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342342

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adam Grubb, Adam Krigel, Adrie Pouwer, Aishling Middelburg, Alex Smith, Alex Wharton, Alexandra Forest, Aline Pabst, An-dreas Rohner, Anja Biedermann, Anja Stumpf, Annalisa Cavallini, Anne Klier, Anthony Redden, Astrid Lenz, Becca Lumley, Bernhard Bouzek, Brian Jones, Caroline Schouten, Chen Xiaoqin, Chloë Eelen, Chris Bachmann, Chris Rowland, Chris Sutton, Chris Tuck, Christopher Rowland, Clare Foxon, Colin Stevenson, Darius Bazazi, Dennis Walker, Donald Ross, Elaine Cadzow, Elicia Murdoch, Elizabeth Miller, Femke Koek, Filip Tanay, Francis Lu, Frank Höppener, George Barrow, Gerrie Bakker, Greg Kiriakou, Gregory Rose, Heather O’Callaghan, Herman Fuglest-vedt, Hollis Burbank-Hammarlund, Jack Clancy, Jamie Witton, Jane Havell, Jan-Willem Over-beek, Jaymini Shah, Jean-Philippe Castellani, Jeremy Dodd, Jessi Johnson, Jhone Guken,

Jim Robertson, Joanne Antonetti, Joe Lim, Joyman Lee, Julia Lawrence, Julie Woods, Kaye Kent, Keith Liker, Lars Sander-Green, Louis de Moor, Luuk & Marion Sommers, Maarten van Krimpen, Malcolm Skinner, Mandy Kellagher, Mark Thamel, Marta Cardoso, Martin Abra-hams, Martin Wyss, Mary Pelton, Matt Garner, Meaghan Philpott, Mehves Evin, Melanie Luangsay, Michael Gurney, Michal Rudziecki, Milena Artner, Mogens Frandsen, Mollie Jones, Neil Passmore, Nils Klahr, Noah Impekoven, Noelia Rivas, Ole Nielsen, Paul Reynolds, Peter Phillips, Peter Svensson, Petra O’Neill, Petra Sigrist, Piotr Suffczynski, Rachael Glazier, Robin Daus, Ruben Baumgarten, Rutger van den Groenendaal, Sam Fenning, Sarah Meixell, Sarah Phillips, Sheila Miller, Silvia Durrsperger, Stefan Schmidt, Stephen Drewe, Tahira Sher-iff, Tamar Drori, Tatjana & Teodora Gazibara, Verena Pietsch, Willemijn Brouwer, Willem-Jan Altena, William Hall, Zubair Khawar

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

343BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

WRITER THANKSRyan Ver BerkmoesThanks to all those who won’t let the appall-ing events of 2009 be forgotten. And thanks to all those who have made the last 20 years at Lonely Planet an incredible run, with life-changing travel, remarkable creativity and more than 100 fabulous books. But most important are the life-long friendships with some magnificent people. And then there’s love: without LP, no Alexis Ver Berkmoes! Finally, because he’s been there from the start, Samuel L Bronkowitz has been an in-spiring muse.

Bradley MayhewMany Sri Lankans helped out with the logis-tics of research, especially Dimuthu Priyadar-shana in Giritale, and also A Malik in Kandy, and Mali and Niksan Peiris in Alankuda. Thanks to Roy in Sigirya for letting me drive the tuk-tuk and to Martin Fullerton for his generous help.

Iain StewartIt was a utter pleasure to revisit Sri Lanka, such a very special country. Thanks to Somey, my friend, driver and guide in the South and Hill Country, Nisha for the motorbike loan and company in Kandy, Juliet Coombe for her help and tips in Galle, Herman, the Bedspace boys around Mirissa, the Chill team in Ella and Joe Bindloss and all the Lonely Planet crew.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163-344.

Cover photograph: Buddhist monk on Weliga-ma beach, Tuul & Bruno Morandi/4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook was curated by Anirban Ma-hapatra and researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Bradley Mayhew and Iain Stewart. The previous two editions were written by Stuart Butler, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Amy Karafin and Iain Stewart .

