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PREFACE

National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute underMinistry of

Texti les, Govt. of India and is responsible for human resource development for

apparel industry in India. Department of fashion Technology is imparting

education in crucial areas of technology application in garment manufacturing.

The industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with

industry application for the students. This internship helps industry to analyse day-

to-day activities with the help of internees who in turn will learn practical application

of different principles and will be able to draw inferences.

This report attempts to present our experiences as an internee in the Paragon

Apparel Pvt. Ltd. I basically worked with the IE and Merchandizing Department

but it involved interaction with the other departments as well.

The aim of this internship program was to gain practical knowledge in our area of

specialization i.e. production. It gave us an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed

organization and get the first-hand knowledge of working under various department

of the entire exports house. It gave us a feel of work culture and the actual

environment of working of export-oriented unit. Through this program I also got to

apply theoretical knowledge into practice.

Internship was a great learning experience for me. It helped to practically see what

was available in the books and learn many new practical aspects of the industrywhich can't be learnt through books. At the end internship provides a gateway for the

industry.

The final chapter of this report discusses in detail about the projects done by me.

The projects helped us to know more about the working and functionality of various

departments in detail.


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CERTIFICATE

ThisistocertifythatSandeepMittalofMFTIII,NationalInstituteOfFashionTechnology, New Delhi did their internships at Paragon Apparels Pvt. Ltd.,Noida, NCR from May 27, 2013 to August 18, 2013 towards the partialfulfilmentoftheprogramM.F.Tech(Operations).

This project report has been created and compiled by them under theguidanceofDr.PrabirJanaandistheirauthenticwork.

SandeepMittal

Dr.PrabirJanaMentor


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Through this project report I would like to thank numerous people whose consistent

support and guidance has been the standing pillar in architecture of this project. To

begin with, our sincere thanks to the management ofNIFT for giving this opportunity

to experience and learn the processes practiced in Apparel Industry.

For the completion of this document we would like to thank Dr. Prabir Jana for being

our mentor and our guide throughout the project.

We would like to express our sincere thanks to the Management and staff of

Paragon Apparel Pvt. Ltd. for their outstanding Support and cooperation in my

efforts to gain knowledge about the practical aspects of Apparel industries during the

Internship.

I am thankful to

Mr. Gareesh Taneja (Sr. Merchant) My Project Mentor,

Mr. Vikram Kumar (Manager I.E.) My Project Guide

Mr. Pramod Kumar (Manager C.I.)

for their support, guidance and carrying out my internship well throughout the

internship period.

We would like to grab this opportunity to express our sincere gratitude to all thedepartment heads for guiding us through all the processes involved in their

respective departments and were patient enough to answer all our doubts and

queries.

We would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping us

throughout the internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to

successfully complete the training.


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NationalInstituteOfFashionTechnology,NewDelhi 1

M.F.Tech.Apparelinternship2013|ParagonApparelsPvt.Ltd.

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION.............................................................................................................................3

i. Company-profile..................................................................................................................3

ii. Mission and vision................................................................................................................4

iii. Capacity Summary..........................................................................................................5

iv. Products............................................................................................................................5

v. Buyers...................................................................................................................................6

vi. Social Compliance............................................................................................................7

Employee Benefits.....................................................................................................................7

vii. Statutory Benefits............................................................................................................7

ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY......................................................................................9

UNDERSTAND THE APPAREL BUSINESS PROCESS.............................................................12

i. Description of the Buyer Side of the Apparel Supply Chain.........................................13

ii. Description of the Supplier Side of the Apparel Supply Chain.....................................15

iii. Description of the Manufacturer Side of the Apparel Supply Chain........................15

DEPARTMENT OVERVIEW........................................................................................................17

i.

Paragon Apparel : Process Flow Chart...........................................................................

18

ii. Paragon Apparel : Departments Functions and Operations.........................................19

Cutting Department..................................................................................................................20

Stitching Department...............................................................................................................22

Finishing and Packaging Department......................................................................................23

Printing Department.................................................................................................................24

Production Planning and Control (PPC) Department..............................................................25

Merchandising Department

......................................................................................................

26

Sampling Department..............................................................................................................29

Finishing Department..............................................................................................................33

Projects Done at PAPL....................................................................................................................36

IMPROVISATION OF LINE EFFICIENCY BY REDUCING PRODUCTION FLOOR DOWN

TIME................................................................................................................................................37

Introduction.................................................................................................................................37

What is Down Time?...............................................................................................................37

VariousNon

Productive

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line

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............

