caca

EDITORIAL

02 CRUST 09

This issue of crust has reminded us of the simple truth that we are living with food, not living for food. In this context, the aim shifts from accomplishment to a need for further exploration.

Ideas and approaches to food have never seemed so evolved and exaggerated. Yet, as the focus on the meal continues to increase, we risk forgetting about all the hours of living that exist in between.

Rather than only being an object of desire, food needs also to be a subject of discussion—approached not as a statement about politics, provenance or proficiency, but as an open-ended question mark.

In some form or another, we hope that each page of this issue raises questions —not just about what food is, but about what it can be. After all, each meal is both an outcome and a new beginning.

CoLoPHoN

Published & distributed by:onomatopeeBleekstraat 23 / Eindhoven The Nederland Tel.: +34 93 540 42 48Fax.: +34 93 540 42 49E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected]

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© English edition 2011.

All rights reserved. All materials contained in the magazine, including web pages and their derivatives including but not limited to its products or service, which are created ordeveloped on the basisof onomatopee copyright, are the intellectual property of onomatopee or its affiliated.

With suportEuropean Union –English translationMariona Sagué[email protected]–ProfreadingEdith [email protected]–CoverQuote John Gunther,1083–TypefacesWeiss AntiguaGill SansAkkurat–DescriptionFormat: 297x420 mm.Nº pages: 20 open sizes: 594x800 mm.Print: Rotation–PaperManufacturer: TorraspapelName: Cycrus-recicladColor: NaturalGrammage: 110 gra/m2

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04 CRUST 09

MARKETS The bRead ThaT Changed bRiTain

05CRUST 09

The food crisis has moved from lunch and dinner to breakfast. Tea, cocoa, sugar and coffee prices have hit multi-decade highs over the last few weeks, while the cost of orange juice has also risen sharply. among “breakfast” commodities, only milk prices remain low.

Tea is at an all-time high; cocoa has reached a 30-year high; sugar, a 28½-year high, and coffee is near a 11-year high. Orange juice has risen to its highest levels in 15 months. The sharp increases in the prices of these soft commodities contrasts with relatively depressed prices for agricultural commodities including wheat, rice, soya-bean and corn.

“The price divergence is a good indicator that funda-mentals are at play, rather than just speculative invest-ments lifting the cost of all food commodities,” says emmanuel Jayet, head of agricultural commodities research at Société générale in Paris. Supply disrup-tions, rather than stronger demand for food, are driv-ing the rally in soft commodities, analysts and traders say. “Soft commodities are united by the fact that their production is concentrated in developing countries,” says nicholas Snowdon, a soft commodities analyst at barclays Capital in London, adding that developing countries – mostly in the tropical areas of the world – are more prone to output troubles due to weather, conflicts, credit shortages or the inability of farmers to respond to rising prices.

Further, production of soft commodities is concentrated in a small group of countries, making it more likely that supply disruptions have had a larger impact on prices. Cocoa is a prime example, with the ivory Coast and gha-na accounting for 60 per cent of the world’s output. by contrast, Mr Snowdon adds: “agricultural commodities’ production is concentrated in developed countries, and widely spread among the US, Canada, the european Un-ion or australia.”

Kona haque, a commodities strategist at Macquarie in London, cites consumption as a unifying factor. “de-mand for soft commodities has not been affected by the economic crisis as much as other commodities,” she says. however, not everyone agrees that the rally has a common background. Tobin gorey, an agricultural com-modities strategist at JP Morgan in London, says the si-multaneous rally is a coincidence, pointing out that tea, cocoa, sugar, coffee and orange juice have performed “differently over different times”.

Whatever the drivers behind the surge in prices, in-vestors have been attracted by the synchronised rally,

bringing speculative investors to what is usually a rela-tively small corner of the commodities market, tradition-ally handled by trading houses, brokers and merchants.in tea, the bull market has its root in crop damage in the main exporting countries from simultaneous droughts. Production in Kenya, Sri Lanka and india has dropped on average by 10-20 per cent this year, sending tea prices to an all-time high.The benchmark best-quality broken pekoe, or bP1, surged to $5.02 a kilogram in mid-October, a record and up 70 per cent from January. Unlike other soft com-modities, tea does not trade in a futures exchange and the business is based on physical deals, meaning that most financial investors are not profiting from the rally. The surge in cocoa prices has a main cause: the ivory Coast, which delivers 40 per cent of the world’s cocoa, had a poor harvest this season and, in spite of favour-able weather, traders fear that the country’s ageing trees will deliver an even smaller crop in the 2009-10 crop year that started this month.

