1. ENGINE 2. EXHAUST

MEYERSMANX

A

A

B

C

D

4. CHASSIS MEYER MANX STREET

DUNE BUGGY

3. WHEELS

LEGEND

DETAILBASIC ASSEMBLIES

FINAL ASSEMBLIES✽

✽

FA N S H R O U D (2 pcs.) (C) (To holes)

E N G I N E B LO C K (2 pcs.)(C) (Cement together)

2 B R A K E D R U M S (C)

2 F R O N T I N N E R R I M S (C)2 I N N E R R E A R

WHEELS (C)2 I N N E R R E A R

WHEELS (C)

2 “ C R A G A RS / S ” M A G S (C)

2 “ C R A G A RS / S ” M A G S (C)

2 “ C R A G A R S / S ”M A G S (C)

E X H A U S TC O L L E C TO R

(To exhaust pipe ends“1”, “2” & “3”)

B A G O F S N A K E S E X H A U S TS Y S T E M (4 pcs.)

NOTE: All pipes must bepositioned so ends “1”, “2”

& “3” meet.

O I L PA N (C)(To block)

O I L F I LT E R (C)(To block)

S TA R T E R (C) (To rightside of bellhousing)

F U E L P U M P (To hole)

(To hole)

(To hole)

2 C Y L I N D E RH E A D S (2 pcs.)

(C) (To holes)

2 C A R B U R E TO R S(2 pcs.) (C)(To holes)

C O I L (C) (To hole)

G E N E R ATO R (C) (To hole)

FA N B E LT (C)(To pin)

M U F F L E R (MX-S)(To collector)

C H A S S I S B A C K B O N E(To floor pan)

R E A R TO R S I O NS P R I N G (To tab)

F O OT P E DA L S (To hole)

F R O N TS U S P E N S I O N

U N I T(To backbone)

S T E E R I N G L I N KA G E(See detail)

2 R E A R S H O C K S(To pin)

2 R E A R S U S P E N S I O NU N I T S (C) (To pin)

M E TA L A X L E S(Slide through holes)

LO C AT E A S S E M B L E DR E A R W H E E L S TO A X L E

(To notch)

S T E E R I N GB OX (To hole)

B O DY (To chassis)

B O DY (To chassis)

G A S TA N K (2 pcs.) (To opening)

G A S TA N K (2 pcs.)(To opening)

G A S TA N K (2 pcs.)(To backbone just behind seats)

G A S C A P (C)(To hole)

G A S C A P (C)(To hole)

G A S C A P (C) (To hole)

F L A G P O L E (To roll bar)

S T E E R I N G C O LU M N(Through hole)

S T E E R I N G C O LU M N(Through hole)

S T E E R I N G C O LU M N(To pin)

TA C H O M E T E R(C) (To column)

S U R R Y TO P(To windshield frame)

F L A G P O L E(To roll bar)

S T E E R I N GW H E E L (C)

(To pin)

S T E E R I N GW H E E L (C)

(To pin)

S T E E R I N G W H E E L (C)(To pin)

I N S T R U M E N TPA N E L (To hood)

I N S T R U M E N TPA N E L (To hood)

H O O D (To body)

H O O D (To body)

(To roll bar)

W I N D S H I E L D (Clear)(To frame)

W I N D S H I E L D (Clear)(To frame)

R E A R W I N D O W (Clear)(To opening)

R E A R L I C E N S E P L AT E (C)(To body)

F R O N T L I C E N S EP L AT E (C)(To hood)

2 PA R K I N GL I G H T S (C)

(To body)

F R O N T B U M P E R (C)(To holes)

C O W L B A R / B R A C E S(3 pcs.) (To holes)

(To floor pan)

(To cowl bar)

(To rearsuspension)

(To holes)

( 1 )

( 2 )

( 3 )

2 TA I L L I G H T S (2 pcs.)(To body)

(C)

(C)

(Red)

(Clear)

(To windshield frame)

W I N D S H I E L D F R A M E(C) (To hood)

W I N D S H I E L D F R A M E(C) (To hood)

W I N D S H I E L D W I P E R S(C) (To holes)

2 M I R R O R (C)(To frame)

B AT T E R Y (To body)

B AT T E R Y(To floor pan)

B AT T E R Y (To body)

(To body)

TO P

R E A R S E AT (3 pcs.)(To body)

2 H E A D L I G H T S (2 pcs.)(To body)

2 B U C K E TSEATS (To A)

2 B U C K E T SEATS(To A)

2 B U C K E T SEATS(To floor pan)

TO N N E A U C O V E R(To body D)

R O L L B A R / B R A C E (3 pcs.)(To holes B) (To body C)NOTE: Remove braces if

tonneau cover is to be used.