38


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Steps involved in project...........................................................................................................39

FactorsresponsibleforProductionDowntime..........................................................................42

Data Collection...........................................................................................................................44

Solutions......................................................................................................................................47

Restudydonetotrackimprovement.........................................................................................49

Conclusion..................................................................................................................................51

References........................................................................................................................................51


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INTRODUCTION

i. Company-profileParagon Apparel is a part ofArihant Group of Companies. The group has a Turnover of

USD 55.25 Millions with a wide stretch in fields like Automotive Parts / Edible Oil Extraction /

Garment Exports / Confectionary. Paragon Apparel is promoted by Mr. Roshan Baid & Mr.

Sidharth Baid. Both promoters hold degrees in garment manufacturing and merchandising

from National Institute of Fashion Technology, Indias premier institute of fashion

technology.Paragon Apparel Pvt. Ltd. stands steeped in time. The company started its

operations way back in 2000 in Noida. But its ideas and views are what make it young.

Paragon extended its unit to 2 other blocks in 2002. Established in Noida, PARAGON

stands vertically integrated as one of the largest manufacturers and exporters in India

offering ready - to - wear garments for ladies, men and children.

A claim only some distinguished few can make in the hugely competitive arena of

garment exports. Besides the dynamic and professional leadership of the promoters,

Paragon is mainly recognized for its excellence in quality, product range, service and

reliability.

They have traversed beyond just manufacturing of garments. Paragon Apparels products

are now considered as industry benchmarks pertaining to designs and quality. With a

young and aggressive management at the helm, commitment to quality, respects for time

and customer satisfaction are the basic tenets on which the organization is based. Each

garment is considered important.

This commitment is mirrored in their turnover of more than $ 55.25 Million, that too in

face of recession in the textile segment. With a committed and skilled workforce and

sophisticated modern machinery, they feel confident of executing the most exacting of

orders.

Their commitment to consistent quality, customer service and reliable delivery, right from

management circles to the worker level, has seen their products being looked upon as an

industry benchmark.

Their intensively trained experts in various departments are constantly striving to control

costs in order to create garments, which are value for money. With the continued goodwill


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iii. Capacity Summary

iv. ProductsParagon's work line is as vast as the organization. It covers men's and boys' shirts - casuals,

men's shirts - formal, ladies' and girls' dresses, men's and ladies' bottoms, among others .

The product range covers:

3 button Polo Shirts T-shirts Tailored Collar Polo Shirts Turtle Neck Mock Neck Jackets Loungewear Golf wear Sportswear Sleepwearetc.


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v. BuyersParagons high profile customers are not only happy but also satisfied which has earned

them recognition and unflattering loyalty from prominent buyers worldwide.

REEBOK DOMESTIC REEBOK EXPORT ADIDAS DOMESTIC ADIDAS INTERNATIONAL PUMA DOMESTIC HUMMEL RELIANCE TRENDS


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vi. Social ComplianceEmployee Benefits

1. Best Employee Award: For all the categories of employees for their overallperformance

2. Attendance Bonus: Every month along with the wages, attendance bonus will begiven to the employees. Those who have full attendance will get Rs.100 and Rs. 50

will be given for half /one day absence.

3. Health and Hygiene program especially for mothers of crche children andhousekeepers.

4. Awareness Programmes: To Improve the Knowledge of employees regardingvarious matters awareness programmers are conducted. The following are

important among them.

HIV/AIDS Awareness programmes by NGOs Food and Nutrition Programmes Fire Fighting Training First Aid Training Sexual harassment committees Childrens Day Celebration for the crche babies Women's Day Celebration Social Responsibility of the Company:

5. Donations: for NGOs or other Organizations during natural Calamities likeTsunami, Earth quake etc.

6. Loan Facilities: To help the employees during their financial crisis loan will begiven to them. (One month salary- will be given. To avail this facility the person

should have worked for minimum one year.

vii. Statutory Benefits1. Canteen Facility.2. ESI Facility All the employees are covered under ESI facility according to the

Employees State Insurance Act, 1948.

3.

