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3/15/11 1:38 PM New Page 1 of 31 http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/latest-news/ About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact A foreshortened image of Xiaqiangla's ca 400m northeast face. Peak 2 and Peak 3 on the north ridge are marked. (1) Matsushima-Sato Route and (2) upper section of their descent on north ridge. (3) north ridge attempted by Kato and Yoshimura over Peak 3. Chiharu Yoshimura Edit Post | Leave A Response 0 Comments Sichuan: Xiaqiangla in Minya Konka Range On 03.15.11, by lgriffin (Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range) Xiaqiangla (5,470m), northeast face. By Chiharu Yoshimura, Japanese Alpine Club, translated by Tom Nakamura After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I began to wonder what should be my next target. It didn’t take long to find a mountain that fitted my criteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful, and with easy access. Xiaqiangla is an outstanding peak in the northern Daxue Shan, west of Danba and the Dadu River. Only Kiyoshi Kawajiri, Tom Nakamura, and Tadao Shintani had accessed these mountains before. [Nakamura's photo of Xiaqiangla appeared in AAJ 2009.] The peak is alluring not only because it is a fine unclimbed pyramid, but also due to the surrounding area, the so-called Valley of Beauty, where unique local Tibetan culture features fine and historic art, literature, and architecture, including stone towers that are typical of the Dadu River Basin. Our expedition took place from April 24 – May 9…. (read more) China, Xinjiang: Venus Peak On 03.14.11, by lgriffin (Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang) Have you climbed a big new route recently? The AAJ depends on climbers to report their own routes. Please contact us soon after your first ascent! Published by the American Alpine Club Published by the American Alpine Club The AAC unites climbers to advance the climbing way of life. Learn more at www.AmericanAlpineClub.org AAJ Online Contents AAJ Online Contents Search the AAJ to 1929: Search the AAJ to 1929: AAJ Search and Index AAJ Search and Index New Climbs Archives New Climbs Archives Industry Friends of the AAJ: Summit Partner: Benefactors: Search

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3/15/11 1:38 PMNew

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About New Articles Reports Departments Resources Contact

A foreshortened image of Xiaqiangla's ca 400m northeast face.Peak 2 and Peak 3 on the north ridge are marked. (1)

Matsushima-Sato Route and (2) upper section of their descent onnorth ridge. (3) north ridge attempted by Kato and Yoshimura

over Peak 3. Chiharu Yoshimura

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Sichuan: Xiaqiangla in Minya Konka RangeOn 03.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Xiaqiangla (5,470m), northeast face.

By Chiharu Yoshimura, Japanese Alpine Club, translated by Tom Nakamura

After my first ascent in 2007 ofBawangshan (5,551m) in the QonglaiShan (AAJ 2008), I began to wonder whatshould be my next target. It didn’t takelong to find a mountain that fitted mycriteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful,and with easy access. Xiaqiangla is anoutstanding peak in the northern DaxueShan, west of Danba and the Dadu River.Only Kiyoshi Kawajiri, Tom Nakamura,and Tadao Shintani had accessed thesemountains before. [Nakamura's photo ofXiaqiangla appeared in AAJ 2009.] Thepeak is alluring not only because it is afine unclimbed pyramid, but also due tothe surrounding area, the so-calledValley of Beauty, where unique localTibetan culture features fine and historicart, literature, and architecture, includingstone towers that are typical of the DaduRiver Basin. Our expedition took placefrom April 24 – May 9…. (read more)

China, Xinjiang: Venus PeakOn 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang)

Have you climbed a big newroute recently?The AAJ depends on climbers to report their ownroutes. Please contact us soon after your firstascent!

Published by the American Alpine Club Published by the American Alpine Club

The AAC unites climbers to advance theclimbing way of life. Learn more atwww.AmericanAlpineClub.org

AAJ Online Contents AAJ Online Contents

Search the AAJ to 1929: Search the AAJ to 1929:

AAJ Search and Index AAJ Search and Index

New Climbs Archives New Climbs Archives

Industry Friends of the AAJ:

Summit Partner:

Benefactors:

Go Search

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Venus peak from the south. (S) Summit, (E) southeast ridge, (B)bivouac and (C) Pt. 5,980m. The Italians climbed the far flank of

the ridge to reach the crest at the point close to where theybivouacked. Hervé Barmasse

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Ruiche Gongga from the southwest. Korean route marked. In2008 French made the second ascent of this small peak

northwest of Jiazi by climbing to the col on the right, and thenfollowing the southeast ridge to the top. Supplied by Peter

Jensen-Choi

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Venus Peak (6,279m), southeast ridge.

By Hervé Barmasse, Italy

In June and July, Daniele Bernasconi,Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to theShaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I.Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency ofthe agency that organized our logistics,it took 45 days to reach base camp.After this we had only seven daysavailable before returning home, so notime to make an attempt. However,during the approach we made the firstascent of the 6,279m peak [Polish1:80,000 Satellite Map] north of theentrance to the South Skyang LungpaGlacier, which flows east to theShaksgam River. It was a beautiful butdifficult adventure…. (read more)

Sichuan: Ruiche GonggaOn 03.14.11, by jharlin

(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), south-southwest face.

By Peter Jensen-Choi, Corean Alpine Club

A 23-member expedition led by KimKyu-tae, and sponsored by theGyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Koreaon July 22 and arrived at base camp(4,200m), on the west side of the range,on the 27th. At 2:30 p.m. on August 11seven members reached the summit by anew route on the south-southwest face.This was the third ascent of themountain (see AAJ 2009). The followingday another two climberssummited…. (read more)

Sichuan: Daogou West

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Patrons:

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Looking southwest towards Daogou (5,465m, left) and DaogouWest (5,422m) from the north side of the upper Changping

Valley. The 2008 Chinese route is marked. Daogou was climbedfrom the far side by an American team in 2005, while an

Australian-New Zealand pair climbed Daogou West from the farside in 2006. Jeremy Thornley collection

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Abi from the west with the line Shivering. Yan Dongdong

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On 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains – Siguniang National Park)

Daogou West (5,422m), northeast couloir and north ridge.

By Yan Dongdong, China

On October 23-24, 2008, Chinesemountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, andPeng Xiaolong made the second knownascent of Daogou West via a new routeup the northeast couloir and north ridge(a bivouac was made halfway up thecouloir). The team approached from theupper Changping Valley and sited basecamp immediately below the face….(read more)

Sichuan: Abi west face by Yan DongdongOn 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Abi (5,694m), west face and southwest ridge, Shivering (not to summit).

