Destinations NATURALLY JAMAICA’S H EART & …Montego Bay’s. Stopping along the way to see the...

Destination Jamaica 2006/07 • 157

Destinations

IIt’s easy to fall under the spell of Port Antonio. With its

sexy vibe, this secluded area has seduced starlets, royalty

and moguls for years. It is, naturally, perhaps the most

N AT U R A L LY

J A M A I CA’ S

H E A R T & S O U L

R E T R E AT

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158 • Once you go, you know.

beautiful part of Jamaica.Located in the lush and green parish of

Portland and accented with an old worldcharm, Port Antonio is nestled on theCaribbean Sea at the foothills of the BlueMountains on the island’s northeast coast.

The entire region is the type of forest-ed paradise you thought was gone for good.In the windward corner, surf rolls ashoreinto hidden coves where dazzling azurewaters crash against rocky headlands.Beaches are set against the backdrop ofimposing mountains which spike the skyat thousands of feet.

The area’s unspoiled charm has alwaysbeen an under the radar screen secret,bewitching celebrities since the time blackand white movies were in vogue. Silverscreen luminaries have lent panache to PortAntonio for years. Today, the area’s beautyawaits eager visitors just two hours fromKingston’s airport and four hours fromMontego Bay’s. Stopping along the way tosee the sights will put joy into the journey.

Errol Flynn, the swashbuckling moviepirate of days gone by, settled here and saidit is more beautiful than any woman he had

ever seen. American poetess Ella WheelerWilcox described Port Antonio’s twin har-bors as “the most exquisite port on earth.”

But it was neither movie stars norromance that put Port Antonio on the map.Believe it or not, it was bananas. The town’spicturesque twin harbors were once a prin-cipal port for banana boats. The bananatrade was immortalized by Harry Belafonte’s“Banana Boat Song” (“Day-O”). The pros-pering banana business brought more thannewfound money to the area — it broughtvisitors. As the industry grew, and bananaboats became larger and more advanced,visitors from Europe and North Americastarted booking passage.

Soon the word got out, and sleepy lit-tle Port Antonio became a hotbed for jet-setters before there were jets. Over the years,it quietly became an elegant retreat for

Hollywood escape artists such as BetteDavis, Ginger Rogers, and other high-pro-filers like William Randolph Hearst and J.P.Morgan. Flynn was more closely associatedwith Port Antonio. He sailed in on his yachtZacca, and stayed the rest of his life, makingoccasional forays to Hollywood for movie-making. Perhaps it was his love for the areathat eventually brought movie-making toPort Antonio.

Films were shot and stars were createdhere. “Clara’s Heart” and the huge boxoffice hit “Cocktail” are all part of PortAntonio’s reel.

Celebrities Brooke Shields, HarrisonFord, Tom Cruise, Denzel Washington,Eddie Murphy, Robin Williams andShakira find their way to peaceful PortAntonio. Less conspicuous visitors— honeymooners, romantics, hikers andnature lovers — also love the area.

ACCOMMODATIONSThis is an area untouched by mass

tourism and light years away from the all-inclusive beach resorts found elsewhere.Visitors find everything from posh seasidevillas, to charming family-operated bou-tique hillside hotels, to cozy inns, quaintguest houses with character. There’s even amedieval castle. Many resort properties arenestled along the coast, while othersperched hillside overlook the sea.

Titchfield Peninsula was home to thearea’s first hotel. Built in 1897, it becamethe place to rub elbows with the rich andfamous. During the mid-1950s, the periodwhen the area was gaining a chic reputation,well-heeled Garfield Weston built French-man’s Cove; reportedly the world’s mostexpensive hotel and the first all-inclusiveresort. Guests included Prince Charles andthe Duke of Edinburgh who accompaniedPrincess Anne on her 16th birthday. Theystarted arriving in private airplanes andtoured the grounds in electric golf buggies.

