623

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Gabriela Bosak, Eduardo Brito, Enrique de Larminat, Catherine Deschoenmaeker, Marjet Docter, Angelika Fenner, Jonathan Freeman, Micha George-McFarlane, Steffie Hendrix, John Jenkins, Vanessa Jones, Wancy Lam, Lone and Ronald Larsen, Tim Laslavic, Gabriela Las Heras, Bas de Lege, Alessandra Luppi, Margaret McAspurn, Christina Mønsted, Hugh Mullan, Guy Nicholson, Michael Perrett, Jonathan Schor, Ward Servaes, Brian Short, Carina Soderlund, Bob Stanley, Michael Stuber, John Tenny, Mark Tincombe, Ellen van den Berg, Christine Wegmann, Daniëlle Wolbers, Natasha Wright

AUTHOR THANKS Sandra BaoI’m grateful for the support over the years from my excellent ex-commissioning editor Kathleen Munnelly – I’ll miss you. My co-authors were stellar and patient with all my demands, as usual. Also many thanks to Graciela and Silvia Guzmán, Lucas Markowiecki, Sylvia Zapiola, Madi Lang, Jed Rothenburg and Dan Perlman. Gustavo and Miriam were awesome for their companionship and opinions. Cariños to Elsa,

Jorge, Fung and David Bao and Daniel. Finally, lots of love to my husband, Ben Greensfelder.

Gregor ClarkMuchísimas gracias to countless Uruguayans, Argentines and resident expatriates who shared their local knowledge with me, especially Judy in Tandil, the Draghi family in Areco, María, Giuseppe and Tonino in Mar del Plata, Stefano, Emanuela and Gioele in Punta del Diablo, Miguel and Monica at El Galope, Rodney and Lucia at La Sirena, Gloria in Colonia and Alain in Montevideo. Above all, enormous thanks to Kathleen Munnelly, who ably guided this book through so many editions; we will miss her.

Carolyn McCarthyBig and heartfelt thanks go out to Sandra Bao, Lucas Vidgen, Estefanía, the Oszust family, Es-tancia la Oriental, Marcelo and Cecilia, Gaston, Alejandro and Frances, Astrid and Matías. Dedi-cated to the memory of gaucho Manuel Pardo, without whom the steppe is even emptier.

Andy SymingtonI owe thanks to many helpful people along the way: remise drivers, tourist office staff, gomeros and more. Special thanks to Sebastián Clerico, Douglas Tompkins, Carolina Morgado, Jorge Guasp, Mauricio Pagani, Laura Hoogen, Tim Laslavic and staff in several tourist offices. Huge thanks and un abrazo fuerte to Kathleen

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

624Munnelly. Thanks also to Sandra Bao and my fellow authors – Carolyn McCarthy in particu-lar and Lucas Vidgen for the author summit. Back home, thanks to my family for their support, and for various kindnesses to Álvaro Falcó Prieto, Mike Burren and Elena Vázquez.

Lucas VidgenThanks first and foremost to the Argentines for making a country that’s such a joy to travel and work in. In Mendoza, Charlie O’Malley and Adam Stern were a great source of informa-tion and general gossip. A huge shout out to Vicky Toledo for patient explanations and ever- welcome insights. Silvia Lareo-Vazquez and Martin Mendel helped fill in some serious blanks. And as always, thanks to Sofía and Teresa for being there, and for being there when I got back.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Iguazú falls, Iguazú National Park, Nigel Pavitt/AWL.

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Argentina guidebook was researched and written by Sandra Bao, Gregor Clark, Carolyn McCarthy, Andy Sym-ington and Lucas Vidgen. The previous edition was written and researched by the same authoring team. This guide-book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editor Kathleen MunnellyCoordinating Editors Katie O’Connell, Kristin OdijkSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designers Virginia Moreno, Wendy WrightSenior Editors Karyn Noble, Catherine NaghtenAssisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Judith Bamber, Janice Bird, Kate James, Jodie

Martire, Stephanie Ong, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographer Rachael ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Elin Berglund, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Genesys India, Jouve India, Elizabeth Jones, Alison Lyall, Wayne Murphy, Martine Power, Angela Tinson

625

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbra Pampa 255accommodations 598-9,

see also camping, estancias, individual locations

activities 34-8, 567, see also individual activities

addresses 602air travel 21, 610, 612alerce trees 437Alfonsín, Raúl 581Alta Gracia 300-3Aluminé 384Amaicha del Valle 266amusement parks 76Andean Northwest 48,

217-81, 218-19accommodations 217climate 217highlights 218-19national parks 217travel seasons 217

