3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Xiaqiangla, by C. Yoshimura

Page 1 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2010-xiaqiangla-by-c-yoshimura/

About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

East face of Xiaqiangla and unnamed peak (right) seen from the shores of Da Haize. Route offirst ascent of Xiaqiangla climbed hidden face behind steep right skyline ridge. Chiharu

Yoshimura

2010: Xiaqiangla, by C. Yoshimura(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Xiaqiangla (5,470m), northeast face.

By Chiharu Yoshimura, Japanese Alpine Club, translated by Tom Nakamura

After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the QonglaiShan (AAJ 2008), I began to wonder what should be my next target. Itdidn’t take long to find a mountain that fitted my criteria: unclimbed,prominent, beautiful, and with easy access.

Xiaqiangla is an outstanding peak in the northern Daxue Shan, westof Danba and the Dadu River. Only Kiyoshi Kawajiri, Tom Nakamura,and Tadao Shintani had accessed these mountains before.[Nakamura's photo of Xiaqiangla appeared in AAJ 2009.] The peak isalluring not only because it is a fine unclimbed pyramid, but also dueto the surrounding area, the so-called Valley of Beauty, where uniquelocal Tibetan culture features fine and historic art, literature, andarchitecture, including stone towers that are typical of the Dadu RiverBasin.

Our expedition took place from April 24 – May 9 and comprisedMitsuru Kato, Hiroshi Matsushima, Ken Sato, and me, all from theJAC. We first drove from Chengdu to Dang Ling (3,300m) via Danbu,and set up base camp on the shores of Da Haizi at 4,350m after aneight-hour walk to the west-southwest After reconnaissance weplaced an advanced base at 5,020m and attempted two separateroutes: the northeast face and the north ridge. The former wouldinvolve climbing a snow couloir leading toward the north ridge andthen striking up left on a steep rock wall leading directly to thesummit. The route up the north ridge started from the north col andwas also steep, with rocky gendarmes resembling a dinosaur’s back.It featured a subsidiary summit (Peak 3) and then a smaller rockpyramid (Peak 2) before rising to the main top.

On May 2 we started from advanced base at 6 a.m. Matsushima and

Go Search

3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Xiaqiangla, by C. Yoshimura

Page 2 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2010-xiaqiangla-by-c-yoshimura/

Xiaqiangla from the northeast. The summit to the right appears to be unspecified on maps,though another off picture to the right is marked as 5,240m. The north ridge attempt

climbed from the broad snowy col between the two mountains. Peaks 2 and 3 on the northridge are marked. Chiharu Yoshimura

A foreshortened image of Xiaqiangla's ca 400m northeast face. Peak 2 and Peak 3 on thenorth ridge are marked. (1) Matsushima-Sato Route and (2) upper section of their descent on

north ridge. (3) north ridge attempted by Kato and Yoshimura over Peak 3. ChiharuYoshimura

Sato climbed the northeast face and reached the main summit at2:40 p.m. Mixed/rock climbing in the upper section was III-IV andtheir GPS gave an altitude of 5,497m. Kato and I got as far as Peak 3on the north ridge but had to give up at that point due to lack oftime. Both parties grouped at the col between Peaks 2 and 3, thendescended the couloir together, reaching advanced base at 8:40 p.m.Tom Nakamura notes that it is now impossible to ignore the seriousenvironmental destruction to the Dadu River region caused byaccelerated West China Development projects. A huge dam is underconstruction near Luding.

Edit

3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Xiaqiangla, by C. Yoshimura

Page 3 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2010-xiaqiangla-by-c-yoshimura/

On the summit headwall of the northeast face. Chiharu Yoshimura Collection

3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Venus Peak, by H. Barmasse

Page 1 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/xinjiang-province/2010-venus-peak-by-h-barmasse/

About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

Venus peak from the south. (S) Summit, (E) southeast ridge, (B) bivouac and (C) Pt. 5,980m.The Italians climbed the far flank of the ridge to reach the crest at the point close to where

they bivouacked. Hervé Barmasse

2010: Venus Peak, by H. Barmasse(Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang)

Venus Peak (6,279m), southeast ridge.