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editor Grace DobellSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Virginia MorenoAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennet,

Janice Bird, Anne Mulvaney, Saralinda Turner, Simon Williamson, Maja Vatrić Assisting Cartographer Diana Von HoldtCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Katherine Marsh, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Lauren O’Connell, Kirsten Rawlings, Amanda Williamson

344

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 20, 320-1,

335, 337-8, see also indi-vidual locations

activities 26-8, 39-45, see also individual activities

Adam’s Bridge 291Adam’s Peak 12, 170-3,

12, 178adventure sports, see also

individual activitiesColombo 68Negombo 90

Ahangama 125-6air travel 326-7airlines 326-7airports 326Aluthgama 97-101Ambalangoda 104amoebic dysentery 332Ampara 254-5Ancient Cities 54, 202-42,

203accommodation 202food 202highlights 203

animals 46-7, 309-11, see also safaris, wild-life-watching, individual species

Anuradhapura 10, 228-37, 230, 10

accommodation 234-6festivals 234food 236history 228-9information 236sights 229-34tours 234travel to/from 236-7travel within 237

archaeological sitesKuchchaveli 269

Polonnaruwa 215-25Sigiriya 209-13

architecturecolonial 25, 78-9Geoffrey Bawa 69

area codes 19art galleries, see museums

& galleriesArugam Bay 13, 246-51,

248, 13ATMs 323Aurudu (New Year) 26Ayurveda 13, 20, 25, 100,

333, 13Amaya Hills 166Anuradhapura 236Beruwela 100Colombo 68Ella 193Habarana 214Hikkaduwa 104Kandy 166Mirissa 130Negombo 92-3 Unawatuna 121

BBadulla 194ballooning 206-7Bambalapitiya 74, 72Bandarawela 187-8, 187Baobab Tree Pallimunai 291bargaining 21Batticaloa 255-60, 256Bawa, Geoffrey 69beaches 8, 14, 23, 39-45

Alankuda Beach 96Arugam Bay 246-7 Bentota 98Casuarina Beach 288Chaatty Beach 286Chempiyanpattu Beach

284Colombo 67culture 41Dikwella 135

Dutch Bay Beach 263Galle 108Goyambokka 136Hikkaduwa 101Hiriketiya 135Kabalana Beach 125Kalkudah 260Kallady Beach 258Kalpitiya Beach 96Keeri Beach 291Kirinda 144Lighthouse Point 252Manalkadu Beach 284Manayaweli Cove 263Marakolliya Beach 137-8Marble Beach 264Matara 132Medaketiya Beach 137Midigama Beach 126Mirissa 130Munai Beach 283Navalady Peninsula 258Negombo 89Nilaveli 267Northeast Shore 284Okanda 253Panama 253Passekudah 260Pottuvil 251Rekawa Beach 138safe swimming 40-1Talalla 134Tangalla 137Thalpe 123-5Unawatuna 118, 119Uppuveli 265Waikkal 94Weligama 126Whiskey Point 252

bears, see sloth bearsBelihul Oya 183-4Bentota 97-101bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 47-8, 198

Arugam Bay 247Habarana 214

Horton Plains National Park 182

Kandy 157Kitulgala 169Knuckles Range 167Kokkilai Lagoon 269Negombo 90Sigiriya 213Talaimannar 292Tangalla 138Waikkal 94

