CIJ SUMMER 2013

No 297 / Summer 2013

made in Italy

T. 310 319 9600 - [email protected] - www.rebecca.it

COUTURE BOOTH #153

Seventies collection

Gemfields: the world’s leading producer of ethically-sourced rare coloured gemstones. Sustainability, set in stone. www.gemfields.co.uk +44 (0)20 7518 3400

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Gemfields: the world’s leading producer of ethically-sourced rare coloured gemstones. Sustainability, set in stone. www.gemfields.co.uk +44 (0)20 7518 3400

Mila Kunis, Los Angeles 2012

Editor’s Letter12 Still More Colour

Cover Feature16 Jochen Pohl – Artistic Architecture

Profiles20 Bizzotto Gioielli – Traditional Savoir-Faire22 2(X)ist – Time Will Tell 31 Interview – Bergio in the Spotlight32 Jye’s International, Quality Uncompromised44 Tivoli Jewels – The Exquisite World of Nar Wong50 Gainerie 91 – Expertise & Know-How Applied to Luxury Packaging

Ethical Business Practices46 Building Confidence – Why it Matters

Amber Symposium62 All About Amber

Marketplace52 Vicenzaoro Winter 2013 – Positive Signs for Italian Brands56 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair – A Sparkling Success60 Amberif 2013 – 20 Years of Amazing Amber66 Thailand’s World of Silver70 HKIJS – 30 Years & Counting74 Dazzling in Doha78 SIHH – Poetry, Tradition, & Métiers d’Art80 Jewels and Gems Dazzle in the Desert86 BaselWorld – A New Dimension

Opinions90 What People Are Saying About CIJ Trends & Colours

89 Index

I N T H I S I S S U E

On the CoverSelection of rings in 18K white gold and gemstones by Jochen Pohl.

Cover Feature, page 16www.jochenpohl.com

Profile – Tivoli Jewels

Editor: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Nathalie Glattfelder [email protected], T +41 22 307 7832; Alexandra Montandon, [email protected], T 41 22 307 7847; Italy - Alessandra Arati, [email protected], T +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected], T +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong, [email protected],

T + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar, [email protected], T +91 98 2115 1035 / USA - Karen Nuckols, [email protected], T +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design: Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director: Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europastar HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: [email protected]

Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2013 by Europa Star • www.europastar.comAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS.

34Mixing It Up – Vianna Brasil

Marketplace – NAC Amber

Colour Trends – Bavna

Marketplace – E & V Jewellery

Colour Trends – Emerald

Profile – Jye’s International

Fire & Ice Cris Porto

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Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Nathalie Glattfelder [email protected], T +41 22 307 7832; Alexandra Montandon, amontandon@

Colour Trends – Emerald

23

Profile – Tivoli Jewels


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34Mixing It Up – Vianna Brasil

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23Colour Trends – Bavna


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Fashion Colours23 Colours Moving into Fall 2013

Trends & Colours34 Mixing It Up36 Fire & Ice38 A Bug’s Life40 Something Old...42 Amazing Amber

Beauty is present in nearly every piece of fine jewelry, but the poetry is in the details. There is an ode to precision in a gentle curve of precious metal. The expertly cut facet of each diamond is a verse in brilliance. There is a sonnet of life in the luster of a South Sea pearl. The finished piece is an epic, a heroic triumph that is possible only with the properly honed talent of the craftsman.

“There are two men inside the artist, the poet and the craftsman. One is born a poet. One becomes a craftsman.” Emile Zola, French artist

only with the properly honed talent of the craftsman.

J O A I L L E R I E

“There are two men inside the artist, the poet and the craftsman.

Perfection is the standard in the hallowed halls that grace Place Vendôme, the origin of skills carefully taught to the Jewelmer Joaillerie jewelers. Classic methods with rich history have crossed oceans to the Philippines, where similarly gifted artists continue to hone and elevate the very same craft. With time, dedication, and inborn talent, they reach the level of the fine craftsman, able to produce fine jewelry that dazzles the senses and captures the imagination.

Jewelmer Joaillerie’s heritage is cradled in the core of the classic French tradition of high jewelry and genuine Filipino sensibilities. Each South Sea pearl is matched to perfection. The design is stirred by the soul of the designer. Every diamond is meticulously set to display its brilliant facets. All the graceful curves of 18-Karat gold are skillfully polished and molded with attention to the minutest detail. The completed piece is a joy to behold: born from inspiration and also able to inspire.

COUTURESalon 146, Lafite Ballroom

STILL MORE COLOUR

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

With the warm Summer weather comes a season full of colour, both in jewellery and in fashion. As you know, I am a bit partial to colour, and I cover it a lot, since it is the biggest trend in jewellery. In fact,

colour is now so pervasive that we probably shouldn’t call it a trend at all. Having said that, however, I can and do appreciate beautiful white diamonds, and on that subject, you can see some spectacular examples in the “Fire & Ice” spread on pages 36 and 37.

Getting back to colour, I recently did an informal survey of a few stores to see what particular shades were especially popular. No surprise really, just about all colours are doing well, but the greens seem to have a slight edge (as a reminder, Pantone’s Colour of the Year is Emerald). Tourmaline, emerald, and tsavorite seem to be the gems of choice in this category. But, it is not just about single colours. Designers are mixing things up with interesting juxtapositions of different hues. A

number of examples can be seen in the “Mixing It Up” spread on pages 34 and 35. Even fashion designers are creating a dialogue between colours, combining different tones of the same colour

or pairing vastly different hues to make their own vibrant statements.In this Summer issue, we again feature the Pantone colours for Fall, along with assorted

jewellery. Although the Fall hues have evolved somewhat from the Spring colours fea-tured in our Winter trends guide, Pantone feels that Emerald green is so strong that it will continue throughout the cold months. That can certainly be said for jewellery made with emeralds, of which there has been no shortage at the recent jewellery shows.

Speaking of shows, it has been a really busy Winter and Spring fair season, and in this issue we report here on the many creative pieces seen from A to V—from Amberif to Vicenza, passing by Antwerp, Bangkok, Basel, Doha, Geneva, Hong Kong, Phoenix, and Tucson. While most shows are international, each has its own characteristics, which makes it special and worth visiting and sharing with you. While the general mood at all the shows has been rather upbeat, most exhibitors still feel the economy and the industry have some distance to go before things get back to normal. Yet, we might ask ourselves if this is the new “normal?” When asked about buyers, exhibitors at nearly all the shows responded that the major buyers were from the emerging East European countries and

Asia, most notably China. This seemed to be the case not only for jewellery, but also for gemstones. Whether in Hong Kong, Tucson, Bangkok or Basel, Asians were among the biggest purchasers of diamonds and gems. The look eastward was also very apparent

at the recent BaselWorld show, where fair organizers held press conferences not only in English, but also in Chinese. Trade in our industry is thus both ways. While many Europeans

and Americans go to Hong Kong to buy goods, the Chinese are purchasing from the West.

feature the Jewelers Ethics Association. Based in the USA, although open to the international community, its membership includes retailers, manufacturers, gem dealers, laboratories, and consumers, who are committed to upholding ethical standards within the trade, especially in terms of disclosure and access to information.

Lastly, I would like to thank those of you who have expressed your appreciation for CIJ Trends & Colours. Your comments are truly appreciated, and some of these wonderful remarks are presented in this issue.

We look forward to seeing you at the upcoming Summer shows, and have a great and

Cynthia UnninayarEditor-in-Chief

Yoana Baraschi, using Pantone’s Acai, Samba, and Linden Green.

Cynthia

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JOCHEN POHLARTISTIC ARCHITECTURE

Rings of true artistry, pieces of jewellery and elegant riches all at once, are powerful symbols. This certainly applies to Jochen Pohl’s unique creations—beautiful, coveted pieces that evoke a new kind of sophistication with

a sculptural expression. Clearly, the artist is inspired by architecture.

By T.R. Flora

C O V E R F E A T U R E

Jochen Pohl has become very well known for his exclusive pieces of jewellery.

Located in the German town of Idar-Oberstein, he continues the family tradition. Trained as a goldsmith at a young age—as was his father—he soon developed a visionary passion for his work. It is a passion that en-ables him to design jewellery for people who are not looking merely for something spe-cial, but for those who appreciate uncom-promising craftsmanship. As a perfectionist himself, Pohl oversees each piece as it is conceived, handcrafted, and then set with the unique precious stones that he selects. From beginning to end, Pohl sees his jewellery transformed into one-of-a-kind items.

Idar-Oberstein is globally renowned as a centre for trade and workmanship for the most exquisite precious gemstones. And, when it comes to having a trained eye and the requisite sensibility for selecting the stones, there is no one more conscientious or talented than Jochen Pohl. He strongly believes that it is essential to recognize the unique character of a precious gem and to understand its worth.

The designer’s striking handwork is quite unmistakeable by the subtle extravagance of its design. Simple yet opulent, it creates a sculptural and sensual character.

Jochen Pohl jewellery is an enduring blend of radical modernity and a conscious sense of tradition. Often the design depends upon the ring itself, and enables the forma-tion of carefully composed stages on which the uniqueness of each individual stone is given pride of place.

Ring 101 C is one of the iconic pieces in Pohl’s remarkable collection. The extraordi-nary design of the 101 C, with its striking apertures and grooves, was inspired by clas-sical architecture. Formal elements from sacred buildings have been subtly evoked in his creations. The openings in his rings are thus reminiscent of cathedral apertures and windows, which let the sunlight streak in, creating bold silhouettes in a poignant and almost monumental interplay of light and shadow.

All of Jochen Pohl’s pieces are character-ized by classical elements in architecture, such as the Golden Ratio. In these meticu-

lously crafted compositions, you can almost see the finely coffered ceilings in an ancient columned hall or the dome of St Peter’s Basilica. In the natural shape of the ring, you can visualize the distinctive hollows, subtle lines, and balanced arches, all flowing with the harmonious form of the circle. The aesthetic proportions are in line with the design principles of eminent Renaissance architect, Andrea Palladio, whose works are characterized by their sense of balance and harmony. The essence of the pieces can be likened to the clear and simple designs of the Romantic era.

Jochen Pohl combines geometric shapes and architectural features to create balanced and sophisticated compositions, culminating in an altogether surprising sensuality. And, when on the finger, these sensual, finely balanced, and sculptural forms are felt in a delicate manner by the wearer.

To experience Jochen Pohl’s jewellery firsthand, meet the designer at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, where he will be intro-ducing his new TYPE collection. (www.jochenpohl.com)

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02/05/13 10:01

BIZZOTTO GIOIELLI:TRADITIONAL SAVOIR-FAIRE

A long history of love and dedication began more than forty years ago when Cesare Bizzotto, a young goldsmith, introduced himself to the world of fine gold jewelry with his own line of sophisticated necklaces.

By Karen Nuckols

P R O F I L E

Throughout the years, Cesare Bizzotto has expanded his portfolio of artisanal

ability and creativity with the knowledge of technical skills. After establishing a name for himself on the international level, he decided to follow his dream and create a jewelry label that bears his family name.

The crowned “B” mark on each piece of jewellery symbolizes the passion, dedica-tion to excellence, and creativity that each creation of Bizzotto Gioielli has embodied since the brand began in 2008.

It did not take long for Bizzotto Gioielli to carve out a place for itself in the highly com-petitive market of fine jewellery. Customers quickly recognized that the brand’s stylish jewellery is a fine mix of tradition, savoir-faire, and experience with a sophisticated and elegant approach to design, while also using modern technical manufacturing methods for its precious creations.

The brand’s greatest strength rests on the founder’s many years of experience in gold jewellery manufacturing, combined with his understanding of modern techniques in creating pavé jewellery. Also important is his passion for natural coloured gemstones. We must also mention his original aesthetic sensibility as well.

Bizzotto Gioielli pieces feature precious stones cast in 18K gold. An identifying characteristic of a classic Bizzotto Gioielli piece is the solid cable chain used as an accent. The chains are exclusively designed for each collection.

New arrivals to the Bizzotto Gioielli family of elegant jewels, these colourful and delicate 18K gold “Flower” rings are embellished with diamond pavé and natural stone centres.

These colourful 18K gold rings from the brand’s “Cocktail” collection are set with a ring of diamonds and variety of beautiful natural gemstones.

Left: A gold necklace from the new “Firmament” collection of fine jewellery is made in 18K satin-finished yellow and white gold, and set with diamonds.

From the “Pepite” collection, this necklace is in satin-finished 18K gold with aysmmetric golden nuggets set with diamonds.

Bizzotto Gioielli’s goal is to create sub-limely crafted jewellery that is timeless, with sleek styling and smart elegance, jewellery that will undoubtedly be passed down from one generation to the next.(www.bizzottogioielli.com)

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www.bizzottogioielli.com

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TIME WILL TELL In an industry more than two centuries years old—where what’s old is new—what does it take to innovate?

Jason Wilbur and 2(X)ist joined forces to answer that very question.

By Barbara Wheat

P R O F I L E

And, the answer might just surprise you. It is all about revolutionizing the world of

watchmaking with a line of innovative first-ever timepieces. Together, the active-wear firm and the industrial design wunderkind sought to inject a dose of stealth design and excitement into the world of watchmaking. To outsiders, this might, at first, seem like an unlikely pairing. After all, 2(X)ist is known for its high perfor-mance and highly stylized men’s underwear, and Jason Wilbur is a design-industry darling with a penchant for all things cutting-edge, from cars to footwear. Yet, the pair shared a synchronized vision in developing the first-ever watch for 2(X)ist. Called “The NYC,” it debuts at Couture Las Vegas in June 2013.

Inspired by the dynamism, movement, archi-tecture, and energy of New York City, home of 2(X)ist, The NYC has a sculptural design. Its striking 46-mm anodized aluminum case is multi-layered with a skeleton back, enabling the wearer to appreciate its complex move-ment. Each angle presents a unique silhouette that is both strong and edgy, drawing inspiration from the scaffolding, bridges, and steel-and-glass structures so typical of New York.

Other innovative materials include G10 polymer and ceramic. The steel bezel that sur-rounds the dial is sealed via visible stainless steel screws. The K1 mineral glass dial reveals brightly coloured hand indexes and numbers. Each watch comes with a silicone strap with the 2(X)ist logo with a steel buckle and deep mark etching. There are 12 versions overall, with various colour options for the straps, hour and minute hands, and dial treatments.

“I grew up in New York and I have a lot of respect for New York City. With this [project], I got to go back to my roots and get back to what New York City represents,” says Jason Wilbur. “It’s a crazy concrete jungle. It’s the most three dimensional city I’ve ever experi-enced, not just because of the architecture, but because of the emotion.”

Morris Chabbott, Managing Director of 2(X)ist, concurs. “Like Jason, I am a native New Yorker, and so Manhattan is certainly the core of our inspiration. We aimed to capture the spirit, the ambition, and the passion of the city in this timepiece, and I believe that we have achieved that.”

While The NYC by 2(X)ist retails for an ap-proachable $495, Chabbott and Wilbur view it as a piece of fine design, one that invites both fledgling and knowledgeable watch col-lectors to experience. “For the man who has everything, from Audemars Piguet to Patek

Philippe, The NYC is a curiosity. It is beautiful and he just needs to have it.”

Chabbott goes on to add, “For the novice watch collector, who has long dreamed of the experience of buying a fine watch, but hasn’t yet crossed the threshold of collecting fine timepieces, the 2(X)ist is a gateway into that rarefied world.”

The media has also been talking about 2(X)ist’s venture into timepieces. The New York Times wrote that 2(X)ist is taking “a timely leap of faith” into the category, while Women’s Wear Daily, said that 2(X)ist is on “the fast track to becoming a multi-category men’s lifestyle brand, starting with the debut of timepieces.”

“I’m ecstatic about this timepiece,” continues Chabbott. “As a collector of watches for a long time, it is the watch that draws the most inter-est from friends and colleagues. It is some-thing of a sensation!” (www.time2xist.com)

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Jason Wilbur

C O L O U R T R E N D S

Carla Amorim

Jochen Pohl

Muzo International Emerald

Antonini

Crivelli

Denise James

Gordon Aatlo Designs

Michael Endlich

Gemfields Emerald

Rodney Rayner

Faberge, Gemfields Emerald

J Jewels Milano

Syna

Hervé Léger by Lubov Azria using Pantone Linden Green. This colourbrings a lightness and brightness to the deeper shades of fall.

Saunder by Emily Saunder using Pantone Emerald. The color of the year, multi-faceted Emerald continues to sparkle and fascinate, bringing luxury and elegance to the palette.

In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we

Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013

By Cynthia Unninayar

Colours Moving into Fall 2013

Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.

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Suzy Landa

Penny Preville

Yvel

Nouvelle Bague

ViannaVianna

Bellarri

Opera Omnia Sandy Leong

Arunashi

Georland

Steven Alan using Pantone Carafe, a rich, glamorous

brown that pairs gracefully with more expressive colors

within the palette.

Tadashi Shoji using Pantone Vivacious,

an unruly and wildly deep fuchsia, which adds

an ebullient sensuality to the palette.



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Clementina Duarte

Sharart

MVee

Bavna

Oro Trend

Yael Designs

Alice K

Luca Carati

OMI Gems

Jack Kelege

Jenny Packham using Pantone Mykonos Blue,

a bold, meditative blue, for a classic and

relaxed Fall look.


Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.

Anzie


Yael DesignsDesigns

Cris Porto

Rachel Roy using Pantone Samba,

a red offering an expressive and

dramatic look.

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Carelle

Sharart

Katie Decker

Leaderline

Utopia Utopia

Vianna

Kavant

Vianna

Daniel Espinosa

J Jewels Milano

Robert Wan

Pamela Huizenga

Lela Rose using Pantone Koi. A decorative orange with dazzling and shimmering qualities, Koi is a statement color that serves as a pick-me-up for your wardrobe.

Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using Pantone Deep Lichen Green, a naturally lush shade of green.



PREVIEW BAVNA’SEXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS OF FINE RUBIES, EMERALDS SAPPHIRES &

RUSTIC DIAMOND JEWELRY

THE NATURE OF ELEGANCE

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THE SOLEIL COLLECTIONFANCY YELLOW ROSECUT DIAMOND JEWELRY

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Oly Lynggaard

Bibigi KC Designs

Jorge Revilla

Adami & Martucci

Todd Reed

Thistle & Bee

Isabelle Langlois

Bohemme

Suzanne Kalan

Revabella

Delance

MCL

Tia Cibani using Pantone Turbulence, a dark mercurial gray, with a touch of

Carafe, a rich, glamorous brown. These neutrals provide more interesting and sophisticated alternatives to the black basics usually worn in colder months.