By Yan Dongdong, China

Abi has been climbed several times fromthe southeast and southwest, but hadnot been attempted from the west untilJuly 2009, when He Lang and I triedfrom the Jiesigou Valley. The peak liesbetween the north end of theShuangqiao Valley and the northeastbranch of the Jiesigou, the valleyimmediately west of the Shuangqiao. Wereached ca 5,500m on the southwestridge, near the point where the rock metice. However, it was around 2:20 p.m.,cold, and we weren’t prepared for abivouac on the glacier, so we retreated.That night our tent at 5,100m wasdestroyed by ice falling from the glacier tongue, so we had to bivouac after all. It rained all night and weshivered in wet sleeping bags. In August 2010 Li Lan, Zhao Xingzheng, and I returned, hoping tocomplete the same route…. (read more)

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The north face of Svobodnaya Korea. (1) Kocherga Agafonova(Agafonov's Poker), (2) Balezin, 5B, 1991, (3) Svab, 5B, 1982, (4)

Balezin, 5B, 2000, (5) Studenin, 6A, 1966 (6) Kustovskiy, 6A,1969, (7) Mikhaylov, 6A, 1999, (8) Semiletkin, 6A, 1988, (9)

Popenko, 6A, 1975 (10) Narodnyj (People's Route), Ruchkin, 6A,2001, (11) Bezzubkin, 6A, 1969, (12) Ruchkin, 6A, 1997, (13)

Myshlyayev, 5B, 1961, (14) Samarskij Variant (Samara's Variant),5B, (15) Bagaev, 5B, 1974, (16) Barber, 5B, 1976, (17) Akimov-Gutnik, 5B, (18) Balezin, 5B, 1994, (19) Andreev, 5A, 1959, and

(20) Lowe, 5A, 1976. Sergey Dashkevich

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Kyrgyzstan: Ala Archa ascentsOn 03.09.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Ala Archa)

Pik 4,300m, northwest face, Discovery; Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4,778 m), north face, Balezin Route, firstalpine-style and first free ascent; Pik Baylyan Bashi (4,720m), west face, Long Way Home.

By Sergey Dashkevich, Russia, supplied by Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru, photo captions translated byLuca Calvi

These days I’m interested in makingsingle push, alpine mixed climbs withoutusing either aid or fixed rope. Lastwinter Gennadiy Kabalin, Boris Tretjakov,and I had an unforgettable adventure inAla Archa, one of my favorite places forwinter climbing. To aid acclimatizationwe first made a new route on thenorthwest face of an unnamed 4,300msummit that lies on the west ridge ofKorona (4,860m)…. A few days later wewere below the incredible north face ofSvobodnaya Korea (Free Korea peak). Inmy opinion the finest and most logicallines are situated toward the left side ofthe wall. The Balezin route was put up in2000 over a six-day period, largelyusing aid (A3). We made our attempt inlight alpine style. We wanted to climb asfast as possible, so took little gear andno bivouac equipment…. (read more)

Russia: Altai, Taban Bogdo Range, Ak AlakhaRangeOn 03.07.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Russia, Altai)

Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), northeast couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m),east ridge.

By Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic

In September our Czech-Slovakexpedition visited two areas of thesouthern Altai. We first traveled to theTaban Bogdo on the border withnorthwest Mongolia. Immediately north

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During the descent from Ak Alakha, showing route taken on finalsection of ascent. Michal Kleslo

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Las Damas Primero on an unnamed rock spike on the west flankof Baush-ul Below is the junction of the Hushe Valley with lower

Aling and Masherbrum glaciers. FEDME

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of Huiten, which forms the triple borderpoint of Russia, Mongolia, and China,stands Russian Tent (a.k.a. RusskiyShator), which had been climbed severaltimes by its frontier ridges (east andsouthwest) and by easy glaciated slopeson the Mongolian side. Libor Kejr, TomasLakpa, and I made the first knownascent of the northeast couloir….

Forty kilometers west, close to the tripleborder point of Russia, Kazakhstan, and China, lies the Ak Alakha, south of the Ukok Plateau. Prior to ourexpedition, this area had never been visited by mountaineers, only scientists and military. Due to itsproximity to China, the region was closed to the public until 1991…. (read more)

Pakistan: Hushe District, Ladies FirstOn 03.07.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range)

Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascentbut first to highest point.

By Francesc Estorach, Director de Comunicación, FEDME, Spain

Under the direction of mountain guideSimon Elias, a female national climbingteam from FEDME (Spanishmountaineering and climbing federation)made three ascents from the HusheValley. Maider Fraile, Miriam Marco,Maialen Ojer, Patty Trespando andAsuncion Yanguas spent a month livingwith the women of Hushe, getting toknow their personal needs…. The mainobjective was a fine spire west of thelower Chogolisa Glacier, which localpeople had dubbed Sebas Tower as atribute to Alvaro for his help withbettering the lot of Hushe peoplethrough an NGO project. Alvaro hadnoted this peak as an attractive objectiveon previous visits. (read more)

Norway: Kvasloya Island, BlammanenOn 03.05.11, by lgriffin

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Tingeling pitch three. Hansjörg Auer on the 7c traverse from Bongo Bar to Atlantis. ReinhardFichtinger

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(Back to: Europe, Norway, Tromso Region)

Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), Tingeling.

By Hansjörg Auer, Austria

In 2007, on avisit withMarkus Haid, Imanaged thefirst one-dayascent ofArctandria onthe north faceof Blamannen. Iwas soimpressed thatI decided toreturn in Julywith MuchMayr. Duringthe first trip myeyes continuallystrayed leftacross the wallto Bongo Bar, a400m lineclimbed in July1998 by Marten Blixt, Thomas Ekefalk and Erik Massih. This six-pitch route has difficulties up to A3 andNorwegian 7 (F6c+). While I was certain the rock quality wasn’t as good as Arctandria, I could see thatthis section of face held immense potential for difficult, free, multi-pitch routes. After two days on thewall we started to feel a little downhearted. The third, steeply overhanging pitch of Bongo Bar wascompletely wet. Free climbing it was impossible. But why not try traversing left onto virgin territory? Whatabout a link-up of the routes Bongo Bar and Atlantis? The latter was one of the original routes to breachthe north face…. (read more)

California: Dana Plateau, Mt. ChamberlinOn 03.04.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Dana Plateau, Butterflies and Rainbows; Mt. Chamberlin, various routes.

By Josh Finkelstein, AAC

In July, Chris Brown and I set our sightson a large, east-facing dihedral on abroad wall just northeast of the famedThird Pillar of Dana. When viewed fromthe edge of the Dana Plateau, this “wall”reveals itself as a long and complexridge reaching east. We approached asper the Third Pillar, descending the rockridge to its immediate north and theneast across talus and scree to the base.

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Some of the routes on the northeast face of Mt. Chamberlin,including those climbed in 2010. Other routes exist in this image,including, but not limited to, those in the AAJ 2007, p. 147 (see

below). Chris Brown

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From AAJ 2007, showing some of the routes on Chamberlin, forreference regarding the location of Innominata. We’ve since

learned that other routes exist on this face.

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A brief 5.9 section past a chockstone ledto rambling terrain and a large ledge atthe base of another large dihedral, fromwhere we climbed 200′ of splitter crackson the face to the right, gained anotherbig ledge, then climbed another 200′ offun 5.6 on the ridge that forms the leftmargin of the main dihedral. We movedthe belay to a large tree in the maindihedral and traversed a hairy butt crackright, and then back left, to a ledge.That led to a long 5.10- corner, followedby a classic 5.10+ ropestretcher to the ridge crest. We hopped boulders along the ridge back to theThird Pillar approach/descent ridge, and scrambled back to the Plateau. Although it’s unlikely that ourroute, Butterflies and Rainbows (1,000′, IV 5.10+), is the first line on the wall, a search of the AAJ onlinedatabase returned no other routes. This wall, however, certainly holds potential for many otherinteresting lines. In mid-August we met our friends Mike Pennings and Jimmy Haden in Whitney Portal….(read more)

California: Mt. ChamberlinOn 02.27.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Mt. Chamberlin, Innominata.

