BurdaStyle Does Angela Kane's Pinafore Dress

By: BurdaStyle

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/burdastyle-does-angela-kanes-pinafore-dress

In this tutorial, we are going to modify Angela Kane’s pinafore dress pattern by lowering the neckline of thefront bodice. We will also add lining to the dress.

Materials

1 1/2 yards of silk wool tweed, 1 1/2 yards of silk charmeuse, invisible zipper, thread

Step 1 — Cut pattern pieces

First, cut out the pattern pieces and tape them together. In this example, we have added a ½� seamallowance around the bodice and skirt prior to cutting. For the skirt, we have added a 1� hem.

Step 2 — Modify front bodice neckline

BurdaStyle Does Angela Kane's Pinafore Dress 1

Trace off the front and back bodice pattern pieces onto a new sheet of paper. Remember to transfergrainlines, darts, notches, and seam allowances. Starting with the front bodice pattern, measure how far downcenter front you would like to drop the neckline and mark this point. At the shoulder seam, indicate theamount of width you would like to subtract and mark this point. In this example, we have measured down3½� for the neckline and 1¼� across at shoulder, which takes into account ½� for seamallowance. Next, use a French curve to draw a smooth curve for your new neckline, connecting these twopoints.

Step 3 — Modify back bodice neckline

Now that we have modified the front bodice pattern, we need to make sure that the front and back shoulderseams still match up. Subtract the same amount from the shoulder seam of the back bodice pattern as you didwith the front bodice pattern. In this example that amount is 1¼�, which is the same measurement as ourback shoulder dart width, so we are going to eliminate this dart completely. At center back, measure how fardown you would like to drop the neckline and mark this point. In this example, we have measured down 2�for the neckline and 1¼� across at shoulder, which takes into account ½� for seam allowance. Next,use a French curve to draw a smooth curve for your new neckline, connecting the top of the outermost dartleg (closest to the side seam) to the mark you made down center back. Measure the shoulder seams for thefront and back bodice pieces to make sure that these match up.

Step 4 — Cut out new pattern pieces

Cut out the two finished pattern pieces including ½� seam allowance. Note that the back shoulder darthas now been eliminated.

Step 5 — Lay out pattern pieces for cutting

Fold your fabric in half selvedge to selvedge and pin down pattern pieces, making sure that you will becutting on the straight grain and on fold for the two front pieces. Transfer all darts and notches.

Step 6 — Sew and press darts

Once all pattern pieces have been cut out, sew the darts first. For the best results, use a pressing ham to pressthe darts. Press dart bulk towards center front and center back and the side darts down towards the waist.Refer to Angela Kane’s Step 1 video for further instructions.

Step 2 — Modify front bodice neckline 2

Step 7 — Attach bodice and skirt pieces

Next, match up your notches and sew all side seams. Attach the bodice and skirt pieces together at the waist,leaving center back open and press as you go. Do not sew the shoulder seams together. Refer to AngelaKane’s Step 2 video for further instructions.

Step 8 — Create dress lining

We are now going to start the lining of the dress using the same pattern pieces and instructions from Step 5.In this example, we took away 1� from the hem of the skirt pattern piece so that the lining does not peekthrough the self fabric when the dress is fully finished. Instead of sewing darts for the lining fabric, pleatthese areas and baste across by increasing the stitch length. Similar to Step 7 for the self fabric, match upyour notches and sew all side seams. Attach the bodice and skirt pieces together at the waist, leaving enoughopen at center back open for the length of the zipper. Sew the remainder of the skirt at a ½� seamallowance and press as you go. Do not sew the shoulder seams together.

Step 9 — Insert invisible zipper

Switch to your machineâ’�s zipper foot to attach the invisible zipper to the self fabric. Press the zipper openfirst before pinning in place. At the bottom of the zipper, continue sewing the remainder of the skirt at a½â’� seam allowance. Refer to Angela Kane’s Step 5 video for further instructions.

Step 10 — Finish the skirt hem

Finish the hems of both the self and lining fabric. Fold up the hem ½� and press. Repeat once more thentopstitch.

Step 11 — Create patch pockets

Before attaching the self fabric to the lining, we are going to topstitch the patch pockets onto the dress. Cutout two pieces of your self fabric and two pieces of your lining fabric, including a ½� seam allowance allaround. Pin the self and lining fabric right sides together. Sew around the fabric and leave a 1½� openinganywhere but the top of the pocket. In this example, we left the opening on one of the sides. Trim excessfabric and clip the edges of the curved opening just shy of the stitch line.

Step 12 — Attach the patch pockets

Reverse the pockets via the 1½� opening and give them a press. Edge stitch the curved opening of thepocket before pinning in place. Make sure that the pockets are even on both sides of the dress. Then, topstitchthe pockets onto the self fabric.

Step 13 — Attach self fabric to the lining

Step 7 — Attach bodice and skirt pieces 3

Now we are ready to attach the self fabric to the lining. Place the lining and self fabric right sides togetherand pin in place. Stitch around the neckline and armholes, stopping short of the shoulder seam. Snip allcurved edges just shy of the stitch line. Turn through, and press the edges carefully. Roll the lining slightly tothe inside. Join the shoulder seams and turn in the lining shoulder seams and topstitch together in place.

Step 14 — Hand sew the zipper to the lining

Lastly, hand sew the lining to the zipper with a blind stitch, turning under ½â’� of the lining seamallowance and pin in place. C’est fini!

BurdaStyle Does Angela Kane's Pinafore Dress

Step 13 — Attach self fabric to the lining 4