Axles and Alloys II Playtest 11feb[1]

AXLES AND ALLOYS II

PLAYTEST VERSION 11/FEB/2010

1 - FOREWORD AND PREAMBLE

Axles and Alloys II is a game of stupid automotive combat using Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars converted into post-apocalyptic, crudely armoured gun-toting wagons. Which then proceed to chase each other around a radioactive desert landscape attempting to destroy each other for absolutely no bloody good reason whatsoever. It's main influence is the toy car conversion scene that sprang up around Games Workshop's Dark Future in the 1980s along with my feeling that Dark Future was never a very good game in the first place and that Car Wars was too large and cumbersome to be worth playing.

The original Axles and Alloys, way before it ever got written up for web distribution back around 2001 or so was little more than a homebrew adaptation of Full Thrust with Hot Wheels cars rather than Spacecraft. Axles and Alloys was the form the game took when dragged around the wargames convention scene in the English Midlands. It turned out to be surprisingly popular when released onto the intertubes for reasons I can't really grok but I suspect that it was a hit because it didn't take itself very seriously, offered a great outlet for the sort of creative urges that enjoy converting Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars into post-apocalyptic, crudely armoured gun-toting wagons etc. and that previous attempts at this sort of thing (like the aforementioned commercial games) weren't actually very playable.

So this is 2010's version and it's called Axles and Alloys II. As is the modern fashion it also has a subtitle – Dork Future.

It's still fundamentally the same game, but with new, better movement rules and a load of stuff written down for your convenience that wasn't actually written down before. It's also still completely free.

It's important to remember when reading the rules and playing the game my thoughts on Battletech. For me Battletech is an excellent little game of Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another. And games that revolve around Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another work best when they limit themselves to being games that revolve around Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out of One Another. Honestly it has Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another and that's all it needs. Once games like Battletech drift off into possessing fan scenes that take great pains to remain canon with the background and worry about whether their camo painting is accurate for a universe that doesn't exist and making sure that their vision of the world of Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another matches the game designer's one 100%... it gets stupid.

Axles and Alloys II is a game of Converted Hot Wheels And Matchbox Cars Driving Around And Around And Around and Trying To Shoot The Shit Out of One Another. It doesn't deserve a game treatment any more involved than this one. Do you want something on a par with Advanced Squad Leader when all you are doing is Converting Hot Wheels And Matchbox Cars And Then Driving Around And Around And Around and Trying To Shoot The Shit Out of One Another?

No? Good. Read on.

Required Toys and EquipmentEach player will require a toy car, preferably of Matchbox/Hot Wheels size (but notes on scaling for larger cars can be found in Appendix II) referred to in the rules as a Vehicle. See Appendix I for notes on converting these cars. Cars don't need to be based but assuming you are using cars of the Matchbox/Hot Wheels size nearly all of them will fit neatly into a 3” x 1.5” base. Some players prefer to leave the cars unbased so that they can continue to enjoy the tactile feel of “whizzing” cars across the tabletop. Some players prefer to leave the cars unbased but glue the axles up to prevent them rolling off slopes. Some players like the look of a model on a proper base with groundworking. YMMV.

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AXLES AND ALLOYS II

Dice are all standard d6 but you will need access to a Games Workshop Scatter Die or similar. If you don't have one, paint out the dots on an old d6 and paint a little arrow-head on each face.

Mines, Oil Slicks and Spikes counters are all 3” x 1.5” in size. You'll need these if any vehicle is using Dropped Weapon systems.

Cotton Wool for marking fires/destroyed vehicles (or just ready-made wrecks) and a selection of counters to mark moved vehicles and vehicles that have already attacked.

Terrain. We traditionally use a desert cloth (either one of the no-longer-available Games Workshop “1970s vinyl tablecloth mats” or some camel-covered bedsheets sprayed up with aerosol paints. On top of this we add assorted desert terrain such as sand-coloured hills, swamps, outcrops of rock and wrecked vehicles.

Pens and scrap paper for plotting speeds.

Tape Measures. Axles and Alloys II uses Imperial measurements (aka “English” measurements). If you live in a country where Imperial tape measures aren't easily available you can make measuring sticks by marking off every 25mm and calling it an inch. (It's actually 25.4mm but who cares?). Alternatively you can play in centimetres by doubling all measurements in this game and reading them as centimetres instead, so that a 12” move actually becomes 24cm. This is a shorter than a proper inch-to-centimetre conversion but frankly doesn't matter very much so long as everyone is doing the same thing.

ConventionsWe always measure from centre of roof to centre of roof. We don’t allow pre-measuring before an order has been written.


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2 - VEHICLES

We divide Vehicles into three classes by Weight.

Light Vehicles are small superminis (sub-compacts – Mini, Ford Fiesta, Toyota Yaris etc.), small sports cars (MX-5/Miata, Lotus Elise, MGB etc.), hot-rods with minimal bodywork and dune buggy type cars.

Heavy Vehicles are vans, ambulances, stretch limos, hearses, armoured cars etc.

Virtually everything else is a Medium Vehicle. Nearly all saloon (sedan) cars and muscle cars are Medium Vehicles.

Each Vehicle has four ratings for it's speed and handling. These are MAX (Maximum Speed), ACC (Maximum Acceleration), DEC (Maximum Deceleration) and TURN (Number of turns permitted per game turn).

Light Vehicles typically have MAX 24, ACC 6, DEC 6, TURN 3Medium Vehicles typically have MAX 22, ACC 5, DEC 5, TURN 2Heavy Vehicles typically have MAX 20, ACC 4, DEC 4, TURN 2

These figures can be tweaked to more closely represent the models you have available but they are recommended figures for pick-up games.

Optional Rule - You can randomly create cars by taking the typical values above and throwing a d6 for each of MAX, ACC and DEC. Do not adjust the TURN rating.On a 1 subtract 2 from the valueOn a 2 subtract 1 from the valueOn a 5 add 1 to the valueOn a 6 add 2 to the value

Hit Points record the damage that a vehicle can take. On a vehicle sheet, the HitPoints will consist of three lines of circles, each of equal length, in the following manner.OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOnce a line of circles has been crossed out, the vehicle driver tests for the loss of Components as detailed in the damage section below.

Light vehicles have 3 lines of 4 circles, and therefore have 12 hit points.Medium vehicles have 3 lines of 5 circles, and therefore have 15 hit points.Heavy vehicles have 3 lines of 6 circles, and therefore have 18 hit points.