Trina Turk using Pantone Acai, an exotic colour that adds mystery and richness to the palette, and can be incorporated with the other colours to create a number of powerful Fall combinations.



I N T E R V I E W

BERGIO IN THE SPOTLIGHTOne of the more outspoken players in the jewellery industry is Berge Abajian, CEO of New Jersey-based brand, Bergio. On the go constantly, with a variety of projects both in the USA and in Europe, Abajian paused for a few

minutes at BaselWorld to talk to CIJ Trends & Colours about his unusual strategies for the brand.

Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar

CIJTC: You took the unusual step of taking your company public several years ago. Why?Berge Abajian: We considered this carefully for several years before making it part of our brand strategy. By going public, we were able to raise the funds necessary to increase brand awareness and go to the next level in terms of design, production, and distribution. We are unique in always exploring new avenues.

CIJTC: In concrete terms, what has going public allowed Bergio to do?BA: Being public has forced us to expand into different avenues to satisfy our shareholder base. We have increased brand awareness and expanded into Europe, where our largest market is Russia. Bergio is well received as an upscale brand in Europe with a range of high-end jewellery. The Europeans also appreciate the ‘Made in USA’ aspect of our products.

CIJTC: What types of products are you specifically talking about? BA: We have created more designs in our fashion lines, in various colours of 18K gold, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Our bridal line features contemporary-style engagement rings, bridal sets, and eternity bands in 18K gold or platinum, set with diamonds or sapphires. For the past five years, we have focused on gold in our fashion lines as we have felt that gold would replace diamonds as a status symbol.

CIJTC: You mentioned changes in distribution. What do you mean in specific terms?BA: There are two changes. In today’s economic climate, many independent stores are selling mainly unbranded jewellery, produced overseas, under their own name. This is a way for them to survive, since, sadly, they don’t have the resources to support a brand. But, I feel that brands are going to be more important in the future, so we are now only working with select partners that sell and promote the Bergio brand. This is benefi-cial for them and for us. Our advantage, too, is that we spend on product design and development, which many so-called ‘designer brands’ don’t do. They merely buy ‘off the shelf’ from overseas and put their name on the pieces. Bergio is a real brand, with our own products and direction.

CIJTC: And the second change in distribution?BA: This is our latest news. We formed a mega partnership with ShopNBC to sell Bergio products, which launches on May 6. We decided to do this because we can reach a much larger audience. Basically, ShopNBC is taking our designs and selling them under the Bergio Brilliante label, which they are making in silver and bronze. If a person likes a Bergio design but cannot afford a $10,000 piece of jewellery, she can get something similar at a much lower price point, for example. in silver.

CIJTC: Won’t this eventually hurt your brand image? BA: No, I don’t believe so. In fact, we were approached many years ago to sell on TV, but declined the offer. Yet, after seeing a number of major brands not only succeed, but thrive after selling on TV and increase their brand awareness, we decided to take the plunge. On ShopNBC, we are addressing a different market. We also feel that this additional exposure will increase our brand awareness.

CIJTC: When so many brands are going to cheaper labour markets overseas, why do you insist on making Bergio in the USA?BA: Bergio is an American brand. We believe in supporting American workers. And importantly, another benefit of making our jewellery in the USA is that we can quickly repair or replace any item as necessary, since the workshops are in New Jersey. Plus, we have control over our designs and copyrights. When you manufacture jewellery overseas, you lose that control.

CIJTC: Bergio has already expanded into high-end belts. Are there any other brand extensions on the horizon?BA: After our successful belt line, we are now expanding into fine Italian silk scarves. We have formed a partnership with a manufacturer in Cuomo, which has the best resources to create these high quality scarves. This is our only exception to the ‘Made in USA’ philosophy.

CIJTC: I understand that you are in Basel to receive the ‘Man of the Year’ award from the Armenian Jewelers Association?BA: Yes, I was surprised to receive this award, and I am honoured to serve my community. The Armenian Jewelers Association is one of the most important organizations in the industry. It represents more than 30,000 members worldwide, many of which are major brands.

Berge Abajian

One of the more outspoken players in the jewellery industry is Berge Abajian, CEO of New Jersey-based brand,

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JYE’S INTERNATIONAL:QUALITY UNCOMPROMISED

From its early beginnings some thirty years ago, in 1982, as a purveyor of premium pearls to today’s fabulous collections of luxury jewels, the Jye’s brand epitomizes quality, superior craftsmanship,

innovation, and timeless beauty.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

P R O F I L E

Fast forward, some ten years later, in the early 1990s, founder Jennifer Chang

realized that the technological advances in the cultivation of pearls would likely lead to an oversupply. With that in mind, she shifted her company’s focus to designing and craft-ing luxury jewels. The result is a distinctive line that balances couture fashion with time-less appeal.

“We are very particular in our quest for quality,” Jennifer explains. “When we traded pearls, we dealt with premium goods, and began cultivating them to ensure the best quality. Similarly, when we started crafting jewels, we ventured into offshore production to give us a larger pool of skilled high-end goldsmiths.”

“Our collections use very fine GVS qual-ity, premium-cut diamonds, and precious gems to ensure the colourful beauty of brilliant artwork,” continues Charles Ueng,

Jennifer’s husband, who oversees produc-tion. “And, we only use 18K gold or 950 platinum. Our clients deserve beautiful works of art that are crafted from the very best materials—and that is what we provide.”

Diamonds make up about half of Jye’s collections, with bridal an important part of the mix. Coloured stones, including rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, make up the rest, and are normally set with diamond mount-ings to accent the beauty of the stones.

With a team of four designers, led pri-marily by Jennifer, and six senior gold-smiths, each piece is the result of collec-tive teamwork. “We routinely exchange ideas and inspirations,” she says. “And we always aspire to design around the cen-tre stone in order to enhance its meritsand provide our customers with spectacu-lar pieces.” One example of this close col-

laboration resulted in the “Susie Collection,” which features a patented design of share prong earrings and premium G color and VS clarity diamonds. Unlike the traditional hoop earring where only metal can be seen from the front angle, the share prong setting shows off a unique twist in the shape, allow-ing a perfect view of all of the diamonds. The piece shown below is in platinum with a total diamond weight of 1.7 carats.

Responding to customer needs is another of Jye’s priorities, and creating custom jew-els plays an important role in being able to do this. “We share a mission with our retail partners,” she says, “and that is to create a high-degree of customer value and re-sponsiveness. We work very hard to ensure that our retailers are able to provide their-customers with the ideal piece of jewellery. They deserve a luxurious piece that is as individual as they are, and crafted from the

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very finest quality gems.” Jennifer admits, however, that with the skyrocketing prices of gems and precious metals, along with in-creased labour costs, maintaining such high quality at a reasonable price is a constant challenge. Yet, because of the brand’s abil-ity to continue to do this, she feels that their retail partners benefit since they are able to sell high-quality pieces at very competitive price points.

The company is also putting more empha-sis on brand recognition. “Jye’s already has an established and highly respected name at the wholesale level,” she adds. “We are now focused on increasing our brand awareness with the end-user by strengthening and expanding our co-op campaigns, as well as expanding our advertising initiatives.”

A new website and new web-based tools to make purchasing easier and more conve-nient for retail partners are also in the works.

Digital images and multi-media materials will be more plentiful and easier to access and download. “We’ve always supported our re-tailers’ marketing campaigns, as well as their VIP and charity events, and that support will continue to grow,” she adds. “Jye’s believes strongly in giving back to the community, but we let our retail partners take the lead and the credit.”

Although the company is family-owned, Jennifer has brought in senior level execu-tives from outside to help manage it. “All of our offshore branches are run by non-family executives, and that speaks a lot about our business philosophy,” she says.

As with everything Jye’s does, having the highest quality management team is essen-tial. “We treasure family bonds and legacy. As a result, we’ve recruited significant num-bers of second-generation individuals related

to our staff members, who bring in fresh new ideas. Our future management, however, is open to any new talent, whether external or internal.”

Ethical sourcing of materials is another area Jennifer is passionate about. She be-lieves that it is good for the jewellery industry overall, and that it will help stabilize the mar-ket in the long term. “And, it strengthens the consumer’s faith in our industry, which is so very important,” she muses.

Jye’s list of awards is also quite impres-sive. The brand has been a winner for five consecutive years of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, among other recognitions.

For Jennifer Chang and Charles Ueng, and each of the other individuals who make the Jye’s International brand so very spe-cial, it has—and always will be—about quality uncompromised, in all aspects of the brand. (www.jyescorp.com)

very finest quality gems.” Jennifer admits, however, that with the skyrocketing prices of gems and precious metals, along with in-creased labour costs, maintaining such high quality at a reasonable price is a constant challenge. Yet, because of the brand’s abil-ity to continue to do this, she feels that their retail partners benefit since they are able to sell high-quality pieces at very competitive

The company is also putting more empha-sis on brand recognition. “Jye’s already has an established and highly respected name at the wholesale level,” she adds. “We are now focused on increasing our brand awareness with the end-user by strengthening and expanding our co-op campaigns, as well as

A new website and new web-based tools to make purchasing easier and more conve-nient for retail partners are also in the works.

to our staff members, who bring in fresh new ideas. Our future management, however, is open to any new talent, whether external or internal.”

area Jennifer is passionate about. She believes that it is good for the jewellery industry overall, and that it will help stabilize the market in the long term. “And, it strengthens the consumer’s faith in our industry, which is so very important,” she muses.

sive. The brand has been a winner for five consecutive years of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, among other recognitions.

and each of the other individuals who make the Jye’s International brand so very special, it has—and always will be—about quality uncompromised, in all aspects of the brand. (www.jyescorp.com)

Bizzotto

T R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R S

Marco Bicego

Tresor Tresor

Zorab

Vianna Brasil

Damiani

Rebecca

Outfit by Betsey Johnson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC)

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Temple St. Clair

Yael Sonia

Roberto Coin

Rebecca

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Caroline C

Mattioli

Minawala

Pamela Huizenga

MIXING IT UP

Outfit by Maria Escote (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

MVee

Tamara Comolli

Lamp by Cappellini

Goshwara

Effy

Complementary or contrasting colours in both jewellery and fashion come together to

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1. Earrings in gold with diverse cuts of diamonds by Zydo (Italy). 2. Diamond and gold earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 3. Diamond and gold necklace by Gumuchian (USA). 4. Diamond and gold earrings by Messika (France). 5. Diamond, silver, and ceramic “Shining Star” ring by Reena Ahluwalia for Royal Asscher (Canada/The Netherlands). 6. Diamond and gold ring by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 7. Diamond and gold cuff by Graff (Britain). 8. Rose-cut diamond and platinum ring by John Apel (USA). 9. Diamond and gold hoop earring by Sylvie (USA). 10. Outfit by Pamella Roland (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

The proverbial girl’s best friend lends The proverbial girl’s best friend lends The proverbial girl’s best friend lends The proverbial girl’s best friend lends The proverbial girl’s best friend lends The proverbial girl’s best friend lends itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple itself to many designs, from simple and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and and stylish to sophisticated and sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round sumptuous, from the classic round cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds Whatever the shape, diamonds are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they are so very beautiful when they

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T R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R S

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11. Diamond and gold earrings by Damiani (Italy). 12. Diamond and gold pendant by Joia (France). 13. Diverse-cut diamond and gold “Mondrian” earrings by Cris Porto (Brazil). 14. Diamond and gold brooch by Lorenz Baumer(France). 15. Diamond and gold “Snowflake” brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 16. Special diamond setting technique to enhance size perception, by Ititoli (Italy). 17. Diamond and gold “Manhattan” ring by Mathan Paris(France). 18. “Asscher-Cut Princess” diamond and gold rings by Quadamas (USA). 19. Diamond and gold earrings by Norman Silverman (USA). 20. Outfit by Ana Locking (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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1. Gold and diamond brooch by Le Vian (USA). 2. Gold, and diamond bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 3. Gold, diamond, tourmaline, and aquamarine brooch by Ruth Grieco (Brazil). 4. Gold, amber, and tsavorite pendant by NAC Amber (Poland). 5. Gemstone, pearl, and gold brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 6. Enamel, gold, diamond, and gemstone pendant by Creart II (Italy). 7. Gold, tourmaline, and opal brooch by Golconda (USA). 8. Gold, diamond, and enamel ring by Staurino Fratelli (Italy). 9. Gold, paraiba tourmaline, and diamond ring by Cris Porto (Brazil). 10. Gemstone and gold earring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 11. Moonstone, gold, and tsavorite brooch by Lydia Courteille(France). 12. Silver and amber hanging bee sculpture by Ambalt (Poland). 13. Gold and diamond cuff by Peter Lam (Hong Kong).

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14. Ruby, gold, and diamond pendant by Pippo Perez (Italy). 15. Gold, ruby, and diamond pendant by Vida (Hong Kong). 16. Amber and gold pendant by Ambermix (Poland). 17. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Jafarov (Germany). 18. Gold, diamond, and ammonite brooch by Mark Schneider (USA). 19. Enamel, zircon, and gold-plated silver ring by Misis (Italy). 20. Amethyst, ruby, diamond, and gold brooch by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 21. Gold and enamel brooch by Commelin (France). 22. Fully articulated gold, gemstone, and diamond brooch by Jizai/Kodama (Japan).

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A BUG’S LIFEAnd what a life it is! From bees to

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T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

SOMETHING OLD,SOMETHING NEW. . .

These words also pretty much sum up today’s trends in wedding rings. Some brides appreciate the vintage look. Others are drawn to new and modern styling.

Solitaires are most demanded, but emerald and other cuts bring a different elegance. Rings shown here are in gold or platinum with diamonds or sapphires.

Maevona

Simon G

Heather Moore

Claude Thibaudeau

Toby Pomeroy

OGI

Ivanka Trump

House of Baguettes

Michael M

Frederick Goldman

Dress by Sarli Couture (photo: AS)

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SOMETHING BORROWED,SOMETHING BLUE. . .

Designs borrowed from the past, namely revisited halo settings, appeal to today’s brides, while rings set with coloured stones are fast becoming mainstream,

notably pink and yellow diamonds and blue and pink sapphires. Yet, some rings even incorporate other colours, including brown and black diamonds.

Sylvie

Jack Kelege

Green G

Beverley K

Kirk Kara

Uneek

Bergio

AcP by Quadamas

Jye’s International

Dress by Renato Balestra (photo: AS)

Jack KelegeJack Kelege

Bergio

International

1. Amber and silver pendant by S & A Jewellery Design. 2. Amber and silver necklace by Studio DF. 3. Amberand gold pendant by Zimmermann Design. 4. Amber and gold earrings by Ambermix. 5. Amber, gold, andsilver ring by Art 7. 6. Silver, gold, and amber pendant by Malgorzata Wasowska. 7. Amber and silver ring byAleksander Gliwinski. 8. Silver and amber ring by Jaceek Ostrowski. 9. Silver and amber pendant by Eva Stone. 10. Outfit by Irina Schrotter (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin).

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AMAZING AMBER12

With its warm organic colours and mythic origins, amber’s popularity continues to grow. Used in its natural state, facetted, or polished, in gold or silver, this living gem lends itself to a wide variety of creative

and colourful jewellery and objets d’art.

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11. Amber and silver pendant by Amber Planet. 12. Amber and silver earrings by Ambermoda. 13. Amberand silver pendant by Danka Czapnik. 14. Amber and gold pendant by NAC Amber. 15. Gold and amber pendant by Il Perseo. 16. Amber and silver cuff by Marcin Zaremski. 17. Silver and amber sculpture by Ambalt. 18. Amber and silver pendant by Bogdan Frydrychowicz. 19. Silver and amber ring by Enzo. 20. Outfit by Raden Sirait (photo: Jakarta Fashion Festival).

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THE EXQUISITE WORLD OF NAR WONGAs a young girl growing up in China, Nar Wong could not have dreamed that one day she would become a much sought after designer of exquisite jewels. Today, her stunning one-of-a-kind pieces are sold through her store, Tivoli Jewels, in San Gabriel, California

and collected by clients around the globe.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

Nar Wong spent her early career working as an electrical engineer

in China, but destiny was about to play its hand. In the 1970s, she moved to California to join other family members, and settled in the Chinese community of Monterey Park, east of Los Angeles. At that time, Wong had no idea that a casual get-together with a few friends would change her life forever.

“I was visiting some friends,” she ex-plains, “when I learned that one of them had opened a jewellery store in China-town, and that another had opened a jewellery booth in Downtown LA. They suggested that I go into this type of business as well.”

While the idea was certainly appeal-ing, she had absolutely no training or knowledge of the industry. With a bit more encouragement, however, Wong eventually decided to follow her heart, and in 1979 started her own company.

When she first decided to go into the jewellery business, she faced many ob-stacles, including a lack of knowledge of the industry as well as a lack of experi-ence in selling her pieces.

Yet, undaunted and determined to succeed, she hired an experienced salesperson, who helped her learn sales skills as well as a basic knowledge of jewellery. “I also studied a great deal about gemstones and learned from other established jewellers about the jewellery trade.”

Eventually, Wong developed a rather unconventional way of creating strong relationships with her clients. “I would meet them in the comfort of their home, and was able to get to know each one on a personal level. This allowed me to

see their world and the things that hold a special place in their hearts,” she says. It also allowed the jeweller to gain a better understanding of her customers’ tastes, preferences, and needs.

“It soon became clear to me that I needed to focus on creating stunning individualized jewels for my clients. So I immersed myself into learning and un-derstanding the process of high-end customization.”

With the notion that the “customer comes first” as her guiding principle, Wong grew the business by earning the

R E T A I L E R F O C U S

trust and loyalty of her ever-expanding client list, one person at a time. “The most important trait a jeweller can have,” she insists, “is the ability to really put people first.”

Pink, yellow, and white diamond and gold earrings and necklace.

The guiding principle at Tivoli Jewels is based on the notion that the

Pink, yellow, and white diamond and gold earrings and necklace.

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Over the years, Nar Wong has devel-oped many close and meaningful re-lationships with her clients, and enjoys nothing more than searching the world for exquisite gems, then designing the perfect one-of-a-kind piece for them. “It is often like a treasure hunt,” she muses, “travelling the globe to find that special or extraordinary diamond or gemstone.”

And travel she does, sometimes to very remote areas. “One of my more memorable trips took place in the late 1980s,” she recalls. “I was travel-ling with my daughter and my cousin to Yunnan, China in search of rubies and jadeites. From Kunming, which is the capital city of Yunnan, we took a local flight into Dehong Manshi airport, and then rode for two hours into Ruili, a border city between China and Burma. During those years, Burmese dealers often brought their jade to Ruili to sell. After seeing the goods, we were ready to fly back to Kunming, but learned that a bird had hit the plane’s propeller, and it would be a week be-fore we could get another flight out.”

