David Burke F08
-
Upload
hautelife-press -
Category
Documents
-
view
241 -
download
12
description
Transcript of David Burke F08
davidburkemagazine
DaviD Burke’s aces in Las vegas
sketching the PersonaLity of a Dining room
tracing cows in equaL ProPortions
monumentaL!the wine tower at foxwooDs
2008
2 0 0 8
COOLE SWAN® - TOP AWARD WINNER SPECIAL MERIT AWARD, BOARD BIA IRISH FOOD & DRINK AWARDS 2007
✯ ✯ ✯ ✯ ✯
Our simple aim is to offer the most delicious-tasting Irish Cream Liqueur. To achieve this, COOLE SWAN®
is created from the highest quality, all natural ingredients which are carefully balanced to deliver a taste
that is seriously delicious!
Imported in the USA by: Coole Quay Liqueur Company, 272 Plandome Road, Suite 100, Manhasset, NY 11030, USA
Tel: +1 516 869 9170 . [email protected]
Made only in Ireland by: Coole Quay Liqueur Company, 60 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2, Ireland Tel: +353 1 602 4760 . [email protected] www.myspace.com/coole_swan www.cooleswan.com
COOLE SWAN® - 5 STAR HIgHEST RECOMMENDATION
PAuL PACuLT SPIRIT JOuRNAL 2008
✯ ✯ ✯ ✯ ✯
MADE ONLY IN IRELAND. BEAUTIFUL CHILLED.Enjoy COOLE SWAN® sensibly.
The COOLE SWAN® words and associated logos are registered trademarks. © 2008 Coole Quay Liqueur Company.
COOLE SWAN® Irish Cream Liqueur is wholly natural. It does not contain any synthetic flavourings or caramel colouring.
2008 • davidburke 3
what an amazing year 2008 has been. as i write this, the finishing touches are being implemented at fishtail, my new seafood restaurant located a stone’s throw from David Burke townhouse. it has truly been a labor of love as, from architectural design to menu completion, i’ve personally been involved in every phase and aspect of construction. now i am thrilled to present new york diners with yet another unique dining option.
Downstairs, the raw bar will stay open until 1:00 a.m., and i predict it will become a neighborhood staple in no time. upstairs, guests can choose between buying whole fish by the pound; perusing our “fishtails only” section, which will cover everything from monkfish to lobster; or opting for a “fussy” fish interpretation of classics for a more decorated plate. you’ll spy andy warhols on the wall, fantastic glass aquariums suspended from the ceiling, and all the other details that you’ve come to expect from my restaurants.
i’m also proud to announce some exciting new partnerships, including the formation of a catering company with aramark that will serve the tristate area. in addition, we are currently scouting out the Philadelphia area to find a space for a new restaurant. we’re looking forward to having a location in the home city of the new world champ Phillies.
with so much going on, it’s easy to lose sight of what’s really important. with every new venture, the David Burke family expands, and amazingly enough, some of its most recent additions have been friends and coworkers in the industry whom i have known the longest. if good food brings people together, i’m thrilled to know my restaurants do the same on so many levels!
dear friends
5
LUCKY STREAK
chef todd stein lands on
the winning combo: David
Burke and vegas.
6
A LOCAL ACE
gm marisa scarpulla grew
up in vegas and feels right
at home at David Burke.
9
LEANING TOWARD WINE
a tower takes center stage
in the room of David Burke
Prime at foxwoods.
13
BLUEPRINTS OF A CHEF
from the kitchen to the
dining room, David Burke
inspires design.
14
PASTURE TO PLATE
traceability and
portion control as
prime ingredients.
15
GAME TIME
Beer and chips à la
David Burke.
17
POLE POSITION
on the fast track to
making world-class
wines.
20
CHEF’S NOTEBOOK
how David Burke’s
thanksgiving turkey
came out clean,
and more!
contents
2008 • davidburke
2008 • davidburke 5
DaviD Burke Prime: Design of a chefsandy Banker is an interior architect at the friedmutter group. she worked closely with chef David
Burke to realize the design and detail behind David Burke Prime, located in foxwoods resort and
casino. together, they pooled their creative inspirations to bring the project to life.
give us an overall look and feel for David Burke Prime.
It’s a very contemporary-style steakhouse that has the flavor of South
American gaucho infused with Chef Burke’s whimsy. It’s roughly 13,000
square feet, complete with a bar/lounge, a main dining area, and a private
banquet room for up to 100 people.
what factors into the inspiration behind the design and detail
of any space?
I basically get a square box to work with. I start with “programming,” or
the basic requirements of the space: what is its function, and what do you
need to accommodate within it? In this case, I asked Chef Burke how
many people he anticipated to determine the size of his kitchen, bar area,
dining room, and so forth. From there, the flow of how each area’s function
interacts with the others dictates traffic patterns.
how do you incorporate the client’s personality into the physical
facade of a building?