boars 47, 140, 174, 182, 196, 198

boating 43, 327, 328Batticaloa 257Bentota 98Kandy 157Nilaveli 267-8Panama 253

books 294Galle 114wildlife 48

Borella 64-5Bridge on the River

Kwai 169Buddhism 298, 313-14Buddhist sites, see also

Buddhist statues, Buddhist stupas, Buddhist temples

Athagala 242Aukana Buddha 208Buddangala Rajamaha

Viharaya 255Buduruwagala 194-5Getabaruwa Raja Maha

Viharaya 198Isurumuniya Vihara 234,

2, 10Japanese Peace Pagoda

255Kataluwa Purwarama

Temple 123Kudumbigala Forest

Hermitage 253Madukanda Vihara 289Maha Saman Devale 200

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

345IN

DEX B

-D Malwatte Maha Vihara

155-6Nagadipa Temple 286Pathma Vihara 246Seruwawila Rajamaha

Viharaya 264Sri Maha Bodhi 229Wewurukannala Vihara

135Buddhist statues, see also

Buddhist sites, Buddhist stupas, Buddhist temples

Monaragala Viharaya Buddha 241

Samadhi Buddha 232Buddhist stupas, see also

Buddhist sites, Buddhist statues, Buddhist temples

Ambasthale Dagoba 238Et Vihara 239Jetavanarama Dagoba

233Kantaka Chetiya 239Kirivehara 147Mahaseya Dagoba 238Mirisavatiya Dagoba

233-4Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba

229Sandahiru Seya 235Thuparama Dagoba 231Tissa Dagoba 141Yatala Wehera 141

Buddhist temples 24, see also Buddhist sites, Buddhist statues, Buddhist stupas

Abhayagiri Dagoba 231-2, 221

Alut Maligawa 152Angurukaramulla

Temple 89Asgiriya Maha Vihara 156Cave Temples 205-6, 221Degal Doruwa Raja Maha

Vihara 166Dematamal Vihara 246Dowa Temple 187Gadaladeniya Temple

165Galapata Raja Temple 98Gangarama Maha Vihara

101Gangaramaya Temple

62, 24Golden Temple 206Kelaniya Raja Maha

Vihara 68Kolawenigama Temple

198

Lankatilake Temple 165Mahiyangana Dagoba

168Muthiyagana Vihara 194Natha Devale 153Padeniya Raja

Mahavihara 242Pattini Devale 154Rakkhiththakanda Len

Viharaya Cave Temple 191

Ridi Vihara 241-2Seenigama Vihara 101Temple of the Sacred

Tooth Relic 152, 12Tenavaram Kovil 134Vatadage 217, 219, 220Vishnu Devale 153Yatagala Raja Maha

Viharaya 118budgeting 19, 35, 77buffaloes 145, 174, 195-6,

226, 247, 253, 254, 309Bundala National Park 11,

140-1, 11, 129Burghers 313bus tours 69bus travel 328 business hours 323

CCadjugama 151cafes 35canals 89car travel 328-9, see also

driving tourscash 323casinos 82cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Dambulla 205-6Kitulgala 169Mahinda’s Cave 238Yapahuwa 240

cell phones 18, 324cemeteries

Commonwealth War Cemetery 265

Kandy Garrison Cemetery 153

Kandy War Cemetery 166Ceylon 301-2Chilaw 94children, travel with 51-2,

157Christianity 315churches & cathedrals

Church of the Ascension 187

Dutch Reformed Church 109

Our Lady of Madhu Church 292

Our Lady of Refuge Church 276

Our Lady of Sorrows 257St Andrew’s Church 63St Anthony’s Church

(Colombo) 68 St Anthony’s Church

(Velanai) 286St James’ Church 276St Lucia’s Cathedral 68St Mary’s Cathedral

(Batticaloa) 257St Mary’s Cathedral

(Jaffna) 275 St Mary’s Cathedral

(Trincomalee) 263St Paul’s Church 153St Peter’s Church 59Wolvendaal Church 60

Cinnamon Gardens 63climate 18, 26-8, 34, see

also individual regionsColombo 53, 56-86, 57,

60-1, 64-5, 72, 75accommodation 56, 70-5activities 68climate 56drinking & nightlife 81-2entertainment 82festivals & events 69-70food 56, 75-81highlights 57history 58information 84-5itineraries 59neighbourhoods 63shopping 17, 82-4, 17sights 58-68tours 68-9travel seasons 56travel to/from 85-6travel within 86

colonial architecture 16, 25, 16

consulates 321-2cooking courses 36

Ella 188, 189, 190Galle 116 Giritale 226Kandy 166Mirissa 130, 132Polonnaruwa 224Talalla 134Unawatuna 119

courses, see also cooking courses, diving, surfing,

yogakitesurfing 43, 90lace-making 117meditation 62, 68, 166papermaking 117 watersports 98 windsurfing 43

credit cards 323cricket 82, 109Crocodile Rock 253crocodiles 91, 97, 132, 141,

145, 196, 213, 226, 247, 252, 254, 311

cultural triangle 206culture 294-5currency 18, 323customs regulations 321cycling 327-8

Batticaloa 258Colombo 69Ella 189Jaffna 277Nuwara Eliya 175

DDalhousie 171-2Dambana 168Dambatenne Tea

Factory 15Dambulla 205-9, 207dance performance 161dangers, see safetyDeberawewa 143deer 47, 97, 145, 174, 182,