Andes, the 24, 217-81, 315-52, 591

Angastaco 236animals 25, 593-6, 434-5,

595, see also wildlife-watching, individual species

Ansilta 349Antarctica 499Antofagasta de la Sierra 272architecture 25area codes 21Área Natural Protegida

Punta Tombo 416art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 586-7, 588-9, see also

individual artsAtlantic Coast, the 48, 116,

134-49, 117

accommodations 116climate 116environment 591-2food 116highlights 117

ATMs 603

BBahía Blanca 148-9Bahía Bustamante 421Bajo Caracoles 444Balde 311-12Balneario El Cóndor 406Bariloche 16, 23, 34, 49,

355-62, 356, 16, 388, 389

Barreal 348bathrooms 607-8beaches 23

Costanera Norte 151Faro José Ignacio 556Mar del Plata 19,

139-46, 142Miramar 147Necochea 146Punta del Diablo 561, 552Punta del Este 551, 552,

528-9, 552-3beef 39, 41, 121, 542beer 42, 303Belén 272Bergoglio, Cardinal Jorge

Mario 573bicycle travel, see cyclingbika 241bird-watching

Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo 416-17

condors 307Laguna Llancancelo 343Parque Nacional Laguna

Blanca 393Parque Nacional Tierra

del Fuego 504, 500-1Reserva Provincial Esteros

del Iberá 18, 175Salta 224

boat travel 612, 613, see also cruises

Bolivia 246, 255books 572, 588-9border crossings 610-12

fees 609to Bolivia 246, 255to Brazil 201to Chile 250to Paraguay 216to Uruguay 182

Borges, Jorge Luis 143, 588Bosque Petrificado

Sarmiento 440Brazil 195, 200-202, 203,

207-210budget 21

accommodations 599food 39, 601

Buenos Aires 23, 47, 52-115, 54-5, 2, 7, 31, 64-5

accommodations 52, 82-8activities 77-8Barrio Norte 70-1, 68Belgrano 76budgeting 53children, travel with 77climate 52Congreso 63-6, 58-9courses 78-9drinking 94-8entertainment 99-107festivals & events 79-82food 14, 52, 53, 88-94, 14fútbol 77-8gay & lesbian

travelers 105highlights 54-5history 56internet access 109-10itineraries 57La Boca 67-70, 78Microcentro 56-62, 58-9nightlife 94-8Once 76-7orientation 53

Palermo 71-6, 72-3Puerto Madero 62-3Recoleta 70-1, 68Retiro 70, 68safe travel 110San Telmo 16, 66-7, 58-9shopping 107-9sights 56-77tourist information 110-11tours 79travel seasons 52travel to/from 111-12travel within 112-13

bus travel 612, 613, 615business hours 21, 605

Ccabañas 598Cabo Dos Bahías 418Cabo Polonio (Uruguay)

552, 559-61, 552Cabot, Sebastian 575Cacheuta 333Cachi 232-4Cafayate 236, 238caimans 593Calingasta 348Camarones 417camping 598canoeing, see kayaking &

canoeingCañon de Talampaya 280 Cañon del Atuel 341Capilla del Monte 301, 307capybaras 18, 593, 594, 595car travel 430, 613-15Carlos Paz 307Carmelo (Uruguay) 540-1Carnaval 26, 171, 180, 247,

520, 531, 27Carolina 313Cassidy, Butch 439Catamarca 269, 270cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

626

INDEX C

- F

cavesCaverna de Las Brujas

343Cueva de las Manos 444Cueva Del Milodón 479Inti Huasi 313La Rotunda 294Pali Aike Cave 473Parque Provincial

Ernesto Tornquist 132Caviahue 386Cayastá 164-5cell phones 20, 606-7Cementerio de la Recoleta

12, 71, 12Central Andes 49,

315-52, 316climate 315highlights 316national parks 315travel seasons 315wineries 315

Central Sierras 49, 282-314, 283, 297, 290-1

accommodations 282climate 282food 282 highlights 283travel seasons 282

Chaco, the 591chamamé 171, 586Che, see Guevara, Ernestochildren, travel with 45-6,

see also individual locations

Chile 507-8, 510-12border crossings to 250hiking 451

Chilecito 278Chos Malal 390churches & cathedrals

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar 71

Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján 120-1

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario 61-2

Capilla La Banda 263Catedral Basílica de

Nuestra Señora del Valle 270

Catedral Metropolitana 57

Convento de Santo Domingo 274-5

Iglesia Catedral 284, 291Iglesia, Convento y

Basílica de San Francisco 319-20

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús 285

Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción 76

Iglesia de Santa Teresa y Convento de Carmelitas Descalzas de San José 285

Iglesia de Yavi 256Iglesia Parroquial

Nuestra Señora de la Merced 301

Iglesia San Francisco 224

Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de Jesús de los Capuchinos 288

cinema 572, 589Circuito Chico 364climate 20, 26-8, see also

individual regionsclimate change 610climbing, see rock

climbing, ice trekkingClorinda 216coca 241Colón 181-3Colonia del Sacramento

(Uruguay) 535-40, 536Colonia Pellegrini 175-9Comodoro Rivadavia 418Concepción del Uruguay

