Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes - Lonely...
31
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. Behind the Scenes Behind the Scenes OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes: Bryan Banek, Celine Baures, Jonas Juhlin, Heather Monell, Stephanie Simard, Murray Tate, Carah Whaley AUTHOR THANKS Amy C Balfour A very warm thank you to coauthor Adam Kar- lin and his welcoming family – I had a blast! Big thanks also to Christian and Karen Blessey for showing me the town and introducing me to great people and restaurants. And how do you say August? Thanks also to Rozanne Whalen, Kathlyn Perez, Catherine Moloney, Courtney and Spencer Murphy, Stacy and Jeremy Head, Terance Fowler, Deborah Gerhardt, Charlotte Reid, Jim Dawson and local experts Melissa Smith and Ryan Hughes. Dora Whitaker – thank you for this awesome assignment! Adam Karlin Thank you to the Bobellershaws (Mike and Nora), whose generosity of spirit is a model for this entire city, if not the world; Andrew Hol- bein the Jazzman and Zach the Younger-Man, who both pushed me so hard to be here; Dan Favre and Trish Kelly, for general winning all over the place; and just too many New Orleans people to mention. Thanks also to an extended family that has encompassed and embraced my actual family: AJ, Halle, Matt, Maria, Adri- an, Darcy, Molly, Travis, Kate, Paige, Morgan, David, Jonah, Melissa, Rob, Katie, Carin...the list goes on. Thank you Amy Balfour for hang- ing like a champ; Dora Whitaker for putting me on this passion project of a book; Mom and Dad for letting me live here with their bless- ings; Gizmo for warming my lap as I write; and most of all Rachel, for her enormous love and support, and my Sanda, whose fresh eyes see the city better than all of us. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Cover photograph: French Quarter, Danita Delimont Stock/WL. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 227
Transcript of Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes - Lonely...
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes
OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Bryan Banek, Celine Baures, Jonas Juhlin, Heather Monell, Stephanie Simard, Murray Tate, Carah Whaley
AUTHOR THANKSAmy C BalfourA very warm thank you to coauthor Adam Kar-lin and his welcoming family – I had a blast! Big thanks also to Christian and Karen Blessey for showing me the town and introducing me to great people and restaurants. And how do you say August? Thanks also to Rozanne Whalen, Kathlyn Perez, Catherine Moloney, Courtney and Spencer Murphy, Stacy and Jeremy Head, Terance Fowler, Deborah Gerhardt, Charlotte Reid, Jim Dawson and local experts Melissa Smith and Ryan Hughes. Dora Whitaker – thank you for this awesome assignment!
Adam KarlinThank you to the Bobellershaws (Mike and Nora), whose generosity of spirit is a model for this entire city, if not the world; Andrew Hol-bein the Jazzman and Zach the Younger-Man, who both pushed me so hard to be here; Dan Favre and Trish Kelly, for general winning all over the place; and just too many New Orleans people to mention. Thanks also to an extended family that has encompassed and embraced my actual family: AJ, Halle, Matt, Maria, Adri-an, Darcy, Molly, Travis, Kate, Paige, Morgan, David, Jonah, Melissa, Rob, Katie, Carin...the list goes on. Thank you Amy Balfour for hang-ing like a champ; Dora Whitaker for putting me on this passion project of a book; Mom and Dad for letting me live here with their bless-ings; Gizmo for warming my lap as I write; and most of all Rachel, for her enormous love and support, and my Sanda, whose fresh eyes see the city better than all of us.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCover photograph: French Quarter, Danita Delimont Stock/WL.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 227
THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Orleans guidebook was researched and written by Adam Karlin and Amy C Balfour, who also researched and wrote the previous edition. The fifth edition was written and researched by Adam
Karlin and Lisa Dunford. This guidebook was pro-duced by the following: Destination Editor Dora Whitaker Product Editors Kate Kiely, Martine Power Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep
Assisting Editors Victoria Harrison, Susan Paterson, Jeanette WallCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Larissa Frost, Victoria Harrison, Jouve India, Wayne Murphy, Jeanette Wall, Lauren Wellicome, Tracy Whitmey
228
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Index1850 House Museum 68
AA Streetcar Named Desire
97, 129Acadian Cultural Center
(Layfayette) 164Acadian people 204Acadiana 191accommodations 15,
172-86, see also Sleeping subindex
air-conditioning 173airport 182Bywater 179-81CBD 181-4Central City 184-5Faubourg Marigny 179-81French Quarter 175-9Garden 184-5gay-friendly 45, 173Lower Garden 184-5Riverbend 185-6Uptown 185-6Warehouse District 181-4websites 176
activities 22-3, see also bicycling, walks
African American people 188-9
African American Social Aid & Pleasure (S&P) Clubs 158
air travel 217airport accommodations 182Alcee Fortier Park 27, 150Alex Beard 108ambulance 220Amistad Research Center
133Angola (St Martinsville) 162
Annie Miller’s Son’s Swamp & Marsh Tours (Houma) 171
antiques 42, 43Aquarium of the Americas
26, 105aquariums 107architecture 21, 205-9
center hall house 209, 208
Creole 6, 207-8, 6, 205, 207
preservation 198area codes 224Armstrong, Louis 211art galleries 67, see also
individual art galleriesArthur Roger 109Lemieux Galleries 109Soren Christensen
Gallery 109Arthur Roger 109arts 39-40, 42, see also
festivals & events, film, literature, music
Arts District 108Ashé Cultural Arts Center 121ATMs 222Audubon Zoo 26, 132,
26, 132
BBackstreet Cultural Museum
151Barataria Preserve 26-7, 170bars 38, see also drinking &
nightlifebathrooms 224Baton Rouge Metropolitan
Airport 217Battle of New Orleans 191Bayou Boogaloo 23Bayou Farewell (2003) 213Bayou St John 118, 152B&Bs 172, 173Beauregard-Keyes House 67beer 35, 38
bicycling 27, 87, 93Bienville, Sieur de 191Big Freedia 44, 212, 212bird refuges 214Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras
World 106Blanchard, Terence 57, 54boat travel 217-18Bolden, Charles ‘Buddy’
196, 211Bonaparte, Napoleon 192-3Boosie, Lil 212bounce music 212Bourbon St 175, 98-9BP oil spill 214Breaux Bridge 163-7Burke, James Lee 165burlesque 80bus travel 216-17, 218business hours 31, 35, 222Butler, Benjamin 195Butterfly Garden &
Insectarium 26, 104-5, 107, 20
Byrd, Henry Roeland 211Bywater, see Faubourg
Marigny & Bywater
CCabildo 62, 118, 62Cajun Country Swamp Tours
(Breaux Bridge) 164Cajun Man’s Swamp Cruise
(Houma) 171Cajun Mardi Gras 204Cajun Music Hall of Fame &
Museum (Cajun Prairie) 168
Cajun people 204Cajun Prairie 167-9Canal St 190Carnival 22, 193car travel 29, 216, 218casket girls 69Castle-Haley, Oretha 123
CBD & Warehouse District 49, 100-14, 100, 108, 244-5
accommodations 181-4activities 106drinking & nightlife 101,
112-13entertainment 40, 113-14food 101, 109-12highlights 100-1, 102-3landmarks 105shopping 101, 114sights 102-3, 104-7street parking 104transport 101walks 108
cell phones 14, 224cemeteries 118, 119, 151Central Business District,
see CBDCentral City, see Garden,
Lower Garden & Central City
Champagne’s Swamp Tours (Breaux Bridge) 164
Chenier, Clifton 211-2children, travel with 26-7
accommodation 173Audubon Experience 107
City Park 9, 26, 146-7, 3, 9, 146
civil rights movement 123, 196
Civil War Museum 106classical music 40climate 15, 217Clouet Gardens 87clubs 37coastal erosion 214cocktails 12, 23-4, 35, 38,