Today, hand-painted murals and goth-ic turrets adorn the venerable DeMontevinLodge, a classic 120-year-old Victorianstructure on Fort George Street. Some of

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Opening page: Port Antonio is, natural-ly, the most beautiful part of Jamaica.Romantic rafting on the Rio Grande riverwas pioneered by actor Errol Flynn.Christ Church in the town dates from1840. Foothills of the Blue Mountainsoverlook dazzling waters of San San.Photos by Robert Ulrich.

P O R T A N T O N I O

TOP10ADVENTURES

Birding in the Rio Grande ValleyExploring the Blue Mountains

Visiting Gardens at AthenryFrenchman’s Cove

Jerk at Boston BeachSwimming at Blue Lagoon Rio Grande River Rafting

Seeing Trident CastleRelaxing at Reich FallsVisiting Nonsuch Cave

p157-162_Pt Antonio 05/24/06 6:45 PM Page 158


its decorative iron works may have been onbanana boats, which ferried between Bostonand Port Antonio. This old world hotel sitson Titchfield Hill, near town and once aneighborhood for the wealthy. Also withinwalking distance from town nearby isHoliday Home with a Georgian-styledatmosphere and large wooden verandah.

East of town accommodations are richand varied. Featured several times on“Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous,” theTrident Villas & Hotel maintains its five-star appeal. Peacocks and peahens proudlyprance on the Bermuda grass lawn. Afterits recent refurbishing, the property is betterthan ever. Stepping into the villas is likestepping out of the Caribbean and into atraditional English sitting room.

Within walking distance from thehotel, hugging the west headland of TurtleCrawle Bay is the stately Trident Castle.This Austrian-style castle was designed byhotelier/architect Earl Levy as a private res-idence, one of the largest in the Caribbean.It features eight bedrooms, a helicopter pad,a Romanesque pool and private chapel. Twomammoth stone crocodiles (Hetty andJohn) stand guard at the entrance to thisgleaming structure where you can plan awedding fit for a king.

Just around the bend, with the BlueMountains as its backdrop, Bay View Villassits hillside overlooking peaceful TurtleCrawle Bay, a marine preserve with mana-tees. Moving east, you see the sprawlinggrounds of the Jamaica Palace, with itswhite wall, gated entrance and swimmingpool shaped like Jamaica — jump in andswim from Port Antonio to Negril in oneminute.

Frenchman’s Cove Hotel is a collec-tion of stone houses in a park-like setting ona 45-acre private estate above Frenchman’sCove Beach.

Another pretty resort, landscaped withlush greenery and sporting spectacular oceanviews, is Fern Hill Club Hotel, a charmingfamily-operated property. It offers tranquili-ty and privacy in the foothills of the Blue

Mountains and is near San San beach.You won’t find goblins at Goblin Hill.

You will find a collection of Georgian-stylevacation homes set on 12 acres of rollinglawns and gardens hillside overlookingbeautiful San San Bay. Villas are nestledamid Palms and elephant ear plants.

Dreamy luxurious accommodationsinclude picturesque villas like Bonne Amieand Blue Lagoon Villas nestled against theCaribbean Sea in the San San area. Theyprovide secluded, upscale accommodationsamid breathtaking scenery.

Italian-owned San San Tropez is anintimate villa with six suites and brightly-decorated rooms at the edge of a rainforestand fronted by tropical beaches.

One of Port Antonio’s prettiest resortsis Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, offering theprivacy of an intimate inn with the ameni-

ties of a large hotel. Known for its personalservice and gourmet cuisine, the resort isperched high on the hillside presentingwonderful views of both the Caribbean Seaand the distant mountains.

Only the variety of things to see and dorival Port Antonio’s diverse accommodations.