180-1Concordia 184-5consulates 600-1Copahue 386Córdoba 15, 23, 49, 284-96,

286-7, 15, 291accommodations 289-92Centro 284-7climate 282courses 289drinking & nightlife 293 entertainment 294festivals & events 289food 292-3Nueva Córdoba &

Güemes 287-9shopping 294-5sights 284-9tourist information 295tours 289travel to/from 295-6travel within 296

cormorants 594Corona del Inca 279Correa, Difunta 348

Corrientes 170-4, 172Cosquín 296costs 21, 599, 601, 603-4courses 599, see also

language coursescredit cards 603Cristo Redentor 338Cruce de Lagos 365cruises 402, 454, 466, 492cuarteto 586-7Cueva de las Manos 444Cueva Del Milodón 479cuisine, see foodculture 584-5cumbia villera 586-7currency 20, see also

moneycustoms regulations 600cycling 22, 36-8, 612-13, 37

Bariloche 357Buenos Aires 77Esquel 429Puerto Iguazú 202Salta 225

Ddance 586-7, see

also chamamé, milongas, tango

de Mendoza, Pedro 575de Rosas, Juan Manuel

576-7deer 593-4dengue fever 601Dia de la Memoria 26Día de la Tradición 123Diaguita people 28, 275dinosaurs 394-6Dique Ullum 347disabilities, travelers with

569, 608diving & snorkeling 463,

462Puerto Madryn 402Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 16, 407

dog sledding 36Dolavon 416dolphins 411, 414, 434, 435drinks 42, see also wine

mate 44, 40, 129driving, see car travel

Eeconomy 572-3El Bolsón 366-9, 366El Calafate 397, 455-64,

456-7

El Cerrito 464El Chaltén 446, 447El Volcán 309 electricity 600electronics 606elephant seals 594embassies 600-1emergencies 21

Buenos Aires 109Mendoza 330Montevideo 532

environmental issues 178Esquel 429estancias 128-9, 598,

128-9Central Sierras 298, 302,

312, 314Patagonia 421, 429, 445,

455, 459Río Grande region 510Tierra del Fuego 502,

510Uruguay 533, 560

ethnic groups, see indigenous people

etiquette 585Eva Perón, see Perón, Evaevents, see festivals &

eventsEvita, see Perón, Evaexchange rates 21

FFalkland Islands 486-7,

580, 487Falklands War 579-80 festivals & events 26-8, see

also individual eventsfilm 27, 572, 589fishing 35-6

Bariloche 357-8Esquel 429Fiesta Nacional del

Salmón 417Junín de los Andes 383Mar del Plata 143Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares (North) 454Tierra del Fuego 511Villa la Angostura 371

Fitz Roy Range 13, 13flamingos 594fly-fishing, see fishingfolklore 296, 300, 586-7food 6, 14, 23, 39-44,

332, 40, 43, 128, see also individual locations

budgeting 601cooking courses 599

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

627IN

DEX F-L tipping 39vegetarian & vegan

travellers 44, 91football, see fútbolFormosa 216foxes 594Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil)

207-10, 208fur seals 594fútbol 77-8, 80-1, 520, 565,

585, 4-5, 80-1

GGaiman 414-16galleries, see museums &

galleriesGaltieri, Leopoldo 579-80Gardel, Carlos 28, 76, 586gardens 74gaucho culture 15, 28, 126,

176, 184, 15Fiesta Nacional de Doma

y Folklore 300literature 580Museo del Gaucho 519

gay travelers 105, 567, 601geography 590-6geology 590-3glaciers 466

Glaciar Perito Moreno 11, 464-6, 10-11, 463, 590

Glaciar Upsala 466tours 457Ventisquero Negro 364

Gobernador Costa 440Gobernador Gregores 446Gran Chaco, the 210-16Gualeguaychú Carnaval

180guanacos 594Guaraní people 193Guerra de las Malvinas

579-80Guevara, Ernesto 151, 302,

304-5, 572, 304-5

Hhealth 601-2hiking 13, 23, 34, 13, 501

see also ice trekking, mountaineering

Bariloche 355-7Barreal 349Caviahue 386Cerro Aconcagua 18,

336-8, 19Cerro Belvedere 370Cerro Catedral 364

Cerro Otto 364Cerro Piltriquitrón 369Huella Andina 432Iguazú Falls area 201La Cumbrecita 306Laguna Termal 391Pampa Linda 365Parque Nacional El