12, 34Code Noir 193, 194coffee 38Colonel Robert Short’s
House 120community gardens 126Congo Sq 157
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
See also separate subindexes for:
5 EATING P232
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P233
3 ENTERTAINMENT P234
7 SHOPPING P234
4 SLEEPING P235
229
Congo Square New World Rhythms Festival 23
Contemporary Arts Center 106
costs 14, 31, 35, 173, 223-4courses 31Courthouse (Thibodaux) 171credit cards 222Creole architecture 207-8Creole culture 52-3, 192-3,
194-5, 202Creole food 20-1Creole peoples 190Creole Queen 68Crescent City Blues & BBQ
Festival 25Crescent Park 13, 87crime 16, also see safetyculture 188-9, 190currency 14currency exchange 222customs regulations 220cycling 27, 87, 93
Ddance 40dangers, see safetyDecatur St 77, 98Dee-1 212Destrehan Plantation
(River Road) 160-1d’Iberville, Sieur 191disabilities, travelers with
224-5Down the Bayou 169-71drinking & nightlife 12,
34-8, 99, 34, 36 see also individual neighborhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex
costs 35gay clubs 45opening hours 35
driving, see car travelDryades St 123
Eelectricity 220emergencies 220entertainment 39-41, see
also individual neighborhoods
costs 40
free 41weekly gigs 40
environment 213-14environmental issues
189, 214Esplanade Avenue 149Essence Music Festival 23etiquette 17, 28-9European settlement 191events, see festivals &
events
FFair Grounds Race Course
149Farm, the (St Martinsville)
162Farrow, Daniel 5fashion 42, 43Faubourg Marigny &
Bywater 49, 85-97, 85, 242-3
accommodations 179-81bicycling 87cycling tours 93drinking & nightlife 86,
92-4entertainment 40, 86,
94-6food 86, 88-92highlights , 11shopping 97sights 87-8tours 88transport 86
Faulkner, William 83ferry travel 217festivals & events 22-3,
see also Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest
children, with 27gay 45Jazz Fest 50-7Mardi Gras 50-7
film 40, 188fire 220Floyd’s Record Shop (Cajun
Prairie) 168food 13, 30-3, 10, see also
individual neighbor-hoods, Eating subindex
cooking demonstrations 122
costs 31courses 31Creole 20-1opening hours 31
Franklin Avenue 99free people of color 193-4Freedia, Big 212
French Acadian people 194-5
French Market 65, 73Frenchmen Art Market 87Frenchmen Street 87, 99French Quarter 48, 58-84,
58, 70, 238-9, 28, 98-9
accommodations 175-9drinking & nightlife
59, 77-9entertainment 40, 80food 59, 71-7highlights 58-9, 60-4pedicabs 82shopping 80-4sights 59, 60-4, 65-71tours 66transport 59walks 70, 70
French Quarter Festival 23, 39
Freret Street 99, 138Freret Street Market 138funk music 211
Ggalleries, see art galleriesGallery Burguieres 67Gallery for Fine
Photography, A 67Gallier Hall 104Gallier House Museum
66-7Garden, Lower Garden &
Central City 12, 49, 115-27, 248-9, 115, 120, 12
accommodations 184-5drinking & nightlife 116,
124-6entertainment 40, 126food 116, 121-4highlights 115-17shopping 116, 126-7sights 117-21transport 116walks 120
gay travelers 44-5Gay Easter Parade 23gentrification 189, 201George Schmidt Gallery
109German Coast Uprising,
the 193Goodrich-Stanley House
119Grace King House 119Great New Orleans fire 192grillades 57
grits 57Gulfport-Biloxi
International Airport 217
HHarouni Gallery 67Harrah’s Casino 107haunted hotels 178health 221-2Hemmerling Gallery of
Southern Art 67Hermann-Grima House 71Historic New Orleans
Collection 65historic sites 118Historic Voodoo Museum
68history 52, 65, 69, 123,
190-201architectural
preservation 198demographics 197-8tourism 198
holidays 223hotels 172
haunted 178parking 180
House of Broel 118-19House of Dance &
Feathers 88Hurricane Katrina 17, 189,
199-201, 213
Iimmigration 202-4Insectarium 26, 104-5, 107international codes 224internet access 220Irish Channel 118itineraries 18-19
JJackson, Andrew 191Jackson Square 27, 60, 60jambalaya 31, 30Jazz Fest 9, 23, 50-7, 3, 8,
24, 54, 56, 212food 57history 55planning 56
jazz music 41, 192, 197, 210-11, 210
Jean Bragg Gallery of Southern Art 108
Jean Lafitte National Historic Park 69
Joan of Arc Parade 22Joseph Carroll House 120
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
230
IND
EX C-J
Jungle Gardens (New Iberia) 165
KKatrina, see Hurricane
Katrina
LLabranche buildings 70Lafayette 163-7Lafayette Cemetery No 1
117, 117Lafitte, Jean 193land loss 189language 14Laura Plantation (River
Road) 160Laurel Valley Village
(Thibodaux) 171Laveau, Marie 150, 194Le Grand Dérangement
204Le Musée de f.p.c. 149Lee Circle 107legal matters 220-1Lemieux Galleries 109lesbian travelers 44-5Levee Path 134LGBTIQ travelers 44-5literature 188live music 20, 39, 169, 188Living with Hurricanes:
Katrina & Beyond (exhibition) 63, 63
Livingston, Robert 192local life 28-9Louis Armstrong New
Orleans International Airport 216
Louis Armstrong Park 152Louis Armstrong statue 152Louisiana Children’s
Museum 27, 107Louisiana Crawfish Festival
23Louisiana Lost Land Tours
(Houma) 170Louisiana State
Penitentiary Museum (St Martinsville) 162
Lower Bourbon Street 68Lower Garden District, see
Garden, Lower Garden & Central City
Lower Ninth Ward 88Lucky Rose 67
MMagazine Street 9, 142, 8Mahalia Jackson Theater
152
Mardi Gras 6, 22, 29, 50-7, 153, 195, 196, 6, 17, 24, 51, 53
beads 29, 53costume contests 54Indian gangs 153information 55
Markey Park 88Marsalis, Branford 211Marsalis, Ellis 211Marsalis, Wynton 211Martin Luther King Jr
Day 22Mary Ann Brown Preserve
(St Francisville) 162McIlhenny Tabasco Factory
(New Iberia) 165McKenna Museum of
African American Art 121
medical services 221-2Mercedes-Benz
Superdome 104Merieult House 65Metairie Cemetery 150Michalopoulos Gallery 67Mid-City & the Tremé 49,
144-58, 186, 254-5, 144, 254-5
accommodations 186drinking & nightlife
145, 156entertainment 40, 157food 152-5highlights 144-8outdoor activities 145shopping 158sights 145, 146-52transport 145
Mid-Summer Mardi Gras 25
Milton Latter Memorial Library 133
Mississippi River 75, 190, 191, 213
Mississippi riverboats 68mobile phones 14, 224money 14, 31, 35, 173, 222Morgan Effigy, the 190Morial, Ernest ‘Dutch’ 198Mortuary Chapel 151motorcycle travel 218Musée Conti Historical Wax
Museum 71museums 21, see also
individual museumsmusic 11, 158, see also
individual musiciansclassical 40funk 211hip-hop & bounce 41
jazz 41, 192, 197, 210-11, 210
live music 20, 39R&B 211rock music 41zydeco 41, 211-12
music stores 43Musical Legends Park 71Myrtles Plantation (St
Francisville) 163
NNational WWII Museum 13,
102, 102Native Americans 191neighborhood parades 17Neville, Aaron 211Neville, Art 211new age healing 96New Iberia 165New Orleans African
American Museum 151New Orleans Center for
Creative Arts 94New Orleans Cotton
Exchange 105New Orleans Jazz National
Historic Park 65-6New Orleans Pharmacy
Museum 71New Orleans Wine & Food
Experience 23newspapers 221nightlife, see drinking &
nightlife, Drinking & Nightlife subindex
Nobby, Sissy 212
OOakley Plantation &
Audubon State Historic Site (St Francisville) 161
Off Bourbon in the Quarter 99
Ogden Museum of Southern Art 103, 103
Old Ironworks 88Old New Orleans Rum
Distillery 87Old US Mint 65Oliver, Joe ‘King’ 211opening hours 35, 222opera 40Oretha Castle-Haley
Blvd 123Our Lady of the Rosary
Rectory 150
Ppagan rites 52
parades 17, 158parking 172, 218
hotels 180parks & gardens 21, see
also individual parks & gardens
Parkway Partners 126pedicabs 82pharmacies 222phonecards 224Pitot House 149planning
budgeting 14, 31, 35children, travel with 26-7festivals & events 22first-time visitors 16-17gay travelers 45itineraries 18-19local life 28-9New Orleans basics 14-15New Orleans
neighborhoods 48-9, 237, 48
