Apparel Internship Document

APPAREL INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP

AT

AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED

CHENNAI

SUBMITTED BY:

SHISHIR GUPTA

UDAY SHANKAR JHA

Bachelor of Fashion Technology

(Batch 2004 – 08)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGYNATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HYDERABAD

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the following students of Fashion Technology Department

specializing in Apparel Production

Shishir Gupta

Uday Shankar Jha

had carried out Apparel Industry Internship at Ambattur Clothing Limited, Chennai from

21st May 2007 to 13th July 2007.

Centre Coordinator


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The quest for knowledge provokes man to undertake many journeys in life. Through his

pursuit, there are various people who extend their invaluable support to make it a success

we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to those people whose help and guidance

made our apparel internship at ACL possible.

First of all we would like to thank Mr. Indevar Pandey (Director NIFT, Hyderabad) and

Dr. P Krishna Mohan (Registrar NIFT, Hyderabad) for giving us an opportunity to have

first hand experience of the Apparel Industry. We sincerely thank our course co-ordinator

Mr.Sanjay Shrivastava and Mr Rajasekhar (RIC,NIFT,Hyd) who took pains in arranging

for the internship and ensuring its success .

We are extremely thankful to Mr. S.V.Srinivan (HRM), Mr. Amaan, Mr. Bala and Mr.

Sairam for their cordial warmth and support that they have extended.

We are extend our sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Radha Krishnan (factory

manager), Mr. Shiva Kumar (Production Executive), Mr. Vasu Devan and Mr.Ajay for

their continuous, encouraging and patient support. Without their practical advice and

valuable experience and expertise, we would never have completed this report.


PREFACE

The Industry internship is a means to provide fresh college student a practical knowledge

about the industry work culture. The internship acted as a interface where we experienced

how the theoretical learning and input of three years of education in NIFT can be applied

to real life situations. This experience was indeed made wonderful with the help and

support given by people from India’s one of the best manufacturing unit – Ambattur

Clothing Limited.

ACL is a place where best brands are manufactured with great care and customers are

looked upon as god. Gap, Banana Republic, J Jill, J Crew, Old Navy, Ann Taylor, Espirit,

Levis, Diesel are some of the brand names which would obviously require no

introduction. Working with such a big name was really an achievement.

The document describes the structural and functional working aspects of a Garment

manufacturing unit through our experience in Ambattur Clothing Limited.


TABLE OF CONTENT

Sr. No. TOPIC Pg. No.

1 COMPANY PROFILE 1

1.1 INTRODUCTION 1

1.2 COMPANY FACT FILE 2

1.3 CAPACITY 2

1.5 LOCATION 3

1.4 PRODUCT RANGE 3-4

2 ORGANISATION CHART 5

2.1 CORE MANAGEMENT 5

2.2 PRODUCTION 6

3 H.R. AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT 7

3.1 ACL MISSION 7

3.2 WELFARE MEASURES 8

4 MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT 9

4.1 ORGANISATION HIERARCHY 9

4.2 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 10

4.2.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT STAGES 11-23

5 PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 24

5.1 PATTERN DEPARTMENT 23

5.1.1 ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY 24-25


5.1.2 FUNCTIONS 25

5.2 CAD DEPARTMENT 25

5.2.1 FUNCTIONS 25

5.2.2 PM AND GRADING DETAILS 25-26

5.3 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 27

5.3.1 COMPONENTS OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 27

5.4 MARKER DEPARTMENT 27

5.4.1 FUNCTIONS 27

6 R & D DEPARTMNET 28

6.1 FUNCTIONS 28

6.2 COMMENTS FROM BUYER 28-29

7 MIS DEPARTMENT 30

7.1 BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CENTER 30-31

7.2 PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT CENTER 31-32

8 CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 33

8.1 OBJECTIVES OF CIED 33

8.2 FUNCTIONS OF CIED 33-34

9 EXPORT DEPARTMENT 35

9.1 PRE-SHIPMENT DOCUMENTATION 35

9.1.1 AEPC DOCUMENTATION 35

9.1.2 CUSTOM DOCUMENTATION 35-36

9.2 BUYING HOUSE DOCUMENTATION 36

9.3 BUYER DOCUMENTATION 36

9.4 LETTER OF CREDIT 37

10 MATERIAL MAINTAINENCE CENTER 38

10.1 FABRIC STORE 38-39

10.1.1 FABRIC QUALITY CHECKING 39-41

10.2 TRIMS STORE 41-42

11 WASHING UNIT 43


11.1 WORK FLOW IN THE WASHING UNIT FOR BULK PRODUCTION 43-45

11.2 LAUNDRY MACHINERIES DETAIL 46

12 PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8 47

12.1 INTRODUCTION 47

12.2 FACT SHEET: ACL SP 10/8 47-48

12.3 ORGANISATIONAL CHART: SP 10/8 49

13 LAYOUTS 50

13.1 CUTTING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 50

13.2 SEWING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 51

13.3 FINISHING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 52

13.4 PACKAGING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 52

14 STORES 54

14.1 FABRIC STORE 54

14.1.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 54-55

14.2 TRIM STORE 56


15 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 58-60

15.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 61-64

15.2 M/C & TABLE DETAILS 65

15.2.1 TABLES 65

15.2.2 MACHINERY 65

15.2.3 MISCELLANEOUS 65

15.3 QUALITY CHECK IN CUTTING ROOM 66

15.3.1 S.O.P. FOR SPREADING AUDITOR 66

15.3.2 S.O.P. FOR CUTTING SUPERWISOR 67

15.3.3 S.O.P FOR FUSING MECHANIC 68

16 SEWING DEPARTMENT 69

16.1 LINE SECTION 70-72

16.2 KAJA SECTION 73



16.3 QUALITY CHECKING IN SEWING ROOM 75-76

16.4 MACHINE ANE EQUIPMENT DETAIL 77

16.4.1 MACHINES 77


17 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 78


17.2 MACHINE AND EQUIPMENT DETAIL 82

17.2.1 MACHINES 82


18 PACKAGING DEPATMENT 83


18.2 EQUIPMENT DETAILS 84

18.3 POLY BAG, BARCODE, CARTON STICKERS DETAIL 85

19 QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT 86

19.1 LIST OF THE DETAILS TO BE CHECKED 86-87

19.2 LIST OF THE DEFECT CHECKED 87

19.3 AUDIT FIOW CHART IN ACL 88

19.3.1 SAMPLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES 88

20 MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT 89

20.1 PREVENTIVE MAINTAINENCE PROCEDURE 89

20.1.1 MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE 89


20.1.2ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE 89

20.2 BREAKDOWN MAINTAINENCE 90

20.2.1 MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE 90

20.2.2 ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE 90

20.3 SPARES INVENTORY 90

20.4 ARRANGEMENT OF MACHINES & ATTACHMENTS 90

20.5 GENERAL MAINTAINENCE 91

20.6 WORKSHOP 91

21 PROJECT 92-97

22 CONCLUSION 98

APPENDIX

ANNXEURES


1. COMPANY PROFILE

1.1 Introduction: Ambattur Clothing Limited was incorporated in the year 1981 by Mr. Vijay Mahtaney

(VIJU), who is a first generation entrepreneur. The company was started with a single

factory with a work force of around 150 employees. In just 2 decades the organization has

become the fifth largest exporter of garments in India, with a total workforce of over

15000 people employed in nine production facilities managed by the company.

ACL has a very high reputation in the global market for its commitment to Quality and

delivering within the stipulated time equipped with the latest state of the art technology.

ACL specializes in the manufacture of Shirts, Trousers, Ladies wear, Jackets etc. ACL

clientele includes GAP, BANANA REPUBLIC, J JILL, J CREW, OLD NAVY, ANN

TAYLOR, ESPIRIT, LEVIS, DIESEL to name a few. “COLOR PLUS” which has a very

high reputation in the domestic market was a part of the ACL group. ‘CLOTHES

ENCOUNTER’ is a retail division of ACL, which has got its showrooms in 7 locations

across India.

In a highly demanding industry like Apparel Exports, where competition from both

domestic and abroad is fierce, Human Resource and Infrastructure decides sustenance and

success of any key player. ACL has the positive edge in both the factors, which is the

prime and sole reason for its success.

Over the years, ACL has come to signify the best in the service and dependability for

many of its clients. This resulted as a great achievement for the organisation as last year it

has crossed an annual turn over of 140 Million US dollars. The organisation has also been

rated as “Best client in India” by IDBI bank.


1.2 Company Fact File:

Name of the Company Ambattur Clothing Limited

Head office 86/ E2, Industrial Estate, Ambattur, Chennai

Establishment Year 1981

Managing Director Mr. Vijay Mahtaney

Nature of Business Export

Product Category Product MiX

Main Export Market USA, Europe, Canada, Middle East

No. of Workers 15000

Annual Turnover 140 Million US Dollars

1.3 Capacity:

Location Capacity (2005-06) Capacity (2006-07)

ACL, Chennai, India 8 Million pieces 9 Million Pieces.

ACL, Bahrain 3 Million Pieces. 3 Million Pieces.

Total 11 Million Pieces. 12 Million Pieces.


1.4 Location:

1.5 Product Range:

Ambattur provides a wide variety of products. It manufactures bottoms from basic chinos,

to denim, to classic wool pants. The factories are well equipped to sew, wash and pack

the diversified range. Even in tops, it makes the basic shirts (men’s & ladies) going on to

dress shirts and fitted garments in fabrics ranging from polyester, linen & Voile.

Buyer wise product range distribution is described as follows:

Product Buyers

Woolen pants Banana Republic, Gap, Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfiger

Two Ply Twill Chinos Banana Republic, Next, Esprit, Gap, Kohls, Eddie Bauer

Cotton / Lycra Stretch Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Lauren

Polyester / Blends Jones NY, Banana Republic, Levis, Ann Taylor.

Cotton Shirts / Tops Banana Republic, Arrow, Liz Claiborne, Eddie Bauer, Ann Taylor.

Linen Shirts / Pants Banana Republic, Liz Claiborne, Marks & Spencers, Gap

Woolen Jackets Banana Republic, Gap

Jackets Moleskin/ Cotton Banana Republic, Esprit.


2000 Machines

AmbatturChennai, India

2 Production Facilities500 Machines

Export ZoneChennai, India

1 Production facility600 Machines

ACILBahrain

Ambattur Group

Products range categorization on the basis of volume of manufacturing:

ACL product range can also be categorized product wise as follows:


2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART

2.1 Core Management:


Product Range

Women’s wear Men’s wear

Shirts

Jackets

Trousers

Shorts

Top

Skirts

Pants

Dresses

Jackets

Shorts


Mr. Vijay Mahtaney Managing Director

Production Units Operational Functions Support Functions

Mr.Behram K Director - Production

Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna

Director – Merchandising/

VP - Merchandising

Mr.Darius K Head R&D

CAD/CAM/Sampling Quality Assurance

Mr.Vinayak T Head - MMC

Mr.T Rajendran Head – Human

Resources Administration

Mr.T Subramaniam Finance & Accounts MIS, Projects & IT

Mr.V Paranthaman Head - Commercial

2.2 Production:


Mr. Behram K Director

Mr. Manohar K Babu Genreral

Manager

Mr. .Ganapathy S General Manager

Mr. Gopinath General

ManagerMEPZ Division

Mr. Krishnan, FM

Mr. Sekar/Mr. Mani, PM

SP 53

Mr. Anandraj, FMMr. Raja, PM

69 B

Mr.Radhakrishnan, FM

Mr.Shankar, PMSP 10/8

Mr .Dave, FMMr. Shaji, PM

B 12

Mr. Narasimhan, FM

Mr. Balakrishna, PM

B 13, B 15

Mr. Anand, FMMr. Prince, PM

( B 9)Mr. Rajendran PM

(B 10)

Mr. Srikanth, FMMr. Gopalan, PM

D 26

Mr. Pawan / Mr. Sudhakar, FM

3. HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT

ACL’s human resource policy stems from the underlying belief that human resource is

one of its greatest assets. These assets appropriately motivated developed and above all

professionally managed will be source for the advancement of ACL’s corporate plans.