Cocoa consumption has outpaced supply for the past three seasons and another bad crop in the ivory Coast could prolong the deficit for a fourth consecutive year, the longest period of supply shortfalls since the short-ages of between 1965. Last week, new York’s cocoa prices hit $3,412 a tonne, up 28 per cent this year, and their highest level since February 1980.The sugar rally is the result of a large supply deficit due to disappointing crops in brazil and india, the world’s top producers. in india, the world’s largest consumer of sugar, the driest monsoon since 1972 due to the el niño weather phenomenon has damaged the cane crop. Meanwhile, el niño has brought rains to what is normally the dry season in brazil, which accounts for 60 per cent of the world’s sugar exports. Raw sugar prices in new York rose to a 28½-year high above 25 cents per pound last month and since then the cost of the sweetener has hovered around 23-25 cents.

While tea, cocoa and sugar have strong fundamentals driving price rises, the supply and demand equilibrium on coffee and orange juice is somewhat more balanced. even so, prices are on the rise.

in the case of coffee, production losses in Colombia and fears of a low crop in brazil have supported the market. new York’s arabica coffee hit 145.40 cents a pound last week, up 30 per cent so far this year.| Orange juice had been supported by output losses in brazil and Florida, the world’s top producers, due to cold weather and the spread of the so-called greening disease which forces farmers to uproot trees. “Once

baking in Spain? it iS terrible. So focuSed in profit-ability and far away from quality. luc

06 CRUST 09

The slim, two-foot long baguette and its heftier cousin, pain parisian, are as much a part of Parisian identity as the arc de Triomphe or the eiffel Tower. in France, bread is more than a neutral vehicle to spread with butter and jam or to accompany one of this country's more than 365 types of cheese.

French peasants still trace the sign of the cross on the bottom of their country loaf before cutting into it. Most basic of foodstuffs, sacred element of the eucha-rist, bread has religious connotations, but also political signifigance in France. What history student could forget Marie antoinette's famous phrase, "let them eat cake." her insouciant response to the plight of French peasants deprived of their daily bread was one of the sparks that ignited the French revolution.

despite all this, French bread has lost considerable ground over the past century, both in terms of consump-tion and in quality. in 1900, the daily quota of bread for every Frenchman hovered around 900 grams (about 2 lbs.) Today the average Parisian consumes a mere 160 grams (about 5 1/2 ozs.) per day. it's a feeble figure, even in comparison to some of France's neighbors. in ger-many the current daily per capita bread consumption is around 200 grams and in ireland, about 185 grams.

The dip in consumption is in large part due to changes in diet and lifestyle over the past century. a distressing decline in quality has been blamed on the industrializa-tion of breadmaking. Since the 1950's, the time-honored methods and tools for making French bread have been, in many cases, supplanted by new equipment, tech-niques and ingredients designed to make more bread faster and more profitably. The result is bread that looks, tastes and feels much like cotton.

but luckily for lovers of real old-fashioned French bread, the pendulum seems to be swinging back toward more traditional methods. Professionals such as Lionel Poilane, France's famous baker, have devised methods of reconcil-ing quantity and quality. To boost this trend, the French government recently introduced legislation designed to prevent any bakery from calling itself a "boulangerie" if it does not make, knead and cook entirely from scratch on the premises according to one government official's esti-mate, between 3,000-5,000 shops in France will be forced to remove their "boulangerie" signs in the coming years.

in the meantime, here are some tips on how to judge a good, traditionally made French baguette, as well as a list of authentic Parisian "boulangeries" where you're sure to find a good loaf -- whether it's a baguette or another of

AS PARISIAN AS FRENCH BAGETTE

the country's rich variety of traditional breads.