By Hervé Barmasse, Italy

In June and July, Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled tothe Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent ofGasherbrum I. Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency of the agencythat organized our logistics, it took 45 days to reach base camp.After this we had only seven days available before returning home, sono time to make an attempt. However, during the approach we madethe first ascent of the 6,279m peak [Polish 1:80,000 Satellite Map]north of the entrance to the South Skyang Lungpa Glacier, whichflows east to the Shaksgam River.

It was a beautiful but difficult adventure. We climbed the southeastridge on July 10-11. It comprised numerous rock towers withdemanding mixed pitches, cornices, and sections of deep, dangeroussnow. However, there was a fantastic panorama of the Gasherbrums,Broad Peak, and K2. The height difference was 2,150m and weclimbed the upper 800m from our bivouac in eight hours, thendescended a different route in order to avoid a second bivouac on

Go Search

3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Venus Peak, by H. Barmasse

Page 2 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/xinjiang-province/2010-venus-peak-by-h-barmasse/

Climbing the southeast ridge of Venus Peak. In the distance the Shaksgam River valley risessoutheast toward the peaks of the Indian Karakoram. Hervé Barmasse

The unclimbed northeast face of Gasherbrum I (8,068m) from the Urdok Glacier. HervéBarmasse

the mountain. The grade was ED and we named the peak Venus, afterthe planet that shone brightly each morning above the summit.

Edit

3/15/11 1:34 PM2010: Venus Peak, by H. Barmasse

Page 3 of 3http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/xinjiang-province/2010-venus-peak-by-h-barmasse/

Looking south from Venus Peak. (A) Urdok Kangri Peaks (7,137m, 7,136m, and 7,250m). (B)Gasherbrum I (8,068m). (C) Gasherbrum II East (7,772m). (D) Gasherbrum II (8,035m). (E)

Gasherbrum III (7,952m). (F) Gasherbrum IV (7,925m). Peak in middle distance below (A) isone of the South Nakpo massif. Hervé Barmasse

Looking northwest from Venus Peak. (A) Broad Peak South (7,731m). (B) Broad Peak Main(8,047m, the southeast ridge remains unclimbed). (C) Broad Peak foresummit (a.k.a. Rocky

Summit, 8,028m). (D) Broad Peak Central (8,016m). (E) South Kharut (6,934m). HervéBarmasse

3/15/11 1:49 PM2010: Abi, Shivering, by Y. Dongdong

Page 1 of 2http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2010-abi-shivering-by-y-dongdong/

About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

Abi from the west with the line Shivering. Yan Dongdong

2010: Abi, Shivering, by Y. Dongdong(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Abi (5,694m), west face and southwest ridge, Shivering (not to summit).

By Yan Dongdong, China

Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast andsouthwest, but had not been attempted from the west until July2009, when He Lang and I tried from the Jiesigou Valley. The peaklies between the north end of the Shuangqiao Valley and thenortheast branch of the Jiesigou, the valley immediately west of theShuangqiao. We reached ca 5,500m on the southwest ridge, near thepoint where the rock met ice. However, it was around 2:20 p.m.,cold, and we weren’t prepared for a bivouac on the glacier, so weretreated. That night our tent at 5,100m was destroyed by ice fallingfrom the glacier tongue, so we had to bivouac after all. It rained allnight and we shivered in wet sleeping bags.

In August 2010 Li Lan, Zhao Xingzheng, and I returned, hoping tocomplete the same route. On the 16th we took a van from Rilong tothe point where the Jiesigou splits, spent a night in the village there,and next day hired a tractor to take us to the end of the mud road.From here, we trekked to 4,900m, where we camped below the rockyridge rising to the glacier.