It’s different for everyone, but basically I take a characteristic of their
personality and reflect it into the design. For example, with a bubbly
personality, I focus on happy colors. Since Chef Burke is very whimsical,
I tried to incorporate elements that had a lot of curves and spaces within
a space so that every corner you turn presents something different or
unexpected. David Burke’s cuisine is like that—full of surprises.
are you personally inspired by chef Burke’s cuisine while
designing?
Constantly! I love his food and his art of presentation. From the uniqueness
of his Burke in the Box packaging and the patterns and colors he uses to the
way he plates the food and presents his lollipops—it all gave me form and
ideas for design. An example of using curvy spaces is the wavy ceiling in the
dining room.
what is specific to chef Burke’s signature style in Burke Prime?
We took his salt blocks and incorporated them into a column surround that is backlit so they glow. The salt blocks are also used in the aging room in the kitchen. There is a centerpiece of glass rods, created by Michael Ayoub, who has contributed glass sculptures in some of David Burke’s other restaurants. And then to complement that style and play off the gaucho feel, I designed glass drops over the bar that are a loose interpretation of boleadoras, the equivalent of a cowboy lasso. All the furniture was custom designed.
what is unexpected?
We implemented a new style of seating in the dining room: a combination of sofas with dining seating. And then there’s the 35-foot wine tower that houses 7,000 bottles of wine.
thirty-five feet? how does that work within the Burke Prime space?
It actually spans two levels of the casino since the ceilings are only 14 feet high. It crashes through the casino floor all the way up to the ceiling. It was part of a master concept we developed for Foxwoods. The tower is a metal enclosure that blends seamlessly with the steakhouse, done in warm earth tones and copper and lots of fiery red, which is what Chef Burke likes.
how do you think the aesthetics of Burke Prime enhance the
dining experience?
More than ever, people go out regardless of a special occasion; they just want to try something new, and Chef Burke’s cuisine is nothing short of an experience in its own right. I didn’t want to take away from that but tried to make the restaurant itself an experience as well. The key element is that the space itself is broken up into little areas so that you can constantly experience something different as you walk around. It could be as simple as a change in the seating arrangements or color scheme—all white chairs then brown leather. That way, just as you get a choice from a menu, every time you go to Burke Prime you’ll leave with a different impression from your visit.
2008 • davidburke6 2008 • davidburke
it’s hard to miss: a tower of burnished copper that rises out of the ground to greet guests as they approach David Burke Prime from the mezzanine level of the hotel.
es, it’s a huge attention getter,” admits General Manager Curtis Johnson; but it’s only one of several attractive elements about the
dining experience here, with menu selection topping the list. Now this monolithic metal octagonal cylinder, encased in glass, laced with
ladders, and boasting a selection of 7,000 bottles, brings to the table a wine experience like no other.
While the collection touches on every wine region, as an American steakhouse, David Burke Prime highlights cult American cabernets and meritages. “Chef Burke was very instrumental in setting up this wine list,” explains Johnson, “and while it is comprehensive, we focus on wines that complement the meals, and that means a lot of great California reds.”
Curtis Johnson knows a thing or two about steakhouses, with a career in restaurant operations that includes a ten-year span at the iconic steakhouse company Chart House. New to the David Burke family, he’s excited about the promise D.B. Prime is already showing.
“The restaurant is really beautiful—not just the wine tower, but the aesthetics inside, from the glass details to the salt bricks. The entire space is a conversation piece from start to finish.” But the wine tower is the show stopper. “It’s definitely the focal point of the place,” adds Johnson. “People are always asking to see inside.”
Humidity controlled with a temperature set between 58 and 60 degrees, the atmosphere is cool but pleasant. No wonder there are plans to offer seating up to four inside the tower for the ultimate dining experience. Until then, enjoy the view from the outside, with a bottle plucked from its gleaming shelving.
OrOgeny VineyarD | 240 gateway rOaD west | napa, Ca 94558 | 877.254.4250
chateau #2.indd 1 11/21/08 5:18:35 PM
8
visit www.peronafarms.com for more information
Classic cocktails are making a big comeback, largelybecause bartenders – now known as mixologists – havefound delicious new ways to serve up old favorites. Takethe historic Manhattan for instance. In addition to itswidely-debated origin -- some believe it was created for agrand party in New York hosted by descendants of royalty-- its definition is often debated as well. No matter,because it has evolved into an array of full flavored,creative drinks being discovered by a whole new generation.
There is one truth that stands above the fray; the bestingredients make the best cocktails. Full flavored drinksdemand a balanced and complex bourbon – andWoodford Reserve fits the bill. Now the experts maywrite about its “faint aromas of apricot and brown sugar”or its “hints of woody vanilla-tinged spice,” which is allwell and good. But what’s most important is that yousimply enjoy your Manhattan, or your classic cocktail, oryour own unique take on mixology!
Please enjoy Woodford Reserve responsibly.www.woodfordreserve.com
Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight BourbonWhiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery,Versailles, KY © 2008.
