Bon Appetit march 2016

8/17/2019 Bon Appetit march 2016

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The

HOW DID

WE ALL GET SO

FOOD

OBSESSED?

PICTURE-

PERFECT

MARGHERITA

AT ROBERTA’S

IN NYC

P. 70

HOW TO

EAT LIKE

YEEZY

P. 61

FRIED

CHICKEN

SANDWICH

FTW! P. 98

HOW

BROOKLYN

GOBBLED

THE WORLD P. 97

AVOCADO +

CHOCOLATE

...WAIT, WHAT? P. 66

THE NEXT

CULT

SUPERFOOD

Blow UpYour Feed!

P. 76

10 LAWS OF

INSTAGRAM

Issue

115R E C I P E S

TIPS&

TRICKS


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4 • MARCH 2016

P H O T O G R A P

H B Y P E D E N + M U N K . F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y R E B E C C A J U R K E

V I C H . P R O P S T Y L I N G B Y A M Y W I L S O N . I L L U S T R A T I O N S B

Y O S C A R B O L T O N G R E E N . P H O T O G R A P H E D A T R O B E R T A

’ S P I Z Z A , N Y C .

N A I L P O L I S H

: O P I , R I C H G I R L S & P O B O Y S T O P ; E S S I E , S P L A S H O F G R E N A D I N E B O T T O M . F O R R E S T A U R A N T D E T A I L S , S E E S

O U R C E B O O K .

march

B O N A P P É T I T • V O L U M E 6 1 N U M B E R 3

Quick!

’Gram that pizza

while it’s hot!

P. 76

The Cult ure Is s ue

It’s oficial: The world’s gone food crazy

Chicken sandwiches are eating burgers’ lunch…Building a better salad lu nch i s easy… Edibles get artisanal…

The Broad City ladies give us the munchies… Coconut ’s in everything…Rappers are rhyming escargot…

Corporate dropouts are launching food careers…America is truly a melting pot…Independent food journals

just keep on comin’... Ben Schott writes a Dictionary of Allergies and Diets… Instagramming your food is an art

form…Waiting in line for hours is totally normal…These ingredients can save the world…This generation

spends all its money on food…Luxury giants are ighting over crumbs…Every city has its own small-batch hooch…

Celebs are opening natural wine bars…These seven people are changin g the future of food… Music

festivals are the new food festivals…There is an actually delicious vegan dessert…Brooklyn is everywhere

FEATURE

59101

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8/118HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at [email protected], or contact the editorial oices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.

FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 8007659419 (5152433273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail [email protected]. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

B ONAPPETIT.C O M

12

R.S.V.P.Reader requests

and…even more

intense reader

requests.

50

NAVIGATORVancouver is the

underdog of the

Paciic Northwest.

107

PREP SCHOOLThe perfect fried

chicken dredge,

how to use all that

gochujang, and

other new ideas.

114

BACK OF

THE NAPKINComedian Chelsea

Handler on the

art of the boozy

dinner party. .

31

THE PARTYTake a Roman holiday

and celebrate

Easter, Italian style.

39

FAST, EASY,

FRESHSweet and spicy

pork chops, crunchywinter slaw, and

other recipes that

will help you forget

it’s still cold out.

44

THE NEW

HEALTHYThe best-tasting

medicine

you’ve ever had.

17

THE LOOKOur favorite

restaurants are giving

their walls and

loors a makeover

one tile at a time.

20

CHEF’S PICKYou already know

that a squeezeof lemon elevates

almost every

dish. Just imagine

what all that

other citrus can do.

22

THE BA

CHECKLISTEdible nail polish,

in-season seaweed,

and more of this

month’s musts.

24

LOVE LETTERA man with

a pan obsession.

26

THE 360°Rye whiskey is

the new bourbon.

STARTERS THE BA KITCHEN COLUMNS

IN EVERY ISSUE 10 editor’s letter

112 recipe index

112 sourcebook

Jewel-like candy

from the Rockies.

P. 63

march

P H O T O G R A P

H B

Y B E N J A M I N R

A S M U S S E N . F O O D

S T Y L I N G B

Y E R I C L E

S K O V A R .

Margherita pizza

at Roberta’s.

Photograph by

Peden + Munk.

Food styling by

Rebecca Jurkevich.

Prop styling by Amy Wilson.

Illustrations by Oscar

Bolton Green. Ring

by In God We Trust.

Nail polish: Essie,

Splash of Grenadine

(top); OPI, Rich Girls

& Po-Boys (bottom).



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8 • MARCH 2016

Editor in ChiefADAM RAPOPORT

Creative Director ALEX GROSSMANExecutive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON

Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC

Features Editor KURT SOLLERSenior Editors JULIA KRAMER, MERYL ROTHSTEINAssistant Editors BELLE CUSHING, AMIEL STANEK

Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTONSenior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN

Designer ALEX TATUSIANJunior Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY

Photo Director ALEX POLLACKPhoto Editor JULIA DUQUETTE PORTER

Associate Photo Editors EMILY EISEN, ELIZABETH JAIME OSCOFFStaff Photographer ALEX LAU

Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVISSenior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRIS MOROCCO

Senior Associate Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZAssociate Food Editor, Digital RICK MARTINEZ

Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE

Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZAssistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY

Associate Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEYCopy Chief GREG ROBERTSON

Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHYSpecial Projects Associate LILLI SHERMAN

Editorial Business Assistant JOSHUA OCAMPOAssistant to the Editor in Chief EMMA WARTZMAN

Integrated Editorial Assistant JOSIE ADAMS

Editor, Bonappetit.com CAREY POLISSenior Editor, Web ALEX BEGGS

Senior Associate Web Editor ROCHELLE BILOW Associate Web Editor ELYSSA GOLDBERGAssistant Web Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN

Head of Product ERIC GILLIN Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANTSenior Software Engineer DANYLO BERKO

Software Engineers JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, ALAN SIEGLER

Contributors REBECCA JURKEVICH, DAVID LYNCH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI,MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, BEN SCHOTT, ANDY WARD;

LILY FREEDMAN, AMELIA RAMPE (TEST KITCHEN); JUDY DYOUNG, BAO ONG (RESEARCH);

BEN VINA (TABLET); MALLORY STUCHIN (WEB);BRIAN CARROLL, CLARE O’SHEA, MARISA RYAN, ROB STAEGER (COPY)

Executive Director, Public Relations FREDERIKA BROOKFIELDAssociate Director, Public Relations DAN ALDWORTH

Publisher, Chief Revenue OicerPAMELA DRUCKER MANN

Associate Publisher, Head of Marketing ERIC JOHNSONHead of Revenue CRAIG KOSTELICNational Directors, Advertising & Brand Partnerships JULIA HAWKINS, JORDANA PRANSKYExecutive Director, Finance & Business Operations JENNA ADIKESExecutive Director, Insights & Strategy COURTNEY WARCO VERDIERExecutive Director, Marketing & Creative Strategy BREE MKENNEY

ADVERTISING NEW YORKExecutive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICKExecutive Director STEFANIE BERGERAccount Director, Beauty & Luxury JEANNIE LIVESAYAccount Director JULIE GRAYBILLAccount Director DEBORAH KNUDSENAssociate Planning Director MARY BETH DWYERDigital Account Managers MIA KLEIN, ISABEL KIERENCEWAssociate Business Managers JACQUI SNYDER, STEPHANIE SONGExecutive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSENAdvertising Coordinator SARAH ROBERTSON

Sales Assistants JEHOSHUA BROWN, GISELLE CONTRERAS, NATALIA KUDRYK,KATHLEEN MALONEY, DEVON MCALLUM, SUSIE STOKLOSA, CATHERINE TOUHILL

INTEGRATED MARKETING & CREATIVE DEVELOPMENTSenior Integrated Marketing Director RACHEL BOYSCHAUBranded Content Director KAT POPIELIntegrated Marketing Directors DINA BIBLARZ, HAYLEY RUSSMANMarketing Director HILLARY SMITHSenior Managers, Integrated Marketing CHRISTIN DMARIA, ALEX HOPSON, TARA MELVINIntegrated Marketing Managers STEVEN MARINOS, NINA BOLKA, ADAM BROCKSenior Manager, Digital Activation KATHERINE TOWNSENDDigital Project Managers KRISTIE YEUNG, NATALIE MERINMarketing Coordinator KELLY QUACKENBUSH

Creative Director SARAH SALVATORIELLOArt Director MELISSA WALTERS

Special Events Director NIKKI REISSSenior Special Events Manager JAMIE RUDOLPHSenior Special Events Coordinator JENNIFER CASSELMarketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY

THE BON APPÉTIT CULINARY STUDIOExecutive Chef MARY NOLAN

BRANCH OFFICES

Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTORLos Angeles MELISSA LEE, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTORMidwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTORSoutheast PETER ZUCKERMAN, ZMEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANYHawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Mexico ALCHEMIA

.