packing 16repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15, 22-3websites 14what to wear 16where to stay 174
Plessy, Homer 196Plessy v Ferguson case 196Plessy v Ferguson Plaque
88po’boy 10, 31, 11police 220Ponderosa Stomp musical
festival 25population 189, 202-4pop-up dining 91postal services 222-3Prairie Acadian Cultural
Center (Cajun Prairie) 168
Presbytère 63Preservation Hall 81, 5Preservation Hall Jazz
Band, the 24Preservation Resource
Center 107prostitution 69public holidays 223
Rradio stations 211, 212, 221R&B 211Rebellion of 1768 192reconstruction 196Red Dress Run 24Red, Katey 212
231IN
DEX J-R
rental cars 218Rig Museum (Morgan
City) 170Rink, the 120River Road Plantations
160-1Riverbend, see Uptown &
Riverbendriverboats 217-18
Creole Queen 68Riverwalk 68Steamboat Natchez 68
Riverfront 69Riverwalk 68rodeo (St Francisville) 162Rodrigue Studio 67Rosedown Plantation
Historic Site (St Francisville) 162
Rosegate 120Royal Street 64, 64Running of the Bulls 23
Ssafety 223Sanctuary 151Satchmo festival 24Schultze Gets the Blues
211Second Lines 17, 158Seven Years’ War 192sexual assault hotline 220Shadows on the Teche
(New Iberia) 165shopping 9, 42-3, 223 see
also individual neighborhoods, Shopping subindex see also individual neighborhoods
Shorty, Trombone 211shotgun houses 208-9shuttle 216Sidney Bechet, bust of 152sissy bounce 212slavery, abolition of 196slaves 193-4smoking 188, 221Soren Christensen Gallery
109Southern Decadence
festival 24Southern Food & Beverage
Museum 13, 119, 122souvenirs 42, 43
St Anthony’s Garden 70St Augustine’s Church
151-2St Charles Avenue 129St Charles Avenue
Streetcar 10, 128-9, 135, 10, 128-9
St Claude Avenue 99St Francisville 161-3St Joseph’s Night 22-3St Louis Cathedral 61, 3, 61St Louis Cemetery No 1
148-9, 148St Louis Cemetery No 3
149Steamboat Natchez 68Storyville 69, 197St Patrick’s Day 22St Roch Cemetery 87St Vincent’s Infant Asylum
119streetcars 128-9, 219, 129Super Sunday 23
Ttaxes 17, 223-4taxis 216, 219telephone services 14, 224Tennessee Williams
Literary Festival 23Tet 22theater 40, 41time 14, 221tipping 17, 31, 35, 221toilets 224tourism 198tourist information 14, 224Touro Synagogue 133tours 66
cemeteries 151Save Our Cemeteries 119swamp 164wetlands & swamps
170, 171train travel 217travel to New Orleans 15,
216-17travel within New Orleans
15, 217-19traveler’s checks 222Tremé, the see Mid-City &
the TreméTulane University 133Tunica Falls (St Francis-
ville) 162Twelfth Night 52
UUnited Fruit Company 105
Upper Bourbon Street 71Uptown & Riverbend 49,
130-43, 250-1, 130accommodations 185-6drinking & nightlife 131,
139-41entertainment 40, 141food 131highlights 9, 10shopping 131, 142-3sights 132-4transport 131
Ursuline Convent 66, 69US control 192-3
VVermilionville (Lafayette)
164Vietnamese New Year 22vintage stores 43visas 14, 225voodoo 150, 194, 202-3Voodoo Spiritual Temple 68
Wwalks, see also tours
French Quarter 70, 70Garden District 12,
120, 120Warehouse District, see
CBD & Warehouse District
Washington Square Park 88
weather 15, 22-3, 213websites 14, 173
crime 223gay & lesbian travel 45
Wetlands Cajun Cultural Center (Thibodaux) 171
Wetland Tours (Houma) 171White League, the 195, 196White Linen Night 24Whitney Plantation (River
Road) 160Williams Gallery 65Williams Research Center
65Williams, Tennessee 97wine 35women travelers 225Women’s Guild of the New
Orleans Opera Association 120
YYats 203yellow fever 197
Zzydeco 41, 211-12
5 EATING13 Monaghan 91
AAcme Oyster & Seafood
House 75Adolfo’s 92Angeli on Decatur 73, 90Angelo Brocato 154Antoine’s 77Arabella Casa Di Pasta 90-1Arnaud’s 77Artmosphere (Lafayette) 166
BBa Chi Canteen 13, 135Bacchanal 89Bao & Noodle 91Bayona 76Bennachin 72Birdman Coffee & Books
(St Francisville) 163Blue Dog Cafe (Lafayette)
166Bon Ton Café 111Booty’s 91Boucherie 137-8Bourbon House 77Brennan’s Restaurant 76Broussard’s 77
CCafé Adelaide 110Café Amelie 73Café Beignet 74, 76Café Degas 154Café des Amis (Breaux
Bridge) 166Café du Monde 76Café Reconcile 124Cajun Seafood 155Cake Café & Bakery 90Camellia Grill 134-5Carmo 111Casamento’s 135Central Grocery 72Clancy’s 137Clementine Dining &
Spirits (New Iberia) 165Clover Grill 72Cochon 111Cochon Butcher 111Commander’s Palace 124
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
232
IND
EX EA
TIN
G
Company Burger, the 138Coop’s Place 71Coquette 123Court of Two Sisters 76Cowbell 138Creole Creamery 135Croissant D’Or Patis-
serie 73
DDat Dog 134Delachaise 136-7Dickie Brennan’s 76Dis and Dat 153District: Donuts Sliders
Brew 121Domenica 110Domilise’s Po-Boys 134Dooky Chase 155Drago’s Seafood
Restaurant 110
EEat New Orleans 73Elizabeth’s 92Emeril’s 112
FFatoush 92Fiorella’s 71-2Four Calendar Cafe 91Franklin 92Fremin’s 171French Market 73French Press (Lafayette) 165
GGalatoire’s 72Gautreau’s 137Gene’s 91-2Green Goddess 74-5Guy’s 135GW Fins 77
HHansen’s Sno-Bliz 136Herbsaint 111High Hat Cafe 138
IIl Posto 135Irene’s Cuisine 73
JJacques-Imo’s Café 138Johnny Sanchez 110
Johnny’s Po-Boys 74Joint 89Juan’s Flying Burrito 123Junction 90
KKebab 90K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 76Kukhnya 91Kyoto 136
LLa Divina Gelateria 74La Petite Grocery 139Laphet 91Latitude 29 75Le Pavillon 110Lejeune’s 171Lil’ Dizzy’s 155Lilette 137Liuzza’s By the Track 154Lola’s 154-5Lost Love 89
MMagasin Cafe 137Magnolia Café
(St Francisville) 163Mahony’s Po-Boy Shop 136Mandina’s 155Mardi Gras Zone 92Mariza 92Mat & Naddie’s 139Maurepas Foods 89Meauxbar 73Meltdown 89Midway Pizza 138Mister Gregory’s 74Mona Lisa 72MoPho 155Mother’s 109
NNola 77Nonna Mia Café & Pizzeria
155
OOld Tyme Grocery
(Lafayette) 166Oxalis 92
PPagoda Cafe 152-3Parasol’s 122Parkway Tavern 152Patois 137
Peche Seafood Grill 13, 111Piety Street Snoballs 89Pizza Delicious 13, 88Pizza Domenica 136Popeyes 154Port of Call 71Purloo 122, 124
RRampart Food Store 89-90Red’s Chinese 88-9Refuel 137Restaurant August 110Rita Mae’s Kitchen 171Rock-n-Sake 112Ruby Slipper 153Ruby Slipper Downtown 109Ruby’s Café (Cajun Prairie)
168
SSake Café Uptown 123Salt N Pepper 74Satsuma 91Satsuma Maple 134Seed 122Seoul Shack 91Slice 121Slim Goodie’s Diner 123Sneaky Pickle 90SoBou 13, 76St James Cheese Co 134St Roch Market 89Stanley 74Stein’s Deli 121Sucré 121-2Surrey’s Juice Bar 121Sylvain 74
TTaco Sisters (Lafayette) 166Tee-Eva’s Old-Fashioned
Pies & Pralines 135-6Toup’s Meatery 154Toute de Suite Cafe 106Tracey’s 122Twelve Mile Limit 154
VVerti Marte 72Victor’s Cafeteria (New
Iberia) 165
WWayne Jacob’s
Smokehouse & Restaurant (River Road) 161
We’ve Got Soul 91Who Dat Coffee Cafe &
Cafe Nero 89Whole Foods 136Willie Mae’s Grocery &
Deli 136Willie Mae’s Scotch House
155
YYo Mama’s 74
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
AAbbey 79-80AllWays Lounge 95Avenue Pub 124
BBalcony Bar 125Barcadia 113Bayou Beer Garden 156Bellocq 113Big Daddy’s Bar 94BJ’s 92-3Boot 141Bouligny Tavern 140Bourbon Pub & Parade 79Buffa’s 93Bulldog 125
CCafé Lafitte in Exile 78Cane & Table 78Capdeville 113Carousel Bar 78Chart Room 78Circle Bar 112Columns Hotel 139Cooter Brown’s Tavern &
Oyster Bar 118, 139-40Cosimo’s 78Country Club 93Cure Bar 139, 36
DDouble Play 80Dungeon 79
EErin Rose 78
FFair Grinds 156
233IN
DEX D
RIN
KIN
G &
NIG
HT
LIFE
Faubourg Wines 93Finn McCool’s 156Flora Gallery & Coffee
Shop 94F&M’s Patio Bar 140Fred’s Lounge 169French 75 78Freret Street Publiq House
138, 140
HHalf Moon 125
IIgor’s Lounge 125
JJohn 93
KKajun’s Pub 95Krewe du Brew 125
LLafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
70, 78Latitude 29 13, 78Le Bon Temps Roulé 140Loa 112-13Lost Love 93Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar
113, 118