Timeless cocktails made modern with Woodford Reserve,gold medal winner of the world’s three most prestigioustasting competitions.
The Woodford Manhattan
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. sweet vermouth1 dash Angostura® bitters1 dash Peychaud’s® bittersSplash of cherry juice
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well.Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a bourbon-infused cherry.
The Woodford Mediterranean ManhattanA drink this flavorful calls for acomplex bourbon - WoodfordReserve.
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. Tuaca® liqueur1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice1/2 oz. simple syrup*
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon.* Simple syrup: boil equal parts water and sugar untilsugar dissolves.
The Woodford French ManhattanWoodford Reserve adds balance to this delicious, refreshingconcoction.
2 oz. Woodford Reserve®
1 oz. Chambord®
Dash of bitters
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry.
Woodford Reserve: T he Art of Classic Cocktail s
WRDrinks08AdvFinal.qxd:Layout 1 2/29/08 2:05 PM Page 1
2008 • davidburke 9
with the highly successful David Burke Las vegas in the venetian, and the october opening of a Burke in the Box
at terminal D in the Las vegas airport, chef David Burke has plenty of reasons to visit sin city.
“Given the choices, dining in Las Vegas is a very unique experience, and
so it was very important for us at David Burke Las Vegas to understand
not only who our customers are but also make sure the menu registered
with them,” he explains. the result is a delicate balance of David Burke
signature dishes and more traditional combinations, catering to the
discerning palate of the Las vegas diner.
with chef todd stein in the kitchen and general manager marisa scarpulla
at the dining-room helm, chef Burke gets a little downtime during his visits
to have some fun too. “I like to go to shows—I’ve seen Jersey Boys there a
couple of times! I’m not much of a nightclub guy, but I enjoy dining out
and doing my fair share of shopping as well.”
some of his favorite places to dine include Bartolotta at the wynn, michael
mina and yellowtail at the Bellagio, and Bouchon at the venetian.
what happens in
2008 • davidburke10
or a while, Las Vegas was focusing on a very different clientele: families. Room rates were inexpensive and hotels like Circus Circus and Excalibur
were the big draw,” explains Scarpulla. “But then in 1982, Wolfgang Puck recognized an opportunity in Sin City that many other chefs didn’t,
prompting him to open up Spago in The Forum Shops at Caesars.” As hotels shifted their focus to customers who would spend money, morphing into luxury destinations, there became an understanding that the restaurants inside them could actually make money instead of simply providing food. “Las Vegas used to be about gaming; now it’s equally about gaming and dining.”
Today, as the entertainment capital of the world, Las Vegas lures not only world-class entertainers into their venues but also top chefs into their kitchens. And while the all-you-can-eat mentality has given way to fine dining, the experience of eating in these restaurants is still a treatment in Vegas excess: terrific food, an over-the-top presentation, and amazing service, all in a fabulous atmosphere.
“When people come to Vegas, they expect a total experience—they want the
whole package,” admits Scarpulla, “and everyone has to compete that way.
Hotels and restaurants have been successful in creating a theme and following it
all the way through.” She points out that most chefs take a look at what they
have done before in their other locations and then take that to a new level
in Las Vegas. “For example, dining at David Burke in New York is a completely
different experience. There, the space is smaller and cozy like a townhouse, while
here it’s at least twice the size, big and open. The glass sculpture and rows of tiny
metal Humpty Dumptys that line the bar are dwarfed here by the glass waterfall
in the center of the room and the life-size statue that sits on a swing in the front.”
It’s all part of the showmanship of having a restaurant in Vegas: “We have
people taking photos with that Humpty all day long!”
But in the end, David Burke Las Vegas comes down to the food and the
dining experience. “Chef Burke’s whimsical presentations really wow people
over,” she explains, adding “and Chef Stein puts just the right spin on signature
dishes. We have a lot of guests who originally came in because they love dining
at Chef Burke’s other restaurants, and then they tell us they hit the jackpot here
because of the food, the experience, and the fun.” Viva Las Vegas!
marisa scarpulla knows Las vegas. she was born and raised there. she witnessed the culinary landscape of the
city change as dramatically as the skyline on the strip. she watched as chefs opened restaurants in stylish four-
star-plus hotels, replacing iconic buffets in landmark hotels.
MOUNT CHARLESTON is 35 miles from Las vegas and about 20 to 30 degrees cooler, with an elevation of almost 12,000 feet at its peak—perfect for picnicking, hiking, and horseback riding in the summer and skiing in the winter. Plus, it’s right next to RED ROCK CANYON, arguably one of the prettiest spots in all of
insider’s guide to Las vegas
nevada! you can pet and feed the wild burros that roam free around there. and while you’re in the area, check out BONNIE SPRINGS, a replica of an 1880s mining town complete with a cowboy show.
on the opposite side, outside of town about 30 miles, sits LAKE MEAD, the largest man-made lake and reservoir in the world—great
for boating, fishing, water skiing, and swimming, and dinner cruises in the evening.
in the mood for a little Las vegas nostalgia? history buffs take note! head to the BONEYARD: a three-acre site that houses some of Las vegas’s most famous, now-defunct signs—like the mint and the silver slipper, even the big cowboy that used to wave down on freemont street —dating from the 1940s on. an official museum is in the works. you can view the signs by appointment only. go to www.neonmuseum.org.