.

: . . .

.

, , !

.

.

W H A T A R E

Y O U R R U L E SF O R T A K I N G

P H O T O S

AT D I N N E R ?

“

“

PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NASTChairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR.

Chairman CHARLES H. TOWNSENDPresident & Chief Executive Oicer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR.

Chief Financial Oicer DAVID E. GEITHNERChief Marketing Oicer & President–Condé Nast Media Group EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI

Chief Administrative Oicer JILL BRIGHT

EVPChief Digital Oicer FRED SANTARPIA

EVPConsumer Marketing MONICA RAYEVPHuman Resources JOANN MURRAYEVPCorporate Communications CAMERON BLANCHARD

SVPOperations & Strategic Sourcing DAVID ORLINSVPCorporate Controller DAVID B. CHEMIDLIN

SVPManaging Director–23 Stories JOSH STINCHCOMBSVPDigital Sales, CN & Chief Revenue Oicer, CNÉ LISA VALENTINO

SVPFinancial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDTSVPStrategy–23 Stories PADRAIG CONNOLLY

SVPAd Products & Monetization DAVID ADAMS

CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENTPresident DAWN OSTROFF

EVP/General Manager–Digital Video JOY MARCUS, EVPChief Operating Oicer SAHAR ELHABASHIEVPMotion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER, EVPProgramming & Content Strategy–Digital Channels MICHAEL KLEIN

EVPAlternative TV JOE LBRACIO, SVPMarketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND

CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONALChairman & Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE

President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE

Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.

WWW.CONDENAST.COMWWW.CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL.COM

Those submitting manu-scripts, photographs,

artwork, or other materialsto Bon Appétit for consid-eration should not send

originals unless speciicallyrequested to do so byBon Appétit in writing.

Unsolicited manuscripts,photographs, and other

submitted materials mustbe accompanied by aself-addressed return

envelope, postage prepaid.However, Bon Appétitis not responsible for

unsolicited submissions.Subscription inquiries:

Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614,

Boone, IA 50037; call8007659419 (515243-3273 from outside theU.S.A.); send e-mail to

[email protected]; or visit our website,

bonappetit.com.

Artistic DirectorANNA WINTOUR

,

—

! . , **

.



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10 • MARCH 2016

P H O T O G

R A P H B

Y R Y A N M

C C U N E P A T R I C K M C M U L L A N C

O M P A N Y

editor’s letter

ADAM RAPOPORT

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Five years ago, when we relaunched Bon Appétit, we wantedto put together a food magazine that was about more than justwhat’s for dinner.

Why? Because something was starting to happen. Food wasbecoming a thing. It wasn’t just for certified foodies anymore—everybody was getting into it.

So we built a staff of editors with a range of backgrounds.Executive editor Christine Muhlke, who’s absurdly knowledge-

able about both foodand

fashion, came fromT:

The New York

Times Style Magazine. Our visually gifted creative director,Alex Grossman, arrived from a high-gloss branding agency. Andwhile Andrew Knowlton remains our longest-tenured staffer, heis someone who’s just as likely to go on about his annual list ofour best new restaurants as he is his latest Grateful Dead down-load (current favorite: Live at Fillmore East—2/13/70).

The reality is, we as a nation of eaters have evolved. We’vetransitioned away from a world of food TV and celebrity chefs—where you had to be a card-carrying foodie to talk about foodwith any authority—to one where everyone has a stake in the game. Food has gone wide—it has become, of all things, cool.

Which is how we have arrived here, at our first-ever CultureIssue. On the following pages, we tap into the intersection offood and music and entertainment and politics and more. Wepoke just a bit of fun at how obsessed millennials are with eating

(can you imagine saving up your hard-earned drinking moneywhen you were 23 to go to a Scandinavian pop-up dinner?). Andwe break down the finer points of Instagramming (natural lightonly! directly overhead preferred! ). Because if you don’t snapand share a photo of your meal, it never happened, right?

And while this new generation still loves Martha and Ina,we now have a roster of food fans out there to call our own—musicians like Beyoncé (with her Yale-lettered sweatshirt)and Questlove, whose book Something to Food About: ExploringCreativity with Innovative Chefs hits stores next month. Evenour president has gotten in on the fervor, joining the throngslined up outside Rose’s Luxury for D.C.’s finest meal (okay, maybehe’s the one person who was allowed to cut the legendary line).

The fact is, food culture isn’t niche anymore. And as it haschanged, Bon Appétit has changed with it. Nowadays, everyoneis invited to the table, and we love that. It makes for a far moreinteresting dinner table conversation and, I like to think, a farmore dynamic magazine.

WA I T, W H E N D I D

F O O D G E T S O C O O L ?

Adam gettingschooled

by musician-turned-food-

writer Questloveat a BA party

FOLLOW ADAM

ON TWITTER,

INSTAGRAM, AND

SNAPCHAT AT

RAPO4



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12 • MARCH 2016

r .s. v .p.

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?E-mail us at [email protected]*

Not everything is

black and white—like

the photos of these

dishes in full-color

glory at bonappetit

.com/rsvp

*SUBMISSIONS BECOME THE PROPERTY OF BON APPÉTIT .

— , Walpole, MA

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I’VE GONE THROUGH AN

ENTIRE CONTAINER OF

GOCHUJANG TRYING TO

RECREATE THE ADDICTIVE

BRAISED CHICKEN FROMOIJI IN NYC, AND I CAN’T GETCLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL’S

UMAMIPACKED SPICE.

YOU’RE MY LAST HOPE.

GOCHUJANGBRAISEDCHICKEN AND CRISPY RICE Now that you have an entire

container of gochujang, it’s time tolearn more ways to use it on page 107.

1 small onion, inely chopped

8 garlic cloves, inely grated

1 2" piece ginger, peeled,

inely grated

¼ cup gochujang (Korean hot

pepper paste)

¼ cup soy sauce

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. mirin

1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper,

plus more

3 cups cooked short-grain rice

1 tsp. ground cumin

½ tsp. garlic powder

½ tsp. mustard powder

8 chicken drumsticks, patted dry

Kosher salt

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

6 scallions, white and pale-green

parts only, cut into 1" pieces

Mix onion, garlic, ginger, gochujang,

soy sauce, sugar, mirin, sesame oil,

and 1 tsp. pepper in a medium bowl

to combine; set sauce aside.

Toss rice, cumin, garlic powder, and

mustard powder in a medium bowl to

combine; spread out on a parchment-

lined rimmed baking sheet and chill

until cold, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, season chicken generously

with salt. Heat butter and vegetable

oil in a medium heavy pot over medium.

As soon as foaming subsides, add

chicken and cook, turning occasionally,

until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Add reserved sauce and bring to asimmer; cook until sauce appears to thin

out, about 3 minutes. Add broth and

bring to a boil. Reduce heat, partially cover

pot, and simmer, turning occasionally,

until chicken is very tender, 4555 minutes.

Divide rice into 4 portions; form into

¾"-thick disks (moisten hands with water

to prevent sticking). Heat a large nonstick

skillet over medium. Working in 2 batches,

cook rice cakes, turning halfway through,

until crisp, puffed, and golden, about

10 minutes. Transfer to plates.

Add scallions to chicken and cook

until tender, about 3 minutes. Season

with salt and pepper. Top each cake

with 2 chicken legs and a few scallions;

spoon plenty of sauce over.