Corporate personal policy strives to secure job satisfaction for all its employees. It is

ACL’s vision is to be the “MOST PREFERRED EMPLOYER” in garment industry and the

means employee towards this end includes:

Ensuring value driven management

Highly contemporary HR practices

Focus on candidate’s short term and long term plans

Flexibility towards horizontal and vertical movement within the organization

3.1 ACL’s Mission

To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individual’s pursuit of

dreams, equality of human dignity, ownership of organizational effectiveness and

open communication for collaborative and cohesive team work

To constantly foster strong customer orientation, highly accountable role holding

and total performance alignment across the organization

To incorporate the most effective and progressive training and development policy

which strives to meet the rising demands of the organization, wherein every

employee in the organization will undergo a minimum training on technical and

behavioural areas in a given calendar year

To constantly foster a congenial working environment which motivates every

employee in the organization to facilitate maximum output

To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly

institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and every

individual.

Employee Welfare is a continuous process and Department emphasizes on developing

suitable welfare measures, which are on par with the best industrial practices.


3.2 Welfare Measures Provided To Employees:

Medical facility: The organization has its medical centre located in SP-24, which

has an in –house medical practitioner, with renowned specialist visiting regularly.

The service is totally subsidized and the employees have to pay a very nominal

amount for registration. The centre also provides medicines at very nominal rates.

Crèche facility: The organization also offers crèche facility to the employee’s

children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age. Certified and well trained

personnel in childcare manage this facility. The centre also provides periodic

health checkups for the children.

Library facility: The organization has a corporate tie-up with British council

library for taking care of the library needs of the employees and the organization.

Every employee is eligible to avail this service and borrow books, periodicals,

magazines, videos for a period of 2 weeks.

Transportation facility: The organizations provide transportation facility where

ever it is feasible. The HR department makes all the necessary arrangements.

Company functions: Employees are called upon to participate in the any of the

company’s functions, either conducted in the premises or outside the premises on

various occasions, including physical activities conducted regularly.


4. MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

The company has exclusive teams of merchandisers for each buyer like GAP, Diesel,

Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J- Jill respectively. The major functions of the

department can be summarized as follows:

Identification of selling avenues and Buyers

Maintaining buyer’s faith and promises.

Promotion or marketing the brand to the right audience at the right time.

Coordinates different departments to achieve production within lead time.

4.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Department:


BMC HEAD (MANAGER)

MERCHANDISER

(PRODUCT DEVELOPME

NT)

Sr. MERCHANDIS

ER (PRODUCTIO

N)

Sr. MERCHANDIS

ER (PRODUCTIO

N)

Jr. MERCHANDISER

(P D)

Jr. MERCHANDISER

(P D)

MERCHANDISER (TOPS)

MERCHANDISER (TOPS) MERCHANDISER

(BOTTOMS)MERCHANDISER

(BOTTOMS)

MERCHANDISER

(SOURCING)

MERCHANDISER

(SOURCING)

Jr. MERCHANDISER

(P D)

4.2 Product Development Department

Product development department comes under marketing. The company has in-house

design studio to anticipate and react to market trends and buyer’s orders.

The product development department takes care for the steps of conversion of design from

paper to garment with actual fabric.

Diagram showing the sampling stages from design to bulk production of the garment


Design on

paper

Garment with actual

fabric

Garment design

Printing & development

Wash trials

Adoption

Critical fitFranchise

Production

Proto

4.2.1 A brief description of different stages:

Proto/ Early Book sample: It is the first sample from paper to fabric. In this the main

points which are looked into are Pattern, fit, drape, fall of the garment. Substitute trims

can be used. Then it is sent to buyer for approval. Fit comments are sent by buyer.

Measurements should be within the tolerances.

Wash trials: It is done after the fit is finalized for proto. It is the same style which can be

done on different fabric. Finalize type of wash for fabric. Sleeve modes, leg panels, shirt

mocks etc are made to test for wash trials.

Developments: Initially it is done in the form of sketches on the piece of the sample. It is

done in order to check the capacity of vendor. It is submitted to buyer for getting the

feedback on the sample.

Adoption sample: It is very important stage of production of styles in different fabric of

different colour. It should contain actual aesthetic appeal. It has actual trims and approved

wash standards. It is representative of Ambattur to the buyer. Final order placement by the

buyer is done only after the acceptance of adoption sample.

Critical fit: After the proto fit buyer would give comments, which would be incorporated

in adoption stage. In adoption stage presentation is covered, in critical fit all specifications

should be within tolerance to assess the fit of the garment. It is sent to the buyer for

confirmed order; all specifications are followed in this.

Franchise: Marketing team of buyer sends all styles of the sample to the different retail

units to predict the market response. Here, the aesthetics of the garments is important to

them than measurement.


Basic procedure in Product development

Tracker: It is the excel chart from the buyer which mentions styles allocated to different

vendors. It is a comprehensive chart which is circulated among all SVD offices (Supplier

Vendor Development office), indicating entire status of adoption sample for a particular

season. It has all the details of the styles to be made with like fabric, colour and the wash.

Garment specification sheet: It is made by the designers and sent to SVDs. Designers

provide details such as sewing, construction details, which are required to make the

garment diagrammatic introduction. It includes buyer block / pattern to be followed for

shapes and the measurement/ specifications of all the parts of a finished garment. As soon

as GSS is received, it is checked if any extra information is needed or not. For any extra

information the CSP (customer supplied product) will be circulated to CIED (central

industrial engineering department) and R&D (research n development).


GSSBOMPattern

Buyer Tracker

Research & Development

Research & Development Comments

CIEDDD

Pattern request

Sample requestMarker request

Wash request(If applicable)

Sample

Costing

SAM

BOM (Bill of materials): It contains the details of shell fabric, labels, buttons,

interlinings, threads, prints, embroidery, wash specifications, packaging details etc.

Trims ordering should have following details:

Supplier name

Buyer ref no.

Trim description label, button, colour, size, quantity

Buyer Bloch: It is the soft copy of the pattern which is necessary for pattern making on

paper.

Pattern request: After GSS, BOM and Buyer Bloch, pattern request is issued for the

preparation of computerized or manual pattern. Communication with this department is

only through marker request form.

These are the following detail in the pattern request form:

Version of pattern

Size

Fabric type

Enclosed GSS, BOM, Sample and Pinned sample

R & D comments: When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send

merchandising department comments. They will also give costing comment which can be

done on style without affecting design and style. These comments to be enclosed with

sample request.

Sample request: As soon as fabric and trims are required sample request is issued, which

contains following details:

Style no

Pattern version to be used

Main fabric details with swatch

Labels detail

Button detail

Other detail like zip, tape, lace

Colour, size wise quantity of samples required


Wash details

Special instructions

Enclose the copy of GSS, BOM and R&D comments.

Once sample request is given the following sequence is followed:

Store has to handover the fabric and trims required for a sample request

Pattern cutting: Here the cutting of fabric as per the pattern takes place

Embroidery and printing(if applicable)

Lining issual

Buttons, Hooks, Contrast thread required issued

Washing(if applicable)

Finishing: After washing samples will be checked for quality, ironed and packed

After samples reaches merchandiser (Product development team) it is needed to cross

check the samples with GSS and BOM and fill the details of the sample on its label and

tag. Now sample is ready to be dispatched to the buyer.

Wash request: After sample is stitched it has to be sent for washing. It is sent with an

enclosed wash request form to instruct the washing department with the wash required on

sample.

Costing: Before sample is dispatched it is needed to give costing for the same. The

costing of the sample is done in each stage of the sample like proto adoption etc.

The following points are considered while costing:

Fabric consumption and price

Trims consumption and price

Wash price

Printing and embroidery price

SAM given by CIED


Marker request: After receiving the details about the fabric for a particular style

merchandising department has to determine the consumption of a fabric which is given by

CAD/CAM (Marker department).

The Marker request should contain the following details:

Style no.

Pattern to be used for marker

Cuttable width of the fabric

Repeat size of the fabric with swatch

Placement of fabric

Matching standard for stripe and plaid(checked) fabric

Add information such as NAP up down fabric, one way or two way fabric

Based on above details, marker department will give the consumption (wastage is added

with this and called yield yardage) of the fabric for that particular style.

Matching standard: For stripes and plaid fabrics, Banana republic has some matching

strategy at various parts of a garment to give nice appearance while wearing. Those

standards have big impact on yield yardage. It is always better to give a swatch to avoid

confusion.

To finalize the costing of sample following factors are taken in consideration:

Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%-

10%)

Contrast fabric factor- Contrast fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage

Trims factor-Trims consumption * Price + Wastage

Printing and embroidery prices

Washing

Cutting and manufacturing charges(CM)

Flow Chart for Production



Proto

Bulk GSS, BOM & ACT

CPS

Fabric bookingTrims ordering

Approval

Yellow tag

Green tag

PCD

Final Inspection

Rev M

Size Set sample

PP meeting

Approval

Top sample

Shipment sample Shipment

Trim card approval,Thread approval,shade band approvalInterlining report, FTP, GCR

Wash sample

AD sample

GPT sampleYes

Yes

No

No

PRODUCTION

After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order through ACT (All channel trackers).

It is an excel format which has the details about confirmed styles, orders quantity and

delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM is sent by the buyer. Then the costing is done

again and it is very tight to BOM. The costing is done in CPS format which should be

very tight & competitive. The Product Development department has to hand over the

samples to the concerned production merchants to carry over.

Confirmed Program Sheet: After receiving the bulk GSS and BOM, the costing for bulk

is done and same is sent in a format called CPS to the buyer. This includes all the details

about product like fabric details with price, delivery details and mode and Time & Action

(T&A) plan of that style.

Quantity Indication: Once orders are confirmed, indication of the new order to

management, import & export department to plan for production & spacing is given. For

that we have to give details like style no, colour ways, SAM, order quantity per colour

way, delivery date, and mode of delivery.

Time & Action Plan: This is the plan through which merchandisers commit the exit dates

of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M, yellow tag, green tag, advertisement

sample & shipment sample) to buyer to meet the delivery required by them. Buyer will

give the delivery as IN-DC date. So, we have to work backward & give the dates for

sample exit. From the given details we can have the idea to give dates & will change time

to time for different cases:-

Ex-country: - 35 days back from In-DC.

Ex-factory:-6 days for sea-shipment and 2 days for air shipment.

PCD (package date):- 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew program and

45 days for an O/D (over dye) program.

Yellow tag exit date: - 12vdays before PCD.

Revised M exit date:-20 days before yellow tag ED(exit date)

Proto Exit date:-20 days before revised M ED.

PP meeting: - 10 days after PCD.

TOP exit date:- 2 weeks before shipment


Order Registration: For order registration Software called Business Management Centre

(in house development) is used. All the details about all the orders from sampling to the

shipment and all the data/ status required can be immediately seen from it.

