“He demonstrated that clothes designed on Seventh Avenue could rival the most elegant creations from Paris…Norellhelped to put American fashion on the map.”

Norman Norman NorellNorell was born in 1900 as Norman David Levinson in was born in 1900 as Norman David Levinson in Noblesville, Indiana. His parents were not in the garment businNoblesville, Indiana. His parents were not in the garment business, ess, although his mother was a fashion plate in his small town. The although his mother was a fashion plate in his small town. The LevinsonsLevinsons moved to Indianapolis when Norman was 5.moved to Indianapolis when Norman was 5.

After he graduated from high school he enlisted in the army, andAfter he graduated from high school he enlisted in the army, and at 19 at 19 he enrolled at Parson’s School of Design in New York City to stuhe enrolled at Parson’s School of Design in New York City to study dy fashion illustration. Here was where he changed his name to Norfashion illustration. Here was where he changed his name to Norman man NorellNorell..

NorellNorell left school to open a batik shop, but soon returned to his studleft school to open a batik shop, but soon returned to his studies ies of fashion at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York, where he waof fashion at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York, where he was s awarded first prize in a blouse competition. Convinced it was hawarded first prize in a blouse competition. Convinced it was his is destiny to be a costumer…destiny to be a costumer…

Norman worked for Astoria Studios of Norman worked for Astoria Studios of Paramount Pictures at 22. For two years he was Paramount Pictures at 22. For two years he was a costumer for Paramount movies. He worked a costumer for Paramount movies. He worked with Valentino, Gloria Swanson and Brooks with Valentino, Gloria Swanson and Brooks Costume Company. He briefly returned to his Costume Company. He briefly returned to his first passion when he worked on the 1963 film first passion when he worked on the 1963 film “The Wheeler Dealers”.“The Wheeler Dealers”.

In 1924 In 1924 NorellNorell worked for Charles Amour in his worked for Charles Amour in his first job designing. There he designed an first job designing. There he designed an upscale line of dresses. upscale line of dresses.

In 1928 he left Charles Amour to work for In 1928 he left Charles Amour to work for Hattie Carnegie, who is known as the first Hattie Carnegie, who is known as the first fashion retailer. In fashion retailer. In Norell’sNorell’s 13 years working 13 years working for Hattie Carnegie, he gained experience in for Hattie Carnegie, he gained experience in retail, wholesale, and custom fashion design. retail, wholesale, and custom fashion design. He often accompanied her on her trips to Paris He often accompanied her on her trips to Paris for inspiration, where he learned about for inspiration, where he learned about European fashion and changing it to suit European fashion and changing it to suit American tastes.American tastes.

In 1941, Norman In 1941, Norman NorellNorell left Hattie left Hattie Carnegie to founded Carnegie to founded TrainaTraina--NorellNorell with clothing manufacturer with clothing manufacturer Anthony Anthony TrainaTraina. From the very . From the very first collection under the new first collection under the new label, label, NorellNorell established himself established himself as a major new talent. as a major new talent.

For the next three decades, from 1941 For the next three decades, from 1941 to his death in 1972, Norman to his death in 1972, Norman NorellNorellled American fashion with his classic led American fashion with his classic readyready--toto--wear styles. wear styles.

In 1960, In 1960, Norell’sNorell’s name alone name alone appeared on the label for the first appeared on the label for the first time.time.

In 1965, In 1965, NorellNorell presided over the presided over the Council of Fashion Designers of Council of Fashion Designers of America.America.

NorellNorell believed a woman should look believed a woman should look subdued by day and blossom at night…subdued by day and blossom at night…This led to his status as “ legendary This led to his status as “ legendary minimalist” for understated simple minimalist” for understated simple wool dresses with a high round wool dresses with a high round neckline, jumpers, and pantsuits. He neckline, jumpers, and pantsuits. He was also known for his use of jersey was also known for his use of jersey fabric, double breasted coats, and a fabric, double breasted coats, and a sailor motif.sailor motif.

NorellNorell pioneered the wearing of black and pioneered the wearing of black and white when American women seemed to be white when American women seemed to be stuck in a uniform of stuck in a uniform of floralsflorals. .

He was the first to show long evening skirts He was the first to show long evening skirts topped with sweaters, a popular look today.topped with sweaters, a popular look today.