Ask the TestKitchen

Q: “I loved seeing your ofice

kitchens in the pages of the

magazine [April 2015], but you

never told us who does thedishes!” SARAH OVERINGTON,

Whitehorse, the Yukon

Meet: AMELIA RAMPE, test kitchen assistant Cooking for: Ten years

Before BA: Cooked at ABC Kitchen and Nougatine at Jean-Georges

A: “I do a lot of dishes as test kitchen assistant. I also cross-test recipes

and make sure everything is in its place. A food editor needs a speciic

ingredient or tool? I know where it is. It may not be the most glamorous

job, but it comes with a pretty good view from our ofices at 1 World TradeCenter. Plus, I can tell my teenage daughter to do the dishes at home.”

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MARCH 2016 • 13

ICED HORCHATA LATTE If you feel like

experimenting, try using cashews

or pecans in place of the almonds.

¼ cup brown rice

2 Tbsp. coffee beans

¼ cup raw almonds

½ cinnamon stick, crushed ¼ cup sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

: A spice mill

or coffee grinder

Using spice mill or coffee grinder,

coarsely grind rice and transfer to a 2-qt.

airtight container. Coarsely grind coffee

beans and place in same container

as rice. Add almonds, cinnamon stick,

and 4 cups water. Cover and let soak

in refrigerator overnight.

Bring sugar and ¼ cup water to a

boil in a small saucepan, swirling pan

occasionally to dissolve sugar, about

3 minutes. Transfer simple syrup to

a heatproof container; cover and chill

until cool, at least 30 minutes.

Transfer rice mixture to a blender

and blend until very smooth. Strain

through a ine-mesh sieve into a medium

bowl, pressing on solids to extract

as much liquid as possible. Sweeten latte

to taste with simple syrup and add salt.

Serve over ice.

: Latte can be made 3 days

ahead. Cover and chill.

— , L.A.

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, COFAX IN L.A. IS

MY GOTO COFFEE SHOP.

I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW

HOW THE GENIUSES THERE

MANAGED TO COMBINE

THREE OF MY FAVORITE

BEVERAGESCOLD BREW,

HORCHATA, AND A LATTE

INTO ONE MAGICAL ELIXIR.

I NEED THIS IN MY

LIFE ON A DAILY BASIS.

US

O

S

JOS

C

C

C

,

;C

CC

C

O

,

UG,

O

F O R

R E S

T A U R A N T D E T A I L S ,

S E E S O U R C E B O O K .

THE CHEF SAYS:

“Feel free to add more

coffee for a stronger drink,

or even steam it to make a hot

latte. The important part is

not to rush: Let the horchata

mixture sit in the fridge toreally meld all the lavors.”

NICOLE RUCKER,

chef, Cofax

Re:Desperation

We get lots of

requests in the

R.S.V.P. in-box, but

some e-mails take

“Please help!” to

the next level. Here,

ten needy subject

lines that demanded

our attention.

“Scone crisis!”

“Pregnant and

a pancake

predicament”

“I mean…”

“A truly

impossible

challenge”

“The arepa

that changed

my life…”

“Blue crab OMG

beignets”

“Chocolate chip

cookies worth

befriending your

enemies for”

“Maybe I am

being greedy?”

“I left my heart in

Jackson Hole”

“Yes, it’s the

coffee cake

stalker AGAIN”



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MARCH 2016 • 17

We’reFloored

…by all thebeautiful tile

we’re spotting atrestaurants. Readour tips for takingthe trend home

by

SARI LEHRER

photographs by

TED CAVANAUGH

Are yougetting the urge

to renovate? Findbuying info for thetiles on this pagein Sourcebook,

page 112.



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Subway2.0

PatternedTile

The Look

Hand-glazedHeath tilesstretch to theceiling for adramatic lookat Farmshop

in Larkspur, CA.

Hawaiian-inluenced restaurant Liholiho YachtClub in San Francisco issues a warm welcome.

At Gracias Madre inL.A., tiles sourced fromOaxaca line the bar.

Marrakech.Mexico City. Havana.Patterned tile is thedesign equivalent oflanding somewhereexotic. From sharp,modern graphics totraditional Moroccan,patterns grab theeye, creating a focal

point for a room.

P R O T I P

Use judiciously!Though bravado

need not be limitedto commercialuse, at home you’rebest off laying thistile on a patio or ina small space likean entryway fora jewel-box effect.Have fun with thepattern, but you’dbe wise to think ofit like a tattoo: Youshould still wantto look at it a yearfrom now. Aimfor timeless andunplaceable,

says Dolores Suarezof New York’sDekar Design.

PennyTile

The LBD of tile: simple, classic,and never goes

out of style. Thequintessentiallook for brasseries,bistros, and oysterbars, these itty-bitty rounds arebeing used onloors in basicpatterns or to spellout a restaurant’s

name (as at Kindredin Davidson, NC).

S P O T T E D A T

Juniper, Austin;Ironside Fish &Oyster, San Diego

B U Y I T

Clé carries bothMoroccan andmodern. cletile.com

And they lookfabulousbeneath a bar.

B E S T F O R

The affordabletile is great forkitchen loors athome, says Wendy

Haworth, thedesigner behindL.A.’s GraciasMadre. Just makesure to choosea darker grout—penny tile’snumerous edgescan stain easily.

S P O T T E D A T

Le Sel, Nashville;Denver UnionStation, Denver

B U Y I T

Ann Sacks’ SavoyMosaic line offers

multiple colors.annsacks.com

With all duerespect to Balthazar’sKeith McNally, there’smore than one wayto lay a subway tile.Bold colors, tweakeddimensions, and fresh

layouts are redeiningthis favorite. At SanFrancisco’s LiholihoYacht Club, it’s donebig and bright withcanary-yellow 4x4s;

Chicago’s Swift &Sons lays sage-green tiles vertically;and at Farmshopin Larkspur, CA,there are entire wallsof textured tiles ina range of greens.

G O F O R A S P I N

Take a cue fromMåurice in Portland,OR, and The Millin SF and put atwist on the classicdesign—literally:A herringbone-likepattern doesn’t look

like something you’veseen a million times.

B U Y I T

Fireclay has vividcolors andmultiple shapes.ireclaytile.com

1

2 3

P H O T O G

R A P H S : E R I C W O L F I N G E R G R A C I A S M A D R E ; M O S E S A I P A L I H O L I H O ; M A R I K O

R E E D , C O U R T E S Y C O M M U N E D E S

I G N F A R M S H O P

For advicefrom the experts

at Heath Ceramics(hint: The groutmatters too), goto bonappetit.com/tile.

18 • MARCH 2016



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20 • MARCH 2016 P H O T O G R A P H B Y A L E X L A U

1

PomeloThink grapefruit

with less

bitterness and

more rind. “We

rip it apart cell by

cell,” says Beverly

Kim of Chicago’s

Parachute. “It

gives nice texture

to ish dishes.”(You can just eat

it in segments.)

6

Meyer LemonOri Menashe

of Bestia in

L.A. preserves

Meyer lemons—

thin-skinned

varieties with

some of oranges’

sweetness—

then chops

them up andadds them to

salsa verde.

5

KumquatsThe team at

Revival Market

makes marmalade

using the

grape-size

kumquats grown

by its Houston

neighbors.

Chef Ryan Pera

then uses itto ill kolache,

a Czech pastry.

4

Sour Orange“It has the

fruitiness of an

orange but the

acidity of a lime,”

says Jose Salazar

of the pucker-

inducing citrus.

At Cincinnati’s

Salazar, he

squeezes it overscallops; at home it

goes in margaritas.

2

Blood OrangeMolly Mitchell

of Rose’s Fine

Food in Detroit

candies the

ruby-hued fruit

(with hints of

berry lavor),

great for chopping

up and serving

atop breakfast,like on Rose’s

French toast.

7

YuzuThe bumpy citrus

doesn’t yield

much juice, but

pros love the

fragrant zest.

At Bar Goto in

NYC, Kenta Goto

uses yuzu bitters

(made by infusing

shochu with zest)to give drinks

a beautiful aroma.

3

SatsumaAlon Shaya

of New Orleans’

Shaya adds

the super-sweet

juice to butternut

squash that’s

been sautéed

with black-garlic

butter. “It cuts

through therichness of the

butter,” he says.

Chef’s Pick

1

6

3

2

5

7

4

Peel & Eat

Want some moreinteresting citrus in your

life? Check specialtygrocers, or visit Rising CRanches at ripetoyou.com

for mail-order options.