Vehicles can be equipped with a number of weapons and items of equipment dependent upon their weight class. We refer to this weapons and pieces of equipment as Components and the amount that a specific vehicle can carry as its Capacity.

Light Vehicles have a Capacity of 3 points.Medium Vehicles have a Capacity of 4 points.Heavy Vehicles have a Capacity of 5 points.

Each point of Capacity can be filled either with 1 Light Weapon or 1 item of Equipment. A Medium Weapon requires 2 points of Capacity, a Turret costs an extra 1 point of Capacity for each weapon within it. Heavy Ramplates require 2 points of Capacity. A Dropped Weapon system costs 1 point of Capacity. Heavy Weapons cannot be fitted to vehicles.

Flamethrowers cost 2 points of Capacity as they include both the weapon itself and its fuel


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source (which, yes, is liable to explode when shot).

Weapons that are within a turret must be declared as occupying one of four firing faces - Front, Rear, Left or Right. This may not change during the game. Dropped Weapon systems always occupy a Rear firing face, for reasons that should hopefully be obvious! There is no limit on how many weapons may occupy a firing face.

An example follows

Car : Purple HazeDriver : Antihiro ProtagonistRerolls : 0Weight : MediumMAX 22 ACC 5 DEC 5 TURN 2Hit Points: ooooo Systems lost on 6

ooooo Systems lost on 5,6ooooo Vehicle Destroyed

Systems:Engine (Damaged/Destroyed)Steering (Damaged/Destroyed)Brakes (Destroyed)Fuel (Vehicle Destroyed)Driver (Dead)Weapons:Heavy Laser (Medium, Front)Light Laser (Light, Rear) Equipment:Ramplates

Purple Haze has been built with the standard Medium weight class stat line. Being a Medium vehicle it has a Capacity of 4. The Light Laser and Ramplates each cost 1 Capacity and the Medium Laser costs 2. As neither weapon is turreted, Purple Haze's player decides that the Heavy Laser will fire forwards and the Light Laser backwards.

WYSIWYG In an ideal world, vehicle models would be entirely WYSIWYG with exactly the same weapon configuration as on the Vehicle Sheet. Obviously this never happens.

A vehicle model must be of the right weight class - no vans pretending to be dune buggies for example. Beyond that the actual modelled weapon configuration can be purely representative. Before play, each player must announce his Weight Class, all fired weapons including turret mountings, ramplates and heavy ramplates. There is no need to announce any other SYSTEMS including Dropped Weapons.

At any point during the game, a player can request that this information be repeated.


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3 - TURN SEQUENCE

1 - All players write down intended speed for this game-turn aka “Plotting Speed”2 - If using optional Environmental Conditions, any required die rolls are made now3 - Vehicles are moved in order of speed from fastest to slowest. Each vehicle may fire 4 - Any vehicles that have not yet fired may do so now5 - Roll for fires

Speed is measured in inches. A Speed of 12 means that the vehicle will be moving 12 inches this game-turn.

At the start of each game-turn, each player writes down their vehicle's speed for the forthcoming game-turn. This speed will be based upon the speed used in the last game-turn and may be adjusted downwards by a maximum of the vehicle's DEC rating and upwards by a maximum of the ACC rating. Unless a nitro charge is being used the speed may never exceed the MAX rating.

Vehicles moving backwards use their ACC rating as their MAX rating.

Vehicles with a DAMAGED engine have the MAX speed halved. If a car suffered a DAMAGED engine in the last game-turn and was travelling faster than it's new adjusted MAX then the car's current speed will be the MAX rating.

Vehicles with a DESTROYED engine will have their MAX rating reduced by 4” each game-turn until stationary at which point they will longer move.

Stationary vehicles will start with an assumed speed of 0" so that they move anywhere between 0 and their ACC rating in the game-turn n which the start moving again.

Players intending to use nitro in this game-turn will note down the use of a charge. This will add 2d6" to a vehicle's move in this game-turn but this is a temporary boost - next game-turn the vehicle will be assumed to be travelling at the speed written down. The 2d6" bonus is effectively ignored when the next game-turns speed is plotted. Nitros have two charges.

Once all players have written their speed down, the game-turn may begin.

Optional Rule – As nitro systems have two charges you may like to allow the truly insane to use both at once for a 4d6” bonus as opposed to the standard intention of allowing two boosts of 2d6” in separate game-turns. For obscure in-joke reasons this is known as “doing a Scott”.

Examples Hirsute Helga is at the wheel of Der Bahnstormer (MAX 24, ACC4, DEC3). Last game-turn she travelled at 22". This game-turns movement may be anywhere between 19" (current speed minus DEC) and 24" (current speed plus ACC but capped at MAX). If she were travelling at 12”, this game-turns movement may be anywhere between 9” and 16”.

Mad Mick is at the wheel of The Paddywagon (MAX 20, ACC5, DEC4). Last game-turn he travelled at 18" but suffered a DAMAGED result to his engine. His MAX is now halved to 10, but as 18" is greater than 10 his speed is reduced to 10 for this game-turn. He may now move between 6" (current speed minus ACC) and 10" (new MAX)


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4 - MOVEMENT

Vehicles are moved in the order fastest to slowest (i.e. furthest distance to shortest distance). Determine the highest speed (including nitro boosts) and allow that vehicle to move. The owner may always defer until later in the Movement phase. Vehicles travelling at the same speed dice off and the highest score moves first.

ExampleThe three vehicles in the game are moving at 22" (Doghead), 20" (Deadgirl) and 14" (Knuckles). Doghead can move first but chooses to defer until later. Deadgirl then moves and Doghead then chooses to make his move. Knuckles has to wait until last.

Optional Rule - For faster play, ideal for when running large games at conventions, don't allow players to defer until later in the Movement phase.

Optional Rule - For larger games, mark moved vehicles with a counter of some description so that all players are aware of which cars are yet to move.

Vehicles may make a number of turns equal to their TURN rating. Each turn is up to 45 degrees. A turn may be made at the start of a vehicles movement, at the end of a vehicles movement, or midway through the vehicles movement. Only one turn may be made at each point - i.e. it is not allowed to turn twice and then move. Turns do not have to be plotted in the Plot Speed phase.

Vehicles with DAMAGED steering will have their TURN reduced by 1. Vehicles with DESTROYED steering may not turn at all.

