Behind the Scenes - Lonely...
Transcript of Behind the Scenes - Lonely...
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Ana van Es, Jilles van Dam, Mahmoud Muna, Mar-gaux Thierrée, Naomi Jenkins, Neal Hirst, Teresa Lampropoulos.
AUTHOR THANKSDaniel RobinsonSpecial thanks to (north to south): Talal (Mt Hermon); Clery (Metulla); Irit Steinberg (Hula Nature Reserve); Meni Tzuberi (Katzrin); Cha-noch (Yehudiyya); Ido Shaked (Gamla); Doron (Bikta b’Kadita); Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and Moshe Tov Kreps (Tzfat ); Tal Ben David (Rosh Pina); Etha & Erwin Frenkel (Korazim); Lilach (Majrase); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Nissim Mazig (Kursi); Moshe Ohz (Tiberias); Ayala & Ofer Markman, Roni Barziv and Mira Lugasi (Haifa); Egi (Hammat Gader); Maoz Yinon, Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Emile Emran, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the White Mosque, and Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene Transport & Tourism (Nazareth); Vered (Belvoir); Sarinah Kalb and Leo, Bella and Shoshana (Tel Aviv); Noam (Ein Feshkha); Michal and Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Shai (Ein Gedi Field School); Kfir
(Masada); Sarah (Ein Bokek tourist office); Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most especially, my wife, Rachel, and son, Yair, for their unwavering support, understanding and patience.
Orlando CrowcroftI would like to thank the staff and volunteers at the Cinema Guest House and the Freedom Theatre in Jenin for their insights and advice on their city – past, present and future. Yazeed Abu Khdeir in Jerusalem, my fixer and friend and a partner on West Bank road trips too numerous to mention. Layla Torres in Bethle-hem. All the staff at Area D Hostel in Ramallah and International Friends Youth Hostel in Nablus; my homes away from home during the research of this book. Hazem Balousha and Heidi Levine, who looked after me in Gaza. Lastly every West Bank taxi driver, coffee seller or shopkeeper who went out of their way to put me on the right path when I pulled up and begged directions in broken Arabic.
Virginia MaxwellMany thanks to Peter Handsaker and Pat Yale, who accompanied me on two research trips to Israel for this job, as well as to my expert co- author Daniel Robinson and to locals Mira Mar-cus, Oren Mor, Yael Biedermann, Maoz Inon, Yaron Burgin, Naomi Dvora, Gal Mor, Lee Balot, Yoash Limon and Omer from the Overstay.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
428
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Jenny WalkerReturning to Petra is always a great pleas-ure, not just on account of the spectacular ancient city, but also because the people of Wadi Musa and Umm Sayoun live up to their reputation for ‘heart and wit’. Thanks as ever to all Jordanian friends who have helped over the years of engagement with this chapter and to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, who accompanied and supported as ever during research and write-up.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Hisham’s Palace, West Bank, Vdovin Ivan/Alamy.Illustrations: pp50-1 by Javier Zarracina; pp338-9 by Michael Weldon.
THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Israel & the Pales-tinian Territories guidebook was researched and written by Daniel Robinson (coor-dinating author), Orlando Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell and Jenny Walker. The pre-vious edition was written by Daniel Robinson (coordinat-
ing author), Michael Kohn, Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Walker. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Helen ElferProduct Editors Kate Chapman, Samantha ForgeBook Designer Cam Ashley
Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Kate Evans, Kirsten Rawlings Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Ilana Kosky, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, Lonely Planet Cartography, Samantha Tyson
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 429
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1948 Arab-Israeli War 355
AAbbas, Mahmoud 221, 251,
