CUIR A PARIS Press kit sept.13

PRESS KIT SEPT. 2013

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PRESSKIT

exHIBITORs, fORums, evenTs, TRenDs

PRess COnTaCT Juliette SeBille

[email protected]

AW 14/15TRenDs aw 14/15 © AgeNce polYpHÈme fORum InCuBe © rFBg coNSeilTRansLaTIOn © lANgueDoc trANSlAtioN

3–

4 THE SHOW4 THE SHOW5 tHe SHoW iN FigureS6 NeW exHiBitorS

9 FASHION9 TRENdS AW 14/1510 rAW mAteriAl11 p liKe13 B liKe15 c liKe17 Y liKe18 colour rANge

19 EvENTS 20 INcubE 21 tHe iNNoVAtioNS

23 INTÉRIEuRS cuIR24 exHiBitioN

25 bESPOKE26 Atelier mArDiNi27 eKceli28 mANuFActure JeAN rouSSeAu29 cABAlZAr

30 Au-dELÀ du cuIR31 tHe DeSigNerS

32 cRAFT THE LEATHER33 tHe competitioN

cONTENT

THESHOW

THE SHOW P.4 > P.8

THE SHOW

5THE FIGuRES

THE SHOW

THE SHOWIN FIGuRES

bREAKdOWN % bY cOuNTRY

THe TOP THRee52% Italy | 16% France | 10% Spain

14% OTHeR euROPean COunTRIesTurkey, Portugal, Germany, England, Netherlands, Switzerland, Belgium, Iceland, Denmark

8% OTHeR InTeRnaTIOnaL COunTRIesBrazil, Pakistan, Thailand, United States, South Africa, India, China, Singapore, New Zealand, South Korea, Tunisia

bREAKdOWN % bY SEcTOR

60 Finished Leathers7 Textiles and Synthetics6 Exotic Leathers6 Furs6 Components5 Leather Garments4% Services, Press, Associations3% Raw hides and Skins3% Chemicals