ExampleHirsuite Helga is travelling at 16" and has a TURN of 2. If she wishes to make one turn she may.

-Turn 45 degrees and travel 16" -Travel 16" and then turn 45 degrees -Travel 8", turn 45 degrees and travel another 8"

If she wishes to make two turns she may -Turn 45 degrees, travel 16" and turn another 45 degrees -Turn 45 degrees, travel 8", turn 45 degrees and travel 8" -Travel 8", turn 45 degrees, travel 8" and turn 45 degrees.

Hitting Things If a vehicle hits a solid piece of scenery it is destroyed. The driver is killed on a 4,5 or 6 on d6.

If a vehicle hits a pond or swamp or similar it is destroyed but probably in less violent a fashion. We assume the driver survives but is very wet, unless the pond or swamp is comprised of toxic waste (not unlikely) in which case he is killed or turned into a vegetation-based being on a 4,5 or 6 on d6.

If a vehicle hits a stationary vehicle (one with a current speed of 0), it takes d3 Hit Points of damage. The stationary vehicle takes 2d6 Hit Points of damage. The rammer travels no further this game turn and will start next turn at half his current speed.

If a vehicle hits a non-stationary vehicle (one with a current speed that is not 0), both vehicles roll d6 and apply the following modifiers.


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Vehicles fitted with Ramming Plates (or similar) +1Vehicles fitted with Heavy Ramming Plates (or similar) +2Light vehicles -1Heavy vehicles +1

The high scorer takes d3 Hit Points of damage. He travels no further this game turn and will start next turn at half his current speed.

The low scorer takes d6 Hit Points of damage and suffers Loss of Control.

If a vehicle hits a non-stationary vehicle in a clear head-on collision, then both vehicles suffer 2d6 Hit Points of damage and suffer Loss of Control. If it's unclear as to whether a collision is head-on or at an angle, I suggest you allow all players (and any interested spectators) to vote upon it - this will pretty much guarantee it being judged a head-on to the amusement of all who are not involved in the collision. You can't argue with democracy.


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5 – SKIDS AND DRIFTS

Skidding and drifting have been given their own section because they are recommended, but purely optional rules. Incorporating them does add extra complexity but makes the game feel more like “real” driving (well as real as pretending to drive around a radioactive wasteland shooting crossbows and lasers ever can be). Players may however prefer the game without this further complexity as it does then feel a lot closer to the older Axles and Alloys with it's “clockface” turning system.

Any vehicle that attempts to turn while travelling at greater than 12” must throw d6 to see if a skid occurs as soon as the vehicle model is rotated. Regardless of the result the vehicle is still turned as the player intends.

Speed Skids on (d6) Distance skidded

13”-18” 6 Roll 2xd6 – Vehicle skids the lowest score in inches.

19”-24” 5,6 Light – Roll 2xd6 – Vehicle skids the lowest score in inches.Medium – Roll 2xd6 – Vehicle skids either score in inches (player's choice).Heavy – Roll 2xd6 – Vehicles skids the highest score in inches.

25”+ 4,5,6 Roll 2xd6 – Vehicle skids the total score in inches.

Skids are sideways movements of the vehicle and the vehicle will skid in the opposite direction to the turn – so if a vehicle skids when turning to the left it will be moved sideways to the right.

Move the vehicle the length of the skid in inches.

If the two dice thrown for skid distance come up double six, the vehicle suffers Loss of Control. If they come up double one, the vehicle overturns and is destroyed.

[Needs diagram]

If the skid occurs at the start or mid-point of the vehicles movement, the vehicle has having used the distance of the skid as part of it's move. This does not affect the vehicles speed for next turn.

Example Hirsuite Helga turns at the mid point of her movement, turning to the left. Her speed is 20” so after rotating the vehicle left up to 45 degrees, her player throws d6. A score of 5 indicates a skid. Helga is driving a Lightweight vehicle so throws 2d6 but checks the individual scores, not the total. The scores are 3 and 4 and Helga therefore skids 3” directly to the right. Helga had travelled 10” at the point of the turn and has used 3” in the skid – therefore she only moves forwards another 7” for the rest of her movement.

Drifts

When drifting a vehicle turns through more than 45 degrees in a turn, up to a maximum of 90


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degrees. This will automatically induce a skid and the two dice are thrown in the normal fashion. Drifting is risky but can change direction very quickly – if somewhat haphazardly.

When turning a vehicle more than 45 degrees a player is honour-bound to declare that this is a drift and not merely a rather cavalier measurement/estimation of 45 degrees.


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6 – JUMPING THINGS If a vehicle drives over a ramp, hill crest or out of a depression at 12" or greater it will become airborne. It will jump for half it's current speed (quarter for Heavy vehicles) and will ignore all terrain and other vehicles for this fragment of it's move. At the end of the jump it will land, if Medium or Heavy and travelling at 18" or greater it will take d6 damage as it does so.

Any vehicles shot at while in the air will always be treated as travelling at 21" or greater so require 6s to hit. If the cars movement leaves it still in the air, leave it raised on a small Night Nurse glass (a clear, plastic tumbler for cough and cold medicine) or similar and mark how many inches it needs to move in the air before landing with a spare die. The vehicles speed may not be adjusted this turn (pedals don't work very well when flying...) and it will not be allowed to turn at the start of it's movement.

Jumping vehicles cannot collide with non-jumping vehicles. If a collision occurs between two vehicles then both suffer d6 Hit Points of damage and suffer Loss of Control.

Examples Virginia Dentata is travelling at 19” and 7” into his move leaves a ramp. Her vehicle is of Light or Medium weight. She therefore flies for 10” (19” halved and rounded up). During the next 10” of her move she ignores all terrain, dropped weapon counters and other vehicles. As she is in the air at the halfway point of her move (10”) she may not make a 45 degree turn here. She lands and takes d6 damage for travelling faster than 18”. She then travels the remaining 2” on the ground. She may make a 45 degree turn at the end of her movement if her player wishes.

Dogmeat is travelling at 16” and 12” into his move crosses a hill crest. His vehicle will fly for the next 8” (16” halved). As he has only 4” left of his move, the car is moved 4” flying and left on a temporary raiser, such as the aforementioned medicine tumbler or large die. For the rest of this turn he is treated as travelling at 21” or greater for the purpose of incoming fire and cannot be rammed by another vehicle. He cannot make a turn at the end of this movement. As an aide memoir his player places a die next to the vehicle reading 4. Next turn he cannot change his speed so stays at 16” and the first 4” of his movement are in the air.