345, 380Abdullah, King 357Abu Dis 261Abu Ghosh 103accommodation 401-2, see
also individual locationslanguage 421, 423price ranges 402
Acre, see Akkoactivities 22-5, 402-4, see
also individual activitiesAfrican Hebrew Israelites
366Agamon HaHula 236Agnon, Shmuel Yosef 386Aida Refugee Camp 259air travel 412-13Akhziv 182Akhziv National Park 182Akko (Acre) 14, 175-80, 178,
2, 14, 192Al-Aqsa Mosque 49, 51, 60,
68, 84, 350, 51Al-Bireh 262-5Al-Haram ash-Sharif 9, 47-
52, 348, 349, 350, 50-1Al-Khader Church 262Allenby, Edmund 351alpacas 314, 316Al-Qasaba 274Amichai, Yehuda 386amusement parks, see also
water parksKfar Blum Kayaks 239King’s City & Funtasia 322Mini Israel 104Ya’ar HaAyalim 245
Ani’am Artists Village 244
animals 392-3, see also individual species
Appelfeld, Aharon 386aquariums
Underwater Observatory Marine Park 320
Arabic 423-4Arad 305Arafat, Yasser 263-4, 357-8,
379Arava, the 317-20Arch of Titus 348archaeological digs 60, 215,
402, 410-11archaeological sites 332-3,
see also fortresses & palaces; ruins
Ancient Bathhouse 188Ancient Katzrin Park 241Ancient Synagogue (Ein
Gedi) 289Beit She’an National
Park 198Bethsaida 215Capernaum 214Crusader City 172Herodian Quarter
Museum 61Jerusalem Archaeological
Park & Davidson Centre 59-60
Kursi National Park 218Magdala 208-9Masada 296Mey Kedem Tunnel 170Sebastiya 275-6Tel Arad National Park 305Tel Be’er Sheva 309Tel Dan Nature Reserve
238Tel Hatzor 235-6Tel Maresha 104Tell Balata 275
archery 314architecture 108, 133
Bauhaus (International) 15, 108, 110, 155, 15
Beit Jalad (Jerusalem) 78
Crusader 62, 167, 199Mamluk 63, 273Ottoman 273
area codes 19, 408Armageddon, see MegiddoArmenian ceramics 64art galleries 227, see also
museumsChelouche Gallery 114Ein Hod Gallery 168Ethiopian Arts Workshop
306General Safed Exhibition
226Helena Rubenstein
Pavilion 110Herzliya Museum of
Modern Art 145Ilana Goor Museum 118Museum on the Seam 70-2Museum Without Walls
155Negev Artists’ House 306Negev Museum of Art 306Rubin Museum 110Spice Route Quarter 313Studio Magal 168Tel Aviv Museum of Art
110, 133Tiberias Open Air
Museum 202Yad Gertrude Kraus 168
arts 386-91Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue
223Ashkenazim 349, 363assassinations 277, 281,
282, 357, 358, 359astronomy 314ATMs 406Avdat 308Ayn Hawd 167-9
BBaha’i faith 156Baha’i Gardens (Akko
area) 180
Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 150-3, 12
Balfour Declaration 353Banias Nature Reserve 246Banksy 256Basilica of the Annunciation
185, 193basilicas, see churches,
basilicas & chapelsbathhouses 336bats 392Battle of Ein Jalut 201beaches 20, 168, 215, 2, 10,
132, 294-5Alma Beach 121Bat Galim Beach 158Beach Bar 173Bograshov Beach 121Coral Beach Nature
Reserve 322Dolphinarium Beach 124Eilat 322-3Ein Bokek Beach 298Ein Gedi Beach 289Frischmann Beach 121Gordon Beach 121HaDekel (Palm) Beach
323Hilton Beach 121Hof HaCarmel Beach 158Metzitzim Beach 121Mineral Beach 293Netanya 146Nordau Beach 121North Beach 323Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo)
121, 132Village Beach 323
Beatles, the 387Bedouin people 365beer 369
breweries 242festivals 86, 266Taybeh Beer Brewery 266
Be’er Sheva 305-7, 306Beit Alpha Synagogue 199
430
IND
EX B-D
Beit She’an 15, 198-9, 15Beit She’an Valley 198-201Beit She’arim 165Belvoir 199Bethlehem 16, 253-60,
254, 16checkpoints 261
Bethsaida 215Bezalel Academy of Arts &
Design 389bicycling, see cyclingBikta BeKadita 234birds 394birdwatching 392, 394,
402-3Eilat 325Hula Valley 236
Black Hebrews, see African Hebrew Israelites
boat travel 413-17books 344, 393
environment 393health 419history 351, 354politics 380religion 384
border crossings 30-3breakfast 368, 370British mandate 44, 73, 97,
150, 280, 353-4budget 19bus travel 414, 416business hours 407-8
West Bank 258
CCaesarea 13, 171-5, 172, 13calendars 23Caliph Omar 350-1camel riding 309, 314,
324, 336camping 401-2
Dead Sea 293Galilee, Lower 188Petra 342Sea of Galilee 215Sodom 301
Capernaum 214car travel 414-16
4WDing 317road rules 415-16safety 398Shabbat 414
Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 167
Caro Synagogue 223cash 18, 19, 406-7cathedrals, see churches,