MMarkey’s 93Mid-City Yacht Club 156Mimi’s in the Marigny 92Molly’s at the Market 77Monkey Hill Bar 141Ms Mae’s 140
NNapoleon House 79NOLA Brewing 13, 124
OOak Wine Bar 141Old Absinthe House 78-9Orange Couch 93Oz 79
PPal’s 156Pat O’Brien’s 70, 79Pearl Wine Co 156Pirate’s Alley Cafe 79Polo Club Lounge 112
RR Bar 93Rendezvous 125Root Squared 125Rue de la Course 141Rusty Nail 113
SSaint Bar & Lounge 125Sazerac Bar 112Siberia 95Snake & Jakes 140Solo Espresso 93Spitfire Coffee 78St Joe’s 139Still Perkin’ 126Sweet Lorraine’s 95Swizzle Stick Bar 112
TTonique 77Treo 156Tropical Isle 79Twelve Mile Limit 156
YYuki Izakaya 94
3ENTERTAINMENTAllWays Lounge 95Apple Barrel 96Artmosphere (Lafayette) 166Atchafalaya Club
(Henderson) 166Balcony Music Club 80Banks Street Bar 157Blue Moon Saloon
(Lafayette) 166Blue Nile 96Bullets 157Café Istanbul 96Café Negril 96Candlelight Lounge 157Checkpoint Charlie 95Chickie Wah Wah 157d.b.a. 94Dragon’s Den 96Fleur de Tease 80
Fountain Lounge 114Fred’s Lounge 169Gasa Gasa 141Hi Ho Lounge 94House of Blues 80Howlin’ Wolf 113Kajun’s Pub 95La Poussiere (Breaux
Bridge) 166Liberty Theater (Cajun
Prairie) 168Maison 95Maple Leaf Bar 141Marigny Opera House 94Mid-City Rock & Bowl 157New Movement Theater
94-5Old Marquer Theatre 96One Eyed Jacks 80Palm Court Jazz Café 80Prytania Theatre 141Randol’s (Lafayette) 167Republic New Orleans 114Saenger Theatre 157Saturn Bar 95Savoy Music Center (Cajun
Prairie) 168Siberia 95Slim’s Y-Ki-Ki (Cajun
Prairie) 168Snug Harbor 95, 99 Spotted Cat 94Sweet Lorraine’s 95Three Muses 96Tipitina’s 141Vaughan’s 95Zeitgeist 126Zydeco Hall of Fame
(Cajun Prairie) 168-9
7 SHOPPING
AAidan Gill for Men 126Alex Beard 108Arcadian Books & Art
Prints 82Ariodante 114Artisans’ Well 96
BBeckham’s Bookstore 82Berta’s & Mina’s
Antiquities 143Big Fisherman Seafood 127Bloomin’ Deals 143Boutique du Vampyre 83Bywater Bargain Center 97
CC Collection 143Central Grocery 84Centuries 82Chiwawa Gaga 81Cole Pratt Gallery 142-3Collectible Antiques 82Crescent City Comics 142
DDirty Coast 127, 142Dr Bob’s Studio 97
EElectric Ladyland 97Euclid Records 97Exodus 80
FF&F Botanica Spiritual
Supply 158Faubourg Marigny Book
Store 97Faulkner House Books
70, 83Feet First 143Fifi Mahony’s 13, 80Fleur de Paris 83Fleurty Girl 127Flora Savage 83French Market 73Funky Monkey 126
GGarden District Bookshop
127GoGo Jewelry 127Green Eyed Gator 81Greg’s Antiques 82
HHazelnut 142Hové Parfumeur 84Humidity Skate Shop 84
II.J. Reilly’s 97Island of Salvation
Botanica 96
JJames H Cohen & Sons
70, 81Java House Imports 83Jim Russell Records 127
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
234
IND
EX EN
TE
RTA
INM
EN
T
LLeah’s Pralines 84Librairie Books 82Louisiana Music Factory 97Lucullus 82
MMagazine Antique Mall 127Maple Street Book Shop
142Mary Jane’s Emporium 84Maskarade 84Massey’s 158Meyer the Hatter 114Moss Antiques 81MS Rau Antiques 82-3
NNew Orleans Art Supply 97New Orleans Cajun
Store 83New Orleans Food Co-op
96New Orleans Music
Exchange 127
OOd Aomo 81Outlet Collection at
Riverwalk 114
PPeaches Records &
Tapes 81Pelican Coast Clothing
Co 143Pied Nu 143Potsalot 142
QQueork 80
RREpurposingNOLA Piece by
Peace 108
SShops at Canal Place 114Simon of New Orleans
126-7SoPo 158Southern Candy Makers 84Storyville Apparel 127
TThomas Mann Gallery
I/O 127Trashy Diva 126Tubby & Coos 158
ZZombie’s House of Voodoo
84
4 SLEEPING3-V Tourist Court (St
Francisville) 163
AAshton’s Bed & Breakfast
186Astor Crowne Plaza 179Audubon Cottages 177Auld Sweet Olive Bed &
Breakfast 179
BB&W Courtyards 180Balcony Guest House 180-1Bayou Cabins (Breaux
Bridge) 167Bienville House Hotel 175Bourbon Orleans Hotel
176, 178Burgundy 179Bywater Bed & Breakfast
179
CChateau Hotel 176Chimes 185Collinwood House 180Columns Hotel 185-6Cornstalk Hotel 70, 177Country Inn & Suites 182Courtyard New Orleans
Downtown 177Crescent City Guesthouse
181
DDauphine House 180Dauphine Orleans 178Degas House 186Drury Inn & Suites 181
EEmbassy Suites Hotel
182-3
FFrenchmen Hotel 181
GGarden District B&B 184Gentry Quarters 176Green House Inn 185
HHampton Inn New Orleans
Downtown 182Hampton Inn St Charles
Avenue 185HH Whitney House 186Historic French Market
Inn 176Hotel Indigo 185Hotel Modern 182Hotel Monteleone 177-8Hotel Provincial 175, 178Hotel Royal 175Hotel St Marie 176Hotel Villa Convento 175
IIndia House Hostel 186Inn on St Peter 177Inn on Ursulines 175-6International House 183
LLa Belle Esplanade 186La Boheme de Marigny 180La Quinta Inn & Suites
Downtown 183Lafayette Hotel 182Lafitte Guest House
175, 178Lamothe House 180Le Pavillon 178Le Richelieu 175Lions Inn B&B 179Loews New Orleans Hotel
183Loft 523 183Lookout Inn of New
Orleans 179
MMaison de Macarty 180Melrose Mansion 181
NNine-O-Five Royal Hotel 177
OOlivier House 175Omni Royal Orleans 179
PPark View Guest House 185Pierre Coulon Guest House
180Prince Conti Hotel 176Prytania Park Hotel 184
RRitz-Carlton New Orleans
178Roosevelt New Orleans 183Royal Sonesta 179Royal Street Courtyard 181
SSaint 177Shadetree Inn Bed &
Breakfast (St Francisville) 163
Soniat House 177
TTerrell House 184
WW French Quarter 178Westin New Orleans at
Canal Place 177Windsor Court Hotel 183-4
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
A Bicycle Named Desire 97Belladonna Day Spa 119Canal Street Ferry 106Confederacy of Cruisers 93Ninth Ward Rebirth Bike
Tours 88Wild Lotus Yoga 96
235IN
DEX S
LEE
PIN
G
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
Boston T stationBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
New Orleans Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd236
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FAUBOURGMARIGNY
FRENCHQUARTER
FrenchMarket
St Claude Ave
Elysian Fields
Ave Pres
s S
t
Music
St
Chartres St
Frenchmen S
t
Touro St
Royal St
Barracks StN Peters St
Pauger St
Dauphine St
Spain S
t
Marigny S
t
Mandeville S
t
N Rampart St
Marais St
St F
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nand
St
Port
StBurgundy St
Kerlerec St
N Peters St
St Philip St
Decat
ur St
Decatur St
St R
och Ave
Fran
klin
Ave
Esplanade Ave
Port
St
Urquhart St
N Villere St
Esplanade
Ursulines
5
74
109
56
4047
42
50
57
45
28
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4
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2
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D
Old New Orleans Rum Distillery Tour (1.8 mi) D
St Roch Cemetery (0.3 mi)
æ Sights (p87) 16 Booty's ........................... E3 35 Red's Chinese................ E2 1 Clouet Gardens ............. E3 17 Cake Café & 36 Satsuma..........................F3 2 Crescent Park.................F4 Bakery ......................... C3 37 Sneaky Pickle ................H2 3 Frenchmen Art 18 Dat Dog .......................... B3 38 St Roch Market ..............C1 Market ......................... B3 19 Elizabeth's.......................F4 39 Who Dat Coffee 4 Frenchmen Street......... B3 20 Fatoush .......................... C2 Cafe & Cafe 5 Healing Center .............. C2 21 Four Calendar Cafe........D1 Nero ............................. C2 6 Markey Park ...................F3 22 Franklin........................... D2
