PTA) negotiations. They alsoagreed to deepen economic engage-ment between the two countries.

Mr. Sharma said that "the bilateraleconomic and commercial ties haveshown a healthy upward trajectory,but there is still a lot of untappedpotential in diversifying our commer-cial exchanges." The bilateral tradebetween India and Mauritius in 2011was US$ 1.395 billion as comparedto US$ 0.687 billion in 2010. Whilethe exports in 2010 were US$ 0.671

billion which increased to US$ 1.361billion in 2011, the imports of US$0.015 billion in 2010 hasincreased to US$ 0.034 billion in2011. During January-May 2012,exports have been US$ 0.517 bil-lion, while imports have been US$0.012 billion.

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On a crowded bus, oneman noticed that anotherman had his eyes closed."What's the matter? Areyou sick?""No, I'm okay. It's just thatI hate to see an old ladystanding."

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The Dow Chemical Company,through its wholly owned subsidiaryDow Europe Holding BV, and AksaAkrilik Kimya Sanayii A.S., aworldleading acrylic fiber company,announced the official formation ofDowAksa Advanced CompositesHoldings BV (DowAksa), a jointventure (JV) to manufacture andcommercialize carbon fiber andderivatives. Aksa and Dow had pre-viously signed a definitive agree-ment to form the JV on December20, 2011.

Dow & Aksa form JV for carbon fiberDowAksa will develop and globallymarket a broad range of productsand technical servicesupport in the rapidly expandingcarbon-fiber composites industry.The JV will have a particular focuson bringing solutions to market thatreduce overall costs, thereby en-hancing economics and drivingadoption in a broader array of mar-kets.

Emphasis will be on bringing cost-

effective solutions to industrial mar-ket applications forenergy, transportation, and infra-structure globally. Very strong andlightweight, carbon-fiber based ma-terials are used in a variety of ap-plications in growth industries, whereweight savings, emissions reduction,durability, and energy efficiency arekey performance factors. Currently,the carbon fiber composites indus-try is estimated at USD $10 billionglobally and is expected to reachUSD $40 billion by 2022.

NEWS

With some 30 000 RSB/SB drawframes sold, Rieter is theworld's leading draw framemanufacturer. Our draw frameinnovations create competitiveadvantages for our customers.Rieter's all-round draw frameportfolio offers the right drawframe for every need with re-gard to quality, productivity,operator convenience and avail-able space. An overview of alldraw frame models is givenhere.

All Rieter autoleveler draw framesincorporate highly dynamic RSBautoleveling technology. This en-sures the highest quality standardsin the yarn and the end product aswell as outstanding running proper-ties in downstream productionstages. All Rieter draw frames fea-ture virtually identical technologycomponents, such as top rollers orcoilers, so that spare parts can beutilized flexibly.

RSB-D 45 and SB-D 45 - theline for maximum flexibility

The SB-D 45 without leveling, to-

gether with the RSB D 45, providesfor highly flexible lines with maxi-mum efficiency up to 1100 m/min.These two models are largely iden-tical in design - which facilitatesoperation and maintenance. A uniquefeature is the CLEANtube devicefor clean sliver coiling, which isespecially advantageous when pro-cessing soiled cotton.

RSB-D 22 and SB-D 11 - theline for limited spaces

Two SB-D 11 and one RSB-D 22are perfect partners where maxi-mum output of up to 1100 m/min inconjunction with minimum availablespace and low capital investment iscalled for. The RSB-D 22 ensuresmaximum quality, flexibility and pro-ductivity with independent machinesides and autoleveling systems.

RSB-D 45c and RSB-D 22c - thealternatives in the Rieter comb-ing lineThe RSB-D 45c and RSB-D 22cautoleveler draw frames are spe-cifically designed for use after thecombing process. Maximum deliv-ery speed is 550m/min.

RSB-D 35 CUBI can - for largecapacities and low operator ef-fortThe RSB-D 35 CUBIcanautoleveler draw frame fills rectan-gular cans at up to 1000 m/min.CUBIcans hold up to 65% moresliver material than round cans, of-fering corresponding advantages inoperation, quality and efficiency onthe spinning machine.

SB 20 - the double-head drawframe for large can formatsWith output of up to 1000 m/min,the SB 20 double-head draw framewithout leveling is the ideal prelimi-nary stage of combing preparationbefore the UNllap or OMEGAlap.The machine also offers large de-livery can formats of up to 600 mmwith can changer and 1000 mmwithout can changer.

The right draw frame to meet every need

Texttreasure

The first step in the acquisi-tion of wisdom is silence, thesecond listening, the thirdmemory, the fourth practice,the fifth teaching others.