Provident Fund: To ensure Social Security of employees they will be covered


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under Provident Fund Scheme according to the EPF and Miscellaneous Provisions

Act, 1952.Contribution: 12% from Employee and 12% from Employer (divided

into two: a) 8.33% for Pension Scheme b) 3.67% for EPF).

a. Pension:At the age of 58 an employee can avail his/her Pension. For this he/she has to be

worked for minimum 10 years

4. Gratuity: For those who render continues five years of service in the Organization.According to the Payment of Gratuity Act, 1972 the employee will get 15 days

wages (last drawn wages) for the no. of years he has worked. Maximum 3, 50,000

5. Bonus: Pargons pays 15% bonus to its employees (divided into two - 10% and5%)

6. Wages: According to the Minimum Wages Act.7. Over Time Wages:

If an employee performs overtime work he will be paid with overtime wages.


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UNDERSTAND THE APPAREL BUSINESS PROCESS

The textile and apparel supply chain accounts for a good share in terms of number of

companies and people employed. The apparel industry is divided into four main segments.

At the top of the supply chain, there are fibre (raw material) producers using either natural

or synthetic materials. Raw fibre is spun, woven or knitted into fabric by second segment.

The third segment of the supply chain is the apparel manufacturer which converts fabric

into garment with many processes involved. The final segment is the retailers who are

responsible for making apparels available to consumers.

The T angle of the apparel supply chain shows how buyer, suppliers and garment

manufacturer are linked to each other. There are two sides of the T i.e. left and right.The left side is called the buyer to the manufacturer and the right side is called the

suppliers to manufacturer. The two horizontal sides are linked to each other through the

vertical side i.e. the buyer and suppliers are linked through apparel manufacturer.

The T angle illustrates how information flows from the buyer to the apparel

manufacturer. The information normally, sketches of the garment given by the buyer, are

studied by the manufacturer and accordingly list of raw materials required is made. The

different swatch (standard for type of yarn, colour of the yarn and piece of accessories) are

sent to different suppliers for development. The supplier develops and sends it to

manufacturer and which is forwarded to buyer. Once approved by buyer, the orders are

placed with the suppliers with approved samples. When the raw materials are received as

per the specifications given to the supplier, in-house manufacturing starts with the

production. The different process of manufacturing results in the final garment product

which is finally dispatched to the Buyer. The Buyer then retails the same through stores to

the ultimate consumers.


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Figure 1: The T angle of the Apparel Supply Chain

i. Description of the Buyer Side of the Apparel Supply ChainThe buyer side is normally involved with designing of the garment, production of samples,

order collection, apparel retail.

Apparel DesignDesigning of Apparel is either done in-house or contracted to design companies. The first

step in designing is the analysis of the consumer which the Company is targeting. The

apparel design is influenced by various parameters like other designer collection presented

in the fashion cities of the world, fashion reviews from earlier seasons, fashion magazine

also plays an important input for the design efforts and most important is the feedback

gained from the sales of the similar products that were developed earlier.

Prototype garments are made for design approval which consumes considerable amount of

time.


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Production of samples and order collectionThe next step after the design in apparel supply chain is the production of the samples.

Once the designs are developed, decisions regarding the fabric like cotton or polyester and

quantity etc are made. Based on fabric and quantity decided, decisions related to country

and manufacturers are made. Once decision is made, developed designs are sent to

different manufacturers and are asked to develop proto samples (the stage brings design

from paper to cloth for design appearance). Normally, during proto stage manufacturer

figure stands between 5 and 8. Once proto are developed, number of manufacturers is

reduced to 2 to 3 depending on the total quantity of the article and also on selected

manufacturer production capacity or volumes. The order quantities are placed to different

manufacturers and manufacturer is asked to develop size-sets (alternate sizes of the

garment are developed example S: Small, L: Large, XXL: Extra Extra Large). Once size-

set is approved, sale samples (samples developed for advertising and see the market

response towards the article) are made. Finally, with everything in place two identical

pieces are developed one for the buyer and other for the manufacturer called as sealer

(sealer sample is identification or standard for production). This sample is stamped by the

buyers and the manufacturer can proceed with the production.