Fabric Booking: It includes arranging material required for the production. The fabric

required for the particular order is ordered based on yield yardage received from

CAD/CAM. Since Ambattur Clothing Ltd. (banana republic dept) is dealing with

nominated supplier, SVD will give the indication (in form of fabric cutter/ fabric order

confirmation) FOC about the fabric quantity to the mills which should be cross checked

and confirmed to the mill by the department and then have to follow up, cross check some

of the internal procedures like Material Required Chart (MRC), Raw Material Order

(RMO), Performa Invoice (PI) from the mills and purchase order (PO). While ordering the

fabric for bulk, the quantity and delivery of tailoring / sample yardages (for making the

samples) are also specified.

Trims Ordering: Trims like interlining, labels, tags, buttons, price tags and packing

materials to the concerned purchase department through MRC’s (Material requirement

charts). The MRC’s are raised by PPC (production & planning co-ordination) and

merchandisers have to overview the internal procedures like PI (purchase invoices) from

suppliers and PO’s (purchase orders).

BOM & GSS Classification: As soon as the department receives the BOM and GSS, it

has to be studied carefully and asked about the classification within 48 hrs.

Shrinkage Sample: When washed fabric shrinks, it needs to be measured and examined

properly to maintain the specification that buyer wants for the wash programs. Normally

the shrinkage is checked in both warp and weft direction of the fabric which will be added

in the pattern so that it meets/hits the specifications required by the buyer. It is very

important to study the shrinkage on different roles of the fabric as it will differ from roll to

roll or takka to takka. Normally one shrinkage study sample is made before doing any

sample valid for specification/fit to avoid the last time rejection due to measurement

problems and this is totally for internal purpose.


Proto Sample: After getting the classification for GSS & BOM merchandisers arrange the

samples to be sent to the buyer. First stage sample of production in base size which is only

meant for fit, specification and fabric. In this sample Trims are not actual. Buyer will

review the sample and give their approval or comments on fit.

Revised M Sample: If buyer is giving his comments to a proto, another sample in the

same base size incorporating all the comments is made and sent for approval which is

known as Revised M sample. Again buyer will review the sample and give their approval

which will be called as Revised M. Again buyer will review the sample and give their

approval or comments.

Wash Sample: In tailoring yardage, sample in base size (normally in 4 pieces) is made

with actual wash required for wash approval. The same will be sent to SVD, Delhi and

then approved and then forwarded to the buyer. The approved wash should be maintained

till the end of the order.

Garment Package Test (GPT) Sample: This is exclusively done for Banana republic as

the buyer has set some standards for their products in all the aspects. Banana republic has

nominated some laboratories like ITS Mumbai and BY/MTL Bangalore. So before

starting production the garments to be tested and passed for its qualities like fabric, trims

and stitching quality from those laboratories. Here they will test the sample for fabric

weight, fabric content, flammability of fabric, tear strength, tensile strength, pilling

resistance, rain test, belt loop test, pocket attaching strength, button attachment strength,

snapping/unsnapping strength and various colour fastness tests. To ensure the quality of

the product the department has to make and send the sample as per the labs requirement (4

pieces in dark colour way + 3 pieces in other colours -all in basic sizes).

Yellow Tag or Sealer Sample: Once proto/ Revised M is approved by buyer, the

department has to make a sample same as the Revised M with actual fabric and trims to

get it sealed by SVD Chennai. That is meant for all actual trims, specifications and washes

and to be followed by factory for production.


Green Tag Sample: There are times when all the trims required to make the yellow tag

sample are not received. In that case the department makes the yellow tag with substitute

trims and get SVD sample in any colour with actual trims and wash. This is basically done

to reduce the production delay.

Advertising Sample: In the meanwhile the department has to send the advertisement

samples (12 pieces) as instructed by the buyer for their catalogue/Marketing team. It is for

presentation purpose so it contains actual trims and fabric.

Size Set: All samples made till this stage After PCD (Production commencement date-

Date on which factory starts working on an order) are made in the base size only.

Therefore, before starting the production factory under goes pilot run that is doing a trial

production and making garments in all sizes. And one piece from each size will be sent to

SVD office to set the approval. The department should get the approval for size set by pre-

production meeting.

Pre Production Meeting: After pilot run and before starting the production the PP

meeting is been conducted at SVD offices to discuss the critical points of the particular

order.

Top of Production (TOP) Sample: As soon as the production starts TOP samples in base

size (4 pieces) are sent to SVD offices and then to buyer to show them the production

product quality. If no comment is received within 48hrs then the production will continue.

Shipment Sample: Samples from bulk are sent to SVD covering all sizes to represent the

shipment. It will contain the actual trims and packaging material and exact wash.

Package File: Normally factory will be located away from headquarters so in turn to

avoid wastage of time in asking the classifications from merchants and to avoid making

mistakes. It will have to give all the details regarding the particular order for which there

is a checklist which were generated from the past experience. All the details should be put

in the package file.


PRODUCTION PACKAGE FILE CHECKLISTS:

1. Approved Yellow Tag(Sealer)/Pre production sample

2. Full size set pattern and version written on index ( If the style carries embroidery

or print the layout has to be passed on to the size set patterns while sending to the

factory with grading).

3. Index

4. R & D package comment

5. Final updated buyer BOM with CSP date

6. Update internal BOM(ACL)

7. Final GSS with CSP date

8. All fit comments and buyer approvals highlights for constructions

9. Sealer comments and R&D reply for sealer comment

10. Trim cards approved by buyer merchant BMC containing:

a. Thread trim card with all thread qualities, colours, shade approvals and

placement

b. Label trim card with all labels required for all constructions

c. Layout for reference

d. Buttons, snaps, tapes, elastic, zippers etc

e. Price tickets, match books, stickers, hang tag etc.

f. If there are many trims missing from the above mentioned details of the

trims are given

(i) Fabric swatch card (Approved by buyer merchant)

g. Fabric swatches (shell, pocketing, lining, binding, contrast etc). In all

colours with selvedge and right side and nap direction marked on it (where

fabric is plaid or striped then centre front line to be marked).

h. Approved shade bands for fabrics, if not available attach the option sent for

approval.

i. Interlining swatches

(i) Work order

11. PO’s (work order) with CSP date

(i) Reports

12. Fabric package test report for all fabric qualifies (for small quantity where it is not

required, attach the waiver)


13. GPT report

14. Interlining test report

15. General conformance report for styles having snaps, hook with mocks

16. Thread advisory report

17. Fabric shrinkage report

APPROVALS

Wash approval/band

Digitals for folding instructions of a garment approved from buyer

Pressing standard

Labels and packing trim placement approval with digitals

Print/Embroidery/Swatch with approval for placement, color, artwork appearance

and technique

Matching standard and mini marker for stripes and plaid fabrics

Zipper grading

Any other style specific issues

Internal BOM: It is a system generated BOM in BMC which has all the details about the

particular order like fabric detail, trim detail, order style, PO and the status of the raw

material etc. Shortly it has the complete up to date status of that particular order. This is

circulated to the factory, stores (SP-76) by PPC at time of production for the follow up.

Trim Card: This is swatch card which has the swatch or samples of all fabric and trims

such as labels, buttons, zipper, thread, interlining; tape etc. a set of swatch card has to be

sent to the SVD offices before starting the production and get their approval. Same will

be sent to factories along with the package file for their reference and to avoid confusion.

Thread Advisory Report: Some fabrics are sent to the thread supplier and the quality of

the thread which is to be used for that fabric is taken. Based on that PDD have to match

the thread for fabric and get approval from buyer. The approved thread panel should be

kept in the package file.

Shade Band: Since the yarns for bulk will be dyed more than once, the scope for

different shades of colour is more. As soon as the company receives the fabric, fabric


stores will segregate the shade, inform the quantity per shade, and then send the band

(collection of different shade swatches) to buyer and get the approval.

Interlining Report: To check the operating temperature and pressure of the interlining to

a particular fabric and to choose the correct interlining supplier and get their

suggestions/advice for the interlining which should be included in the package file.

List of forms used at different stages:

Sample request form

Wash request form

Pattern request form

Marker request form

Short Quantity: After package file is handed over to the factory, factory will start pilot

run, size set samples, TOP samples and shipment samples. At the time of production or

end of the production, factory will inform us the short quality to the actual required

quality, the same to be informed and get approved from buyer beforehand.

Final Inspection: Once the goods are ready, QA from SVD will come and inspect the

goods. Once it is approved, the goods can be moved from the factory premises to the

buyer nominated forwarder and then the goods will be shipped to the buyer.

Shipment Advice: Once the goods are shipped, the details about the shipment like

invoice, delivery challan, Bill of shipping or Air fare & vessel / flight details etc to the

buyer is taken care by Export department. They are also taking care of payment related

activities.

5. PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The pre production department is the assemblage of four different departments which

work in coordination. A brief description of the different component is given below:

5.1 Pattern Department

It is headed by Mr. Chandrasekhar, Mr. Gopal Kumar and Mr. Ganesh Kumar who

handles different buyers such as GAP, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J

Jill.

5.1.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Pattern making & CAD Department:

The basic procedure followed in the department for a new order can be summarized as

follows:

New patterns are made

Buyer amendments are incorporated

Shrinkages are added

Grading is done

These patterns are used in sampling and sent to the buyer for approval, and also

sent to factories for production

Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment.

5.1.2 Functions


Technical head

Senior pattern maker

Junior pattern maker

Assistant pattern maker

The senior pattern makers work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts, trousers,

dresses etc.

The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns,

grading and amendments

The pattern assistants trim the tracing received from the buyer and make templates

Consumption of lace, webbing tapes draw-cord etc are also given by this

department

All factory amendments are also done by the pattern department

5.2 CAD Department

This department is affiliated to the pattern department. The entire computer aided patterns,

amendments, shrinkage and markers are done in this department.

5.2.1 Functions

The senior CAD technicians work on the new patterns, amendments, shrinkage

and grading.

The junior CAD technicians work on digitizing the patterns, tracings, duplications

etc.

5.2.2 Pattern making and Grading details:

Time taken to make a new pattern : 4 hours(Manual), 6 hours (computerized)

Time taken in grading: 8 hours (Manual), 6 hours (computerized)

Total time taken by marker department to give final pattern : 2days

Software used by CAD department : GGT (Gerber Garment Technology)

Type of marker planning: Mixed marker

Working flowchart of the Pattern making & CAD Department


Merchant gives pattern request form

Pattern version-A is made and given to the merchandisers

Merchant gives changes as per buyer

Pattern version-B is made (if required)

Cross checking

Costing (to book the order) and sampling patterns

Adding shrinkage factor

Checking

Quality Audit

.

5.3 Sampling Department


Rejection

This department is headed by Mrs. Prasanna kumari. T. This department is equipped with

state of art machineries. This department is self sufficient with a stores, cutting section,

button, and button hole section, finishing, home laundry and embroidery. This department

is segregated buyer wise and each unit is self sufficient with a sampling supervisor and a

quality person who understands the quality standards for their particular buyers.

5.3.1 Components of the Sampling department:

Stores- The stores in sampling keeps account of all the sampling fabric and trims

issued to them. They issue the same to cutting as per the sampling requests.

Cutting section- This department is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics,

pocket interlinings.