-Solomon Ibn Gabriol

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The all-round draw frame portfolio systematically caters to all customer needs.

NEWS

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Oerlikon Group has better results inview to sales and EBIT butOerlikon Textiles reports less orderintake, order backlog and higherturnover and EBIT for the first halfof the ongoing year as against lastyear's comparable period.

Group order intake fell from CHF2149 to CHF 1952 million or 10 %less, order backlog dropped fromCHF 1605 to CHF 1319 million or18 % less, but turnover increasedby 3 % or from CHF 1900 to CHF1951 million. EBIT rose from CHF109 million to CHF 267 million or34 % more and EBIT, excludingnon-recurring items, increased by 15% or from CHF 207 to CHF 228million.

Oerlikon Textile reports a 16 %lower order intake from CHF 1195to CHF 1000 million and order back-log decreased by 24 % or from CHF1399 million to CHF 1012 million,however sales increased by 4 % orFrom CHF 978 to CHF 1015 mil-lion and EBIT by 89 % or fromCHF 76 to CHF 144 million andEBIT, excluding non-recurring items,rose 38 % or from CHF 76 to CHF105 million. The EBIT margin there-fore increased from 7.8 % to 10.4%. The order intake in the secondquarter of 2012 decreased by 13 %or From CHF 569 to CHF 496 mil-lion whereas sales remained withCHF 520 million at the level of thesame quarter of 2011. EBIT rose45 % in the second quarter or fromCHF 38 to CHF 55 million and EBITmargin rose from 7.3 % to 10.5 %.Oerlikon Textile notes a weakercontribution from the natural fibresbusinesses whereas demand fromthe manmade fibre areas remainedstrong and reports the highest order

intake for five consecutive quartersand filled order books until 2014.This segment represents now thelargest sub segment for OerlikonTextile.

Trade quarrels between India andChina According to a report of theWall Street Journal and othersources, India is frustrated that tradebetween India and China is tendingto the benefit of China because thetrade deficit with China jumped inthe last fiscal year (end of March)to nearly USD 40 billion being thelargest contributor to the country'soverall gap between exports andimports and puts the subject on topof the agenda when meeting withChinese officials during August

India's government is convinced thatthis development is a serious eco-nomic threat for the country. Thenation's current account deficit (bal-ance of trade with the world)amounted to 4.5 % of GDP GrossDomestic Product in the last fiscalyear and was an all time high, lead-ing in consequence to a sharp de-preciation of the INR and is puttingenormous pressure on India to at-tract foreign capital.

India wants for its value added prod-ucts more access to the Chinesemarket and wants China to increasegovernment procurement in sectorssuch as pharmaceuticals. India sub-mitted to China a list of 916 goodsthat it believes China should pur-chase in larger quantities. In fact,India's drug and fi8ne chemicalexports to China have fallen 12 %since 2007 to a total of USD 108million, whereas sales to Americanhave more than doubled during thesame period to close to USD 2 bil-

lion. India's pharmaceutical compa-nies are the leading suppliers of low-cost generic drugs to treat every-thing from high cholesterol to stom-ach infections and those productshave great success in the U.S.,Great Britain, Germany and otherWestern markets and helped toboost India's exports of drugs andfine chemicals from USD 3.3 bil-lion in 2004 to USD 10.4 billion2011.

India is flooded with Chinese goodsfrom heavy industrial equipment tolaptops and cosmetic. In a bit morethan a decade China moved fromrank seven to rank one as sourceof Indian imports, overtaking theU.S.A., Germany and Japan. Indiawants to curb this influx of goodsand has put at the end of July a 21% tariff on imports for big powerprojects in order to protect localmanufacturers from Chinese com-petitors. But the reverse side of themedal: India needs advanced Chi-nese power technologies to put"steam" into the biggest power plantprojects. China supplies over 40 %of India's power gear. The flood ofChinese goods into India is on dis-play in the narrow congested alleysof Sadar Bazaar in the old sectionof Delhi (built by the Mughals). Tinyshops in shabby building sell toys,hardware, costume jewellery, cos-metics, home appliances and ho-siery. Five years ago, Chinese goodsamounted only to 5 % of their in-ventory, but now they account formore than 50 % and instead ofsourcing in India, traders go fre-quently on purchase tours to China.Some of them have wholesale andretail operations and are spendingsome 15 days per month living inChina to source all kinds of goods.