The only other transportation was a 30-hour bus ride, in the pouring rain, across a narrow winding mountain road.“It was like a 30-hour rollercoaster ride,” she says, “and the antiquated bus was so overcrowded that many passengers had to stand the entire way.”

After a very difficult and uncomfort-able trip, they finally made it back to Kunming. “We then headed to Hekou—a border city between China and Viet-nam—in search of rubies. At that time, trade between Chinese and Vietnamese vendors was conducted along a half-mile long dirt road. When we returned, we had the stones tested and discov-ered that that some of them were, in fact, red glass!” It was an expensive lesson for Wong and her daughter—a lesson they have never forgotten.

“Through my travels,” Wong goes on to say, “I’ve had the opportunity to see and to experience many different cultures. I’m inspired by the diverse expression in the art of their jewellery.”

Her love of nature and vibrant colours also influences the design of her unique and remarkable pieces. And, in 2007, Wong expanded Tivoli Jewels to launch annual collections, showcasing an even greater number of spectacular, trend-

Nar Wong’s three children have joined her in the business. “My son, Michael, is very social, and oversees the sales and marketing aspects of the company. My daughter, Rosemary, is talented in inte-rior decorating and does a wonderful job displaying the jewels, and making sure our environment is inviting to our clients. My daughter, Lisa, is quite creative and is involved with the designs. She also oversees the entire customization pro-cess, and travels the world with me to source the gems.”

It is this teamwork that Wong feels has contributed to the incredible suc-cess of her company, which, to this day, still specializes in one-of-a-kind pieces, pieces that are as unique and exquisite as the world Nar Wong has created. (www.tivolijewels.com)

Front view of pink and white diamond and gold necklace.

Yellow and white diamond, sphene, and gold pendant.

Her love of nature and vibrant colours also influences the design of her unique and remarkable pieces. And, in 2007, Wong expanded Tivoli Jewels to launch annual collections, showcasing an even greater number of spectacular, trendsetting, and original works.

Nar Wong’s three children have joined

Back view of the elegant pink and white diamond necklace with

diamonds cascading sensually down the

wearer’s back.

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Lika Behar creates historically inspired unique works of wearable art using ancient techniques. Seafaring Mediterranean civilizations are her inspiration for the “Ocean” collection, which achieves this play on colour with a colourful boulder opal hand set in 24K gold with a brilliant green tsavorite.

Lika Behar creates historically inspired unique works of wearable art using ancient techniques. Seafaring Mediterranean civilizations are her inspiration for the “Ocean” collection, which achieves this play on colour with a colourful

Opal & Green Tsavorite Pendant by LIKA BEHAR

Thistle & Bee epitomizes classical elegance – creating sleek, carefully crafted and elegantly styled designs in sterling silver. The extensive Thistle & Bee Collection includes bold statement pieces as well as clean simple styles – providing versatility of fine design and an extensive range of choice.

Shows: JCK Las Vegas, JA New York

Stacking Bangles with Gemstones by THISTLE & BEE

Pamela Huizenga, talented jewellery designer and gem-cutter, uses her fascination with the wide range of colours, textures, and natural imperfections found in gemstones to create her one-of-a-kind pieces. Her unique pieces are crafted in both 18K gold and silver. Her bold and unusual style captures the imagination of those seeking unusual and creative high-end jewellery designs.

Show: Couture

Multi-colour Bracelet by PAMELA HUIZENGA

B U Y E R ’ S G U I D E

PAMELA HUIZENGA Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Pamela_Huizenga.html

THISTLE & BEE Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Thistle_and_Bee.html

LIKA BEHAR Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Lika_Behar.html

Shows: Centurion, JCK Las Vegas, JA New York, Select by Centurion Nashville & Connecticut

Multi-colour Bracelet by PAMELA HUIZENGA

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The Gávea Collection was inspired by the famous paragliding trips in Rio de Janeiro and the sensations of flying over the Wonderful City, as it is known internationally. The shapes and positions of the gemstones remind us of the silhouette of the paraglide, evoking the unparalleled feelings and the sights as the beach meets the alluring city of Rio de Janeiro.

Shows: Vicenzaoro, About J, BaselWorld,JCK Las Vegas, Centurion Scottsdale, Centurion South Beach, Feninjer, St Petersburg, Moscow

The Gávea Collection was inspired by the famous paragliding trips in Rio de Janeiro and the sensations of flying over the Wonderful City, as it is known internationally. The shapes and positions of the gemstones remind us of the silhouette of the paraglide, evoking the unparalleled feelings and the sights as

JCK Las Vegas, Centurion Scottsdale, Centurion

Gávea Collection by VIANNA BRASIL

Presenting the “Asscher Cut Princess” (the “AcP”), an ingenious combination of an Asscher Cut’s clarity and a Princess Cut’s brilliance. Available in Fine Diamonds and Ceylon Sapphires, loose or mounted. Protected by six U.S. Patents.

Pink AcP Sapphire Halo Solitaire by QUADAMAS

Celebrating 15 years in design, Yael Sonia’s creations are timeless yet unique, translating the simple joys of childhood into sophisticated kinetic fine jewellery. All her fine jewellery is handmade in 18K gold, pearls, and gemstones in her studio in Sao Paulo, Brazil. In addition to her studio/showroom, Yael Sonia jewellery can be purchased in New York City, Rio de Janeiro, Paris, and Hong Kong.

Show: Couture

Celebrating 15 years in design, Yael Sonia’s creations are timeless yet unique, translating the simple joys of childhood into sophisticated kinetic fine jewellery. All her fine jewellery is handmade in 18K gold, pearls, and gemstones in her studio in Sao Paulo, Brazil. In addition to her studio/showroom, Yael Sonia jewellery can be purchased in New York City, Rio de Janeiro, Paris, and Hong Kong.

Show: Couture

B U Y E R ’ S G U I D E

YAEL SONIA Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Yael_Sonia.html

QUADAMAS Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Quadamas.html

VIANNA Designer’s filewww.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Vianna Brasil.html

47

BUILDING CONFIDENCE:WHY IT MATTERS

In today’s market, jewellers, like many other business owners, are looking to find a competitive advantage that speaks to their clients above and beyond great designs, creative marketing, and the top-notch customer service they are already providing. Knowing that consumers want to feel good about their purchases, many industry pro-fessionals are finding ways to build confidence through increased focus on ethical business practices, including

emphasis on transparency and full disclosure of products, sourcing, and manufacturing processes.

By Barbara Wheat

E T H I C A L B U S I N E S S P R A C T I C E S

Among the organizations dedicated to promoting and supporting ethical busi-

ness practices within the jewellery and gemstone industry is the Jewelers Ethics Association (JEA), founded in 2009 by Lisa Brooks-Pike. A non-profit trade organization, with members from around the world (man-ufacturers, dealers, retailers, industry media, laboratories, and other interested parties, in-cluding consumers), the JEA encourages its membership to build confidence with clients all along the supply chain. This includes ac-cess to information on gemstones, precious metals, and jewellery care.

Upholding ethical standards within the trade includes the full disclosure of the myri-ad treatments and enhancements present in today’s marketplace. Industry professionals who offer this information are providing their clients with more than just a stunning jewel; they are building confidence and developing long-term trust.

Current JEA membership is mainly com-prised of industry members who meet regularly to discuss gemstone treatments and disclosure issues, in light of the ever-changing nature of treatments. In order to keep pace with industry demand, JEA conducts seminars featuring experts ad-dressing pressing topics at trade shows, and it also participates with organizations such as the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) at its annual ACE©IT Conference.

In 2012, JEA responded to a request from the United States Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which opened a public comment pe-riod to get feedback from industry organi-zations in revising the FTC Jewelry Guides. JEA submitted a report of recommendations addressing gemstone treatments and disclo-sure as well as comments regarding disclo-sure of metal content in jewellery.

In June, JEA will send four board mem-bers to meetings with the FTC in Washing-ton D.C. to to further address these issues ahead of the publication of the revised FTC Jewelry Guides. Once finalized, these guide-lines will be available on the JEA website, along with other information that is available to members and non-members alike.

The JEA Board of Directors is composed of industry leaders from all aspects of the gem and jewellery trade, including related professional media.

To learn more about the advantages of becoming a JEA member, please visit www.jewelersethicsassociation.com.

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Barbara Wheat is Founding President of the Jewelers Ethics Association.

Lisa Brooks-Pike, founder of the Jewelers Ethics Association, speaking at a NAJA conference.

For complete contest details visit www.cpaa.org.

What will you CREATE?FOURTH EDITION: 2013-2014COMPETITION

InternationalPearl Design

205x265_CPAA_contest_Ad.indd 1 4/30/13 9:10 PM

has founded its reputation on the ex-actness of its technicians in crafting their products, and on flawless quality control. With over 45 years’ experience in the manufacture of cases, all G91 products are hand-made.

The brand’s designers can also create tailor-made products at the customer’s request, thereby catering to personalised shapes, colours or materials.

For many years, the quality inherent in G91 products has been recognised by the world’s leading creators of jewellery and watches: Boucheron, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chopard, Chanel, Harry Winston, Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as by private jet manufacturers such as EADS or Bombardier, and luxury wines and spirits producers such as LVMH.

G91 has the means to deliver its products in small and large quantities to cater to the development needs of all its customers.

GAINERIE 91EXPERTISE & KNOW-HOW APPLIED

TO LUXURY PACKAGINGFrom 30th May to 3rd June 2013, GAINERIE 91 will present its complete range of products at the Couture show in Las Vegas (Booth 711). This range comprises products designed specifically for jewellery and watches: cases, display stands, pouches, trays, folder cases, presentation cases,

POP displays, ribbons, shopping bags and gift bags.

S P O T L I G H T

The latest creations at Couture- Three new cases (“Etoile”, “Trocadéro” and “Bastille”) available in leather or Alcantara.

- New trays with removable, modifiable inserts as appropriate (“Alma” range)

- Two new busts, stands and accessories in leather or satin for the “Joséphine” product line, and in acrylic for the “Bagatelle” line.

- New POP displays and stands in solid wood (natural oak, dark oak or lacquered wood) with inserts that can be covered in different materials (“Bois de Boulogne” range)

- Wooden cases for the “Montaigne” product line, with a wide choice of lacquer colours and precious veneers.

These new products will benefit from a new environment, a new stand and a new cata-logue in line with the GAINERIE 91 brand’s revamped visual identity.

To better serve its customers, in particular watchmakers, GAINERIE 91 has opened a branch in Switzerland at La Neuveville: PackinG91 (www.packinG91.ch)

GAINERIE 91

Trocadéro (Above) & Alma (Below) Bagatelle

JoséphineMontaigne

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FRANCE ParisGAINERIE 91 + 33 1 69 05 21 [email protected]

FRANCE PolignySejac+ 33 84 37 11 [email protected]

SUISSE La Neuveville+ 41 52 751 22 [email protected]

COUTURE LAS VEGAS USABOOTH 711

30th May- 3rd June 2013

FRANCE ParisGAINERIE 91 + 33 1 69 05 21 [email protected]

COUTURE LAS VEGAS USABOOTH 711

30th May- 3rd June 2013

USA New-YorkGAINERIE 91 + 33 1212 915 95 [email protected]

VICENZAORO WINTER 2013:POSITIVE SIGNS FOR ITALIAN BRANDS

Kicking off 2013’s jewellery trade calendar under the theme “The Future. Now,” Vicenzaoro Winter provided a note of cautious optimism for the recovery of the global

jewellery market. This optimism continued in the recent Spring edition held in May.


The largest of the three editions, Vicenzaoro Winter is particularly im-

portant as many brands introduce new collections, thus helping to set the global trends for the year, while the economic results tend to set the mood for the com-ing months. At the close of both the win-ter and the spring shows, the tone was upbeat and cautiously optimistic.

While Italian exhibitors made up the majority of the 1,500 companies pres-ent, others came from 31 other nations, further evidence that Vicenzaoro is in-deed an international meeting place. This “globality” was also seen in the number of foreign visitors who travelled to the show. Of the 29,000 people who visited both Vicenzaoro and T-Gold (section for machinery and technology), 7,600 were buyers from overseas, who made trips from 120 countries.

“The influx of visitors is a positive sign for the jewellery world, especially for Italian-made products. If the abundance of Italian traders is a good sign, then the presence of foreigners, particularly in terms of the quality and determination of

the buyers, is extremely significant,” com-mented Roberto Ditri, President of Fiera di Vicenza. “At the moment, the economy of the jewellery industry is being dragged along by the foreign markets, especially non-European ones, and for this reason, the fact that we saw retailers from Can-ada, the United States, Central America,

M A R K E T P L A C E

and Russia as well as Asia, the Middle East and Turkey, is enormously satisfying. The increase in the numbers of people coming from the Balkans and Greece is also interesting.” A great deal of this suc-cess can be attributed to the fact that the Vicenza Fair is more than a trade fair, but an entity that works very hard on the main markets to promote brand aware-ness of Vicenzaoro, in particular, and Ital-ian jewellery in general. As Ditri added, “It is our contribution towards boosting the importance of Italian production and industry in the territory.”

Promoting the IndustryThe Fiera de Vicenza is continuing its

strategies to not only improve the fair, but also to promote Italian design worldwide. This is seen in various initiatives under-taken in markets such as Hong Kong, Dubai, India, and Las Vegas, as well as other special events aimed at giving Vicenzaoro a more international pres-ence. “2013 is a year of transition for the fair. Several new major projects are being developed this year, which will cul-minate in 2014 with the launch of Fiera

Playful ways to use silver and enamel were evoked in earrings by Misis.

Colour and stylish open designs were a major trends at Vicenza. Shown here: rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, and gold earrings by Casato Roma.

“Venetian Rose Window” earrings in gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Bizzotto.

Multi-coloured gemstone, bead, and silver cuff by Ziio.

minate in 2014 with the launch of Fiera

“Venetian Rose Window” earrings in gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Bizzotto.

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di Vicenza’s ‘Boutique Show,’” explained Ditri. “It will extend its direct presence into all the world’s strategic markets.”

Fully operational beginning with the Vicenzaoro Winter 2014 event, the Boutique Show will have a new infrastruc-ture, new services, and new exhibition models specifically designed to enhance the value of the offer and meet the needs of buyers and retailers. This entails a re-arrangement of the new exhibition space based on a number of guidelines, and involves the creation of new exhibitor “communities.” Brands will be organized into similar groups based on common val-ues, positioning, organizational systems, production type, and overall image. The entire exhibition will contain six areas: Icon, Creation and Look for jewellery; Essence for gemstones and precious components; Expression for packaging and visual mer-chandising; Evolution for precious metal processing technologies.

Among a number of other marketing initiatives is the creation of a new portal

at vicenzaoro.com and the Vicenzaoro TV Channel. The former goes beyond the dimensional and temporal restrictions of the trade fair, and serves as a perma-nent showcase that can interact with the global jewellery sector on a continual basis. The new TV channel was broadcast throughout Europe during the six-day fair over the Sky, Tivusat, and Eutelsat satel-lite platforms. It offered exhibitors and other players in the sector international visibility with a potential audience of hun-dreds of millions of spectators.

New Additions to VicenzaoroPromoting Vicenzaoro worldwide also

pays off in terms of attracting foreign exhibitors. Among the several new en-trants this year were the Spanish brand Bohemme and the U.S. brand Le Vian. Owned by designer Antonio Espaliu Berdud, the two-year old Cordoba-based Bohemme creates very fashionable sil-ver creations with black rhodium plating,

along with some gold pieces, set with real stones and cubic zirconia. “We do very well in Spain,” explained Berdud, “and wanted to branch out internationally, and we saw Vicenzaoro as a good vehicle.”

The New York-based Le Vian de-cided to exhibit at Vicenzaoro because it “wants to expand into Europe, China, and India” stated Jonathan Le Vian, son of the founder. Sometimes dubbed “the chocolate company,” Le Vian special-izes in chocolate diamonds as well as coloured diamonds, and has a popular line of chocolate bridal rings.

In addition to the newcomers, trend-setting designs from Vicenzaoro exhibi-tors can be seen on these pages, indica-tive of the creativity and craftsmanship of Italian design.

Comments from Buyers and Brands “This is my first time at Fiera di

Vicenza. It is the most important event in the gold and jewellery sector and it seems to be very focused on the creative aspect of jewellery. As far as I’m concerned, Vicenzaoro is an extremely important meeting point for creating and estab-lishing business relationships, and I am happy to have had the chance to expand my customer base due to my visit here.” – Manish Dhamani, Dhamani Jewelry, Dubai (buyer).

Geometric lines create a lacy pattern in gold and diamonds by Luca Carati.

The trendy colour of bright orange was seen in this opal, diamond, and gold necklace by Italian Design.

A newcomer to Vicenzaoro, Spanish brand Bohemme presented trendy black rhodium-plated silver jewellery adorned with coloured gems.

USA-based Le Vian, a first-time exhibitor, featured a line of chocolate diamond and gold rings.

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“The future of jewellery means giving our customers the chance to interact with those who make it. This closeness will be the true key to success in jewellery. The fact that a trade fair wants to create matching between the expectations of the evolved consumer and producers is an enormous opportunity for us.” – Hank Siegel, Hamilton Jewellers, USA (buyer).

“In Vicenza, we are looking for unique and marvellous jewellery designs, pro-duced by Italian craftsmen that we don’t see in America. Italians are great in every-thing they do, jewellery included. We want to select the very best for our customers, something that my competitors on the other side of the street will not find at JCK, America’s big jewellery show.” – Chris Gra-ham, Graham Jewelers, USA, (buyer).

“Vicenzaoro is a truly international Show. It covers the range of countries where we want to be more visible, from the Middle East to South America and Asia. And it allows us to strengthen contacts with our Italian, European, and American cus-tomers.” – Romy Mehta, CEO, Bapalal Keshavlal, India (Exhibitor).

“We are extremely satisfied, especially having found a space in Pavilion B that is on a level with our products. This gave greater visibility to our brand and helped attract customers that we were then able to host in a truly comfortable space. I am very pleased with the results of this show which have exceeded all of our expec-tations.” – Ricardo Vianna, CEO Vianna Brasil, Brazil (Exhibitor).

Novel mixes of materials were seen in gold, leather, and diamond bracelets by Oromalia.

The popularity of charms continues unabated. Shown here: a gold and gemstone handbag charm by Rosato.