449 ExHIbITORS46 NeW+ 8,5%SEPT.12

6

THE SHOW

NEW ExHIbITORS

NEWExHIbITORSBOY DeRI KOnfeKsIYOn WWW.BoNipelle.com TuRKeY I38

Casa De COuROs ROmeu WWW.romeucouroS.com.Br BRaZIL d1

COnCeRIa asTORIa – ITaLY H55

COnCeRIa CeRBIaTTO WWW.coNceriAcerBiAtto.it ITaLY H64

COnCeRIa Da.ma.PeL – ITaLY b39

COnCeRIa IL POnTe – ITaLY I58

COnCeRIa maRTInI PIO WWW.mArtiNipio.it ITaLY H4

COnCeRIa masInI – ITaLY A44

COnCeRIa mOHaI WWW.coNceriAmoHAi.com ITaLY E18

COnCeRIa vIGnOLa WWW.coNceriAVigNolA.it ITaLY H75

CuRTIDOs CasTaNeR – sPaIGn A55

CuRTIDOs LaJaRa WWW.curtiDoSlAJArA.com sPaIGn E30

CuRTumes BOavenTuRa WWW.BoAVeNturA.pt PORTuGaL H33

CuRTumes RODRIGues – PORTuGaL G32

D.L.G. – ITaLY I80

faRIDa PRIme TanneRY WWW.FAriDAtANNerY.com InDIa c13

GIanCaRLO CaPOnI – ITaLY c31

HaesunG aIDa WWW.HSAiDA.com KORea I34

HanGZHOu KeRun mICROfIBeR WWW.KreNA.cN CHIna A41

InDusTRIa De PeLes mInuanO WWW.peleSmiNuANo.com.Br BRaZIL d5

ITaLReTTILI WWW.itAlrettili.com ITaLY b42

KeOPeLL – ITaLY A34

KROmaTICa QuImICOs WWW.KromAticA.com.Br BRaZIL c5

LIDeRKOLL WWW.liDerKoll.com.Br BRaZIL c3-d4

nuOva anTILOPe – ITaLY H78

PROnTO PeLLI WWW.proNtopelli.it ITaLY H73

RamIRO OLIveIRa & fILHOs WWW.rAmiro.pt PORTuGaL I37

sCHmeCHeL WWW.ScHmecHelDoBrASil.com.Br BRaZIL d3bIS

seLIna KuRK & DeRI WWW.SeliNAleAtHer.com TuRKeY c11

sIDDIQ LeaTHeR – PaKIsTan A40

sTeaD CHaRLes WWW.cFSteAD.com enGLanD F47

uCD (usaK CevaHIR DeRI) WWW.uSAKceVAHirDeri.com TuRKeY I64

vIDaL BOsCH WWW.ViDAlBoScH.com sPaIGn b35

YaTeKs YaKuT TaRIm WWW.YAteKS.com.tr TuRKeY J9

LEATHER

7NEW ExHIbITORS

THE SHOW

aTLanTa COmPOnenTes PaRa CaLCaDO WWW.AtlANtAStepS.com PORTuGaL c27

Da.mI. WWW.DAmi.it ITaLY c29

IPs & mODeRnO suOLe ITaLY A32

ITaLsfORm WWW.itAlSForm.it ITaLY b34

maLasPIna WWW.mAlASpiNA.it ITaLY I39

TaCCHIfICIO mOnTI WWW.tAccHiFiciomoNti.com ITaLY b36

TeCnIHORma WWW.tecNiHormA.eS sPaIGn c33bis

cOMPONENT

BeauLIeu BOÉTIe WWW.roBert-BeAulieu.Fr fRanCe J20

FuR

amOTex InTeRnaTIOnaL WWW.Amotex.De GeRmanY c21

TExTILE FOR AccESSORY

sTaHL WWW.StAHl.com neTHeRLanDs J12

sTamP fOIL WWW.StAmpFoil.com ITaLY c30

TeCnOCHImICa WWW.tecNocHimicA.eu ITaLY A26

cHEMIcAL PROducT

8 NEW ExHIbITORS

THE SHOW

coNceriA VigNolA curtiDoS lAJArA

AtlANtA Step tecNocHimicA

StAmp Foil

curtumeS BoAVeNturA KeruN

BeAulieu BoÉtieScHmecHel

ViDAl BoScH

T R EN dS

TRENdS P.9 > P.18

TRENdS

RAW MATERIAL

Pioneers, heading towards the immediate or very distant future, we will transform the 'Matière Première' to magnify it or divert it from its primary function.It becomes the object of unreasonable marriages, shady pairings, and improbable osmoses; between scratchy leather and downy wool, between the simple aluminium sheet and opulent nappa, between damp rubber and sumptuous Zibeline. Inspired by philosophers, for whom the Matière Première is an object, we take possession of the object 'Letter'. This allows us to transform the material 'Thought' into signs and thus into words.The letters of the alphabet will therefore guide us in our search for the 'Matières Premières' of Winter 14/15.

11P

TRENdS AW 14/15FASHION

LIKe PLume [feaTHeR]/ PLOmB [LeaD]

Light as a feather and heavy as lead, transparent as gauze, shadowy and deep like the current of a river. Feathers from a hen, from a chicken shed, from Music Hall beauties, the white feather of a cheat, a peacock’s feathers. Transparency andlightness, intangible femininity, couture glamour or symbolic rusticity.

COLOuR RanGeShadow blue, duvet white, cobble grey, mineral grey.

LIKe PIeRRe [sTOne]/Peau [sKIn]

Cold and translucent unfathomable stones, exceptional gems, frosty enamels.Skins as an indicator of age, smooth and velvety or wrinkled, with folds like a baby.

COLOuR RanGeFlesh pink, salmon skin, Lacquered green, mosaic blue.

LIKe PassIOn

Enchanting, intoxicating, exhausting, reds come in velvets, moiré taffetas, shiny satin and crispy nylons. Supple and thick leather yields under the hand like a soft cushion. Brocades and flock overlap, marvellous furs are lacerated, dramatised, in a trash-luxury style.

COLOuR RanGeIntoxicating red, raspberry red, elixir red, redcurrant, potion red.

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P LIKE PLumE [FEaThER]/ PLomB [LEad]

Consistency of pop corn, of candy floss.Featherweight nylon, Organza, wadding.Irregular perforations to lighten surfaces.Softened buffalo and nappa.Tender deer, soft fur.Aspects and textures are shiny, runny, slippery, changing.Reflection of puddles, of oil slicks.Holograms.Reflective mirrors.Shape memories.