From communication with Dave Nettle

On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and ReubenShelton climbed a new route on thecentral buttress of the northeast face ofChamberlin. Innominata (5.11 A1) ismostly free, with two points of aid, andclimbs all independent terrain. It startswith two vertical, wide-crack pitches justright of Breaking Point, continuesstraight up on the far right side of thecentral buttress, then into big, steepcorners just right of the number “3” inthe photo on p. 147 of the AAJ 2007.(see topo)

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Ama Dablam (left) and Tsuro Ri with the line of the Italian attempton the north face. (B) marks the bivouac site. North ridge of AmaDablam in profile, and the northwest face, climbed by Slovenianand Japanese routes, points toward the camera. Daniele Nardi

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Nepal: Tsuro RiOn 02.26.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Tsuro Ri (ca 6,100m), north face attempt.

By Daniele Nardi, Italy, translated by Luca Calvi

While walking back from Island Peak Isaw what I thought were a series of icerunnels on the northern flank of TsuroRi, the shoulder on the northwest ridgeof Ama Dablam, and decided I had to trythem. I believe every mountaineer hasdemons that try to stop him pursuinghis or her dreams and I had to fightagainst my own before starting up thisvirgin face of Tsuro Ri. Andrea di Donataand I attempted a line right in themiddle of the face. The route wasmidway between the righthand ridge(climbed in 2001 by Cartwright andCross as the opening part of theircomplete ascent of Ama Dablam’snorthwest ridge), and the Japanese routeon the northwest face. We took food forfive days, a gaz stove and threecanisters. Earlier on the this I’d lost a rucksack containing my bivouac sack, so a lodge keeper gave me ablue plastic bag that I could slip inside of…. (read more)

Yosemite National Park: Grand Canyon of theTuolumneOn 02.25.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Yosemite National Park, Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, new routes.

By Sevve Stember, AAC

This July, I had the honor of fulfilling themission of the Mountain FellowshipAward by establishing new routes onunnamed features near Waterwheel Fallsin the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne,Yosemite National Park. Over the courseof two weeks Alan Holzkopf, ScottRysdahl, Maura LaRiviere, and Iestablished four new routes. The mostnotable route, the Fortress Wall (700′, 8pitches, IV 5.11- A2+), took us threedays. To find the formation, walk down

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Unnamed formations near Waterwheel Falls, showing the FortressWall route (700', 5.11- A2+). The shorter routes behind and rightare Alpha Male (90', 5.11- A0) and Raw Dog (400', 5.10+). Sevve

Stember

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The new climbs above Tamarack Lake (the first three are on thePrism: (A) Left Facet (Harder-LaBounty-Thau, 2007). (B) Pig with

Lipstick (LaBounty-Thau, 2010). (C) Right Facet (Harder-LaBounty, 2009). (D) Saber Ridge (LaBounty-Thau, 2010).

Brandon Thau

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river from Glen Aulin (roughly one hour),past the prominent dome known as WildCat Point, until you see a striking wallon the north side of the canyon. Ourroute links a series of fantastic cracksystems, with some exciting faceclimbing and tenuous glacially polishedtraverses, on the east end of the southface. The free climbing is high quality, with only one pitch of aid…. (read more)

Sequoia National Park: Tamarack Lake areaOn 02.22.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Sequoia National Park, Tamarack Lake area, new routes.

By Brandon Thau

On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in thecoldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty,Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautifulgranite tower, surrounded by snow andset against a blue sky above TamarackLake. Even from a distance, we could seescoops, knobs, and chickenheads. It waslike falling upon an unclimbed CharlotteDome. We returned in the summer, andon July 13, 2007, we established the firstroute on the Prism (our name for thetower). The Left Facet (13 pitches, 5.10aR) starts on the lowest part of the towerand follows the left skyline to the pointysummit block. The route climbs featuredslabs, cracks, runnels, and a steep faceup high. Once atop the summit block wewere surprised that the climb wasn’tover…. (read more)

Sequoia National Park: TamarackOn 02.22.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Sequoia National Park, Tamarack Lake area, new routes.

By Brandon Thau

On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the

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The new climbs above Tamarack Lake (the first three are on thePrism: (A) Left Facet (Harder-LaBounty-Thau, 2007). (B) Pig with

Lipstick (LaBounty-Thau, 2010). (C) Right Facet (Harder-LaBounty, 2009). (D) Saber Ridge (LaBounty-Thau, 2010).

Brandon Thau

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Scarface, on the west face of Liberty Cap. Photo: JoeHornof/qitnl.com

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On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in thecoldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty,Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautifulgranite tower, surrounded by snow andset against a blue sky above TamarackLake. Even from a distance, we could seescoops, knobs, and chickenheads. It waslike falling upon an unclimbed CharlotteDome. We returned in the summer, andon July 13, 2007, we established the firstroute on the Prism (our name for thetower). The Left Facet (13 pitches, 5.10aR) starts on the lowest part of the towerand follows the left skyline to the pointysummit block. The route climbs featuredslabs, cracks, runnels, and a steep faceup high. Once atop the summit block wewere surprised that the climb wasn’tover…. (read more)

Yosemite: Liberty CapOn 02.21.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, Scarface.

By Josh Mucci

In late June, Steve Bosque and Icompleted a 13-pitch independent lineon the west face of Liberty Cap. Theroute follows a long crack system thatshoots straight through the huge whitescar, the wall’s most prominent feature.Steve and his wife, Paula, started theclimb in 2004. Soon after, Chuck Clancejoined them before an injury forcedthem to fix and descend from the top ofpitch three. Steve mentioned the line inearly spring and we headed straight forit, replacing the fixed lines andestablishing a 4th pitch, which broughtus to the base of the scar. We fixed andcame back in late June for the finalpush. We were greeted by impeccablecracks cutting through the bulletproofrockscar. Late on the 3rd day, with aheat-wave moving in, Steve made a great effort on pitch seven by drilling eight rivets and then nailingstraight up into an A2 corner crack that ended at the base of the “Cubano Corner.” After adding a belaybolt, we hauled the bags and I racked-up for the most impressive corner I have climbed…. (read more)

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The northwest face of Le Petit Cheval: (1) Paul Revere (II+ 5.9+,Allen-Mitchell, 2006). (2) First Amendment (9 pitches, IV 5.11aMcNamara-Nicholson, 2009). (3) Spontaneity Arête (II/III 5.7,

Goldie-Johnston, 2004). Ian Nicholson

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Washington: Le Petit ChevalOn 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Washington)

Le Petit Cheval, First Amendment.

By Ian Nicholson, AAC

Chris McNamara and I climbed a newroute, First Amendment (IV 5.11a), inSeptember 2009, just right of center onLe Petit Cheval’s northwest face. Therock was excellent but, as is normal forthe area, many cracks were filled withdirt. We approached as per SpontaneityArête (II/III 5.7, Goldie-Johnston, 2004),then from its base we traversed about250 yards toward the middle of the faceon 3rd- and 4th-class ledges. Our routebegins with a 100′ 5.4 chimney andhand crack to a large ledge. P2 (150′) isa slightly vegetated 5.8 hands and fistscorner that starts around the cornerfrom a 5.10 splitter finger crack. P3(120′) is 5.9 and follows the same cornerbefore breaking right on thin faceclimbing and gaining a ledge with acave. P4 (120′) climbs sweet 5.8+ fingercracks to a large slabby ledge. P5 traverses around right to a ledge (after many attempts to go left failed).P6 is a sweet 5.9 finger crack. P7 (150′) is a 5.10+ series of corners and roofs that take very thinprotection (knifeblades and Lost Arrows would be useful). P8 is… (read more)

California: Fourth NeedleOn 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Fourth Needle, East Face.