Lastly, take a trip to LAKE LAS VEGAS, located in henderson, again about 20 minutes from town. it’s another man-made lake on the way to Lake mead, this time nestled between some luxury resorts like the ritz-carlton and the Loews. you can stroll through a little shopping and dining area and feel as if you’re in your own world outside of Las vegas. great for brunch, wine walks, fairs, boat cruises, and even gondola rides—it’s amazing!
a true Las vegas native, outside of business hours marisa scarpulla steers clear of the strip and heads for the hills—literally. here are a few of her favorite recommendations to get a glimpse of the other side of Las vegas.
a Local ace
2008 • davidburke
2008 • davidburke 11
“go west, young chef” is what todd stein was told years ago. he recently heeded that advice, but not before
cutting his chops in some great restaurants across the midwest: gordon and mk in chicago, Piccolo mondo, sans
souci, and vivo in cleveland. finally landing in Las vegas, the culture shock was immediate. walking through a
casino every day to get to work, surrounded by all the bells and whistles, was daunting at first, but he was quickly
embraced by the staff at David Burke Las vegas and soon felt right at home.
“The great thing about the
restaurant business is that since
it’s such a tight-knit community,
knowing one or two people in
a city really opens the doors to
meeting a tremendous amount of
others, which is what happened
to me here in Las Vegas…”
small-world case in point: his
own relationship with chef David
Burke. they met many years ago
in chicago. stein was at gordon’s,
and Burke was there opening Park
ave café. they became friends.
“I was going to culinary school
at the same time and about to
head to Europe for a couple of
weeks with my class,” explains
stein. “David actually hooked
me up with a job in Paris for six
months at the same bakery he
had worked with (Moulin de La
Vierge), which was an amazing
experience.” after that, they
stayed in touch, crossing paths
what we try to do here at David
Burke Las Vegas.”
he gets excited about the food,
describing a summer salad with
peaches, shaved fennel and
proscuitto, and “the most amazing
ricotta ever!” with pride and
gusto, and a Durade flanked with
basil-and-goat-cheese dumplings
and slightly warm peeled heirloom
tomatoes as “simple and looking
very cool on the plate.” his
theory is easy enough: take great
ingredients at their peak and
highlight them simply. But how
do you do that in a city where a
change in seasons is indicated by
only the slightest fluctuation in
temperature?
regardless of weather, they try to
go the route of being seasonal.
“There are many things here
you can eat all year round,
but that’s not the point. In the
winter, when it’s 80 degrees out,
occasionally and discussing
working together. that came to
fruition last september when stein
joined David Burke Las vegas.
his culinary vision has been
described as “sophisticated yet
approachable.” at David Burke Las
vegas, stein puts his own unique
spin on specials while highlighting
Burke’s signature dishes—easy to do
as their styles are so complementary.
he was brought up on a classical
style of cooking; molecular
gastronomy didn’t exist at the
time. “It was all about ingredients
and treating them the way they
should be, making things taste
right using classical French and
Italian techniques. That’s David’s
background as well—and if you take
that and add the childish whim,
you get some really fun stuff. I have
always felt that if you can bring
someone back to their childhood
with a plate of food, then you hit
a home run every time, and that’s
it might be hard to braise lamb
shanks, but people still eat that
way.” Just as local retailers stock sweaters for the fall even though it might seem absurd, chef stein is keenly mindful that not all his diners live in town; many come to him with seasons of where they live on their minds.
although David Burke Las vegas does get its fair share of locals—usually a mix of foodies and chef-type diners—the bulk of their guests comprise David Burke fans, conventioneers, and tourists from the world over. “It’s
crazy, but at the end of the day,
it reminds me of cooking in the
Midwest,” remarks stein. “We
have a portion of adventurous
diners, guests who want to eat
steak, and others who want to
eat simply good food, and if you
can provide for all three groups
in one environment, then you can
do very well—and I think we do
that wonderfully here!”
chef todd stein: cooking on the strip
Rare Vintages & Cellar Box
With the Rare Vintage collection Veuve Clicquot resurrects two treasured wines from the harvests of 1985 and 1988. Disgorged in 2005, these exceptional champagnes are made from the best Grands and Premiers Crus from years that produced wines with truly excep-tional aging potential.
The Rare Vintages come wrapped in the Pablo Reinoso-designed Cellar Box, a high tech case that embodies modern design while preserving the wines in the best possible conditions. Stackable and reusable.