Sewing section

Button and button hole section

Finishing/pressing/checking section

5.4 Marker Department

This department works on markers done at costing, amendment and final stages to derive

on the fabric consumption of a garment. All factory lay markers and centrally issued from

marker and CAD department, markers are taken at costing and fit stage

5.4.1 Function

The senior marker will maintain the centralized record from sampling, pattern and

markers

They will file all Patterns by buyer wise and the pattern request form also

Marker maker they mainly concentrated on costing, they have responsibility to

check out the consumption level.

6. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT


The research and development department has different roles in case of different buyers.

However the basic functions of research & development department can be summarized as

6.1 Function

Review the Tech pack for producing a fusibile trims details.

Reviewing a fit for the samples.

Giving an alternative option for some difficult operation.

Giving a fit comment properly to the production people.

Updating the tech pack regularly.

Giving guidance for factory production.

6.2 Comments from Buyer

Fit comment it special for fit of the garment.

Construction comment.

Specification comment.

Trims details.

After getting the GSS and BOM from buyer this will send to three department Research

and development department and CIED department and patter making department.

In research and development they will make costing for each and every process.

They will check the capacity of machines and ability of the workers of factory for

a particular style.

Whether the design and trims of the garment is feasible or not .if the style is

feasible how can will do it in a effective manner .

From sampling development to the end of the production R&D department have

a responsible in each and every step.

While production if the factory people have any doubt in the operation R&D

department will come and clear the doubt regarding the production and

productivity

If there any technical problem R&D department will analysis the problem and

find a proper solution for that problem.


While sending the sample to the buyer we have to attach the comment from R&D

department.

7. MIS DEPARTMENT


The company uses centralised information system which is developed by the core IT team

of the company. The company has two tier integrated information system to track the over

all production with the management, planning, Sourcing and inventory facilities. All the

production and the support facilities are interconnected by optical fibre on LAN network.

The information system can be divided in two parts i.e.

1. BMC (Business Management Centre ) and

2. Production Management System

7.1 Business Management Centre

It is the data entry software package used by the Merchandizing and marketing

Department. Each employee of the department has a separate user Id by which they can

access the system. The range of access is pre- defined so that no one can interfere outside

their Domain. The Package function details are pictorially shown below in the screen

shots of the package interface:

Screen shorts showing different menu options of BMC

In this merchandiser can click on any of the menu option in the interface according to the

need. E.g. if he clicks on the Order Registration again following interface will Come with

all the order registration details along with the list of people who are responsible for the

job and can do data entry. For all other users it is read only facility.


7.2. Production Management System: It is also a data entry software package

used to record information at production facilities. This Package function details are

pictorially shown below in the screen shots of the package interface:

Screen shorts showing Login Screen


Screen shorts showing different menu options of PMS

8.

CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT


Industrial Engineering department acts as the bridge between the corporate office and the

production floor. It helps marketing people in understanding the complexity of the product

for accurate negotiation of manufacturing cost with buyer against the production cost

involved for the product based upon the factory efficiency.

8.1 Objectives of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Establish standard method for the operation.

Establish standard work content for a garment.

Reduce the work content there by reducing the manufacturing cost.

Increase utilization of available resource like man, machine and work space.

Making production system more effective.

8.2 Function of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Analyzing the work content of a garment at pre-proto stage for CM’S (Cutting

and Manufacturing Charges) with option to negotiate for CM’S

After order confirmation the evaluation garment is reanalyzed for better &

economical methods to reduces the negotiated CM’S in order to stay in safe

margin

At production stage the factory’s achievements are being closely monitored

and recorded, there by creating the awareness of factory status and requirement

to improve its standard and in benchmarking its achievements.


Role of Central Industrial Engineering Department


Buyer

Merchandizing

CIED

H R D

R & D

Sampling

Planning

Factory

MIS

Accounts/Finance

9. EXPORT DEPARTMENT

Export department receives delivery schedule from marketing department and confirm the

product category, quantity, delivery date and destination of orders with the concerned

merchandiser. The following documents are been prepared.

9.1 Pre Shipment Documentation

9.1.1 AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council) Documentation

(a) Preparation of following documents and submitting the same to AEPC

Commercial invoice

Shipping bill

Visa format

AEPC annexure

(b) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment

(c) Follow up with AEPC and receive following documents

Endorsed shipping bill

Visa with necessary entries

(d) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment

9.1.2 Custom documentation

(a) Selection of C & F (Carriage & Freight) agent

(b) Coordinate with C & F agent and decide on shipping line

(c) Preparation of following documents and the same shall be handed over to the C & F

agent days before the planned shipment:

Customers invoice

GRI

Packing slip

Shopping bill

Order copy

(d) Follow up with the C & F agent and ensures that the above documents are submitted to

the customs days before the shipment.


(e) Coordinate with C & F agent and receive the following document from him

Bill of lading/ airway bill

Freight cargo receipt

GRI duplicate

9.2 Buying House Documentation

Preparation of following documents and sends the same to buying house not later than

days before shipment

(a) Invoice

(b) Packing list

(c) Visa copy

(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill

(e) Single country declaration

(d) QC report

Follow up with buying house and receive inspection certificate not later than days before

inspection.

9.3 Buyer Documentation

Preparation of following documents and forward to buyer

(a) Commercial invoice

(b) Packing list (colour wise and size wise quantity)

(c) Inspection certificate

(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill

(e) Any other declaration required by buyer (e.g. Certificate of origin, single country

declaration)

(d) Ensuring the above document reach buyer in time and receiving feed back

(e) Providing any other information required by the buyer.


9.4 Letter Of Credit (LC)

After issuing PO buyer will approach to their bank to open LC and accordingly buyer

bank will issue LC and same will be send to manufacture bank. Then the manufacturer’s

bank will hand it over to the manufacturer.

Then the manufacturer will go through the LC and if all the terms and conditions are

correct manufacturer will ask their bank to send message to the buyer’s bank as LC is

accepted.


10. MATERIAL MAINTENANCE CENTRE

ACL has a centralized fabric and trims store known as Material Maintenance centre

(MMC), situated at SP-76, Industrial Estate, Ambattur. It is one of the most specious

facilities in the company. Its function starts from receiving the fabric and trims, their

inspection, checking the shade variation and shrinkage percentage roll length verification

till the fabric and trim issue to the respective production unit.

Department receives the purchase order of the fabric and trims, purchased by the purchase

department. Goods entered at the gate are checked physically as per the Purchase Order.

It has two separate departments for receiving the fabrics and trims respectively. The basic

work flow in the MMC can be described as follows:

10.1 Fabric store:

After verification with concerned merchant, Pre GIN (Goods Inward Notes) is raised

against the supply invoice. Material is received in forms of bales. Each bale carries 100-

200 fabric rolls. Now bales are opened and all the data is entered in the computer and

based upon Pre Gin a particular bar code no is assigned to each roll which is called GIN.

Rolls are stored width wise and colour wise in racks.

Total rolls are checked any if there is any shortage, information is sent to Purchase

department.


Fabric / Trims Receiving

Fabric / Trims checking

Fabric / Trims test report

Fabric / Trims issue

The MMC has in-house fabric testing laboratory, which is equipped with high precision

and state of art machinery. Lab makes the FIR (First information report of the fabric

received). With in three days of receiving of fabric, lab has to perform all the tests and has

to submit the report to the head. After all the tests, report is made and sent to merchant

whether to accept it or to reject it. After his remarks, swatches are made and sent to the

reputed labs for same tests. After passing from them the fabric is distributed to the

production factories. List of the tests performed by the MMC lab are as follows:

TEST EQUIPMENTCount Determination Beasley meter

Construction Pick glassWashing fastness Laundromat

Perspiration fastness PerspirometerCrocking Crocking meter

Pilling test Pilling testerTearing strength Tearing strength tester

Flammability Flame BurnerpH pH meter

Colour matching Visual Matching

10.1.1 Fabric quality checking: The universally accepted 4-point inspection system is

used to check the fabrics. After receiving the fabric half a meter, full width fabric is cut.

Fabric swatch is cut from this piece for shade identification and to find roll wise

shrinkage. Roll no is marked on each swatch for identification. The fabric is scanned for

all the defects. All the detail of defects with the Non Conformance Report is made and is

issued to concerned merchandiser for the approval. A minimum 10% checking is done of

each received lot.

Checking process: the checking process constitute following steps which are as follows:

Fabric is being checked as per standard fabric swatch approved by the

merchandiser.

Fabric rolls are checked both in the flat table as well as machine so that the faults,

which could not get detected in the flat table, can be detected on the machine and

vice-versa.

Fabrics are being checked for selvedge to selvedge and centre to selvedge shade

variation.

Defective samples are sent to concerned merchandiser for approval/disapproval.


Preparation of Non Conformance Report, which highlights all the defects and

characteristics of the fabric, is issued to the concerned merchandiser. He decides

whether to accept or to reject the fabric roll.

Fabrics are inspected and all defects are marked with stickers for identification.

Checked are classified as sounds, seconds or rejected.

Shade identification: The unit has a separate section for fabric shade identification.

Where fabrics are segregated into different shades. It is done by experts based on

their experience.

Shrinkage checking: A square piece of fabric (45 X 45 cm.) is taken for shrinkage

checking. Over locking is done on all four sides to avoid edge fraying. Four points

are marked using a template to check both warp wise and weft wise shrinkage.

After washing in desired conditions the specimen is taken back to checking section

and distance between the two points is noted by a shrinkage scale.

Width checking- Width of the roll is checked with the help of specimen cut from

the roll and record is maintained.

Note:

Before sending bulk fabric, supplier has to send a pilot yardage of same fabric to

us where the defects and quality of the fabric is analyzed. If this pilot yardage is

meeting the buyer’s standard, only then bulk order is given to the supplier,

otherwise report is sent to concern merchandiser to sort out the issue.

List of few fabric defects generally found:


S.No. defects

1. weaving defect

2. broken warp

3. oil stains

4. slubs

5. warp line

6. crease marks

7. stopping marks

8. knots

9. holes

10. broken weft

11. weft line

10.2 Trims store:

After receiving trims the department raises the Goods Inward Note (GIN) against the

Purchase order of each item. Makes the swatch card with all necessary information like -

PO No, GIN no, buyer, supplier and style. It is sent to the concerned merchant for

approval. After verification Quality checking department checks the quality of trims

received as follows:

Checks 2% of received quantity, if it is ok, trims are sent to issue department to

issue it to production units.

Otherwise checks 5%. In this 5%, if rejection is less than 2%, forward it to issue

department.

Again if checking fails it Checks 10%. In this if rejection is more than 2%, NCR

(Non Conformance Report) is made and sent to concerned merchant.

Note:

A report at each stage is sent to the concerned merchant for approval/rejection.

For rejected trims, debit note is made and sent to accounts department mentioning

P.O no, quantity, rate, amount.

Thread consumption: Department also finds out the thread consumption. After

finding out thread consumption it is confirmed with the concerned factory. Factory


finds out the consumption at its side. Comparison of both is done and approval is

given to the minimum.

11. WASHING UNIT


The Company has recognized the importance of having state of the art wet processing

facility to backup its world class production facility. To achieve this goal, the company

has brought experts from other countries to develop washes and to manage the laundry.

This is also complemented with Capital investment in buying world class washing

equipments.

The company has centralized washing unit to fulfil its all washing and wet processing

needs, located at D-16, Industrial Estate, Ambattur.

In general the quality of the laundry is related to many factors such as:

Quality of the equipment used: washer, dryer etc

Quality of the chemical used: all imported from Europe

The follow up and proper execution of the laundry procedure with well trained

workers and staff, the quality of finished goods get enhanced.