Rey 233Parque Nacional Lanín

379, 381, 382Parque Nacional Los

Alceres 438Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares (North) 452-4, 24, 595

Parque Nacional Monte León 425

Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas 312, 290

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 479-83

Parque Provincial Aconcagua 336-8

Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist 132

Puerto Williams (Chile) 507

Salta 225Tafi area 264Tierra del Fuego 506Tilcara 250Valles Calchaquíes 232W, the 480-1, 482-3

history 574-83Dirty War, the 579Falkland Islands 486Falklands War 579-80Guevara, Ernesto 151,

302, 304-5, 572, 304-5

independence 576indigenous people

574-6Perón, Eva 71, 75, 578-9,

580Spanish settlement

574-5hitchhiking 615holidays 605homestays 599horseback riding 225, 358,

370, 407, 454, 463, 483, 462

hostels 599hot springs & thermal

baths 183, 545Aguas Calientes 392Complejo Termal

Cacheuta 333

Complejo Termal Copahue 386

Complejo Termal Municipal 215

Termas de Fiambalá 274Termas de Río Hondo

267Huaco 351Huella Andina 432Humahuaca 253, 248

Iice trekking 454, 463, 466,

483, 463Iguazú Falls 11, 48, 195-210,

196, 11, 168, 198-9immigration 610indigenous people 211, 573,

574, see also individual groups

indigenous sites 266insurance 602, 614internet access 602Iruya 254-5, 248, 248Isla de los Pájaros 409Islas Malvinas, see Falkland

Islandsitineraries 29-33, 29, 30,

32, 33

Jjazz 28Jesuit missions 18, 186-95,

18Loreto 192-5Paraguay 190San Ignacio Mini 191,

168-9Santa Ana 192-5Yapeyú 186

Jesuit sites 285, 300, 301, 302

Jesuits, the 18Jesús María 300Juan José Castelli 214Jujuy 242-5, 243Jujuy Province 220-56,

220-1Junín de los Andes 382

Kkayaking & canoeing 16,

25, 38, 358, 402, 454, 463, 483

Kirchner, Cristina 572-3, 582-3

Kirchner, Néstor 582kiteboarding & kitesurfing

38, 135, 138, 350

LLa Cumbre 298-9La Cumbrecita 306La Lobería 406 La Paloma 557-8La Pedrera (Uruguay)

558-9, 552La Plata 118-20, 118La Polvorilla 226La Quiaca 255La Rioja 274, 276Laguna Brava 279Laguna de Castillos

(Uruguay) 561Laguna del Chancho 386Laguna Llancancelo 343Lagunas las Mellizas 374Lake District 49, 353-96,

354, 388-9accommodations 353climate 353food 353geography 592highlights 354national parks 355travel seasons 353

lakesLago Argentino 464Lago Buenos Aires 442Lago Deseado 512Lago Fagnano 508-9Lago Huechulafquen 381Lago Lácar 381-2Lago Lolog 381-2Lago Ñorquinco 381Lago Onelli 466Lago Quillén 381Lago Roca 467Lago Rucachoroi 381Lago Tromen 379

landscape 24language 20, 616-22language courses 599

Bariloche 358Buenos Aires 78-9Córdoba 289Mendoza 321Montevideo 520Rosario 154

Las Cuevas 338Las Grutas 406Las Leñas 17, 343Las Yungas 245-6, 264legal matters 602lesbian travelers 105,

567, 601lifestyle 584literature 572, 588-9

628

INDEX L- M

Litoral, the 591llama trekking 251llamas 594Llullaillaco 229Londres 273Los Antiguos 442Los Molles 343Los Penitentes 335Los Seismiles 274 Luján 120-2

MMagellanic penguins 434,

594, 24, 434Área Natural Protegida

Punta Tombo 416Bahía Bustamante 421Cabo Vírgenes 429Monumento Natural Los

Pingüinos 469Parque Nacional Monte

León 425Punta Arenas area 473Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 16, 406, 410

Maimará 252Malargüe 341malaria 601Malvinas War, see Falklands

Warmansions, see palaces &

mansionsmaps 602-3Mapuche people 28, 384,

387Mar Chiquita 138Mar del Plata 19, 139-46,

140, 19markets 16, 67, 108, 16mate 44, 40, 129measures 602media 602Mendoza 13, 33, 34, 49,

317-31, 318accommodations 326-7activities 320-1climate 315courses 321drinking & nightlife