Wine Spectator 95 - Rare Vintage 1988 Wine Spectator 94 - Rare Vintage Rose 1985
www.veuve-clicquot.com So Clicquot, So Responsible. Champagne c 2008 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York. NY.
2002 VintageVeuve Clicquot brings excitement to vintage champagne with the introduction of new gift boxes for both Blanc and Rosé. Instantly recognizable by their Veuve Clicquot “yellow” color, the new gift boxes contain the 2002 vintage and are the perfect gift for celebrat-ing the Holidays.
The 2002 Vintage Blanc is fresh and light on the palette, while boasting a long and aromatic finish. The 2002 Vintage Rosé reveals beautiful pink and salmon hues and is characterized by fruity, spicy flavors.
HauteLife_Holiday.indd 1 11/7/08 6:40:52 PM
2008 • davidburke 13
in america, culinary historians think that doughnuts are almost as old as the country itself. no matter what you hear about the latest, greatest doughnut—whether from a chain or a local bakery—i guarantee you that it is nothing like one fresh from your own kitchen.
when making doughnuts, place about a half cup of cinnamon-scented sugar in a small pan in the oven. this will fill the house with a wonderful sweet-spicy smell that will let everyone know that you are in the kitchen working your magic. this is an old baker’s trick to lure customers into the shop. it still works.
— chef David Burke
ingreDients:
1 lb ricotta cheese (works best with whole-milk ricotta)
½ cup sugar
6 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp salt
2½ cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
methoD:
1. whisk ricotta, sugar, eggs, vanilla, and salt together in a large mixing bowl.
2. sift together the all-purpose flour and baking powder. fold into the wet mixture. refrigerate overnight.
3. scoop with a ½-oz scooper (or melon baller) into small 1-inch balls. Deep fry at 350 degrees.
2008 • davidburke
2008 • davidburke14
TRACEABILITY
“Location, location, location!” Bob Mark of Buckhead Beef explains emphatically when asked what criteria he looks for in first selecting the cattle ranches he works with. “When you open a restaurant, it’s all
about location, and we feel the same way about our animals.” Traceability is paramount when it comes to working with farmers. “After we make
sure the farmer has total traceability, then we move to the ‘where’ factor.” The colder the climate, the more internal fat steers put on. “With this in
mind, we concentrate on cattle from the Midwest, fed on corn, because we also
believe in the old adage ‘what you feed an animal is what they become.’ ”
Mark also has a hands-on approach with the ranchers that makes everyone feel like part of the family. “I visit the ranches about six times a year for two
reasons: one is to make sure standards are being met, and the other is to
maintain relationships—making sure everyone is happy.”
PORTION CONTROL
While the business of farming has evolved, perhaps one of the most important ways the industry has changed is in how technology sets the tone for new businesses practices, especially in the way of portion control. The implementation of portion control has been extremely positive for restaurants and chefs. “It’s old-world butchery meets new-
world technology,” Mark explains. State-of-the-art machines are able to produce same-size, custom-specific cuts, trimming the beef to tolerances within half an ounce. The benefits are overwhelming: portion control makes the kitchen’s job easier and more efficient. For any given cut, all portions are the exact same size, shape, and weight, and there is more precision in cooking time and temperatures. There is no waste, as every ounce of meat is served and the prep staff doesn’t have to do any trimming or boning—it’s all been done by highly skilled cutters that prepare the portion-ready meats. There is great economic efficiency in portion control at the restaurant. With the elimination of waste and the reduction of time, equipment, and labor necessary to prepare portions, the immediate result is a lower cost per serving.
With the business of meat grounded in responsible farming, modern technology, and solid chef relationships, like the one with David Burke, Buckhead keeps in step with a changing industry whose improvements have a direct result on our plates and our palates.
chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
as much as Burke loves being on the farm (he’s been known to chase an ostrich or two!), his focus is in
the kitchen. selecting the right purveyors becomes even more important. Burke has recently entrusted
Buckhead Beef to provide the meats at all of his restaurants, and you could say they really know how take
the bull by the horns.
reflections from the pasture
with portion control cooking time and temperature are always consistent,
which leads to an efficiently run kitchen and a satisfied diner.
2008 • davidburke
2008 • davidburke 15
as passionate about his snacks as he is about his haute cuisine, when chef David Burke settles in for a day of sports in front of the tv, he doesn’t just run to the corner store to grab a bag of munchies. instead, he makes a trip to the local farmer’s market to pick up fresh produce that he turns into his own homemade veggie chips. whatever is in season, Burke slices, dices, and throws into the fryer, turning almost any vegetable into a basket of snacks. the prep work is simple and the cooking is fast, so you won’t even miss the first quarter.
carrot chestnut Pumpkin sweet Potato ingreDients:
2 large carrots
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
ingreDients:
1 lb chestnuts
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
ingreDients:
1 miniature pumpkin
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
ingreDients:
3 large sweet potatoes
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
methoD:
1. using a vegetable peeler, scrape carrots. continuing with the peeler, cut carrots into ribbons or strands until the core is reached and discard core.
2. heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees.
3. Place carrot chips in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp.
4. using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. salt to taste.
methoD:
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. cut a cross in each chestnut and place chestnuts on a baking sheet. Bake chestnuts for 10 minutes, or until shells open slightly. remove from oven and allow to cool until they can be handled easily.
3. Peel chestnuts and slice carefully. Do not try to make the slices too thin or the chestnuts will crumble.
4. toss chestnuts in flour.
5. heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees.
6. Place chestnuts in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp.
7. using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. salt to taste.
methoD:
1. cut top off pumpkin; remove and discard all seeds. carefully cut pulp from pumpkin and thinly slice.
2. heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees.
3. Place pumpkin slices in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp.
4. using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. salt to taste.
methoD:
1. Peel sweet potatoes and thinly slice.
2. heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees.
3. Place sweet-potato slices in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp.
4. using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. salt to taste.
game on:
recipes from Cooking With David Burke, alfred a. knopf, new york.
2008 • davidburke
hoPs: the souL of samueL aDams Beersfor centuries, people have casually referred to beer as “liquid bread.” it’s great shorthand, because both require grain, water, and yeast. But the key ingredient in beer that’s missing in bread is hops, and hops is the soul of beer. it’s fair to say that the story of the hop is the key to the history of Jim koch’s samuel adams Boston Lager.
a climbing plant, hops are trellised and reach heights in excess of 20 feet that seem to come to life as they catch the wind and loom over the fields. the flowers of the hop plant contain lupulin, which holds the intense spicy “hoppiness” that we have come to associate with flavorful beer.
in 1984, Jim koch’s father brought the family beer recipes down from his attic and showed Jim his favorite. it called for two rare german hops: hallertau mittelfrueh and tettnang tettnanger, both grown exclusively in Bavaria.
some years after Jim koch began brewing his beer, he learned that the hallertau mittelfrueh and tettnang hops he needed had become extremely rare. the world supply of hallertau hops had dwindled to less than 400 acres. that’s just half the size of new york’s central Park. what Jim koch didn’t know was that by 2008, thanks to the efforts of samuel adams brewers and the popularity of samuel adams Boston Lager, those 400 acres of hallertau hops would grow to more than 4,000 acres.
in 1987 Jim began a tradition that continues to this day. every year at the conclusion of the harvest, Jim and other samuel adams brewers travel to Bavaria to hand select the hops for the coming year. the long days include discussions about the year’s crop; visits to various farms and fields; and full days spent with hop suppliers selecting hops as they arrive from various farms. the business of the day traditionally concludes with a festive, home-cooked meal and raised steins—a well-deserved beer among friends who share a common passion.
chips and beer au natural
New York New York Rumson, NJ Chicago Las Vegas Connecticut New York
135 E62nd Street; NYC 10065t (212) 754-1300,
www.fishtaildb.comwww.davidburke.com
Join us at our newest restaurant!
Offering:· Sustainable Fish·Delicious Seafood·Late Night Dining·Classic Oyster Bar·Creative Cocktails·Private Dining Rooms·Patio Dining·And more!
2008 • davidburke 17
randy Lewis doesn’t do anything slowly. for over 20 years, randy was a car-racing professional, finishing as high
as 13th position at the indy 500. in his second professional career, randy burst onto the wine scene by producing
some of napa valley’s most sought after wines, Lewis cellars.
200 mPh to 10 months
in the Bottle
“I developed my passion for wine while racing Formula 3 cars in Europe. The local wines and food I tried captivated me, and the lifestyle lured me into the world of wine.”
After returning to the United States, Randy continued to race Indy and Formula 5000 cars. Five Indy 500s later, he moved on to his second passion, winemaking. Naturally, Randy took to winemaking like a Ferrari filled with rocket fuel, enlisting the iconic California winemaker Helen Turley as his mentor and teacher.
“I learned how important hillside vineyards are—that proper drainage and low-vigor rootstock are also key factors in producing the type of grapes we now like to use for our wines at Lewis Cellars.”
Randy’s venture in making wines has been anything but slow. His hard work and hands-on approach has catapulted him into the “gotta have” category among serious California wine collectors and drinkers.
“We try to make our wines the way we like to drink them: big, extracted, fruit-driven wines that are both complex and enjoyable to drink with all types of food. Debbie [Randy’s wife and partner at Lewis Cellars] and I collect wines from northern and southern Rhône, as well as white Burgundies. We try to create wines like those we enjoy drinking.” It’s apparent that the Lewises have achieved their mission, and created world-class wines while doing so. Wine Spectator magazine has anointed them one of Napa’s most collectable wineries.