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7 - COMBAT

During a turn each vehicle may make one attack with any or all of it's weapons. This may come at any point during the movement phase, including while a vehicle is being moved when the firer will be able to say “I shoot at you when you get here” (indicates point on table). The movement is temporarily frozen while the attack procedure is carried out. This may mean that a vehicle never reaches it's end point as it is destroyed or suffers Loss of Control before completing it's movement.

[The above paragraph is the original intention but we have tried it only shooting after a movement has been completed – this seems quite a bit slicker and easier to cope with.]

Combat is not simultaneous and occurs in the order in which players request it. If there is a debate over who requested an attack first, dice-off for who gets the privilege of firing first or allow simultaneous. Either way is acceptable but keep it consistent.

Optional Rule – For larger games, mark vehicles that have attacked with a counter of some description so that all players are aware of which cars are yet to attack.

After the slowest vehicle has completed it's move, any vehicle that has not attacked may do so. These attacks will be simultaneous.

As was the case in the original Axles and Alloys, combat owes a great debt to Jon Tuffley's excellent spacecraft wargame Full Thrust. You should buy it. It's fantastic.

Line Of SightTo fire at a target a straight line must be traceable from the centre of the firer’s roof (hood) to the centre of the target’s roof (hood) within the arc of the firing weapon. Firing arcs are 90 degrees.

[Need Diagram – 4 arcs Front, Rear, Left, Right]

WeaponsWeapons are divided into three classes, Guns, Flamethrowers and Dropped Weapons. Dropped Weapons are detailed in the Movement phase.

Guns are divided into three classes.

Gun Class Examples

Light Machine Guns, Light Lasers, Handguns, Crossbows etc.

Medium Grenade Launchers, Heavy Lasers, Rocket Launchers etc.

Heavy (see note below) TOW, Multiple Rocket Launcher systems etc.

Heavy Guns are too heavy to be mounted on vehicles so they are included out of a sense of completeness and for special scenarios involving fixed defences.

When firing Guns, a number of d6 are rolled depending upon the Gun Class and range.

Gun Class D6 Rolled

Light 1d6 up to 12” range

Medium 2d6 up to 12” range, 1d6 up to 24” range


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Heavy 3d6 up to 12” range, 2d6 up to 24” range, 1d6 up to 36” range

Target numbers to hit depend upon speed of the target vehicle. Speed is taken as the distance plotted for the vehicle in this turn whether or not it has yet to move – vehicles yet to move are not stationary unless they have 0” for their plotted movement. Include any nitro bonus in the speed of the target.

Speed of Target Vehicle Target Numbers (d6)

0” 4s and 5s do 2 Hit Points, 6s do 4 Hit Points

1”-12” 4s and 5s do 1 Hit Points, 6s do 2 Hit Points

13”-20” 5s and 6s do 1 Hit Point

21”+ or Jumping 6s do 1 Hit Point

FlamethrowersEach Flamethrower attacks as a Light Gun. A successful hit is one that cause damages. Each time a vehicle is successfully hit by a Flamethrower a fire is started. Mark each fire on a vehicle with a small piece of painted cotton wool or similar. Vehicles may be suffering from multiple fires, we assume this is just a very large fire. At the end of each turn roll a d6 for each FIRE in the game.

d6 Result

1,2 Fire goes out and is removed

3,4 Fire continues to burn – vehicle takes 1 Hit Point of damage

5,6 Fires burns fiercely – vehicle takes 2 Hit Points of damage

If the vehicle is fitted with a Fire Extinguisher use the following table instead.

d6 Result

1,2,3,4 Fire goes out and is removed

5,6 Fire continues to burn – vehicle takes 1 Hit Point of damage

TurretsWhen designing a car any or all weapons may be turreted. Each vehicle may only have one turret (keeps things nice and simple). A turret counts as a Component (see Damage below) and is liable to loss so that a single turreted weapon is essentially twice as fragile as a non-turreted one because loss of either turret or weapon will disable it. A destroyed turret will destroy its weapon or weapons. If a Flamethrower is a in a turret, loss of the turret destroys the Flamethrower not the Flame Tank.

Turrets take up space and are heavy – they take up a point of Capacity (see 2 - Vehicles) per weapon fitted in them. A turret with two light weapons will therefore cost 4 points of Capacity.

Optional Rule – You may find turrets to be overly powerful and indeed they seem to become more powerful the smaller the table size becomes. To help balance them you might find preventing them from firing into the rear 60 degree fire arc makes for fairer games.


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8 – DAMAGE

Each circle on a vehicle's record sheet refers to one Hit Point. Once a complete line of Hit Points circles has been removed, a so-called Threshold is reached and each Component must be checked to see if it is destroyed.

Once the first line of Hit Points is removed, each Component is destroyed on a d6 score of 6.

Once the second line of Hit Points is removed, each Component is destroyed on a d6 score of 5 or 6.

Once the third line of Hit Points is removed, the vehicle itself is destroyed and the fate of each Component is somewhat academic with the exception of the Driver who should will be killed on a d6 score of 4,5 or 6. This will be important if a series of linked games are being played and in this case Drivers will be killed on a 4,5 or 6 if the vehicle is destroyed in any fashion (Fuel Tank explosion, hitting a Solid Object etc.)

Check for the following Components after each line is removed. The first group are present on all vehicles. The second group will be dependent upon the individual configuration of the vehicle being damaged.

First GroupFuel Tank – If destroyed, vehicle is destroyed in a nice, satisfying fireball. Leave the vehicle where it is and mark with cotton wool or overturn it.Driver – If destroyed, driver is dead. Vehicle suffers Loss of Control and is abandoned wherever it ends up.Engine. On first destroyed result, the engine is actually just damaged and MAX is immediately halved. On a second destroyed result the engine is actually destroyed and the vehicles MAX will decrease by 4” per game-turn as the vehicle grinds to a halt.Steering. On first destroyed result the steering is actually just damaged and the vehicles' TURN rating is reduced by 1. On a second destroyed result the steering is actually destroyed and the vehicle's TURN rating is reduced to 0 and may not turn at all. Steering damage therefore actually covers a multitude of sins including the steering system itself, wheels, tyres and suspension.Brakes. If destroyed the vehicles DEC is reduced to 2. If the DEC already was 2 then that just shows how good your brakes were in the first place!Weapon – Each weapon counts as a Component and is destroyed if destroyed.