328-9entertainment 329festivals & events 326food 327-8safety 330

shopping 329-30sights 317-20tourist information 330tours 321-6travel seasons 315travel to/from 330-1travel within 331

Menem, Carlos Saúl 581Mercedes 174-5Mercedes (Uruguay) 541-2Merlo 309Mesopotamia 591milongas 103, 104-5Mina Clavero 307-8Miramar 147missions, see Jesuit

missionsMitre, Bartolomé 577mobile phones 20, 606-7Mocovi people 211Molinos 235monasteries 161money 20-1, 22, 600,

603-4Monte Tronador 364Montevideo 515-34,

518-19, 522-3, 3accommodations 521-5activities 520climate 513courses 520drinking & nightlife

527-30entertainment 530-1festivals & events 520-1food 525-7itineraries 521shopping 532sights 515-20tourist information

532-3tours 520transport to/from 533-4transport within 534

Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados 423

mosques 76motorcycle travel 613-15mountain biking,

see cyclingmountaineering 23, 35,

232, 320, 355-7, 454mountains, see also

volcanoesCerro Aconcagua 18,

320, 336-8Cerro Belvedere 370Cerro Catedral 364Cerro Champaquí 306

Cerro Chapelco 379Cerro La Cumbrecita

306Cerro López 364Cerro Mercedario 349Cerro Otto 364Cerro Pan de Azúcar 296Cerro Perito Moreno 369Cerro Piltriquitrón 369Cerro San Bernardo 225Cerro San Lorenzo 445Cerro Tunduqueral 334Cerro Wank 306

museums & galleriesArchivo Museo Histórico

Municipal Roberto T Barili 142

Cabildo 57Cabildo & Museo Policial

244Capilla La Banda 263Casa de la

Independencia 257Casa del Marqués

Campero 256Casa Natal de Sarmiento

344Casa Padilla 257Casa Rivera 518Casapueblo 551 Centro Cultural del

Bicentenario 267Centro de Interpretacíon

Historico 455Centro de Interpretación

Molinos 235Colección de Arte Amalia

Lacroze de Fortabat 62

Complejo Museográfico Enrique Udaondo 121

Corbeta Uruguay 63Cripta Jesuítica 285Culturarte 243 EcoCentro 400Espacio de Arte