basilicas & chapelscaves
Beit-Guvrin 103Cave of Machpelah 273Cave of the 40 Holy
Monks 188Dodim Cave 289Elijah’s Cave 157-8Flour Cave 290Maresha 103Mt Sodom 301Rosh HaNikra Grottoes
182Soreq Cave 103
celebrity chefs 131cell phones 18, 408Centre International Marie
de Nazareth 188-9ceramics 64, 168, 273Chagall, Marc 84chapels, see churches,
basilicas & chapelscheckpoints 261cheese 225, 311, 370children, travel with 34-5chocolate 244Christian peoples 365-6Christianity 350-1, 383-4Christmas (Orthodox) 22Christmas (Western) 25churches, basilicas &
chapels, see also monasteries
Al-Khader Church 262Basilica of Jesus the
Adolescent 189Basilica of the
Annunciation 185Basilica of the
Transfiguration 196Cana Catholic Wedding
Church 195Cana Greek Orthodox
Wedding Church 195Chapel of the Ascension
68Christ Church 54Church & Monastery of
the Apostles 203Church & Monastery of
the Dormition 65Church of All Nations 69Church of John the
Baptist 58Church of Mary
Magdalene 69Church of St John the
Baptist 84
Church of St Nico demus & St Joseph of Arimathea 147
Church of St Peter of Gallicantu 66
Church of the Angels 260
Church of the Ascension 68
Church of the Holy Sepulchre 54-8, 55, 82, 212
Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves & Fishes 209, 213
Church of the Nativity 255, 212
Church of the Pater Noster 68
Church of the Primacy of St Peter 209
Church of the Redeemer (Jerusalem) 58
Church of the Resurrection 103
Church of the Visitation 84
Franciscan Monastery & Church 196
Greek Orthodox Church of St George 277
Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation 187
Jacob’s Well 275Lutheran Christmas
Church 255Milk Grotto Chapel 257Monastery of the Twelve
Apostles 214Mount of the Beatitudes
209-14Our Lady of the Ark of
the Covenant 103Russian Chapel of the
Ascension 68Russian Compound 73St Andrew’s Church 77St Anne’s Church 62St Catherine’s Church
256St George’s Cathedral 73St James’ (Jacques’)
Cathedral 64St Mark’s Chapel 64St Mary’s Syrian
Orthodox Church 255St Peter’s Church 202Synagogue-Church 188Tabgha 209, 213
Church of the Holy Sepulchre 11, 54-8, 55, 11, 212
cinema 390-1cinemas 86, 163, 217,
265, 390Circassian people 365City of David 66-7climate 18, 198, see also
individual regionsclothing 74consulates 405Constantine the Great 41,
350, 384courses
cooking 171, 336Kabbalah 228language 85, 122, 158
cowboys 245cranes 236Crusades, the 350-1culture 373-6
Jewish 362-4currency 18customs regulations 404cycling 9, 403, 413-14, 416
Arava, the 317, 319Coexistence Trail 232Cycling Tel Aviv 124internet resources 403Kiryat Shmona 240Mifgash HaOfanayim 240Mitzpe Ramon 314Neot HaKikar 301Sde Boker 311Sea of Galilee 204Tel Aviv 121
DDaliyat al-Karmel 166-7Dalton Plateau, see Ramat
DaltonDAM 388Damari, Shoshana 387Damascus Gate 53, 62dance 388dangers, see safe travelDarwish, Mahmoud 357,
386David, King 65, 346Dead Sea 9, 38, 285-302,
286, 2, 9, 294-5climate 285festivals 302food 285geography 287geology 395highlights 286history 287planning 285travel seasons 285travel to/from 287-91
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
431IN
DEX D
-HDead Sea Scrolls 16, 79,
292, 17Dead Sea Works 300development 375, 395-6Dheisheh Refugee Camp
259diarrhoea 419Diaspora, Jewish 349directions 422, 423-4disabilities, travellers
with 409discount cards 35, 155,
395, 404diving & snorkelling 404
Caesarea 173Coral Beach Nature
Reserve 322Eilat 322, 323, 324
documentaries 344Dome of the Rock 9,
49-52, 8-9drinking 21drinking water 420drinks, see wine; beerdriving, see car traveldrumming 124Druze flag 365Druze people 247, 366
EEgypt
border crossings 32Eilat 320-9, 321, 322-3
safe travel 328Ein Bokek 298-300Ein Feshkha (Einot Tsukim)
292Ein Gedi 288-91Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
288-9Ein Hod 167-9Ein Kinya 246Ein Zivan 244electricity 404Elijah’s Cave 157-8embassies 405emergencies 19
language 422, 424En Avdat National Park 310environment 392-6environmental issues
395-6Ethiopian Jews 364etiquette
clothing 74, 411events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 19
FFatah 357, 359, 360, 380Fayyad, Salam 375felafel 368, 370festivals & events 22-5,
370-1Armenian Genocide