F O O D S

T Y L I N G B

Y A L I N A R D I

Bright SpotsToday’s chefs are

doing way more thanadding a squeeze oflemon to food. Takea peek at the modern

chef’s acid arsenalby MERYL ROTHSTEIN

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22 • MARCH 2016

P H O T O G

R A P H S : A L E X L A U S E A W E E D ,

Ä G G C Ø D D L E R ,

K I D L I C K S

; T E D C A V A N A U G H B R E N N I V Í N

, C O D D L E D E G G S ;

P A T R I C K

C H I N Z A K T H E B A K E R . F O R M O R E D E T A I L S ,

S E E S O U R C

E B O O K .

T

HE

C

H

E

C

K

L

IS

T

What to eat,drink, and

coddle thismonth

by

JULIA

KRAMER

At la nt ic wa ka me

Calcium-loaded dark-green leaves Try it:in a cucumber salad

At la nt ic ko mb u

The deepest-growingedible seaweed Try

it: in chicken stock

At la nt ic ke lp

Quick-cooking frondsTry it: added to

bean cooking liquid

A breakfastas cute as itis deliciousSeaweed Season Is Upon Us

Yes, there is such a thing—and for Ironbound IslandSeaweed, which harvests by hand on the Schoodic

Peninsula of Maine, it begins in spring. There’s no bettertime to familiarize yourself with nature’s vitamin-and-

mineral all-star. From $25 per lb.; ironboundisland.com

C o d d l e d E g g

Place 2 tsp. heavycream and a big

pinch each of inely

chopped cooked

ham and chives ina buttered coddler;

season with salt and pepper. Add

1 large egg. Top with2 tsp. heavy cream and more ham and

chives; season.Seal; cook 8 minutesin simmering water.Serve with buttered

toast. 1 serving

… 5 p.m. Wrap up your visit to the stunning Pérez Art Museum with a spritz (and a view) at Verde. 7 p.m.

Dinner at Alter, for a spin on the local catch in an art gallery–like space. 10 p.m. Did someone say cocktails in

gold pineapple glasses? That’s why you’re ending with a drink—and if you’re lucky, a bed—at Ian Schrager’sMiami Beach Edition. The morning after: Brave the toast line at Zak the Baker (FYI—closed Saturdays).

Zakthe Baker

: ,

“I don’t knowany Korean that

knows more aboutKorean food than Jonathan Gold.”

—David Chang,

in the documentary

about the Pulitzer

Prize–winning

restaurant critic

-

Child-friendly KidLicks nail polish

($14; kidlicks.com)

is marketed asorganic, edible,and “made fromfood,” so...we ateit. Tasting notes:

Sour Carrot

Tart with faintwhiffs of compost

Beet Red

Pleasantly sweet(and beautifullyplum-colored)

BarleyGrass Green

Grainy mouthfeel,with the aromaof a fermenting

juice bar

,

Better knownfor vodka and,

um, mineral water,Iceland has an

unoicial nationalspirit that’s gainingdistribution here:

Brennivín. Despite itsforeboding nickname,

“Black Death,”the caraway-infusedbeverage of Björk’s

homeland tastes likea gentler aquavit.

Try it in a BloodyMary. brennivin.comfor stores

Just when wethought there wereno new ways to

cook an egg, alongcame these adorable

porcelain vesselsthat yield soft-boiled

meals in a cup.BA’s food director,Carla Lalli Music,

loves the SwedishÄggcøddlers

($21; aggcoddler.com)so much she insistedwe share her recipe:



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24 • MARCH 2016 P H O T O G R A P H B Y T E D C A V A N A U G H

Lo ve Le tte r

P R O P S T

Y L I N G B

Y M A R T I N B

O U R N E . F O R

R E S T A U R A N T D E T A I L S , S E E S O U R C E B O O K .

Wantyour own?

Get thee to eBay(search for Wagneror Griswold skillet).

Or head to a leamarket.

Iron ManFor Caminochef Russell

Moore, a friend’slea-market ind

turned into alifelong love affair

with vintagecast-iron pans

O N E D A Y A T C H E Z P A N I SSE ,

my friend Tony Brush pushed

eight cast-iron Griswold and

Wagner skillets toward me and

said, “Here are some pans for

you.” We both rode bikes and

liked punk rock, and he was

the line cook we all looked up

to. Suzanne Goin and Michael

Tusk worked there at the time,

but Tony was the guy .

He loved an excuse to buy

old cast iron at lea markets.

They were disasters when he

brought them in, but Tony

would bury them in the coals

in the wood oven for a whole

day and then season them with

lard. He would gift a smooth,

shiny stack to anyone getting

married or having a kid. I got

mine because we were friends

and I probably didn’t have a lot

of money at the time. I was 22.

I’m 52 now, and I still use

them at Camino, my Oaklandrestaurant. They were all I

cooked with when we opened

in 2008. My irst cooks were

bad at cast-iron maintenance,

so I gave a lecture: “My friend

Tony gave me these. You’ve

got to treat them right. How

can you live with yourself?”

Cast-iron pans retain heat

well and evenly, and once

they’re seasoned, they have

a fairly nonstick surface. I’ve

always been anti-Telon. Wagner

and Griswold pans are lighter

than Lodge’s, so they’re easier

to handle, but the companies

are no longer around.

I split one of the pans

cracking shell-on macadamia

nuts, but I still have the rest.

Half are at the restaurant,

where I use them for frittatas

or pakora-style vegetables,

and half are at home, where I

fry eggs and rice in them. We’ll

never need to buy new pans.

I mean, I don’t plan on trying

to crack a macadamia nut again.

AS TOLD TO JULIA BAINBRIDGE

To really cook like Moore,try out the cast-

iron recipesin his cookbookThis Is Camino.



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26 • MARCH 2016

B O T T L E S E R V I C E

What should you be drinking?

A few suggestions:

Hoch stadte r’sVatted

Straight Rye

Whiskey,$35

The irst ryeto use a “vatted”

designation(meaning a

blend), this mixof ive straightrye whiskeyssourced from

distilleriesacross North

America is agedand bottled inPhiladelphia,

where thedistillery was

founded in 1884.

New York Dis tillin g

Company’s

Ragti me Rye ,$48

This new-school pick

uses a blend of72 percent rye,

a non-GMOvariety grownin the FingerLakes region.

Old Overholt,$17

There’s no need

to go boutique.Old Overholt

and Rittenhouseare industry

favoritesfor delivering

the classicrye proile atan affordable

price.

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y T E D C A V A N A U G H

D E C O D E T H E L A B E L

A S K A B A R T E N D E R

F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y A L I N A R D I . P R O P S T Y L I N G B Y M A R T I N B O U R N E . I L L U S T R A T I O N S B Y C L A I R E M C C R A C K E N . F O R M O R E D E T A I L S , S E E S O U R C E B O O K .

* R A W E G

G I S N O T R E C O M M E N D E D F O R T H E E L D E R L Y , P R E G N A N T

W O M E N , C H I L D R E N U N D E R 4 , A N D P E O P L E W I T H W E A K E N E D I M M U N E S Y S T E M S .

S O Y O U W A N T T O C A L L Y O U R S E L F A N A M E R I C A N R Y E . . .

“A lot of bartenders today are

using more amaro and other

strong, lavorful ingredients in

cocktails, and rye holds up

well to them. It really comes

through and makes itself known.”—Peter Novotny, Armoury D.E., Dallas

Age state ment

Rye must beaged in newoak barrels,

but there areno rules abouthow long. If thebottle doesn’t

tell you how oldit is, that meansit’s been aged atleast four years.

Unlike bourbon, rye whiskey can be made outside of the United States. To be considered an American rye, the mash bill (blend of grains) must containno less than 51 percent rye , making it more peppery and not as sweet as bourbon,

which must be made from 51 percent corn.

U S E I T I N A

C O C K T A I L

The Rattlesnake

Vigorously shake 1 large

egg white,* 2 oz. rye

whiskey, 1 oz. lemon

juice, and ¾ oz. simple

syrup in a cocktail

shaker until just frothy.Fill shaker with ice; shake

until outside is frosty,

about 20 seconds. Strain

through a ine-mesh

sieve into a frozen coupe

glass rinsed with Pernod.

OG Distiller

Sam Adams mayget the attention

as America’s

patriot brewer,but GeorgeWashington

distilled rye atMount Vernon.When he died

in 1799, he wasproducing 11,000

gallons a year,making him

America’s largestwhiskey distiller.

