Chapter 11 FINAL

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c. 1790 - 1820

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIOD

C H A P T E R E L E V E N

CHAPTER ELEVENTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820


Copyright © 2010Fairchild Publications, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6GST R 133004424



One of the most significant events marking the turn from the 18th to the 19th Century was the French Revolution



• The Red Cap of Liberty• Trousers of the working man

replaced the knee breeches of the aristocratic old regime

• The Revolutionary Cockade

Supporters of the Revolution adopted elements of dress that symbolized their political views.



By the end of the revolution and the installation of a government consisting of a Directory (Directoire) of three men, styles had altered.

c.1800c.1790 c.1790

c.1790



Female fashion extremists were called Merveilleuses (The Marvelous Ones) and the men were called Incroyables (The Incredible Ones).



Fashion echoed the excesses of the Revolution in styles such as the Haircut a la Victime, cut short like women going to the guillotine, or

red velvet ribbons worn around the neck.



Closest to the skin some women wore long drawers, called pantalettes, with lace, ruffles or pleats at the edges that showed at the hem of dresses.

This style did not persist throughout the period, except as a style for children.

As the rest of the Western world followed the new styles, women adopted several layers.



Over the pantalettes, the chemise, which had a low neck and narrowed silhouette.



The corset, like the dresses, was straight in line.



The next layer was a petticoat.



The high waisted, relatively straight silhouette of c.1800 to 1820 came to be known as the Empire Line. It was named for the new French ruler,

the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.

Click to see Napoleon

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While the empire silhouette continued to dominate, a variety of sleeve and neckline styles could be seen.



Out of doors women wore these garments.



A coat-like garment, the pelisse, with an Empire silhouette.



A shawl, often with the typical Kashmir pattern.



A Spencer, a short jacket cut to just below the bustline.

X

Click to view



Accessories of Note

Reticule Cockade Fan

Muff Shoes



When compared to the 18th Century, men’s dress of the Empire Period was subdued in color and lacked decoration.

Gradually trousers replaced knee breeches for day and evening. Exceptions were garments worn at the courts of France or England.



Underdrawers and undershirts did not change much.

Click to view

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The visible elements of men’s dress were his trousers, shirt , vest, and coat.



Trousers, called pantaloons when very tightly fitted, often had straps that fit under the instep to keep them from riding up.



Shirts were cut full and had high, standing collars around which were wrapped cravats or stocks.

Click to view

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Over the shirt, a man wore a vest, also called a waistcoat.



Coat fronts generally ended at the waist. Some curved gradually back from the waist into two tails that ended slightly above the knee.

Others had a cut-in, a rounded or square space at the front, where no shirt was attached. The tails began where the cut-in ended.



For outdoors men wore capes or overcoats.

Click Image to detail

Click Image to view backClick Image to view front

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Dressing gowns, or banyans, continued to be worn at home



Accessories of Note

Cravat worn with shirt and with ruffled front

shirt.Spats or Gaiters Boots

Hats



Little girls dresses were very similar to those of adult women. Small boys wore skeleton suits. Both styles carried over from the end of the

1700s.



Empire period style lines are revived periodically.



For Further Study

Illustrations Of Actual Costumes Or Illustrations From Contemporary Sourceshttp://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd.htmlhttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htmhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-829/1800-1829.htmlhttp://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/http://www.costumegallery.com/

Dress For Special Occasionshttp://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/mourn.html



For Further Study

Accessorieshttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1800to1817costumesparisiens.htmhttp://www.austentation.com/Main%20Files/HTML/home.htmhttp://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.html

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama

Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.



Image Credits

Various images used courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images.

Photo of Spenser Jacket courtesy of www.trousseau.net

Image of Fur Muff, courtesy of www.fashionsinime.com

Images of Men’s Shirt, courtesy of www.vintageshirt.co.uk

Image of Hessian and Top Boots, courtesy of www.sarahjuniper.co.uk

Various images courtesy of Dover Publications.

Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; www.clipart.com; and Fairchild Publications, Inc.

Chapter 11 FINAL

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