Remembrance Day 23Christmas (Orthodox) 22Christmas (Western) 25Easter 23Eid al-Adha 25Eid al-Fitr 24Gay Pride Parade 24Good Friday 22, 23Hanukkah 25Holiday of the Holy
Days 25Holocaust Memorial
Day 23International Labour
Day 23Islamic New Year 25Israel Festival 24Israel Independence
Day 23Lag BaOmer 24Land Day 22Leilat al-Mi’raj 23Lights in Jerusalem 86Mimouna 23Naksa Day 24Naqba Day 24New Year’s Day 22Oktoberfest 25Palestinian Prisoners
Day 23Passover 22Prophet’s Birthday 25Purim 22Ramadan 24Rosh HaShanah 24Shavuot 24Simhat Torah 25Sukkot 25Tish’a B’Av 24Tu Bishvat 22Yitzhak Rabin Memorial
Day 25Yom HaZikaron 23Yom Kippur 25
film festivals 86films 344, 390First Intifada 358First Lebanon War 357Five Pillars of Islam, the
385Flavius, Josephus 348folk music 388
food 368-72, 405festivals & celebrations
370-1halal 369kosher 369language 422, 424price ranges 405
football 139, 344fortresses & palaces, see
also archaeological sites; ruins
Banias Nature Reserve palace complex 246
Cave Fortress 208Citadel Park 226Crusader fortress 199Herodium 260, 262Hisham’s Palace 268Masada 12, 296-8,
348, 12Nimrod Fortress 10,
246, 10Freedom Theatre 277
GGalilee, Lower 37, 183-208,
184, 192-3climate 183highlights 184planning 183travel seasons 183
Galilee, Upper 37, 220-40, 222
climate 220highlights 222planning 220travel seasons 220
Gamla Nature Reserve 243-4
Gangaroo Animal Park 200gay travellers 373, 405
festivals 24, 123Jerusalem 97Tel Aviv 138
Gay Pride Parade 24Gaza City 283-4Gaza Strip 37, 279-84, 280
history 280-2travel to/from 281
goats 311Golan Heights 10, 37, 240-
8, 222, 10highlights 222planning 220
government 377-81Great Jewish Revolt 348Greek Orthodox Church of
the Annunciation 187Grossman, David 386
HHaaretz 399Hadrian 348Haifa 36, 149-66, 149, 151,
152-3accommodation 148,
158-60activities 158climate 148courses 158drinking & nightlife
162-3entertainment 163festivals 158food 148, 160-2highlights 149planning 148shopping 163sights 150-8tourist information 164travel seasons 148travel to/from 164-6travel within 166
Hamas 344-5, 360-1, 379-81
Hamat Gader 219Hanukkah 25Haredim 74headcoverings 383health 418-20
books 419insurance 406
heat exhaustion 419Hebrew 123, 421-3Hebron 272-4Herod the Great 348, 349Herodium 260, 262Herod’s Gate 53Herzl, Theodor 353Herzliya 144-5Hezbollah 360Hezekiah’s Tunnel 67High Place of Sacrifice
332hiking 20, 247, 403-4
Arbel National Park 208Banias Nature Reserve
246Bethsaida 215Coexistence Trail 232Dead Sea 285desert hikes 324-5Desert Plateau Hikes
290Ein Gedi 288En Avdat National Park
310Israel National Trail 240Jesus Trail 188
432
IND
EX H-K
hiking continuedKinneret Trail 216Masada 297Meshushim (Hexagons)
Pool 243Mitzpe Ramon 314Mt Meron Nature
Reserve 231Mt Sodom 300-1Mt Tabor 196Mt Tzfachot Circular
Trail 324Nahal Iyyun Nature
Reserve 238Nakhal Gishron 329Negev region 317Neot HaKikar 301New Upper Yehudiya
Canyon Trail 243Petra 333safety 247, 290, 328Swamp Trail 236Upper Zavitan Canyon
Trail 243Wadi Arugot 290Wadi Bokek 298Wadi Daraja 293Wadi David 289Yehudiya Nature Reserve
242historic buildings
Bet Gabriel 217Khan al-Umdan 177Muqata’a 263-4
historic sitesAncient Galilee Boat 209Atlit ‘Illegal’ Immigrant
Detention Camp 167Cardo 173Cardo Maximus 60-1City Walls (Akko) 176Herodian Amphitheatre
& Bathhouse 173Independence Hall 114Knights Halls (Akko) 176Manger Square & Old
City 255Mauristan 58Nabi Musa 268, 270Old City Jaffa 118, 133Pool of Al-Anazia 146Promontory Palace 173Ramparts Walk 54Roman Theatre 173Rosh Pina Pioneers
Restoration Site 234
Shouting Hill 247Wadi Qelt 268White Tower 147Yerushalayim Street 226
history 346-611948 Arab-Israeli War 44,
84, 146, 251, 355Battle of Ein Jalut 201books 351, 354British mandate 44, 73,
97, 150, 280, 353-4Byzantine Empire 350Christianity 351Crusades, the 350-1First Intifada 358First Lebanon War 357Great Jewish Revolt 348Hamas control 344-5,
360-1, 379-81Hasmonean dynasty 348Hellenistic period 347Holocaust, the 349, 354,
355, 382Islam 350-1Oslo Accords 358-60,
379Ottoman Empire 351-3Palestine, partitioning
of 354-5prehistory 346-7Roman Empire 348-50Second Intifada 359Six Day War 356Yom Kippur War 356Zionism 123, 352, 353,