192, 196, 198, 214, 226, 227, 263

deforestation 311Delft 286-8dengue fever 332devales 153-4devil masks 104Dikoya 172Dikwella 135disabilities, travellers

with 324diving 40, 43, 45

Bar Reef 95-6Batticaloa 258Great Basses Reef 144Hikkaduwa 101-2Kalpitiya Peninsula 95Kirinda 144Negombo 90Nilaveli 268Pigeon Island National

Park 268Unawatuna 119Uppuveli 265Weligama 127

346

IND

EX D-H

dolphin-watching 43Kalpitiya Peninsula 95Mirissa 131Weligama 127

Dondra 134drinking 34-8, see also tea,

individual locationslanguages 335-6, 338tipping 21

driving 328-9driving tours

Colombo 68-9Mullaittivu 287Trincomalee 264

Duruthu Perahera 26

EEast Sri Lanka 54, 243-69,

244accommodation 243climate 243food 243highlights 244weather 243

economy 294-5electricity 321Elephant Pass 284-5Elephant Quay 284Elephant Rock 253elephants 47, 140, 145-6,

195-6, 212-3, 214, 226-7, 246, 254, 284, 309-11

Ella 8, 188-94, 189, 192, 178

accommodation 188-90, 192-3

activities & courses 188eating & drinking 190food 193-4information 191shopping 190-1travel to/from 191

embassies 321-2Embilipitiya 197emergencies 19, 336, 338endangered species 311environmental issues 308-11etiquette 21

beaches 41photography 323temples 233

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 19

Ffauna 309-11, see also

safaris, wildlife- watching, individual species

festivals & events 26-8, see also individual locations

field guides 48films 294flora 308-9food 34-8, 322, 2, see

also individual locationsbudgeting 322languages 335-6, 338tipping 21

fortsColombo 58-9Batticaloa 256-7Dutch Fort 290Fort Frederick 263Fort Hammenhiel 288Galle 108-9, 78, 128Jaffna Fort 273Mannar 78-9Matara 132

fruit 34

GGalle 13, 107-18, 110, 113,

5, 13accommodation 112,

114-15activities 109, 111drinking & nightlife 117festivals & events 112food 115-17history 107-8information 117shopping 117sights 108-9tours 109, 111travel to/from 117-18

Galle Face Green 62Galle Fort 108-9, 78, 128gardens, see parks &

gardensGathering, the 227gay travellers 322gems 201giardiasis 332-3Giritale 225-6golf 174-5government travel advice

324Goyambokka 136-7

HHabarana 214-15Hambantota 144

Haputale 184-7, 185health 331-4

insurance 331vaccinations 331

hepatitis 332heritage sites 25highways 329hiking, see also walks

Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 170-1

Ella 188Haputale 185Kandy 156-7Kitulgala 169Knuckles Range 167Monaragala 245Nuwara Eliya 175-6

Hikkaduwa 101-5, 102Hill Country 54, 149-201,

150accommodation 149climate 149food 149highlights 150weather 149

Hinduism 314-15Hindu shrines, see also

Hindu sites, Hindu temples

Maha Devale 147Murugan (Kataragama)

Temple 95Hindu sites, see also Hindu

shrines, Hindu templesAnipandi Sitivigniswara

Alayar 257Kandasamy Kovil 263,

289Maviddapuram

Kanthaswamy Kovil 282

Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil 286, 16

Naguleswaram Shiva Kovil 282

Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil 273

Salli Muthumariamunam Kovil 265

Selvachannithy Murugan Kovil 283

Sri Manika Pillaiyar 255Thiruchendur Murugan

Alayam Temple 258Thirukketeeswaram

Kovil 290Thurkkai Amman Kovil

282Vallipura Aalvar Kovil 283Varatharaja Perumal

Kovil 288

Hindu temples, see also Hindu shrines, Hindu sites

Embekka Devale 165Gadaladeniya Temple

165Ganesh Temple 245Kali Kovil 263Kataragama Devale

154, 194Lankatilake Temple 165Okanda Sri Murugan

Kovil 253-4Pettah Hindu Temples 61Seetha Amman

Temple 174Sri Muthumariamman

Thevasthanam 204Hinduism 314-15Hiriketiya 135-6historic buildings

Amangalla 109Cankili Thoppu Archway

276Cargills Main Store 59Central Point 58Dutch Hospital 58, 109Historical Mansion 109Lloyd’s Buildings 58Mantiri Manai 276Old City Hall 59-60Old Dutch Trade Centre

