BEACONTREE HEATH ALLOTMENTS & GARDENS...

BEACONTREE HEATH ALLOTMENTS &

GARDENS ASSOCIATION

Beacontree Heath Allotment Starter Pack 1

Contents

1. WELCOME & INTRODUCTION................ 2

2. BENEFITS OF ALLOTMENTS.................. 4

3. 5-A-DAY & HEALTHY EATING ............... 4

4. CHOOSING BEACONTREE HEATH.......... 5

5. PLANNING YOUR SITE.......................... 6

6. PREPARING THE GROUND ................. 10

7. WHAT TO SOW.................................... 12

8. WHEN TO SOW & PLANT..................... 13

9. LOOKING AFTER YOUR CROPS........... 16

10. SEASONS............................................ 22

11. ORGANIC GARDENING........................ 24

12. CONTACTS & INFORMATION .............. 24

13. YOUR NOTES...................................... 27

14. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ....................... 28


1. Welcome & Introduction The allotment association at Beacontree Heath has been working hard to get more people using the site with help and financial support from: ! Age Concern Barking & Dagenham ! Groundwork East London ! London Borough of Barking & Dagenham ! Barking and Dagenham 5-a-day programme

We have also received funding from: ! Bridge House Trust ! Neighbourhood Renewal ! Barclays Site Saver ! Christabella Trust ! GBN Services ! Rotary Club

Improvements include a toilet, raised beds and paved areas to improve access for people in wheelchairs or who are less mobile. We have also organised events and publicity and came up with this pack to help get you started. We hope you find it helpful! Growing food can be easy. You do not need lots of space or knowledge. You will discover a lot as you go, so do not worry if you are not a ‘natural’ gardener. All you need to start is enthusiasm and a sunny & sheltered place with access to water.


The Allotment Association Everyone who has a plot is automatically a member of the Beacontree Heath Allotments Association. The Association is responsible for paying the rent of the site to the Council and insuring the site. The Association has a committee which has an Annual General Meeting once a year to elect a Chair, Treasurer and Secretary. Committee members are always needed to help with the running of the association as well as organising events and activities. If you would like to get involved or become a committee member contact one of the people below. Contacts Chair – Alan Thomas !: 01708 722 003 E: [email protected] Secretary – Ken Harman !: 020 8220 8069 !: 24 Fambridge Rd, Dagenham RM8 1 NS Treasurer – Charlie Tharale Committee Member – Dennis Riley Allotment Officer – Lynn Knowles !: 020 8227 3983 E: [email protected]


2. Benefits of allotments Allotments are good for many reasons but here are a few of the top ones: " They keep you active and get you outdoors " You can meet new people and learn new skills " You can grow lots of healthy fruit and vegetables to eat, cook and share with friends and family " You can also grow flowers or sit out and enjoy the site. 3. 5-A-Day & healthy eating

Fruit and vegetables are important for a healthier life style. Eating a variety of fruit and vegetables will give you plenty of vitamins and minerals such as folic acid, vitamin C and potassium. Fruit and vegetables are also a good source of fibre and other substances, such as antioxidants. Eating more fruit and vegetables may help reduce the risk of the two main killer diseases in this country - heart disease and some cancers.

The 5 a day message is to aim for at least 5 portions of a variety of fruit and vegetables a day. Fresh, frozen, chilled, canned, 100% juice, and dried fruit and vegetables all count but as a budding gardener it is hoped that you can get your 5 a day from your own allotment.


4. Choosing Beacontree Heath

Beacontree Heath has a lot to offer including: ! Full and half-size plots ! Small plots ! A disabled access toilet ! Raised beds ! A garden and seating area with herb pots Visit the site before you take on a plot to look around and chat with allotment holders. The plot-holders around you have an interest in your success as if your plot doesn’t work, it will revert to weeds. So do ask for advice, help and ideas!

Think about the amount of time and your ability so you can decide what size you think would suit your needs, and if you are not sure talk to the Allotment Association or read on! We also have some group run plots that you can get involved in if you’re not ready to do it alone!


5. Planning your site Traditionally food crops have been grown in long narrow plots which can be worked on from both sides, but you can design your plot however suits you. Plots and raised beds should be aligned so that the long length runs north-south. This way, the whole bed will receive sunshine during the day. Plant in rows east-west across the bed, with the tallest crops at the northernmost end so that they do not cast shadows over the other crops.