What to Look for in a Baguette?The first sign of quality is a hard crust of a rich, dark caramel color. a flimsy crust, a pale, straw yellow color and an underside marked by tiny dots all indicate that the bread has been cooked in an industrial oven often from frozen dough. The inside (or "mie" in French) of a good baguette should be a creamy color with large irregular air holes. The industrial loaf, on the other hand, will be cotton white, with tiny, regular air holes. The texture of a good baguette should be moist and slightly chewy with a full, almost nutty flavor. The industrial version is cottony, tasteless and dry.

— Stephe Curtis.

baking in Spain? it iS terrible. So fo-cuSed in profitability and far away from quality. luc

07CRUST 09

What to Look for in a Baguette?The first sign of quality is a hard crust of a rich, dark caramel color. a flimsy crust, a pale, straw yellow color and an underside marked by tiny dots all indicate that the bread has been cooked in an industrial oven often from frozen dough. The inside (or "mie" in French) of a good baguette should be a creamy color with large irregular air holes. The industrial loaf, on the other hand, will be cotton white, with tiny, regular air holes. The texture of a good baguette should be moist and slightly chewy with a full, almost nutty flavor. The industrial version is cottony, tasteless and dry.

— Stephe Curtis.

08 CRUST 09

1 fig.

1 fig.

baking in Spain? it iS terrible. So fo-

cuSed in profitability and far away from

quality. luc

09CRUST 09

1 fig.

1 fig.

1 fig.

010 CRUST 09

the food crisis has moved from lunch and dinner to breakfast. tea, cocoa, sugar and coffee prices have hit multi-decade highs over the last few weeks, while the cost of orange juice has also risen sharply. among “breakfast” commodities, only milk prices remain low.

tea is at an all-time high; cocoa has reached a 30-year high; sugar, a 28½-year high, and coffee is near a 11-year high. orange juice has risen to its highest levels in 15 months. the sharp increases in the prices of these soft commodities contrasts with relatively depressed prices for agricultural commodities including wheat, rice, soyabean and corn.

“the price divergence is a good indicator that fundamentals are at play, rather than just speculative investments lifting the cost of all food commodities,” says Emmanuel Jayet, head of agricultural commodities research at société Générale in Paris. supply disrup-tions, rather than stronger demand for food, are driv-ing the rally in soft commodities, analysts and traders say. “soft commodities are united by the fact that their production is concentrated in developing countries,” says nicholas snowdon, a soft commodities analyst at Barclays capital in london, adding that developing countries – mostly in the tropical areas of the world – are more prone to output troubles due to weather, conflicts, credit shortages or the inability of farmers to respond to rising prices.

Further, production of soft commodities is con-centrated in a small group of countries, making it more likely that supply disruptions have had a larger impact on prices. cocoa is a prime example, with the ivory coast and Ghana accounting for 60 per cent of the world’s output. By contrast, Mr snowdon adds: “ag-ricultural commodities’ production is concentrated in developed countries, and widely spread among the Us, canada, the European Union or australia.”

Kona Haque, a commodities strategist at Mac-quarie in london, cites consumption as a unifying factor. “Demand for soft commodities has not been affected by the economic crisis as much as other com-modities,” she says. However, not everyone agrees that the rally has a common background. tobin Gorey, an agricultural commodities strategist at JP Morgan in london, says the simultaneous rally is a coincidence, pointing out that tea, cocoa, sugar, coffee and or-ange juice have performed “differently over different times”.

Whatever the drivers behind the surge in prices, investors have been attracted by the synchronised rally, bringing speculative investors to what is usually a relatively small corner of the commodities market, traditionally handled by trading houses, brokers and merchants.in tea, the bull market has its root in crop damage in the main exporting countries from simulta-neous droughts. Production in Kenya, sri lanka and india has dropped on average by 10-20 per cent this year, sending tea prices to an all-time high.

011CRUST 09


ALL HAPPiNESS D E P E N D S o N A LEiSURELy

BREAkFAST

012 CRUST 09

BAKERY

sin, but i think this is near-sightedness. i recently listened to dan Lep-ard summarize very well this idea, saying something like, “When i was younger i was so arrogant that i thought that only sourdogh bread was good, and i’ve learned with age to use sourdough or yeast depending on the bread that i became interested in each time “.