By Bernd Zeugswetter

Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wifeHjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new lineon the thin spire just south andessentially part of the Third Needle alongthe Whitney Crest. The route goesthrough two roofs and corners on theeast face of the narrow pillar. We did acouple of exploratory trips in June andJuly, and climbed the route on August21. The rock gets better and bettergoing up. We used a little aid throughthe roof sections, but it may well gofree. As it stands, the free climbing

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The East Face of Fourth Needle, along the Whitney Crest. BerndZeugswetter

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Funeral For Another Friend, on the Bullet, Rock Creek Canyon. Doug Shepherd

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free. As it stands, the free climbingpitches are good fun and go from 3rd-class scrambling to about 5.11. We arereferring to it as the East Face of FourthNeedle…. (read more)

Montana: BeartoothsOn 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Montana)

Beartooth Mountains, various routes.

By Doug Shepherd, Colorado

Over three tripsin October andNovember,Aaron Mulkeyand I lookedfor ice andmixed climbs inthe Beartooths.We managed amajor routeeach trip, whichmade the longand remoteapproachesworthwhile.After speakingwith severalBeartoothclimbers, we think these routes are likely new. On Spirit Mountain, in Rock Creek Canyon, the CentralChimney (2,200′, V WI4 M6R) climbs the large chimney right of Lunar Arête. We found compact rock thatdid not easily yield protection or belays. On the Bullet, also in Rock Creek, Daniel Burson, Aaron, and Iestablished Funeral For Another Friend (IV WI4 M6+), an extension to Funeral For a Friend (Jim Kanzlerand Jack Tackle, 1978)…. (read more)

Nepal: Lhotse, west flank of north ridgeOn 02.18.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Lhotse (8,516m), west flank of north ridge.

By Denis Urubko, Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army, translated by Luca Calvi

The idea of a route up Lhotse from theSouth Col had been floating in the air

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Lhotse west face from Western Cwm, (1) Standard Everest route to(SC) South Col. (2) Normal Route on Lhotse - West face couloir.

(3) Urubko route on west flank of north ridge. Denis Urubko

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Enigmatic peaks of the Torugart-too rise above the Arpa Valley.Mark Weeding

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for a long time. The north ridge is alogical line, but what about the pinnacleson the crest? What about climbing lower,along the west flank, along the rockyledges that run toward the couloir of theNormal Route? For many years I hadlooked at this variant as a possiblemeans of completing an Everest-Lhotsetraverse. I’d tried it with Simone Moro. Inspring 2010 I was back again withSimone, and together we reached Camp3 (7,300m) on the Lhotse Face. Then thesituation became complicated, and putme under great psychological pressure.A Russian on the expedition died; our client refused to continue with the ascent; Simone fell ill; the windwas strong and the rocks of the ridge looked sinister. And I could not forget my friend Sergey Samoilov,who died in 2009 [Editor's note: Samoilov and Urubko climbed new routes in alpine style on Broad Peakin 2005 and Manaslu in 2006. He died in the spring of 2009 during a Kazakh expedition attempting theEverest-Lhotse traverse]. On May 15 when I reached the South Col alone and pitched my tent at 7,900m,all these negative thoughts were in my mind…. (read more)

Kyrgyzstan: Karakol and Arpa valleysOn 02.18.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Torugart-too)

Various peaks above the Karakol and Arpa valleys.

By Mark Weeding, UK

In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for thethird time, my main goal being toexplore more of the Torugart-too and inparticular to push further along theFergana Range, an extension of theTorugart-too running northwest alongthe divide between the regions of Oshand Naryn. We began by again visitingthe Naryn Tal to acclimatize. Thewooded valleys make for beautifulcamping and the clear streams pleasantfording. We climbed a prominent peak atthe head of the Kandi Valley. Steepmoraine led to a long snow bowl andonto the flank of the northeast ridge.Crossing below a prominent gendarme,we roped up for a steep loose step. Thiswas fortunate as Misha took a fall. A direct ascent of the headwall led to the summit of Pik 4,450m. Tothe west we could see the mountain I climbed in 2008 (AAJ 2009). There was no evidence that anyhuman had been here before, but ibex tracks crossed the summit. We then moved south to the Torugart-too, driving across trackless country in 4WD. We stopped at the last civilization; a collection of yurts hardup against an impassable Karakol River, but with a way open to the target valleys we had identified in theUK…. (read more)

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Peaks at head of unnamed glacier east of Mustyr. (A) Torolok(4,870m) climbed by Leach, Moneypenny and Nichols from the UKvia the central north face ice slope (D). (B) Mur Samir. (1) Proctor-Taylor (first) ascent via northeast ridge, and (2) their descent. (3)Diligent Epiphany (Moneypenny-Nichols, TD-, descended via 2).

Adam Russell.

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Rock Horse with (1) Norwecki-Picheta route from west, (2) northface direct of Raven Peak, and (3) attempted route on west ridge.

Kyrgyzstan: Mur Samir, Pik Karyshkyr, False PikOn 02.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Torugart-too)

Mur Samir (5,035m), northeast ridge; Pik Karyshkyr (4,836m), Ten Pin; False Pik (4,801m), west face.

By Adam Russell, UK

The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciatedpeaks rising to 5,000m on the borderbetween Kyrgyzstan and China. Therehave been few expeditions, but thehighest peak, Mustyr (5,108m), was firstclimbed in 2007 by Barney Harford andPat Littlejohn. We knew that the recentrevolution and riots in Kyrgyzstan mightcause problems, and when we boardedthe flight to Bishkek in July, it wassuspiciously empty. On our first day inthe capital we were picked up by localpolice and taken to the station, but theyonly wanted to check our paperwork andsearch us for knives. Soon, with the helpof our agency, ITMC, we were drivingsouth, and a few days later establishedbase camp in the Mustyr Valley opposite Middle Sister. While two of us climbed, the third would remainat base camp the entire time to guard against inquisitive locals, who showed a keen interest in ourgear…. (read more)

Kyrgyzstan: Dzhirnagaktu ValleyOn 02.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-too)

Dzhirnagaktu Valley, first ascents and new routes.

By Tomasz Owerko, Poland

Friends from the Krakow High MountainClub expedition wanted to exploreDzhirnagaktu Valley, which liesimmediately west of the Kyzyl AskerGlacier basin, and between it and theAk-Bai-Tal. Before we left we couldn’tfind any record of previous visits bymountaineers. On August 3, aftercrossing three glacial run-offs, weestablished base camp at 3,800m. Fromhere it took five days to transport all ourgear up to an advanced base at 4,271m.During this period we discovered our

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face direct of Raven Peak, and (3) attempted route on west ridge.These peaks were first climbed by Soviets, most likely in 1985,

along the skyline ridge. Tomasz Owerko

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North Face of Pharilapcha. (1) East Ridge (Bremond-Constant-Degonon-Thomas, 2006). (2) Korean Route with bivouac sites

marked. (3) Independence Day (Krol-Sokolowski-Wojcik, 2008).(4) Japanese Variant (Ichimura-Nakagawa, 2007). (5) Bonfire of

the Vanities (Constant-Mercader, 2003). Yoo Hak-jae

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satellite phone was not working, so onthe 6th, in an attempt to find a signal,we climbed onto a nearby ridge, in theprocess reaching the top of two summits that we named Sputnik Hope (4,371m) and Long Spire(4,564m). On the 9th we made an unsuccessful attempt on what was unanimously agreed to be the focalpoint of the entire valley, a peak we named Night Butterfly (5,056m)…. (read more)

Nepal: PharilapchaOn 02.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Pharilapcha (6,017m), north face, Korean Route.