Apparel RetailApparel products are made available to consumers in a variety of retail outlets. Specialty

stores offer a limited range of apparel products and accessories specialising in a specific

market segment. Apparel sales also take place through wholesalers or mass merchandisers

such as Wal-Mart, Kmart and Target. These retailers offer a variety of hard and soft goods

in addition to apparel. Departmental stores like Macys, Nordstrom offer a large number of

national brands in both hard and soft goods categories. Off-price stores, such as Marshalls

and T.J.Maxx buy excess stock of designer- label and branded apparel from retailers and

are able to offer lower prices but with incomplete assortments. The apparel sale is also

shared by mail order companies, e-tailers through internet, and factory outlets etc.


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ii. Description of the Supplier Side of the Apparel Supply ChainThe suppliers in the apparel manufacturing are quite diversified. It involves suppliers of

different raw materials such as fibre and yarn producers, fabric manufacturers and other

raw-materials.

Fibre and Yarn ProductionFibres are categorised into two groups: natural and man-made. Natural fibre includes plant

fibres such as cotton, linen, jute etc and animal fibre such as wool. Synthetic fibres include

nylon, polyester, acrylic etc. Synthetic fibre production usually requires significant capital

and knowledge. Natural and synthetic fibres of short lengths are converted into yarn by

spinners, throwsters and texturizers. Different types of fibres can also be blended

together to produce yarn such as grindle etc.

iii. Description of the Manufacturer Side of the Apparel SupplyChain

Fabric production

This segment of supply chain transforms the yarn into fabric by different processes such as

weaving, knitting a non-woven process. In a weaving process, yarns are looped together

lengthwise and width wise at right angles. Grey Yarn may be woven by a simple

procedure to produce grey fabric and which are then dyed for a specific colour. Instead,

dyed yarns may also be woven but not dyed. In knitting, yarn is interloped by latched and

spring needles i.e. two different loops are mingled together with needle adjustment.

Once the approvals regarding the raw-material are made by the buyer, the manufacturercan proceed with the production.

Apparel Production

The process proceeds once the fabric is produced; it is either dyed or washed. The dyed

(coloured) yarn fabric is washed and grey fabric is dyed into a specific colour. After

dyeing or washing, fabric is finished by removing water in the tumbler and later pressed in

stenter which also maintains width of the fabric. Now the fabric is ready for garmentising


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i.e. it is ready to be cut and stitched into the garment. Garmentising starts with the design

of the garment to be made (usually on the paper called specs). Patterns (usually made up

of thicker and stronger paper) are made from the designwhich is then used to cut the fabric

(cutting usually happens in the form of layers).

CAD systems are used for pattern layout and are integrated together with cutting systems.

In apparel manufacturing, all the stages are labour intensive as they are not suitable for

any kind of automation. In the stitching section, garment is usually assembled using the

progressive bundle system (PBS). Sewing machine operators then process or sew them in

batches i.e. first few are operation are joining the different parts together and then further

amendments related to design are carried out. The supervisors direct and balance the line

activities and check the quality. This involves large work in progress (WIP) inventories

and minimal flexibility. For faster apparel production, use of unit production system which

reduces the buffer sizes between the operations or modular assembly systems and allows a

small group of sewing operators to assemble the entire garment.

Finishing, Packaging and Dispatch of Apparel

Garments produced are labelled, packaged and usually shipped to a warehouse. The

garments are then shipped to the retailers warehouse. In an effort to reduce time fromplacement of the product order to the consumers purchase of the apparel, several practices

are gaining popularity. There is increased automation and use of electronic processing in

the warehouses of both manufacturers and retailers.


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i. Paragon Apparel : Process Flow Chartii.


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Paragon Apparel : Departments Functions and Operations

Company mainly deals in two segments of the apparel supply chain i.e. one manufacturing

of fabric and other manufacturing of garment. These two segments are two different

processes but are very much linked in the supply chain. The Company has different

departments each having specified functions and responsibilities. Description of each

department will follow in respect to how they occur in supply chain:


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Cutting Department

The department is responsible for cutting of the fabric into different parts of the garment.

This department is mainly responsible for cutting and avoiding wastage. To ensure

minimum wastage, proper set of tools such as CAD and others are used in the process. The

PPC by using CAD and other tools issues article average with a draft or diagram of how

different patterns should be placed on to the layer. The cutting department based on their

experience and expertise either accepts the proposed average or sometimes gives a better

average by few percent. The department makes production plan for all cutting stations

based on article or style requested. This also works on weekly basis. Once fabric is cut

different parts of the same garment are bundled together.