DO yOu buy bREAD In bAkERIEs OR

DO yOu pREfER mAkIng IT yOuRsELf?

Sometimes i buy things that are sold in bakeries under the name of bread, but i’m trying to quit

AnD DO ThEy LIkE TAsTIng yOuR bREAD?

i t i s j u s t a d r e a m c o m e t r u e . T r a n s l a t i n g m y f a -v o r i t e b r e a d b o o k i s s o m e t h i n g i ’m r e a l l y g r a t e f u l f o r . i can’t remember how it actually happened. i met dan Lepard first back in 2005, but the idea did not fully came to life until quite recently; then Leqtor books and The glutton Club teamed up with the british publishing house to make it happen and everything happened very quickly. in fact, a transla-tor always complains about the lack of time, and so do i.

WILL yOu WRITE yOuR OWn bOOk?

i don’t think so. i think there are already very good bread books. The problem in Spain is that we have very little (and mostly poor) transla-tions. but if you take the following books, knead them well and let them rise slowly, i don’t think i could add anything.

sOuRDOugh, yEAsT, WhAT mAkEs ThEm sO DIffEREnT?

i can’t remember how it actually happened. i met dan Lepard first back in 2005, but the idea did not fully came to life until quite recently; then Leqtor books and The glutton Club teamed up with the british publishing house to make it happen and everything happened very quickly. in fact, a transla-tor always complains about the lack of time, and so do i.




AnD WhIch Is bETTER?

Quite simply, flavor. i’d say when you bite into a good piece of sourdough bread you can feel there is a soul inside that dough, you can feel it is alive.

fERmEnTIng Is sORT Of LIkE A fRAnkEnsTEIn ThIng, “IT’s

ALIvE!!!!” WhAT OThER ThIngs DO yOu fERmEnT bEsIDEs

bREAD?

i love fermenting. i “milk” my kefir pot every morning, and after the Spanish Summer is gone, now is time for sauerkraut. i’ve got a big “sauerkrauttopf” full of good bubbling stuff right now and pickled gherkins. next thing i want to try is kvass (a beverage made of fermented rye bread). i really like to discover home brewing, but i’m a bit put off by all the equipment in-volved (unlike baking or pickling).

013CRUST 09

TELL us AbOuT yOuRsELf, WhERE,

WhAT AnD WhO?

i’m a graphic designer, and i’ve been working for 20 years in the editorial business, designing magazines. about three years ago i ended up dissapointed with the institutional environment of it. in the middle of that process of disillusi onment, and just by chance, i found a blog about food and homemade sourdough breads. With a mix of curiosity and the will to dedicate my time and passion to something different i started baking sourdough breads, as an observer at first, then as an amateur and finally as a professional. bread has become, for me, in a way to make a living.

hOW DID yOu sTART bAkIng?

i started baking at home, following the instructions and directions of that one blog. i kept documentating about the properties of sourdough and practicing a lot to get familiar with the techniques and the ingredients. Then i got the chance, through the british baker dan Lepard (whose book The handmade Loaf was, and still is, a tremendous guide), of working as an apprentice at daylesford Organic, in UK, during the summer of 2009, getting to know the part that.

i was missing: chain production of sourdough bread, keeping the quality of artisan bread, far from industrial standards. When getting back to Spain i started working as the head baker of a new bakery.

WhAT Is spAnIsh bREAD?

There is a huge variety of breads in Spain, depending of the regions, being ‘pan candeal’ one of the top breads when coming to customer’s preferences.

The culture of bread in Spain is totally lost, and people are not able to remember how a good bread used to taste. The culture of ‘white, crunchy and soft’ is mandatory, which couldn’t be so bad if ‘flavour’ wasn’t out of the equation. bread here is loaded with chemicals and yeast, and people don’t seem to care.