354hitching 416Holocaust, the 23, 382
history 349, 354, 355memorials 80-1, 181
horse riding 215, 245, 336Hula Valley 236-7hummus 368
Iibexes 16, 154, 219, 245,
288, 310, 16ice skating 238immigration 410Incense Route – Desert
Cities 308insect bites & stings
419-20insurance 406internet access 406internet resources 19
environmental 396health 418
irrigation 394
Islam 350-1, 384-5Israel Defense Forces
(IDF) 374Israel Festival 24Israel Independence
Day 23Israel Museum 16, 79-80,
17, 83itineraries 26-9
JJaffa (Yafo) 118, 127-8, 135-
6, 138, 140-1, 119, 133Jalameh 261Janco, Marcel 389Jenin 194, 277-8Jericho 266-72Jerusalem 36, 40-102,
42-3, 103-4, 82-3accommodation 40,
87-92Armenian Quarter 63-5children, travel with 86Christian Quarter 54-8City Centre 73-5, 89-90,
93-5, 96-8, 76-7climate 40courses 85drinking & nightlife 96-8East Jerusalem 69-73,
88-9, 93, 99Ein Kerem 81-5entertainment 53, 98festivals & events 86-7food 40, 92-6German Colony 77-8, 91,
95, 98Givat Ram & Museum
Row 79-80, 96Har Hazikaron 80-1highlights 42-3history 41, 44-5internet resources 100itineraries 45Jaffa Gate 52-4Jewish Quarter 58-62Kidron Valley 66-8King David (David
HaMelekh) Street 75-7Mamilla & Yemin Moshe
90, 95Mea She’arim 73-5Mount of Olives 68-9Muslim Quarter 62-3Nahla’ot 75New City 99Old City 45-52, 87-8,
92-3, 96, 98-9, 46-7, 82
planning 40
Rehavia 78-9, 91Romema & Mekor
Baruch 91-2safe travel 99-100shopping 98-9sights 45-85Talpiot 79tourist information 100tours 85-6travel seasons 40travel to/from 101travel within 101-2
Jerusalem Hills region 100Jerusalem Syndrome 60Jesus of Nazareth 348, 350Jesus Trail 188Jewish peoples
Ashkenazim 349, 363Ethiopian Jews 364Mizrahim 363-4Sephardim 349, 362
Jewish settlements 253, 345
Jezreel Valley 198-201Jezreel Valley Railway 218Jish 232-3Jisr az-Zarka 170-1Jordan 332
border crossings 31-2Jordan River 239Judaism 374, 382-3
ultra-Orthodox 74, 374, 375, 383
KKabbalah 352Kafr Kana 194-5Katzrin 240-2kayaking 239Kfar Kama 197-8Kfar Kisch 197Kfar Tavor 196-7Khan Younis 284kibbutzim 318, 373
accommodation 402Ein Harod 200Ein Zivan 244Kibbutz Ein Gedi 289,
291Kibbutz Ketura 318Kibbutz Lohamei
HaGeta’ot 181Kibbutz Lotan 319Kibbutz Neot Semadar
317Kibbutz Sde Boker 309Merom Golan 245volunteering 411
King David 65, 346
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
433IN
DEX K
-MKing Solomon 346-7Kiryat Shmona 237Kishon, Ephraim 390Knesset 80, 377-8Knights Halls (Akko) 176Korazim National Park
214-15
LLadino 123, 362Lakiya 309land crossings 30-3languages 18, 421-4
Arabic 423-4courses 85, 122, 158Hebrew 123, 421-3Ladino 123, 362Yiddish 74, 123, 363,
364Last Supper 65Latrun 104Law of Return 363legal matters 406Leishmaniasis 418lesbian travellers 373, 405
festivals 24, 123Jerusalem 97Tel Aviv 138
Lights in Jerusalem 86literature 386-7Little Petra 342lookouts 228, 238, 244
High Place of Sacrifice 332
Makhtesh Ramon 313Mt Sodom 300Quneitra Viewpoint 244
Lot’s Wife 300Lower Galilee, see Galilee,
Lowerluggage 408
MMa’alot Olei HaGardom
228Maccabee, Judah 347Mahane Yehuda Market
73, 82Majdal Shams 247-8Makhtesh HaGadol 312Makhtesh HaKatan 312Makhtesh Ramon 16,
312-16, 16makhteshim 312malls 140, 300, 327-8Mamshit 308maps 406Mar Saba Monastery 262
markets 17, 140, 17Akko Souq 177Bedouin Market 307Bethlehem souq 255Carmel Market 110Flea Market 118, 163Levinsky Spice Market
114Mahane Yehuda Market
73, 82Old Port Farmers Market
115Souq al-Qattanin 63Turkish Market 163
Masada 12, 296-8, 348, 12Mea She’arim 73-5measures 411media 272, 399medical services 418, 420Megiddo 174Meir, Golda 357, 377Merom Golan 245Metula 237-8Metzukei Dragot 293Mey Kedem 170Middle East Respiratory
Syndrome 418-19Midreshet Ben-Gurion 309military service 374minefields 241, 400Mineral Beach 293Mini Israel 104missiles, see rocketsMitzpe Ramon 312-16, 313Mizrahim 363-4mobile phones 18, 408Mohammed, prophet 350,
384-5monasteries, see
also churches, basilicas & chapels
Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 167
Ethiopian Monastery 58Latrun Monastery 104Mar Saba Monastery
262Monastery of the
Cross 80Monastery of the
Qurantul 267St George’s Monastery
268Stella Maris Carmelite