ATTRACTIONS & ACTIVITIESThings to see and do in the Port

Antonio region no doubt validate Jamaica’sreputation as the “land of wood and water.”In the Blue Mountains, which rise to 7,402feet at Blue Mountain Peak, tropical forest ishome to more than 100 butterfly speciesincluding the Giant Swallowtail, the largestin the northern hemisphere with a six-inchwingspan. It is prime territory for sightingall the nearly 30 endemic bird speciesincluding the rare black-billed streamer-tailed hummingbird (Doctor Bird). Bird

Trips to the Blue Mountains are available from Port Antonio where amazing views ofthe mountains, rivers and valley await hikers and birders. Photo courtesy of ShireenAga/Hotel Mocking Bird Hill.


WWith about 300 recorded species

(many winter migrants from North

America), 100 plus local breeding birds and

nearly 30 native birds it’s no wonder

Jamaica is becoming more popular with

birders around the world.

Buzzing from flower

to flower and sipping nec-

tar as it goes, the Red-

billed Streamertail is a tiny

hummingbird that almost

looks like a large flying

insect than a bird. Known

by Jamaicans as the “doc-

tor bird,” it is the national

bird. This elegant bird has a

long and pointy beak and

long tail feathers, like the

tailcoats doctors once

wore. So “doctor bird” it is.

Finding the endemics

can range from easy to

difficult. The Jamaican

Blackbird feeds on crea-

tures living in bromeliads.

Chestnut-billed and Lizard cuckoos,

both with spectacular striped tails, can

sometimes be seen in the wilds of the

Cockpit Country in central Jamaica.

Another prize, the West Indian Whistling

Duck (yes, it does whistle) is found mainly

on Jamaica’s south coast and at the Royal

Palm Reserve in Negril.

Driving into the Blue Mountains,

especially passing through Hardwar Gap

and Newcastle, unveils a profusion of col-

orful birds. In the mountains you will find all

three of Jamaica’s hummingbirds, along

with Vireos, Todies, Orioles, Stripe-headed

Tanagers and various kinds of Flycatchers.

The unspoiled forests of the John Crow

Mountains are good places to spot both

Yellow and Black-billed Amazon parrots,

Jamaican Blackbirds and Jamaican Crows.

Breeding season is usually from April

through June, and it is the best time

to glimpse some of the most stunning

plumage. When the snowbirds arrive in

December the island is awash in brightly-

colored songbirds. Winter “fly-ins” include

at least a dozen species of the brightly-

colored North American Wood-

Warblers, American Redstarts, Black-

throated Blue Warblers, Cape May

Warblers and the American Kestrel.

The Black River in the South Coast

wetlands is a great place to witness

many of them.

August and September consti-

tute the annual hunting season

in Jamaica. Although most of the

island’s species are protected, there

are also game birds in some areas.

Bird watching is not recommended

during this period.

Good local guides are available.

It is best to make arrangements ahead

of your visit.

To say Jamaica is “for the birds” is no exaggeration. You probably won’t offend anyone

by saying it. When you come to this birding paradise, your spirits will soar.

And if you’re not already a birder, you soon may be.



watching is best early morning or at dusk.You can even spy rare species sitting on yourhotel’s verandah.

Cycling tours in the Blue Mountainsmake it easy to enjoy the natural splendor.Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours offers up to two-hour, 12-mile downhill tour. See remotewaterfalls, how coffee is roasted at coffeeplantations, historic and educational sights,and have lunch at an open-air restaurant.

Organized hikes of varying difficultyare another way to experience the area’sbeauty. Listen to soothing bubbling streams,discover bamboo forests and valleys of fernsand soak up beautiful panoramic views ofthe Rio Grande Valley. Treks are offeredthrough the Rio Grande Valley and JohnCrow Mountains and to Moore Town andMaroon Country, called the Land of LookBehind by runaway slaves who hid fromBritish soldiers in the forest. Hikes vary indifficulty like an easy two-to three-hourbeautiful trek to pretty Nanny Falls to anarduous overnight excursion to NannyTown, named after the 18th century warriorpriestess who led the Maroons against theBritish. Your hosts are knowledgeable trailguides from communities in Valley.