By Yoo Hak-jae, Corean Alpine Club, translated by Peter Jensen-Choi

Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and Istarted climbing a new line on the leftside of the north face at 1 a.m. onDecember 13 [the prominent spurimmediately left of the 2008 Polishroute, Independence Day. See AAJ 2009].We had hoped to find the way bymoonlight, but when we reached 5,000mat 2:30 a.m., it was simply too dark, andwe had to wait until 6:30 a.m. beforecontinuing. At first the terrain wasmixed, but at ca 5,200m we had toclimb an eight-meter overhanging crackfollowed by 10m of unprotected slab, forwhich we took off crampons. Above, wegained the lip of a protected snowfieldand settled down to bivouac for thenight at 5,367m…. (read more)

Pakistan: Margherita Peak, K7 West, Farol WestOn 02.09.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Pakistan, Charakusa Valley)

Margherita’s Peak (5,400m), south ridge, Open Eyes; K7 West (6,615m), southwest pillar, attempt; FarolWest (6,370m), west face, Telegraph Road.

By Daniele Nardi, Italy

Bad weather thwarted our plans to

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Farol West from the southwest with (1) Telegraph Road, and (2)Open Eyes to the summit of Margherita's Peak. Daniele Nardi

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Northwest face of Talgar main summit showing 2010 Komarov-Urubko route right of the rock buttress of Pelevin's route. Denis

Urubko

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Bad weather thwarted our plans toattempt unclimbed Hassan Peak. Instead,Lorenzo Angelozzi and I lookedelsewhere and attempted three othersummits, on two of which we weresuccessful. Our first ascent wasMargherita’s Peak, a previouslyunclimbed rock tower at the end of thesouth ridge of Farol West. It makes agood acclimatization ascent afterarriving in the Charakusa, with anapproach that involves a night’s sleep atthe end of the glacier moraine. Weclimbed the south ridge. An ice slope ledinto a goulotte, where the climbingbecame steeper and more mixed. Finally,two rock pitches led to the top. Wenamed the route Open Eyes (WI5 M5 UIAA V, 400m) because it opened our own eyes to the possibilitieson Farol West, which would subsequently become our goal. We then attempted a new line on thesouthwest pillar of K7 West [dubbed the Badal Wall in 2007 by the Belgian-Polish team that nearlyclimbed it] in capsule style…. (read more)

Kazakhstan: TalgarOn 02.04.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kazakhstan, Tien Shan, Zailiskiy Alatau)

Talgar (4,973m), northwest face; South Talgar (4,950m), southwest face.

By Denis Urubko, Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army, translated by Ekaterina Vorotnikova

For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, theZailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shanis our most accessible mountain rangeand the foundation of ourmountaineering. Even though roadsreach 3,000m, climbing routes can belong and difficult; they allow climbers togain the first level in our sportsprogram. Talgar is the highest peak inthe range, but access is relativelydifficult. Roads are cracked and have notbeen repaired for a long time,approaches to the mountains are longand have not been maintained, there is afee for parking, and base camps are at ashockingly low altitude. For the last 20years it has been easier and cheaper forus to climb in neighboring Kyrgyzstan.However, in 2010 there was a revolutionin Kyrgyzstan. If something else were to happen while we were climbing there, the return home could beextremely difficult. So this year we stayed in our home country…. (read more)

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The west-to-east line of The Diablo Traverse. Colin Haley

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The northwest face of Chief’s Head: (1) Papoose (Harlin-Wheeler,

Alaska: Devil’s Thumb traverseOn 02.02.11, by kcordes

(Back to: Alaska, Coast Mountains)

Devil’s Thumb, Diablo Traverse.

By Colin Haley, AAC, Seattle

On August 12, Mikey Schaefer and I flewwith Temsco Helicopters fromPetersburg, Alaska, to a camp below thesoutheast face of Devil’s Thumb. Ourobjective was a complete traverse of theDevil’s Thumb massif, climbing over thesummits of the Witches’ Tits, Cat’s EarsSpires, and finally Devil’s Thumb itself.Like the Torres Traverse to AndreaSarchi, this traverse is originally thedream of Dieter Klose, the StikineIcecap’s most dedicated disciple. Thetraverse was attempted in 2004 by Jon Walsh and Andre Ike, who became the first to traverse all fourspires of the Witches’ Tits and Cat’s Ears (making the first ascent of the East Witches’ Tit in the process),but were stopped at the base of the Thumb by a chopped rope.On the morning of August 13 we departed our basecamp and made a descending, traversing approach tothe base of the Witches’ Tits. We climbed to the notch between the two Witches’ Tits by the Edwards-Millar route, with the Ike-Walsh Witches’ Cleavage variation…. (read more)

USA: RMNP, Chief’s Head, Flight of the KiwiOn 02.01.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Colorado)

Chief’s Head, Flight of the Kiwi.

By Blake Herrington, AAC

Two pitches up the classic route Birds ofFire, I looked 400′ left to a series ofinviting cracks and corners. One moreroute appeared on my ever-growing to-do list. When the RMNP guidebook andother founts of local knowledge came upshort regarding the line, it bumped tothe top of my list. Graham Zimmermanand I began climbing on a cold andmisty day in July, “Washingtonconditions” to us two Northwest natives.And despite our best efforts to findmoss and wet cracks, an array of cleanedges and dry stone abounded. Theroute’s crux came early on pitch two,with a tenuous rightward slab leading to

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The northwest face of Chief’s Head: (1) Papoose (Harlin-Wheeler,1980). (2) Flight of the Kiwi (both variations shown; Herrington-

Sambataro-Zimmerman, 2010). (3) Kachina Winds (Horan-Baldwin, 1992). (4) Seven Arrows (Fowler-Harlin, 1980). (5) Birdsof Fire (Rossiter-Rossiter-Woolf, 1988). All lines except (2) are

approximate, following vague features. Blake Herrington

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The head of the Singekang Valley. The snow and rock pyramidcenter is the northwestern outlier (dubbed Singekang Minor) of

Singekang. Summit of Singekang is just visible immediatelybehind. Jeremy Windsor

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the clean cracks that had drawn us here.After six pitches of well-protectedclimbing, we topped-out the face amidactive storms. A week later I returnedwith Joe Sambataro, another Washingtonnative who, like Graham and me, hadspent formative climbing time in New Zealand. We repeated the route to the top of the face, with a bettervariation on clean cracks to the right for pitches three and four, and then climbed five more pitches (witha 3rd-class section in the middle) to the summit. The final pitches, along Chief’s Head’s north ridge, hadlikely been climbed before. In all, Flight of the Kiwi (1,200′, IV 5.10+) provides a boltless alternative toBirds of Fire at a similar grade. We climbed the route clean and onsight, and the final five pitches can bereached from any route on the northwest face for those not seeking an “end of the technical difficulties”500′ below the summit. (more photos)

India: Singekang ValleyOn 01.31.11, by lgriffin

Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m),attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), northridge.

By Jeremy Windsor, UK, Alpine Club

In October-November we made anattempt on Singekang (Lion Peak), anunclimbed mountain situated at the headof the Singekang Valley. In doing so, webecame the first mountaineers toexplore this remote Spitivalley…. Situated close to the valleyentrance, Pomrang proved to be an idealstarting point. We spent the next eightdays establishing three camps along thevalley, and within two weeks of leaving home were ready to make an attempt on the mountain. From highcamp we made a long traverse south around Singekang’s subsidiary northwestern peak, before turningsharply east into a sheltered snowy bowl. Ahead lay a steep and rather intimidating slope covered inloose scree and featuring a tall rock tooth…. (read more)

India: Miyar Valley, Dome Peak & Point JAMESOn 01.31.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Himachal

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Lopez-Pfaff Direct on southeast face of Dome Peak. Camilo Lopez

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(Back to: Asia, India, HimachalPradesh)

Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m),Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES(4,965m), Southeast Ridge.