So-called“straight”

rye has been

aged at leasttwo years,

with no addedlavor, color,or additional

spirit.

The 360°

It’s Rye TimeEverything you need

to know about bourbon’scooler cousin

by BRAD THOMAS PARSONS

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A FEW

C E N T U R I E S M A K E . Once

considered a weed, rye is now the

main grain in one of America’s most

sought-after spirits: rye whiskey.

Its bold proile has bartenders inally

moving beyond bourbon. “Just

like in bread, rye adds a distinct

spiciness to whiskey,” says

Julian Goglia of The Mercury in

Atlanta. That depth makes it a great

match for modern cocktails

(or, of course, for drinking neat).

Proof

Double thealcohol by

volume andyou’ll get the

proof—thestrength ofthe alcoholat bottling.

American ryemust be at least

80 proof andat most 160.

Small-batch,

handm ade,craft

Often just

marketing,these words

aren’t regulated,rendering themmeaningless.

They’re the “all-natural” of thebooze world.

26 • MARCH 2016



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MARCH 2016 • 31R EC IPES B Y RITA SODI AND JODY WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHS BY E V A K O L E N K O

> RECIPES, TIPS, AN D MENU IDEAS FROM OUR EXPERTS

BA

Believe it:

Easter is

in March

this year!

No one takes Easter more seriously than the Italians.

Just ask Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the chefs behind Via

Carota, the completely charming trattoria in New York’s

West Village. The Easter menu that the duo created—

artichokes, braised lamb, chocolate semifreddo—mirrorsthe restaurant’s rustic, timeless, fuss-free approach.

To start the meal, Williams and Sodi set out a platter of

gorgeous raw vegetables. The un-recipe: Find the prettiest

produce that March can pony up (such as slender carrots

and haricots verts, small heads of lettuce, breakfast

radishes, and asparagus). Wash and trim (halving

whatever needs to be halved), then arrange on a platter.Squeeze lemon juice over everything, sprinkle with laky

sea salt, and serve with your best olive oil for dipping.

THE PARTY

easter,

italianstyle

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32 • MARCH 2016

Place tomatoes in a large Dutch oven

or other heavy pot, crushing with your

hands; add wine, red pepper lakes, 2 tsp.

salt, ½ cup oil, and 2 cups water; set aside.

Pulse anchovies and garlic in a food

processor until inely chopped. Add mint

and pulse until coarsely chopped. With

the motor running, stream in remaining

½ cup oil; process until a coarse paste

forms. Set pesto aside.

Remove several layers of dark-green

outer leaves from artichokes (keep going

until you get to the tender light-green

leaves). Using a serrated knife, cut off top

1" of artichokes and trim stem ends. Rub

cut ends with lemon halves to prevent

browning. Working with 1 artichoke at

a time, use a paring knife or vegetable

peeler to remove tough outer green layer

Braised Artichokes with

Tomatoes and Mint

Pick artichokes with tightly

packed, squeaky-irm green leaves

and a fresh-looking cut on the stem end.

1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes,

preferably Italian San Marzano,

drained

1 ½ cups dry white wine

½ tsp. crushed red pepper lakes

2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more

1 cup olive oil, divided

12 salt-packed anchovy illets,

rinsed, patted dry

8 garlic cloves

1 cup (lightly packed) mint leaves

6 medium artichokes

2 lemons, halved

from base and stem to reveal pale-green

underneath; rub all over with lemon.

Halve through stem and rub cut sides with

more lemon. Use a spoon to scoop out

choke, then pull out spiky inner leaves;

rub insides with lemon. Rub reserved

pesto all over artichoke halves and place

artichokes in a single layer inside reserved

pot, submerging in tomato mixture.

Bring to a simmer over medium-low

and cook, turning artichokes

occasionally, until hearts are fork-tender,

5565 minutes. Transfer artichokes to

a platter and tent with foil to keep warm.

Increase heat to medium, bring

sauce to a boil, and cook until slightly

thickened, 1015 minutes. Taste and

season with more salt if needed. Spoon

over artichokes.

THEPARTYTHEPARTY

> e a s t e rs u nd a y

T H E P L A N

I N O R D E R T O P U L L O F F T HI SAMBIT IOUS MENU,

Y O U HA VE T O S T R A T E G I Z E

UP TO THREE

DAYS AHEADMake the chocolatesemifreddoand freeze. Cookthe cannellinibeans; let coolin liquid, thencover and chill.

1 DAY AHEAD

Stuff and tiethe lamb breast.Braise artichokes;let cool and chill.Prepare all theraw vegetables;store inresealable plasticbags and chill.

THE MORNING OF

Braise the lambbreast and makethe potatoes.

JUST BEFORE

GUESTS ARRIVE

Whip thecream for thesemifreddo,sauté spinachwith beans,muddle thecocktail base,and put out theraw vegetableplatter. Reheatlamb, potatoes,and artichokes.—Claire Safitz

These artichokes

take a little

effort. Learnhow to trim

them in PrepSchool, page 111.



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THEPARTY

> e a s t e r

s un d a y

Cacio e Pepe Potatoes

The classic Pecorino

and black pepper combination

is delicious on way more than pasta.

Try it on veg and rice, too.

3 lb. new potatoes or baby

Yukon Gold potatoes

Kosher salt

⅓ cup olive oil 4 oz. Pecorino, inely grated,

divided

2 Tbsp. coarsely ground black

pepper, divided

Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling

salted water until tender, 1520 minutes.

Drain potatoes and transfer back to

pot. Add oil, 1 cup Pecorino, and 1 Tbsp.

pepper and toss until cheese is melted

and potatoes are coated; season with salt.

Transfer potatoes to a platter; top with

remaining Pecorino and 1 Tbsp. pepper.

Cannellini Beans with Spinach

If there is a lot of liquid

in the pan when the spinach is done,

drain it before adding the beans.

1 ½ cups dried cannellini (white kidney)

beans, soaked overnight, drained

1 head of garlic, halved crosswise;

plus 2 garlic cloves, crushed

3 sage leaves 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more

for serving

Kosher salt

½ tsp. crushed red pepper lakes

2 bunches mature spinach, trimmed

1 Tbsp. inely grated lemon zest

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Bring beans, head of garlic, sage, 3 Tbsp.

oil, and 6 cups water to a boil in a large

saucepan over medium heat. Reduce

heat, add several generous pinches of

salt and simmer gently until beans are

creamy all the way through but skins are

still intact, 3545 minutes. Let cool.

Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over

medium. Cook crushed garlic and red

pepper lakes, stirring, just until garlic

is golden, about 1 minute. Working

in batches, add spinach, letting it wilt

slightly before adding more, and cook,

tossing often, until leaves are just wilted,

about 5 minutes; season with salt.Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans

to skillet with spinach and cook, tossing

gently, until beans are warmed through.

Add lemon zest, lemon juice, and ¼ cup

bean cooking liquid and toss, adding

more cooking liquid if needed, until

coated (mixture should be saucy but

not submerged in liquid; don’t cook too

long or beans will get mushy). Taste and

season with salt. Serve drizzled with oil.

: Beans can be cooked

3 days ahead. Keep in cooking liquid;

cover and chill.

Humblebeans andpotatoes

become starside dishes.

A DD S O M ES P A R K L E

These winesare affordableenough to usein this drink—and deliciouson their own:

1 Giol Prosecco Sur Lie, $15This Prosecco has just enoughcomplexity for a simple sparkle r.

2 Bisson Glera Vino Frizzante , $20Super dry and citrusy.

3 Primaterra Prosecco Frizzante, $12At this price, spritzes for everyone!

T H E DR I N KS P A R KL I N G L E M O N C O C KT A I L

> Muddle 2 thinly sliced Meyer or regularlemons , 8 sugar cubes , and 1 ½ tsp.Angostura bitters in a large measuringglass until lemons are softened and sugaris crushed. Divide among 8 wine glasses;slowly pour in chilled dry Proseccoor other sparkling wine to ill glasses.

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MARCH 2016 • 35

4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

1 cup dry white wine 1 lemon, quartered

4 sprigs parsley, plus ¼ cup leaves

with tender stems

2 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

1 tsp. black peppercorns

: A spice mill or

a mortar and pestle

Finely grind

oregano, fennel, and red pepper lakes

in spice mill or with mortar and pestle.