WhAT AnD WhO ARE yOuR REfEREncEs

fOR bREAD?

iban Yarza, for his bread culture and generosity, and for getting me into the bread world; dan Lepard, for his imagination and care, and for guiding, illustrat-ing and advising me; my fellow partners and home bakers at the blog, for their passion and dedication; the 1.255 members of the spanish bread forum for their constant will to learn.

bAk, pAn cAsERO & cOcInA, WhAT Is IT?

a space that will cover everything related to artisan bread, from classes to debates, conferences, literature, friends, amateurs and professionals... where people can get together and share thoughts, expe -r iences , ideas and techniques about bread.

fAvORITE TypE Of bREAD, OR fOOD?

My own loaf. if i have a good pastrami, then my fa-vourite is a rye sourdough. For a picnic with the kids, a soft white sourdough. and to keep my girl happy, a crunchy baguette with a poolish. hOW Is cOmmERcIAL OR pROfEssIOnAL

bAkIng In spAIn?

it is terrible. So focused in profitability and far away from quality. Luckily, that is changing, even though the attempts are, by now, quite tepid. Professional bakers are becoming aware of the poor situation of the bread here, but the step forward hasn’t quite arrived.

hOW DO yOu mAkE A fORmuLA OR RE-

cIpE?

Sometimes, straight from a book; sometimes looking at what i have in my flour cabinet; always translating yeast to sourdough, changing hydrations.

AnD WhAT ARE yOu bAkIng LATELy?

White sourdough loafs, whole wheat, rye and caraway, rye with pine nuts or rye with raisins and


014 CRUST 09

walnuts, 3-stage detmold process, spelt... all of them sourdoughs for the classes. also testing soft swedish flatbreads, persian flatbreads with za’atar, grilled naan...Oh and tons of sourdough pizza(00 flour and 20% Semolina!

Is ThERE A TypIcAL bREAD yOu LIkE

In yOuR REgIOn? i grew up in barcelona where there is no longer a bread culture. The market is dominated by large companies of mass production of precooked bread. it’s almost impossible to find good bread. however, in the south of Spain (andalusia) where i have spent most of my holidays there are some good types of breads. The Mollete de antequera, an arabic influenced bread, is one of them. Recently i got avery acceptable version,.

hOW DID yOu gET InvOLvED WITh bcn?

S o m e o f u s m e t a f t e r m a k i n g a c o m m o n o n l i n e o r d e r of bannetons and the idea of having a blog came out. That was 3 years ago and we are still together!

cAn yOu DEscRIbE ThE RIsE Of hOmE

bAkIng In spAIn?

it is curious and beautiful thing. home bakers in Spain have different ages, different backgrounds and different reasons for baking bread, but the common passion is intense ending up with us together in an spontane-ous, osmotic way.

i n a c o m m o n b r e a d r e c i p e p u b l i s h e d b y J a v i -e r M a r c a a n d i i n M T M , w e t a l k e d a b o u t h o w e x c i t i n g i s t o p u t t h e b r e a d i n t h e o v e n a n d m a ny p e o p l e c o m -m e n t e d t h a t t h e y a l s o l o v e d t h i s m o m e n t . a t t h e e n d , i think that what is happening is that we simply miss the real bread.

WhO InfLuEncEs yOu In ThE bAkIng

fORums, bOOks, bAkERs?

a l l o f t h e m . T h e w o r k o f d a n L e p a r d , i b a n Y a r z a









bREAD?


WhAT Is yOuR fAvOuRITE fLOuR?

Rye. no matter whether it’s white or whole-meal. i remember a estonian rye flour i bought in Tallinn some years ago. i will never forget the aroma i got the moment i mixed it with water.

yOu’vE TRAvELED A LOT. sOmE Of yOuR fLIckR phOTOs

shOW yOu hOLDIng

sAnDWIchEs In fROnT Of LAnDscApEs. Is IT LIkE A “gRA-

1 fig.

015CRUST 09









bREAD?


WhAT Is yOuR fAvOuRITE fLOuR?