Oerlikon Textile reports less order intake and higher sales figures

NEWS

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Some India officials accuse Chinato effectively block Indian exportsby not giving certain Indian prod-ucts market access, outside expertsdon't think that China is barringIndian products but see the reasonin India's inability to produce qualitymanufactured goods. China exportsa wide variety of sophisticated prod-ucts with higher profit margins andcreating more domestic jobs. Thevalue of China's telecom exportsamounted to USD 6.7 billion in thelast fiscal year. India's lion share ofexports to China is raw material(mostly cooper and iron ore).Countries like the U.S.A., Brazil andRussia also run large trade deficitswith China. India's concerns how-ever are sensitive, given the factthat China and India areneighbouring rivals with clashing

strategic interests. India is worriedabout China's influence over IndianOcean shipping lanes and China iswary of India's oil-exploration in theSouth China Sea.

DyStar refinances an original creditAt the time of the acquisition ofDyStar in 2010 the major financingsource was a credit facility with theState Bank of India (SBI)

On August 3, 2012 DyStar GlobalHoldings (Singapore) Pte Ltd reportsthat it refinanced such SBI creditfacility and is reducing borrowingcost and allowing at the same timeto improve cash flow and to accel-erate the strategic, long-term growthplans of the company. The refinanc-ing allows further the release ofworldwide assets that were pledged

NEWS

for the SBI credit facility.

DyStar was originally acquired inDecember 2010 by the Indian KiriDyes and Chemicals Group (todayKiri Industries) and belongs now tothe Zhejiang Longsheng Group(PRC), the later explains also whythe refinancing has taken place bynecessity.

The transaction was commented byHarry Dobrowolski, CEO of DyStar:"This transaction was one of manystrategic steps in the process ofestablishing DyStar as a long-termsupplier of textiles dyes, chemicalsand services to the global textilemarket and he feels comforting tohave this financial flexibility world-wide especially whilst many globaleconomies are facing difficulties".

All India Textile Conference A-8 Paramount Instruments Pvt. Ltd. Cover-II

A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. A-11 Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. A-18

Air Maaster Industrial Technolozis A-3 Premier Colorscan Instruments Pvt. Ltd. A-13

Aspire Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. A-4 Reliance Industries Ltd. Cover-I

CITI Publications A-14 Rieter India Ltd A-7

ICTA 2012 Conference A-16 SSP Pvt. Ltd. A-17

India ITME 2012 A-6 TCL 2012 International Conference A-12

ITEMA Weaving (India) Pvt. Ltd. A-9 Unitech Techmech Cover-IV

Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. Cover-III VASTRA, International Conference A-10

Lenzing AG - India Branch A-1 Veejay Lakshmi Engg. Works Ltd. A-5

Oerlikon Neumag A-15 World Traders Mfg. Pvt. Ltd. A-2

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10th International & 68th All India Textile ConferenceThe Textile Association (India)

Jointly Organised by Mumbai Unit & Central OfficeTheme : World Textile - Challenges towards Excellence

Day & Date : Friday & Saturday, 30th November & 1st December 2012Venue : Hotel ITC Maratha, Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 099……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….TAI, Mumbai Unit and TAI, Central Office will jointly hold 2012 All India Textile Conference in Mumbai on November 30 &December 1, 2012 (i.e. Friday & Saturday). This Conference will provide a Double Treat to the Textile Professionals as it will coincidewith the India-ITME Exhibition which will be held from 2nd to 7th December 2012. This will be wonderful opportunity to thosewho intends to visit India ITME Exhibition to listen to global experts as well senior textile magnets including beaurocrates, who willbe specially visiting for attending India-ITME Exhibition. The Conference will cover topics and panel discussions which hithertonot covered so far. So book your dates for double treat Textile Conference & India ITME. We are expecting over 500 participantsto attend this conference.This Conference will be discussing the topics which are influencing & affecting as well as posing challenges to the textile industry.Some of the topics are:

� Textile Business Potentials of BRIC regions and possibilities of trading in local currencies� Textile Business in Asian Countries� Business opportunities n Burma and Africa - Emerging new low cost production centres��Financials - Banks & institutional support for textile projects�� Surviving in currency fluctuation situations� Supply chain management & logistics� Consumer expectations & rising demands� Environmental issues & overcoming these regulations�� State and Central Government Policies & their strategic plans to support to the textile industry� Initiative Fibre - Natural & man-made, including Organic Cotton� Innovation in textile machinery�� Innovations in chemicals & dyes to beat the challenges�� Textile Operation / Process with unconventional energy sources�� Development potential in non apparel sectorThe international conference provides an excellent opportunity for companies to gain global visibility and publicity by promotingtheir products and services to a highly focused audience besides networking with the participants from various parts of the world.Your participation in this conference by way of sponsorships, advertisements and delegates would provide a common platform tomeet the experts from the industry. The main advantage will be an opportunity to exchange views on the latest developments inthe textile industry.We appreciate your support to The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit in its activities and it is our pleasure to invite youto be part of this event. Let us join hands to make this conference a great success.