Place lamb breasts on a work surface, fat

side down, and season with salt. Sprinkle

spice mixture over top, then rub garlic

into meat, working over entire surface.

Mix egg yolk, Pecorino, ricotta, olives,

parsley, and lemon juice in a small bowl

to combine and spread evenly over both

lamb breasts. Working with 1 breast at

a time and starting from a short end, roll

up so lamb is resting seam side down.

Starting at the center, tie each roll with

kitchen twine at even intervals.

: Lamb can be stuffed 1 day

ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room

temperature before cooking.

Stuffed Lamb Breast with

Lemon, Ricotta, and Oregano Straining the ricotta

will tighten the illing, making it easier

to roll. Let it hang out in a sieve while

you’re measuring everything else out.

2 tsp. dried oregano

2 tsp. fennel seeds

1 tsp. crushed red pepper lakes

2 boneless lamb breasts

(11 ½ lb. each), fat trimmed

Kosher salt

4 garlic cloves, inely grated

1 large egg yolk

6 oz. Pecorino or Parmesan,

inely grated

6 oz. ricotta, drained

½ cup pitted oil-cured olives,

coarsely chopped

⅓ cup coarsely chopped parsley


3 Tbsp. olive oil

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, peeled, chopped

2 shallots, chopped

Preheat oven to 300°. Heat

oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavypot over medium-high. Season lamb

all over with salt and pepper and cook,

turning occasionally, until browned on all

sides, 1215 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Add onion, carrot, shallots, and garlic

to same pot; season with salt and

pepper. Cook, stirring often, until

vegetables are browned around edges,

810 minutes. Add wine, scraping

up browned bits. Bring to a boil and

cook until liquid is almost completely

evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add

lemon, parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs, bay

leaves, peppercorns, and 4 cups cold

water. Add lamb back to pot and bring

to a simmer; cover and transfer to

oven. Cook, turning once, until lamb

is tender but not quite falling apart,

22 ½ hours. Transfer lamb to a plate

and tent with foil to keep warm.

Bring braising liquid to a boil over

medium-high heat and cook until

reduced by half, 1520 minutes. Taste

and season with more salt, if desired.

Remove kitchen twine from lamb and

slice ¾" thick. Transfer to a platter and

strain braising liquid through a ine-mesh

sieve over lamb. Top with parsley leaves.

B U Y ER ’ SG U I D E:

L A M B B R E A S T

> Lamb breast isa cut from betweenthe shoulder andbelly that has agood amount oftasty intramuscularfat, making it aperfect candidate

for braising. Itis not, however,something youcan expect to indshrink-wrapped atthe grocery store.Order it in advancefrom your butcher,

and specify thatyou’d like the r ibbo nes removed.If you can’t indlamb breast, usea single butterliedboneless lambshoulder instead.

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36 • MARCH 2016

THEPARTY

> easter

s u n d a y

Dark Chocolate Semifreddo

The texture of this airy

semifreddo is somewhere between

frozen chocolate mousse and gelato.

In other words: You’re going to love it.

6 oz. bittersweet or semisweet

chocolate, chopped

2 tsp. vanilla extract

¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more

2 ½ cups heavy cream, divided

3 large egg whites, room

temperature

⅔ cup sugar

: A candy

thermometer

Combine chocolate, vanilla, and ¼ tsp.

salt in a medium heatproof bowl.

Heat 1 ½ cups cream in a small

saucepan over medium until barely

simmering. Pour hot cream over

chocolate mixture and let sit until

chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes.

Whisk chocolate mixture until

combined and smooth. Chill, stirring

occasionally, until cold, about 1 hour.

GE T T H EV I B E :

MODERNE A S T E R

> Gold—in moderation—adds elegance. We lovethis brushed-gold cutlery($138 for ive-piece set;michelevarian.com)and Tom Dixon teapot($200; tomdixon.net).

Beat egg whites and a pinch of salt

on high speed in the bowl of a stand

mixer itted with whisk attachment until

soft peaks form.

Meanwhile, cook sugar and ⅓ cup

water in a small saucepan over

medium-low heat, stirring, until sugar is

dissolved. Clip thermometer to the side

of saucepan; increase heat to medium.

Bring to a boil without stirring and

cook until thermometer registers 250°.

Working quickly and with motor

running, pour syrup into egg whites in a

steady stream, avoiding whisk so syrup

doesn’t splatter. Beat until glossy, stiff

peaks form (be careful not to overbeat).

Using an electric mixer, beat chilled

chocolate mixture until soft peaks

form. Gently fold in meringue, leaving

a few streaks. Scrape into a large

loaf pan and cover. Freeze until solid,

at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.

Just before serving, let semifreddo

sit at room temperature 15 minutes.

Beat remaining 1 cup cream in a small

bowl until soft peaks form. Serve

scoops of semifreddo in small bowls

with whipped cream.

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MARCH 2016 • 39P H O T O G R A P H S B Y A L E X L A U

TWICEROASTED

SWEET

POTATOESWITH HOT

HONEY

k

fast, easy, fresh

When there’s not a glimmerof spring produce, make

the best of what you’ve got—

by which we mean a crunchy

slaw, citrusy cake, and more

by Claire SafitzTwice IsNicer

The trick tocrispy, creamy,never cloying sweetpotatoes? Roast,tear, and roastagain. To serve

4, poke holes all

over 3 mediumsweet potatoes;

wrap each in foil.

Roast on a foil-lined

rimmed baking

sheet in a 350°

oven until tender,

6070 minutes.

Unwrap and let cool

slightly. Increase

oven temperature

to 450°. Combine

1 thinly sliced

Fresno chile, ¼ cup

honey, and 4 Tbsp.

unsalted butter in a small saucepan;

season with salt.

Bring to a simmer

over low heat,

stirring to combine.

Remove from heat

and stir in 2 Tbsp.

apple cider vinegar.

Smash potatoes

with your palm, then

tear into irregular

bite-size pieces.

Toss in a large bowl

with half of hot

honey, leaving chilebehind; season with

salt. Arrange pieces,

skin side down, on

an unlined rimmed

baking sheet and

roast until browned

and crisp around

edges, 2025

minutes. Drizzle

with remaining hot

honey with chile.



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FAST, EASY,

F R E S H

Hit This SauceWhy make your own hoisin?Because the addictively sweet-saltycondiment will wake up just abouteverything you’re making this week

Hoisin-Glazed Pork Chops

-

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, inely chopped

⅓ cup soy sauce

3 Tbsp. honey

2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

2 Tbsp. tahini

2 tsp. Sriracha


2 1 ½"-thick bone-in pork rib chops

(about 1 lb. each), patted dry

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over

medium. Cook garlic, stirring often,

until golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Add soy sauce, honey, vinegar, tahini,

and Sriracha and whisk until smooth.

Cook, whisking occasionally, until

mixture is thick and smooth, about

5 minutes. Season hoisin sauce with

salt and pepper; let cool.Season pork chops all over with salt

and pepper. Place in a large resealable

plastic bag and add half of hoisin sauce

(reserve remaining sauce). Seal bag,

pressing out air, and turn to coat pork.

Chill at least 30 minutes. Set remaining

sauce aside.

Preheat a large skillet, preferably cast

iron, or grill pan over medium. Remove

pork from bag, shaking off excess

marinade. Cook pork chops until bottom

side is golden brown, about 1 minute.

Turn and cook on other side about

1 minute, then turn again. Continue

to cook, turning about every minute,

until chops are deep golden brown and

charred in spots and an instant-read

thermometer inserted into the thickest

part registers 135°, 1518 minutes

(cooking time will depend on thickness

of chops). Transfer to a cutting board

and let rest at least 10 minutes (porkwill come to 145° as it sits). Serve with

reserved hoisin sauce spooned over.

: Hoisin sauce can be made

4 days ahead; cover and chill. Thin with

water if needed before using. Pork can

be marinated 1 day ahead; keep chilled.

Spoon overpork chops.

Dress up abowl of rice.

Turn simplesteamed

veg into afun side.