Second GroupDropped Weapon System – Each dropped weapon counts as a Component and is destroyed if destroyed.Turret – Each turret counts as a Component and is destroyed if destroyed, furthermore the turret weapons will be destroyed along with the turret.Other Components – Each piece of equipment counts as a System and is destroyed if destroyed.Flame Tank - A vehicle fitted with a Flamethrower must spend a Capacity point on it's Flame Tank. If destroyed the vehicle is destroyed in another nice, satisfying explosion.

Loss of ControlVehicles that suffer Loss of Control immediately have a randomized move. Throw a Games Workshop Scatter Die and the vehicle moves off in that direction. The distance moved is dependent upon the speed of the vehicle, and as noted above in Combat, this is the plotted move (plus nitro bonus if any) regardless of how little or far the actual vehicle has yet moved in this turn.


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Speed of Vehicle Distance Moved

0 to 12” d6”

13” to 20” d6+d3”

21”+ 2d6”

Once moved, the vehicle's new facing is unimportant. The vehicle misses it's next turn while the driver gets his breath back and restarts the stalled engine. Once it is able to move the vehicle may be turned to face any direction at the start of it's move for free.

Designer's Note – Yes, this can give totally nonsensical skid results that completely ignore whatever the vehicle was doing before such as which direction it was actually travelling in. This solution is nice and simple though and I'm not sure that the silliness of the whole game really calls for anything more involved. If yer knows of a better 'ole then go to it. Just remember the Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another and this rule will seem perfectly OK. Honest.


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9 -EQUIPMENT LIST & DROPPED WEAPONS

The value in brackets is the Capacity cost required to mount the Weapon or Component. Each Weapon or Component is liable to be lost at Threshold and must be rolled for.

Light Weapon (1)Medium Weapon (2)Turret (1 per weapon included)Flamethrower (2 - Includes a second Component FLAME TANK - loss of this destroys the vehicle)Mine Dropper (1)Spike Dropper (1)Oil Dropper (1)Napalm Dropper (1)Smokescreen Dropper (1)Ramplates (1) (see note 1)Heavy Ramplates(2) (see note 1)Fire Extinguisher (1)Body Armour/Armoured Cockpit (1 - Driver loss may be rerolled once)Racing Fuel Cell (1 - Fuel loss may be rerolled once)Armoured Engine Bay (1 - Engine loss/damage may be rerolled once)Run-flat Tyres/Armoured Wheels (1 - Steering loss may be rerolled once) (see note 2)Nitro System (1 - Grants two "uses")

Note 1 - Ramplates include all manner of offensive equipment such as rams, Chaos Spikey Bits, buzzsaws, chainsaws, oxyacetylene torches, passengers swinging melee weapons, wheel scythes and drills. Robot Wars stuff in other words. Heavy Ramplates are simply larger, spikier, heavier, more unpleasant versions.Note 2 - Does not grant immunity to Steering DAMAGE if a Spikes template is driven over.

Dropped WeaponsDropped Weapons are, basically, dropped behind the vehicle during it's movement. All Dropped Weapons have three "drops", each drop is a template 3" x 1.5" in size.

A Vehicle can perform a drop at any point during it's move, so long as it has moved at least 3" in this game turn. (This rule is prevent the nonsense whereby a Vehicle turns at the start of the move and immediately drops into space it has never occupied). Place the relevant template immediately behind the vehicle with the short edge (1.5") against the rear of the Vehicle or Vehicle base. It is permissable to drop multiple templates in contact with each other.

Dropped Weapons come in five varieties.Mines are a small scattering of proximity-fused explosives.Oil Slicks are an oil, designed to make pursuers lose control.Spikes covers a whole range of pointy, tyre-shredding implements from caltrops, spiked nets and Police-style "stingers" to the good, old-fashioned box of tin tacks.Napalm also covers flaming oil and anything liquid and flammable – any fire that covers the ground and burns throughout the game.Smokescreens are large clouds of smoke that might be oil or phosphoruous based and designed to limit visibility.

If a Vehicle travels over a Mine template, the proximity fuse may detonate. Light vehicles set off mines on a d6 roll of 4+, Medium on 3+, Heavy on 2+. If a Mine template detonates, the target immediately takes 2d6 damage and suffers from Loss of Control. The Mine template is then removed. Undetonated Mine templates are not removed.

If a Vehicle travels over an Oil Slick template, it immediately suffers from Loss of Control. The Oil Slick template is NOT removed. Light Vehicles may ignore an Oil Slick template on a roll of 5


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or 6 on d6.

If a Vehicle travels over a Spikes template it suffers from DAMAGED steering (actually the tyres but who's counting?). If the steering was already DAMAGED, the steering is DESTROYED. The Spikes template is NOT removed.

If a Vehicle travels over a Napalm template it automatically catches Fire. The Napalm template itself continues to burn and is not removed.

A Smokescreen template blocks all line of sight and so Vehicles may not fire through it. At the start of each turn roll d6 for each individual Smokescreen, on a 6 that Smokescreen is removed.

Note that a Vehicle destroyed by a Mine, is destroyed by a Fire caused by Napalm or suffers Loss of Control from an Oil Slick that causes it to be destroyed in a crash counts as a "kill" for the player who dropped that template.


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10 - SCENARIOS AND OTHER IMPEDIMENTIA

DeathmatchThe classic A&A setup. The tabletop represents a walled arena somewhere deep in the wastelands or in a corporate-controlled domed city. Players enter the arena through blastdoors that close behind them. ("Close the blastdoors! Close the blastdoors!"). The fight is to death, cheered on a baying crowd.

Set up a table with a few Solid Objects to block Line of Sight and to force the players to steer around things. Players enter the table on the first turn spaced out roughly evenly and at Speed 6. It is assumed that blast doors close behind the players and the entire table edge is therefore a Solid Object of metres-thick concrete. Alternatively in a wasteland setting this is more likely to be an electric fence or having the arena surrounded by minefields or radioactive sludge-filled trenches. The game effect is identical in either case and will destroy any vehicle that hits it.

The winner is the last surviving player.

For further complexity, and assuming all players are in agreement, up to 2d6 Napalm templates, Oil Slick templates or Spikes templates may be placed in the arena. Up to d6 ramps may be placed in the arena. Up to d6 wrecked vehicles may be placed in the arena.