132Old Town Hall 63Theru Moodi Madam 283

historic sitesFlag Rock 108Main Gate 108Old Gate 108Point Utrecht Bastion

108Yamuna Eri 276

history 296-307, see also individual locations

Anuradhapura 297-8British 300Buddhism 298ceasefire 304Dutch 300Nationalism 300-1peacekeeping 303-4Polonnaruwa 299Portuguese 299-300prehistory 296-7tanks 298

hitching 329-30HIV 332holidays 323-4Ho-o-maniya Blowhole 135horse riding 175

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

347IN

DEX H

- MHorton Plains National

Park 181-3, 14human rights 294-5

Iimmigration 326Induruwa 97-101influenza 332insurance 322internet access 323internet resources 19, 322Islam 313, 315, see also

mosquesitineraries 29-33, 29-33

JJaffna 16, 272-80, 274-5

accommodation 277-8activities 277drinking 278-9entertainment 279festivals & events 277food 278-9history 272information 280shopping 279-80sights 272-7travel to/from 280travel within 280

Jaffna Peninsula 280-5, 281

Jaffna’s Islands 285-8Japanese B encephalitis

332

KKabalana Beach 125Kadugannawa 151Kalkudah 260-1Kalpitiya Peninsula 95-6Kandy 12, 151-67, 154-5,

164accommodation 157-9activities 156-7drinking & nightlife 160-1entertainment 161food 159-63history 151, 153information 162shopping 161-2sights 152-6travel to/from 163travel within 163

Kandy Esala Perahera 28, 159

Kandyan dance 161Karaitivu 288Kataragama 28, 147-8, 147

Kaudulla National Park 226-7

kayaking 43Kayts 285Keerimalai Spring 282Kegalle 151Kilinochchi 288Kirinda 144-5kitesurfing 43

Kalpitiya Peninsula 95-6Negombo 90

Kitulgala 169-70Knuckles Range 167-9Koggala 123-5Kollupitiya 62-3, 64-5Koslanda 195Kotabakina 168Kotahena 67-8Kumana National Park 254Kurunegala 242

Llakes

Hikkaduwa Lake 101Kaludiya Pokuna 239Kandalama Wewa 213Kandy Lake 152Koggala Lake 123Kothmale Reservoir 173Naga Pokuna 239South Beira Lake 62Tissa Wewa 141Wirawila Wewa 141

languages 18, 21, 335-41Sinhala 335-7Tamil 337-9

leeches 199legal matters 323leopards 46, 48, 97, 145,

182, 196, 226-7, 247, 254

lesbian travellers 322LGBTQI travellers 322Liberation Tigers of Tamil

Eelam (LTTE) 282, 302-3

librariesAlliance Francaise

(Kandy) 161 Alliance Francaise

(Jaffna) 279British Council (Kandy)

161 British Council (Jaffna)

279Buddhist Publication

Society 161-2Jaffna Public Library

273, 302

Mulkirigala Rock Temples 140

Potgul Vihara 223Lighthouse Point 252-3lighthouses

Batticaloa Lighthouse 257

Dondra 134Old Galle Buck

Lighthouse 58Point Pedro Lighthouse

283Lipton, Sir Thomas 184literature 294, see also

booksLittle Adam’s Peak 188

MMaha Sivarathri 26Mahiyangana 168malaria 332Maligawila 246Mannar Island 290-2Mannar Town 290-1maps 323markets

Colombo 60-1, 77, 83, 84, 17

Dambulla 206Galle 109Jaffna 279Kandy 161Negombo 24, 89Vavuniya 288

masks 104Matale 204Matara 132-4, 133measures 322Medaketiya Beach 137medical services 331-2meditation centres