Norell’sNorell’s fitted fitted “mermaid” dresses “mermaid” dresses of sequins were the of sequins were the essence of essence of elegance in the elegance in the sixties. He said of sixties. He said of the popular the popular designs “they have designs “they have a martinia martini--dry, dry, worldly quality” worldly quality” about them. about them. These shimmering These shimmering creations were a creations were a stark contrast to stark contrast to Norell’sNorell’s simple simple linen and wool day linen and wool day suits, keeping with suits, keeping with his belief that a his belief that a woman should woman should blossom at night.blossom at night.

NorellNorell catered to highcatered to high--class class clientele willing to pay for clientele willing to pay for quality apparel, even though quality apparel, even though he was not a couturier. His he was not a couturier. His favorite customer was film favorite customer was film star Lauren star Lauren BacallBacall. .

His most famous dress, the His most famous dress, the sequined and feathered sequined and feathered number, was worn by Dinah number, was worn by Dinah Shore to an awards show in Shore to an awards show in 1965.1965.

Jackie Kennedy was another Jackie Kennedy was another famous famous NorellNorell devotee. The devotee. The first lady endeavored to wear first lady endeavored to wear only American designed only American designed clothes. The classic doubleclothes. The classic double--breasted jacket and skirt set, breasted jacket and skirt set, at right, were created by at right, were created by NorellNorell..

Revlon introduced a women’s perfume named after Norell in 1968. It was based on his belief of buying the best one can afford. This classic, floral fragrance comes in a classic, tall and slim, elegance bottle, noted for austerity. It is still sold today by Five Star Fragrances.

Norell began his career during World War II. With a limited amount of fabric allowed for clothing at the time, hemlines rose. Most of Norell’s dresses are knee-length or calf-length. The tailored look also became popular for the working woman at this time and Norell used this classic look throughout his career.Most influential though was the effect World War II had on the world of European fashion. Although the French couture industry continued to work on a limited basis during World War II, international press coverage halted. As a result, American designers gained popularity. Along with American designer Claire McCardell, Norman Norell was able to gain a foothold on the International fashion scene. After the end of World War II, the French couture industry resumed full scale operation and once again became the center of international fashion. However, American designers had shown they could create innovative and original designs, earning an important place in the fashion world. During the post war period fashion magazines continued to give extensive coverage to American designers as well as their French counterparts.

Norman Norman Norell’sNorell’s fashion house died with him in 1972. His devoted fashion house died with him in 1972. His devoted clients continued to wear his clothes long after his death and sclients continued to wear his clothes long after his death and some of ome of his designs can be found in vintage clothing stores and auctionshis designs can be found in vintage clothing stores and auctions. . It has been said that “everyone but the most obscure fashionIt has been said that “everyone but the most obscure fashion--nut meets nut meets the name Norman the name Norman NorellNorell with a blank stare…even though he was with a blank stare…even though he was considered the king of American fashion for over 30 years.” Whiconsidered the king of American fashion for over 30 years.” While le Norell’sNorell’s name is not widely known outside of professional fashion name is not widely known outside of professional fashion circles, his influence stays with us today. circles, his influence stays with us today. Black and white as a popular color combination came from Black and white as a popular color combination came from NorellNorell. He . He perfected the pantsuit, a wardrobe staple for the working woman perfected the pantsuit, a wardrobe staple for the working woman today. today. The doubleThe double--breasted look has recently gained a great resurgence in breasted look has recently gained a great resurgence in popularity in the form of popularity in the form of peacoatspeacoats and suits. and suits. NorellNorell also introduced also introduced wool and jersey as fabrics that could be used for nighttime as wwool and jersey as fabrics that could be used for nighttime as well as ell as daytime wear. Some of his most elegant cocktail dresses were madaytime wear. Some of his most elegant cocktail dresses were made of de of these fabrics, which are usually relegated to sweaters, coats, athese fabrics, which are usually relegated to sweaters, coats, and nd sportswear.sportswear.

Kenneth Cole Issac Mizrahi Anne Klein

Issac Mizrahi Bill Blass Calvin Klein

Along with seven other New York designers, Norman Norell was honored on June 6, 2000 by The Fashion Center Business Improvement District (BID) as the Fashion Walk of Fame was officially unveiled by Mayor Rudy Giuliani.Each designer was immortalized with a decorative white bronze and granite marker embedded along Seventh "Fashion" Avenue. “The Fashion Center wanted to make a public statement about the tremendous talent that has emerged from this neighborhood, talent that has made America a world-class fashion capital," said Barbara Randall, Executive Director, Fashion Center BID.