RacesFor a race scenario the tabletop will have to be set up with a number of Solid Objects to be steered around. The simplest setup would be something like a tri-oval with three Solid Objects placed, a start/finish line agreed upon and a direction of travel (clockwise or anti-clockwise) decided. A track may be enclosed with barriers like a conventional racetrack or "open" and more akin to an air-racing course. Masking tape can provide a temporary way of marking out barriers. If barriers are used, the track should be generally around 8-12" wide along most of its length. Don't forget that crossovers (where two straights cross each other) can make for entertaining mayhem. Crossovers can be approached via ramps.

For further complexity, and assuming all players are in agreement, up to 2d6 Napalm templates, Oil Slick templates or Spikes templates may be placed on the race-track. Up to d6 ramps may be placed on the race-track. Up to d6 wrecked vehicles may be placed on the race-track.

While barriers may be solid, it is not much fun to destroy a vehicle as soon as it contacts one. For Race scenarios, adopt the following rule - a vehicle that strikes a barrier at an angle is immediately turned so that it is running parallel to the barrier. If the vehicle is travelling at up to 8", no damage is taken. If the car is travelling at 9" to 16", d6 damage is taken. If the vehicle is travelling any faster, d6+2 damage is taken.

If a vehicle strikes a barrier at exactly 90 degrees it is destroyed as if it had struck a Solid Object. As with Head-On Collisions, a borderline case may be put up for public vote.

If a vehicle leaps a barrier and is unable to return to the track it is removed from the game.

For Race scenarios, the “One Lap Truce” rule is in effect. No vehicle is permitted to fire until it has completed a lap.

Dropped weapons are not permitted in Race scenarios.

Variations upon the Race scenario are

To The Finishline - A set number of laps (usually 3) with the winner being the first vehicle to complete all the laps. Banger Race – Unlimited laps. The winner is the last vehicle still rolling, if the game is ended


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up to a time limit with multiple cars still travelling, the winner is the car that completed the largest number of laps (in the correct direction) or, if multiple cars are on the same lap, the winner is the vehicle that is the furthest distance around the lap. Suicide Race - As To The Finishline but starting from the Start/Finish line half the pack run clockwise, the other half anti-clockwise. Vehicles only score laps for travelling in their intended direction.

Vehicles For Race ScenariosIt will be immediately obvious that Medium and Heavy vehicles will be massively disadvantaged in race games as the Lightweight Vehicles get away from them at the start of the race and stay out of the reach of their rams and short-ranged weapons. To get around this the vehicle statistics for races are essentially reversed so that the Heavy vehicles accelerate and brake slowly but will eventually reach far higher speeds than their lighter counterparts. For race games, adopt these statistics as the baselines for the vehicles.

Light Vehicles typically have MAX 22, ACC 6, DEC 6, TURN 3Medium Vehicles typically have MAX 25, ACC 5, DEC 5, TURN 2Heavy Vehicles typically have MAX 28, ACC 4, DEC 4, TURN 2

Observant readers will notice the similarity between this approach and the “Light Kart”, “Heavy Kart” of a few console racing games. Odd that :)

Team GamesAny of the above scenarios can be played in team. It is helpful if a team's vehicles are identified in some way such as being all the same colour or similar. Actually, only one team need be colour-coded so long as no vehicle on the other side has the same colour - that way a team scenario can be organised between "Team Red" and "Team Not-Red" or similar.

Badlands AmbushBadlands Ambush is a scenario for two sides. This may be a two player game or a multi-player one.

In this scenario one side jumps the other. Roll d6 for each side, the high scorer is the Attacker and the low scorer the Defender.

The Attacker secretly nominates one or two entry points, these may be corners or the midway points of table edges. (e.g. 3' in on a 6' long table edge).

Defender starts in centre of table having nominated a direction of travel. Defenders vehicles are travelling at 10" and pointing in the direction of travel. If a road terrain piece is available, it can be laid out to match the direction of the defenders travel with other terrain features re-arranged to accommodate it but this is purely visual and has no game effect.

Attacker vehicles then enter within 6" of either of their entry points, but if two entry points were selected then each entry point must be used by at least one vehicle. Attacker vehicles start travelling at 15".

Any vehicle that exits the table edge (more than half of it's base off-table) counts as lost. Each vehicle immobilised or destroyed scores 1 point for the opposition, regards of cause of that loss. In the result of a draw, the Defender side wins as the Attackers had the burden of attack and the speed advantage in the first game turn.

Environmental ConditionsEnvironmental Conditions offer an optional way to add a bit of extra chaos on the battlefield.

1 - Artillery Bombardment For some unfathomable reason, the battlefield starts to be used as a firing range by an army


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with big guns lurking over the horizon. Each turn turn a ranging shot comes over the horizon. Randomise it's position by any acceptable means. Any vehicle directly under the ranging shot is hit for 2d6 damage. Next turn a huge barrage will be coming in centred on that position. During that next turn any vehicle directly under the ranging shot takes 2d6 damage and any other vehicle with 6" takes 1d6 damage, any vehicle within 12" takes 1d3 damage. And of course, another ranging shot is coming in somewhere else on the turn that the barrage arrives.

2 - Radiation Randomly place d6 markers representing radiation hotspots. Each time a vehicle comes within 6" of one, note a single point of Radiation Exposure to the driver and roll a d6. If the roll is less than the number of Radiation Exposure points scored by that vehicle, the driver dies from radiation exposure.

3 - Acid Storm Like acid rain but more violent and more acidic. At the start of each turn roll a d6. If a 6 is scored the polluted atmosphere dumps acid down upon the battlefield. Each vehicle rolls a d6 on a 5 or 6 it suffers a single hit to one random SYSTEM.

4 - Night Stages Due to environmental damage, the day/night cycle is curiously random (perhaps clouds of radioactive dust block out the sun for a few minutes). At the start of each turn roll a d6, adding 1 to the result if the last game turn was affected by darkness. If a 6 or 7 is scored darkness falls momentarily. After any firing is declared, throw 3d6. If the score is less than the measured range, the firing does not happen as the driver is unsure of his target. Despite the lack of firing this does count as firing so that the vehicle may not attempt to fire again this turn.

5 - Cloudbursts Occasional squalls of heavy rain lash the battlefield. At the start of each turn roll a d6, adding 1 to the result if the last game turn was affected by a cloudburst. If a 6 or 7 is scored a cloudburst occurs. All fires and Napalm templates are immediately extinguished. The maximum firing range becomes 12". DEC rates are reduced by 1.