Contemporáneo 520 Fragata Sarmiento 63Fundación Artesanías

Misioneras 187 Fundación Proa 69Glaciarium 455Miniature Train Museum

307Molino de San Francisco

279Museo Antropológico

225Museo Argentino

de Ciencias Naturales 76

Museo Arqueológico 232, 237, 243, 250

Museo Arqueológico Adán Quiroga 269

Museo Beatle 66Museo Blanes 519Museo Casa Carlos

Gardel 76Museo Casa de Ernesto

Che Guevara 302-8Museo Cóndor Huasi 272Museo de Armas 70Museo de Arte

Contemporáneo Buenos Aires 67

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Rosario (MACRO) 154

Museo de Arte Eduardo Minnicelli 426

Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta 76

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco 70

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires 74

Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires 67

Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández 75

Museo de Arte Pre colombino e Indígena 518

Museo de Artesanías Tradicionales Folclóricas 170-1

Museo de Artes Decorativas 519-18

Museo de Artes Visuales 411

Museo de Bellas Artes 127

Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín 69

Museo de la Ciudad 61Museo de la Ciudad/

Museo de Bellas Artes 275

Museo de la Memoria 284

Museo de la Pasión Boquense 69

Museo de la Patagonia 355

Museo de la Policia Federal 62

Museo de la Vid y El Vino 237

Museo de los Andes 518Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

629IN

DEX M- P

Museo de Poesia 313Museo de Tierra del

Fuego 511Museo de Transporte 121Museo de Vino Santiago

Graffigna 344-5Museo del Bicentenario

57Museo del Cable carril

278Museo del Carnaval 515Museo del Fin del Mundo

492Museo del Fútbol 520Museo del Gaucho 519Museo del Hombre 274Museo del Hombre

Chaqueño 211Museo del Patrimonio 66Museo del Puerto 148Museo Etnográfico Juan

B Ambrosetti 61Museo Etnográfico y

Colonial Provincial 161Museo Evita 75Museo Figari 519Museo Folclórico Manuel

Belgrano 257Museo Folklórico 274Museo Fundacional 317Museo Gauchesco

Ricardo Güiraldes 123Museo Gurvich 519Museo Histórico de

Corrientes 171Museo Histórico de

Entre Ríos Martiniano Leguizamón 165

Museo Histórico de la Universidad Nacional de Córdoba 285

Museo Histórico del Norte 224

Museo Histórico Franciscano 244

Museo Histórico General San Martín 318-19

Museo Histórico Nacional 67

Museo Histórico Provincial 161

Museo Histórico Provincial Dr Julio Marc 154

Museo Histórico Provincial Marqués de Sobremonte 284

Museo Iberoamericano de Artesanías 287

Museo Jesuítico Nacional de Jesús María 300

Museo Judio de Entre Rios 184

Museo Las Lilas 123Museo Malvinas

Argentinas 426Museo Mapuche 382Museo Marítimo &

Museo del Presidio 492

Museo Mitre 62Museo Mundial del

Tango 62Museo Municipal

Carmen Funes 394Museo Municipal de

Arte Juan Carlos Castagnino 141

Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno 317-18

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes 154

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes Dr Genaro Pérez 285

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo 74

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales 520

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 71, 393

Museo Nacional del Petróleo 418

Museo Nacional del Teatro 66

Museo Naval 520Museo Naval y Marítimo

468Museo Paleontológico

Egidio Feruglio 411Museo Penitenciario 67Museo Primeros

Pobladores 375Museo Provincial de

Bellas Artes Emilio Caraffa 288

Museo Provincial de Ciencias Naturales y Oceanográfico 400

Museo Provincial Padre Jesús Molina 426

Museo Regional de Concordia 184

Museo Regional de Magallanes 468

Museo Regional Patagónico 418

Museo Regional Pueblo de Luis 411

Museo Regional Salesiano 469

Museo Rocsen 307Museo Temático de

Maquetas Tupac

Amaru 243Museo Torres García 519Museo Tradicionalista

Fuerte Independencia 126-7

Museo Xul Solar 75Museo y Mercado

Provincial de Artesanías 165

Museo y Taller Draghi 123

Museo Yámana 492Pajcha – Museo de

Arte Étnico Americano 224

Palacio del Mate 187 Parque Nacional Río

Pilcomayo 221Paseo del Buen Pastor

287music 586-7, see also

folklore, jazzchamamé 171, 586Festival de Música de

Verano 358Festival Nacional del

Folklore 296live music 105-6

Nnational parks, see parks &

reservesNecochea 146-8Neuquén 393newspapers 602nightlife 15, see also

individual locationsNortheastern Argentina 48,

150-216, 152-3, 168-9accommodations 150climate 150highlights 152-3national parks &

reserves 150travel seasons 150

OOktoberfest 303opening hours 21, 605orcas 16, 594

Ppalaces & mansions

Palacio Barolo 63Palacio de las Aguas

Corrientes 66Palacio Paz 70Palacio San José 180

paleontology 394Pampa Linda 364-6

Pampas, the 48, 116-49, 117accommodations 116climate 116food 116geography 591-2highlights 117

Papagayos 314paragliding 25, 38, 257,

298, 358Paraguay 216parasailing, see sailingParaná 165-70, 166Paraná Delta 154parks & reserves 596

Lake District 355Parque Archaeologico

Colo Michi-Co 392Parque General San

Martín 320 Parque Nacional

Bernardo O’Higgins 479

Parque Nacional Calilegua 245-6

Parque Nacional Chaco 215

Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil) 195-6, 200-2, 196

Parque Nacional El Leoncito 350

Parque Nacional El Palmar 183-4

Parque Nacional El Ray 233

Parque Nacional Iguazú 195-200, 196

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo 370

Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca 393

Parque Nacional Lanín 379-82, 380

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel 134

Parque Nacional Los Alerces 437-40, 438

Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes 370

Parque Nacional Los Cardones 232

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 452-5, 453, 24, 595

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 464-7, 465

Parque Nacional Monte León 425-6

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 362-6, 363, 389, 596

630

INDEX P

- S

parks & reserves continuedParque Nacional Pali

Aike 473-4Parque Nacional Perito

Moreno 444-6Parque Nacional

Quebrada del Condorito 307

Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo 216

Parque Nacional Santa Teresa 563-4

Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas 312

Parque Nacional Talampaya 279, 280-1

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 504-7, 505

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 479-86, 480, 482-3

Parque Provincial Aconcagua 336

Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist 132

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto 352

Parque Provincial Moconá 194

Parque Provincial Payunia 342

Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato 338

Patagonia 397Reserva Ecológica

Costanera Sur 62Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 16, 25, 406-11, 407, 16

Reserva Faunística Punta Loma 405

Reserva Los Huemules 448

Reserva Natural de Merlo 309

Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez 455

Reserva Natural Loro Hablador 214

Reserva Natural Ría Deseado & Parque Interjurisdiccional Marino Isla Pingüino 423

Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre 127

Reserva Provincial Esteros del Iberá 175-9

Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza 214

Reserva Provincial Parque Luro 133-4

Uruguay 562 parrots 175, 196, 406Paso de los Libres 185-7passports 610Patagonia 32, 50, 397-487,

398-9, 434-5accommodations 397climate 397geography 592highlights 398-9travel to/from 400travel within 400

Paysandú (Uruguay) 543-4Pehuenche people 392peñas 230penguins, see Magellanic

penguinsPenínsula Valdés 16, 25,

406-11, 407Perito Moreno 441-2, see

also glaciersPerón, Eva 71, 75, 578-9,

580Perón, Juan 577-9, 580photography 602Pinamar 135-7Piriápolis (Uruguay) 547,

552planning 20

activities 34-8basics 20-1budgeting 21calendar of events 26-8children, travel with 46food 39-44itineraries 29-33regions 47-50repeat visitors 22travel seasons 20websites 21

plants 594-6plazas, see squares &

plazaspolitics 572-3Pope Francis I 573population 573Porvenir (Chile) 510-12Posadas 187-91, 188postal services 605Potrerillos 333public holidays 605Puente del Inca 335Puerto Deseado 420Puerto Iguazú 202-7, 204Puerto Madryn 400-5, 401

Puerto Natales 474-8, 476-7

Puerto Pirámides 406Puerto San Julián 424Puerto Williams (Chile)

507-8Punta Arenas 468-73, 470Punta del Diablo (Uruguay)

561Punta del Este (Uruguay)

549-57, 550Punta Delgada 410Punta Flecha 406Punta Ninfas 406Punta Norte 410-11Purmamarca 247, 248,

249, 260

QQuebrada de Cafayate

241, 260Quebrada de Humahuaca

12, 246-55, 12, 248-9Quilmes 266

Rradio 602rafting 25, 38, 225, 321,

333, 349, 358, 367, 376Rawson 414refugios 598Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 16, 25, 406-11, 407, 16

reserves, see parks & reserves

Resistencia 210-15, 212rhea 594Río Gallegos 426, 427Río Grande 509-10Río Mayo 441Río Negro 406Río Paraná 151-79Río Uruguay 179-86rock art 313, 444rock climbing 25, 35, 463,

463Cerro Aconcagua 336-8Cordón de la Rameda

349Los Gigantes 294Mendoza 320-1Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares (North) 455Parque Nacional Nahuel

Huapi 364Rodeo 350Roque Sáenz Peña 215-16Rosario 151-61, 156-7

ruinsCastillo San Carlos 185Cayastá ruins 164-5El Shincal 273Pucará 250, 249

Ruta de los Siete Lagos 15, 372-3, 375, 372, 15, 372-3

Ruta Nacional 40 32, 344, 390, 430, 463, 32

Ssafety 605-6, see also

individual locationssailing 35, 437, 492Salinas Grandes 242salt plains 242 Salta 17, 23, 48, 221-31,

222-3, 17, 261Salta Province 220-56,

220-1Salto (Uruguay) 544San Agustín de Valle

Fértil 351San Antonio de Areco

122-5, 124San Antonio de los Cobres

241-2San Carlos 236San Clemente del Tuyú 135San Iganacio 191-2San José de Jáchal 350San Juan 344San Luis 308-14, 310San Marcos de las Sierras

299-300San Martín de los Andes

375, 376San Rafael 338, 339Santa Fe 161-4, 162Santa María 266Santa Rosa 132-3Santiago del Estero 267,

268scuba diving, see diving &

snorkelingsea lions 16, 434, 594, 435

Bahía Bustamante 421Cabo Dos Bahías 418Cabo Polonio 559Parque Nacional Monte

León 425Punta del Este 551Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 406-7

Seclantás 234senior travelers 600shopping, see markets,

individual locations

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

631IN

DEX S- W

Sierra de la Ventana 130-2skiing & snowboarding 17,

25, 36, 17, 37Bariloche 357Cerro Catedral 364Cerro Caviahue 386Cerro Chapelco 379Cerro La Hoya 430Cerro Perito Moreno 369Fiesta Nacional del

Montañés 379Las Leñas 343-4Los Penitentes 321, 335San Martín de los Andes

376 Ushuaia 493Villa la Angostura 370

skydiving 38smoking 602snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingsoccer, see fútbolsouthern right whale 16,

406, 408, 434, 434spas, see hot springs &

thermal bathssports 25, 585, see also

individual sportssquares & plazas

Plaza 25 de Mayo 161Plaza del Congreso 63Plaza Dorrego 66Plaza Muñoz Gamero

468Plaza San Martin 70Plaza San Martín 285Plaza Serrano 71

Stanley 486steak, see beefSt-Exupéry, Antoine 410surfing 142, 557, 559

TTacuarembó (Uruguay)