Dhamma Kuta Vipassana Meditation Centre 166

Kanduboda Siyane Meditation Center 68

Nilambe Buddhist Meditation Centre 166

Seema Malakaya Meditation Centre 62

memorials, see monuments & memorials

Midigama 125-6Mihintale 237-40, 238military 273Minneriya National Park

226-7Mirissa 15, 127-32, 15, 128mobile phones 18, 324Monaragala 245

monasteries, see also Buddhist temples

Abhayagiri Monastery 231

Adisham Monastery 184-5

Aluvihara 204 money 18, 323

tipping 21money changers 323monkeys 120, 134, 136, 140,

145, 147, 165, 182, 284monuments & memorials

Elephant Pass War Memorial 285

Independence Memorial Hall 67

War Memorial 285Moors 313mosques

Auliya Mosque 257Dewata-Gaha Mosque 67Grand Jummah

Mosque 288Meeran Mosque 113Ul-Khizr Mosque 147

motorcycle travel 328-9Mt Lavinia 67, 75Mulkirigala Rock Temples

140Mullaittivu 287Munneswaram 95museums & galleries

Abhayagiri Museum 232Archaeological Museum

(Anuradhapura) 229 Archaeological Museum

(Polonnaruwa) 215 Ceylon Tea Museum 166Classic Car Museum 169Dutch Period Museum

59Gemmological Museum

200Geoffrey Bawa House

62-3Heritage Museum of

Kattankudy 257Jaffna Archaeological

Museum 274-5Jetavanarama Museum

233Kataragama Museum 147Lionel Wendt Centre 67Marine Archeological

Museum 109Maritime & Naval History

Museum 263Martin Wickramasinghe

Folk Art Museum 123Mihintale Museum 239

348

IND

EX M-S

museums & galleries continued

Museum of Wall Paintings 206

National Maritime Museum 109

National Museum (Colombo) 63, 78

National Museum (Galle) 109

National Museum (Kandy) 152-3

Saskia Fernando Gallery 67

Sri Dalada Museum 152Traditional Puppet Art

Museum 67Tsunami Education

Centre and Museum 103

Tsunami Photo Museum 103

World Buddhism Museum 152

Muthurajawela Marsh 91Mutur 264

NNagadipa 286Nainativu 286Nalanda Gedige 204-5national parks & reserves

46-50Bundala National Park

11, 140-1, 11, 129Galway’s Land National

Park 174Hikkaduwa National

Park 101Horton Plains National

Park 181-3, 14Kaudulla National Park

226-7Kumana National Park

254Minneriya National Park

226-7Pigeon Island National

Park 268Sinharaja Forest Reserve

197-200Thangamale 185Uda Walawe National

Park 10, 195-7, 10, 179Udawattakelle

Sanctuary 153

Wilpattu National Park 96-7

Yala National Park 145-6Neduntivu 286-8Negombo 89-94, 90, 92

accommodation 90-3activities & courses 90drinking & nightlife 93food 93information 93-4sights 89-90travel to/from 94travel within 94

newspapers 322Nilaveli 267-9, 268, 14Northern Sri Lanka 54,

270-92, 271accommodation 270climate 270food 270highlights 271history 272weather 270

Nuwara Eliya 173-81, 175accommodation 176-80activities 174-6food 180history 174sights 174tours 176

OOkanda 253-4opening hours 19, 323

PPadhanagara 232palmyra palms 285Panama 253-4Panduwasnuwara 241parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Brief Garden 97-8Coconut Cultural Park

260Euphoria Spice &

Herbal 205Hakgala Gardens 174Henerathgoda Botanic

Gardens 151Heritage Spice & Herbs

Garden 205Mahatma Gandhi Park

257Old Park 273-4Peradeniya Botanic

Gardens 163-5Royal Palace Park 156

Royal Pleasure Gardens 234

Victoria Park 174Viharamahadevi Park 67

Passekudah 260-1passports 326Peanut Farm 253Pearl Island 291people of Sri Lanka 312Pettah 59-61, 60-1photography 323Pidurangula 213Pigeon Island National

Park 268pilgrimage 172planning

budgeting 18-19calendar of events 26-8checklist 20children 51-2drinking 34-8exchange rates 19first time visitors 20food 34-8internet resources 18-19itineraries 29-33national parks 146packing list 20repeat visitors 22Sri Lanka basics 18-19Sri Lanka’s regions 53-4travel seasons 18, 26-8

plants 308-9, see also palmyra palms

Point Pedro 283politics 294-5Polonnaruwa 16, 215-25,

216, 217, 2accommodation 223-4food 224information 224-5sights 215-23travel to/from 225travel within 225

population 295postal services 323Pottuvil 251-3, 252poya 27-8, 172, 314public holidays 323-4Puliyanthivu 256-7Pulmoddai 269Punkudutivu 286