On the 18th we left at 6:10 a.m., and before 8:30 a.m. had reached the site of the previous year’s camp at 5,100m. From there we climbed a full pitch of rock,and then one and a half pitches on ice, to gain the glacier. We only had one 50m half rope, so Li tied onto the end and Zhao a few meters above her. Everypitch was less than 45m, and because it was misty all day, Zhao and I could barely see each other when the rope was run out.

We climbed the glacier to the start of the ice face rising to the southwest ridge. Two and a half pitches led to the crest, where rock met ice. I led another pitchup broken slate to gain more ice. After one pitch of ice climbing we were able to walk for about two ropelengths to the junction of the southwest, southeast,and north ridges, a point we assumed must be the summit. It was 6:00 p.m., so we just took a few photos and started our descent. It was only later, when Ichecked the map, that I found the ridge junction was at 5,650m: if the mist had cleared we would have seen the true summit just 100m to the north.

It had been dark for some time when we reached 5,300m and realized we had no hope of finding the right spot to rappel the glacier tongue (the wrong spotwould lead to overhanging terrain). We had one down jacket between us, and no stove, but decided to bivouac. We spent two hours digging into a snow/icecrest with our axes, until there was nearly enough space for us to cram inside, with feet left out in the open. We ate little, shivered a lot, and I threw up twiceon Li’s down jacket. We regained our camp at 3:00 p.m. on the 19th, and slept for 17 hours.

The tent leaked in continuous rain, and there was more shivering in wet sleeping bags. The obvious name for our route was Shivering, though of course wereally didn’t finish it to the summit. The part we completed was IV 5.7 AI3 M2, 800m.

Go Search

3/15/11 1:49 PM2010: Daogou West, by Y. Dongdong

Page 1 of 1http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2010-daogou-west-by-y-dongdong/

About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

Looking southwest towards Daogou (5,465m, left) and Daogou West (5,422m) from the northside of the upper Changping Valley. The 2008 Chinese route is marked. Daogou was climbedfrom the far side by an American team in 2005, while an Australian-New Zealand pair climbed

Daogou West from the far side in 2006. Jeremy Thornley collection

2010: Daogou West, by Y. Dongdong(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Daogou West (5,422m), northeast couloir and north ridge.

By Yan Dongdong, China

On October 23-24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi,and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou Westvia a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge (a bivouacwas made halfway up the couloir). The team approached from theupper Changping Valley and sited base camp immediately below theface.

Kester Brown and Vaughn Thomas made the only previous ascent ofthis summit, climbing the south face from the Shuangqiao Valley inSeptember 2006 (AAJ 2007).

Edit

Go Search

3/15/11 1:47 PM2009: Kara Tagh Shipton’s Arch, by M. Libecki

Page 1 of 2http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/xinjiang-province/2009-kara-tagh-shiptons-arch-by-m-libecki/

About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

Seen from north, Shipton's Arch inKara Tagh, ca 40km northwest of

Kashgar. Mike Libecki

2009: Kara Tagh Shipton’s Arch, by M.Libecki

(Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang)

Kara Tagh, Shipton’s Arch.

By Mike Libecki, AAC

From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Oxexpeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I embarked on the ultimatechallenges of a solo expedition, to get back to a relationship withmyself that I can only find while going alone into the wildernessin search of world-class first ascents and moments of now. Thiswas my fifth time in the area, and memories told me what toexpect in the huge city of Urumqi, filled with Muslim Uygur andChinese. Xinjiang Province has an entwined collection of signswritten in both Arabic and Chinese characters: Chinese andMuslims coexisting.

But when I arrived, it was quite different from my previous trips.The streets were not packed with people. Markets of freshvegetables, kebabs, and fried goodies, which once ruledalleyways, were nonexistent. Instead, Chinese military crowdedevery corner and street. Camouflaged trucks, several tanks, and even two bi-propeller helicopters wereprominent on my way to the hotel. Young soldiers, emanating strict discipline, stood in battle-readyformation, all with machine guns, some with bazookas, and some with hand-combat weapons and largeshields.