Planning your site can help with getting started. Here are some tips: ! Draw a plot plan. Think about what vegetables

you want to grow and where you will sow them. ! Think about basic plant groups: 1) Roots (e.g.

Carrots, Beetroot) 2) Brassicas (e.g. Cabbage, Broccoli) 3) Legumes (e.g. Beans, Peas) and Others (e.g. Salad crops). 4) Potatoes (If your plot large enough). Check out gardening books for more info on these groups.

! Work out a rotation plan (usually 3 years) to keep crops moving round the plot. Growing the same crop family in the same place each year it removes nutrients and can lead to disease and pests.

! Don't try to take on too much at once. The first year for any bed can be hard work but using your time to prepare and plan your plot pays off later.

! Keep a diary - find out what timings, crops and varieties work best for you.


Plot Plans

Sweetcorn

Onions

Radish

Lettuce

Runner Beans

Tomato

Turnips Carrots

Cauliflower Cabbage

Potatoes

Beetroot

Marrow

Broad Beans

Herbs


Herbs Flowers

Cane Fruit

Bush Fruit

Asparagus

Sweetcorn

Strawberries

Roots (Carrots etc)

Brassicas (Cabbage etc.)

Legumes (Beans, Peas) & Others

Potatoes

Crop Rotation

Small Allotment

Composter


Step-by-step

Here are steps to help out with planning your plot: Step 1 - set aside an area for a shed, compost heaps, water butt, children's flower space or for sitting; they're going to go in any shady areas, as it'll be harder to grow much there.

Step 2 - work out how much to set aside for permanent paths between each bed – along the length of the plot and across the plot.

Step 3 - set side space for any permanent beds - fruit bushes, asparagus, strawberries, herbs and rhubarb.

Step 4 - work out how many beds or squares you will have in the remaining space

Pots and containers Pots and containers can do much the same job as plots and raised beds and there is the added bonus that they can be moved. You can use:

! Terracotta pots ! Wooden boxes ! Half barrels ! Chimney pots

! Grow bags ! Hanging baskets ! Sinks/baths/troughs ! Old bin

Good drainage is essential. The soil depth should be at least 20cm over a layer of broken bricks, pots, tiles or stones. The container should have drainage holes.


6. Preparing the Ground

! Clear any rubbish ! Cut all the weeds down, and start

your compost heap. ! Prepare one or two beds at a time -

you can dig the land over, removing weeds and their roots. Add these to

your compost heap. ! Allow 2 or 3 days and when dry tread and rake

the soil surface

This may well be the hardest work you will ever do on the allotment. Prepare the beds well right at the start, and you will save time and effort in the future.

Digging tips

Digging is a key part of your preparation so here are some tips: " PACE YOURSELF - take it slowly. Don't overdo it. Better to do a couple of short turns regularly, than try a huge plot in one go! Especially at the beginning, when your muscles aren't used to the movements. " Adapt your style to the job! # Don't compromise on the depth of dig, but try different "slice" sizes, to avoid getting over-tired.! " Lots of information is available so either look up or ask someone else! " Enjoy your digging – it can be good for you!


Alternatives

Use a rotivator - but beware! The blades will chop each piece of weed into little pieces, most of which will grow a new plant; where you had one this year, next year you will have 100.

Use a chemical weed killer – it’s quicker but it's not organic, and you may need to dig over and remove the most stubborn weed roots. Herbicides are generally not plant specific and can be expensive.

Use a mulch Cover the beds with black plastic sheeting, old carpet (avoid carpet with the foam backing - it rots and flakes off into your bed), or layers of newspaper, weighted down and left for several months. The weeds die due to lack of sunlight!

Organic weed control by Removal of Individual Plants (RIP) A technique used by organic farmers with special tools which can be purchased from the Lazy Dog Tool Co. The tools are designed to remove thistles, dock, ragwort, nettles and young scrub without the need for repeated bending, heavy lifting or chemicals!


7. What to sow How do you decide what to grow? Growing things you

would like to eat is a good start as one of the greatest pleasures of

growing your own food is eating it afterwards.

! Grow potatoes to clear the soil of weeds ! Choose a small selection of the easier and more

reliable vegetables - peas, broad and French beans, beetroot, parsnips, onion and shallot sets, and leeks.

There are plenty of easy-to-grow food crops to choose from and seed packets always include details of sowing and harvesting times. Raised beds Root crops (e.g. carrots, beetroot, turnips and parsnips) are strong rooted and will withstand windy weather so are suitable. Salad crops such as lettuce, radish rocket, spinach and herbs such as basil and parsley are ground hugging and so also suitable.