By Camilo Lopez, Colombia/USA

At the end of August, after a three-daytrek, Anna Pfaff and I established basecamp in the Miyar, at the same spot wehad used for our visit in 2008, thegrassy meadow below Castle Peak. Weset off on September 1 for the southeastface of unnamed Peak 5,650m on thenorth side of the Chhudong Valley [immediately southwest of Veneto Peak and northeast of PremsinghPeak]. Accessing the face via steep talus and a dry gully proved the most dangerous part of the climb.Apart from a few loose sections, the climbing above was good and generally 5.8-5.9 until we reachedthree-quarters height…. I led a steep face of 5.10, then Anna led two pitches of 5.10+, overcoming aloose section before I continued up moderate 5.8 terrain to the summit, arriving in twilight. We slung themost prominent section of the summit with our cordalette, and then began the first of 14 rappelsthrough the night…. (read more)

Greenland: Paul Stern Land first ascents.On 01.30.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, East Coast Greenland)

Paul Stern Land, several first ascents.

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Unclimbed rock walls on the north side of upper Vinkeldal. JimGregson

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Paul Stern Land, several first ascents.

By Jim Gregson, UK, Alpine Club

After a first visit to the area in 2008 (seeAAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia),Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), mywife Sandy, Willem-B Stern(Netherlands/Switzerland), and Ireturned to the fine mountains of PaulStern Land. The combined age of ourteam was 367 years.

Willem-B is the brother of Paul Stern,after whom the area is named. Like hisbrother he is also a geologist. He hadfound my 2008 report, and then madecontact, eventually deciding to join ourexpedition to see the area first hand. In1959 Paul Stern was killed by stonefall inthe Swiss Alps, but between 1955 and1958 he visited Northeast Greenland asa member of Lauge Koch’s geologicalexpeditions. In 1958 Stern was on theGaaseland Peninsula, but with otherscrossed the Vestfjord Gletscher to accesswhat is now called Paul Stern Land fromthe south. His party climbed a peak theycalled Sfinks (Sphinx, 2,295m).

In 2008 we had believed we were thefirst to climb in Paul Stern Land, butresearch since has also revealed…. (readmore)

Nepal: Peak 5,777m; Jobo LeCoultre, Lunag IOn 01.29.11, by lgriffin

Peak 5,777m; Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m)northeast face to southeast ridge; LunagI southeast top, southeast face, Closethe Door.

By Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO

After a flight to Lukla and a seven-daytrek, including a rest day in Thame, afour man team established base campsouth of the Lunag Group at 5,200m,close to the Lunag Glacier. The site wassuperb: on grass, with running water,and a nice collection of boulders. Fromhere they made their first acclimatizationclimb together with their sirdar, forwhom it proved a novel experience. Thiswas a north-south traverse of Peak5,777m, south of the Lunag Glacier,

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Lunag I southeast top. Close the Door with bivouac sites marked,the last few meters below the summit.

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Pt. 5,086m and the almost-completed line up the northwestarête. Dylan Johnson

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climbed in 2009 by Stéphane Schaffter’sSwiss-French-Nepal-Pakistan expedition(AAJ 2010). Several days later the fourset out to complete their acclimatizationwith an attempt on Jobo LeCoultre(6,478m), a peak on the frontier ridgesouthwest of the Lunags and claimed tohave been summited by the Schaffterexpedition. The northeast face was inmuch drier condition than when climbedby the Swiss, and the four-man teamfollowed the main couloir parallel to, butwell left of, the 2009 route. On the firstday they climbed 500m, predominatelyover snow, to reach a fine bivouac site at 5,800m. Next day 400m of gully and steep mixed climbing ledto the southeast ridge, up which they progressed to below a small “top” at ca 6,200m, immediatelybefore the notch reached by the Swiss…. (read more)

China: Seerdengpu, SichuanOn 01.27.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Seerdengpu (5,592m), northeast ridge, Headwaters; Pt. 5,086m, near miss.

By Dylan Johnson, AAC

On September 13, after two previousattempts, Chad Kellogg and I reachedthe summit of previously unclimbedSeerdengpu, the high point above theheads of the Changping and Shuangqiaovalleys. The north and west faces abovethe Shuangqiao are 1,500m granitewalls, and remarkably accessible: onecan take a public bus along a pavedroad to within a couple of hours walk ofthe base. The more remote south andeast faces above the Changping are1,200m high and provide a combinationof big walls and alpine mixed terrain.Chad and I had made a reconnaissanceof this peak in 2008, after our ascent ofSiguniang (AAJ 2009). Seerdengpu hasbeen translated as Barbarian, Yeti, orSavage Peak. It’s northern aspectdistinctly resembles the head of asavage, and our original plan was toclimb the unmistakable 1,400m nose.This compelling line has attractedaround a dozen expeditions over the lastdecade … (read more)

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Joey McBrayer descending the summit ridge of Mantok II. ChristopherWright

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The expansive upper Qala-i-Hurst Glacier basin. (A) Koh-e-Beefy.(B) Koh-e-Baffa. (C) Koh-e-Forot Zorman. (D) top of unnamedpeak attempted by Dutch. (E) Koh-e-Yakhi. Low rocky ridge in

right foreground is southern end of Pt. 5,200m, climbed in 2008.Bart Klein

Alaska: Mantok IIOn 01.25.11, by kcordes

Mantok II, first ascent, Ladies’ Couloir; Peak 10,020′, northwest face to summit ridge.

By Christopher Wright, AAC

After reading trip reports andgetting beta from FreddieWilkinson, who along withvarious partners has establishedmultiple climbs in the area, fromApril 8–20 Joey McBrayer and Iexplored the Northeast Fork ofthe Yentna Glacier. In mostlydismal weather we attemptedseveral unclimbed features withlimited success. Early in the tripwe climbed the northwest face(3,000′, AI4+ M5R) of anunnamed 10,020′ peak, but didnot continue to the summit….Then, after considerablecowering and a few moreaborted efforts, we made whatwe believe was the first ascentof a ca 9,600′ peak we calledMantok II…. (read more)

Afghanistan: Qala-i-Hurst ValleyOn 01.17.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa,Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-ForotZorman.

By Marion Michielsen. Provided, withadditional information, by DanielKuipers, The Netherlands.

We wanted to travel to an adventurouspart of the world, without manyclimbers, within our limited budget,and with mountains below 6,000m.Our gaze had already turned towardsthe “stan” countries of Central Asia,when we discovered the strange strip of land between Tajikistan and Pakistan, known as the WakhanCorridor. After some internet research, we decided this would be our goal: an area untouched by the warin the rest of Afghanistan, with friendly people, and many beautiful, unclimbed mountains.

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Noshaq, showing Pinelli's line of ascent in 2003.Carlo Alberto Pinelli

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We arrived at the Tajikistan-Afghanistan border with 200kg of luggage. It felt strange to be enteringvoluntarily a country that makes the news headlines on a daily basis with stories of war and terrorism.Slightly nervous due to our satellite phone, a supply of strong medicines, and a video camera, weapproached the check-point. Our worries turned out to be groundless. The Afghan border guards werehappy and friendly, and only had a special interest in our stack of Netherlands candy…. (read more)

Afghanistan: Noshaq (7,492m).On 01.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

Noshaq (7,492m).