Santagostino featured cameo pendants framed by the brand’s signature look of enamel, gold, and gemstones.

“The January Vicenzaoro is becoming, as expected, increasingly more interna-tional. We have worked with buyers from Europe, Turkey, and Greece, decidedly interesting markets due to their Rus-sian tourism advantage. But we have also had the opportunity to get to know buyers from Eastern Europe, including Azerbaijan, the Czech Republic, and Kazakhstan, markets that are always on the lookout for conspicuous and luxury collections.” – Daniele Bruni, Pasquale Bruni, Italy (Exhibitor).

Also announced at the Winter and Spring editions of Vicenzaoro is the annual invitation-only event, About J. This small and exclusive show will be held in Venice, September 4 to 7, 2013, just before Vicenzaoro Fall, which will open its doors September 7 to 11. (www.vicenzafiera.it, www.aboutj.it)

A delicate and feminine bracelet in gold, diamonds, and enamel by Roberto Coin.

Innovative bracelets, both in form and materials, were seen at Fope, which presented a flexible bracelet made in the brand’s registered Silverfope™, a special alloy of silver and palladium that never tarnishes.

A delicate and feminine bracelet in gold,

Innovative bracelets, both in form and materials, were seen at Fope, which presented a flexible bracelet made in the brand’s registered Silverfope™, a special alloy of silver and palladium that never tarnishes.

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ANTWERP DIAMOND TRADE FAIR:A SPARKLING SUCCESS

Now in its fourth year, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair has become firmly positioned on the annual calendar of the world’s most important global trade shows.


For more than 400 years, diamantaires in Antwerp conducted their business in

private. That all changed in 2010 when they opened the doors of the historical trading halls of the 105-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the even older Antwerp Diamond Club to buyers at the first Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF), who were able to come and see some of the largest selections of polished diamonds in the world. And, every year since 2010, the ADTF has grown in stature as well as in the number of exhibi-tors and buyers.

Now in its fourth edition, the ADTF is still organized on a by-invitation-only basis. The show is sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and has become so well recognized that fair officials lamented the fact that, for this edition, they received far more requests than they could accommo-date. This year, some 500 buyers, includ-ing jewellery retailers, travelled from Asia, Europe, the Middle East, North America, and Russia to see the products of the fair’s 83 Antwerp-based exhibitors.

In addition to the show itself, the fair organized a variety of networking events, including a gala dinner, a visit to a cutting factory, and several breakfast seminars.

Antwerp’s Diamond HeritageFrom a historical point of view, Antwerp

is at the origin of the global diamond trade as it is known today. The slogan “Cut in Antwerp” embodies more than 550 years of diamond heritage, which, for centuries, has been—and still is—a trademark for high quality and craftsmanship.

Today, more than 50 percent of the world’s polished diamonds and 80 per-cent of rough diamonds are traded in the historic city, thus providing customers a wide selection of goods.

Walking the ShowStrolling the corridors in the two historic

diamond halls provided the opportunity to see a variety of amazing stones, ranging in size from a few points to many carats, from whites to intense fancies, and from tradi-tional cuts to unusual shapes such as fish, horses, and other forms.

In terms of custom shapes, Willy Roth, president of Diamantclub van Antwerpen, presented diamonds in the form of horses, fish, and other creative cuts, as well as more traditional diamonds in a wide variety of sizes. Roth also indicated that the fair was good, and that he was happy with the results and the visitor traffic.

In the fancy category, Diarough dis-played a remarkable intense green of over two carats, which “attracted a lot of atten-tion,” confided Marianne Georges, who added that the fair was quite successful for the brand.

Antwerp has a 550-year-old diamond heritage and continues today as one of the world’s leading centres for diamond trading.

This intense green diamond, of over two carats, was displayed by Diarough.

Willy Roth presented a variety of unusual diamond cuts, including this fish weighing over two carats.

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The fourth ADTF attracted more than 500 buyers, who came to see the diamonds presented by 83 Antwerp-based exhibitors.

One of the more interesting booths at the ADTF was that of Beauty Gems, which attracted attention with its display of the company name and logo, completely made of diamonds (what else!). Designed by Liesbeth Cleen, the small stones of the logo together weighed 52.42 carats, while the larger diamonds of the company name weighed 33.41 carats. Cleen added that she was happy with the response to the display as well as with business conduct-ed at the show.

More than 50 percent of the world’s polished diamonds and 80 percent of rough are traded in Antwerp.

Also expressing satisfaction with the fair was Mayank Mehta, of Blooming Star, which deals in white stones of 50 points to 3 carats, polished in Surat. Another dealer carrying stones of similar sizes was DTC sightholder, A.C. Diam, a third-time exhibi-tor. Dhaval Jain explained that most of their cuts are “nice fashion cushions and hearts,” mostly in sizes above 2 carats. “Diamonds have a good future,” Jain added, “and this well-organized fair is a good opportunity to promote diamonds.”

Rosy Blue, selling 1 point to 10 car-ats, was also a third-year participant. Raj Mehta, senior vice president, said they enjoyed a good response. “The ADTF has been improving every year, and offers a great opportunity for Antwerp diamond companies to show what they make. It is really international since we saw delega-tions from Russia, China, and the Middle East, among others.” When asked if syn-thetic diamonds were a threat to the indus-try, Mehta explained, “We are not worried about synthetics. They will find their own

Beauty Gems showcased their company logo and name using more than 85 carats of diamonds.

One of the larger diamonds seen in Antwerp, as it might look in a ring on the hand.

niche. The main concern is disclosure. For most people, natural diamonds are what really count and what they want.”

Another third-year exhibitor, Dalumi fea-tured stones from 10 points to 20 carats. Expressing the brand’s success at the fair, Amir Assael commented, “The ADTF is the best opportunity for us when compared to other fairs, which are a mix of jewellery and fashion. Buyers come here knowing what they want. It is also convenient because buy-ers can go from the fair to our office which is just near the fair.” As to the future of the industry, Assael felt that it follows the general mood of the world, but he stressed that “as long as we have luxury—which will continue—then there will be a demand for diamonds.”

Assael went on to talk about Dalumi’s expansion into jewellery and the brand’s new and successful “Swana” project. He indicated that, through this project, money is given to help a small village in Botswana. “At Dalumi, corporate social responsibility is an important part of our policies and we take it very seriously,” he insisted.

Coming to the fair since the beginning, 80-year-old Nasielski & Son, a family busi-ness now run by the sixth generation, sells a wide variety of diamonds, from small to large stones, mostly round, but they also produce some square and princess cuts. “I think that the ADTF is an excellent idea and also very necessary for us,” said Michel Nasielski. “Despite the challenges facing the industry, diamond demand continues to be worldwide, so the future of the industry is assured.”

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“There are many challenges facing the industry,” commented Serge Zaidman, of S. Muller & Sons. “In 40 years, I have never seen the industry like this. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring, but I do know that there will always be a demand for dia-monds, so we need to remain optimistic.” The company only sells sizes of 1 carat and above. “We cannot afford to do less,” mused Zaidman.

Sarah Dhersin, from fourth-time exhibi-tor, Windiam, said, “It is no secret that the diamond sector is passing a difficult year, challenged by the economic and other global news. People are now reluctant to spend, although some are starting to invest in diamonds.” She added that more and more loose diamond dealers are starting jewellery lines to expand their operations.” Dhersin indicated, however, that “the show was positive for Windiam.”

Present also for the fourth time was Diamex, selling white stones from 20 points to 10 carats. Serge Beller stated that he was “very happy with the show” and noted that most buyers were from Russia, China, the Middle East, and the USA.

Anecdotally, a number of retailers and other buyers from the USA and Europe indicated that the fair offered them new contacts and sources, and importantly, competitive prices. They also appreciated the historic city of Antwerp and being able to discover the charms of its cultural and architectural heritage.

Diamonds from 1 point to many carats, in all colours, shapes and sizes, were available at the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair.

Producing jewellery has been come an extension for some diamond companies, both large and small. Shown here is a necklace created by Antwerp exhibitor J. Pinchasi.

In addition to searching for diamonds, visitors were offered the opportunity to visit a diamond-cutting factory near the ADTF. Here, we were shown a variety of tech-niques, using sophisticated instrumenta-tion, to determine the best cut for a stone. Peter De Deyne, Factory Manager for AMC Manufacturing Antwerp, kindly showed

visitors not only the equipment used to an-alyze the diamonds, but also talked about the men and women who must ultimately use their experience and expertise in mak-ing the final decisions on how the diamond will eventually be facetted.

The 2014 edition of the Antwerp Dia-mond Trade Fair will also be held at the end of January. For more details and exact dates, to be announced, visit their website at www.antwerpdiamondfair.com.

Peter De Deyne, Factory Manager, AMC Manufacturing Antwerp, conducted an informative tour of the cutting facil-ity for visitors to the ADTF.

While human expertise and skill is still essential, diamonds today are largely analyzed and cut by computers.

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n Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre

n Exhibitors : 85 Antwerp diamond companies.

n Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.

n www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

Ann. 205x265mm Trends & Colours 2014.indd 1 3/05/13 11:52

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An amber bracelet, made with gold and diamonds by NAC Amber.

AMBERIF 2013: 20 YEARS OF AMAZING AMBERThe world’s largest and most important trade fair devoted to amber celebrated its 20th anniversary in March, and, interestingly, the film Jurassic Park, which stimulated renewed

interest in this living gem two decades ago, also feted its 20th year.


This year’s Amberif show, held in March 2013, was the backdrop for

a wide range of creativity and designs showcased by more than 450 exhibitors. Held for the first time in the new and very modern Amber Expo, the fair’s exhibitors came largely from Poland, although 14 other nations were also represented.Since most of the world’s amber comes from the Baltic region, the beautiful and hospitable city of Gdansk provided the perfect venue to display creations made from this 40-million-year-old gem.

“The first Amberif had 49 exhibitors. Today, the number has increased to around 450,” said Amberif Project Direc-tor Ewa Rachon. “This year, nearly 6500 trade buyers visited Amberif, from 54 nations.” Post-fair surveys indicate that exhibitors and visitors were very pleased with the results, especially in light of the snowstorms that had brought Europe to a standstill the day before the opening.

One of the visitors, who braved the snow and ice, was Gina Giadrosich, of Texas-based Amber Way Jewelry. “I started in the amber business some 20 years ago and discovered the second edition of Amberif. Since then, I have come yearly to Gdansk for the fair, miss-ing only one in two decades. Amberif is a great place to meet my longstanding clients, and to look for new materials and make new contacts. We sell a wide range of jewellery, priced from around $30 for simple silver and amber pieces to around $1500 for high-end designer pieces in gold. Of the more than 3000 designs we carry, the most popular are tri-colour pieces in sterling set with green, honey, and lemon amber.”

Parallel to the fair were a scientific-oriented amber symposium, the Amber Design Awards, Trend Book 2013+, and

a spectacular Amber and Fashion Gala, combining impressive fashion with cre-ative amber jewellery. And, to ensure buy-ers’ confidence, the fair again sponsored a special laboratory to test amber for its authenticity, free of charge, under the guidance of Dr. Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka, of Gdansk University of Technology.

Types of Amber Many types of amber could be seen at

the fair, from the natural gem to stones that had been modified by certain accept-able treatments. The most common ac-ceptable treatment is a heating process to obtain transparency, or the desired co-gnac colour, or the glittery “scales” found when air bubbles trapped in the amber burst during heating. For clarification pur-poses, the International Amber Associa-tion (IAA) developed the following clas-sification for Baltic amber (Succinite).

1. Natural Baltic Amber, which has un-dergone only mechanical treatment, e.g. grinding, cutting, turning, or polishing, without change to its natural properties.

2. Modified Baltic Amber, which has been subjected only to thermal or high-pressure treatment, which changes its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and colour, or shaped under similar conditions out of one nug-get, previously cut to the required size.

3. Reconstructed (Pressed) Baltic Am-ber, made of Baltic amber pieces pressed under high temperature and under high pressure without additional components.

4. Bonded Baltic Amber, consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified, or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded to-gether with the use of the smallest pos-sible amount of a binding agent. As in all gemstone transactions and treatments, disclosure to the client is important.

Nuggets of natural amber, showing different textures, colours, shapes, and sizes (photo: IAA).


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Just as in the gemstone sector, how-ever, a minority of dealers try to pass off imitations as authentic amber, includ-ing glass, plastic, synthetic resins, and natural or modified sub-fossil resins (copal). Amber imitations are not new and have been around for hundreds of years, therefore dealing with a trusted company is important. The IAA has es-tablished a system of certification for companies, thus offering a guarantee of authenticity (www.amber.org.pl).

Inclusions and DesignsWhile inclusions are not generally ap-

preciated in other gemstones, they are often desirable in amber, especially if the inclusions are insects. “Thanks to amber, we can peek into the past, touch it, feel it, find ourselves in a reality that existed 40 million years ago. This is the sole oppor-tunity created by nature where we are able to observe flora and fauna of the ancient world. We become witnesses to events that took place millions of years ago. Looking inside amber, we can dis-cover The Lost World,” mused Andrzej Wiszniewski, owner of Amber Planet, a brand specializing in amber with inclu-sions, often set in silver to make attrac-tive pendants and other jewellery.

Insects aside, design creativity and innovation were not lacking at Amberif. Among the brands presenting interesting innovations was Ambermix. Along with other collections, the company introduced a line of butterflies whose multi-coloured wings are made of a single piece of am-ber using a technique that took three years to develop. Robert Rogala, owner, explained: “Natural amber is found as a lemon colour in nature, and this is what we use to make the butterfly’s wings. The stone is heated for 24 hours at 300oC to obtain a 0.1-mm thick cognac colour on the surface. After another 4 hours of heating, the surface colour changes to cherry. After a further 6 to 8 hours, the surface colour changes to black. When the top and bottom 0.1-mm layers are filed down, the lemon colour is again revealed. The amber slices used for the wings are then carved, heated to gain the right colour, and polished in certain areas to achieve the right design.”

Many brands offered simple pieces, in a rich palette of hues, set in silver, while others displayed more complex amber creations set in gold with diamond ac-cents. Among the latter was NAC Amber. With three basic collections, the brand’s designs range from minimalist to clas-sical to highly sophisticated. One of its more striking pieces was a remarkable bracelet in reddish amber set in gold with diamond accents. Designed by owner, Marcin Wesolowski, it combines gold, simplicity of detail, and a subtly of form, which made it a hit with buyers. “We sold all that we brought to the show,” mused Marta Wesolowski, the designer’s wife.

Ambermoda, another family enterprise, offered several collections, including one comprised of tiny squares or beads of amber attached in clusters set in silver to make interesting pieces. Other lines fea-tured larger pieces of natural amber, de-signed by Mariusz Gliwinski, who works with wife, Danuta, the amber buyer, and daughter Gosia, who takes care of mar-keting. Ambermoda’s small workshop and showroom are near Gdansk.

The largest jewellery manufacturer in Poland, S&A Jewellery Design, founded in 1992, employing some 200 people, showcased a range of silver and amber designs. “Our pieces are market-specific,” said Dominika Czechowska, Managing Director, “since some countries prefer different colours or shapes.” She added that S&A also sells to shopping channels and has distribution around the world, including 70 outlets in China.

Necklace made of cubes of amber set with silver by Ambermoda.

Ring with three colours of amber set in silver by S&A Jewellery Design.

Above: Inclusion of insects in amber. Below: Inclusions create a “face” in raw amber. Samples provided by Amber Planet.

Butterfly with amber wings made of a single piece of

amber by Ambermix.

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Another leading company in silver and amber fashion jewellery, plus gold-plated pieces, is Zimmermann Design. “We car-ry a wide range of products,” stated Ditta Zimmermann, “including convertible jew-ellery, and our new Solaris line made of facetted amber.” She added that “clients in Europe prefer smaller silver and amber pieces, while Chinese customers prefer large honey-tone pendants.

Facetted amber was also seen at Art 7,owned by Wojciech Kalandyk, a company selling a wide range of amber set in silver, as well as an impressive array of chunky natural amber and silver pendants.

In terms of chunky natural amber, the signature style of Danuta Burczik-Kruczkowska was seen in necklaces and bracelets made of large, unheated, natural beads of varying sizes and shapes. “The beads get ‘polished’ as they are worn,” smiled Ms. Burczik. Prices for these large statement pieces range from a few hun-dred dollars up to several thousand. The company also creates small sculptures such as a tongue-in-cheek amber whistle pendant on a cord.

Amber sculptures and jewellery were also seen at Studio DF. “We look at a piece of amber and then discuss with our silversmith how to create the best design, whether for jewellery or for an art object. We also make have small collections of unique pieces, some set with venge or ebony wood,” said Donata Kuryłek.

Small sculptures of Buddhas, ani-mals, and other motifs were on display at Ryszard Kulczynski’s Design & Style. “In addition to our honey-coloured bead necklaces, our elephants are especially sought after by our Chinese clients,” said Kulczynski.

Artistic forms and beads in all sizes and shapes were the order of the day at Eva Stone, owned by Ewa Szyszko, and Bizuteria Wasowska, owned by Malgorzata Wasowska. Both booths also displayed a large variety of silver and am-ber jewellery.


Danuta Burczik-Kruczkowska wears one of her large natural amber necklaces.

The Chinese ConnectionWalking the show, and listening to

comments from exhibitors, it was clear that buyers from China were out in force. “At Amberif 2013, Chinese buyers are the fourth largest group,” stated Michal Kosier, Vice-President of the IAA. “Their attendance and orders have been grow-ing over the last few years, as has the media interest in China.”

Nancy Chui, IAA ambassador to China, added that Chinese interest in amber dates back more than 3,000 years, when it was originally used for its medicinal proper-ties, then later decoration and adornment. “Today, Chinese consumers appreciate amber as a natural stone for its variety of colours, shades, and inclusions, in addition to its therapeutic qualities,” explained Ms. Chui. “Amber is often compared to jade as being from the ‘old days’ plus its ‘ben-eficial’ effect on the wearer. Both stones are facing the same challenges in their jewellery applications: How to remove the ‘old-fashioned’ image and appeal to mod-ern Chinese customers? It seems that amber, with its wider presence globally, has advanced much faster than jade in re-establishing itself in modern jewellery with innovative designs.”

Clearly, the attraction for amber is glob-al. Whether the fascination for this living gem comes from art or jewellery or its medicinal properties, amber will continue to delight for many eons to come.

Amberif 2014 will be held March 19 to 22. The next Ambermart will take place in Gdansk, August 29 to 31, 2013. (www.amberif.amberexpo.pl)

Pendant in gold-plated satin silver by Zimmermann Design.