“Every case and bottle we are able to get our hands on sells out as soon as we can place the wines on the shelf. People are looking for Lewis wines all year around, not just when they release the next vintage,” says Andrew Klugerman, owner of Manhattan’s premier wineshop, K&D Wines. “People hardly ever ask how much when I offer them a Lewis wine that’s not on the list. They are excited enough just to be offered one,” adds Ed Chan, wine director at Quality Meats, one of New York’s finest steak houses.
By Jonathan Sloan
2008 • davidburke18
With his larger-than-life personality and enthusiastic presence, Randy is a man that surely portrays his image through his wine. Lewis wines have been described as “big,” “ripe, rich, and multi-dimensional,” “smooth and balanced,” and, of course, “racy.” Randy takes all the reviews in stride. “A handful of people remember who got 13th in the Indy, but everyone knows when you get a 98 from Wine Spectator.”
Lewis Cellars is always buzzing with excitement. The converted two-story home is now replete with filled wine barrels in temperature-controlled rooms, and winery assistants moving pumps and tanks around. There’s never nothing to do at the winery; people are always cleaning something,
racking something, or tasting something. With 18 vintages of Lewis Cellars under his belt, Randy can proudly look back on his legacy, and can only guess how many thousands of people have smiled with satisfaction after drinking a glass of Lewis Cellars wines. When asked to reflect on that fact, Randy thinks hard for a moment and looks at Debbie; his infectious laugh lingers, then his big, bright smile shows how much he realizes he’s truly blessed to be able to make a living by selling the wine he produces.
“It’s not always about the money you make; it’s more often about the friends you meet along the journey in the wine business that make it all worthwhile,” Randy explains, then he raised his glass toward us.
ripe, rich, and multi-dimensional
2008 • davidburke
new name, same PLace: effective January 1, 2009, David Burke & Donatella will change its name to David Burke townhouse.
20
Lotto Luck1.5 oz vanilla vodka
1.5 oz coole swan Liqueur
1 tsp. powdered malted chocolate
.5 oz godiva milk chocolate Liqueur
mix all ingredients in martini shaker, shake well, serve straight up in chilled martini glass, and garnish with a malted chocolate ball.
winter’s BountycaBBage: what’s better than a hearty soup on a frosty winter day?
cabbage makes great soup. i used to throw it in a “potage garbure”: a
soup from the southwest of france made with white beans and bacon
and the occasional duck
leg. thick and very
satisfying!
ParsniPs:
Parsnips are very
versatile—slice
them thinly and
fry them up into
chips, dice them
like croutons, or puree
them to perfection. they
have a great fresh minty edge
to them.
cleaning up your thanksgiving act…when i worked in norway
years ago, i caught
a salmon that was
just too big to poach,
so i steamed it in a
dishwasher and it came
out perfectly moist. this
year i experimented
with a turkey, and it
was delicious! all i did
afterward was brown it
under the broiler for a
few minutes. no mess, no
smell, just great-tasting
turkey. i even steamed the stuffing and bags of spinach that way. for
details on cooking times and tips, check out the article that ran in the
New York Post online.
rattle those pots and pans… on a recent business trip to Paris, i stopped at a few legendary
kitchenware havens, including e. Dehillerin, to pick out serving pieces for fishtail. while stateside, i will debut my own
line of pots and pans on qvc in January. stay tuned for more details.
william shear photography
coole swan is created from the highest-quality natural ingredients:
fresh double cream from ireland’s richest dairylands; the softest, most
rounded single malt irish whiskey; real melted chocolate; rich, dark,
bittersweet cocoa from the côte d’ivoire; and delicate
infusions of the finest madagascan bourbon vanilla.
the initial impact of cold, fresh, creamy chocolate
gently melts in the mouth to reveal a luscious, smooth,
bittersweet balance of the rich, dark cocoa and the
delicate vanilla, while a clean finish enables the warmth
of the whiskey to linger.
it’s been a busy year, and vegas
would be fun, but i think i’ll start
off the evening in the city and
eventually head over to rumson
and celebrate with good friends
and family. there’s a special
double magnum of cristal sitting
in my kitchen reserved just for the
occasion!
uncorking 2009
Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 by ten friends united in the belief that classic European vines could survive the harsh Washington winters and that fine wine could be made in Washington State.
Columbia Winery produces award winning Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as exceptional Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. We also offer highly-acclaimed vineyard designated wines from long-established vineyards including Otis, Wyckoff and the renowned Red Willow Vineyard.
“Masterful winesfrom
Washington State”
Taste the Washington difference.