R O L L B A R / B R A C E (3 pcs.)

S H I F T L E V E R ( C ) (To slot)

B R A K E L E V E R ( C ) (To slot)

A S S E M B L E D E N G I N E (To hole) (To spring arms)

2 F R O N TS H O C K S

(To backing plate)

(To backing plate)

(To tab)

(To pin)

LO C AT E A S S E M B L E DF R O N T W H E E L S TO

B A C K I N G P L AT E

“ S T I N G E R ” E X H A U S T (C) (DB & MX)(To collector)

F R O N T S U S P E N S I O N U N I T

S T E E R I N G L I N KA G E

S K I D P L AT E / B U M P E R (C) (To oil pan)

2 VA LV E C O V E R S(C) (To heads)

2 M E TA L S T U B A X L E S(Through brake drum tomag, DO NOT CEMENT)

2 F R O N T V I N Y L T I R E S 2 “GOODYEAR ” Ho l lowVINYL T IRES

2 “GOODYEAR ” DUNETIRES (2 pcs.)

D I S T R I B U TO R (To block)

(“B” pipe through “A”pipe, to hole)

(Backing plate)

(A)(B)

(2)

(3)

(1)

(To holes on backsides of heads)

✱

✱

✱

✱

✱

✱✱

✳

✳

✳

✶

✶

8

2

2

2

2

2

2

3

3

3

3

3

3

4

4

4

4

4

4

5

5

5

5

5

5

6

6

6

6

6

6

7

7

7

7

7

7

8

8

8

8

9

9

99

10 10

10

10

11

11

11

12

12

12

13

13

13

14

14

14

15

15

15

16

16

17

18

19

2021

22

23

16

17

17

9

10

11

12

13

1

1

1

1

1

1

AMT651-200 READ THIS BEFORE YOU BEGINTh i s k i t may be bu i l t more than one way. Look over th i s in s t ruc t ion shee t care fu l l y be fore you beg in bu i ld ing . You may dec ide to combine par t s f rom the d i f f e ren t ve r s ions shown, or use par t s f rom o ther AMT k i t s . A f te r you ’ve p lanned your car , fo l low the assembly instructions and "test-fi t" the parts without cementing. This wil l familiarize you with the location of the parts. For the best results, the various sub-assemblies and components should be painted before any chrome parts are attached. For example: When attaching non-chrome body accessories, i t is best to cement them in place and paint the body as a unit. AMT kits are molded from the finest high-impact styrene plastic. Use only paint and cement made for styrene. Trim excess plastic from parts before joining. When attaching chrome parts, scrape plating away where parts are to be joined. Use just enough

cement to join parts, and be careful not to smear cement on exposed surfaces. To duplicate Stock automotive colors using stock aerosol touch-up finishes, use this procedure: First, dust on two coats of AMT Clear Lacquer. When completely dry, follow with a very light coat of touch-up, then apply succeedingly heavier coats unti l the desired finish is achieved. It should be noted that these directions must be very carefully followed, to prevent the usual crazing of the styrene which occurs when automotive lacquers are applied directly. Buil t according to the instructions on this sheet, you should have no trouble assembling your model. Just FOLLOW THE NUMBERS, as the parts are numbered in the order of assembly. NOTE: (C) indicates "chrome" parts.

NOTE: Fan belt mustbe at an angle, for

clearance of exhaustsystem

NOTE: Open thesetwo flashed holes for

“MX” and “DB” versions.

NOTE: Sand off these engraving lines.NOTE: Sand off these

engraving lines.

NOTE: Openflashed hole

NOTE: Position engine and rear suspension units, so the metal axle will slide through the holes freely.

NOTE: Open thesetwo flashed holesfor “DB” version.

NOTE: Open flashed hole

NOTE: If the builder wishes to use the chrome reversed wheels, follow the same assembly procedure used for the “Cragar” mags.

DUNE BUGGY (DB)

MEYERS MANX-STREET (MX-S)

MEYERS MANX (MX)

WHEEL OPTION FRONT WHEELS (MX-S) (DB & MX)

OPTION

REAR WHEELS

Meyers “Manx”THE ORIG INAL

what is the . . .

Providing a more complete package for the builder. Kit includes body, hood and dashboard plus all necessaryhardware, including trim, weatherstripping, fenderwelt, spare tire, mounting bracket, battery mounting bracket and all nuts and bolts.

STOCK VWRUNNING GEAR

Ideally suited for the home craftsman on a budget who is able to fabricate the remaining componentsshown in Kit “B.” Kit includes basic components: body, hood, dashboard and complete instructions.

The Meyers Manx is all things to all men–the perfect car for the man who'd rather build his own.