P LIKE PIERRE [STonE]/PEau [SKIn]

Translucent grains, glass mount.Iridescent box, drawn goatskin.Volcanic stones, oxidised metals.Stained glass, enamels.Patchwork leathers.Changeable croco, iridescent reptile.Materials are protective, downy,foamy, enveloping.Rubbery textures, featherweight.Elastic, rubbery consistency.Very soft nappa.Velvety vegetable leather.Chunky wool knits, leather lined.Teddy fur, mohair, sheepskin, naïf designs.

P LIKE PaSSIon

Materials are seductive,luxurious and sensual.Smooth velvet, crushed velvet,worn velvet.Intricate leather lace.Kashmir Prints, worn Paisley prints.Rubbed jacquard.Satiny leather, crêpe de chine.Embroidery, Cordoba leather.Damaged chic furs.

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS

coNceriA gHepArDo - colortex - NoVA KAeru - texpiel - SeVimli Deri - rg Deri

BoDiN JoYeux- FeDerico AlBArello - StAmp Foil - B3S - FeDi SilVANo - propeAux

FeDerico AlBArello - pADoVAFurS - DercoSA - curtume NAtur - itAliAN coNVerter - cArAVel pelli

13b


LIKe BéTOn [COnCReTe]/BeauTY

Urbane, solid and timeless like concrete, fragile, ethereal, nuanced and sophisticated Like Beauty. Powdery, pearly, opaque and transparent, an intimate confrontation between delicacy and solidity.

COLOuR RanGePorcelain blue, iris pink, saurian grey blue, building-site grey.

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LIKe BOIs [wOOD]/BauxITe/BRICK

Construction materials. Honeycombed, cellular, in strata or in layers.Flamboyant, woody, lustrous, Materials of reflection.

COLOuR RanGeAlcohol brown, coral pink, tomette orange, russet red, Irish setter red.

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B LIKE BÉTon [concRETE]/BEauTy

Technological wizardry.Cut-outs into the heap.Thermo shaped, thermo welded,moulded.Cracked and split effects.Tarred surfaces.Barbour texture.Greyish denim.Oiled tarpaulins and splits.Make-up and delicate materials.Iridescence, mother of pearl,buffing, glazing.Baby calf, vitellino.Velvet and stretch suede.Pony-skin style veal.Light peccary.

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS

cetiNKAYA - ABip BY ruSSo Di cASSANDriNo - SouBAcH -teSSiturA Attilio imperiAli - rg Deri - Felice FerrArA

B LIKE BoIS [wood]/ BauxITE/BRIcK

Aspects are hollowed.Scratched, barked.Marked calfskin, cow, buffalo.Wild animals.Coppery surfaces.Eroded mineral surfaces.Regular or disrupted geometry.Perforations or cut-outs.Oiled box.AlpA - Felice FerrArA - curtume NAtur - BigAgli - curtume NAtur - coNceriA ri.pell -

curtume NAtur

15c


LIKe CaRDBOaRD/CeLLOPHane

The extreme matt finish of raw Cardboard and the magical sparkle of intangible Cellophane. Materials from recycling and creativity.

COLOuR RanGeFilm white, paper beige, chick yellow, vine shoot yellow.

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LIKe CuIR [LeaTHeR]/COCOa

A desire for glacé leather and steaming cocoa, of reassurance and gourmet delight,of deep colours and velvety or smooth surfaces.

COLOuR RanGeCappuccino brown, workwear blue, squirrel brown, ebony brown.

LIKe CanaILLe [RasCaL]

Summer in winter, topsy-turvy, poor and rich at the same time, elegant and kitsch, manual and artificial, a pop expression for our time, unfettered and facetious.

COLOuR RanGeIronmonger silver, lagoon turquoise, sequin green, gloss pink, varnish pink.

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c LIKE cuIR [LEaThER]/cocoa

Classic and timeless.Opulent longevity.Contrasting shines.

Glacé leathers, light varnishes.Oiled leathers, pull-up, spazzolato.Subtle caviar grains, textile prints,

tayloring motifs.Canvas, twill leathers.