11.1 Work flow in the washing unit for the bulk production

Goods Reception : All the goods after receiving are 100% checked for quality and

entered to the laundry production control systems into the daily washing status sheet

using this system we are able to know and control how many garments are received,

washed, issued and in progress for wet process as well as dry process.

Unwashed Quality Audit: Goods received into laundry for wash are checked before

wash for any quality issue such as fabric defects, sewing quality, uncut sewing thread etc.

100% check need to be done for 1st bulk including 32 pieces, and 10% for normal

production. Only when the goods are perfect it will be cleared for wash. If any defects are

found, it will be registered into the Pre-wash quality check reports sheets, and the

defective garments are kept aside. The Pre-wash audit form is then signed by the quality

assurance manager from the laundry and forwarded to manufacturing manager and QC

manager along with the defective goods for their inspection. We wait for the comment

from the sewing plant whether we can proceed with wash or return the goods for the repair

work. After getting approval from the manufacturing plant, the pre-wash quality check

report form get signed by FM and QM and returned back to laundry than the goods are

proceed for wash.


First bulk wash: No garment is allowed for washing without the approved wash

standards and the shade bands for the same style, after receiving all this, the wash recipe is

taken from the technical laundry department. The production and quality control work

sheet and recipe worksheet is created by the laundry systems in charge, attached to the

goods and handed over to the washing supervisor for the wash. Only for the first bulk

wash, the work sheet printed is green in colour for auditor’s identification. On the first

bulk, it is 100% quality check up for shade, hand, feel etc.

Bulk wash: Few garments representing the shade range from the first bulk will be

forwarded to the merchandiser for approval before laundry proceeds into further wash. For

any other issue not related to washing, they will inform the factory accordingly for future

care.

Merchandiser will sign the first bulk wash garment and will be accordingly to the laundry

for containing the bulk wash. The final production and quality control worksheet, repair

worksheet and chemical registration slip will be created into systems for the balance bulk

production.

Post wash quality: After drying, the goods are subjected to quality check at the laundry

by QC team. The goods are checked for the shade, hand feel, defects etc. the % of the total

garments check is starting from 20% for the basic wash ( rinse wash, soft wash) up 100%

for stone wash, dyeing and denim. The goods, which are not satisfying the shade, hand

feel, are sent back for re-wash, the number of the rewash garment is mentioned in the final

QC report as correctable pieces, for the goods satisfying the approved standard and shade

are packed and sent to manufacturing plant.

After that the travelling work sheet will be finalized and saved into laundry quality

systems computer.

Rinses and softener wash – 20% check

Enzyme wash, enzyme stone, denim and dye – 100% check

In general for the major defect as shade, holes, streaks etc. They stop washing until the

problem get resolved by looking again through the washing recipe and doing trails in

sampling before proceeding for bulk.


Quality Department: The data from travelling work sheets are saved into the systems

that automatically generate the final QC report for daily production.

The laundry QC supervisor will analyze the final quality report of each order and update

the laundry on the quality issue and get it signed from QC manager and FM for further

action if it needs to be taken.

This final report allowed the production people to control better what they are producing

and stop the problem in the earlier stage. By this method the % of reject due to washing

are minimized.

Chemical Stocks: By using the chemical requisition slip, the quantity of all chemicals

has been saved through laundry systems, and automatically they will be able to check and

control their chemicals stocks daily.

List of washes given in the unit:

S.No. WASH S.No. WASH

1 Enzyme wash 22 Soda wash2 Enzyme wash-mild 23 Soap wash3 Enzyme wash-heavy 24 Water wash4 Bio wash 25 Crinkle wash5 Band wash 26 Distress wash6 Detergent wash 27 Colour fixing wash7 Stone wash 28 Mud wash8 Bio polish 29 Paper effect wash9 Anti pilling bio wash 30 Caustic wash10 Softner wash 31 Leather finishing wash11 Denim wash 32 Rubber finishing wash12 Denimax wash 33 Desize wash13 Dip wash 34 Starch wash14 Silicon wash 35 Ice wash15 Ball wash 36 Feather finish wash16 Silicon ball wash 37 Silky wash17 Rubber ball wash 38 Carbonised enzyme wash18 Optical brightness wash 39 Zinc vodka wash19 Vintage wash 40 Acid wash20 Tea stain wash 41 Stone enzyme wash21 Bleach wash

11.2 Laundry Machineries Details:


Machine TypeBulk Wash

M/C Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods

No of M/C

Tenello 400 kg 120 kg 4Ramson 200 kg 60 kg 2Ramson 150 kg 60 kg 4

Machine Type sample Wash

M/C Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods

No of M/C

Ramson 35 kg 15 kg 4Ramson 20 kg 10 kg 3Ramson 5 kg 3 kg 2Ramson 3 kg 2 kg 1Tonello 17 kg 10 kg 1

Machine Type Dryer Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods

No of Dryer

Ramson 100 kg 60 kg 24

Note:

In general garments are dried between 55 to 60 degree centigrade and for the

delicate fabric the temperature followed would be 50 degree centigrade.


12. PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL –SP 10/8

12.1 Introduction:

The second stage of our internship includes the study of manufacturing processes in the

Production unit. We had been allotted to carry out our study and project in the SP – 10/8.

The Unit is located on the third main road in the Ambattur industrial Estate at a distance

of 2.5 Kilometres from the Head office. It was earlier known as Southern Garments taken

over by ACL in April, 2000. The unit is a bottoms manufacturing Facility with the

production capacity of average 2000 pieces per day.

12.2 Fact Sheet - Ambattur Clothing Limited - SP - 10/8Total Area & Dept - Wise Area Of Facility

DEPARTMENT AREA ( SQ FT )

CUTTING 7268.19

PRODUCTION 11698.66

FINISHING 5550.83

COMPRESSOR & BOILER ROOM 748.52

GENERATOR ROOM 769.97

LADIES TOILET 734.37

GENTS TOILET 174.94

CANTEEN 2152.95

TOTAL AREA ( INCLUDING UNUSED ) 29098.43APPROX

HEIGHT OF THE COMPOUND WALL ( in feet ) 7.5


Dept - Wise , Sex Wise Employee Strenght Of Facility

DEPARMENTWORKERS STAFF

MEN WOMEN MEN WOMENADMINISTRATION 0 0 4 2

CHECKING 10 16 1 0CUTTING 4 28 3 2IRONING 14 4 0 0

KAJA BUTTON 2 20 0 1MAINTENANCE 3 0 5 0

PACKING 5 4 4 0PRODUCTION 4 0 1 0

SEWING 27 202 9 1

STAIN - REMOVING 3 2 0 0STORES 3 1 2 0

TRIMMING 1 21 0 0

TOTAL 76 298 29 6

TOTAL STRENGHT OF THE FACTORY 409

Amenities Provided In The FacilityTOTAL NO OF FIRE EXITS 11

TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 53

INDUSTRIAL TYPE EMERGENCY LIGHTS 13

FIRE ALARM POINTS 13

FIRST AID BOXES ( FULLY LOADED ) 6TOILETS (MEN) 6TOILET (WOMEN) 20CANTEEN CAPACITY 150MEDICAL CENTRE CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24

DAY CARE CENTRE CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24

CommitteesNo. OF MEMBERS FREQUENCY OF MEETING

GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE 13 BI-MONTHLY

CANTEEN COMMITTEE 15 BI-MONTHLY

SAFETY COMMITTEE 14 BI-MONTHLY

12.3 Organizational Chart- SP 10/8


13. LAYOUTS


Mr. Mohan K Babu

General Manager

Mr. Radhakrishnan

Factory Manager

Mr. ShankarProduction Manager

Mr. Christopher FranklinQuality

Manager

Mr. Vasudevan

Defect Analyser

Mr. Wilson Store Incharge

Mr. MohanCutting Incharge

Sewing Line Incharge

( 3 )

Mr. Ramakrshna

Finishing Incharge

Supervisor( 4 per line)

Mr. MillerPackaging Incharge

Mr. BabuIroning

Incharge

Mr. SigamaniButton and Button hole

Quality Controller / Checkers

(5)

13.1 Cutting Department Layout:

13.2 Sewing Department Layout


13.3 Finishing Department Layout


13.4 Packaging Department Layout


14. STORES


The unit has in-house store for the fabric and trims issued from the MMC which stores the

goods for the production period. The store is divided into two sections:

1. Fabric store

2. Trims store

14.1 Fabric Store:

Process flow:

14.1.1 A brief description of the process flow:

Fabric receiving: Fabric required for the production is issued from the MMC in the roll

form. The factory maintains Goods receiving note (GRN) for the every issue. The GRN

contains following information:

Buyer no:

Style no:

Colour:

Width:

Date Factory Delivery

challan no.

Length(in

metres)

Grand Total Total no of

Rolls

Fabric storage: The fabrics received are first shade wise segregated and placed on the

storage racks. However, final segregation is done according to the shade as well as the


Fabric issue to cutting

Fabric received from MMC

Fabric storage

shrinkage percentage. The fabric rolls contains specification stickers which contains

following information:

BARCODE

PO No.( purchase order number) Lf No.(Ledger folio no.)

Code Colour

Bale/DC Qty/Mtr

Po Width Actual width

Weight Less:0.5:

Supplier code No. Batch

Fabric Description

Count Construction

Takka No. Buyer code

The shade and shrinkage family name is manually written over each roll after receiving

the shrinkage report from MMC.

Fabric issue to the cutting Department: Now according to the time and action plan (in

which cutting date is mentioned), the fabric is issued to the cutting department and log

book is maintained in the cutting department which contains following information:

Style No. :

Buyer Name :

Fabric Colour :

Fabric :

Garment Description:

Order quantity :

Fit of the Garment:

Fusing to be used :

Warp shrinkage (%): Weft shrinkage (%):

14.2 Trims Store:

Process Flow:


FABRIC SAMPLE


Trims receiving: According to the style and order quantity trims and accessories are

issued from the MMC and received to the production unit. Here also, Goods receiving

note is maintained, which contain following details:

D.C. receiving date D. C. No Style No Items Nos.

Trims storage: According to the type and quantity trims and accessories are kept in the

designated racks placed in the store. The list of different types of trims and accessories are

given below:

Labels:

Main label (contains brand name and trademark)

Tab label (contains detail about company)

Care content label (contains content of the fabric)

Size label (size of the garment)

Wash care label (wash care instructions)

Vendor ID label (contains name of the vendor)

Buttons

Zippers

Locker loop

BTW tape

Trims release: A trim card is made for each and every order containing all the

qualitative and quantitative trims specifications needed for that order. Exact samples

for each item are also attached on the card for identification. It also includes the


Trims received from MMC

Trims storage

Trims release for the sewing

information about the buyer, style, ACL style, GMT (garment), Quantity. The

accessories are matched with the samples and then issued to the sewing department.

15. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

The department receives marker plan from the E2 unit which consist of following

information:


Marker length

Marker width

Buyer name

Version

Sizes

Marker efficiency

According to the marker plan spreading is planned and a Lay Slip is maintained in the

following format:

Format no Item code

Version Fabric width

Lot no Lay length

Book no Colour

Style no No of layers

Name of buyer Sizes

Counted by Lay starting time

Name of cutter Lay finishing time

QC name & checked by Shade

H.O.D

Lay starting and lay finishing time helps the supervisor in monitoring the hourly target for

the spreading:

Target - 40 plies/hr (approx.)