D. R. Mehta C. Bose V. C. Gupte Arvind SinhaNational President, TAI President, TAI, Mumbai Unit Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit Conference Advisor

ADVERTISEMENT TARIFF: DELEGATE REGISTRATION FEES:1st Cover (Front Cover) : Rs. 50,000 /- Patron Members : Rs. 1000 /-2nd Cover (Front Inside) : Rs. 40,000 /- Life Members : Rs. 1200 /-3rd Cover (Back Inside) : Rs. 40,000 /- Non Members : Rs. 2500 /-4th Cover (Back Cover) : Rs. 40,000 /- Students : Rs. 500 /-Book Mark / Page Finder : Rs. 25,000 /- Spot Registration : Rs. 3000 /-Donors Page : Rs. 30,000 /- Overseas Delegates : USD 100Full Page (4 Colour) : Rs. 15,000 /-Double Spread (4 Colour) : Rs. 25,000 /-Full Page (Black & White) : Rs. 8,000 /-

For further details please contact:Hon. Secretary

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai UnitAmar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 3rd Floor, 86 College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Near Portuguese Church / Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028

Tel: 022- 2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax: 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected] / [email protected]: www.textileassociationindia.com

orThe Textile Association (India), Central Office

Tel.: 022-2446 1145 Fax: 91-22-2447 4971 E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected] Website: www.textileassociationindia.org

CONFERENCE

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INDIA

Tex Summit 2012Date : 5 Dec. 2012Venue : Bombay Exhibition CentreOrganizer : Institute of Chemical Technology (For-

merly UDCT)Contact : Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli

N.P. Marg, Matunga (E), Mumbai-19Tel. : +(91)-(22)-33612811Fax : +(91)-(22)-33611020Email : [email protected] ITME 2012 - 9th India InternatioalTextile machinery ExhibitionDate : 2-7 December 2012Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre,

MumbaiContact : India ITME, Society Route Map 76 Mittal

Tower, 'B' Wing 7th Floor, 210 NarimanPoint, Mumbai - 400 021.

Tel. : +91-22-2202 0032 / 2282 8132 / 2285 1579Fax : +91-22- 2285 1578E-mail : [email protected] 2012, International Textile & Apparel FairDate : 22nd to 25th November 2012Venue: EPIP, Sitapura, Jaipur, IndiaContact : Mr. Amit Gupta, Senior Assistant Director

Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerceand Industry (FICCI), Rajasthan State Coun-cil 202, Rajputana Tower, 2nd Floor, HouseNo. A-27-B, Shanti Path, Tilak Nagar, Jaipur- 302 004, Rajasthan, India

Tel. : +91-141 2621345, 5103768, 4061345,Fax : +91-141 5116464E-mail : [email protected], [email protected] : www.ficci.com, www.vastratex.com

ABROAD

51st Dornbirn Man - Made Fiber CongressDate : September 19 - 21, 2012Venue : The Kulturhaus Dornbirn Congress Centre,

Dornbirn, Austria

Austrian Man Made Fibers Institute(Austrian - MFI)Osterreichisches Chemief Aser Institut

Contact : Congress Office :Romerstrasse 2, A-6900 Bregenz, Austria

Tel. : +43 (0)5574 54720Fax : +43 (0)5574 43443 4

28th IAF World Apparel Convention 2012Date : September 24 - 28, 2012Venue : Sheraton Parto Hotel & Spa, (Oporto),

PortugalContact : Marier Solle

Romerstrasse 2, A-6900 Bregenz, AustriaTel. : +31 30 232 09 01Fax : +31 30 232 09 99E-mail : [email protected]

6th Aachen Dresden Internationl Textile Confer-ence 2012Aachen Dresden is an international textil confer-ence specially for the experts in the field of Tex-tile Chemistry, Finishing & Functionalization.Date : November 29 -30, 2012Venue : GermanyContact : Ms Annett Dorfel

Institue of Textile Machinery and High Per-formance Material Technology at TUDresden, Germay

Tel. : +49 (0)351 463 39321E-mail : [email protected]

www.aachen-dresden-itc.de

IGATEX 2012Largest Textile & Garment Machinery ExhibitionDate : 3rd to 6th October 2012Venue : Expo Centre, Lahore, PakistanContact : Project Manager FAKT Exhibitors (Pvt)

Ltd., 304, 3rd Floor, Clitton Centre, Block-5Clitton, Karachi, Pakistan

Tel. : +92-21 35810637, Fax: +92-21 35810636E-mail : [email protected] : www.igatex.pk

• Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing yourtravel plans.

• All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form or byany means, nor may it be printed, photocopied or stored on microfilm without the written permissionof the editor-publisher.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

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