Denim prints.Noble combinations:

Gabardine and leather-suede,cashmere-box...

Lamb and calf suede, nubuck.3D geometrics.

Ultrasound quilting.Technical, graphic pleats.

c LIKE canaILLE [RaScaL]

Wool flowers.Crackled varnish.

Stained furs.Exuberantly shaggy.

Offbeat animal prints.Scoubidous.

Cartoon prints glitters.Rumpled foil.

Messages and tags.Saucy wallpaper.Nursery florals.

SPIRIT OF MATERIALS

roBotti pelliccerie - ScHmecHel - WAlter regiNAlD - SiBel - NoVAlpiNA

c LIKE caRdBoaRd/cELLoPhanE

Moulded felt, thermal insulation, underlay.Aniline leather.

Protected vegetable leather.Composite leather.

Surfaces are nubucked like schoolblotting paper.

Quilted, padded leathers.Giant checks, oversized tartans,

rustic stripes.Airy materials.

Lively, inflated plastics.Washed, crumpled skins.Ultra-light stretch leather.

Iridescent, changing.Enchanting PVC.Slippery silicon.

Translucent parchment.Leathers like a spi sail, like a sheet

of tracing paper.

AriStoN - B.g. Di BiANcoNi AleSSANDro giANi giuliANo - mArmArA Deri - FrANce croco

BiglAgli - mArmArA Deri - gHepArDo - pADoVAFurS

17Y


LIKe YIn, LIKe YanG

Duality and complementarity.Looking for balance, between very light and very dark, between mystery and transparency, between shine and opacity, between simplicity and complexity.

COLOuR RanGeBlack philosopher’s stone, waxy yellow, paperback brown, officer blue.

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SPIRIT OF MATERIALSy LIKE yInLIKE yang

Noble and radical materials withnatural shine share the stage withrubbery matts.Textures are stiff, almost breakable.Controlled shines/extreme matt.Waxy and rubbery feel or silky touch.Classic grains.

itAliAN coNVerter - propeAux - curtume NAtur - FeDi SilVANo

18cOLOuR RANGE


cOLOuRS aw 14/15LIKE [PLuME]/[PLOMb]]

poNANt – 14-4110 TPx - 2708C BAYou – 15-4707 TPx - 5503C cAlQue - cAlQue iriSÉ HAKuSeKi – 19-4004 TPx - BLaCK C

LIKE [bÉTON]/[bEAuTÉ]

polYmÈre – 12-0710 TPx - 7506C BomBYx – 16-1707 TPx - 5005C cANSoN – 17-1316 TPx - 7530C leiBNiZ – 15-0730 TPx - 4515C

P

LIKE [PIERRE]/[PEAu]

pouDre – 16-1219 TPx - 7514C BourBoN – 18-1148 TPx - 4635C

cHocolAt – 19-1012 TPx - 439C

LIKE [bOIS]/bAuxITE/[bRIQuE]

plAiSir – 16-1429 TPx - 7522C

pÉriDot – 19-5413 TPx - 330C BouillABAiSSe – 16-1260 TPx - 159C

cArAmel – 18-1235 TPx - 4705C

pigemeNt Bleu – 19-4245 TPx - 541C

cHArBoN – 19-1111 TPx - 440C

BÉcot – 17-1545 TPx - 7418C

coBAlt – 18-4018 TPx - 303C

LIKE PASSION

proueSSe – 19-1840 TPx - 1945C

cASSerole – 14-5002 TPx - 877C

LIKE [cANAILLE]

pÉtruS – 19-2030 TPx - 208C

porto – 19-1726 TPx - 505C

poiSoN – 19-1619 TPx - BLaCK 5C

crApule – 18-6030/18-5338 TPx- 3298/348C

cArtooN – 18-1945 TPx - 220C

curAÇAo – 17-4928 TPx - 7474C

LIKE cARdbOARd/cELLOPHANE LIKE YIN LIKE YANG

b c Y

LIKE [cuIR]/cOcOA

pluie – 18-1110 TPx - 404C

potASSium – 18-0601 TPx - 425C BÂcHe – 19-3907 TPx - 446C cHANVre – 18-0939 TPx - 140C JuNg – 19-3920 TPx - 533C