By Lindsay Griffin, UK, Alpine Club

From 2007-2010 there were four ascents ofNoshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan andsecond highest in the Hindu Kush. In the autumn of2007 Iranians Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Sazbecame only the second group of climbers to reachthe summit in nearly 30 years. In 2003, CarloAlberto Pinelli, gained official permission to visit theWakhan Corridor with his expedition “Oxus,Mountains for Peace in Afghanistan.” His team madethe first ascent of Noshaq in 25 years, though theyhad to deal with unexpected objective danger in theapproach valley, which they discovered had beenplanted three years previously with over 600 anti-personnel mines (AAJ 2004)…. (read more)

Greenland: Ummannaq regionOn 01.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, West Greenland)

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Silvan Leinss leading pitch five (5.9) of the Doyle-Leinss Route onUmmannaq. Sean Mackay

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The new Ukrainian Route on the southwest face of Makalu. Theleft skyline is the French (West) Ridge. Camps marked are ABC

(Back to: Greenland, West Greenland)

Ummannaq region, Pt 2,280m;Ummannaq south, southeast face.

By Sean Mackay, USA

In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambospent July and August supportingglaciological and oceanographic researchon two major outlet glaciers of theGreenland ice sheet. When the skill-setof the crew was not in demand forscience objectives, it was put to useestablishing new routes in the stunningUmmannaq region.

Our most significant mountaineeringachievement was the first ascent of theunclimbed 2,280m peak on the south side of Rink’s (a.k.a Kangigdleq) Fjord. This mountain, located at N71°31’51.57″, W 52°19’23.19″, 1.8 km northeast of Timumanikavsa, appears to be the highest in WestGreenland. Gambo’s owner, Alun Hubbard, had discovered that due to mapping inaccuracies, previoussuccessful ascents of the ‘highest mountain’ had reached a large (but 35m lower) peak namedSnepyramiden, about nine kilometers south-southwest of Pt 2,280m…. (read more)

2010: Makalu, partial new route, southwest faceand west pillar.On 01.12.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Nepal, East Nepal,Mahalangur Himal–Makalu Section)

Makalu, partial new route, southwestface and west pillar.

By Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru

A large expedition from Ukraine, usingfixed rope but no bottled oxygen norhigh altitude Sherpa support, climbednew ground on the left side of Makalu’ssouthwest face. Led by MstislavGorbenko, the team divided into threegroups, working on the route in shifts offive-seven days. Whilst one group waspushing out the fixed ropes, the othertwo would carry loads to high camps.Each group had two-three days of restin base camp after its working shift onthe face. Base camp at the Hillary site(4,850m) was established on April 7, andadvanced base (5,850m) two days later.Above, the line of ascent can be dividedinto three sections…. (read more)

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(5,700m), Camp 1 (6,200m), Camp 2 (6,600m), Camp 3 (7,000m),Camp 4 (7,500m), and Camp 5 (7,770m). Supplied by Anna

Piunova, www.mountain.ru

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Bob Hamilton on the summit of Lama Lamani North withJopuno behind. The unclimbed south ridge of Jopunofaces the camera, with the upper west face to the left.

Steve Kennedy.

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Sikkim: Lama Lamani North; Peak 5,500m;JopunoOn 01.12.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim, Western Sikkim)

Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt.

By Paul Swienton, AAC

Inspired by British mountaineer Roger Payne andhis accounts of the mountains of Sikkim, ourteam visited the Thangsing Valley. We firstidentified an obvious line on the west face ofLama Lamani, going up to a col south of the finalelegant snow arête of the north top. Our routestarted below and to the right of left-trendingramps leading into a snow couloir that runs upto the col. At the col an impressive rock tower tothe south lent a dramatic air to our perch and wecould look across at the main (south) summit,connected to the north top by a pinnacled rockridge. It was noon when we all reached thesummit. By this time afternoon cloud had alreadybuilt and we did not get a clear view to the east.We saw the impressive Pt. 5,833m (sometimesmistaken for Narsing), and caught a tiny glimpse of the top of the east face of Jopuno, which seemedextremely steep. Although, its unclimbed south ridge appears feasible, there seemed to be technical andtime-consuming sections, and the top section, where the rock is black and reportedly much less sound,is pinnacled and looks rather tricky…. (read more)

2010: Los Quemados, El Cardonal.On 01.11.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Africa, Canary Islands, Gran Canaria)

Los Quemados, El Cardonal.

By Pat Littlejohn, UK, Alpine Club

Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain,Gran Canaria is a “mature” climbing area that hasfailed to get onto the radar of most climbers dueto lack of information. Most of the Canary islandof Gran Canaria is a beautiful and mountainous

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Stephen Sustad on the sculptured rock of El Cardonal'sfifth pitch. Pat Littlejohn

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national park, rising in its center to almost2,000m. There, volcanic cores of severalmountains give rock scenery that is a crossbetween the Dolomites and the canyons ofArizona.

Traditional mountaineering has taken place sincethe 1930s, and in the early days routes wereestablished by alpinists using pitons forprotection and occasionally aid. In the early ’80s,climbers in Gran Canaria were still making hardtraditional ascents, comparable with theadventurous sea cliff climbs being done in Britainat that time. Topos for these routes can befound in the central café/bar in Ayacata. Theymake impressive reading. The routes are big–upto eight or nine pitches–and hard, with naturally-protected free pitches up to F7a. The topos still seem to be the only written information, but are not easyto interpret…. (read more)

Alpine Peaks of Sikkim, by Roger PayneOn 01.06.11, by jharlin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim)

Emerging from the Mists: The Sublime Alpine Peaks of Sikkim

By Roger Payne, Switzerland

The article below from the 2008 American Alpine Journal is currently only available online in pdf formats.To download a pdf (1.4mb) click here.

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Jopuno (5,936m) is designated an “Alpine Peak,” which makes it easy andeconomical to get permission to climb. Roger Payne

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Open publication - Free publishing - More sikkim

India: Sikkim, Jopuno, attempt, history andcorrections.On 01.05.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim)

Western Sikkim, Jopuno,southwest face and west ridge,attempt; history and corrections.

By Roger Payne,Switzerland, Alpine Club

In the autumn of 2009 Julie-AnnClyma and I were back inWestern Sikkim, and togetherwith Hugh Sheehan, made anattempt on Jopuno. Luckily,although it became cloudy onmany afternoons, we did nothave a single day ofprecipitation…. Since writing myarticle for AAJ 2008, I have discovered that the 2001 ascent did not follow the south ridge. It appearsthat Kunzang Butia and Sagar Rai climbed snow on the northwest face and, if I have understood correctly,encountered loose rock, but did not traverse the main ridge to reach the highest point. I also realizedthat WW Graham described climbing “Jobonu” in 1883. In the 1884 Alpine Journal he writes that it was,“incomparably the hardest ascent we had in the Himalaya owing to the great steepness of the glacierwork.” It is hard to imagine that Jopuno was climbed in 1883….

I also began to wonder if the highest point of this mountain had been reached, but after helpfulcorrespondence with Jason Halliday and Josh Smith, who made the first ascent of the west ridge in 2008(AAJ 2009), I think it fair to say that these two Americans reached the summit of this ridge, which maybe the highest point of Jopuno…. (read more)

USA: Hayden Spire, Dumbest IdeaOn 01.04.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA,Colorado)

Hayden Spire, East Pinnacle, Dumbest Idea inthe Park.