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Stitching Department

The department is responsible for stitching different parts of garment together. The

process takes place in the assembly line system. The assembly line system is the set of

many different stitching machines each for a specific purpose. These machines are

arranged in an orderly fashion depending on how different parts of garment should be

attached. Assembly line method is used for large production. PPC decides on the article or

style to be produced with quantity. The stitching department makes necessary production

planning i.e. time line in accordance with each article. The stitching process is the most

time consuming and labour intensive process in the entire garment production. The

planning is done weekly.


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Printing Department

In Paragon Apparel Pvt. Ltd. They have their own printing unit at the basement.

They do all types of printing as per the requirement of the buyers.

Different types of print are given below :-

Pigment print Puff print Foil print Water base print Flock print

Plastic sole print PVC free rubber print Picture print Glitter print Transfer print

There are 2 automatic printing machine and 1 hand printing machine and table printingalso running for the s/off printing.

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purpose.


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Production Planning and Control (PPC) Department

The department is responsible for making plans for the entire organization i.e. all the

departments. PPC being in the centre of all departments also controls their functionality.

The PPC sends production plan to different departments on weekly basis and daily for any

amendments. The PPC keeps check on different departments by requesting planning and

production reports for each day. PPC only receives orders from the Management. With

order quantity and dispatch date, it does the planning for product cycle. The top

management is in continuous contact with PPC.

Figure 4: The PPC link with other departments


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Merchandising Department

The department acts as a liaison between the buyer and manufacturing division. On one

hand, the department is responsible for notifying changes in the product to the PPC and

also to make sure that article is produced as per planning by the PPC and within dispatch

time limits. On the other hand, it has to continually update buyer with planning and

production status. The department takes care of all correspondence with buyer and is

responsible for communicating it to PPC. The department also takes care of necessary

sampling such as proto, size set and final which is necessary prior to production.

In Paragon Apparel the structure of the merchandising department is as follows:-

MERCHANDISER IS REQUIRED TO CARRY OUT FOLLWING

ACTIVITIES:

Design/Sampling. Fabric. Accessories. Testing.

Production. Quality Check. Documentation. Shipping/Forwarding

Merchandising manager

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The merchandiser has to keep records of all the transactions between the buyer and him.

For this record keeping is done in the form of MASTER FILE.

The master file contains the following:-

Tech-pack Fabric swatch Trim sample Size set Quality assurance

Mails sent by the buyer Approvals received Embroidery sample, if any Costing

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Productionfilesenttoproductiondepartment

fromthemerchandisingdepartment.


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Sampling Department

Sampling unit is situated at the basement of Paragon Apparel down to the merchandising

department.

The merchandiser communicates the passed samples or the comments recd to thesampling dept .This process is followed for all the types of the samples.

The sampling section also calculates the Thread Consumption. This is done usingthe meter. The meter is attached to the sewing machine and the garment is stitched.

The meter gives the amount of thread consumed (in mts).

They also calculate the thread using the measuring method. They stitch a meterlength. Then the thread is ripped off and the length measures.

They then prepare the Thread Consumption Report. This report contains the details Type of stitch, Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per mtr. This is filled for all

the stitches in the garment.


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The sampling section in-charge maintains a Daily Machine Checking List. This listcontains many details regarding the machines in the sampling section. This is filled

in and kept as a record.

Details: line no, mechanic name, date, m/c ID no, m/c type. The details of the m/cfilled in are: oil level, cleanliness, threading, guides/attachments, eye guard, finger

guard, pulley guard, loose parts, and remarks.

The Line mechanic, Line supervisor, Floor manager and the Mechanic In-chargesigns in the list.

Another sheet, the Machine Breakdown Status is maintained. This contains thedetails of the breakdown of the machine at any point of time.

Details: Name, code, date, line style, No, m/c no, defects, B/D Start, B/D End, m/csign, remarks.

Stages and Types of Samples

Development Samples

These are the samples that are made at the start of the sampling section. These samples are made to get an idea of what the style is like.

Proto Samples These are done to get an idea of the garment. The samples are made using Substitute Fabric and Substitute Trims. That is,

actual fabric and actual trims are not used. Near to fabric and trims are used for

these samples.

For J Crew the samples are made of L size. For Shorts the samples are made of32 sizes and the rest of the samples are made of M size.

4 proto samples are made.o 1 is sent to the buyero 1 is sent to the companyo 1 is sent to the merchandisero 1 is kept in the Sampling section

The samples are then sent along with the Sample Submit sheet. If commentsare sent back, then a 2nd Proto Sample is made.