BoNite – 15-4307 TPx - 7544C coQuille – 14-1036 TPx - 7407C NietZcHe – 19-2118 TPx - 7449C

BrÛlure – 19-1250 TPx - 484C

BAi – 19-1540 TPx - 491C cuBerDoN – 18-2929 TPx - 2425C

tHe eVeNtS

E v EN TSEvENTS P.19 > P.33

20THE NEW FORuM

PRoSPEcTIVE and RESEaRch

THE NEW FORuM

Incube, an indicator of emerging trends initiated by chemistry and technology, takes you to the heart of the innovations that may influence the design of future products.Reflecting one of society’s major concerns, namely man’s impact on the environment, this season Incube is focusing on a more eco-friendly approach.In a minimalist setting where the neo-lab spirit celebrates the unexpected harmony between natural materials & experimental research, Incube presents a selection of products whose developments are moving towards more:- sensory discoveries- functionality- resistance- comfort and 'intelligence'Incube pushes back the boundaries of your imagination!

EvENTS INcubE

21THE NEW FORuM

INcubEFASHION

usefuL

chImonT InTERnaTIonaL

cuRTumES RodRIguES

FEdERIco aLBaRELLo

TEcnochImIca concERIa monTEBELLo

IThaLIdE

ResPeCTfuL

22THE NEW FORuM

INcubEFASHION

sensITIve

gRuPPo maSTRoTTo

TannERIES du Puy

concERIa caPonI gIuSEPPEconcERIa monTEBELLo

concERIa monTEBELLo

fIRePROOf

dERcoSa

Acte 3 | 2012 - 2013Dossier de Presse

exHIBITIOn www.InTeRIeuRs-CuIR.COm

ExHIbITION

EvENTS INTÉRIEuRS cuIR

23

INTÉRIEuRS cuIR IS A cOLLEcTIvE PROMOTIONAL OPERATION FOR THE FRENcH LEATHER INduSTRY, LAuNcHEd bY THE FRENcH TANNERS ANd dRESSERS ASSOcIATION IN PARTNERSHIP WITH cTc ANd 12 FRENcH TANNERS ANd dRESSERS. THE ROLE OF THIS RESEARcH ANd dEvELOPMENT cOLLEcTIvE IS TO IdENTITIFY OPPORTuNITIES FOR NEW, INNOvATIvE ANd uNExPEcTEd APPLIcATIONS FOR FRENcH LEATHERS. INTERIEuRS cuIR IS A THINK TANK FOR THE MATERIAL ANd ITS POTENTIAL AROuNd THE HOME, ANd A FOuNT OF IdEAS FOR TRENdSETTERS, INduSTRY PLAYERS ANd MANuFAcTuRERS.

24ExHIbITION

INTÉRIEuRS cuIREvENTS

InITIaTOR

fRenCH assOCIaTIOn Of TanneRs anD DResseRswww.LeaTHeRfRanCe.COm

sPOnsORs

aLRan—

TanneRIe aRnaL—

BODIn JOYeux—TanneRIe RÉMY CARRIAT—TanneRIe DeGeRmann—

TanneRIes DuPIRe—

TanneRIes Du PuY—ReLma GuYaRD & CHesneau—HeRvY-meRCIeR TRaDInG—

mÉGISSERIE JULLIEN—

mÉGISSERIE LAURET—

TanneRIes ROux—TanneRIe sOvOs GROsJean

PaRTneR

CTC - PROfessIOnaL COmmITTee fOR THe eCOnOmIC DeveLOPmenT Of THe LeaTHeR seCTORwww.CTC-seRvICes.ORG

ICH BIn eIn BeRLIneRrépondre aux besoins de l’utilisateur actuel. Ainsi, le designer ne se contente plus de transformer des objets existants, il se comporte et agit comme un inventeur.