Taller vegetables such as peas, beans, potatoes and tomatoes need more support so would be best grown at a low level and with some supporting canes.


8. When to sow & plant

Lots of information on when to sow is available and timing can also vary between varieties. It is always useful to look on the back of packets. You may also decide you would like to buy some as small plants.

You can start early by growing seeds in greenhouses or on window sills or by using cloches or cold frames, which are a cover of glass or plastic that can be bought from gardening stores or made. But remember this is just a guide; timing can change between years depending on how warm it is!

March - May

Our main sowing season is March to May. Do not plant too early as this may result in losing your seeds and young plants. Look around and ask experienced members for advice which they will happily provide.

Autumn

Some crops can be sown in the autumn. Examples are onions, beetroot, broad beans, carrots, cauliflowers, courgettes, early potatoes, early-sown peas, radish,

spring-onions, turnips and winter spinach.

Various vegetables can be sown in October for the spring season. These include Japanese onions, early cabbage. This will encourage you to attend the site in winter, and remember our climate is a lot warmer now!


Month What to Sow January Radishes under cloches outside. Tomatoes,

leeks and onions in heated greenhouse or windowsill.

February (Weather permitting) Peas, broad beans. Radish and turnips under cloches.

Start buying seed potatoes.

March Peak time for sowing broad beans, Brussels sprouts, leeks, onions, parsnips, early peas, Onions (sets and winter), Shallots, early Turnip, Potato (early).

Under cloches - celeriac, celery, tomatoes, cucumber. Under cloches summer cabbage and early carrot

Plant tomato and cucumber seedlings in greenhouse (or window ledge)

April Main month for outdoor sowing.

Broad beans, Beetroot, broccoli, summer cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, spinach, turnips, leeks and onion, summer radish, early turnip, potato (second early planted early, main crop planted late in month), parsnip, asparagus

Sow French Beans under cloches

May

French beans, runner beans, beetroot, carrots, outdoor cucumber, marrows, courgettes, mange-tout, spinach, Broccoli


(May cont.)

(sprouting & Calebrese), Winter Cabbage, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Summer Radish, Swede, Tomato (plant outdoors), Pumpkin, Spinach, Squash, Sweet corn

Finish sowing broad beans, summer and Winter cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower

Planting time for Brussels Sprouts, Celeriac, tomatoes in cold green house

June Mainly planting out rather than sowing although can continue successional sowing of lettuce, French bean and radishes

Finish sowing beetroot, carrots and Swedes.

Plant out broccoli, early potatoes, Brussels, sweet corn celery, leeks, courgettes, marrows, outdoor tomatoes and cucumbers

July Sow chicory, winter radish, and main-crop turnips.

Continue to plant lettuce and peas. Finish planting broccoli, winter cabbage, leeks.

August Sow winter spinach, short-rooted carrots, Japanese onions, winder radishes, main crop turnips salad onions.

Sept Rocket, Over-wintering Onions.

Sow lettuce under cloches

October Finish planting Spring Cabbage. Plant Garlic


9. Looking after your crops Watering Crops need loving care and attention. To get the best results for your efforts you should water them a little and often rather than soaking the crops weekly. Try to water before or after the midday sun when the ground will dry before the water can benefit the plants. Remember: - Water the soil not the plant - It is possible to drown or rot your plants with too

much water - Plants in pots and containers will dry out more

quickly than those in the ground - Plants should be fed occasionally, especially if

compost has not been incorporated into the soil. Weeding Weeding can seem like a tedious task, but it is essential as weeds will compete with your plants for light and nutrients. If you plant your vegetables in rows

you will learn to recognise the vegetable plants from the weeds.

One of the best ways to prevent weeds

from growing is not to let them flower as they will then drop seeds. If they are a root type of weed then it is best to dig them out as soon as you can.


You can also buy mulch, which is a covering of material that will protect the soil from drying out and will help prevent weed growth. Some mulch is organic, other is man-made:

! Mulch mats (lengths of material which you can cut to size and lie over the soil and around the plants)

! Leaf mould, wood chips, and compost are all mulches. They are laid thickly around the plants and will need to be renewed as they will biodegrade.

! Stone chippings and gravel can also work as mulches. They also discourage slugs and snails.

! Straw makes good mulch which does encourage earthworms and can then be turned into the soil as a green manure. Preferable to hay as it is seed free.