Fit Samples


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These samples are basically made to check the Fit of the garments. This sample is not made for all the buyers. It is made only for those buyers who

order for them.

Size-set Samples

These samples are not made here, but made in the Sewing Section. These samples are made for different sizes. This is done to check the Pattern

Grading.

This sample is not made for all the buyers. It is made only for those buyers whoorder for them.

The buyers ask for these samples to check the Pattern grading and the differentsizes of the garments.

3 samples are made

Extraction Samples

These samples are made for business purposes. This sample is not made for all the buyers. It is made only for those buyers who

order for them.

Pre-Salesmen Samples

Generally the above 3 samples are not asked for by most of the buyers. Hencethe next sample made after the proto sample, is the Pre-Salesmen Sample.

These samples are made to check the samples whether they are proper for theShowroom samples.

3 samples are made. These samples are sent to the buyer for approval. If they are approved then the

Showroom samples are made.

Salesmen/Showroom Samples

These samples basically made to check the sales of the style. They are madeand sent to various places where the customer feedback is taken as to whether

the style will work or not.


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About 16-20 samples are made depending on the buyers requirement. After these samples are made and sent, the sales are checked. Then depending

on the customer feedback, few styles are dropped or few styles are approved.

The styles which are approved are then given order for.

Pre-Production Samples

These samples are not made here, but made in the Sewing Section. These samples are made prior to production, to approve the sample for bulk

production.

4 pre-production samples are made and sent to the buyer for approval. If the samples are approved then the Pre-Production Sealer Samples are made,

otherwise the samples are made once again incorporating the comments sent

back.

Garment Pack Test Sample

These samples are made for the testing of the garments. 3 GPT samples are made and sent to the merchandiser. The merchandiser then sends the samples for testing. The report obtained after

the testing is called the GPT report.

Pre-Production Sealer Samples

These samples are the ones that are sent for the bulk production. The production sample if approved the n the same and fresh samples are again

made. These are sent to the buyer for the Seal.

If the production sample is not approved, then fresh samples are madeaccording to the comments and the changes sent by the buyer. These samples

are sent to the buyer for the Seal.

Once the Pre-Production Sealer Samples are approved, the buyer puts a Seal onthe sample. This sample then becomes the one to go for the bulk production.

Along with this sample, a Package is sent. This package contains the FPTreport (fabric pack test), GPT report (garment pack test) and shrinkage report.


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This sample and package is sent to the production floor, and after this the bulkproduction if the order starts.

Finishing Department

The general processes followed in the finishing sections are:o Counter Checking

This is the process of checking or inspecting the fabric in a cabinet under

the tube-light.

This process checks for any major defects such as damaged fabric or

unravelled stitching. The pcs with major defects are marked with stickers.

o Kaja (Eyelet)This process is carried out for the styles that require a button hole. Kaja

means Eyelet or a button hole.

The button holing is the next process after counter checking. This is done

on the button holing machine here itself.

o BartackAfter the Kaja is done, the pc goes for bartacking process. This is carried

out on the Bartack machine.

o TaggingThis process is the attaching of a Tag near the pocket area. This process is

carried out if the style demands it.

This process is carried out to give a creased effect near the pocket. This

goes to the person who does the tagging. This is carried out in the tagging

machine.

o WashingAfter the tagging process, the pcs are all sent to the washing process. The

required wash cycle is carried out on the process and the pcs received.

o Button attachingAfter the pcs are received from washing process, buttoning of the garments

is carried out. This is done in the button attaching machine. There are 5

machines.

o Trimming


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After the buttons are attached to the garments, trimming of the threads is

carried. There are 12 trimming tables.

The pcs are kept on the tables and the threads are trimmed from all the

areas except the pocket bag (done later separately).

o Thread suckingThe pcs then go the thread sucking machine. Here, each pc is turned up side

down inside the (Ramsons) thread sucking machine. This removes any

remains if the thread pcs on the garment.

o Middle CheckingAfter these processes are carried out, the pcs go for the middle checking

process. There are 12 tables where this process is carried out.