7 New Orleans Center 23 Gene's............................. B2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p92) for Creative Arts......... D3 24 Joint ................................H4 40 Big Daddy's Bar............. C3 8 Old Ironworks .................F3 25 Junction ......................... E2 41 BJ's .................................H3 9 Plessy v Ferguson 26 Kebab ..............................C1 42 Buffa's ............................ A2 Plaque.......................... D3 27 Lost Love........................ C2 43 Country Club ................. E3 10 Washington Square 28 Mardi Gras Zone ........... D3 Faubourg Park.............................. B3 29 Mariza............................. D3 Wines..................(see 21) 30 Maurepas Foods ............F3 44 Flora Gallery & ú Eating (p88) 31 Meltdown ....................... G2 Coffee Shop................ D3 11 13 Monaghan ................. B3 32 Oxalis .............................. E3 45 John ................................ B2 12 Adolfo's .......................... B3 Piety Street 46 Markey's......................... E3 13 Arabella Casa Di Snoballs................(see 8) 47 Mimi's in the Pasta............................ C2 33 Pizza Delicious ...............F3 Marigny ....................... D3 14 Bacchanal ......................H4 34 Rampart Food 48 Orange Couch ...............C3 15 Bao & Noodle................. D3 Store............................ A2 49 R Bar ............................... A3
242
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BYWATER
Mississippi River
St Vincent de Paul Cemetery
CrescentPark
St Claude Ave
N Robertson St
Alv
ar S
t
Clo
uet S
t
Des
ire S
t
Inde
pend
ence
St
Royal St
Dauphine St
N Rampart St
Burgundy St
Less
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St
Gal
lier S
t
Piet
y St
Con
gres
s St
Bar
thol
omew
St
Maz
ant S
t
Fran
ce S
t
N Villere St
Urquhart St
Marais St
Loui
sa S
t
Pola
nd A
ve
Felic
iana
St
Paul
ine
St
Chartres St
Mon
tegu
t St
N Claiborne Ave
46
43
14
36
30
19 24
70
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71
69
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50 Yuki Izakaya................... B3 67 Three Muses.................. B3 ÿ Sleeping (p179) 68 Vaughan's ......................H3 76 Pierre Coulon Guest ý Entertainment (p94) House...........................C3 51 AllWays Lounge............. B2 þ Shopping (p97) 77 Auld Sweet Olive Bed 52 Apple Barrel................... B3 69 Bywater Bargain & Breakfast .................C2 Blue Nile ............... (see 58) Center.......................... F3 78 B&W Courtyards ...........C3 Café Negril ........... (see 54) 70 Dr Bob's Studio ............. E3 79 Balcony Guest House...C3 53 Checkpoint Charlie ....... B3 Electric 80 Burgundy........................D2 54 d.b.a. ............................... B3 Ladyland............ (see 64) 81 Bywater Bed & 55 Dragon's Den................. B4 71 Euclid Records .............. F3 Breakfast..................... E2 56 Hi Ho Lounge ..................B1 72 Faubourg Marigny 82 Collinwood House .........C2 57 Kajun's Pub.................... C2 Book Store .................. B3 83 Crescent City 58 Maison............................ B3 73 I.J. Reilly's.......................B3 Guesthouse.................C3 59 Marigny Opera 74 Louisiana Music 84 Dauphine House............A3 House .......................... D2 Factory ........................B3 85 Frenchmen Hotel ..........B4 60 New Movement 75 New Orleans Art 86 La Boheme de Theater........................ D2 Supply.......................... E2 Marigny........................B3 61 Old Marquer Theatre.... C2 87 Lamothe House.............B3 62 Saturn Bar...................... E2 Ø Sports & Activities 88 Lions Inn B&B................C3 63 Siberia .............................B1 A Bicycle Named 89 Maison de Macarty .......G3 64 Snug Harbor .................. B3 Desire................. (see 73) 90 Melrose Mansion........... A3 65 Spotted Cat ................... B3 Confederacy of 91 Royal Street 66 Sweet Lorraine's ........... A2 Cruisers............. (see 73) Courtyard....................C3
243
cBD
& W
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LOWER GARDENDISTRICT
CENTRALBUSINESSDISTRICT
CENTRALCITY
Tulane Ave
N Ram
part
St
S Ra
mpa
rt S
t
Car
roll
St
Pen
n S
t
Gravier St
Gravier St
Thalia St
S Li
bert
y S
t
S Vi
llere
St
Pryt
ania
St
St Joseph St
University
PlBurg
undy St
Baronne S
t
Sarat
oga
St
Julia
St
Clio St
Girod St
Sugar Bowl Dr
Cleveland St
La S
alle
St
Caron
dele
t St
St C
harle
s Ave
Baron
ne S
t
Bar
onne
St
Union St
Lafayette St
S Sa
rato
ga S
tRam
part
St
Perdido St
O'K
eefe
St
Erato St
Common St
Car
onde
let S
t
S R
ampa
rt S
t
Pontchartrain Expwy
Ore
tha
Castle
-Hal
ey Blvd
St Cha
rles
Ave
Lee C
ir
Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Poydras Ave
Howard Ave
Sim
on B
oliv
ar S
t
Loyo
la A
ve
Elk Pl
Julia
Poydras
Rampart St
Lee Circle
Julia
Robert E LeeMonument
UnionPassengerTerminal
Post OfficeMain Branch
Ogden Museumof Southern Art
38
15
29
30
449
16
2
6
8
12
55
59
54
61
52
26
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5
4
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1
7
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A
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244
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WAREHOUSEDISTRICT
FRENCHQUARTER
Mississippi R
iver
WoldenbergPark
LafayetteSq
SpanishPlaza
PiazzaD'Italia
Moo
nwal
k
Canal St
Cla
y St
Con
stan
ce S
t
Cam
p S
t
S Maestri
N Maestri
Decatu
r St
Poe
Dr
Chu
rch
St
St Louis St
Girod St
Julia St
Exch
ange
Pl
N F
ront
St
Natchez St
S P
eters St
Ann
unci
atio
n StPoeyfarre St
Tcho
upito
ulas
St
Con
stan
ce S
t
Mag
azin
e St
Bourbon
St
Mag
azin
e St
Decat
ur St
Lafayette St
Royal
St
Cam
p St N
Pet
ers
St
Notre Dame St
Fulton St
Port of N
ew O
rleans P
lConti St
Com
merce S
t
Dauphin
e St
Chartre
s St
Iberville StBienville St
Andrew Higgins Dr
Capdeville St
S Diamond St
N Diamond St
Poydras St
Poydras St
Convention C
enter Blvd
S P
eters StTc
houp
itoul
as S
t
Pic
ayne
Pl
John Churchill Chase St
Clin
ton
St
Ferry to Algiers
Union St
Common St
Poydras
Bourbon St/Carondelet St
Chartres St/Camp St
Peters St
Toulouse
Poydras
Canal
Bienville
Julia
JohnChurchillChase
Ernest N MorialConvention
Center
JuliaRow
RiverwalkMall
USCourthouse
IMAXTheatre
Canal StreetFerry
PostOffice
NationalWWII Museum
50
37
40
39
36 41
3
7
10
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CBD & WAREHOUSE DISTRICT Map on p244
æ Top Sights (p102) Bellocq ............................................... (see 55) 1 National WWII Museum .............................E6 37 Capdeville.................................................... E4 2 Ogden Museum of Southern Art ..............D6 38 Circle Bar.....................................................D6 Loa...................................................... (see 56) æ Sights (p104) 39 Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar.........................F5 3 Aquarium of the Americas.........................G3 Polo Club Lounge ............................. (see 62) 4 Arthur Roger Gallery .................................. E5 40 Rusty Nail .....................................................E7 5 Butterfly Garden & Insectarium ............... F2 Sazerac Bar........................................(see 61) 6 Civil War Museum.......................................D6 Swizzle Stick Bar .............................. (see 22) 7 Contemporary Arts Center .......................E6 41 Wine Institute of New Orleans 8 Gallier Hall....................................................D4 (WINO)...................................................... F4 9 George Schmidt Gallery.............................D5
10 Harrah's Casino ..........................................G3 ý Entertainment (p113) 11 Jean Bragg Gallery of Southern Art ......... E5 Fountain Lounge............................... (see 26) 12 Lee Circle .....................................................D6 42 Howlin' Wolf ................................................ F6 13 Lemieux Galleries ....................................... F5 43 Republic New Orleans ............................... F6 14 Louisiana Children's Museum................... F5