Rrabies 332Radawaduwa 151Radella 180Ratnapura 200-1

refunds 323Rekawa Beach 138-40religion 295, 313-14, see

also individual religionsreserves, see national

parks & reserves, parks & gardens

responsible travel 45, 310Ridi Vihara 241-2Ritigala 227-8ruins

Anuradhapura 228-37Assembly Hall 237Chulangani Vihara 245Dakinigiriya Vihara 213Dalada Maligawa 233Deegawapi 254-5Dutch Fort 89Girihandu Seya 269Indikatu Seya Complex

239Kantarodai Ruins 282Lowamahapaya 231Magul Maha Vihara 251Mahapali Refectory 233Mandalagiri Vihara 225Monks’ Refectory & Relic

House 237Mudu Maha Vihara 251Panduwasnuwara 241Ratnaprasada 232Ritigala 227-8Royal Palace 232Yudaganawa Dagoba 245

Ssafaris 46-50, see also

national parks & reserves

Bundala National Park 140, 143, 146

Kalpitiya 95Kumana National Park

254Minneriya & Kaudulla

National Parks 226-7Wilpattu National Park 97Yala National Park 143,

145-6 safety 40-1, 45, 279,

324, 331scuba diving, see divingseafood 34, 36shopping 25, 336, 338,

see also individual locations

shrines, see individual religions

Sigiriya 11, 209-13, 210, 11, 222

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

349IN

DEX S

-Y Sinhala 335-7Sinhalese people 312Sinharaja Forest Reserve

197-200Situlpahuwa 145Slave Island 62sloth bears 46, 50, 97, 145,

196, 227smoking 322snorkelling 40, 43, 45

Aluthgama 98Bar Reef 96Hikkaduwa 102Kalpitiya Peninsula 95-6Nilaveli 267-8Pigeon Island National

Park 268Unawatuna 118Weligama 127

South Beira Lake 62Southern Sri Lanka 53,

106-48, 107accommodation 106climate 106food 106highlights 107

spasColombo 68Galle 109, 111Mirissa 130Unawatuna 119

spice gardens 205Sri Pada 170-3stadiums 109sunsets 80surfing 13, 42-3, 13

Arugam Bay 246-7Hikkaduwa 102Hiriketiya 135Midigama 125Pottuvil 251

swimming 40-1, see also beaches, snorkelling

Arugam Bay 247Colombo 67, 73Jaffna’s Islands 285

TTalaimannar 291-2Talalla 134-5Talawila 95Tamil language 337-9Tamil people 312-13Tamil Tigers 282, 302-3Tangalla 8, 137-40, 139, 8tanks 234

Taprobane 126-7taxes 323, 298taxis 330tea 15, 35, 316-18, 15

Blue Field Tea Estate 173Dambatenne Tea Factory

184Glenloch Tea Estate 173Handunugoda Tea Estate

124 Mackwoods Labookellie

Tea Factory 173Newburgh Green Tea

Factory 192Pedro Tea Estate 176Uva Halpewaththa Tea

Factory 191telephone services 18, 324Thalpe 123-5theft 323three-wheelers 330tickets (Ancient Cities) 206time 324tipping 21Tissamaharama 141-3, 142toilets 324tourist information 324tours, safaris, driving tours,

see also individual locations

canoe 251-2jeep 143tea plantation 130tuk-tuk (Galle) 111 turtles 137

train travel 8, 330, 9travel seasons 18, see also

climate, individual regions

travel to/from Sri Lanka 326-7

travel within Sri Lanka 327-30

traveller’s diarrhoea 332trekking, see hikingTrincomalee 261-5, 262tsunami 103, 122, 305tuberculosis 332tuk-tuks 330turtles 99, 137TV 322typhoid 332

UUda Walawe National Park

10, 195-7, 10, 179 Udappuwa 95

Unawatuna 118-23, 120, 128

accommodation 119-21drinking & nightlife 123food 121-3information 123sights & activities 118-19travel to/from 123