Rye. no matter whether it’s white or whole-meal. i remember a estonian rye flour i bought in Tallinn some years ago. i will never forget the aroma i got the moment i mixed it with water.

yOu’vE TRAvELED A LOT. sOmE Of yOuR fLIckR phOTOs

shOW yOu hOLDIng

sAnDWIchEs In fROnT Of LAnDscApEs. Is IT LIkE A “gRA-

cIAs” TO ThE bREAD gODs?

h a h a . W h e n t r e k k i n g i d o l i k e t o m a k e “ o f f e r i n g s ” to t h e p l a ce s i v i s i t . b y t h i s p a g a n / b r e a d - e s q u e o f f e r i n g i s o m e h o w s u m m o n a l l t h e e n e r g y o f t h e p l a c e . W e l l , i said “somehow.”

WhAT Is A spEkuLAs sAnDWIch?

AnD WhAT OThER sORTs Of cOmbInATIOns DO yOu LIkE

WITh yOuR bREAD?

ah, that’s a good one. back in 1998 i spend some time working in a hotel in amsterdam. The guy next door (a funny guy named bas who played the trumpet and roller skated in the middle of the night to the hospital where he worked as an emergency anesthetist) told me about it. First i thought he was joking, but then

i checked with other dutch people to find he wasn’t kidding. i did try it and it was gorgeous. The spekulaas (spekulatius/speculoos for german/French/belgian) is a crunchy biscuit, and just makes for a mind blowing experience when encased in two slices of fluffy white bread with plenty of butter. do try it, believe me.

WhO InspIREs yOu?

People who are passionate and can see beyond flour and ferments. People who can see love inside a loaf of bread, like dan Lepard. i’ve read a bunch of books about bread and met many bakers, but many speak solely about ingredients and crispy crusts; lately i’ve become a fan of the Swedish Mar-tin Johansson (from the blog Pain de Martin) and the way he calls himself a “home baker”, hemmabagare.

016 CRUST 09

017CRUST 09

1 fig.

021CRUST 09

BREAD

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CoNDimENts

sAlt mustARDolisoy sAuCElEA & pERRiNsmAyoNNAisEsyRuptApENADDE .... ()gREEN pEstoViNAigREttECAEsAR DREssiNg spiCED tomAto ChutNEy ApRiCot ChutNEytomAto ChutNEyhoRsERADish sAuCEtARtARE sAuCEpiCCAlilliCARAmElisED RED oNioN RE-lish

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sAuVAgE & mEAt

BACoN yoRk hAm .... ()soBRAssADA ChouRiço pâtés iBERiAN hAm WiltshiRE CuRE Eggs ChoppED RoAst BEEF

piCklEs & mARiNAtED VEgEtABlEs

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tEA

ChAi .... ()DARJEEliNgEARl gREy impERiAlFRENCh BREAkFAstgREENmARCo poloVERt pRoVENCEDARk tEAClAssiCAFFtERNoNChoCo ChAigiNgERChAmomilE & VANillAChERRy & CiNNAmoNCAmomilE & hoNEy puRE pEppERmiNtRooiBos

VEgEtABlEs oliVEsARtiChokEEggplANts .... ()mushRoomsgARlig CABBAgECARRotsCuCumBERoNioNspotAtoEstomBERRiEsCuCumBERshAllotsBRoColliRADishokRACouRgEttEs .... ()BEtRootAuBERgiNEAspARAgus

pAtissERiE

ViCtoRiA spoNgEs.... () FRuity tEACAkEs tEACAkEs ChoColAtButtER sCoNEsmuFFiNsBRioChEpANCAkEsCRoissANtsDoughNuts ChoColAtE CookiEs yoRkshiRE tEA loAF

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THE MARKET uNIvERSE

LiST inCaLCULabLe PROdUCTS

FRuits

oRANgEApplEBANANAgRAppEs .... ()pEARsmEloNlEmoN pEAChEApRiCotBlACkBERRystRAWBERRy AVoCADo .... ()pomElo CoCoNut .... ()CiNNAmoN

crustALL HAPPiNESS D E P E N D S o N A LEiSURELy

BREAkFAST

#09

/ wINTER 2011

∏3€∏Eu

THE jouRNAl oF THE CulTuRAl STANdARdS oF BREAKFAST TIME «7:00 - 12:00 AM»

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