! Compost makes a very good mulch if you have enough spare, try for a 2-4 inch layer where needed.

Pests Many pests invade allotments such as slugs, caterpillars, whitefly, carrot fly and club root. However there are also many insects and plants which reduce the damage these agricultural pests have on crops such as nasturtiums, calendula, French marigold, hoverflies, bees and wasps.


French Marigolds: ! Discourage and kill vegetarian nematodes when

planted as a bed (not very effective when used as a border)

! Repel whitefly and confuse cabbage white butterflies when planted within or as border to Brassica crops

! Repel and confuse carrot fly ! Encourage hoverflies which feed on aphids

Nasturtiums ! Lure black fly away from broad bean crops ! Repel aphids from other crops ! Repel whitefly from Brassica crops Alternatives Traditional pest controls such as slug pellets are 5% poison and 95% bait, this means that they are only effective for 48hrs but continue to attract slugs to them for quite a while after this period. For more effective and wildlife friendly techniques " use beer/half grapefruit traps " hoe your patch regularly during spring and summer, " sprinkle eggshells around your patch " remove slug havens e.g. bits of plastic, scrap wood,

which provide them a cool, damp environment

Try attracting insects that can be an asset such as bees, solitary bees, lacewings and ladybirds. Solitary bee boxes can be

purchased from the Oxford Bee Company (see


contacts). Remember that introducing bought live insects to your garden is not advised. There is a possibility that you may buy non-native species which can upset the balance in your garden. Composting

Composting is essential to add nutrients back into the soil and will give excellent results. Many different techniques exist for composting material. In addition to traditional compost heats you can use

" teas made from nitrogen rich plants such as Borage, Nettles, Nasturtiums and Comfrey (Boking 14 recommended as less likely to become a weed problem)

" green manures (Phacelia, fodder radish and fenugreek are common plants used for this, which draw up nutrients from the sub soil and provide organic matter for top soil when they are dug in)

" worm composting.

For traditional compost heaps the key is getting the mix of carbon (stalks, stems and woody bits) to nitrogen (soft, green sappy stuff) right. Roughly there should be 20-30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.

Try to add in separate layers of about 6ins and watering each layer a little before adding the next.


From the Allotment and Kitchen " Most vegetables including Brassica heads and

leaves, and chopped Brassica stalks " Fresh Weeds - harvested BEFORE they set seed! " Flowers and Grass clippings (when fresh) " Fruit peels and wastes " Hay and Straw From Trees, Shrubs and Hedges

" Deciduous leaves (e g. oak) and

deciduous hedge pruning " Bark and twigs; good for aerating a pile " Add woody and hedge waste sparingly

Other stuff - high in nitrogen " Manure - highest in nitrogen when fresh " Beer and brewing wastes " Coffee grounds and Tea leaves Other stuff - high in carbon " Paper - use sparingly, up to 10% of your heap. Things to avoid " Brassica roots and potato plants (to avoid disease in

your plot). " Animal products, dairy and fish. They stink, attract

vermin, and may carry disease. " Faeces of carnivorous animals - like cats and dogs " Glossy or coated papers, contain chemicals " Cooked food - which will also attract vermin. " Sewage sludge - which can contain heavy metals. " Ash from burning treated woods, coal, charcoal


How much work you put into your compost heap will determine how quickly you get a nutrient rich soil. This means turn your heap regularly and keep the top covered. You can even sow nasturtiums on the top instead of newspaper or old carpet, to speed up getting your end product.

Organic Liquid Feed Various teas can be produced by soaking nutrient rich plant species in a vat of water. The nutrients in the plants leach out into the water producing a liquid fertiliser that you can use to give your crops a lift, remembering that liquid fertilisers are only short term fixes.

To make your ‘tea’:

! Soak your material (nettles, comfrey - Boking 14 variety) with plain water in a bin.

! Make sure to put the lid on and place out of the way from habitation, it will smell!

! The mixture will be ready in 2 days to apply directly onto plants, if you leave for 2-4 weeks you will get a more concentrated mixture that needs to be diluted (1 part tea to 10 parts water for watering, 1 part tea to 20 parts water for leaves).

! Make sure to stir concentrate every couple of days otherwise the water will become stagnant.


10. Seasons

Growing fruit and vegetables means you have to be in touch with the seasons – according to the month there will be different general jobs, as well as plants to sow and harvest. The table gives some information on what

needs doing when and general tasks around the allotment. More information in sowing is in section 9. Jan Digging if weather allows, plan your rotation and

your seed order. Start planting indoors. Feb Planting under cloches.