546Tafí del Valle 263Tandil 125-30tango 28, 99, 100-3, 104,

586, 27, 101-3courses 599Festival del Tango 521Museo Mundial del

Tango 62taxes 603-4taxis 615telephone services 20, 21,

606-7Thatcher, Margaret 579-80

theatersBuenos Aires 106Teatro Colón 63Teatro Juan de Vera 171Teatro Nacional

Cervantes 66Teatro Solís 515

theme parks 76thermal baths, see hot

springs & thermal baths

Tierra del Fuego 50, 488-512, 490-1, 500-1

accommodations 488climate 488food 488geography 593highlights 490-1transportation 489

Tigre 114-15Tilcara 250, 248time 20, 607tipping 39, 604Toba people 211toilets 607-8Tolhuin 508-9tourist information 608train travel 615

La Trochita 436Tren a las Nubes 226

travel to/from Argentina 21, 610-12

travel within Argentina 21, 612-15

trekking, see hikingTrelew 411, 412Tren a les Nubes 226Trevelin 433Tucumán 257, 258-9

UUquía 248, 253Uruguay 50, 513-70,

516-17, 528-9, 552-3accommodations 513,

566-7activities 567arts 566border crossings 182climate 513culture 565-6economy 564emergencies 514environment 566exchange rates 514festivals & events 531,

568food 513, 514, 566highlights 516

history 564-5itineraries 514language 514, 520money 514-27, 568politics 564population 565religion 565sports 565travel to/from 514,

569-70travel within 570visas 514, 569

Ushuaia 14, 23, 489-504, 494-5, 14, 500, 593

accommodations 495-8activities 492-3climate 488drinking 502-3entertainment 503festivals & events 495food 498-502history 489shopping 503sights 489-92tourist information 503tours 493-5travel to/from 503-4travel within 504

Uspallata 334

Vvacations 605Valle de Calingasta 347Valle de Conlara 313Valle de la Luna 352Valle de las Sierras

Puntanas 312-13Valle Edén (Uruguay) 547Valle Grande 341Valles Calchaquíes 232vegetarian & vegan

travelers 44, 91vicuña 594Videla, Jorge Rafael 579-81Villa General Belgrano

303, 307Villa Gesell 137-9Villa la Angostura 370Villa Pehuenia 385Villa Traful 374Villa Ventana 132Villavicencio 333-4visas 20, 569, 608volcanoes

Volcán Batea Mahuida 385Volcán Copahue 391Volcán Domuyo 392Volcán Lanín 379

volunteering 608-9

Wwaterfalls

Cañadón de los Espejos 549

Cascada Escondida 386Cascada Inayacal 371Cascadas de Arroyo

Blanco 374Coa Có 374Iguazú Falls 11, 48,

195-210, 196, 11, 168, 198-9

Salto del Penitente 548Salto Grande 482Saltos del Moconá 194

weather 20, 26-8websites 21, 53weights 602whales 16, 406, 408, 434,

594, 434whale-watching 407-8white-water rafting, see

raftingWichi people 211wildlife 25, 593-6, 434-5,

595, see also bird-watching, wildlife-watching, individual species

wildlife-watching 16, 18, 46, 559, see also bird-watching

Bahía Bustamante 421Iguazú Falls area 210Parque Nacional Lihué

Calel 134Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 16, 25, 406-11, 407, 16

Reserva Faunística Punta Lorna 405

Reserva Provincial Esteros del Iberá 175

Reserva Provincial Parque Luro 133-4

windsurfing 38, 350, 402, 520

wine 13, 25, 42, 95, 322-5, 13, 323, 324, 325

festivals 28, 326itineraries 33, 33tours 321-6

wineriesCafayate region 237Chilecito 279Colomé BodegaMaipú 332Mendoza region 315,

331-3Neuquén 393San Juan 347

632

INDEX W

- Z

wineries continuedSan Rafael 339Valle de Uco 337

women travelers 609work 609World Heritage sites

Alta Gracia 301-3Colonia del Sacramento

535-40, 536, 528Cueva de las Manos 444

Manzana Jesuítica 285Museo Jesuítico

Nacional de Jesús María 300

Península Valdés 16, 25, 406-11, 407

Quebrada de Humahuaca 246-55

Santa Catalina 302, 291W, the 480-1, 482-3

YYapeyú 186Yavi 256yellow fever 602Yupanqui, Atahualpa 586

ZZapala 390zoos

Güirá Oga 202Jardín Zoológico 74Parque des Aves 207Parque Zoológico 215

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

633N

OTES

634

NO

TES

635N

OTES

636

NO

TES

637N

OTES

638

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’