Nonsuch Caves is full of stalagmites,stalactites and fossilized sponges (rare in thetropics). A panoramic view of the coastlineand mountains is worth the trip about 30 minutes southwest of Port Antonio.

Water plays a starring role in area activ-ities. Errol Flynn, who encouraged his friendsto race on bamboo rafts, pioneered rafting onthe Rio Grande River. Today, couples settlecomfortably into the seat as a raftsman nav-igates with a bamboo pole along the clearriver. The romantic 2 1/2-hour tour startsinland at Berridale and ends at Rafter’s Rest,where you can shop for souvenirs or enjoy ameal while watching the boats pass by.

With beautiful waters that range fromjade to emerald, Port Antonio’s beaches maybe its best-kept secret. East of town nearDrapers is Frenchmen’s Cove, once featuredon a Jamaica Tourist Board promotionalposter. A cool stream winds its way to

the white-sand beach, which is flanked by greenery.

One mile away is San San Beach, withwaters perfect for swimming and snorkel-ing. This beach was used as a setting for thecable TV movie Treasure Island. You canswim out to nearby tiny Peelu Island butbeware of tiny sea urchins.

Boston Beach near Fairy Hill is whereJerk pork first gained fame. Further east,appropriately named Long Bay, is amongthe most dramatic settings on the island.The view of turquoise waters along the area’slongest beach is picture-perfect. Be careful:it’s great for strolling but waters have a strong undertow, so avoid swimming.Winifred’s Beach (also known as Fairy HillBeach) is a golden-sand crescent with goodsnorkeling offshore. The turn off is oppositeJamaica Crest Resort.

Spend a lazy afternoon sunbathing andswimming in Blue Lagoon, a shimmeringblue hole said to be nearly 200 feet deepand accessible by boat from Port AntonioMarina. The boat ride skirts the coast andnavigates past Pelu Island (given as a wed-ding gift by the Aga Khan) before reaching

the Blue Lagoon. Waters change color froman amazing blue to emerald green as light,reflections and shadows evolve. The tem-perature of the water also changes fromwarm to cool; it’s an amazing sensationwhen you swim. The restaurant at thelagoon is temporarily closed.

Two notable waterfalls are in the area.One of the most magnificent attractions onthe island is Reach (Reich) Falls, nearManchioneal. Frothy white water cascadesdown four stories forming a deep aquama-rine pool. Somerset Falls near Hope Bay iswhere the Daniels River pours down a deepgorge. Check with your hotel front desk.Some attractions may temporarily be closed,or in the process of redevelopment.

Port Antonio has come a long wayfrom the days when banana boats broughtvisitors. It is a port of entry with 24-hourcustoms, immigration services and theMarina at Port Antonio, a new mega-yacht facility in the protected WestHarbour. It has 32 slips to accommodatesailing, sport fishing and yachts up to 350feet. A 100-ton travel lift services yachtsup to 95 feet.


port antonio

The privacy of your own villa with many facilities of a small hotel. Spacious one and two bedroom villas with spectacular ocean views overlooking San San Bay. Air-conditioning, housekeeper/cook,

tennis court, Tree Bar, swimming pool and complimentary entrance to private beachWeb: www.goblinhillvillas.com • E-mail: [email protected] • Tel: 1 800 472 1148


http://www.goblinhillvillas.com

http://www.bayviewvillas-ja.com


Offshore fishing and scuba diving are popular. The International MarlinTournament is held annually in PortAntonio. For a visiting angler who has nevercaught a blue marlin, odds are good.

Scuba diving and snorkeling are excep-tional. Waters are warm and visibility is atleast 60 feet. It takes less than 15 minutes toget to any of the 13 dive sites. Kayaking isalso available. You can arrange a dive tripthrough Lady G’Diver, a PADI dive shopoperating at the marina.