Spreader also maintains the spreading particulars in Lay Info slip as following:

Date - 18/5/07 Lay length - 5.23 mts

Cut no - 1 Lay width - 51”

Sizes - XS, S, M, L

Colou

r

Roll no Quantity Shade Takka no No of plies Balance Lay sequence

Black 5404 61 A 11 3.70 1

Process flow in Cutting Department:



Roll segregation

Roll opening

Fabric inspection

Fabric relaxation

Lay relaxation

Cutting

Fusing

Spreading

Ticketing and bundling of cut parts


Approved bundle

Bit end storage

Disapproved bundle

Cut part inspection

Cutting storage

Damage cutting and replacement

Cutting storage

15.1 A brief description of the process flow in Cutting Department:

Roll segregation: The fabrics issued for the production are first numbered. Pre wash and

after wash samples are taken from each roll and they are categorized in the three families

that are A, B and C. The categorization is based on the number of factors like colour,

shade, shrinkage. But the major factors considered here are shrinkage percentage (max.

2.5%*1.0%) and shade variation.

Fabric opening and inspection: At this stage the fabric rolls are put on the clamp placed

on the inspection table and the rolls are opened in the opposite direction so that the fabric

can slide down easily and simultaneously the inspection is also carried out and the fabric

is being kept in relaxed / loose form on fabric relaxation trolley for 2-5 hours.

Spreading and relaxation: In this process, first a brown paper is spread over the table

which is fixed on the table by the cellotape. After that the fabric is laid flat over the table

so that the uniformity in the fabric can be obtained while cutting. For this purpose,

generally wooden scales are used to remove the wrinkles and crimps. Lay weights (iron

blocks) are also used for keeping the correct fabric alignment. The spreading table used

are made up of wooden base with plywood surface mounted on the steel stand. The

dimensions of the table are 11m*1.5m*1m (length*breadth*height).The ply cutting or the

lay cutting for the spreading purpose is done by the rotary cutter. Generally 75-125 lays

are put in one spread and average height of the lay is 3.75 inches. The lays are kept for the

period of 5-12 hours for the proper relaxation. However, the relaxation time depends on

the nature of the fabric, temperature and relative humidity at the work. In spreading, the

lay length and fabric consumption calculation are done on the basis of CAD marker.

Cutting: The CAD marker needed for the cutting comes from the E2 / E3 units, are

actually size set samples markers. These markers are further manually modified by the

cutting master as per the modification needed for the bulk production. Now, are placed

over the spreaded lay and cutting is carried out with the help of straight knife. Band knifes

are also used for cutting smaller and complicated parts while Drill markers are used for

making holes for the marking purposes.


Fusing: The fabric cut parts which require fusing before the stitching are sent to the

fusing section. It has two fusing machines. The temperature of fusing machine is set

according to-

The type of thermal shrinkage of the shell fabric

The type of interlining used

The type of fusible resin (polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester etc)

The type of fusing whether it is double, reverse or sandwich fusing.

The section also maintains the Daily Fusing and Bonding Strength Report in the following format:

Buyer style-BR-514519 Date-31/05/07Temp Pressure Time Bonding strength Length in inches Width in inches

Sample ◦C Kg/sq cm Sec GMS Before After Change Before After ChangeF Noon 125 1.5 11 800 4 4 - 3 3 -A Noon 125 1.5 11 800 4 4 - 3 3 -

Factory ACL-SP 10/8 Interlining-P*313

F Noon Sample A Noon Sample

The fusing equipment must provide control over three major factors as instructed by R&D

Department:

Time

Temperature

Pressure

Machine setting is also checked after every two hours and recorded in Fusing Report:

Date 8:30 10:30 12:30 3:00 5:00 Signature31/05/07 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C

Fusing defects are also checked and record is maintained as


Date Setting No bubbling

No colour change

Bonding strength

Any other SignatureCE

FN AN F N AN FN AN FN AN FN AN31/05/07

Ticketing and Bundling: After that the cut parts are allotted with ticket number and

stickers are used for this purpose, which consist whole description about the part and now

the bundling is done. The cut parts of similar types are put in one bundle. However, the

number of cut pieces in a bundle varies with the production runs and the sizes. The

stickering operators are issued with the list of numbers, which has to be stuck on the cut

parts. Each operator has the following info to stick the tickets issued by the department.

Example:

Lot no Version DateDestination Cut no TimeStyle No. Lay length Page No.

Colour Size Takka no Bundle no Pcs FPLY TPLYLilly rose XS 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 7192450 20 83 102

S 4962(D)309, 3930(E)311 7192454 20 309 328M 4962(D)227, 3930(E)229 7192458 20 227 246L 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 7192462 20 83 102

Operators adjust their ticketing gun according to the numbers issued to them and three

different stickers are put on the every cut piece. The placement of label/sticker on the cut

pieces is pre decided in the pre production meeting.

Sticker Details:


324702ZB500267 * 3/2/USA/ SHADOW

Style number

Lot No. * Cut No. / Size serial /Destination / Colour

[Ply No.] No. of pieces8208344 – 31/30[71-73] 35 - Fly

Bundle No. – Size / Inseam

Parts name

Cut part inspection: The cut parts are inspected as per the damages and the ticket

number and if any discrepancies are found they are sent to bit end storage section other

wise bundle is approved and sent to the sewing department by the trolleys. For confirming

proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut block top, middle

and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as each other for the exact

and even measurements.

Bit end storage: Here end bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept and if any

damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are cut and

damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number is allotted to

that particular cut piece and sent to the sewing departments.


ZBJO33742 (B) Takka No. ( Shade)

15.2 Machinery and Table details in the Cutting department:

15.2.1 Tables:

Tables No. No. of worker/tableSpreading table 5 2Inspection table 2 4

Cutting table 2 3Damage cutting 1 5

Ticketing 1 3Bundling 1 7

15.2.2 Machinery:

Machine No. Operators/machine Make/ ModelStraight knife 2 1 Eastman machine Co.

2 1 Blue Streak BS2Band knife 2 1 KM bk-700

Drill marker 1 1 Eastman machine Co. CD3Rotary cutter 1 3 Ngai Shing NS-71

Fusing machine 2 3 Hashima2 2 Kannegiesser

Rod Clamp 1 2 LocalStickering machine 5 1 BlitzTextile Mod.2234

15.2.3 Miscellaneous:

Items No. MakeRacks 5 Local

Trolleys 10 LocalFans/Table 5 Orient/Usha

Tube light/Table 10 EliteExhaust fan 10 Gec AlsthomLay weights 10 Local


15.3 Quality Checking In Cutting Room

15.3.1 Spreading operator procedures for Spreading auditor:

S.NO. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Narrow

goodsTo ensure that all the plies extend

beyond the marker line.

Visual inspection by checking far

edge of the lay with marker line

Quality controller

At random during laying and after

the completion of lay before cut.

2 count To ensure correct quality of the lay

as well as to ensure that plies

extend to the table marking

line at both sides/ends.

By counting plies at both

ends of the lay.

Quality controller

After spread is finished and

before the cut.

3 Leaning edge

To ensure that one edge of the lay is square to

the table.

Visual inspection

Quality controller

At random during the laying and

after completion of lay before cut.

4 Marker To make sure that marker is not

over torn, over lapped, creased,

damaged or altered

Visual inspection and check against

original patterns

Quality controller/ supervisor

After marker is put on lay and

before cut.

5 Marker placement

To ensure that all cut part are complete

Marker should be placed parallel to

selvedge of the lay i.e. visual

inspection

Quality controller/

Cutter

After marker is put on lay and

before cut

6 Tension To ensure that spread is not slack or tight,

very much important for

knits and stretch fabrics.

Visual inspection

Quality controller/spreader

At random during laying


15.3.2 Standard operation procedures for cutting supervisor:

S.No. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Check actual

temperatureTo check against

RnD specification for conformity

Thermal stripe/ digital meter

Quality controller

Once in 2 hours

2 Check actual time

To check against RnD specification

for conformity

Stop Watch Quality controller

Morning and evening

3 Visual check To ensure no discolouration, no

adhesive, no bubbling coming

out shell

Visual Quality controller

Once in 2 hours

4 Bond strength test

To ensure durability of

bonding

Spring balance/ manual

Quality controller

Morning and Afternoon as

per the buyer’s

specification5 Durability

washTo check bond strength and variation in shrinkage

Quality controller

Once in a day

6 Mocks of fusing parts (interlining placement)

As a ready reference for parts

that are to be fused

Visual display Cutting supervisor

During entire run of the

style

7 Fusing specification

As a ready reference

By interlining test report or approved fusing specification

Cutting supervisor

During entire run of the

style


15.3.3 Standard operation procedures for fusing mechanic:

S.No. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Temperature To set the fusing

machine as per the RnD or approved

specification

Stripe/ digital meter

Mechanic / Quality controller

Morning and after noon

2 Time To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved

specification

Stop Watch Mechanic / Quality controller


3 Pressure To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved

specification

Control knobs Mechanic / Quality controller


4 Machine cleaning

Daily maintenance As per the manufacturer’

s manual guidelines

mechanic As stipulated by the

manufacturer


16. SEWING DEPARTMENT

The sewing department consists of the actual work floor in the production unit. The cut

parts are received from the cutting department and data is recorded in the following

format:

Style: Date:

Country: Time:

S. no. Cut no Marker Colour Size From bundle To bundle F Ply T Ply1. 3 3 Black M 7192827 7192836 277 4762. 3 4 Black L 7192837 7192846 180 379

Prepared by Issued by Received by Cutting supervisor

After receiving the cut parts they are again counted by the receiver to counter check. The

setting and process flow of the sewing department changes with every order. Before the

execution of the order, the operation breakdown of the garment is done and operation

bulletin is made. The operation bulletin acts as the tool for the line balancing and helps in

production target achievement. According to this breakdown the sewing line is set so that

the through put time can be reduced for the smooth production flow. The production

bulletin prepared for the sewing comes from the CIED department.

All sewing operators are provided with a production slips (time sheet) in which bundle

stickers are stuck as soon as bundle operation gets completed. The work slips are counted

after every two hours to prepare the manual production report as well as the barcode are

scanned and hourly production status is fed into the production management system. It

helps to check the efficiency of each operator at regular intervals. At the end of the day

total production report is made.

There are five checkpoints in each line to check the quality. If any problem occurs the

production manager and executives gets into immediate action and rectification is done for

producing any quality garment.


The sewing department is divided into four parts:

1. Line A

2. Line B

3. Line C and

4. Kaja Section

16.1 Line Section:

Lines A, B, and C are general sewing line which execute all the main sewing operations.

The workflow of the section has been described below with the help of ANN TAYLOR

ladies bottom order which was running during our tenure.