Amber and silver peacock art object by Studio DF.

Silver and amber brooch by Bizuteria Wasowska.

Facetted amber and gold pendant by Art 7.

Amber and silver pendant by Eva Stone.

Amber elepant by Design & Style.

(www.amberif.amberexpo.pl)

www.intergem.de

2013October 3 - 6

INTERNATIONALE FACHMESSE FÜR EDELSTEINE, EDELSTEINSCHMUCK UND EDELSTEINOBJEKTEINTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR GEMS, JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONE OBJECTS

ALL ABOUT AMBER:INTERNATIONAL AMBER RESEARCHER

SYMPOSIUMHeld in conjunction with the Amberif fair, at the newly opened and very modern Amber Expo, the International Amber Researcher Symposium featured a variety

of speakers discussing a range of amber-related topics.

By Barbara Wheat

A M B E R S Y M P O S I U M

Organized by the International Amber Association in cooperation with the Uni-

versity of Gdansk and the Polish Academy of Sciences Museum of The Earth, Warsaw, the symposium was opened by the director of the academic seminar, Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, The Museum of the Earth, Polish Academy of Sciences, Warsaw: “These proceedings, with more than 30 presenters, will enrich our knowl-edge about amber coming from contributors of such unique and diverse backgrounds.”

Entitled “Amber: Deposits, Collections, The Market,” the symposium attracted speakers from many parts of Poland, Lithuania, Russia, Ukraine, as well as China, France, Germany, Lebanon, the United Kingdom, and others. Topics ranged from highly scientific lectures to more historic and artistic presentations.

On the scientific side, Barbara Slodkowska, Polish Geological Institute, presented her team’s research on the formation of Baltic amber. Other presenters shared research on Raman spectroscopy and various instru-ments used in the testing and identification of amber.

The topic of mining Baltic amber deposits in Poland was addressed in a poster by Anna Malka and Regina Kramarska of the National Research Institute, Marine Biology Branch, in Gdansk. They noted that amber deposits from Holocene sediments have been found on the ground’s surface or at shallow depths in Gdansk, and that mining at deeper levels took place in 1868 in the area of Stegna, Poland. Current mining techniques include the hydraulic method, which is being used in Gdansk today.

In addition to the many presentations dealing with Baltic amber, speakers also pre-sented research on amber found in Lebanon and Burma as well as Dominican amber.

Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz and her colleagues presented new research findings of bird traces in Dominican amber, including eggshells, feathers, down, and even micro-bones.

Dany Azar, Faculty of Sciences II, Depart-ment of Natural Sciences, Lebanese Uni-versity, discussed state-of-the-art research on fossil resin. He attributed advances in amber research to tools such as x-ray

synchrotron tomography and the newer gen-eration CT-scanners, which allow the study of the internal anatomy of amber via non-destructive means.

Guanghai Shi, State Key Laboratory of Geological Processes and Mineral Resourc-es, China University of Geosciences, Beijing, shed light on Burmese amber, known as burmite, which is the only Cretaceous am-ber deposit in the world being commercially exploited. Shi indicated that it is also the first such deposit to be studied scientifically.

Several speakers covered topics on am-ber art, amber jewellery design, and amber collections such as the Hoffeins Inclusion Collection and the amber collection at the Malbork Castle Museum. Symposium dele-gates were hosted by Malbork Castle for an interesting guided tour after the conference.

The International Amber Researcher Symposium will be held again next year in Gdansk in conjunction with the Amberif fair.

For a list of speakers, visit: amberif.amberexpo.pl/title.SYMPOSIUM.pid.1594.html

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Insects in amber continue to fascinate scientists, who use them to glimpse into the past. Shown here is an example from the Polish brand, Amber Planet.

Symposium participants, left to right: Jacek Szwedo, Department of Palaeozoology, Museum and Institute of Zoology, Polish Academy of Sciences; Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, Polish Academy of Sciences Museum of the Earth, in Warsaw; Ewa Wagner- Wysiecka, Chemical Faculty, Gdansk University of Technology.

For registration visit www.iijs.org

For details contact: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council

Tel : +91-22 4354 1800 Fax: +91-22 2652 4769Email: [email protected]

Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre (BCEC)8

AUG

12

THAILAND’S WORLD OF SILVER Since Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of silver jewellery, it was only logical that the theme of the 51st edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair would be

the “World of Silver.”


Silver did indeed dominate at the recent Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF),

held this past February. “It is time we showed off our silver masterpieces,” mused Somchai Phornchindarak, President of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association and the Gems, Jewelry, and Precious Metal Confed-eration of Thailand. “Silver is clean and styl-ish, and offers unlimited imaginative design. The variety of Thai silver jewellery has been widely recognized in the global industry thanks to Thai craftsmanship and traditional savoir-faire. With the ‘World of Silver’ cam-paign, we want to make people aware of the fact that they can come to Thailand for their silver needs.”

In addition to silver pieces by established brands, a special exhibition of silver jewellery at the Design Pavilion Trend 2014 show-cased a wide variety of creations by young designers from the Poh Chang Academy of Art. Under the theme “World of Silver to AEC,” 150 students submitted designs, which were inspired by the cultures of the ASEAN nations. In fact, ASEAN seemed be on everyone’s mind as Thailand prepares to join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015. With 600 million people, this makes the AEC one of the largest consumer blocks in the world. [The first AEC jewellery summit was held in Thailand last September, and is seen as the first step toward unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major player in the global gems and jewellery industry.]

While silver stole the spotlight at the fair and in the gala fashion shows, the gold and gem sectors were certainly not ignored. Thailand ranks 11th in the world for gold jewellery exports, and is the 3rd largest exporter of facetted gemstones. This is due in part to cooperation between the govern-ment and private industry. In his address at the opening ceremony, Nattawut Saikuar, Deputy Minister of Commerce, commented

that this “joint public/private cooperation will continue to sustain Thailand’s status as an international leader in the gem and jewellery industry and will eventually bring continuous growth to the Thai sector.” He also stressed the economic importance of the industry, explaining that the gems and jewellery sec-tor contributes more than US$13.1 billion in export revenue to the nation, despite the weak world economy, and that it provides massive employment.

Facilitating BusinessAmong the government supported initia-

tives are the Zero-VAT pavilion, where rough gemstones from around the world are sold free of the 7-percent value added tax, and a duty free zone for manufacturing and trad-ing. “Gemopolis is a world-class industrial estate specialized in servicing the gems and jewellery trade,” explained Phornchindarak. “It is a tax-free area, which benefits local and foreign traders, offering a wide array of non-tax privileges. International companies in the

The tiara/brooch from the fashion gala, made

of gemstones and silver, by Blue River.


ASEAN nations. In fact, ASEAN seemed be on everyone’s mind as Thailand prepares to join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015. With 600 million people, this makes the AEC one of the largest consumer blocks in the world. [The first AEC jewellery summit was held in Thailand last September, and is seen as the first step toward unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major player in the global gems

While silver stole the spotlight at the fair and in the gala fashion shows, the gold and gem sectors were certainly not ignored. Thailand ranks 11th in the world for gold jewellery exports, and is the 3rd largest

foreign traders, offering a wide array of non-tax privileges. International companies in the

The tiara/brooch from the fashion gala, made

of gemstones and silver, by Blue River.

that the theme of the 51st edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair would be

SSheld this past February. “It is time we showed off our silver masterpieces,” mused Somchai Phornchindarak, President of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association and the Gems, Jewelry, and Precious Metal Confederation of Thailand. “Silver is clean and stylish, and offers unlimited imaginative design. The variety of Thai silver jewellery has been widely recognized in the global industry thanks to Thai craftsmanship and traditional savoir-faire. With the ‘World of Silver’ campaign, we want to make people aware of the fact that they can come to Thailand for their silver needs.”

In addition to silver pieces by established brands, a special exhibition of silver jewellery at the Design Pavilion Trend 2014 showcased a wide variety of creations by young designers from the Poh Chang Academy of Art. Under the theme “World of Silver to AEC,” 150 students submitted designs, which were inspired by the cultures of the ASEAN nations. In fact, ASEAN seemed be on everyone’s mind as Thailand prepares to join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015. With 600 million people, this makes the AEC one of the largest consumer blocks in the world. [The first AEC jewellery summit was held in Thailand last September, and is seen as the first step toward unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major player in the global gems and jewellery industry.]

While silver stole the spotlight at the fair and in the gala fashion shows, the gold and gem sectors were certainly not ignored. Thailand ranks 11th in the world for gold jewellery exports, and is the 3rd largest jewellery exports, and is the 3rd largest exporter of facetted gemstones. This is due in part to cooperation between the government and private industry. In his address at the opening ceremony, Nattawut Saikuar, Deputy Minister of Commerce, commented

After the official opening of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, a gala fashion event showcased a variety of exquisite jewellery, created by a number of respected Thai brands, under the theme “Angels of Silver.” One of the highlights of this fashion parade of priceless pieces was the luxurious parure from Blue River, worn by Thailand’s top model Sririta Jensen.

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gems and jewellery sector are keenly inter-ested in the vast capacities that Gemopolis offers.”

Fair organizers are also negotiating with the Thai Government to introduce a duty-free system for items brought into Thailand specifically for the Bangkok Fair. Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of the BGJF, stated that his goal was to have this duty-free facility in operation for the September 2013 fair. This would effectively make the BGJF a free port and comparable to fairs in other duty-free locations in Asia.

The Bangkok fair is, however, first and foremost a trade show, and was organized to make buying and selling as easy as pos-sible between the 3000 exhibitors and the nearly 40,000 visiting buyers from more than 100 countries. As evidence of the fair’s international appeal, 300 of its exhibitors came from overseas, from 36 other nations, including the USA and Europe.

Among other initiatives to facilitate busi-ness was the “Gems & Jewelry Factory Out-let”, which saw brisk business as the BGJF cash-and-carry market, where all categories of jewels, even from major companies, were available at competitive prices. Continuing its popularity was the “Business Matching Service,” an online sourcing project that enabled buyers to locate specific suppliers for specific products, and then to meet them at the show.

The “Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation” exhibi-tion has now become an essential part of the BGJF, and offered visitors a chance to see fine jewellery bearing the “Ploi Thai” country brand. Each piece on display was designed and created by some of Thailand’s finest artisans for the event and showcases the creativity, capacities, and craftsmanship of Thai manufacturers. The “Design Pavilion” featured upcoming trends in jewellery.

While some Thai companies brand their own jewellery, many others serve as a man-ufacturer for some of the world’s largest well-known brands, as well as many smaller brands. On these pages are examples of a variety of Thai companies, selling both branded and non-branded pieces, in both gold and silver.

Ruby and diamond earrings by Princess

Gems.

Comments from BuyersVisitors to the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry

Fair offered various opinions on how they found the show and its suppliers.

“Apart from Thailand, we only order from Italy. We find the fair to be very good and come every time. On this trip, we met 20 exhibitors and will order about US$50,000 worth of product. The Business Matching Service provided a very nice set-up to make good contacts. It helped save time to source reliable suppliers that match our specific requirements.” – Margarethe Leeb, Leeb & Leschanz Gmbh, Austria.

JNB Mfg.

Comments from Buyers

Gemstone, pearl, and silver earrings and necklace by Dhevan Dara.

gems and jewellery sector are keenly inter-ested in the vast capacities that Gemopolis

Fair organizers are also negotiating with the Thai Government to introduce a duty-free system for items brought into Thailand specifically for the Bangkok Fair. Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of the BGJF, stated that his goal was to have this duty-free facility in operation for the September 2013 fair. This would effectively make the BGJF a free port and comparable to fairs in other

The Bangkok fair is, however, first and foremost a trade show, and was organized to make buying and selling as easy as pos-sible between the 3000 exhibitors and the nearly 40,000 visiting buyers from more

Silver, gemstone, and diamond pendant by JNB Mfg.JNB Mfg.

Ruby and diamond necklace in silver by Beauty Gems.

Ruby and diamond ring by Gem Production.

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“This is my first time to the show and I am very impressed. There are a lot of prod-ucts. I met more than fifty companies and am very interested in about ten of them. The Business Matching Service allowed me to meet with many exclusive suppliers that serve my needs, which would be difficult just walking the show. My order will be around US$100,000.” – Alan Maldanado, Alhema Jewelry, Mexico.

“I have visited the Bangkok show many times. Thailand is my preferred choice of sup-pliers.” – Michelle Stallard, Michelle Stallard, United Kingdom.

“The Business Matching Service is great for buyers visiting the show. You set up all the meetings, and the suppliers come to see me, knowing what I want. I plan to buy from Thailand about US$100,000 worth of prod-uct.” – Reza Piroznia, Jewellery Jamboree Gems, Canada.

“Thailand is an excellent source for gems and jewellery and I have been visiting the Bangkok show for the last ten years. This is the first time I used the Business Match-ing Service and it helped me in locating new suppliers. My purchases from Thailand will increase about 20 percent to US$1.2 million this time.” Aseem P. Singh, Links Inc., USA.

The 52nd edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair will take place September 6-9, 2013. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)


Facetted yellow and blue sapphires and rubies from TC Mining. Gold and gemstone bracelet by Pranda Jewelry.

Silver, gemstone, and pearl ring by Goldlip.

“I have been attending the Bangkok Fair for 3-4 years now. Usually my company in Hong Kong looks for fashion and silver jewel-lery here. What I like most about this fair is that everything is located in one big hall, so it’s very straightforward planning and easy to find things without going up and down too many floors.” – Miroslav Polak, Sales Manager of Preciosa International (H.K.), Hong Kong.

“The Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is fantastic and has a great range of products for our selection. In addition, the Business Matching Service was also very helpful and efficiently set up. We found that Thai exhibi-tors are very creative and offer us innova-tive designs. We plan to start our order from Thailand at around AU$10,000.” – Bob and Ali Lawrence, Alibaba’s Treasures, Australia.

“I am a small retailer with a shop in Bei-rut, and visit only a fair each year. This is my second time at the show. I like it a lot as it offers many suppliers and it is very easy to find things I am looking for, especially silver jewellery with more strange and edgy de-signs.” – Farah Yamout, AL Farah Modern Company, Lebanon.

Sapphire, gold, and diamond earrings by Beverley K.

Emerald and diamond ring and necklace by LS Oriental.

“I have been attending the Bangkok Fair for 3-4 years now. Usually my company in

-lery here. What I like most about this fair is that everything is located in one big hall, so it’s very straightforward planning and easy to find things without going up and down too many floors.” – Miroslav Polak, Sales Manager of

“The Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is fantastic and has a great range of products for our selection. In addition, the Business Matching Service was also very helpful and

-tors are very creative and offer us innova-tive designs. We plan to start our order from

Silver, gemstone, and pearl ring by Goldlip.

Company, Lebanon.

Carved tiger by KdeCraft, a specialist in sculptures of various motifs.

Gems, Canada.

Facetted yellow and blue sapphires

Silver, gemstone, and pearl parure by Pochai.

6-9, 2013. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)

Gold and gemstone bracelet by Pranda Jewelry.

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CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS [ad BGJF 52nd] new 2013.pdf 1 3/5/2556 15:09:03

HKIJS: 30 YEARS & COUNTING A milestone was reached in March as the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show celebrated its 30th birthday, and showcased jewellery, gemstones, and

related products from around the world.


Organized by the Hong Kong Trade De-velopment Council (HKTDC), the Hong

Kong International Jewellery Show (HKIJS)celebrated this important anniversary with a healthy dose of optimism, especially given the record number of exhibitors and buyers. Jack So, HKTDC Chairman, commented on the growing interest in Hong Kong: “As the global economic balance continues to shift to Asia, Hong Kong is the ideal business plat-form from which to access the myriad region-al opportunities now available in the growing ASEAN area and the Chinese mainland.”

The growing numbers of non-Asian com-panies exhibiting at the HKIJS clearly seem to understand his message. This is per-haps why the Italian pavilion is one of the largest pavilions at the event with 150 ex-hibitors, and why officials from the Fiera di Vicenza were also in attendance. Corrado Facco, Executive Director, Paola De Luca, Creative Director and forecaster of the fair’s Trendvision report, and Paola Guida, Italian Trade Commissioner in Hong Kong, organized a press conference on the first day to review the significance of the Italians’ involvement. “In 2012, $658 million of Italian jewellery was exported to Hong Kong,” said Guida, adding that Italy was the sixth largest supplier of jewellery to Hong Kong.

The Italians were not the only ones look-ing to attract the attention of the record-breaking number of 42,000 buyers from 140 nations, including an upsurge in visitors from emerging nations. In total, the fair hosted 3,300 exhibitors from 49 countries and re-gions, including first-timers Cyprus, Leba-non, and Peru, along with 17 group pavilions and seven international trade organization pavilions—among them the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and the Israel Diamond Institute, understandable since Hong Kong has long been one of Asia’s leading diamond trading centres. (Last year, the city’s diamond trade exceeded HK$240 million.)

All of this suggests rising confidence in the global jewellery industry, an observation confirmed by an independent survey of 800 show participants. Commissioned by the HKTDC, the survey showed that 85 percent of buyers interviewed expect a growing or steady turnover this year, while 76 percent of exhibitors believe that the market this year is better than or comparable to last year.

Sapphire and diamond “Flamboyance” floral brooch by Green G. (Hong Kong).

Yellow and white diamond earrings in gold by Temptations (Hong Kong).


Sapphire, diamond, and gold tassel earrings by MVee (Hong Kong).

Model wearing diamond jewellery by K.A.R.P.

(Hong Kong).

Colourful diamond, gemstone, and gold “Peacock” ring from E&V Jewellery (Hong Kong).

Diamond, tsavorite, and gold pendant by Vida (Hong Kong).

better than or comparable to last year.

Sapphire and diamond “Flamboyance” floral brooch by Green G. (Hong Kong).

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A Glimpse into “Asian” DesignThe majority of HKIJS exhibitors were

from the Asian region: Singapore, Japan, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea, China, and of course Hong Kong. Their original and creative designs spanned a wide range of styles and materials. Florals and animal motifs were quite popular, while others featured rivers of diamonds and sumptuous suites. As in the global market, silver designs and lacy creations addressed the economic concerns of the day and the high metals prices. Below is a glimpse into only a few of the many creative Asian com-panies exhibiting at the HKIJS.