Don’t forget to see the town. Best viewis by driving up to the Bonnie View Hotelfor stunning views of Port Antonio and itstwin harbors. Contact your hotel desk toarrange a walking tour of the historic down-town, with its gorgeous Georgian architec-ture. Its heart is the main square at thejunction of West and Harbour streets.Titchfield peninsula, a finger of land thatseparates the twin harbors, is where lie theremains of the British Fort George, whichonce protected these harbors. A project torestore traditional houses in the Titchfieldarea to their old world splendor is underway. The courthouse in town center is alsobeing restored, courtesy of a local business-

man. The 18th-century Christ Church atWilliam Street is still in use.

Musgrave Market is a fine old buildingin the town’s center where colorful freshproduce stands and bustling activity makefor good photo opportunities. Saturday isthe liveliest day at market.

Cultural tour offered by Joanna Hartoffers visitors a chance to learn about localcustoms, architecture, celebrities and localartists.

A new day trip includes a visit to

Green Castle Estate, not far from AnnottoBay, where you can tour a huge orchid farmand see how organic papaya is grown.

DININGIf you’ve never had jerk pork or chick-

en, this is the area to try it. Jamaicans regardBoston Beach as the birthplace of pungentjerk cooking. As you approach Port Antoniocoming from Ocho Rios make it a point tosample the chicken at Blue Berry Hill jerkstand just outside Buff Bay.

You can treat yourself to a fine diningexperience at several area restaurants.Delicious continental cuisine is served atTrident Villas & Hotel’s elegant seasiderestaurant. Enjoy authentic Jamaican cui-

sine and a beautiful view from the OldCountry Kitchen at Bay View Villas. HotelMockingbird Hill’s Mille Fleurs Restaurantis known for gourmet dining with a nou-veau tropical flair. Start with a tomato andeggplant soup with rosemary butter, fol-lowed by delicious steamed fish. San SanTropez is noted as one of the area’s best spotsfor home-cooked Italian cuisine, home-made bread, salads, pastas and pizza.

Norma’s at the Marina operates arestaurant on the beach and is expected tosoon open a second gourmet restaurant atthe marina overlooking the harbor. Wallsare adorned with turn-of-the-century post-cards including one with a view of the harbor in 1909.

Want local food? Authentic Jamaicanfare is easy to find. In Bryan’s Bay, just westof town, is rustic Dicky’s (reservations arerequired, take your own beverages). Localssay one of the best views of the harbor isfrom the restaurant’s restroom. Try Woody’sin Drapers and Anna Bananas, East Harbor,for more local food. For nightlife, raise theroof at Roof Club, a 40-year-old hotspot.

RESORTS & HOTELSA brief review of the resorts and hotels adver-tised in this publication follows. The reviewdoes not represent all the properties in PortAntonio. For additional information, contactthe property directly or your travel agent.

Bay View Villas - Two three-bedroom cottagesand villa with six twin rooms and private balconies.35-acre estate overlooking Turtle Crawle Bay withviews of Blue Mountains. Cottages with twin andtriple bedrooms, living room and cable TV. Pool,restaurant/bar. Breakfast included.

Goblin Hill Villas - 28 one-and two-bedroomvillas with ocean views on a 12-acre estate. Privacyand personal service of a villa with facilities of aJamaican-Georgian-style hotel. Access to privatebeach. Pool, tennis, snorkeling. Bar. Cook/house-keeper. French and Spanish.

Trident Villas & Hotel - 26 rooms. Five-starseaside villas recently refurbished with new furnish-ings. Trident hosts the rich and famous. Privateverandah, balcony, sea views, air-conditioning, fans,mini-bars, conference room, TV room, gift shop.Gourmet dining room, two bars. Traditional after-noon tea served. Manicured grounds, shaded ten-nis courts, freshwater pool, private beach. Eight-bedroom Trident Castle hosts and caters weddings,family occasions, special functions and concerts.

P O R T A N T O N I O

Slips accommodate sailing, sport-fishing and mega yachts up to 350 feet at the fullservice Marina at Port Antonio in protected West Harbour. It offers 24-hour security,three-phase electrical power and other amenities. The marina is a port of entry.


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