March Prepare your vegetable beds - fork in over-

wintered green manures, and mulches of manure/compost. Start sowing.

April Peak time for outdoor sowing. Weeding by hoe to discourage slugs. If planted last year harvest broccoli, turnip tops, spring cabbage, rhubarb.

May Weeding. Watering if weather is dry. Watch for early signs of any pests/diseases. Continue to plant and sow. Sow short summer green manures. Harvest early sown lettuce and radish.

June Weeding. Watering if weather is dry. Watch for any pests/diseases. Sow short summer green manures. Continue to plant and sow, although mainly a planting month. Pick early sown broad beans.


July Weeding. Watering if weather is dry. Watch for any pests/diseases. Sow short summer green manures. Harvest broad-beans, early French beans, beetroot, greenhouse, cucumbers and tomatoes, courgettes, shallots, onions, lettuce, peas, radishes etc.

Aug Sow over-wintering green manures. Main time for harvesting much of your crop.

Sept Last chance to sow over-wintering green manures. Getting very close to the last opportunity to harvest tender crops - beans, corn, squashes, that will not survive frost.

Oct Still some harvesting. Clean up beds - especially any finished crops which could harbour disease/pests.

Nov Early digging? Or cover with mulch (manure, compost) and leave it to spring. Remove large weeds from green-manure beds.

Dec A good time to clear slug shelters from your plot - rubbish, pots, plastic, wood, stones, bricks; let the slugs freeze! Check crops in store - remove any doubtful potatoes, onions, and roots. May be gathering some winter spinach, Swedes, turnips, cabbage.


11. Organic Gardening

Growing organically does involve more time and attention but the reward is worth it.

Where possible it is good to use products and methods that benefit both the local and

wider environment. For example it may be good for your plot to use peat but it is not

good for the peat bogs where this material is harvested. Peat bogs are a valuable habitat for many plants and animals and have been degraded due to demand for peat to be used in gardens. Alternatively peat free compost does exist and is just as good!

Here are some ideas:

! Always use peat free

! For timber frames use suppliers who are members of the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC)

! Try to avoid the use of chemicals – opt for more organic and natural methods (see above)

12. Contacts & information HDRA

The HDRA has a catalogue full of organic growing ideas Ryton Organic Gardens Coventry Warwickshire CV8 3LG Tel: +44 (0) 24 7630 3517 Email: [email protected]


Royal Horticultural Society Horticultural & Gardening Membership Organisation 80 Vincent Square London SW1P 2PE Telephone 020 7834 4333 [email protected] Allotment Regeneration Initiative Promotes, provides advice and funds for the regeneration of allotments. Bethan Stagg, Co-ordinator, The Green House, Hereford St, Bedminster, Bristol BS3 4NA Tel. 0117 9631 551 [email protected] Groundwork East London Environmental Regeneration Charity running various projects with local residents and organisations Sarah Williams (Community Team) 6 Lower Clapton Rd London E5 0PD T: 020 8985 1755 [email protected] Suggestions of books to read Gardening through the Year - RHS Practical Allotment Garden - Caroline Foley The Pocket Vegetable Expert - Dr D. G. Hessayon


Websites http://www.keirg.freeserve.co.uk http://www.allotments-uk.com/default.asp http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/ Mail order companies Earnest Charles Tel 0800 7316 770 www.earnest-charles.com The Organic Gardening Catalogue Tel 0845 130 1304 www.organiccatalogue.com Green Gardener Tel 01394 420087 www.greengardener.co.uk Lazy Dog Tools Co Philip Trevelyan Hill Top Farm Spaunton Appleton-le-moors York YO62 6TR www.lazydogtoolco.co.uk


13. Your Notes


14. Acknowledgements We would like to acknowledge the contribution of the following: ! Hayley Sullivan (5-a-day Coordinator) who initiated

the pack ! Sarah Williams (Groundwork East London) – who

wrote and designed the pack ! Gavin Keir – whose fantastic website contributed a

lot of the information www.keirg.freeserve.co.uk ! The Bridge House Trust who funded the production of

this pack ! All the other contributors including Gill Jarman, Chris

Gallehawk and Ken Harman


Produced by Groundwork East London " 2005 For Beacontree Heath Allotment Association

Funded by Bridge House Trust

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