The garment style has been divided into nine groups and further subdivided into detailed

production procedures. The Operation breakdown for the style is as follows:

1.FLYMake FlyboxTurn FlyboxPress FlyboxSerge Fly & FlyboxTopstitch FlyboxTack Flybox O/L Threads

2.WAIST BANDMake Top Waistband FaceAttach Top Waistband Middle WaistbandJoin Waistband Panels (3 Pc)Dummy Stitch WaistbandPress WaistbandAttach Inner Waistband To Outer Waistband Mark WaistbandMake WaistbandTurn Waistband FaceAttach Tunnel Patch to WaistbandMake LableAttach Lable To Back

3.SIDE POCKETSerge Pocket FacingSerge Front Pocket Bag


5.FRONTSerge Front RiseAttach And Topstitch FlyAttach Zipper To FlyAttach Flybox To ZipperTopstitch Front With Flybox And ZipperAttach Facing Scoop Pocket to FrontTurn And Press Front PocketTopstitch Front Pocket MouthAttach Pocket To forntStay Stitch Front Pocket At Side And WaistSew J-StitchSew Front Rise

6.BACKMark Back For Welt Pocket And DartSew DartsPress Back DartTopstitch Dart All roundSerge Pocket FacingMake Welt PocketTurn WeltPress WeltTack WeltTopstitch Down WeltTopstitch Top WeltSerge Welt Pocket BagPattern Stitch On Welt Pocket BagAttach Back Pocket Flap To BackTopstitch Back Pocket Flap


4.BACK FLAPMake FlapTurn Flap (Rectangular)Topstitch Flap Ready Cut FlapAttach Tab to Flap

7.SUB ASSEMBLYMatch Front With BackSew Side SeamTopstitch Side SeamSew InseamSew Back RiseTopstitch Back RiseTopstitch Back RiseAttach Label at Side

8.ASSEMBLYMark Body For Loops & WaistbandMatch Waistband With BodyAttach Waistband To BodyClose Waistband FaceTopstitch Waistband All aroundHem Bottom

9.FINISHINGAttach Button to WaistbandKeyhole WaistbandAttach Button To BackKeyhole FlapBartack Crotch & FlyBartack Front PocketBartack Welt PocketAttach Snap To Waistband (Female)Attach Snap Button (Male)


16.2 Kaja Section:

Process Flow:


Kaja Marking and Making: This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially

templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked

position by the specialised machine.

Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine

buttons are attached at the marked positions.


Kaja Marking

Kaja Making

Button Marking

Button attach

Button shank wrapping

Sticker removing

Button and Kaja checking

Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank

wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface.

Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where

proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found

they are again sent back for correction.

Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are

further sent to the washing or the finishing department.


16.3 Quality Checking In Sewing Room

Each production step is followed by a quality checking point. The quality parameters that

are taken into consideration at each quality check points for bottoms are described as

follows:

Quality Checking Scope for Front:

1. SPI: 7 for top stitch and SPI: 10-12 for attaching.

2. Front pocket opening should be both ways (horizontal and vertical)

3. J- stitch width 1 3/8” and J- stitch should be per pattern shape with 1/4” DNLS

4. Front rise attaching should be on curve and avoid puckering.

5. Front pocket top stitch should be even and avoid puckering.

6. Front top stitch and front pocket opening should be 5/16” DNLS.

7. Front pocket shape should be as per the pattern and both ways identical, avoid high

and low.

8. Down fly shape should be as per the pattern.

9. Front pocket opening should be 1/8” loose.

10. Front pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.

Quality Checking Scope For Back:

1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.

2. Back pocket dart DNTS distance should be 5/16”

3. Flap should be centred to welt with 5/16” DNTS.

4. Back welt pocket should be balanced both sides.

5. Back pocket DNTS should be 5/16” even all around and as per the pattern shape.

6. Button hole should be centred to the flap.

7. Back welt pocket smiling not allowed

8. Back pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.

9. Avoid pocket high low both ways (horizontal and vertical).

10. Flap tab should be centred to the flap.


Quality checking scope for side attachment:


2. Side seam DNTS width should be 5/16” even in both the panels.

3. Side seam over lock quality should be neat and clean with SPI: 10

4. Edge stitch should be on the right side of the wearer.

5. Avoid loose and skip stitches at the double needle top stitch.

6. avoid puckering at inseam over lock and SPI should be 14

7. Back rise DNTS should be ¼” and avoid puckering and loose stitches.

8. Front rise should be single needle edge stitch.

Quality Checking Scope For Waist Band Attachment:


2. Waist band joint and side seam should match.

3. Waist band attaching seam margin should be even.

4. Avoid puckering while waist band attaching.

5. Waist band high low is not allowed.

6. Waist band centre front should be straight.

7. Crotch joint should match.

8. Main label should centre to the waist band at centre back.

9. Back pocket and lip high low should be avoided.

10. Face closing should be straight and avoid run off stitches.

Quality checking scope for end of the line:


2. Waist band height 1 ¾” even all over.

3. Waist band finishing should be proper , avoid puckering and roping.

4. Waist band high low not allowed.

5. Waist band roping inside not allowed.

6. Waist band top stitch should be even avoid joint stitches.

7. Waist band should be straight at centre front between hem height ½” double fold

while roping and puckering should be avoided.

8. Waist band lip should be ½” even all around.

9. Eye let placement should be as per the sample


16.4 Machine and Equipment details in sewing department:

16.4.1 Machines:

Machine No. Make No. of operator/ machineSNLS (without UBT) 18 JUKI 1

2 Brother 1SNLS (with UBT) 120 JUKI 1

20 Brother 13- Thread overlock 4 JUKI 14- Thread overlock 3 JUKI 15- Thread overlock 15 JUKI 1Welt pocket maker 2 Beiser 1SNLS Edge cutter 18 JUKI 1

Chain stitch 10 JUKI 12 Brother 1

Double needle lock stitch 40 JUKI 1Snap attaching 4 Ngai Shing 1

Feed of arm 2 JUKI 1Bartack 7 Brother 1

Keyhole (kaza) 2 Brother 1Button attach 2 JUKI 1Button hole 3 JUKI 1

1 Brother 1Button shank wrapping 1 Ascolite 1


Items No. MakeChecking tables 18 Local

Hangers 9 LocalFans 90 Orient/Usha

Tube light 312 EliteExhaust fan 7 Gec Alsthom

Chairs 270 Local


17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The machine setting and work flow of the finishing department also changes with the

order and style. The process flow described below is according to the ANN TAYLOR

ladies bottom order.

Process Flow:


Washed Garment received

Draw cord

Trimming

Stitching repair

Stain removal

Bulk ironing

2nd Garment checking

Security label attaching Tag attaching Final stain removing Belt tieing Final ironing and folding

Inside Checking

Thread suckering

17.1 A brief description of the process flow in Finishing Department:

Washed Garment Receiving: The unit do not have the in-house washing department so

the garments are sent to the central washing unit at D-16. Generally, it takes one day for

the washing and washed garments are received after one day.

Draw Cord: This step is for this style only as per the design requirement.

Trimming: After this the garments are sent to the trimming table, where extra thread is

trimmed from the garment and a trimming report is also maintained as follows:


Draw cord tacking

Measurement Checking

Security label attaching

Tag attaching

Final stain removing

Belt tieing

Final ironing & folding

S. No Name of Operator

9:15 10:15 11:15 … ... … …. 5:00

1. 22 22 222. 22 10 203.4.5.

13. 22 10 20Total 242 235 240

Grand total 477 2190

Inside Checking: After receiving the garments, inside checking is done to check out

defects like broken stitches, skip stitches and uncut threads etc. After checking the

garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker

has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being

inspected by which checker. A set format is given to each checker to maintain the record

of defects at various areas like A/H, cuffs etc. It also helps to find out the total garments

inspected by the checker and percentage defectives found.

Stitch Repairing: In case of any sewing defect the respective garments are sent back to

sewing line to repair it immediately. However, finishing department has its own tailors to

repair the minor faults. To rectify defects, checker puts the clip at the defective garments

after tying the defective area with the help of thread. Each clip has a particular no assigned

to each checker. After repairing the garments are sent back to the respective checker to

recheck

Stain Removing: As each garment suffers multiple handling right from receiving the

fabric to the finishing, it leads to stain marks on the garments. So, the garments are sent to

stain removal section to remove the stains from the garments. These stains are removed by

stain removal guns in which white petrol is used to remove the stains. Sometime they also

use stain removing sprays. Here, also each operator sticks the particular sticker assigned to

her to track out the garment handled by her.

Thread suckering: Now the garments are exposed to the thread sucker machine where the

left over cut threads are sucked from the garments.


Bulk ironing: The department has fourteen pressing work stations, where the garments

are passed for the pressing.

2nd checking: Now the garments are sent to 2nd checking to find out fabric defects, shade

variation, shape distortion (bottom shape, cuff and placket shape etc.), minor stitching

defects etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment,

inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out

which garment is being inspected by which checker.

At the 1st checking stage, major concern is stitching defects and extra threads only.

Draw cord tacking: This step is also style specific as per the design of this garment only.

Measurement Checking: The garments are now sent to the measurement checking table

where all critical measurements are taken and matched according to the specifications and

tolerance.

Security Label attaching: This is also a buyer specified attachment as in this style RFID

security labels are attached.

Tag attaching: Here price tags and wash care labels along with the extra buttons are

attached with the garment.

Final Stain removing: Again stain removing is done by the sprayer before final packing.

Belt tieing: This is also specific to this style only as per the buyer specification.

Final folding and packing: It is the final step in which garment is folded as per the

packing instructions and packed in the poly bags.

All garments are passed to needle detection machine to meet the safety compliance

of the buyer before the packing. But it is done for a few buyers only.


17.2 Machine and Equipment details in finishing department:

17.2.1 Machines:

Machine No. Operators/machine Make/ ModelNeedle detector 1 2 HASIMA/ HN740 G

Pressing work station 14 1 Ramsons VeilThread sucker 1 1 Ramsons


Items No. MakeChecking tables 55 Local

Storage bin 3 RamsonsFans 48 Orient/Usha

Tube light 143 Elite


18. PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Process Flow:


Receive finished garment

Shade checking

Placing shade sticker

Garment alignment check

Barcode scanning

Size sorting

Packing in carton

Sent to store

Packet concealing

18.1.1 A brief description of the process flow in Packaging Department:

The finished garments kept in the polyethylene bag are sent to the packaging Department,

where firstly shade checking is done in order to the matching the shade written on the

polyethylene bag with the actual garment pieces. Shade checking is done on a ordinary

wooden table with tube light mounted on the top by the stand and the inspection area is

enclosed from three side by thermocol sheets. After that packets are sent to another table,

where an operator puts shade sticker on the approved packets and another worker conceal

the packet after checking the proper alignment of the garment inside the packet. Now, the

barcode scanning of the packed garment pieces is done and all data are fed into the

computer. Scanned pieces are stacked and separated on the basis of sizes and shades on

the other table, where garment polybags are kept in the cardboard cartons and cartons are

concealed by the adhesive tape. Only 10 pieces of garments are kept in one carton. These

cartons are again sent to the stores by the trolleys and one trolley has the capacity of 18

cartons. The carton dimensions and specifications are given by buyer. Generally two

dimensions are used i.e. for bottoms – 37*30*18 cm3 and for shirts – 66 *39* 22.5 cm3.

18.2 Equipment Details in packaging Department:

Items No. Model/MakeTables 3 Local

Barcode reader 1 ARGOXWeighing machine 1 F6AP/ ATCO

Fans 6 UshaTube 12 Philips

Exhaust fans 6 UshaTrolleys 5 Local


18.3 Polybag, Barcode, Carton Sticker Details

Descriptions printed on the Polybags:

Example:

DEPT #69STYLE #208993

COLOUR #7440SIZE #6PP.O. #971875

SHADE GROUP B

Barcode details fed in the Computer per carton:

Example:

CTN NO. SHADE COLOUR SIZE ACT PCS SCAN PCS389 A SEA- SIDES OOP 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES OP 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 2P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 4P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 6P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 8P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 10P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 12P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 14P 1 1

Sticker details on the carton:

Example:

P.O.(Purchase order number)# 972130DEPT 59 - MISSY

STYLE 203860COLOUR 1295

SHADE LOT ASIZEQTY 10 pcs.