Hong Kong designer brands offered a wide assortment of jewellery, from simple to sophisticated, in all types of gemstones and metals. Temptations lives up to its name with luxurious diamond and coloured gemstone

parures. MVee offers a wide assortment of styles and collections, while Vida targets a more youthful audience. K.A.R.P. specializes in dazzling diamond pieces, and elegant and colourful creations are on the menu at E&VJewellery. Sabina Lee, the creative force be-hind Green G., has a green thumb when it comes to her garden of flowers, leaves, and other luxurious pieces in diamonds and gems. Designer Winda Lee, of Eden, who sells mainly in China, produces a variety of pieces, including animal motifs. Kate Po, of Kusion, likes to mix different elements together.

The HKIJS featured a number of design-ers from other parts of Asia. Manila-based Jewelmer continues to impress with its glorious South Sea golden pearl jewellery. Taiwanese Helen Chang’s Bel Tung brand focuses on florals and butterflies. Singa-pore’s Yang Lay tends toward bigger and bolder designs in silver with coloured gems. Gina/Vajra from Korea interprets flowers in precious metals. First-time exhibitor from Indonesia, Giana Nirmala Nubia’s large mas-sive pieces caught everyone’s attention.

Thailand and Japan were well repre-sented. From Thailand, the dynamic duo of Kavant and Sharart joined the HKIJS for the first time and wowed visitors with their creative selections, as did long-time partici-pant Zorab with its bold and colourful pieces. From Japan, Sekikazu featured his signature enamel and silver lines, while Jizai/Kodamashowcased the brand’s skill in crafting real-istic, fully articulated insect brooches. Hiroko Saito’s H-Iron drew attention with her unusual metal combinations, as did the innovative dancing diamond pendants from Crossfor, while Okurado captures the delicate beauty of Japanese cherry blossoms.

istic, fully articulated insect brooches. Hiroko Saito’s metal combinations, as did the innovative dancing diamond pendants from

Silver and smoky quartz rings by Kusion (Hong Kong).

Realistic flower brooch in silver and pearl by Gina/Vajra (Korea).

South Sea golden pearl, diamond, and gold bracelet by Jewelmer (Philippines).

Model wearing gold and gemstone jewellery by Giana Nirmala Nubia (Indonesia).

precious metals. First-time exhibitor from Indonesia, sive pieces caught everyone’s attention.

Thailand and Japan were well represented. From Thailand, the dynamic duo of Kavantthe first time and wowed visitors with their creative selections, as did long-time participant From Japan,

Temptationsluxurious diamond and coloured gemstone

Pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by Kavant (Thailand).

Diamond, ruby, Diamond, ruby, emerald, and gold emerald, and gold jewellery by Eden jewellery by Eden

(Hong Kong).(Hong Kong).

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Silver and enamel pendant by Sekikazu (Japan).

Gold earrings by H-Iron (Japan).

Buyers’ Comments “This is our eighth year attending this

show. The HKIJS fair is a good place to see new materials and designs for inspirations, and also to make new contacts.” – Leslie Therriault, Merchandiser, Delmar Interna-tional, Canada.

“We have been coming to the HKIJS for many years because this show provides good variety, and we find the right suppliers here. We are particularly interested in the jewellery products offered by exhibitors from China and Hong Kong.” – Daniel Espinosa de los Monteros, Director, Daniel Espinosa Jewelry, Mexico.

Helping BusinessTo help improve business and how it is

conducted, the HKTDC continually looks for ways to improve and streamline transac-tions. This year, it introduced the “Small-Order Zone (SMO),” designed to keep pace with the changing needs of buyers. With quantities ranging from 5 to 500, the SMO offered a wide range of quality products from reliable suppliers, below US$1,000 per piece. The zone attracted more than 4,600 buyer visits and created about 8,000 enquiries.

Another very helpful addition, especially for small businesses, was the launch of the Pay App, a new mobile point-of-sale pay-ment solution, created by Visa in concert with the HKTDC. “The whole phenomenon in the USA was the trigger for the launch,” explained Tom Tobin, Visa country manager for Hong Kong and Macau. “Like America’s Square reader, the Pay App is a small device that affixes to smart phones to accept credit card swipes.” This simple and cost-effective service facilitates and streamlines transac-tions, while maintaining a record for both sellers and buyers.

“This is my first visit to this show. I came here to look for new suppliers and to see what other manufacturers are doing. So far, I have placed orders worth around US$10,000, while some are still under negotiation. It is a great show, covering the whole spectrum of the jewellery industry. Definitely, I’ll visit this show again next year.” – Jaslena Ahmad, Managing Director, Style Ventures, Sdn Bhd, Malaysia.

“It is our second time visit to this show. It is a perfect venue for us to find new prod-ucts and keep abreast of the design trends and production technologies. So far, we have placed orders for US$1 million worth of dia-mond and yellow gold jewellery. The demand for diamond and yellow gold jewellery is increasing in India because our consumers like to buy diamonds and gold as an invest-ment.” – Prasanna Kumar, Director, Nathella (with seven stores), India.

The next HKIJS will be held in March 2014. See their website for further details at www.hktdc.com.

Multi-gemstone and gold pendant by Zorab (Thailand).

Delicate gold pendant with centre “Dancing Stone” that twirls by means of a patented mechanism by Crossfor (Japan).

Fully articulated gold and diamond dragonfly brooches by Jizai Kodama (Japan).

Designer Yang Lay with model wearing silver and

amethyst back pendant (Singapore).

Diamond, gold, and enamel hair pin by Okurado (Japan).

Black onyx, diamond, and gold earrings by

Sharart (Thailand).

Black opal, gemstone, and gold

butterfly brooch by Bel Tung

(Taiwan).

mechanism by Crossfor

72

Sc an th is QR code wi th your smartphone to preview North Amer ic a’s essent ia l industry event and le arn about our

Internat ional buyer programs and trave l ass is t ance .

R E G I S T E R T O D A Y : w w w . j c k O n l I n E . c O m / l A S v E G A S

M A y 3 1 – J u N e 3 , 2 0 1 3

L a s V e g a s , N VM a N d a L a y B a y R e s o R t & C a s i N o

JewelRyShowcASINg youR PASSIoN foR


DAZZLING IN DOHAIn 2003, the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition began modestly in the ballroom of a hotel.

Over the last decade, it has grown into one of the industry’s premiere events, attracting the biggest and brightest names in the global jewellery and watchmaking sector.


Organized by the Qatar Tourism Authority (QTA), the Doha Jewellery and Watches

Exhibition (DJWE) opened to the public on February 26, showcasing more than 530 of the world’s finest jewellery and watch brands, spread out over 15,000 square-meters.

There was no question that Doha was dazzling during the six-day event, which fea-tured the world’s highest concentration of luxury jewellery, timepieces, and objets d’art under one enormous roof. It seemed to com-bine the best of Basel and Geneva’s SIHH, with the addition of a number of impressive regional brands.

“The event has established itself as one of the most important specialized regional and international exhibitions in the jewel-lery and luxury goods industry,” stated QTA chairman, Issa bin Mohamed al-Mohannadi. “This year we are delighted to welcome 26 exhibitors, that represent many of the world’s best known and most prestigious gemstone, jewellery, and watch brands.”

Of these 26 exhbitors, most are large re-tailers in Qatar, which then feature their own groups of clients. The main pavilions includ-ed Al Fardan Jewellery, Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewellery, Amiri Gems, Fifty One East, Blue Salon, Al Majed Jewellery, Al Muftah Jewel-lery, and Paris Gallery, among others.

By the end of the show, more than 50,000 people had visited the exhibition from around the region, including the UAE, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, and Oman, making the DJWE such an important event that many brands come to Doha to launch their global premieres. This year, one such company was Chopard. Co-owner Caroline Scheufele was on hand at the Geneva brand’s booth in the spacious Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion to de-but its La Strada watch collection. “Chopard has been working with Al Fardan for more than 40 years,” said Scheufele. “Both fathers started working together and the children grew up knowing each other. Since both

are family companies, this creates greater synergy and closer ties.” She went on to say that the region is an important market for Chopard, which is why she came to Doha to launch the new line. “When I began mak-ing sketches of La Strada, I was completely caught up in a whirl of classic cinema-related images,” she mused, adding thather great appreciation of Fellini inspired her to name the line after one of his films. The brand also featured high jewellery pieces as well as haute horlogerie watches.

Four of the Main PavilionsChopard was one of five dozen brands in

the Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion. A few of the others were Fabergé, Harry Winston, Masri-era, Piaget, Carrera y Carrera, and first-timer La Reina, as well as the company’s extra-ordinary collection of natural pearl jewellery, showcased in the Gallery Al Tawash. Created in 1954, Al Fardan Jewellery has grown into one of the Gulf’s most renowned pearl and jewellery retailers.

With origins also dating back more than a half-century, Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewel-lery hosted nearly three dozen major brands, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Richard Mille, Pomellato, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Aaron Basha, and Graff (which had its own large stand outside of the main pavilion).

Another impressive pavilion was orga-nized by Al Majed Jewellery, a major Qatari retailer whose origins can also be traced back to pearl trading in the early 20th cen-tury. The Al Majed family still owns one of the world’s most valuable collections of nat-ural pearl jewellery, on display at the show. Among the retailer’s four dozen brands were Autore, Crivelli, Ivanka Trump, Nanis, Rober-to Coin, Zydo, and first-timer Sicis Jewels. (Sicis Jewels’ parent company created the spectacular gold mosaics for Doha’s Golden Mosque located in the new cultural centre.)

Created more than seven decades ago, Fifty-One East, directed by Bader Abdullah Al-Darwish, is the longest-standing retail chain in Qatar, selling many luxury lifestyle

The Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2013, with 530 of the world’s finest brands participating, and more than 50,000 visitors coming from around the region.

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products including watches, jewellery, fash-ion, fine apparel, cosmetics, fragrances, and electronics. With a name that reflects its location’s longitude, 51 degrees East, the company’s stand at the DJWE included two dozen brands, among them, Rolex, Tudor Boucheron, Pasquale Bruni, and Waterman.

Around the ShowIn the various pavilions, truly remarkable

pieces of jewellery were on display. True to form, ninth-year exhibitor Graff showcased a variety of luxurious diamond and gem-stone pieces. Among them was a spectacu-lar diamond dragonfly, with articulated wings made of white and yellow diamonds, valued at $2 million. The brand also featured fabu-lous wedding sets. Clive Golanski, Senior Executive, explained. “The wedding season is coming up, so we have included some bridal jewellery sets this year, which have not been seen anywhere else.”

Spectacular diamond jewellery was also on the menu at the Mouawad stand. Pascal Mouawad, a fourth generation member of the family business and head of the brand’s retail division, commented, “We are fondly bound to Qatar as it has played a significant

Christie’s featured this convertible diamond tiara/necklace by Boucheron from 1947 in its private sale at the DJWE.

Extraordinary yellow and white diamond necklace (131.12 cts) from the Scroll Motif Collection by Graff.

L’Incomparable Diamond Necklace by Mouawad, comprised of 91 diamonds totalling 635.40 cts and a 407.48-ct internally flawless centre diamond.

Caroline Scheufele introduces Chopard’s new La Strada watch

at the DJWE.

role in the company’s history. During the last two editions of the DJWE, we unveiled two of our most incredible and unique creations: the Mouawad 1001 Nights Diamond Purse and the Snow White Princess Diamond Watch.” This year, Mouawad presented an even more remarkable piece—L’Incomparable Diamond Necklace—made of 91 diamonds, totalling 635.40 carats. According to the brand, the amazing centre stone is the world’s largest internally flawless diamond (GIA-graded) and weighs 407.48 carats.

A first-time exhibitor at the 2013 DJWE, Christie’s had a stand-alone booth near the entrance to the show, where it displayed the auction house’s private collections. Important pieces included a pair of attractive earrings with natural pearls by Harry Winston, a histor-ical brooch with Imperial provenance, an em-erald and diamond necklace by Cartier, and loose diamonds up to 70 carats. The pièce de résistance was a magnificent diamond tiara set in platinum and gold by Boucheron, circa 1947, that can be converted into a necklace, with matching earrings.

75


Double rings in burnished gold and diamonds by Noudar, inspired by traditional Arabic culture.

Necklace from the new Maharaja collection by Al Zain. Traditional gold wedding jewellery by Versailles.

This decorative perfume bottle holder in gold, silver, enamel, and gemstones was one of many art objects created by Prologue.

Jewellery from the RegionA number of companies from the Gulf area

presented beautiful collections of jewellery. The largest was Al Zain, founded in 1930 by pearl merchant Abdulla Al Zain. One of the oldest jewellery companies in Bahrain, Al Zain operates 15 retail stores in high-end malls around the Middle East, in addition to its worldwide wholesale business.

At the DJWE this year, Al Zain introduced its new Maharaja collection, inspired by the splendour of the great rulers of India. “The Maharaja collection is the second in a series, following our earlier ArabDeco collection,” said Samar Al Zain, co-owner of the brand

Issa bin Mohamed al-Mohannadi, chairman of the QTA, declared the DJWE a great suc-cess, adding that “the event has given a boost to the country’s image as a major exhibition centre at the international level.” It also high-lights the QTA’s strategy to support a thriving industry, which reaches beyond the shores of Qatar to include the world’s top global brands. (www.qatartourism.gov.qa)

Earrings in diamonds and Gemsfield emeralds by Fabergé, present at the Al Fardan pavilion.

with her husband and children. “It consists of pieces handcrafted from the finest rose-cut, briolette, and brilliant-cut diamonds, as well as natural pearls set in 18K gold.” Al Zain also featured bridal sets, its own 21K handcrafted Bahraini gold pieces, and other gemstone, pearl, and diamond pieces.

The Qatari brand, Noudar, made its second appearance at the DJWE. Created by Noor Alfardan, of the Al Fardan family, the brand presented several collections inspired by Arabic culture and Middle-Eastern fashion, but with a modern perspective. Noudar is sold in Britain as well as in the Middle East.

Another Qatari company, Versailles, spe-cialized in traditional gold jewellery, many in-tended for weddings. Some of the bridal sets were made of more than one kilogram of gold, according to owner Hassan Yousef Al Jaber. The company also displayed a wide variety of everyday pieces.

Based in Dubai, Prologue manufactures high-end jewellery and original objets d’art. Its booth displayed extraordinary statues made of gold, silver, enamel, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. “Many pieces have been custom-made for clients here in the region,” explained Corrine de Aranda, the company’s managing director. Among the most popular objects were motifs evoking Arabian horses, falcons, and other aspects of local life.

76

SIHH: POETRY, TRADITION, & MÉTIERS D’ART

The 23rd edition of the by-invitation-only Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH)—the elite gathering of some of the most prestigious names in Haute Horlogerie—took place a few months ago against the backdrop

of a record 2012 for Swiss watch exports.



While mechanical prowess was clearly on stage with many brands at the

SIHH, the main recurring theme seemed to be a return to traditional skills and the poetic interpretation of time—to the “Metiers d’art.” Enamelling, marquetry, mosaics, guillochage, miniature sculpture and painting, Etruscan granulation, and of course sumptuous stone setting were used on their own or in com-bination to create timepieces that evoked pure and timely elegance and extravagance. Shown here are a few examples of brands engaged in the most creative forms of these artistic crafts.

The poetry of time was in the air at Van Cleef & Arpels, with ladies’ timepieces that centred on “A World of Movement, Light-ness and Grace.” The brand introduced four exceptional limited editions of its “Charms

Extraordinaires,” with dials filled with enchant-ing scenes of flowers and fairies, topped with an ethereal lucky charm. In its “Extra-ordinary Dials” collection, Van Cleef & Arpels presented high jewellery watches with colour-ful butterflies and flying kites decorating the dials, perfect examples of a combination of artistic virtuosity and feminine delicacy.

The “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Poetic Complication” takes poetic and me-chanical prowess to a new level. Inspired by a quote from Anna Pavlova—I’ve been dreaming that I was a ballerina, and that I was spending my whole life dancing as lightly as a butterfly—the beautiful ballerina is half dancer and half butterfly. A true minia-ture figurine, the golden ballerina is sculpted in relief and set with diamonds. Animated by a double retrograde movement, her tutu

rises up in two sections, first on one side to indicate the hours and then on the other side to show the minutes, before they both move down again simultaneously. This magical and enchanting manner of telling the time on demand is activated using a push-piece located at 8 o’clock.

On the luxury feminine side, Piaget show-cased two collections: “Limelight Gala” and “Couture Précieuse.” Limelight Gala draws inspiration from the 1960s when the Geneva watchmaker crafted dazzling jewellery time-pieces for its feminine clientele. Imbued with glamorous chic, each of these timepieces has its own distinctive personality at the crossroads of art, design, and high jewel-lery. Among the highly stylized pieces in the Couture Précieuse line is the high jewellery cuff watch set with diamonds in rose gold.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Papillon Bleu Nuit: 38-mm white gold case; diamond-set bezel; mother-of-pearl dial with champlevé, plique-à-jour, and paillonné enamel, diamonds; manual movement; limited edition of 22 pieces.

Piaget, Limelight Gala: 32-mm 18K white gold case set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds; dial set with 228 brilliant-cut diamonds with white gold indexes; Piaget 690P quartz movement; bracelet and integrated clasp

set with 451 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée: 40.5-mm white gold case; diamond-set bezel; dial with guilloché background, translucent and champlevé enamel, sculpted gold, diamonds; double retrograde mechanical movement, time on demand; numbered edition, permanent collection.

Piaget, Couture Précieuse high jewellery cuff watch; rose gold case set with 297 brilliant-cut

diamonds, silvered dial; Piaget 56P quartz movement.

Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier: Parrot watch and ring in rhodium-plated white

gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds; beak in mother-of-pearl; eyes set with

emeralds; quartz movement.

78

Vacheron Constantin, Métiers d’Art Florilège watches: 37-mm 18K white gold case; enamelled dial; diamond-set bezel; 4400 calibre movement; alligator bracelets; limited edition of 20 pieces.

In keeping with its vocation for extraordi-nary jewellery timepieces, Cartier featured a remarkable collection of 41 jewellery watch-es, including 23 unique editions, with the apt title: “Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier.” At first glance, many do not seem like watches at all, but rather luxurious pieces of jewel-lery. But, with a flick of a finger, a bejewelled bracelet or ring becomes a true timepiece.

A wizard of watchmaking, Cartier has cre-ated serpents that slide off a watch to be-come a brooch, peacocks that take flight to adorn a lapel, and a parrot whose head turns to reveal the time on a ring, among other cre-ative entities that conceal time one minute and reveal it the next.

True to tradition, the panther has not been forgotten. Voluptuous and supple, one enamel-spotted cat curls itself around the dial of the

“Panthère Divine de Cartier,” while another graceful little panther clings to the side of the “Baguette Panthère” with its paws and tail wrapped around the bracelet. A third panther was represented in an amazing timepiece with its face crafted of gold granulation.