Unesco World Heritage Sites 25

Union Place (Colombo) 62universities 63Uppuveli 265-7, 266Utuwankandu 151

Vvacations 323-4vaccinations 331Valvettiturai 283Vavuniya 288-90, 289Veddah people 168, 297,

312Velanai 285-6Vesak Poya 27viewpoints

Aradhana Gala 239Lipton’s Seat 185Lovers Leap 174Swami Rock 263

viharas 155-6visas 18, 324-5volunteering 325

WWaikkal 94walks, see also hiking

Colombo 68-9 Galle 111, 112-13, 112-13Unawatuna 119

waterfallsBambarakanda Falls 183Diyaluma Falls 195Kiruwananaganga Falls

198Lovers Leap 174Ramboda Falls 173Rawana Ella Falls 191-2

water sports 23, 98, see also individual activities

weather, see climate, individual regions

websites 19, 322weights 322Weligama 126-7

Wellawatta 63, 74, 80, 72Wellawaya 193-5Western Sri Lanka 53,

87-105, 88accommodation 87climate 87food 87highlights 88weather 87

whale-watching 40, 43, 131Kalpitiya Peninsula 95Mirissa 15, 131, 15Nilaveli 267Trincomalee 261

Whiskey Point 252white-water rafting 43, 169wi-fi 323wildlife-watching 24, 46-8,

see also individual animals

Arugam Bay 247Elephant Transit Home

196Kaudulla National Park

226-7Minneriya National Park

226-7Sinharaja Forest Reserve

198Udawattakelle

Sanctuary 153Wilpattu National Park 96-7windsurfing 43, 98women travellers 325women’s health 333work 325World’s End 14, 181-3

YYala National Park 145-6Yapahuwa Rock Fortress

240-1yoga

Arugam Bay 249Ella 193Hiriketiya 136Kandy 159, 167Lighthouse Point 253Midigama 125Nilaveli 268Talalla 135Unawatuna 118, 121

Yudaganawa 245-6

350

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Iain Stewart The South, Hill Country, Wildlife & Environmental Issues, People of Sri Lanka, Sri Lankan Tea Iain first hit the road during his university years, hitch-hiking around Europe followed by short forays into Turkey, Israel and Egypt. He then spent more than two years travelling the world – from India to Honduras – in the early 1990s, a trip that included a stint in Tokyo teaching English. Skint and without a career on his return to the UK, he trained as journalist and then worked as a

news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. Iain started writing guidebooks in 1997 and has worked for six publishers (including Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and DK Eyewitness) and penning over 30 books for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain’s worked on titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and Southeast Asia on a Shoestring for Lone-ly Planet. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer, Daily Telegraph and Wanderlust. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two, a beach of a generally sandy persua-sion, a night club and a cocktail list. After 18 years in South London, Iain moved to Brighton in 2003 and lives close to sea, within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – Jan 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 257 8© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAnirban MahapatraCurator Anirban Mahapatra multitasks as a multimedia travel journalist, iPhone photographer and independent filmmaker. Since 2007, his role as a Lonely Plan-et writer has seen him research, write, edit and curate multiple editions of Lonely Planet’s bestselling India travel guidebook, several region-specific India hand-books, as well as country guidebooks Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Bhutan. Apart from authorial roles, he has also designed content models and held training

workshops for new authors for Lonely Planet’s India operations. Among his video pursuits, he has produced travel and cultural documentary films under the aegis of the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Information & Broadcasting (Govt of India), and is currently working on an experimen-tal documentary on the ancient Himalayan kingdom of Mustang. When not roaming the world on work or personal explorations, he reads up on Buddhism, hosts barbecues and listens to the blues in his homes in Kolkata and Dhaka.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesColombo, The East Coast, Jaffna & the North, Plan chapters Ryan Ver Berkmoes has written more than 110 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All joy of this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been travelling the world, both for pleasure and for work—which are often indistin-guishable. He has covered everything from wars to bars. He definitely prefers the

latter. Ryan calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.

Bradley MayhewThe West Coast, The Ancient Cities Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Ne-pal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey,

Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long- distance trails. His first gigs with Lonely Planet were guides to Pakistan and the Karakorum High-way and he progressed from there to write for first editions of Southwest China and Shanghai.

OVERPAGE

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