PACK SKU 81230815DIM 37*30*18 cms

GROSS WEIGHT 4.450 Kgs.NET WEIGHT 3.700 Kgs.PACK RATIO OOP/1 OP/2 2P/3 4P/2 6P/2 8P/2 10P/2 12P/1

14P/1 TTL/14


19. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

To ensure the right quality of the product is one of the important objectives of the

company. Therefore, Quality control is applied at every stage of the garment i.e.

spreading, cutting, sewing, washing, finishing and packaging..

There is 100% inline inspection and end line inspection for the garments. Hourly reports

are made for the checking and follow up of the repairs.

Statistical process control technologists are employed to improve on the quality standards.

In ACL Statistical process control starts from laying and cutting. An Statistical process

control checker fills up the spread quality report and control quality report, there reports

indicates any defects or imperfections in tension of lay, pattern sizes, width variation etc.

In sewing Four Statistical process control checkers carry out Statistical process control

checking at 4 critical points, also the factory quality control team go on taking rounds of

line. The merchandiser, buyer, quality checker and R&D people come for inspection too.

AQL (Accepted Quality level) is set as per the buyer recommendations.

The number of inline checkers and end line checkers are as follows:-

Inline checkers: 3

End line checkers: 2

19.1 List of the details to be checked in Cutting Department:

SL. NO

Version

Style No

Fabric

Cut No

Lay Length

No. Piles

Table Marking

Marker Placing

Ends

Marrow Goods

Leaning


Tension

Counts

Marker

Total Defects

Sign QC

Cutting Super

19.2 List of the defects checked during the inline and end line checking,

and the quality audits:

fabric defects

colour shading

broken stitches

skip stitches

uneven SPI

loose stitches

insecure button/snap

high low

raw edge

needle holes

unwanted pleats

missing operation

run off stitch

incorrect labels

stains/dirt marks

stickers

uncut thread

out tolerance

19.3 Audit Flow Chart in Ambattur Clothing Limited


19.3.1 Sample Selection Techniques at different stages of the Quality Audit:

Type of Audit No of samples

Total no of the samples Rejection level

before finishing 7 Total production one hour

2 minor/ 1 major defect

Before wash/ after finishing

7 500 2 minor/ 1 major defect

After wash 7 500 2 minor/ 1 major defect

NOTE:

After external audit is done buyer representative is invited for the audit. The AQL

depends on the buyer. E.g. the AQL for Levis is 2.5 whereas for J-JILL it is zero

(0).

All the quality inspection sheets are in the annexure.

20. MAINTAINENCE DAPARTMENT


Before Wash Audit

After Wash Audit

Before Packaging Audit

External Audit by R&D Department

The department is run by two senior mechanics and three helpers who ensure the smooth

running of the production. The responsibilities of maintenance department can be divided

as follows:

1) Preventive maintenance

2) Break down maintenance

3) Spares inventory

4) Arrangement of machines, folders and attachments

5) General maintenance

6) Work shop

20.1 Preventive Maintenance Procedure

Daily check schedule of mechanics (during working hours) includes:

20.1.1 Mechanical maintenance: on daily basis

Needle point sharpness, bent

Oil leakage

SPI

Seam quality

Thread path

Attachment positions / alignment

20.1.2 Electrical maintenance:

One electrician takes care of all the sewing floor and checks all the live lines for

insulation.

Weekly inspection and cleaning of all the electrical lines of any foreign materials

and rectifying loose connections

Cleaning of panel boards on a fortnightly basis

20.2 Breakdown Maintenance


20.2.1 Mechanical maintenance:

Each line is attended by a mechanic who will take care of breakdown maintenance in that

line and his functions can be summarized as follows:

Reports to chief mechanic who looks after all the lines.

Maintains a breakdown log book where the machine down time is noted.

Machines with major problems are sent to the workshop.

Line mechanic also maintenance a log book for broken and blunt needles.

20.2.2 Electrical maintenance:

An electrician is also deputed to take care of electrical maintenance on the sewing floors

Any major problems are reported to head of breakdown maintenances.

20.3 Spares Inventory

It includes:

Following buyer compliance

Maintaining needle log book

Broken needle is affixed completely ( including the broken part ) in the prescribed

format

If the broken part cannot be traced, the garment around that particular area will be

passed through needle detector

Blunt and bent needles are collected in a sealed box and audited by the concerned

buyer the QC every so often.

Needle detector is calibrated twice a day with the gauges and readings are

documented.

20.4 Arrangement of Machines, Folders, and Attachments


The machines, attachments and folders requirement list for new style is given by

the production manager at pre production meeting

The requirement list is reconciled with the stores stock and items that are not

available indented giving the full specification of the purchase department

All the materials that are received from supplier are checked 100% for quality and

specification by the store keeper. The material stock is updated in the spares

registers with all the relevant details.

20.5 General Maintenance

It includes following:

Cleaning the machines completely from stand to machine head

Cleaning of oil ( taking the foreign materials from the oil reservoir)

All machines are provided with eye guard and finger guard

The band knife and cloth cutting machines operators are given metal gloves to

avoid accidents

All power points are provided with earthing to avoid accidents.

20.6 Workshop

Workshop involves the repair and fabrication of the damaged machine and machine parts.

Folders and attachments are as per the requirements of sewing line. Some of the

attachments fabricated here are also sent to other units of the company.

21. PROJECT


AIM: Cutting and Sewing Department Process Analysis for increasing productivity in the

SP 10/8 unit.

DURATION: 7 days

METHODOLOGY APPLIED: Analysis of test reports and working procedures to find

out the deviation from the standard operating procedures.

INSPECTION AREA GIVEN BY THE FACTORY MANAGER:

In Cutting Department:

Shrinkage and shade sorting

Fabric relaxation

Cut Quality

Damage Cutting

Production time

In Sewing Department:

Pre production operation

In line Problems

DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS:

In cutting Department:

Shrinkage and shade sorting: The test report sent by the MMC is followed and

proper roll segregation is done. Therefore there is not any problem.

Fabric relaxation: recommended fabric and lay relaxation time is given so problem

regarding uneven lay length and stretching is not found. Lay checking is also

carried out and the bowing is corrected by making notches as well as pulling the

fabric in opposite direction.


Cut Quality: lay height is set according to the buyer specification as well as the

nature of the fabric. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is

done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched

against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements.

So, there is no problem regarding the cut Quality.

Damage Cutting: End bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept in store

and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again

parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same

ticket number is allotted to the cut pieces and sent to the sewing departments.

Production time: There is no time lag has been found in the cutting room. All

orders are cut before or on the scheduled time.

Suggestions:

The marker efficiency is generally 70% so there is no measures have been taken to

utilize waste fabric in constructive way. Those can be used for the operators

training as well as for their stitch practices.

Whenever new blade is fed in the straight knife frayed edges and wavy marks are

seen on the lay sides. This should not be ignored.

The capacity of the cutting room is under utilization, it can take approx. 5% more

orders.


In Sewing Department:

1. Pre production operation:

Production manager, executive and supervisor make the operation breakdown

according to the CIED recommendation as well as the convenience and comfort of

operators. This is done 3 days before the production in the pre production meeting.

Operators and tailors are assigned for the each and every operation in one day

advance.

List of the machineries and folders required for the production are given to the

maintenance department three to seven days in advance.

Capacity of the operator: at the time when any critical operation or bottleneck is

found in the line, then by time study operator’s capacity for an hour is calculated

by production manager/ executive.

Production executive / supervisor also analyses the way of stitching and operator’s

feedback may suggest some new innovative ideas for doing that operation.

Therefore nothing objectionable found in the preproduction operations.

2. Inline Problems:

Absenteeism: Through out the period of our internship we observed it as a one of the

major problem in order to increase productivity. This leads to major line imbalancement

and every day undesirable time and production is lost due to this. Therefore some time it is

difficult to overcome the start up losses. However, a full function line can produce up to

850 pieces per day but it is rarely achieved. It also causes non uniformity in the stitches as

different people have different way of stitching. Due to absence of a skilled tailor, stitch

quality also deteriorates as well as that place has to fill with two semi skilled operators.

The absenteeism percentage in Line A is given below for the reference.



Date Absenteeism % Workers present

7-Jun-07 12.94118 74

8-Jun-07 10.58824 76

9-Jun-07 7.058824 79

11-Jun-07 16.47059 71

12-Jun-07 12.94118 74

13-Jun-07 10.58824 76

14-Jun-07 11.76471 75

15-Jun-07 11.76471 75

16-Jun-07 11.76471 75

18-Jun-07 11.76471 75

19-Jun-07 11.76471 75

20-Jun-07 11.76471 75

21-Jun-07 11.76471 75

22-Jun-07 11.76471 75

23-Jun-07 11.76471 75

25-Jun-07 11.76471 75

26-Jun-07 11.76471 75

27-Jun-07 8.235294 78

28-Jun-07 8.235294 78

29-Jun-07 8.235294 78

30-Jun-07 8.235294 78

2-Jul-07 8.235294 78

3-Jul-07 8.235294 78

4-Jul-07 10.58824 76

Graphical Representation of Absenteeism percentage in Line A

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

7-Jun-07

8-Jun-07

9-Jun-07

10-Jun-07

11-Jun-07

12-Jun-07

13-Jun-07

14-Jun-07

15-Jun-07

16-Jun-07

17-Jun-07

18-Jun-07

19-Jun-07

20-Jun-07

21-Jun-07

22-Jun-07

23-Jun-07

24-Jun-07

25-Jun-07

26-Jun-07

27-Jun-07

28-Jun-07

29-Jun-07

30-Jun-07

1-Jul-07

2-Jul-07

3-Jul-07

4-Jul-07

There is very less technical knowledge about the machine and stitches to the

workers.

There is not proper IE support to the production managers and the executives in the

unit.

Suggestions:

Absenteeism is major problem. Existing incentive scheme of Rs.600 for 100%

attendance is not enough to handle this problem So, the incentive scheme should

be in such a way that it should attract majority and should be achievable for them.


Recommended Incentive Scheme

Leave per Month IncentiveNo Leave Rs. 600 + Medical Facility

1 day Rs. 400 + Medical Facility2 days Rs. 250 + Medical Facility3 days Medical facility

More than 3 days No Medical Facility

There should be one hour training programme for the new operators after every 15

days.

There should be monthly general meeting between high authority and the operators

so that there problems can be seen from the grass root level.

New operator should spend every day first five minutes on the practice stitches and

these should be submitted as an assignment of the training programme.

There should be easy access to the IE tools and services for the production

managers and supervisors, so that their time can be effectively and efficiently

utilised.


22. CONCLUSION

The industrial internship in the Ambattur Clothing Limited has exposed us to the different

and vivid facets of the garment field. Apart from the theoretical and practical knowledge

the internship has given us the opportunity to use our knowledge and skill in solving the

problems on the production work floor. The practical experience imparted by the

internship has helped us to visualize and analyse the ground level details in order to

understand the complexity of any problem. At the one end industrial experience had

conveyed the importance of professional and corporate approach towards the work and life

mean while at the other it helped us to understand the importance of emotional quotient in

increasing the productivity. It helped us to realize the importance and need of team work

in order to achieve success.The two months stay at Chennai has also given us the

opportunity to interact with the people of different culture, language and background.

Altogether it was a wonderful experience and memory to be treasured life long.


Apparel Internship Document

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