The parts checked for in this process are:

Waist Band Front pocket, Back pocket, Coin pocket In/Out Seam Front Panel/ Back panel Front rise/ Back rise Bottom hemThese parts are checked for the stitches, seams, symmetry and the

appearance.

o Pocket TurningAfter the middle checking, the pcs go to the pocket turning process. Here,

the pocket bags are turned inside out. This is done to make the dusting

process easy.

o IroningThe pieces are then received for ironing. In this process the pieces are given

slight ironing. They are not pressed hard to remove all the creases. Only

excess creasing is removed.

o Label AttachmentAfter this process, the main label is attached to the pc. This process is done

on the SNLS machines next to the iron tables.

o Label Trimming


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After the labels have been stitched and attached, the pcs go for trimming

again. This time the trimming of the label threads is done.

o Final CheckingAfter all the above processes, the pcs finally go for the final checking

process. In this process the checking sequences are:

Front top Side Garment Main label, Size label and Wash care label Collar: Line balancing, collar point, CP length, Pick shape, Collar

middle Out

Right Shoulder seam: Right A/H, Back A/H , Side seam Right Bottom Hem, Front pocket, Left bottom hem, Left side seam,

Left A/H, Left back AH

Back Side Back yoke straight line, pleats distance from A/H Down stitch raw edge Broken stitch stain Unsecured buttons Front placket hi-low Shade variation

The pcs that are found proper are passed and a record is maintained by the

feeding helper in a register. Details maintained Name (operator), No. of

pcs passed.

If the pcs are found to have defects then they are put in a separate carton

and sent for alterations. Defects found are:

Stitching Bartack/Button Missing Spot washing Damages.The alterations if any are required are carried out in the finishing section

itself.


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Projects Done at PAPL

Projects Done

As a part of industrial learning we tried to understand the various processgoing on in the industry and our mentors Mr. Gareesh Taneja and

Mr.Vikram Singh helped us and guided us to complete our observations,

readings and the project.

The list of projects done

Production Downtime Control


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IMPROVISATION OF LINE EFFICIENCY BY REDUCINGPRODUCTION FLOOR DOWN TIME

OBJECTIVE:

To improve the line efficiency by altering the line layout and by clubbing few

operations in the same line

Introduction

What is Down Time?

Down time also known as non-productive time, Off-standard time is one of the top

most reasons for less factory efficiency. It is one of the major Key Performance

Indicator which every has to analyse. Factory has to analyse major down times to

control and improve machine and operator utilization.

Top 5 reasons for down time are

Line setting Operation sitting idle No feeding Machine breakdown No planning for line

Garment manufacturing business more specifically garment export business is aprofitable business if factory performance is measured and management work to

improve performance level step by step. Each of the above KPI plays role on

production cost, factorys reputation and profit margin.


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Various Non-Productive Measures in Garment Production thatlower line efficiency

MachineBreakDown

FeedingPlanChanged

Absenteeism

NeedleBreak

Down

FeedingDelay

CuttingQualityIssue

LineSetting

OperatorFrequently

Change

StitchingQualityIssue

OperatorAdjusting/Morning

PowerFailure

NoApprovalSample/File

AccessoriesDelay


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.

Steps involved in project

1. One Floor with 10 lines is selected for the study of the Down Time.2. Various factors leading to down time of production line are analysed.3. Study is done for 14 days (14 JUNE to 30 JUNE) on 10 lines. (All the

factors responsible for Down Time are identified). Down time of every

individual line is recorded and the Factors for the same are noted.

4. Recorded data is interpreted in excel and maximum contributingfactors are considered.

5. Cause and Effect Diagram is prepared for the major Down Timecontributing factors.

6. Root Cause of Major Factors is addressed and control points areestablished.

7.

Solutions are suggested to the company to reduce the Down Time.8. Restudy has been done on the same production line for 10Days (12

JULY to 23 JULY) to track the improvement percentage.


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For the Study of down time one complete unit is selected.

Paragon Apparel has 5 units out of which study is done only on UNIT-5,

D71-72 Facility, Paragon Apparels Pvt. Ltd.

Unit 5 comprises of

- Cutting Areao 2 Cutting tables of 20 metre lengtho 3 Straight Knife Cutterso 1 Fusing Machine

- Sewing Areao 280 Sewing Machines Arranged in 10 Lineso 10 Ironing Tableso 10 Packing Tables

SOP For IE Department


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Floor Plan


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Factors responsible for Production Downtime

Machine Break Down

The period of time the machine is not available for production due to

maintenance or breakdown

Feeding Plan Changed

Sometimes the final point of initial line feeding, plan is changed due to high

priority orders or production planning errors.