15 Mercedes-Benz Superdome .....................A3 þ Shopping (p114) 16 New Orleans Cotton Exchange.................D2 44 Alex Beard Studio....................................... D5 17 Preservation Resource Center .................F6 45 Ariodante..................................................... E5 18 Scrap House................................................G7 46 Meyer the Hatter ........................................ E2 19 Soren Christensen Gallery ........................ F5 47 Outlet Collection at Riverwalk ..................H5 20 United Fruit Company................................E3 48 REpurposingNOLA Piece by Peace ........................................................ E5 ú Eating (p109) 49 Shops at Canal Place ..................................F3 21 Bon Ton Café...............................................E3
22 Café Adelaide ..............................................F4 Ø Sports & Activities 23 Carmo...........................................................E5 50 Creole Queen ..............................................H4 24 Cochon .........................................................F6
25 Cochon Butcher.......................................... F6 ÿ Sleeping (p181) 26 Domenica..................................................... D1 51 Country Inn & Suites...................................F3 27 Drago's Seafood Restaurant.................... G4 52 Drury Inn & Suites...................................... D3 28 Emeril's......................................................... F5 53 Embassy Suites Hotel.................................F5 29 Herbsaint .....................................................D4 54 Hampton Inn New Orleans 30 Johnny Sanchez..........................................D3 Downtown ................................................D3 Le Pavillon..........................................(see 59) 55 Hotel Modern ..............................................D6 31 Mother's.......................................................F4 56 International House ................................... E3 32 Peche Seafood Grill .................................... E5 57 La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown ........... E3 33 Restaurant August ..................................... F3 58 Lafayette Hotel ........................................... E4 34 Rock-n-Sake ............................................... G6 59 Le Pavillon ...................................................D3 35 Ruby Slipper – Downtown......................... F3 Loews New Orleans Hotel ............... (see 22) 60 Loft 523........................................................ E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p112) 61 Roosevelt New Orleans .............................D2 36 Barcadia.......................................................F4 62 Windsor Court Hotel ...................................F3
246
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Thal
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Brain
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Felicity
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Rampart St
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Prytania StCamp St
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Rich
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Aline StDelachaise StChippewa St
Tcho
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St
Felicity
St
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St
Toledano StPleasant St
St Tho
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Eighth St
Seventh St
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Sycamore St
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Oct
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Dublin S
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Ara
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Hen
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Hickory St
Oak St
Pine
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Pine
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Broad
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t
S Claiborne Ave
Magnolia St
Short St
Benjamin St
Milla
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Green St
Burdette
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Hurst St
Benjamin St
Adams S
t
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Nas
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Clara St
Neron St
Pitt St
Jeannette StPlum St
Dominican StAud
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St
Pearl St
Garfield St
Chestnut St
Cal
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St
Lower
line
St
Annunciation St
Hurst St
Spruce St
Pitt St
Fern S
t
Prytania St
Hillary
St
Coliseum St
Belle
cast
le S
t
Camp St
Jose
ph S
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Hampson St
Monro
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Patton St
Maple St
Garfield St
Leonidas St
Constance St
River Dr
Zoo Ave
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Mississippi R
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Leake Ave
Freret St
Audu
bon
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St Charles Ave Streetcar
Broadway
JeffersonAve
LoyolaUniversity
S Carrollton Ave
Tulane University/Audubon Park & Zoo
Oak St
S Caliborne Ave
Nashville
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AudubonZoological Gardens
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Laurel St
Third St
Washington Ave
Fourth St
Prytania St
Magazine St
Chestnut St
Toledano St
Second St
Constantinople St
Second St
Eighth St
Dufo
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St
Tchoupitoulas St
Philip St
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ony StSeventh St
Prytania St
Delachaise St
Valence St
Peniston St
Marengo S
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iat S
t
First St
Constance St
Perrier St
Third StRocheblave St
Milan S
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Rob
ert S
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Carondelet St
Annunciation St
Jackson Ave
S Liberty St
Felicity St S
St Andrew St
S Dop
re S
t
Jena St
Jena St S Gay
oso
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Fourth StTonti St
Eden St
Pe
S Sa
lced
o St
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Bordeaux S
t
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S Lop
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Aline St
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Cadiz S
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Clara St
Roman St
Gen P
ershing StLyons S
t
Gen Taylor S
t
Delachaise St
Antonine St
Freret St
Austerlitz St
Dryades St
S Broad St
Sim on Bolivar S
t
Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Napoleon Ave
Louisiana Ave
Louisiana Ave
Toledano St
Earhart Blvd
S Cla
ibor
ne A
ve
Broad
St
Coliseum St
Camp St
Peniston St
Gen Taylor St
Am
elia StFoucher St
Annunciation St
Lasalle St
Carondelet St
Loyola St
Saratoga St
Danneel St
La Salle St
S Liberty St
Valence St
Cadiz S
tJena S
tMagnolia St
Foucher St
Napoleon A
ve
Cadiz S
t
Napoleon A
veLyon
s S
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Rob
ert S
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Jeff
erso
n Av
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St
Nash
ville
Ave
Jena St
Gen
Taylor St
Gen
Pershing St
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Willow StG
en Pershing S
tM
ilan St
Gen