By Justin DuBois, Estes Park, Colorado

In early July, Chris Trimble and I had the

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Hayden Spire from Trail Ridge Road, showing the north ridgeroute (“The Dumbest Idea in the Park”). Photo by Richard

Ryer

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brilliant idea to climb the prominent northridge of Hayden Spire’s East Pinnacle, whichlooks great from high on Trail Ridge Road—except that it’s a long ways away. Weconvinced ourselves it wouldn’t be so far ifapproached from the Flattop Mountain Trail,and so, bluffing with a pair of twos, we hikedin and then dropped down 1,500′ into thespire’s cirque. From the lowest point of the north ridge, staying mostly along the crest aside, we climbedto the top of the pinnacle in nine roped pitches, plus lots of scrambling (up to easy 5th), and with a 100′rappel off the first tower. It’s pretty clean, with three excellent pitches and the rest being…well,mountainy. We scrambled off and slogged back toward the Divide and the Flattop trail, returning to thetrailhead after about 22 hours and 25 miles roundtrip. We couldn’t find any history of it being climbedbefore, and we informally named it for what a friend told us afterward: “That sounds like the dumbestidea in the park” (1,400′, 9 pitches, 5.9).

India: Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850mOn 01.02.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Ladakh &Zanskar)

Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m,northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak5,995m, southeast ridge.

By Chris Horobin, UK

In 2007-09 I led expeditions to the Nubra Valley for the British Schools Exploring Society (BSES), pickingoff a few previously climbed and unclimbed peaks in the Thanglasgo Valley south of Hundar. Lying northof Leh in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, this region has seen few parties operate outside the maintrekking routes, and because of its proximity to the Pakistan border, it is regarded by the Indian militaryas being particularly sensitive. It was during the 2009 expedition that plans were laid to attemptunclimbed Telthop (6,010m), which lies at the head of the Khalsar Dag Valley.

In 2010 our primarily British group arrived at the IMF offices in Delhi to discover that our intendedapproach from Hundar was impractical due to washed out bridges. We spent three days acclimatizing inLeh, and then crossed the Kardung La to Desket, where we attempted to reach the mountain over a highpass south of Desket Gompa. Although this would have worked, we were forced to retreat when werealized our horses could not follow due to steep rocky terrain…. (read more)

Nepal: Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt.On 01.02.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal,Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt.

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Silvia Vidal on pitch 6 of Naufragi. Silvia Vidal

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By Andy Houseman, Alpine Club

On October 22, after a three-day trekfrom Lukla, Tony Stone and I arrived atTangnag (4,300m), a collection of teahouses that has grown over the yearsdue to the popularity of nearby MeraPeak. We made base camp here and thenset about acclimatizing on Mera. … Wehad planned to reach the upper southpillar of Kyashar via the mixed ground directly below, left of the large rock wall above Tangnag. This wasthe way taken by Czech parties that reached the start of the upper pillar in 2001 and 2008 (AAJ 2009).However, this autumn there was no trace of the ice the Czechs had used, just blank granite and rubble-strewn ledges. Instead, we decided to find a line through the rock wall that forms the base of the ridge….(read more)

India: Naufragi, by S. VidalOn 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh,Kinnaur)

Naufragi.

By Sílvia Vidal, Catalonia

From August 15-September 8 I soloed a big wallsouth of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. Beforeleaving for India the only information I had was apicture of the wall, which had first appeared onJohn Middendorf’s big wall web page, and itsGoogle Earth coordinates. I had no idea how tostart the approach, but once in the valley Ishowed the picture to locals…. As usual, I tookneither phone, internet, GPS, nor other form ofcommunication device…. I fixed the first three pitches (150m), and then spent 25 days alone on the facein horrible weather. On one occasion, while jumaring, I lost consciousness due to hypothermia. I had onlytaken 18 days food and water, and more than once thought about abandoning the climb. However, mymotivation and desire to stay up there were stronger…. (read more)

Kyrgyzstan: Khan Tengri, second ascent ofUkrainian Route.On 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag)

Khan Tengri, second ascent of Ukrainian Route.

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By Gleb Sokolov, Russia. Supplied by Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru, translated by Ekaterina Vorotnikova

In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believedat the time to be a new route on Khan Tengri. It began from thestandard site of Camp 2 (5,300m) on the classic route from thesouth up the Semenovsky Glacier, and then followed a beautiful,logical and relatively easy line up the southwest face, between theNormal Route (Pogrebetskogo, 1931, Russian 5A) up the west ridge,and the 1964 Romanov Route up the south-southwest or MarbleRib (6A). We named our line Zmeyka (little snake) due to its sinuousnature, grading it 5B. I felt that it was generally safe and could berecommended to soloists. However, only later we discovered it wasnot new…. (read more)

India: Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak, etcOn 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to India, Himachal Pradesh, Kullu)

Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), SentinelPeak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m),Snowcock Point (4,890m).

By Mike Cocker, The Alpine Club

In September-October Derek Buckle, Drew Cook,John Hudson, Laura Millichamp, and I, all membersof the Alpine Club, visited the Jiwa Nala region ofthe Great Himalayan National Park. The Jiwa drainswest toward the Beas River, south of the famous tourist resort of Manali. It lies in Banjar region,approximately 70kms east-southeast of the large regional town of Kullu. The area had beenrecommended by the Himalayan authority, Harish Kapadia, and as far as is known had not previouslybeen visited by mountaineers. The valley can only be accessed by two difficult passes, and althoughshepherds have occasionally grazed their flocks there, it has never seen any permanent settlement….(read more)

Greenland: Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg;Tininnertuup IIIOn 12.29.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, South Greenland–Cape Farewell Region)

Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg, east face, The Corner of MountFayette; Tininnertuup III, Midnight Children.

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On the initial slabs of Half Dome. MartinKlonfar

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By Henrik Nilsson, Sweden

(There is a gallery of photos at the end of this report.)

The best-known climbed features in this valley are theTininnertuup peaks II to IV. We set up camp below theHermelnbjerg and on the first day went up to the col at the startof the east-northeast ridge, hoping to climb the peak by theeasiest route. Unlike the British party in 2008, who were facedwith four pitches of rock to reach the upper valley, we couldwalk easily on snow and then glacier. From the col we saw theunclimbed east face…. On July 10 Martins and Sellden attempteda new line on the north face of Hermelnbjerg, starting with afantastic off-width splitter. They climbed four pitches up to 6c before it got dark and they rappelled.Four days later Urby and I tried another…. (read more)

Greenland: Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, Dash-Friday RouteOn 12.28.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, South Greenland–Cape FarewellRegion)

Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, Dash-Friday Route, secondascent with variants.

By Martin Klonfar, Czech Republic

Jindrich Mandat and I came to Tasermiut mainly to repeatexisting routes. It was only after we had picked the area’smost famous jewels that we began contemplating amoderate first ascent. We decided on the east-northeastface of Half Dome, which is something of an outsider hereamongst all the big walls. Our information was ratherscant, and we thought there was only one establishedroute, Les Temps sont Durs (6c, 500m, 15 pitches, see AAJ1999), which begins ca 80m left of the edge of the sheernorth face and was put up in 1998 by the Swiss Castella,Lehner, Truffer and Zambetti. However, to the right, theprominent dihedral close to the edge of the face seemed tobe unclimbed, and there was no sign of any of theequipped belays that were reported on Les Temps sont Durs. It wasn’t until we got home that wediscovered the dihedral had been climbed in 2003 by Micah Dash and Thad Friday (5.10X, 500m, see AAJ2004). (read more)

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