Monastery 157money 18, 19, 406-7moneychangers 407Montfort 181-2Moshav Amirim 231-2
mosquesAl-Amari Mosque 204Al-Aqsa Mosque 49, 51,
60, 68, 84, 350, 51Al-Bahr Mosque 203Al-Jarina Mosque 156Al-Jazzar Mosque 176-7Al-Kebir Mosque 274Great Mosque 147Hassan Bek Mosque 118Ibrahimi Mosque 273,
213Istiqlal Mosque 156Masjid Jenin al-Kabir 277Mosque of Omar 257Mosque of the Ascen-
sion 68White Mosque 188
mosquitoes 419motorcycle travel 414-16Mount of Olives 68-9Mount of the Beatitudes
15, 209-14, 15mountain biking 236, 301,
314, 403Mt Avital 244Mt Bental 245Mt Eleazar 297Mt Gerizim 276Mt Gilboa 199Mt Hermon 248Mt Shlomo 329Mt Sodom 300-1Mt Tabor 196museums 111, see also art
galleriesAaronsohn House NILI
Museum 169Acre Underground
Prisoners Museum 177Alone on the Walls
Museum 61Be’er Avraham 306Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot
181Ben-Gurion Museum 115Ben-Gurion’s Desert
Home 309Bialik Museum 110Bible Lands Museum 80Burnt House 61Circassian Heritage
Center 197Citadel (Tower of David)
52-3, 82Clandestine Immigration
& Naval Museum 157Clore Garden of Science
144Design Museum Holon
126
Eretz Israel Museum 120First Aliya Museum 169Galil Nature Center 239Golan Archaeological
Museum 241Haganah Museum 111Haifa City Museum 155Haifa Museum of
Art 155HaMeiri Museum 223Hammam al-Pasha 176Hecht Museum 156Heichal Shlomo Museum
75Herodian Quarter
Museum 61Herzl Museum 81History Museum (Rison
LeZion) 143IDF History Museum 111Israel Children’s Museum
125Israel Museum 79-80,
17, 83Israeli Air Force Museum
307, 309Jabotinsky Institute 111Janco-Dada Museum
168Kibbutz Sdot Yam
Antiquities Museum 173
LA Mayer Museum for Islamic Art 78-9
MadaTech 155Maine Friendship House
111-14Mané-Katz Museum 153Masada Museum 296Museum of Art, Ein
Harod 200Museum of Bedouin
Culture 307Museum of Hungarian
Speaking Jewry 228Museum of Italian Jewish
Art 75National Maritime
Museum 157Nisco Museum 168Okashi Art Museum 177Old Bethlehem Museum
257Old Railway Station 115-17Open Museum of
Photography 237Palmach Museum 111Ramla Museum 146-7Ramon Visitor Centre
313Rockefeller Museum 72
434
IND
EX M-S
museums continuedTikotin Museum of
Japanese Art 153Treasures in the Wall
Museum 176Weizmann House 144Yad Layeled Children’s
Memorial Museum 181Yad Vashem 80-1Yitzhak Rabin Centre 120
music 387-8music festivals
Eilat Chamber Music Festival 325
Israel Festival 24Israeli Opera Festival 24Isrotel Classic Music
Festival 325Jacob’s Ladder 214Jerusalem International
Oud Festival 87Jerusalem Sacred Music
Festival 86Red Sea Jazz Festival
24, 325Tsfat Klezmer Festival
24, 229Muslim peoples 364-5
NNabataeans 308, 348Nabi Musa 268, 270Nablus 17, 274-7, 275,
17, 274Nahal Iyyun Nature
Reserve 238Nahariya 181Naqba, see 1948
Arab- Israeli Warnational parks 395, see
also nature reserves; parks & gardens
Akhziv National Park 182Apollonia National
Park 145Arbel National Park 208Beit She’an National
Park 198Caesarea National
Park 172En Avdat National Park
310Korazim National Park
214-15Kursi National Park 218Mamshit National Park
308
Megiddo National Park 174
Qumran National Park 292
nature reserves, see also national parks; parks & gardens
Banias Nature Reserve 246
Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 288-9
Gamla Nature Reserve 243-4
Hula Nature Reserve 236Majrase Nature Reserve
218Mt Bental 245Mt Meron Nature
Reserve 231Tel Dan Nature Reserve
238Yehudiya Nature Reserve
242Nazareth 14, 184-94,
186-7, 14Nebuchadnezzar 347Negev 16, 38, 303-29,
304, 16climate 303highlights 304planning 303travel seasons 303
Neot HaKikar 301-2Netanya 145-6Netanyahu, Binyamin 283,
344, 361, 378Neve Ativ 246-7newspapers 399nightlife 21Nimrod 247Nimrod Fortress 10,
246, 10
OOdem 245-6opening hours 407-8, see
also ShabbatOslo Accords 358-60, 379Ottolenghi, Yotam 94, 131Ottoman Empire 351-3Oz, Amos 386
PPalace of the Lady Tunshuq
63parks & gardens, see also
national parks; nature reserves
Agamon HaHula 236Avital Volcanic Park 244
Baha’i Gardens (Akko area) 180
Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 150-3, 12
Botanical Garden of Eilat 321
Citadel Park 226Ein Gedi Botanical
Garden 289Gan Ha’Em 153Gan Meir Park 125Garden of Gethsemane
69Hamat Tveriya National