Taylor StAm
elia St
Loyola St
Freret St
S Claiborne Ave
Duf
ossa
t St
Saratoga St
Danneel St
Dryades St
Baronne St
Carondelet St
Toledano St
Harm
ony StSeventh St
Sixth St
Prieur S
tJohnson St
Fontainebleau Dr
S Robertson St
Pitt St
St Charles Ave
Tchoupitoulas St
S Derbigny St
S Derbigny St
Napoleon
Louisiana
Washington Ave
4644
47
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6 8
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3427
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uPtO
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UPTOWN & RIVERBEND Map on p250
æ Top Sights (p132) 39 Whole Foods ...............................................D6 1 Audubon Zoological Gardens....................B6 40 Willie Mae's Grocery & Deli ....................... B3
æ Sights (p133) û Drinking & Nightlife (p139) 2 Amistad Research Center .........................C4 41 Boot..............................................................C3 3 Audubon Park..............................................B5 Bouligny Tavern................................ (see 28) 4 Hogan Jazz Archive ....................................C3 42 Columns Hotel ............................................ G5 5 Levee Path ...................................................A2 43 Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster 6 Milton Latter Memorial Library.................E5 Bar ............................................................. A3 7 Newcomb Art Gallery.................................C3 44 Cure.............................................................. E4 Southeastern Architectural 45 F&M's Patio Bar...........................................E7 Archives ............................................ (see 4) 46 Freret Street Publiq House ....................... E4 8 Touro Synagogue ....................................... F5 47 Le Bon Temps Roulé.................................. E6 9 Tulane University........................................C3 48 Monkey Hill Bar...........................................C6 Ms Mae's.............................................(see 13) ú Eating (p134) 49 Oak Wine Bar .............................................. B2 10 Ba Chi Canteen ...........................................B3 50 Rue de la Course......................................... B2 11 Boucherie..................................................... B1 51 Snake & Jakes............................................. B2 12 Camellia Grill ...............................................A3 52 St Joe's ........................................................D6 13 Casamento's ...............................................F6
14 Clancy's .......................................................C7 ý Entertainment (p141) 15 Company Burger ........................................E4 53 Gasa Gasa ................................................... E4 16 Cowbell......................................................... A1 54 Lupin Theatre..............................................C4 17 Creole Creamery.........................................E6 55 Maple Leaf Bar............................................ B2 18 Dat Dog ........................................................E4 56 Prytania Theatre......................................... D5 19 Delachaise ...................................................G5 57 Tipitina's .......................................................F7 20 Domilise's Po-Boys.....................................D7
21 Gautreau's ...................................................E5 þ Shopping (p142) 22 Guy's.............................................................D6 58 Berta's & Mina's Antiquities...................... F6 23 Hansen's Sno-Bliz....................................... E7 59 Bloomin' Deals............................................ E4 24 High Hat Cafe ..............................................E4 60 C Collection................................................. A2 25 Il Posto..........................................................E5 61 Cole Pratt Gallery .......................................G6 26 Jacques-Imo's Café....................................B2 62 Crescent City Comics................................ E4 Kyoto ...................................................(see 17) 63 Dirty Coast ..................................................D6 27 La Petite Grocery........................................ F6 64 Feet First...................................................... F6 28 Lilette........................................................... G6 65 Freret Street Market .................................. F4 29 Magasin Cafe...............................................F6 66 Hazelnut ......................................................D6 30 Mahony's Po-Boy Shop............................. G6 67 Maple Street Book Shop ........................... B3 31 Mat & Naddie's............................................A2 68 Pelican Coast Clothing Co.........................D6 32 Midway Pizza...............................................E4 Pied Nu............................................... (see 66) 33 Patois............................................................C6 69 Potsalot........................................................G6 34 Pizza Domenica ..........................................E6
35 Refuel ...........................................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p185) 36 Satsuma Maple ...........................................B3 70 Chimes......................................................... F6 37 St James Cheese Co ..................................E6 Columns Hotel .................................. (see 42) 38 Tee-Eva's Old-Fashioned Pies & 71 Hampton Inn St Charles Avenue..............G5 Pralines .....................................................E6 72 Park View Guest House .............................B4
252
MID
-cItY & thE trEM
ÉMID-CITY & THE TREMÉ Map on p254
æ Top Sights (p146) 35 Pagoda Cafe.................................................F3 1 City Park....................................................... C1 36 Parkway Tavern..........................................D4 2 St Louis Cemetery No 1 ............................ G6 37 Ruby Slipper................................................C4 38 Toup's Meatery...........................................C2 æ Sights (p149) 39 Twelve Mile Limit........................................ B5 3 Alcee Fortier Park .......................................E2 40 Willie Mae's Scotch House........................ F4 4 Backstreet Cultural Museum....................H5
5 Botanical Gardens...................................... C1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p156) 6 Carousel Gardens Amusement Park ....... B1 41 Bayou Beer Garden....................................D4 7 Congo Square ............................................ H6 42 Fair Grinds................................................... E2 8 Esplanade Avenue ......................................E2 43 Finn McCool's .............................................B4 9 Fair Grounds Race Course ........................E2 44 Mid-City Yacht Club ................................... A3 10 Le Musée de f.p.c........................................ F3 45 Pal's.............................................................. E3 11 Louis Armstrong Park............................... H6 46 Pearl Wine Co..............................................D3 12 Louis Armstrong Statue ........................... H6 47 Treo .............................................................. B5 13 Mortuary Chapel........................................ G6 Twelve Mile Limit.............................. (see 39) 14 New Orleans African American