I had arrived on July 7, the day after a major terror and political battle between the local Uygur andChinese, when over 600 people were brutally killed in the streets. The Chinese were embarrassed abouttheir lack of control and shut down all communications. The situation changed my plans and militarypermits, and I canceled my initial goal to climb in an area of grand walls in the western Kokshaal-too, onthe Kyrgyzstan border.

My liaison officer, who has helped me plan several expeditions in China, was concerned about my safety.He told me the previous day’s terror now ruled the psyche and energy of every person in Urumqi, andlikely all of Xinjiang. While in Urumqi, I left my hotel in hopes of finding food in the markets but endedup detained in a military jail and questioned for a day; they thought I was a reporter from The New YorkTimes. A couple of days later I left with my Chinese friends for the 1,500km drive to the Kyrgyzstanborder.

Have you climbed a big newroute recently?The AAJ depends on climbers to report their ownroutes. Please contact us soon after your firstascent!

Published by the American Alpine Club Published by the American Alpine Club

The AAC unites climbers to advance theclimbing way of life. Learn more atwww.AmericanAlpineClub.org

AAJ Online Contents AAJ Online Contents

Search the AAJ to 1929: Search the AAJ to 1929:

AAJ Search and Index AAJ Search and Index

New Climbs Archives New Climbs Archives

Industry Friends of the AAJ:

Summit Partner:

Benefactors:

Go Search

3/15/11 1:47 PM2009: Kara Tagh Shipton’s Arch, by M. Libecki

Page 2 of 2http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/xinjiang-province/2009-kara-tagh-shiptons-arch-by-m-libecki/

We passed through 14 military checkpoints; at three where I was questioned, it was not a polite situation.After several days we arrived at the roadhead, a spot I had visited before and just 20km from mypotential base camp near dry glaciers. Then, at the last moment the military denied me permission.Devastation. The entire trip that had fueled my psyche for one of the most challenging solo adventuresof my life, one for which I had worked for the past year to get the correct permits and paid more moneythan I will mention, was simply gone. When I politely tried to negotiate, the military officer got pissed offand took my papers. They told me there were terrorists hiding in the mountains, and I had to leave. Myliaison officer drove me 1,500km back to Urumqi.

I’m addicted to optimism, so I had to devise a plan B. I knew of a mountain range that is home toShipton’s Arch. I took a 24-hour train from Urumqi to Kashgar, hired locals to drive me to themountains, and proceeded to explore. There were steep, big walls up to 900m, made of mud and riverstones. In the end I climbed three routes on Shipton’s Arch and connecting formations. I repeated, ropesolo, the west face of the Arch (5.10, 240m). There were in-situ anchors showing that it had previouslybeen climbed. [The west arm of the Arch was climbed by Americans in 2000. They placed bolt anchorsand climbed 180 vertical meters of generally loose conglomerate at 5.6 to reach the summit, for the firstknown ascent. AAJ 2001] I then climbed the northeast face of a connecting summit, most likely a firstascent (5.10 A2, 270m). There were some strange rope-solo shenanigans with a cool chimney/tube.Finally, I climbed the north face of another connecting summit, which proved scary 5.10 A2 (270m) dueto the need to overcome mud climbing on my own. These routes, on different walls, led to differentsummits. But the formations are connected at the base, and I refer to them all as part of Shipton’s Arch.

It was a wonderful solo expedition. I plan to go back to the Chinese western Kokshaal-too as soon aspermits become available. My chosen area has some of the most amazing untouched granite walls left onthe planet, and I know of three formations that have faces at least 1,500m high, all waiting for a firstattempt.

Edit

Leave a ReplyLogged in as jharlin. Log out »

Submit Comment

*

Patrons:

*

*

*

*