Absenteeism

This is the Down Time due to non availability of workers due to high

absenteeism Rate. Operators were not present in the initial operations or

critical operations.

Feeding Delay

All plans and efforts towards productivity will fail if line is not been fed

continuously. No feeding or irregular feeding is one of the top reasons for

lower productivity in poorly managed factory. Poor production plan, wrong

selection product mix in seasons and ineffective cutting department are the

reasons that stop continuous feeding.

Power Failure

Frequent power failures result in the Downtime as time taken between power

failures and running the Power GENSET incurs huge loss of time.

Accessories Delay

All trims have not been approved or not yet sourced. Until required trims are

sourced all operation cant be started.

Few garment components has been sent outside for printing or embroidery

but did not received on time.

Cutting Quality Issue


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In many cases downtime is created by the Cutting quality problems which

results in the production halts.

Accessories Quality Issue

Even though quality of the Accessories is tested in very advance but some minor cases are

noted of getting production stoppages due to the accessories quality issues.

Stitching Quality Issue

Stitching Quality is continuously monitored and checked. But some quality problems takes

lot of time to get resolved and may lead to Down Time.

Line Setting

Even SMED tools are followed in line setting but due to line setting there are Down Timewhich can be further addressed.

Technical Layout Issue/Methods

Supervisor did not fully assess the operation sequence or skill requirement for each

operation.

Quality issue, supervisor not able to give suitable operator for the critical operation

No Approval Sample/File

Some cases are noted when due to some reasons sample is not approved or in

the pipeline.

Needle Break Down

Due to the Quality and Compliance issue Needle Break Down results in the

production delays of approx 15 to 20 minutes as line is stopped to find all

parts of the broken needle and pieces of nearby machines has to pass through

a needle detector to ensure a safe merchandize.


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Data Collection

Down time of every individual line is recorded and the Factors for the

same are noted.

All the Factors are considered and down time is calculated for each day per

line for a period of 14 Days. Which shows about 20% of the total available

time is wasted in doing non-productive tasks.

So in a shift of 8 hr i.e. 480min down time is 96min per machine.


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- Feeding Delay -29 %Line operators sit idle due to no feeding from other department.

- Line Setting 24%Operators in the sewing line sit idle due to Delay in Line Setting.

- Cutting Quality Issue 7%Operator in the sewing line sit idles due to issues in the cutting quality.


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Solutions

1. Job card for the printing unit is prepared so that all the factors and time duration can me

mentioned on it. This will help in defining the priority for the lot and timely sewing line can be

feed.


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2. Traffic line system is suggested for the lines. So that it can be visually identified that the WIP

available for feeding the line.

Green - 7 hour feeding WIP available.

Yellow - 4 hour feeding WIP available.

Red - 2 hour feeding WIP available which notifies that line will Soon be out of feed.

3. Instructions are given to line setting team for the Line Setting for the adjustment of machines

before setting it in the line so that operator time can be saved as 40% of the line setting time is due

to Machine Adjustments that are done after the machine is put in line.

Checklist was given to obtain all the required things prior line setting.

4. One helper was also given to line setting team for threading the Sewing Machines as it will savethe line setting time for the company.


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Re

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These are the Improvement which can be seen in the down time after theImprovement was made.

11% 3%

4% 1%

21%

3%23%

1%

12%

5%

2% 3%

7%4%

Summary

12JULYto23JULY

MachineBreak

Down

FEEDINGPLANCHANGED

Absenteeism

NEEDLEBREAKDOWN

FEEDINGDELAY

CuttingQulityIssue

Linesetting

OPERATORFREQUENTLYCHANGE

StitchingQulityIssue

OperatorAdjusting/MORNING

PowerFailure

NoApprovalSample/FILE

ACCESSORIESDELAY

Others


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Conclusion

The improvements made in the company had made difference in totalproductive time by decreasing the Down time by 5 %.

So the outcome can be seen as saving of 1shift of 8 hours per month.

References

Most of the information on the company and the departments has acquired from the interaction and

involvement in the process. Form the survey, books and internet.

The sources from where the information has acquired are mentioned below

Most of the information is procured from internal sources of PAPL. http://www.stitchworld.net

o Edition:May2011o Edition:June2009o Edition:March2009

Document Papl

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