Park 203-4Israel Museum Art
Garden 80Neot Kedumim Park 104Park HaYarkon 121-2Timna Park 317-18
passports 410Israeli stamps 33
peace 344-5pelicans 236, 321Petra 13, 38, 330-42, 331,
334-5, 13, 340-1accommodation 330climate 330food 330highlights 331history 331itineraries 333planning 330travel seasons 330travel to/from 331-2
Petra by Night 336phonecards 409planning 18-19, see also
individual regionsborder crossings 30-3budgeting 19calendar of events 22-5children, travel with 34-5internet resources 19Israel & the Palestinian
Territories basics 18-19
itineraries 26-9regions 36-8travel seasons 18
poetry 357, 386politics 377-81
books 380Palestinian Authority 379
Pool of Al-Anazia 146Pool of Bethesda 62population 345, 362-7postal services 408‘price tag’ attacks 345protests 400
QQalandia 261Qalqilya Park 278Qumran National Park 292Quneitra Viewpoint 244
Rrabies 419Rabin, Yitzhak 358-9Rachel’s Tomb 257radio 399Rafah 284rafting 239Ramadan 24, 258Ramallah 262-5, 263Ramat Dalton 233-4Ramla 146-7, 147Rav-Kav Smart Card 101Red Sea Jazz Festival 24refugee camps 259, 356,
357religion 345, 373, 374,
382-5, see also individual religions
books 384religious calendars 23religious services 84religious sites 21, 210-13,
see also individual sitesAri’s Mikveh 226Inn of the Good
Samaritan 269Mount of Temptation 267Qasr al-Yahud 268Rachel’s Tomb 257Yardenit 217
Rishon LeZion 143Rivlin, Reuven 378rockets 237, 360, 399Roman Empire 348-50Rosh HaNikra Grottoes 182Rosh Pina 234-5rowing 204ruins 15, 15, see also
archaeological sites; fortresses & palaces
Al-Beidha 342Hisham’s Palace 268Little Petra Siq 342Tel al-Sultan (Ancient
Jericho) 267
SSabbath, see ShabbatSadat, Anwar 356safe travel 247, 290,
398-400, 404Eilat 328hiking 247, 290, 328
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
435IN
DEX S
-Thitching 416rockets 237, 360, 399minefields 241, 400sinkholes 290West Bank 251
Safed, see TsfatSaladin 351Samaritan people 366Sarona 120Schindler, Oskar 65-6sculpture 389Sde Boker 309-12Sea of Galilee 15, 37, 183,
206, 208-19, 184, 15, 193
beaches 215cycling 204highlights 184, 184Kinneret trail 216water level 206
Second Intifada 359security 398-9separation wall 267, 271Sephardim 349, 362Shabbat 382, 407
driving 414foods 369-70Haifa 159Jerusalem 91Tel Aviv 124, 128
shakshuka 136shared taxis 416Shepherds’ Field 260sheruts 416Shivta (Subeita) 308shopping
language 422, 424malls 140, 300, 327-8
Shouting Hill 247Shrine of Baha’ullah 180sinkholes 290Siq 332Siq al-Barid (Little Petra)
342Six Day War 356skiing 248snake bites 420snorkelling, see diving &
snorkellingsoap factories 274-5soccer 139socialism 373Sodom 300-1Solomon, King 346-7Solomon’s Pools 262Soreq Cave 103souqs, see marketsspas 177, 204, 219, 291,
299
sporting eventsCycling Tel Aviv 124Ein Gedi International
Semi-Marathon 302Mt Sodom International
Bike Race 302Tel Aviv Marathon 123-4
springsBanias Nature Reserve
246Hamat Gader 219Mary’s Well 188Tel Dan Nature Reserve
238Tsfat 226
St Stephen’s Gate (Lions Gate) 53, 62
storks 236street art 256, 271Süleyman the Magnificent
351swimming 231, 9, 294-5
see also beachesDead Sea 298, 299Ein Feshka (Einot
Tsukim) 292Gordon Swimming
Pool 122Meshushim (Hexagons)
Pool 243safety 299Tiberias 204
synagogues 20Abuhav Synagogue 223Ades Synagogue 75ancient synagogue
(Jish) 232Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue
223Beit Alpha Synagogue 199Beit She’arim 165Capernaum 214Caro Synagogue 223Eliahu Hanavi Talmud
Torah Congregation 61Emtza’i (Middle)
Synagogue 61Great Synagogue
(Rishon LeZion) 143Hadassah Medical
Centre, Ein Kerem 84Har El 84Hurva Synagogue 62Istanbuli Synagogue 61Kol HaNeshama 84Moreshet Yisrael 84Qahal Qadosh Gadol 61Rabban Yokhanan Ben
Zakai Synagogues 61Sephardic Ari Synagogue
223
Shira Hadasha 84Tomb of the Patriarchs
273, 213Syrian Civil War 245
TTabgha 209, 213taxis 416Taybeh 266Tel al-Sultan (Ancient
Jericho) 267Tel Arad National Park 305Tel Aviv 15, 36, 105-44,
106, 145, 5, 10, 15, 132-3
accommodation 105, 124-8
children, travel with 125City Centre 109-10, 124,
128-9, 139climate 105courses 122drinking & nightlife 136entertainment 138-9festivals & events 123-4food 105, 128-36HaYarkon Park & Ramat