Drawing inspiration from Robert John Thornton’s coloured engravings entitled “The Temple of Flora,” published in 1799, Vacheron Constantin created artistic exam-ples of the botanical illustrations popularized by British aristocrats during the late 18th century. Its “Métiers d’Art Florilège” collection features three rather amazing models—the White Lily, the Queen, and the China Limodoron. The White Lily features a fine guilloché pattern that draws light into the enamelled dial, while the Queen showcases Strelitzia Reginae, a lovely flowering plant

Montblanc, Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco,

Pétales de Rose Motif: 18K white gold case set with 810 diamonds;

mother-of-pearl dial; automatic Swiss movement; diamond-set crown.

indigenous to South Africa. The China Limodoron evokes the flamboyant red and creamy white colours of an orchid.

The feminine models of Audemars Piguet all reflect the spirit of independence cher-ished by the Geneva brand, along with its taste for elegance. Among the new ladies’ models from the “Royal Oak” collection were two luxurious diamond-studded pieces. One featured an automatic movement while the other offered a quartz version.

Montblanc continued the “Princesse Grace de Monaco” collection with the unique and exclusive “Pétales de Rose Motif” line. Dedicated to the favourite flower of the prin-cess, the rose petals determine the design of the bracelet, where invisible joints connect individual petal contours to create the floral loops of the linked bracelet. The entire watch is made from 18K white gold set with 810 diamonds.

Roger Dubuis has also shown itself to be both a jeweller and a watchmaker. The brand’s “Velvet High Jewellery” timepiece is completely covered in diamonds, offering a luxurious blend of technicality and opulence, with 304 diamonds arranged in invisible settings that seem to magnify the precious stones totalling approximately 13.61 carats.The next SIHH will be held in Geneva from January 20 to 24, 2014. (www.sihh.org)

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak: 33-mm white gold case, with bezel, and bracelet set with 648 diamonds; silver-toned dial; date; quartz movement.

Roger Dubuis, Velvet High Jewellery timepiece: 36-mm round case with 304 invisibly-set diamonds; in-house automatic calibre RD821; Geneva Seal.

Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier: Baguette Panthère; case and bracelet in 18K rhodium-plated white gold set with

brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds; mechanical 101 MC manual movement.

79

JEWELS AND GEMS DAZZLE IN THE DESERT

The mood was cautiously positive at the winter jewellery and gem shows in the Arizona desert. An increase in the number of retailers attending the Centurion show in Phoenix as well as the

AGTA show in Tucson signaled an upturn in confidence.

The Centurion show kicked off the jewellery trade show circuit in the USA from a lush

resort in Phoenix. As usual, the by-invitation-only event featured informative speakers, useful networking events, panel discussions, various awards for design and vendors, and a host of jewellery brands eager to showcase—and sell—their creations. New at Centurion this year, the Limited Edition Retailer Workshops offered special in-depth sessions on selected relevant topics with a small group size.

This year’s keynote speakers, retired Navy officer Mike Abrashoff and Jerry Greenfield of Ben & Jerry’s, used personal examples to illustrate how people can take charge of what they can with what they can, to forge a path of success using the tools they have.

Awards at CenturionOne of the highlights of the show was the

announcement of the winners of the Centurion Design Awards. Retailers voted for their fa-vourite piece in each of 11 categories. The winners: Bridal, Frederic Sage with a diamond pavé engagement ring; Colored Stone Clas-sic, a tie between Jack Abraham with a ruby ring and Jewels by Star with an emerald ring; Colored Stone Fashion, Spark Creations with a pair of green tourmaline drop earrings; Con-temporary Metals, Todd Reed with a palladium and diamond cuff bracelet; Diamond Classic, Kwiat with its limited-edition “Revel” earrings; Diamond Fashion, a tie between Roberto Coin with a black and white diamond and green gar-net cobra bracelet and Siera with a diamond floral pendant in 18K gold and black rhodi-um on a black rhodium chain; Gold, Heather Moore with a special-order wrap ring framed in cognac diamonds and personalized with the names of her children; Pearls, Yvel, with a one-of-a-kind 18K white gold and diamond necklace set with a baroque freshwater pearl;

Platinum, Gumuchian with a versatile platinum and diamond “Bowlero” necklace; Silver, Charles Garnier Paris with its “Constellation” finish wavy cuff bracelet; Watches, Frederique Constant with its Lady Slimline Joaillerie watch. Some of the pieces are featured on these pages.

Vendors also got to honour seven luxury retailers in the first Centurion Vendors’ Choice Retail Awards, which celebrated excellence in the areas of special events, advertising and marketing, sales associates, and overall excel-lence in the Store of the Year awards.

The winners were: Best Special Events, Albert Jewelers, Scherville, Indiana; Best Mar-keting/Advertising, London Jewelers, Glen Cove, New York; Best Retail Sales Associate, a three-way tied between Fragments, New York, New York, Mountz Jewelers, Carlisle, Pennsyl-vania, and Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas; Cen-turion Retailer of the Year, Under $5 Million, Craig’s Fine Jewelry of Ridgefield, Connecticut; and finally, Centurion Retailer of the Year Over $5 Million, Borsheim’s, Omaha, Nebraska.


Limited edition “Revel” earrings,

Emerald and diamond rings, co-winner of the Coloured Stone Classic category, by Jewels by Star.

Gold and diamond ring, winner of the Gold category,

by Heather B. Moore.

category, by Roberto Coin.


Emerald and diamond rings, co-winner of the

Limited edition “Revel” earrings, winner of the Diamond Classic

category, by Kwiat.

winner of the Gold category,

he Centurion show kicked off the jewellery trade show circuit in the USA from a lush

resort in Phoenix. As usual, the by-invitation-only event featured informative speakers, useful networking events, panel discussions, various awards for design and vendors, and a host of jewellery brands eager to showcase—and sell—their creations. New at Centurion this year, the Limited Edition Retailer Workshops offered special in-depth sessions on selected

This year’s keynote speakers, retired Navy officer Mike Abrashoff and Jerry Greenfield of Ben & Jerry’s, used personal examples to

and diamond “Bowlero” necklace; Silver, Charles Garnier Paris with its “Constellation” finish wavy cuff bracelet; Watches, Frederique Constant with its Lady Slimline Joaillerie watch. Some of the pieces are featured on these pages.

the areas of special events, advertising and

Albert Jewelers, Scherville, Indiana; Best Mar

Diamond and gemstone snake bracelet, co-winner of the Diamond Fashion category, by Roberto Coin.


Gold and diamond ring, winner of the Gold category,

80

This year, Centurion also selected three Emerging Designers, who were invited to present their products. Centurion president Howard Hauben stated, “We received a record number of entries this year, and they were all amazing. We’re proud to be able to offer the winners an unparalleled opportunity to meet the top prestige jewelers in the United States, and we’re equally proud to offer our Centu-rion attendees this level of outstanding global talent as an exclusive first introduction.”

Out of a field of more than 300 entries, the three winners were: Sharlinn Liew of Thailand, Alessio Boschi of Australia, and Erika Bertin of the USA. All three presented innovative and very creative pieces that garnered a lot of at-tention from attending retailers and the media. “It is such an honor to receive this award from the Centurion Show and to be able to share my creations with retailers in the United States,” exclaimed Sharlinn Liew. “I am so very grateful for this experience and the response has been wonderful.” Similar sentiments were expressed by Alessio Boschi. “This is a wonderful oppor-tunity for us, and we are delighted to be here at this amazing show. We are grateful for the wonderful response.”

Wavy cuff bracelet, winner of the Silver category, by Charles Garnier.

Diamond and gemstone ring by first-time Centurion exhibitor, Brumani.

Gold and gemstone bracelet by first-time Centurion exhibitor, Vianna Brasil.

Centurion Emerging Designer winner Sharart presented this diamond and gold ring with pirouetting sapphires.

Lika Behar cleverly covered a defect in an otherwise beautiful piece of turquoise with a gold and diamond snake, thus turning “lemons into lemonade.”

Diamond ring, winner of the Bridal category,

by Frederick Sage.

Centurion Emerging Designer winner, Alessio Boschi, left, and business partner, Martino Eduardo Convertino, hold a diagram detailing one of Alessio’s complicated pieces of fine jewellery, and a tray of rings.

Wavy cuff bracelet, winner of the Silver category, by Charles Garnier.

Platinum and diamond “Bowlero” necklace, winner of the Platinum category,

by Gumuchian.

Diamond ring, winner of the Bridal category,

by Frederick Sage.

Centurion Emerging

snake, thus turning “lemons into lemonade.”

First-Timers at CenturionOn the exhibition floor, exhibitors presented

a wide range of beautiful and saleable jewels. Newcomers to Centurion, Vianna Brasil and Brumani showcased colourful creations in gold and gems from their native Brazil. “Centurion is a wonderful venue to showcase our particular style from Brazil,” stated Ricardo Vianna. “We are happy to be here and to meet so many new customers as well as our regular clients.”

Lika Behar showed ingenuity in several pieces that she mused were “lemons turned into lemonade.” She went on to explain, “There was a small defect in some of these otherwise beautiful pieces of turquoise, so I covered them with gold and diamonds, and designed around them.” One of the “lemonade” pieces was a sensual snake pendant that attracted more than a bit of attention, as did her turquoise and diamond rings.

Gold and gemstone bracelet by first-time Centurion exhibitor, Vianna Brasil.



81


Paraiba tourmaline, gold, and diamond pendant by

Rahaminov Diamonds.

Black diamond earrings by AGTA Design Pavilion exhibitor Brenda Smith.

Opal, diamond, and red sapphire earrings by Erica Courtney.

by Arman Sarkisyan.

Another first-time Centurion exhibitor was Jye’s International. Long known for its high-quality upmarket pieces, Jye’s enjoyed a very good show. “We had strong interest in our products and opened many new accounts,” said Jennifer Chang, founder of the brand. “The show has exceeded our expectations.” Jye’s featured both bridal and fashion lines, includ-ing a wide variety of coloured gemstone and diamond creations, with many nature-inspired pieces, as well as a technique for easily inter-changing the centre stone in pendants.

On to TucsonThe positive ambiance continued in Tucson.

Speaking about the AGTA show at the Tucson Convention Center, February 5 to 10, Douglas Hucker, CEO of AGTA, was enthusiastic: “This was one of the best shows we have seen in several years. The energy on the floor was extremely positive, both from exhibitors and buyers. We had an exceptional turnout and sales were up; what more could you ask for?” Reportedly, there were 8600 buyers, up a percent over last year, who stayed longer and spent more. The number of exhibitors was also up slightly at 426.

The AGTA held several new events this year that contributed to the show’s success. Among them was the Daily Drawing where buyers could win a $1,000 voucher to spend on the show floor.

The AGTA underwent a few changes in layout this year. The Design Pavilion, formerly in the Grand Ballroom upstairs, relocated to a small section downstairs in the main hall. The large upstairs room was taken over by the new Tools, Technology, and Services Pavilion.

Among those in the design section was Helen Serras-Herman, known for her gem sculptures and unique pieces of gemstone jewellery art. She presented a variety of Maya-inspired pieces and large turquoise and gem-stone necklaces. Also present was Brenda Smith, who presented original and handcrafted one-of-a-kind designs in gold, silver, and gem-stones. Both women expressed the opinion that the designers were more visible in the Grand Hall than in the present location.

While all types of stones were available, sell-ers indicated that prices are on the rise, due primarily to increasing demand from emerging

Helen Sarras-Herman wears a large multi-gemstone pendant at the AGTA Design Pavilion.

Rainbow moonstone, diamond, and gemstone ring by H.Weiss.

Delicate butterfly ring in gemstones, gold,

and diamonds by Jye’s International.

Gemstone and gold bracelet by Bellarri.

markets, especially China. Specifically men-tioned were bigger high-quality gems such as tourmaline—including rubellite—tanzanite, and blue sapphires. Increased demand is also seen for quartz, especially the rutilated varieties that are being used more in finished jewellery.

Anecdotally, exhibitors in the gem section at AGTA mostly seemed happy with the show, although some suggested that traffic could be better. Over at the large GJX tent, the cor-ridors seemed a bit more crowded. In the end, though, the generally positive ambiance at the winter shows in the desert bodes well for the rest of the year.

Delicate butterfly ring in gemstones, gold,

and diamonds by Jye’s International.

Paraiba tourmaline, gold,

Gold, silver, tsavorite, and sapphire earrings by Arman Sarkisyan.

Black diamond earrings by AGTA Design Pavilion exhibitor Brenda Smith.

sales were up; what more could you ask for?” Reportedly, there were 8600 buyers, up a percent over last year, who stayed longer and spent more. The number of exhibitors was also

International.

Gemstone and gold bracelet by Bellarri.

International.

82

Packaging,Tools &

EquipmentHall 11

DiamondsHalls 9 &11

DiamondsHalls 5 & 7

PearlsHall 1

GemstonesHalls 3, 6, 8 & 10

Fine GemPavilion

Hall 9

Hall 2

Jewellery AccessoriesHall 5D

Silver JewelleryHalls 5B & 5C

Hong Kong PavilionHalls 1A, 1B & 1C

Antique & VintageJewellery,

Convention HallHong Kong Premier Pavilion

Halls 1D & 1E

International PremierPavilion Halls 3B & 3C

Hong Kong PavilionHalls 3C, 3D & 3E

Harbour RoadEntranceExpo Drive Entrance

Grand Foyer

International Fine JewelleryHalls 3F & 3G

Fine DesignPavilionGrand Hall

Asian Fine JewelleryHalls 5F & 5G

Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery& Finished Jewellery Hall 5E

Designer Avenue Mezzanine 2

Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4

Jadeite Gallery Hall 1 Concourse

Over 3,500 exhibitors from 48 countries & regions

Over 51,500 buyers from 156 countries & regions

Around 135,000 square metres of exhibition space

SEPTEMBERHong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

Theme Pavilion Highlights:The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts over 70 internationally renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and estate jewellery and other timepieces and exclusive one-offs from around the world.

The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Over 50 esteemed exhibitors from around the world will display a variety of loose gems of the highest quality.

The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect setting to show what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces.

The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER PAVILION features over 60 prestigious international jewellery companies presenting prominent jewellery brands and their latest collections.

Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues:

AsiaWorld-Expo• Gemstones• Diamonds• Pearls• Packaging, Tools & Equipment• Fine Gem Pavilion

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre• Hong Kong Pavilion• Hong Kong Premier Pavilion• International Premier Pavilion• Fine Design Pavilion• Silver Jewellery• Jadeite Gallery• Designer Avenue• Jewellery Accessories• Pearl Jewellery & Finished

Jewellery• Asian Fine Jewellery• International Fine Jewellery• Antique & Vintage Jewellery

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The WORLD’SNUMBER ONEFine Jewellery Event

SEPTEMBERHong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

11 - 15 September 2013AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong KongDiamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging

13 - 17 September 2013Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreFine Finished Jewellery

To exhibit, please contactSales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia LtdTel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179Fax : (852) 3749 7319Email : [email protected]

25/04/2013 5:03 PM

BASELWORLD: A NEW DIMENSION BaselWorld continues to reinvent itself, moving ever more into the high-end sector of watches and jewellery.

Larger and yet more compact, the show has entered a new era, focused largely on luxury brands.


The changes at BaselWorld have been in the works since 2004, when the fair’s owner,

MCH Basel, set in motion the procedure to re-place the provisional Hall 6, which housed the national pavilions, and create a new and more compact structure. Phase 1 of construction be-gan in 2010 and continued for 22 months un-til the redesigned exhibition centre opened its doors on April 25. Larger, with nearly 141,000 square meters of exhibition space, the eight-day show had 25 percent less exhibitors than last year (1460 from 40 nations), while visitor numbers were up 17 percent, setting a new record at 122,000.

“With BaselWorld 2013, we have set new standards. This has further reinforced the uniqueness of this event. There is nothing com-parable in the luxury goods industry anywhere in the world,” declared Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BaselWorld.

The New SpacesAlthough larger, the new site is more com-

pact, with the various halls closer together and internally accessible. René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Basel, explained, “One of the principal concerns was to improve the compactness of the exhibition ground, which had previously been divided into six individual buildings. More than half of the total exhibition area at the Messe Basel has now been accommodated in a single complex of halls.”

One of the most striking features of the new complex is the rather imposing mesh metal façade extending along the new three-story Hall 1 complex. It also covers the new exten-sion of Hall 1.1 over the tramlines, which in-corporates what used to be the old Hall 3. The gemstone and diamond exhibitors from that hall have been displaced to the new Hall 3 lo-cated at the far (very far) end of Hall 1 in place of the old Hall 5.

Although redesigned with spectacular multi- level stands, the home of the large Swiss watch brands remains Halls 1.0 and 1.1. A number of prestigious jewellery brands now

occupy Hall 1.1’s new extension, housed in impressive multi-story stands. All three floors of Hall 2 remain largely the same from a struc-tural point of view. The major difference is that the former prestigious “Fifth Avenue” section of 2.2 has disappeared. Half of the hall now accommodates major jewellery brands while the other half has welcomed companies selling packaging, lighting fixtures, watches, and relat-ed products, thus drawing criticism from some of the floor’s upscale jewellers, who questioned the wisdom of this new arrangement.

As with any change, there is a period of adjustment and overcoming growing pains. Hopefully next year, signage will be improved, especially in terms of accessing Hall 4 from Hall 1.1. Even the security guards were lost in trying to explain the way, in either direction.

The National PavilionsHall 4 is the new venue for the national

pavilions, which came from Hall 6. The largest international presence was that of Hong Kong with 184 exhibitors. “After the SARS episode in 2013, we are starting a new chapter at Basel-World,” said Fred Lam, Director of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. “We are


The imposing metal mesh facade over the three-storey Hall 1 complex.

-

internally accessible. René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Basel, explained, “One of the principal concerns was to improve the compactness of the exhibition ground, which had previously been divided into six individual buildings. More than half of the total exhibition area at the Messe Basel has now been accommodated in

One of the most striking features of the new complex is the rather imposing mesh metal façade extending along the new three-story

--

corporates what used to be the old Hall 3. The gemstone and diamond exhibitors from that

-cated at the far (very far) end of Hall 1 in place

Although redesigned with spectacular multi- level stands, the home of the large Swiss watch brands remains Halls 1.0 and 1.1. A number of prestigious jewellery brands now

occupy Hall 1.1’s new extension, housed in impressive multi-story stands. All three floors of Hall 2 remain largely the same from a structural point of view. The major difference is that the former prestigious “Fifth Avenue” section of 2.2 has disappeared. Half of the hall now accommodates major jewellery brands while the other half has welcomed companies selling packaging, lighting fixtures, watches, and related products, thus drawing criticism from some of the floor’s upscale jewellers, who questioned the wisdom of this new arrangement.

adjustment and overcoming growing pains. Hopefully next year, signage will be improved, especially in terms of accessing Hall 4 from Hall 1.1. Even the security guards were lost in trying to explain the way, in either direction.