MOR E WAYS TOU S E … HO I S I N

This homemadehoisin comestogether with justa few pantrystaples and tastessurprisingly like the

stuff you get at aChinese restaurant, only—dare wesay?—better.You’ll want to use itagain and again, sohere are some waysto do just that:

1 Toss into a porkand mushroom stir-fry and spread onlour tortillas foreasy moo-shu pork.

2 Serve alongsideroast chicken.

3 Drizzle oversteamed vegetableslike bok choy,asparagus, orwinter squash.

4 Stir into grainsor a rice bowl.

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MARCH 2016 • 41

Slaw PowerHope you like your salads bracingbecause we piled all the crunchyveg we could ind into this bright,fresh side dish

Crunchy Winter Slaw with Asian

Pear and Manchego -

⅓ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

1 tsp. plus ¼ cup olive oil



1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 tsp. pure maple syrup

4 cups very thinly sliced green

cabbage and/or fennel

1 ½ cups matchsticks Asian pear

(from about ½ large) 1 ½ cups matchsticks peeled celery

root (from about ¼ small) or celery

1 ½ cups matchsticks peeled daikon

(from about ½ medium)

3 oz. Manchego cheese,

shaved, divided

Preheat oven to 350°. Toss pumpkin

seeds and 1 tsp. oil on a rimmed baking

sheet; season with salt and pepper.

Bake until golden brown and puffed,

about 5 minutes; let cool. Finely chop

2 Tbsp. pumpkin seeds.

Whisk chopped pumpkin seeds,

lemon juice, mustard, maple syrup, and

remaining ¼ cup oil in a medium bowl;

season dressing with salt and pepper.

Combine cabbage and/or fennel, Asian

pear, celery root, daikon, most of the

Manchego, and remaining pumpkin seeds

in a large bowl. Drizzle dressing over top

and toss to combine; season with salt and

pepper. Top with remaining Manchego.

its peppery-but-not-to o-pepperylavor and snappy-but-not-to o-snappytexture—plus it’seasier to shaveinto salads thanits smaller cousins.

D ON’TU N D E R E S T I M A T E DAIKON

> Breakfast radishesget all theattention. Whatabout the heartydaikon? We love

No Asianpear? Subin a green

apple.

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42 • MARCH 2016

O I L > B U T T E R

Waiting aroundfor cold, hardbutter to softenis antithetical tospur-of-the-moment baking.The best solution

is a vegetableoil–based batterinstead. Not onlydo you always haveoil around, but itmakes baked goods(ahem, like this loafcake) super moist.

FAST, EASY,

F R E S H

Grapefruit–Poppy Seed Loaf Cake

with Yogurt Glaze

-

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

1 ½ cups all-purpose lour

2 tsp. baking powder ¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more

1 Tbsp. inely grated grapefruit zest

1 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs, room temperature

⅓ cup vegetable oil

1 tsp. vanilla extract

¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp. plain Greek yogurt

8 Tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice,

divided 1 Tbsp. poppy seeds, plus more

for sprinkling

½ cup powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350°. Line an 8½x4½" loaf

pan, preferably metal, with parchment

paper, leaving overhang on the long

sides, and lightly coat with nonstick

spray. Whisk lour, baking powder, and

¾ tsp. salt in a medium bowl.

Using your ingers, work grapefruit

zest into granulated sugar in a large bowl

until sugar starts to clump and mixtureis very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add

eggs, oil, and vanilla and beat with an

electric mixer on high speed until light

and thick, about 4 minutes. Reduce

speed to low and mix in half of dry

ingredients, then mix in ¾ cup yogurt.

Mix in remaining dry ingredients

followed by 5 Tbsp. grapefruit juice and

1 Tbsp. poppy seeds. Scrape batter intoprepared pan and smooth top.

Bake cake until top is golden brown

and a tester inserted into the center

comes out clean, 5060 minutes.

Transfer pan to a wire rack. Poke holes

in top of cake and brush remaining

3 Tbsp. grapefruit juice over top. Let sit

15 minutes, then run a knife around sides

to loosen and use parchment paper to

lift cake out of pan and onto rack. Remove

parchment and let cool completely.

Whisk powdered sugar, remaining

1 Tbsp. yogurt, 1 tsp. water, and a pinchof salt in a medium bowl until smooth

and drizzle over cake. Sprinkle with

poppy seeds and let sit until glaze is set,

about 30 minutes.

: Loaf can be baked and

glazed 3 days ahead. Store airtight at

room temperature.

Cake for Breakfast?

It has grapefruit and yogurt, soit’s practically a parfait! We won’tjudge if you eat this in the a.m.

F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y S U E L I . P R O P S T Y L I N G B Y E L I Z A B E T H J A I M E . I L L U S T R A T I O N S B Y J O E W I L S O N .

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44 • MARCH 2016 P H O T O G R A P H S B Y A L E X L A U

When Cold-Eeze can’t cut it,the p eople of P rovidence, RI ,

turn to an unproven—but

inarguably delicious—cure:

a memorable Cambodian soup

by Belle Cushing

THE NEWH E AL T H Y

big bowl ofgoodness

Everyone in Providence, Rhode Island, knows the

powers of medicine soup. The brothy noodles at Angkor

Restaurant are powered by the spices typical of Cambodian

cuisine—the kind that seem to actually give off warmth.

The lavor is an exercise in extremes: meaty and funky,

sweet and sour, iery to the point of sinus relief.

Three years ago, I moved from Providence to New York

City, where the winters are ostensibly milder but somehow

harder to bear. I might blame the snow that turns

immediately to sludge, but the real problem is that I can’t

just plod down the street to Angkor and pay $5 to get set

straight by a bowl of soup. I’ve been looking for something

equivalent among the restorative broths of the world, from

bone to miso to a colleague’s recipe for spicy kimchi stew.

Nothing comes close. I even called the restaurant, invoking

the powers of this magazine to try to coax the method

out of them, except that no, the recipe was secret, and they

couldn’t possibly give it out. Thanks for calling, though.

So I hopped a train to Providence. Only this time, I took

a recipe developer with me. When our soup arrived, we

didn’t so much eat as study it. We took detailed notes, and

then she returned to our test kitchen and tried to re-create

it, from the spice-fueled broth to the ramen noodles to the

cascade of c ilantro. Finally, we hit upon something that

no one could stop slurping. This recipe isn’t exactly Angkor’s

secret soup. But it’s the best medicine I can hope to ind.

This shrimp-

and-noodle

number is

the real soup

for the soul.



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Aromatic Shrimp

and Noodle Medicine Soup

A highly seasoned broth

and robust cashew purée add layered

lavor to this warming soup.

6 whole cloves 6 green cardamom pods

4 star anise pods

3 dried chiles de árbol

2 3" cinnamon sticks

2 tsp. black peppercorns

1 bunch cilantro

3 medium shallots, halved

through root ends

5 garlic cloves, smashed

2 6" pieces lemongrass, tough

outer layer removed,

lightly smashed

1 4" piece ginger, peeled,sliced ½" thick

12 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 Tbsp. ish sauce

Kosher salt; freshly ground pepper

½ cup cashews

1 medium shallot, chopped

1 Fresno chile, chopped

1 3" piece lemongrass, tough outer

layer removed, inely chopped

1 1" piece ginger, peeled,

inely chopped

1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar

1 Tbsp. shrimp paste with bean oil

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

4 12-oz. packages ramen noodles

1 lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined

8 oz. mung bean sprouts

4 scallions, thinly sliced

on a diagonal

Fresh tender herbs (such as

Thai basil, cilantro, and/or mint)

Freshly ground black pepper

Chili oil and lime wedges

(for serving)

kTHE NEW

HE A L T HY

> medicine

soup

You know that

guy at the party

who’s always

talking about

his homemade

chili oil? That

could be you.

Go to bonappetit

.com/chilioil .

“It may not be FDA-approved,but I’m convinced a few spoonfuls ofthis spicy broth can cure anything.”

— B e l l e C u s h i n g

Toast cloves, cardamom,

star anise, chiles, cinnamon, and

peppercorns in a large pot over

medium heat, tossing often, until

fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add

cilantro, shallots, garlic, lemongrass,

ginger, broth, and ish sauce and

bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmeruntil lavors meld, 11 ½ hours.

Strain into a large bowl, pressing on

solids. Return broth to pot; season

with salt and pepper.

Pulse cashews in a food

processor until very inely ground.