The Meyers Manx is a kit car you can build for $635 plus old V.W. parts. A fun car that you can license, insure and drive anywhere, anytime.

With the top and side curtains in place it's snug as a bug and waterproof.

In cold weather you can hook up the heater and make it warm.

Put snow tires on it and it'll go through a blizzard that would stop a snowmobile. With super balloon tires it's the perfect dune buggy.

Equip it with racing tires and it'll outhandle and out-brake most any sports car.

Bruce F. Meyers, proprietor of F. Meyers and Company, New-port Beach, California, is the originator, designer and builder of the Meyers Manx.

The Manx, originally designed as a dune buggy, but equally at home on the pavement, got its start when Meyers, a gifted fiberglass artist, was looking for new designs to conquer. He decided on building his own car when he learned that a Porsche he had purchased was out of alignment because of a previous accident.

Most dune buggies at that time were very ugly in appearance–no compound curves–in fact not much of anything in the way of beauty. So Meyers decided he was going to make the best looking dune buggy ever and thus the Manx I was born. It was a full fiberglass "bathtub" carrying Volkswagon running gear. Many of Meyers' friends, after seeing the car, wanted copies, so he set up shop in an old garage and began to produce the Manx I in a kit form that sold for $985. Meyers soon discovered he was losing money on each car he produced and decided to redesign the Manx I. The result was the Mark II which was not a full fiberglass "bathtub," but a fiberglass body that bolted onto a Volkswagon belly pan.

The Mark II was shorter, stiffer, better riding, better handling, lighter, stronger and cheaper than was the Manx I.

Meyers was satisfied, that is, almost satisfied. He had hoped to sell the Mark II Manx as a complete car as well as in kit form. He later discovered to his disappointment that the Volkswagon people sell the little bug as a complete car only and to assemble each Volkswagon chassis from parts would be far too costly. So the Mark II Manx is offered in kit form only with two different kits available. One is a stripped down version that sells for $498 and consists of a beautifully finished laminated fiberglass body shell and a front deck lid and a vacuum formed Cycolac dashboard. The other sells for $635 and includes the above plus windshield and frame headlight housings, cowl frame, rear deck covering, aluminum trim, rubber weather stripping, fender welts and all the neces-sary hardware.

Painting of a Manx is not necessary because color is impreg-nated right into the fiberglass and you can choose from such wild colors as Red, Tangerine, Royal Blue, Yama Yellow, Marine Green or Off White.

The Manx is not difficult to assemble and anyone with average mechanical ability can do the job in a couple of week-ends. The complete cost of your Manx is, of course, dependent on what you pay for the necessary V.W. parts and how far you want to carry the project–the only limitation being your imagi-nation.

For example, you can use the V.W. engine for power or you can switch to a Corvair or Porsche engine, all the way up to 200 H.P. if you wish.

You can install a luxury interior, hardtop, side curtains, mag wheels, 4 wheel disc brakes, fully adjustable suspension and racing tires. You can even put an exotic metalflake paint job on if you wish.

The next two pages show a step by step picture story of how the Meyers Mark II Manx is assembled.

Whether you purchase the Manx Kit "A" or Kit "B" you are going to need a Volkswagon 1200 sedan (1961 or later preferred) floor pan complete with pedal assemble; shift lever and linkage assembly; hand brake; main brake line and master cylinder; front axle and steering assembly; rear transaxle; torsion bar trailing arm assemblies; engine from any year VW sedan, truck, variant, Porsche or Corvair.

It's cheapest to try and pickup a VW that has been

wrecked, usually a roll over, since this type accident usually leaves all necessary parts intact.

After the body has been removed the above parts should remain assembled as a unit on the wheels for ease of construction.

The Volkswagon chassis must be shortened 14 inches plus or minus a 1/4 inch to give an 80 inch wheelbase. This is done by removing a section of the floor pan (see sketch) with a torch or chisel and then welded back together again.

Complete step by step instructions for preparing the

chassis of the Manx are included in the kit.

After the chassis work has been completed the Manx body is mounted. Wiring harness, brake reservoir, and gas tank are now installed. Next comes the front and rear body supports along the with the license plate light.

After this has been completed you are now ready for installation of the dash frame and dash to the hood and the installation of the instrumentation in the dash.

Next the hood and dash assembly are attached to the body.

Last but not least is the mounting of the headlights, steering column, and windshield.

Your Meyers Manx is now about ready to roll unless you want to add some of the many options that are available. These include wide rim wheels, upswept exhaust, skid plate, front and rear bumpers, roll bar, carpeting, and fiberglass top only to mention a few.

Whether you want a stripped down or deluxe mild or wild fun car it can all be had with the Meyers Manx.