The National Pavilions

pavilions, which came from Hall 6. The largest international presence was that of Hong Kong with 184 exhibitors. “After the SARS episode in 2013, we are starting a new chapter at BaselWorld,” said Fred Lam, Director of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. “We are

Fabergé was among the global luxury brands exhibiting in the extension of Hall 1.1. Shown here is of its remarkable necklaces made in

emeralds and diamonds.

86

pleased to be here and have just committed to another five-year contract with the show.” He added that traffic was good and exhibitors were happy. Since Hall 6 held 239 companies, the selection of the 184 exhibitors, Lam ex-plained, “centred on which companies would most benefit from participation at BaselWorld.” The second largest pavilion was Thailand.

One national group that chose not to par-ticipate in Hall 4 was India. The exhibitors, who came to BaselWorld under the umbrella of India’s Gems & Jewellery Export Promo-tion Council (GJEPC) were spread out in four small pavilions in Halls 2.1 and 2.2. Each grouping was composed of several stands behind large panels enclosing the booths. When asked about being in Hall 2.2 in this type of arrangement, the answers were always the same: “We are very happy to be in 2.2, but very unhappy with the layout of the booths, which gives the feel of being in a bazaar.”

GJEPC representative Sohil Kothari elu-cidated the situation: “We have been getting mixed feedback from exhibitors about their concerns for booth arrangements, and we are in discussions with the fair to see how we can improve visibility and the layouts for next year.” He added that Indian companies were happy with sales, even if exposure could have been better in some of the pavilions.

A Few HighlightsSince it is impossible here to cover all the

jewellery companies in Halls 1.1 and 2, a few examples of the products are shown on these pages, from simple silver pieces to the most sumptuous diamond and gemstone parures.

The multi-story stands in the new Hall 1.1 extension were impressive, among them the circular stand of Swarovski that glittered with thousands of LED lights along its outside perimeter wall, and ceiling videos that played on cards held at certain points on the floor as the visitor walked around the stand.

Fabergé’s two-story booth was decorated with elegant furniture in keeping with the brand’s history, and served as a fitting back-drop to its spectacular diamond and gemstone pieces. Acquired by Gemfields in late January 2013, Fabergé is making colour a focus of its collections. Roberto Coin had a large multi-story stand out of the Arabian Nights, where the Vicenza brand featured a limited edition collection of gold and gemstone pieces, as well as 500 new models. Its youthful brand The Fifth Season had a range of new silver pieces.

Nearby, Bayco displayed the most remark-able gemstone at the fair, a 206.09-carat Colombian emerald of exceptional colour and clarity, dubbed “The Imperial Emerald.” Giacomo Hadjibay, a co-owner of the New York-based family company, said the gem was purchased by his father from a private collector earlier this year. When asked if the stone was for sale, he replied that it would be kept by the family and loaned to museums to travel the world.

Italian brand Utopia displayed a large as-sortment of pearl jewellery including its latest collection, “Claire De Lune,” inspired by the moon and the night sky. A few meters further, Messika offered dazzling diamond jewellery, plus a line of edgy spiked creations. Ti Sento celebrated its 10th anniversary at BaselWorld with a series of ten rhodium-plated sterling silver rings. The European brand has now ex-panded distribution in the USA.

Moving to Halls 2.1 and 2.2, British brand Stephen Webster, in its 15th year at Basel-World, revisited some of the brand’s most fa-mous collections, reinventing the “Fly by Night” and 20s-inspired “Deco Haze” collections in diamonds and coloured gemstones. Webster said the fair was quite good and he made new contacts in addition to welcoming the brand’s established clients.

Gold and rhodium-plated silver bangles from The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin.

Bayco’s 206-ct high-quality emerald.

A whimsical gemstone, diamond, and gold brooch

by Chinese brand TTF.

Emerald and black diamond earrings in the “Fly by Night” line by Stephen Webster.

Diamond, gold, and pearl pendant in the Clair de Lune line by Utopia.

Pink and white diamond ring by Messika.

Diamond, gold, and pearl pendant in the Clair de Lune line by Utopia.

Pink and white diamond ring by Messika.

A whimsical gemstone,

Emerald and black diamond earrings in the “Fly by Night” Emerald and black diamond

Ring in silver to celebrate the 10th anniverary of Ti Sento.

87


Gemstone and gold ring by Vianna.

Black and white diamond ring by

Bapalal Keshavlal.

Gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Magerit.

Black diamond and gold earclip by Nikos Koulis.

Earrings in Glam Film and rhodium-

plated bronze by Rebecca.

Diamond pendant by Coronet.

drop for the brand’s amazing micro-mosaic jewels, including a new collection designed by Massimiliano & Doriana Fuksas.

While there was no obvious single major trend, nature-inspired themes were popular, es-pecially snakes. Of the many brands presenting snake jewellery, the Italian Antonini introduced its new “Aurea” line of sinuous snake-inspired gold and diamond rings, earrings and cuffs.

Among its colourful creations, USA brand Miiori presented an intriguing collection called “Flash Set.” This patented setting technique uses diamonds and Swarovski topaz to give different colours and motifs that change as the piece is moved back and forth.

Colour was also on the menu at Brazil-ian brand Vianna with its remarkable Paraiba tourmaline pieces along with the brand’s other colourful creations. Owner Ricardo Vianna ex-pressed his satisfaction with the fair, saying that he was happy to have so many walk-ins as well as regular clients. Not far away, Mumbai-based Bapalal Keshavlal displayed the brand’s sumptuous diamond and gemstone parures. Owner Romy Mehta was delighted with the fair and the booth location. “We are also develop-ing contacts with new potential clients in addi-tion to our established ones. One of the goals of this show is to meet new people.”

Creativity was definitely in the air at the Joaillerie de France pavilion, comprised of sev-eral French brands, among them Mathon Paris, with a new Manhattan line, and Lyon-based Tournaire. The son of founder Philippe Tournaire, known for his remarkable rings evoking houses and monuments, Mathieu Tournaire presented his first collection of “Lock & Love,” comprised of pendants with little padlocks. “In 2010, I discovered hundreds of padlocks on the Pont des Arts bridge in Paris and then later on the Brooklyn Bridge in New York. As I researched this phenomenon, I realized it has spread around the world, with lovers everywhere leaving the padlocks as a sign of eternal love, then throwing away the key to seal the union.” Mathieu recreated this romantic gesture with a series of gold pendants based on the Pont des Arts in Paris and the Tree of Life, which became a haven for padlocks in Moscow.

The most elaborate stand was Sicis Jewels. The walls were lined with mosaics depicting Emperor Justinian and Queen Theodora and the royal court, which served as a fitting back-

Italian fashion brand Rebecca introduced new collections of rhodium-plated bronze pieces, decorated with their very original Glam Film, while Greek brand Nikos Koulis featured a selection of exotic rings and pendants based on ancient Greek architecture. One of the more remarkable pieces was an earclip that uses a clever system of magnets to remain closed snugly in place.

Amethyst and gold earrings by Nanis.

Hammered gold and diamond snake ring by Antonini.

“Flash Set” earrings that change colour as they move back and forth by Miiori.

Gemstone and gold ring by Vianna.ring by Vianna.

Black and white diamond ring by

Bapalal Keshavlal.

Owner Romy Mehta was delighted with the fair and the booth location. “We are also develop-ing contacts with new potential clients in addi-tion to our established ones. One of the goals

ring by Vianna.

A gold “Lock & Love” pendant by Tournaire.

Bapalal Keshavlal.

Hammered gold and diamond snake ring

different colours and motifs that change as the piece is moved back and forth.

“Flash Set” earrings that change colour as

From scintillating silver to dazzling diamonds, with a very strong emphasis on the diamonds, BaselWorld featured a wide range of jewellery. Anecdotally, most exhibitors expressed sat-isfaction at results, while others admitted dis-appointment and slow traffic. While the watch halls were, as expected, quite busy, the same was not evident in the jewellery sections. But, as with most fairs, mixed results can be expect-ed, depending on product lines and other fac-tors. One thing was abundantly clear, though, BaselWorld clearly intends to be a showcase for luxury, which will continue in the next edi-tion, to be held March 27 to April 3, 2014. (www.baselworld.com)

Film and rhodium-

closed snugly in place.

Black diamond and gold earclip by Nikos Koulis.

Hammered gold and diamond snake ring diamond snake ring

drop for the brand’s amazing micro-mosaic jewels, including a new collection designed by drop for the brand’s amazing micro-mosaic


by Antonini.

Hammered gold and diamond snake ring by Antonini.

drop for the brand’s amazing micro-mosaic


diamond snake ring by Antonini.diamond snake ring by Antonini.

by Coronet.

Moonstone and gold ring by Jochen Pohl.

88

2(X)ist 22, Cover IVAdami & Martucci 30ADTF 59AG Color 55Al Zain 76Aleksander Gliwinski 42Alessio Boschi 81 Alice K 26Ambalt 38, 43Amber Planet 43, 61, 64Ambermart 89Ambermix 39, 42, 61Ambermoda 43, 61Antonini 23, 88Arman Sarkisyan 82Art 7 42, 62Arunashi 24Audemars Piguet 79Bapalal Keshavlal 6, 7, 36, 88Bavna 26, 29Bayco 87Beauty Gems 67Beauty Gems bvba 57Bel Tung 72Bellarri 24, 82Bergio 31, 41Beverley K 41, 68BGJF 69 Bibigi 30Bizzotto Gioielli 20, 21, 34, 52BK Jewellery 17Blue River 66Bogdan Frydrychowicz 43Bohemme 30, 53Boucheron 75Brenda Smith 82Brumani 81 Carelle 28

Carla Amorim 23Caroline C 27, 35Cartier 78, 79Casato Roma 52Charles Garnier 81 Chopard 75Claude Thibaudeau 40Clementina Duarte 26Commelin 39Coronet 88CPAA 49Creart II 38Cris Porto 37, 38Crivelli 23Crossfor 72Damiani 24, 34, 37Daniel Espinosa 28Danka Czapnik 43Delance 30Denise James 23Design & Style 62Dhevan Dara 67Diarough 56E&V Jewellery 70Eden 71Effy 35Enzo 43Erica Courtney 82Eva Stone 42, 62Fabergé 23, 76, 86FHH 77Fope 54Forever Jewels 39Frederick Goldman 40Frederick Sage 81 Gainerie 91 50, 51Gem Production 67Gemfields 4, 5, 23Gems Cube 83Georland 24

Giana Nirmala Nubia 71Gina/Vajra 71Golconda 38Goldesign 34Goldlip 68Gordon Aatlo Designs 23Goshwara 35Graff 36, 75Green G 41, 70Gumuchian 36, 81H-Iron 72H.Weiss 82Heather B. Moore 40, 80Helen Sarras-Herman 82HKJGF 84, 85House of Baguettes 40IIJS 65Il Perseo 43Intergem 63Isabelle Langlois 30, 38Italian Design 53Ivanka Trump 40J Jewels Milano 23, 28J. Pinchasi 58Jaceek Ostrowski 42Jack Kelege 9, 26, 41 Jafarov 39JCK 73JEA 48Jewelmer 10, 11, 71Jewels by Star 80Jizai/Kodama 39, 72JNB Mfg 67Jochen Pohl Cover I, 16, 25, 88John Apel 36Joia 37Jorge Revilla 30Jye’s International 32, 33, 41, 82

K.A.R.P. 70Katie Decker 28Kavant 28, 71KC Designs 30K de Craft 68Kirk Kara 41Kruczkowska 62Kusion 71Kwiat. 80Le Vian 38, 53Leaderline 28Lika Behar 46, 81Lorenz Baumer 37Luca Carati 26, 53Lydia Courteille 38Maevona 40Magerit 14, 15, 88Malgorzata Wasowska 42, 62Marcin Zaremski 43Marco Bicego 34Mark Schneider 39Mathon Paris 37Mattioli 35MCL 30Messika 36, 87Michael Endlich 23Michael M 40Miiori 88Minawala 35Misis 39, 52Mouawad 75Muzo International 23MVee 26, 35, 70NAC Amber 38, 43, 60Nanis 88Nikos Koulis 88Norman Silverman 37Noudar 76Nouvelle Bague 24

OGI 40Okurado 72Oly Lynggaard 30OMI Gems 26Opera Omnia 24Oro Trend 26Oromalia 54 Oscar Heyman 37Pamela Huizenga 28, 35, 46Paula Crevoshay 38Penny Preville 24Peter Lam 38Piaget 78Pippo Perez 39Pochai 68Ponte Vecchio 36Pranda Jewelry 68Princess Gems 67Prologue 76Quadamas 37, 41, 47Rahaminov Diamonds 82Ramon 13Rebecca Cover II, 3, 34, 88Reena Ahluwalia 36Revabella 30Robert Wan 28Roberto Coin 34, 38, 54, 80Rodney Rayner 23Roger Dubuis 79Rosato 54Rosy Blue Cover IIIRoyal Asscher 36Ruth Grieco 38S&A Jewellery Design 42, 61Santagostino 54Sekikazu 72

E d i t o r i a l a n d A d v e r t i s e r s ’ I n d e xSharart 26, 28, 72, 81Simon G 40Staurino Fratelli 38Stephen Webster 87Studio DF 42, 62Suzanne Kalan 30Suzy Landa 24Sylvie 36, 41Syna 23Tamara Comolli 35TC Mining 68Temple St. Clair 34Temptations 70The Fifth Season 87Thistle & Bee 30, 46Ti Sento 87Tivoli Jewels 44, 45Toby Pomeroy 40Todd Reed 30Tournaire 88Tresor 34TTF 87Uneek 41Utopia 28, 87Vacheron Constantin 79Van Cleef & Arpels 78Versailles 76Vianna Brasil 18, 19, 24, 28, 34, 47, 81, 88Vida 39, 70Willy Roth 56Yael Designs 26Yael Sonia 34, 47Yang Lay 72Yvel 24Ziio 52 Zimmermann Design 42, 62Zorab 34, 72Zydo 36

89

WHAT PEOPLE

ARE SAYING ABOUT

CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS . . .

90

O P I N I O N S

CIJ Trends & Colours is very inspiring and informative. It gives us a global view of the upcoming and current jewellerydesigns and trends. It also bridges jewellery to the world of fashion, and this essential information really helps us, the retailers,to better relate to today’s savvy consumers. We look forward to every issue.

– LISA WONG, TIVOLI JEWELS, SAN GABRIEL,CALIFORNIA

CIJ Trends & Colours is an indispensable guide on jewellery and trends. As a designer and retailer, I am always seekinggreat artistic visuals and find myself filled with inspiration after reading the magazine. We also use CIJ Trends & Colours asa design tool in our stores, and it has aided the staff in thinking creatively about the use of colour and the vast style optionsthey can pull from the articles when consulting with clients. We love it!

– MICHAEL ENDLICH, FOUNDER/DESIGNER, PAVÉ FINE JEWELRY, OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA

A life without art is a life without love. At Kevin Main Jewelry, we are committed to finding that perfect piece for each customer, something they can fall in love with. This would be impossible without the creative layouts of CIJ Trends & Coloursto lean upon. Thank you CIJ Trends & Colours for your leadership in the industry.

– KEVIN MAIN, KEVIN MAIN JEWELRY, SAN LUIS OBISPO, CALIFORNIA

CIJ Trends & Colours is inspirational in finding the most unique jewellery designs while giving readers the suggestion onhow to pair it with the newest fashions. I look forward to seeing what Cynthia and her team have discovered in each issue.

– OLIVIA CORNELL, CORNELL’S JEWELERS, ROCHESTER, NEW YORK

Everything in our business today is based on gemstones, trends, and colours. How lucky can we be to have the magazine,CIJ Trends & Colours, to help us. The editor, Cynthia Unninayar, has introduced me to things I did not even know I wassupposed to know about. Through her extensive travels and the information she brings back, she has broadened—byfar—my knowledge of international jewellery designers that I never would have discovered by myself. As retailers, we getso caught up in daily things that it is time-consuming to keep up with the trends, but with CIJ Trends & Colours, we canbe a step ahead. It is like an encyclopedia for the seasons of fashion and colour. The first editor to link Pantone colours tojewellery several years ago, Cynthia now goes a step further to bring us hundreds of pieces of fashionable jewellery that canbe worn with these colours. She is like a detective, finding the next trend before it becomes evident. Clearly, she enjoys whatshe does, and I enjoy being a part of it when I read the magazine. I might add that, when I point out to a company that oneof their images is in the magazine, they get very excited. CIJ Trends & Colours is the best friend an independent jewellercan have, and I look forward to each issue.

– SANDIE ROUSSO, DAVID’S LTD JEWELERS, CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA

As a retailer far away from a large city, I have to rely on the publications to keep me informed, up to date, and knowledgeableabout the industry. The articles I read in CIJ Trends & Colours are incredibly well written, interesting, hit the subjects I enjoyreading about, and visually the photographs are fantastic. I look forward to getting each and every issue.

– SUE EISEN, SUE EISEN FINE JEWELRY AND WATCHES, EL PASO, TEXAS

No 296 / Winter - Trends Guide 2013

THE IDEAL RELATIONSHIPDESERVES THE IDEAL DIAMOND.

COMPLETECUT.

Hearts & Arrows Ideal Cut Diamonds arecreated from the finest diamond roughs available

— cut to the strictest ideal proportions, and finished with perfect symmetry and polish.

Through the pavilion, each diamond revealsa circle of hearts. And through the crown,

it showcases eight symmetrical arrows. This display confirms the brilliant fire and perfect size, shape, and

contrast of the stone’s 58 facets.

JCK LAS VEGASMAY 31 — JUNE 3, 2013PLUMB CLUB (PC) 415

THE DTC SIGHTHOLDER LOGO IS A TRADE MARK THE DTC SIGHTHOLDER LOGO IS A TRADE MARK USED UNDER LICENCE FROM THE DE BEERS GROUPUSED UNDER LICENCE FROM THE DE BEERS GROUP

W W W. R O SY B L U E .CO MW W W. R O SY B L U E .CO M

CIJ SUMMER 2013

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