Museum ....................................................H5 ý Entertainment (p157) 15 New Orleans Museum of Art ..................... C1 48 Banks Street Bar ........................................ A3 16 Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory ...............D2 49 Bullets ..........................................................H2 17 Peristyle ....................................................... C1 50 Candlelight Lounge.................................... G5 18 Pitot House..................................................D2 51 Chickie Wah Wah........................................ D5 19 Sanctuary ....................................................D3 52 Mahalia Jackson Theater ..........................H6 20 Singing Oak.................................................. D1 53 Saenger Theatre......................................... G7 21 St Augustine's Church ...............................H5
22 St Louis Cemetery No 3..............................E1 þ Shopping (p158) 23 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture 54 F&F Botanica Spiritual Garden....................................................... C1 Supply....................................................... E4 55 Massey's......................................................C3 ú Eating (p152) 56 SoPo.............................................................C3 24 Angelo Brocato ...........................................B3 57 Tubby & Coos .............................................C3 25 Café Degas...................................................E2
26 Cajun Seafood............................................ H4 Ø Sports & Activities 27 Dis and Dat ..................................................E6 58 City Putt........................................................B1 28 Dooky Chase ............................................... F5 59 Wheel Fun Rentals.......................................D1 29 Lil' Dizzy's ................................................... H4
30 Liuzza's By the Track .................................E2 ÿ Sleeping (p186) 31 Lola's ............................................................E2 60 Ashton's Bed & Breakfast.........................G4 32 Mandina's.....................................................C4 61 Degas House............................................... F4 33 MoPho ..........................................................B2 62 HH Whitney House.....................................G4 34 Morning Call ................................................ C1 63 India House Hostel..................................... D5 Nonna Mia Café & Pizzeria ..............(see 25) 64 La Belle Esplanade.....................................G4
253
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N Dupre
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S Sal
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Palm St
N M
urat St
N Olym
pia St
S Cor
tez St
Alla
rd B
lvd
N Gay
oso St
Stroelitz St
Clio St
S St Pat
rick St
Iberville St
S Olym
pia St
S Lopez S
t
N Ber
nadotte
St
S Ren
don St
David
St
Solom
on St
S Cla
rk S
t
N Ren
don St
Conti St
S Dor
geno
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Rosedale Dr
N Hag
an A
vePalmyra St
S Solo
mon S
t
S M
urat St
Toulouse StHen
nesse
y St
S Dupre
St
Howard Ave
Lafitte Ave
Baudin St
Cleveland St
D'Hemecourt St
Banks St
Bienville St
Banks St
Ulloa St
Delgado Dr
Orleans Ave
Washington Ave
Tulane Ave
Earhart Blvd
N Carro
llton Ave
S Carro
llton Ave
S Bro
ad Ave
Canal St
Moss St
M
oss St
LeLong Dr
Orleans Ave
N Anth
ony StN
St Patric
k St
N Alex
ander
St
City Park Ave
Victory AveG
ener
al D
iaz
St
Lafitte Ave
Toulouse St
S Tel
emac
hus St
S W
hite St
Gravier StPerdido St
Palmetto StEuphrosine St
Edinburgh St
Erato St
Pontchartrain Expwy
Dumaine St
Frederichs Ave
N Jeffe
rson
Dav
is Pkw
y
Collins Diboll Cir
St Peter St
Broad St
White St
JeffersonDavis Pkwy
N Carrollton Ave
Bienville St
OrleansAve
City Park & Museum of Art
City Park
58
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ESPLANADERIDGE
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No 2
S Rom
an St
S Prie
ur St
Rosiere
St
Dumaine St
St Ann St
N Lopez
St
Gayos
o St
Derby Pl
Dupre S
t
Desoto St
N Rom
an StN M
iro S
t
N Dorgenois St
Law St
N Tonti
St
Conti St
Toulouse St
Hope St
St Peter St
Agriculture St
Duels St
Aubry St
St Ann St
Barracks St
Republic S
t
Ursulines Ave
Lafitte Ave
Industry St
Toulouse St
Havana S
t
S Jo
hnson
St
Allen
St
D'Abadie St
Palmyra St
Governor Nicholls St
AP
Tureaud Ave
Lapeyrouse St
St Phillip St
La Harpe St
Cleveland St
Lafitte Ave
Bienville St
Gen
tilly
Blv
d
Orleans Ave
Columbus St
Esplanade Ave
St Bernard Ave
N Rom
an St
N Johnso
n St
N Gal
vez S
t
N M
iro St
N Ton
ti St
N Roch
ebla
ve S
t
N Dor
genoi
s St
St Peter St
St Louis St
Toulouse St
St Peter St
Orleans Ave
Basin
St
Iberville St
Onzaga St
S Gal
vez S
t
N Ram
part
St
N Bro
ad A
ve
Canal St
Esplanade Ave
Leda
St
Bol
ivar
St S
Derbig
ny St
Tulane Ave
N Sal
cedo S
t
Bayou RdLe Page St
N Tonti St
N Roch
ebla
ve S
t
Dumaine St
St Ann St
N Gal
vez St
N Jo
hnson
St
St Philip St
Kerlerec StTre
mé St
N Ville
re St
N Rob
erts
on St
N Prie
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Paul M
orphy S
t
New
Orleans
St
N Lopez St
Fortin StMaurepas St
Ponce de Leon StGrande Route St John
N Dorg
enois
St
Roussel
in D
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tte D
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St
N Rom
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t
Belfort Ave
N Prie
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Poydras St
S Cla
iborn
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N Cla
ibor
ne Ave
N Der
bigny S
t
Castiglione St
Trafalgar St Bruxelles S
t
N Jo
hnson
StN
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St
Galvez St
Rampart StBasin St/Elk Pl
Claiborne Ave
St LouisCemetery No 1
11
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255
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – November 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 009 3© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Our WritersAmy C BalfourCBD & Warehouse District; Garden, Lower Garden & Central City; Uptown & Riverbend; Mid-City & the Tremé Amy’s first visit to New Orleans was a college trip to Mardi Gras when the four B’s – bars, beads, boys and a ball gown – were her only concerns. She has now added boudin. Amy has visited 47 states but keeps returning to New Orleans to explore more of the city. On this trip she fell for City Park, Clancy’s, and 12 Mile Limit. Amy has authored or co-authored 27
Lonely Planet guidebooks. Amy also wrote the Survival Guide.
Adam KarlinFrench Quarter, Faubourg Marigny & Bywater, Day Trips from New Orleans Adam first came to New Orleans as a young freshman on spring break back in 1999. Even through a haze of dumb nights on Bourbon, he knew the place was special, a feeling that was confirmed when he revisited a decade later for Lonely Planet. That time around, he really fell for New Orleans, and now lives there
with his wife and daughter. Otherwise, Adam has written over 45 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, primarily covering the Americas, but stretching as far afield as the Andaman Islands to the Zimba-bwe Border (get it? A-Z? Never mind). Adam also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand New Orleans chapters.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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