Swords, Shields and DeathsheadsInfluenced by a recent film, which itself was probably influenced by a few Kart-racing videogames. The weapons on the vehicles are all linked to kill-switches controlled by the overseer of the arena event or race – e.g. an evil MILF prison governor. Add a few 1” diameter counters to the table, marked with a Sword or a Shield. A vehicle cannot fire it's Light and Medium Weapons until it has run over a Sword. A vehicle cannot fire it's Dropped Weapons until it has run over a Shield.

Deathsheads are sunken concrete posts with steel spikes that start the game below the surface of the table. Represent them with a few 1" diameter counters marked with a skull. When sunken Deathsheads can be driven over and ignored. They can be raised by a Gamesmaster at any point, usually to make life awkward for a driver who is staying out of the fight or is getting just too good or just too cocky.

Deathsheads are Solid Objects so destroy any vehicle that hits one, furthermore as the steel spikes impale the driver's compartment, the Driver will automatically be killed – no rerolls!

Lady NavigatorsAlso influenced by a recent film, some televised or Internet-streamed events may have lady navigators shipped in from the women's prison in the interests of glamourpuss appeal. Alternatively Queen Bee from the lifer's wing might turn up and as do the job as well or indeed better than the eyecandy.

If Lady Navigators are being used,they count as a System and are killed if lost. Lady Navigators benefit from Ejector Seats (another System – Destroyed if lost), they may eject and parachute


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to safety at any time – however attempting this indoors is inevitably, messily fatal.

Lady Navigators fire all Dropped Weapons and these Systems may not be fired if the Lady Navigator is dead or has ejected.

Lady Navigators are also treated as a Fire Extinguisher system for the purposes of checking Fires.

In a campaign, Lady Navigators score one reroll for each event in which they survive without ejecting. This is added to the Driver's rerolls (if any) but in no circumstances may a rerolled die be rolled again.

RerollsSeveral rules offer a REROLL. A REROLL is a chance to roll a single die once again but to always accept the second result even if it is worse. Multiple REROLLS cannot be used to re-roll that second roll.

ExampleSpikes "Herbie" Written has Body Armour and his experience from an earlier game gives him a Reroll. His vehicles takes enough damage to lose his second line of boxes and Spikes' player rolls a 5 for Component destroyed check on Driver. This would normally kill Spikes but he uses his Body Armour re-roll. This comes up 6 and still kills Spikes, he cannot use that second Reroll to have another go - that second score of 6 is sacrosanct.

Experience If players wish to try and keep and improve drivers between games, then those drivers must be named. Any player who doesn't give their 1:64 alter ego a suitably post-apocalyptic name is not getting into the spirit of the thing and must be mocked. Remorselessly. Only by being named can a driver qualify for experience and take that into future games.

Drivers in destroyed vehicles are killed on a roll of 4,5,6 on d6 and clearly then the player must create a new driver and start afresh. Players can use their Rerolls to try and save a driver at this point if they have any left.

Experience is rated in terms of giving drivers a certain number of Rerolls per game.

After a game Rerolls are awarded for the following actions Deathmatch ScenarioSurviving. - 1 Reroll.Destroying at least one vehicle - 1 Reroll. Race ScenarioFinishing a race with a rolling vehicle - 1 Reroll.Winning a race - 1 Reroll.

ExampleDamnation Alex survives a Deathmatch after his Engine is destroyed. He didn't destroy another car so for his second game he starts with one Reroll. This second game is a Suicide Race which Alex finishes in first place. This grants him two extra Rerolls allowing him to start a third game with three Rerolls. Unfortunately in this third game Alex is killed so his player must start again with another character who starts with no Rerolls.

Electric CarsIn the nine years or so since A&A was originally written, alternative fuels have started to make an appearance and we actually have electric cars that are starting to look practical, at least for the commuter who lives near his workplace. What a disaster for the enthusiastic A&A player! Where we will get our exploding fuel tanks from?


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Happily, the Far East manufacturers of knock-off, low quality, dangerous laptop batteries come to our rescue with battery packs that brew up nicely, scattering corrosive fluids and molten metal across a wide area. Coupled with the fun of seeing something that is spinning at 85,000rpm come adrift of the chassis it's supposed to be securely bolted down to and we can easily that there is no need to amend the rules for electric motors.


AXLES AND ALLOYS II

APPENDIX I - Toy Car Conversion

Axles and Alloys is designed for cars of the Hot Wheels/Matchbox size. This is nominally 1:64 but in reality is nothing like as these cars are designed to be of similar sizes and sized to fit the packaging. Coincidently Matchbox collectors refer to this sizing standard as “1:Box”. Currently these cars retail for 99p in the UK and around 99c in the US. Regardless of actual scale nearly all of these cars fit into a 3" x 1.5" “footprint” so if you are basing your model cars I recommend adopting this size as a standard.

Opinion is split as to whether cars should be based or not. I am a great advocate of basing wargames pieces like tanks and artillery pieces because I feel a groundworked base complements a model and elevates it from "toy" to "wargames model". With toy cars though some players feel that a car should still be able to be "whizzed" across the table so prefer to leave cars unbased and with freely spinning axles. This tactile feel is important to some players although creates difficulty with leaving cars on slopes. Supergluing the axles up so that the wheels are locked is an option for players who don't want to base a car but don't want it rolling about either.

For the business of conversion, I usually arm myself with the following;

Thin cardboard - For rough armour plates. Easily cut and distressed. Aluminium Mesh - Intended for car bodywork repairs. Easily cut (with old scissors - new ones will be ruined very quickly) and can be glued over the glass on the car. Cocktail Sticks - Excellent spikes for Ram Plates and Heavy Ram Plates, can also have the tips removed with a hobby knife and then represent metal piping used as improvised armour. Corrugated Nails - Available in DIY/Home Improvement stores these are inch long corrugated pieces of zinc. An excellent scale representation of corrugated iron but be careful of the functional sharp edges which will need grinding or filing off before use. Warhammer 40,000 Space Marine Shoulder Pads - These can be glued over the butt end of a weapon to create a turreted weapon or used as is as large air intakes on bonnets. Superglue - Lots of this.