© leatheriZe

© arteria © arteria

INTERIEURS CUIR - Act 3 invited a selection of 7 famous French schools to take part in a design and interior architecture competition: Camondo / ENSAD / ENSCI - Les Ateliers / ESAD / ESADS /ESADSE – Cité du Design /Ecole de Design Nantes Atlantique. The theme of the competition is ‘decontextualised leather’ and the core idea is innovation in the use and application of leather, the aim being to develop a fresh and inventive vision of outlets for leather via its use in the conception of interior architecture and design projects. On the 17 projects presented, the jury rewarded the studentswho met the selection criteria with the ‘Grand Prix du Jury’ awarded to ARTERIA and the ‘Prix Spécial des Tanneurs Mégissiers’ to LEATHERIZE.

we LIKe IT a LITTLe, a LOT, maDLY, PassIOnaTeLY.LeaTHeR Is eveRYwHeRe. fROm DesIGneR fuRnITuRe TO waLL COveRInGs, fROm HanDBaGs TO HIGH HeeLs, IT Is THe favOuRITe maTeRIaL fOR fasHIOn anD InTeRIORs. wHeTHeR exPeRIenCeD PROfessIOnaLs OR newCOmeRs, Ten TaLenTeD COmPanIes HanDLe IT wITH COnsummaTe sKILL TO meeT THe mOsT CHaLLenGInG ORDeRs anD THeY InvITe YOu TO vIsIT THem DuRInG THe fOuRTH eDITIOn Of bESPOKE bY cuIR A PARIS.

bESPOKE : tHe tAilor-mADeP.25 > P.29

bESPOKE

bESPOKEEvENTS

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26ATELIER MARION cHOPINEAu

bESPOKEEvENTS

ATELIERMARION cHOPINEAu, ScuLPTuRE on FuR

create her own independent textile design workshop in the Père Lachaise district of Paris. sKILLsThe technique of producing designs on fur is borrowed from sculpture or bas relief; the work involves 'digging' into the fur and 'removing' some of the material. By its very nature, there is a nap to this type of material; to create volume, one must work perpendicular to the direction of the hair. This technique was patented at INPI in order to maintain its exclusivity and continue to develop and improve it. favOuRITe maTeRIaLsThe density of fur is a very important factor in the creation of the pattern: very thick fur makes it possible to work with much greater depth. The impression of depth is also provided by the nature and the colour of the fur: just like our own hair, animal hair is not the same colour at the roots and the ends. In general, hair lightens with exposure to light, wear and time; the root of the hair (the newest part) is darker than the length and the ends. On certain pelts, there can be as many as three different shades on a single strand of hair; these successive 'layers' can be used (a little like scratch cards) to create a pattern by altering the depth of the intervention on the mass of fur, allowing surfaces of different colours to become visible.

aPPLICaTIOnsMarion offers her expertise and her enquiring mind to designers in the haute-couture and luxury ready-to-wear sectors.

www.maRIOnCHOPIneau.fR

InITIaTIOnMarion Chopineau studied textile design at ENSAAMA Olivier de Serres in Paris. OnCe uPOn a TIme...Marion used hairdressing techniques to transform capillary textiles and furs in her Her Dress = Hair Dress collection, presented at the Hyères festival in 1998, for which she received an award. This

initial approach using hair led to the development of a technique of sculpture on fur that she has used ever since in her career. It has earned her a number of invitations from the Saga Design Centre in Denmark. After creating Bodyfriend, a collection of tactile objects exhibited at the Galliera museum during the Modes à Suivre 2 exhibition, she put her creativity to work in the quirky and prolific universe of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.In 2000, Marion Chopineau decided to

StYle BY © mArioN cHopiNeAu For rÉVilloN.

EKcELI

EKcELI, EmBRoIdERy on LEaThER & FuR

philosophical problem. She is guided by the natural attributes of the leather or fur that she selects as she demonstrates the image she wants to express. She embroiders her stitches with the aim of enhancing, rather than obscuring, the potential of the material. The gesture and the choice of tool must physically express the desired message. She likes to use pyrography, so as to brutalise, burn and incise the dermis. But pyrography is also a means of decorating and ennobling this skin and in doing so expressing the most delicate and nuanced emotions. Marie also enjoys embroidering on leather or fur because this is a relationship that is both conflictual and peaceful. The needles or the crochet hook struggle to pierce the surface, from time to time they break. But each stitch is carefully planned and located. Indeed, each perforation is embossed into the grain and illustrates her respect for the animal and for noble materials in general. Long periods of observation and analysis are therefore required in order to stitch in the right place.