2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com www.columbiawinery.com
CW AD David Burke.indd 1 11/11/08 11:24:54 AM
2008 • davidburke
HAUTEmixoLogy HAUTEtaste
HAUTEnoteworthy
david burke locations
Bloomingdale’s new york
foxwoods resort & casino connecticut
mccarran airport, terminal D Las vegas
burkeinthebox.com
133 east 61st street new york, ny 10021
tel 212.813.2121
davidburketownhouse.com
26 ridge road rumson, nJ 07760
tel 732.842.8088
fromagerierestaurant.com
616 north rush at ontario chicago, iL 60611
tel 312.660.6000
davidburke.com/primehouse
the venetian 3355 Las vegas Blvd s. Las vegas, nv 89109
tel 702.414.7111
davidburkelasvegas.net
foxwoods resort & casino route 2 mashantucket, ct 06338
tel 860.312.8753
davidburke.com
135 e 62nd street new york, ny 10065
tel 212.754.1300
fishtaildb.com
22
WOODFORD’S HOT CARAMEL-APPLE TODDY
1 gallon fresh apple cider
1 ½ cups woodford reserve
8 oz caramel sauce
6 cinnamon sticks
6 whole cloves
Directions:
combine ingredients in a crock pot
and mix thoroughly. heat on high
just until toddy is hot, then reduce
temperature to low. serve in a mug,
and garnish with a cinnamon stick or
apple wedge. enjoy!
TWELVE
Developed by world-class chefs,
twelve is a sophisticated culinary-
inspired, nonalcoholic beverage that
is a sparkling alternative to water
or iced tea. created with a base of
organic white, green, and black teas,
and a select mix of herbs, spices,
and citrus essence, twelve is not only
healthy and tasty on its own but also
a great complement with food. twelve
is available at select restaurants,
specialty food stores, and coming
soon to www.madetotaste.com.
CAROLINA COUNTRY HAM
Phillips Brothers in asheboro, north carolina, has been curing country hams since 1947. they still cure their hams the slow, old-fashioned way: hand
rubbing each fresh ham with a special curing mixture, placing them in a refrigerated curing room in oak bins for 45 days, and finally hanging them in the drying and aging room for 35 days or more, where they achieve their old-time southern flavor. we like it best on a morning biscuit, especially with red-eye gravy—ham-fat drippings mixed with black coffee—but it is also delectable on its own. visit www.phillipsbrotherscountryhams.com.
MADE TO TASTE.COM
madetotaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers
a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products.
imagine shopping in a chef’s pantry for food products, kitchen
tools and accessories, and cookbooks! madetotaste.com also
features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and
cocktail pairings.
Publisher Michael GoldMan
editor-in-chief PaMela Jouan
design director Jana Potashnik BaiRdesign, inc.
Managing editor chRistian kaPPneR
assistant editor stePhane henRion
senior copy editor kelly suzan waGGoneR
contributing writers PaMela Jouan Jonathan sloan
Photo director chaRles haRRis
Photography shannon o’haRa – doughnuts williaM sheaR – dishwasher turkey
advertising inquiries 718.858.1187
hautelife Press a division of c-Bon Media, llc. 321 dean street suite 1 Brooklyn, ny 11217
www.hautelifepress.com [email protected]
subscription inquiries 718.858.1187 [email protected] or visit www.hautelifepress.com
hautelife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.
Printed and bound in the u.s.a.
© 2008 all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.
Hautenotes From the publisher, haute notes is about the discovery of all things innovative
and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.
19fall 2007 • davidburke
At FIJI Water our mission has always been to bring you the finest, best-tasting water
on earth. To ensure this for years to come, we’re going “carbon negative.” Which means
reducing CO2 emissions across all of our products. Changing 50% of our bottling
facility’s energy to renewable sources by 2010. And partnering with Conservation
International to help save the largest rainforest in Fiji. Making FIJI Water the first
carbon-negative product in our industry. And perhaps the most positive for the world.
© 2008 FIJI Water Company LLC. All rights reserved. fijigreen.com
Carbon negative.Globally positive.
FW8814_HauteLifeAd_CarNeg_f.qxd 4/10/08 11:07 AM Page 1
FOLD
ER D
ATE
BU
YER
PLEA
SE IN
ITIAL
39
.3 p
rc
HO
ME
PLEA
SE IN
ITIAL
PR
OO
F NU
MB
ER
PR
OO
F NU
MB
ER
1
105771
#Publication David Burke m
ag
Run Date 09.15.08
Ad Size Full PG
Merch df-david burke
Creative DirectorA
udrey Nizen x7887
Assoc. Creative DirectorP
HY
LLIS C
OX x7686
Art Director
Jr. Art DirectorO
LGA
BIR
MIN
GH
AM
x7697
Copy DirectorD
ON
CA
RR
OLL x7668
Copywritter
AM
AN
DA
PR
ISC
HA
K x7719
ProofreaderP
ETE x7704
Production DirectorG
AR
Y A
LTER X7651
Traf c Manager
PATRIC
IA C
UR
TIS X7847
1
FRA
NK
BER
MA
N X7633
This fall, we’re showcasing the best new trends from today’s
most exciting designers.
Mitchell Gold + Bob WilliamsBarbara BarryDonna KaranCalvin Klein
Ralph LaurenNatori
Michael AramWilliam YeowardMonique Lhuillier
bloomingdales.com