For the actual weapons, any firearm in any scale from 6mm to 54mm will do. Loose modern or sci-fi tank turrets (Ground Zero Games sell loose turrets for conversion purposes) make excellent light weapons for 1:64 scale cars. Scales around the 15mm to 20mm mark are roughly in scale with the cars. Handguns from larger scales make larger guns for the cars - a useful example is the Warhammer 40,000 Space Marine boltgun which, inverted and with the handgrip cut off makes an excellent weapon for this scale.

For painting, I usually spray prime the model black and work up from there with heavy drybrushing involved. Where glass is visible, the "gem" style of painting can be adopted, blending black to light blue in a rough-and-ready fashion and finishing up with a few dots or short lines of pure white to represent reflections. For an more in-depth guide to "gem" painting Google search for Battletech painting guides as this is the way that the Battletech players paint cockpit canopies.

For a wastelands/badlands type game, cars should be finished in a matt (flat) finish to represent dust and the bleaching effects of ultraviolet light. Nobody waxes cars after the apocalypse.

Another option for painting is to keep the original factory-applied paint. As this is quite glossy it can be difficult to weather so I usually spray the whole model with matt varnish to kill the sheen and key the surface for drybrushing. This, dependent upon varnish used, sometimes turns the plastic “glass” opaque and misty but serendipitously this disguises the fact that our cars have no drivers. Once done I just drybrush some weathering all over the car, concentrating on the front, the lower sections and behind the rear wheels.


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Where desired bases can be cut from balsa wood, plasticard or art board. For a desert feel, the base can be painted a sand colour, repainted with thinned PVA glue and covered in sand. The model can be then attached to the base by supergluing the underside of the wheels and applying some pressure (to get the car to sit properly on all four wheels) while the glue dries.

For a tarmac/asphalt feel, I paint the base grey then cover the top surface with some glued-down grey wet-and-dry/abrasive paper. It is helpful to cut this slightly undersize to avoid the edges fraying. Using an old brush I then drybrush the rough surface with a lighter grey. White or yellow lines can be added to the base by masking a line with masking tape and roughly damp-brushing paint over the desired area. This creates a new, worn-out feel to road markings. Once complete the car can be superglued to the base.

For based cars it is tempting to add rubble, cat litter or lichen for interest but if you do - go easy on it. It's all too easy to overload a base with interesting scatter and end up with something that looks like the car won't be able to move from it's position due to huge boulders and bushes getting in the way.

APPENDIX II - Scaling Up

If you have a modelling bent and plenty of space to play in, A&A can be scaled up to use models of a larger scale. Cheap 1:43 (again, the scale is very loosely adhered to) toy cars used to be easily available but the demise of Bburago (the company who seemed to make the majority of these cars that were on sale in the UK) has limited this. If you can acquire them though, cheap 1:43 cars fit well with 28mm figures and all 28mm accessories. The Citadel multi-part plastic figures work well - your author once made a 1:43 A&A Porsche with the top half of a Citadel Chaos Marauder leaning out of the passenger window waving an axe. For 1:43 scale games I suggest you DOUBLE all measurements.

For a larger scale still there are the 1:24 model kits made by the likes of Monogram, Tamiya and Hasegawa along with plenty of third party conversion kits. (Some US kits are actually 1:25 but this difference can overlooked for our purposes - the scale difference is still nowhere near as bad as with Matchbox cars). For this scale I suggest your TREBLE all measurements.

Remember that for larger scales you will need to provide correspondingly larger dropped weapon templates.

APPENDIX III - Biblography

If you're at all interested in this automotive combat genre then you should grow up. Failing that the following sources were inspirational and important in the drunken conception, gestation, birth, upbringing, neglect, forced expulsion from the family home, and grudging prodigal son style return of Axles and Alloys.

FilmMad Max, Mad Max 2. Essential viewing. I refuse to acknowledge the existence of any Mad Max film that has the number "3" anywhere in it's title. That never happened. At all. The Cars That Ate Paris. Low budget Aussie movie that paved the way for the original Mad Max. Cars and attendant insanity come together in a modern day take on the old "Cornish Wreckers" tale. Death Race 2000. The original. I haven't seen the modern remake as remakes of classics make me come out in hives. (Stop Press – I have now seen the remake and it isn't really a remake, so...)Death Race “2008”. Not actually a remake.

GamingDark Future (Games Workshop). Never enjoyed the game but the associated hobby interest of


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die-cast conversion was obviously seminal. Car Wars (SJG). A&A is a reaction against the increasing complexity and unwieldiness of CW, especially when it branched out into Boat Wars, Tank Wars, Invalid Carriage Wars, Shopping Trolley Wars and Golf Cart Wars. It remains the Daddy though. Full Thrust (GZG). Heavily ripped off to produce A&A.

VideogamingBadlands (Atari Games). Post-apoc Super Sprint. Smugglers Run 2 (Rockstar). Another take on Crazy Taxi but with an excellent background of smugglers using off-road cars to smuggle contraband across the borders of warzones. Tranz Am (Ultimate Play The Game). ZX Spectrum classic, essentially Rally-X without the maze. Carmageddon (SCI). The original is still the best. Cunning Stunt Bonus!

APPENDIX IV – Axles and Alloys ClassicThe original Axles and Alloys used a different method of turning that involved the use of protractors (preferably transparent or translucent ones). If you want to revert to this method, the changes are described below.

1 – Vehicles rotate once at the start of their move. All of their movement is then undertaken in a straight line.2 – A vehicle may rotate in increments of 30 degrees. These equate to numbers on a clockface – taking the vehicle's current direction of travel as being 12 o clock, the vehicle may turn anywhere between 9 o clock and 3 o clock. 10, 11, 1 an 2 o clock are simply points between these two extremes, 12 o clock is simply full speed ahead (and damn the torpedos!)3 – All turning is pre-plotted along with the move. All players pick their speed and also write which clockface they intend to turn to this turn4 – All movement is simultaneous, for collisions only the end point of vehicles matters. There is an exception to this rule, see point 55 – For running over dropped weapons ONLY, a straight line that runs over a dropped weapon counter counts as running over it. Solid items of terrain are assumed to be steered around during the move, only if the move ends upon one is it assumed that a collision occurred.6 – All shooting is simultaneous after all vehicles have been moved.7 – The first Steering damage event prevents a vehicle from steering to 9 or 3 o clock. Destroyed steering prevents a vehicle from steering at all.


Axles and Alloys II Playtest 11feb[1]

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