favOuRITe maTeRIaLsMarie has an affinity for natural materials. Animal skins therefore seemed like an inevitable choice. The long and delicate process of transforming the animal into leather creates in each skin a unique abstract image. Embroidery therefore becomes like a pencil for highlighting the beautiful and fine details on the surface of the skin.

aPPLICaTIOnsSince the creation of Ekceli, Marie has mostly worked for individual or professional clients in the areas of childrenswear, bridal wear and upholstery. She has just started to collaborate with a chic, high-end brand of sneakers.

www.eKCeLI.COm

InITIaTIOnAfter studying for her BTS in Fashion Design, Textile and Environment at the Lycée de la Mode in Cholet, Marie Berthouloux felt the need to discover textiles in a more ‘microscopic’ manner.So she studied for a Diploma in the Textile Arts Professions, specialised in Cannetille embroidery at Rochefort.

OnCe uPOn a TIme...

After graduating last June, Marie launched her own textile design and embroidery label, named Ekceli, based in Nantes. Ekceli means ‘focus of attention’ in Esperanto and makes reference to her collections as a whole, which are inspired by a phenomenon that she wishes to highlight and share.

sKILLsIn general, Marie takes her inspiration from a sociological, historical or

StYle 'exploSioN pixÉlliSÉe' © eKceli.

bESPOKEEvENTS

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MANuFAcTuRE JEAN ROuSSEAu

MANuFAcTuRE JEANROuSSEAu, LEaThER goodS manuFacTuRER

materials. For example, they have developed a very soft and supple alligator skin for gloves, in a natural and silky finish. They also produce fashion leathers in alligator, designed for sheathing and producing shoe heels, and develop fluorescent alligator leathers that react under black and neon lights. Lining leathers in neon calfskin have also been designed to coordinate with the colour of the alligator skins, but also to allow them to be marked using heat and lasers. There is also a reptile skin designed for leather goods, offering an orange and yellow marbled effect. favOuRITe maTeRIaLsLa Manufacture works with a variety of exotic leathers such as python, shagreen and ostrich, but alligator remains the leading product from Jean Rousseau.

aPPLICaTIOnsLa Manufacture Jean Rousseau mainly works with luxury watchmakers, concept stores, hotels and individual clients.

www.Jean-ROusseau.COm

OnCe uPOn a TIme...La Manufacture Jean Rousseau was founded in 1954 in Besançon, the cradle of the French watch making industry at the time. The company started out as a key partner of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands, and then gradually extended its activity to belts and leather goods.

sKILLsLa Manufacture Jean Rousseau boasts not only a tanning and finishing workshop but also a watchstrap, belt and leather goods manufacturing workshop, which allows it to meet the most specific requests.Thanks to its Research & Development department, La Manufacture can offer a range of new effects to be applied to exotic leathers and ever-more innovative

BAg iN lIZArD © mANuFActure JeAN rouSSeAu.

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cAbALZAR

cAbALZAR, cREaTIon oF dEcoRaTIVE ELEmEnTS In LEaThER

she cooperated with, and was supported by, Professor Basil Kardasis of the Royal College of Art in London. During her work experience and on many courses, she acquired the necessary knowledge and techniques for this project, that allow her to achieve surprising effects with rare, precious and other unusual materials. sKILLsToday, she works closely with specialized leather experts to invent new creations, mainly used for interior decoration in the luxury sector. Her enthusiasm for design encompasses the whole process: from design, to procurement and production. Through the use of innovative techniques and unusual materials, she creates harmonious combinations which surprise with their exclusivity and persuasive elegance.

favOuRITe maTeRIaLsSilvia has always been fascinated by natural materials, which add a special touch to her own creations. As a teenager, while creating her own clothes, she got to know a furrier. The materials used were like magic for her. During her training to become a Fashion Designer, it became clear to her that she wanted to work with these precious materials. In her constant search of not yet commonly used materials, she discovered fish skin.

aPPLICaTIOnsThese decorative elements are well suited for interior design, above all in public areas such as hotels, yachts, restaurants, shops, but also private homes.

www.CaBaLZaR.COm

InITIaTIOnAfter graduating with a Master’s Degree in Fashion Design in 2007, Silvia Cabalzar was invited to take up an internship with a furrier in Basel, Switzerland; this was her introduction to this fascinating craft. This experience inspired her to produce two fur collections and one leather collection. In 2011, she attended the Discovery Fur Course at the Central University of Applied Science in

Finland. While there, she received a personal invitation from Saga Furs to attend one of their upcoming workshops at the Saga Design Center in Denmark.