Aviv 118, 120highlights 106history 107-9internet resources 141itineraries 109Jaffa (Yafo) 118, 127-8,
135-6, 138, 140-1, 119, 133
North City Centre 116-17planning 105safe travel 141shopping 139-41sights 109-20South City Centre 110-14,
125-6, 129-34, 137, 140, 112-13
Tel Aviv Beach & Port 115-18, 127, 134-5, 137-8
tourist information 141tours 122travel seasons 105travel to/from 141-2travel within 121, 142-4
Tel Aviv Museum of Art 110, 133
Tel Hatzor 235-6telephone services 18,
408-9Temple Mount 9, 47-52,
348, 349, 350, 50-1theatre 388-9Tiberias 201-8, 202, 193
time 409tipping 407Tomb of the Rashbi 234tombs & burial sites
Bahji House 180Ben-Gurion Graves 310Garden Tomb 72-3King David’s Tomb 65Kinneret Cemetery 217Oskar Schindler, grave
of 65Royal Tombs 332Street of Facades 332Tomb of Jehoshaphat 67Tomb of Rabbi Akiva 203Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al
HaNess 203Tomb of Rabbi Yohanan
ben Zakkai 203Tomb of the Lady
Tunshuq 63Tomb of the Rambam
203Tomb of the Rashbi 234Tomb of the Virgin
Mary 69Tomb of Turkan Khatun
63Tomb of Zechariah 68Tombs of Shamaiya and
Avtalion 232Tombs of the Kabbalists
226Tombs of the Prophets
68-9Yasser Arafat, grave
of 264tourist information 409tours 416-17Tower of David (Citadel)
52-3, 82train travel 417
Jezreel Valley Railway 218
transportlanguage 423, 424
travel advisories 398travellers cheques 407travel to/from Israel & the
Palestinian Territories 412-13
travel within Israel & the Palestinian Territories 413-17
Treasury (Al-Khazneh) 13, 332, 13
Tree of Zacchaeus 267Tsfat (Safed) 13, 221-31, 13
accommodation 229courses 228entertainment 230
436
IND
EX T-Z
Tsfat continuedfestivals 229food 229-30history 221sights 221-8tours 228-9travel to/from 231
Tsfat Klezmer Festival 24Tunick, Spencer 293tunnels 375tzimmerim 401Tzipori 195
UUnesco World Heritage
sites, see World Heritage sites
Upper Galilee, see Galilee, Upper
Vvegetarian food 369Via Dolorosa 56-7, 57viewpoints, see lookoutsvisas 18
Israel 409-10Jordan 410
visual arts 389-90volunteering 410-11vultures 244
WWadi Arugot 290Wadi Daraja 293Wadi David 289Wadi Meshushim 242Wadi Musa 336-42, 338
Wailing Wall, see Western Wall
walking toursChurch of the Holy
Sepulchre 55Via Dolorosa 57
water 393-4, see also drinking water
water parksDolphin Reef 322Gai Beach Water Park
204Meymadion Water
Park 125water sports
Eilat 323-4Tiberias 204
waterfalls 243, 244, 246, 293
weather 18, see also indi-vidual regions
weights 411Weizmann Institute of
Science 144West Bank 37, 249-78,
250, 260accommodation 257-8climate 249, 252food 258-9highlights 250history 251-2itineraries 255planning 249safe travel 251, 399-400tours 252travel seasons 249travel to/from 252-3
Western Wall 10, 59, 11wetlands 394-5
wi-fi 406wildflowers 243, 393wildlife reserves
Bio Ramon 313Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature
Reserve 318International Birding &
Research Center Eilat Park 321
windsurfing 122, 404wine 20, 86, 371wineries 233, 310, 372
Adir Winery 233Bahat Winery 244Boker Valley Vineyards
Farm 310Carmel Winery 169Carmey Avdat Winery
310Dalton Winery 233Golan Heights Winery
241Jerusalem Hills 100Odem Mountain Winery
245Sde Boker Winery 310Tabor Winery 196Taybeh Winery 266Tishbi Winery 169-70
wire transfers 407women in Israel 374-5women in the Palestinian
Territories 376women travellers 411work 411World Heritage sites
Acre (Old City) 176Baha’i Gardens 150-1,
180-1
Caves of Maresha & Beit-Guvrin 103
Church of the Nativity 16, 255, 212
Incense Route – Desert Cities 308
Masada 12, 296-8, 348, 12
Petra 13, 42, 330-42, 331, 334-5, 13, 340-1
Tel Aviv (White City) 15, 108, 15
Tel Be’er Sheva 309Tel Hatzor 235-6Tel Megiddo 174
YYad Vashem 80-1Yafo, see JaffaYehoshua, AB 386Yehudiya Nature Reserve
242-3Yiddish 74, 123, 363, 364Yiddishpiel 389Yom Kippur War 356
ZZiad, Tawfiq 386Zichron Ya’acov 169-70Zion Gate 53Zionism 123, 352, 353, 354zoos 278
Gangaroo Animal Park 200
Haifa Educational Zoo 154
Hamat Gader 219
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
437N
OTES
438
NO
TES
439
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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