Add shallot, chile, lemongrass,

ginger, brown sugar, and shrimp

paste; process until smooth. Heat oil

in a small skillet over medium and

cook paste, stirring, until beginning

to brown, about 2 minutes.

Cook noodles according

to package directions. Drain; rinse

under cold water. Bring broth to a

simmer, add shrimp, and cook until

cooked through, about 2 minutes.

Divide noodles among bowls. Add 2

Tbsp. paste to each and ladle broth

over; stir to incorporate paste. Top

with shrimp, sprouts, scallions, and

herbs; season with pepper. Serve with

chili oil and lime wedges alongside.

46 • MARCH 2016

R E C I P E B Y L I L Y F R E E D M A N . F O O D

S T Y L I N G B

Y S U E L I . P R O P S T Y L

I N G B

Y E L I Z A B E T H J

A I M E . F O R R E S T A U R A N T D E T A I L S , S E

E S O U R C E B O O K .

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P H O T O G R A P H S B Y K A M I L B I A L O U S50 • MARCH 2016

nav igator > C I TY G U I D E vanc ouver

FO R THEAD D RESSES

O F TH ESPO TS IN THIS

STO RY, SEE SOURCEBOOK

O N P A G E 1 1 2 .

Alexan dr aGlass of

The Birds& the Beetsstarts theday right.

north by northwestSeattle’s cool. Portland’s got indie cred. But right

now, Vancouver tops our best-of-the-West list

Nothing represents the fantasies

of food-obsessed Americans quite like

the Paciic Northwest. It’s an unspoiled

wonderland where the ish is always fresh, the

produce pedigreed, and the people (somewhat

eerily) enthusiastic. But our fascination with

Portland and Seattle obscures a thrilling truth:

The grass is even greener (and fresher, and

tastier, and cheaper) on the other side of the

49th parallel. Vancouver is the real deal,

a temperate paradise with an exploding food

scene that takes advantage of pristine Paciic

seafood and interior British Columbia’s bounty,

diverse immigrant traditions, and of-the-

moment culinary trends alike. “By Sea, Land,

and Air We Prosper” reads the city’s motto.

And after a few days eating our way across the

city, we’re inclined to agree. —Amiel Stanek

Continued on page 54

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54 • MARCH 2016

NAVIGATOR

> vancouverDO

Rent a bike and take a spin around picturesque Stanley Park. It’ll be a bitof a workout—that is, if you can resist the urge to get off your bike everyfew feet to snap photos of the glimmering bay and soaring mountains.

&

House-

made kombucha

on tap. House-made

ilmjölk yogurt on

top of house-made

whole grain granola.

House-made local

fruit soda chaser to

go alongside a locally

roasted Bows &

Arrows espresso. This

sunny tropical-plant-

illed counter-service

café is the perfect

place to linger while

planning a day of

serious eating. (Did

we mention that they

sell fresh lowers,

too? How freaking

cute is that?)

A seat at the spotlit

bar is the move at

this swanky French-

inlected spot.

Snag one of their

next-level cocktails(the herbaceous

L I N G C O D

Crispy eight-spice lingcod

served in a caramelized

tamarind and palm-sugar

sauce at Maenam.

S A B L E F I S H

Delicate steamed sableish

illet with mushrooms

and BBQ duck dashi at

The Farmer’s Apprentice.

O Y S T E R S

Cold briny oysters on

the half shell from all over

British Columbia at

stalwart Blue Water Cafe.

D U N G E N E S S C R A B

Sweet, meaty, and

refreshingly unpretentious

steamed-to-order crab

at Rodney’s Oyster House.

SEAFOOD

S A N S GUILT

Restaurants allover the city proudlypost the VancouverAquarium’s Ocean

Wise logo on menusto denote sustainable

(and delicious)seafood options.

Here are a few ofour favorites.

3

Clockwise from above: The izzy house-bottled Spritz at Ask for Lui gi ; an employe e a t The B irds & the Beets tends to thecafé’s display of lowers for sale; meatballs at Ask for Luigi.

EasternPromisesDowntown Vancouver’s ineand good, but i t’s Gastown,the buzzy neighborhood

east of the city’s center, where you’ll witness

a restaurant renaissance in full swing.These are the must-visits.

1Avocado Gimlet is 100

times better than it

sounds), slurp a few

tender baked Paciic

oysters bathed in

truled garlic butter,

and puzzle over

how they keep theglassware straight on

the slanted shelves

behind the bar.

The city’s most talked

about new-school/

old-school Italian

joint deserves the

hype, with bottled

Aperol spritzes,

juicy meatballs, and

hauntingly satisfying

house-made pasta

(order any noodle

made with squid ink).Plus there’s that

golden-hour light.

What’s not to like?

Pro tip: Arrive at least

a half hour before

this no-reservations

restaurant opens

to snag a table.

There’s always a line.

This decade-old

tavern is the place to

be for specialty suds

in Vancouver. The

super-knowledgeable

staff is more than

happy to guide you

through the 50

local and imported

drafts, but any of

the inventive oddball

brews from the

hometown heroes at

Brassneck Breweryare a must-order.

T A ST E

T H E T E R R O I R

Want to know whatBC farm-to-tableis all about? Get theeto The Farmer’s

Apprentice. HighlyInstagrammabletasting menus(available in both“Herbivore” and“Omnivore” formats)showcase the bestthat the far PacNWhas to offer, fromstunning shellish

to earthy mushrooms,served to the tune ofearly Stones (on vinyl,duh). For a bit morecasual vibe, dropby the restaurant’snext-door naturalwine and cocktail bar,Grapes & Soda, forsmall plates likeseared albacore tuna.

2

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I L L U S T R

A T I O N S

B Y C L A I R E M C C R A C K E N

O’ TRAY NOODLE

Cross the street to

President Plaza

and go up one light

to the food court for

O’ Tray’s tian jin

jianbing. The savory

mung bean crepeis topped with egg,

scallions, soy paste,

and laky fried

pastry before being

folded into a tidy

packet—probably

the tastiest $4.75

you’ll ever spend.

LIDO RESTAURANT

If you order one

thing from this

bustling Hong Kong–

style café, make it a

pineapple bun—the

fruitless Cantonesetea cake with an

irresistible sandy

topping of sugar,

egg, lour, and lard.

Order it with butter

(just do it) and

they’ll split the warm

bun and stick a huge

salty slab in there.

EXCELLENT TOFU

AND SNACKS

Warm, soothing

homemade soy milk

is the only thing

you need after a

marathon of eating.(Okay, order a silky

tofu pudding, too.)

FISHERMAN’S

TERRACE

Enter the unassuming

Aberdeen Centre

shopping mall and

you’re two escalators

away from the dim

sum that dreamsare made of. The

standards are all

lawlessly executed,

but the Shredded

Chicken Cold

Plate—a tumble of

succulent meat, crisp

Chinese celery, fried

noodles, and tangy

vinaigrette—sealed

the deal for us.

DINESTY

DUMPLIN G HOUSE

If you have room

post–dim sum (or

even if you don’t),venture one level

down to Dinesty.

The decor may leave

something to be

desired, but eight

kinds of juicy soup

dumplings—XO sauce

and pork!—more

than make up for it.

RichmondRichesRichmond, a 20-minute drivefrom downtown, is home tothe most authentic Chinese

food this side of the Paciic. With immigrantsfrom Asia making up close to 60 percentof the population, it’s a paradise of dimsum halls and wild shopping malls hawkingeverything from pastry to Peking duck.Check out these spots.

4

Y E S , Y O U ’ L L H A V E F I S H A N D C H I P S

It is British Columbia after all. While places like

Go Fish are superb for their on-the-water

vibes, our pick is the landlocked Fish Counter.

Opened by one of the founders of the Ocean

Wise program, all the ish is responsibly

sourced, impeccably fresh, and delicately fried.

I S L A N D L I F E

If GranvilleIsland—the

shopping districta short walk from

downtownVancouver—seemslike a tourist trap,you’re not doing

it right. Its RailspurDistrict is where

you’re going to indlocally brewed

sake from ArtisanSakeMaker,

lights of distilled-on-site spirits atLiberty Distillery,

and a host ofboutiques hawkinghandicrafts. And

don’t leavewithout slurping

Bon Appetit march 2016

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