OnCe uPOn a TIme...In 2012, Silvia launched a new Design Project. Her focus was to create objects and find inspiration using a rich variety of materials in surprising combinations. For this project, which again took place at the Central University of Applied Science in Finland,

leAtHer tile © cABAlZAr.

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Au - d E L À d u c u I R

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EvENTS

Au-dELÀ du cuIR IS A cROSS-dIScIPLINARY PROGRAMME WHOSE AIM IS TO PROvIdE IMPETuS TO THE LEATHER PROFESSIONS bY ENcOuRAGING THE EMERGENcE OF NEW cOMPANIES ANd PROMOTING FRENcH cREATIvITY ANd cRAFTSMANSHIP.

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31FASHION ExHIbITION

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This new programme was created in January 2012 and offers a wider palette of support and advisory services. To date it is working with 21 entrepreneurs, including 5 new members who were unanimously chosen by the Selection Committe chaired by Hervé Descottes on 10th January 2013. The new members all come from the leather sector, more specifically in the areas of footwear and leathergoods. With a real passion for their craft, they will help to breathe new life into this sector - as the 16 earlier members have done - via the ambitious programme of the AU DELA DU CUIR association. These young designers are each developing innovative concepts with a resolutely modern and creative vision of working with leather; in addition they all have strong and convincing personalities.

www.auDeLaDuCuIR.COm

ExHIbITIONdESIGNERS

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cOMPETITION

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'cRAFT THE LEATHER' IS A TRAINING PROJEcT FOcuSEd ON A GROuP OF TALENTEd YOuNG dESIGNERS FROM PRESTIGIOuS INTERNATIONAL ScHOOLS. IT AIMS TO PROMOTE TuScAN vEGETAbLE-TANNEd LEATHER, A HIGH-QuALITY PROducT cREATEd bY THE SKILLEd HANdS OF THE TuScAN MASTER TANNERS, ANd TO INcREASE AWARENESS OF THIS TRAdITIONAL buT ALSO ExTREMELY vERSATILE PROducT AMONG THE NEW GENERATION OF FASHION dESIGNERS.

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cRAFT THE LEATHEREvENTS

InITIaTOR

TOsCana PROmOZIOnewww.TOsCanaPROmOZIOne.IT

PaRTICIPanTs

DOmus aCaDemIa—ROYaL COLLeGe Of aRT—LOnDOn COLLeGe Of fasHIOn—

aRTeZ—HOnG KOnG POLYTeCHnIC unIveRsITY—fasHIOn InsTITuTe Of TeCHnOLOGY—RHODe IsLanD sCHOOL Of DesIGn—KOOKmIn unIveRsITY—BunKa fasHIOn COLLeGe—HIKO mIZunO COLLeGe

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COnZORTIO veRa PeLLeITaLIana COnCIaTa aL veGeTaLewww.PeLLeaLveGeTaLe.IT

ICH BIn eIn BeRLIneRrépondre aux besoins de l’utilisateur actuel. Ainsi, le designer ne se contente plus de transformer des objets existants, il se comporte et agit comme un inventeur.

A group of 10 selected students experienced total immersion in the culture of Tuscan Veg-tanned Leather. Based at the historic Conservatorio di Santa Chiara, San Miniato, in the heart of the Leather District, they followed the entire productive process from the tanneries. Based on the experience acquired during this training project, these young designers elaborated a creative theme related to the natural characteristics of Veg- tan leather and a mini-collection of fashion accessories that are being presented at the show from September 17th to 19th, 2013. Visitors will have the chance to discover the creations of these young talents and to vote their preference. The winner of Craft The Leather 2013 will be awarded during the fair. The award ceremony will take place on September 18th at 4:00 PM in the VIP area.

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nexT eDITIOn 18-20 FEB. 2014 HaLL 3

This document has been establised with the financial assistance of CTC Tax and Subsidies Department.

www.CuIRaPaRIs.COm

CUIR A PARIS Press kit sept.13

Design

Transcript of CUIR A PARIS Press kit sept.13