Acquisition of Apparel Industry - Kohl's ( 2003-0601 )

Prepared by : Raymond Chong ( Global QA )Prepared by : Raymond Chong ( Global QA ) 11

Colby C5 – Kohl’sColby C5 – Kohl’sAcquisition of Apparel Acquisition of Apparel

IndustryIndustryAgendaAgenda

1.1. IntroductionIntroduction2.2. Sample Development Sample Development 3.3. Fitting TechniqueFitting Technique4.4. Measurement Providing Consideration for Paper Pattern MakingMeasurement Providing Consideration for Paper Pattern Making5.5. Pattern Size and TypePattern Size and Type6.6. FabricFabric7.7. CuttingCutting8.8. InterfacingInterfacing9.9. Needle AccommodationNeedle Accommodation10.10. General TechniqueGeneral Technique11.11. Lab-TestingLab-Testing12.12. Quality Assurance ( Mini QA Center / KWIQ Test )Quality Assurance ( Mini QA Center / KWIQ Test )


1. Introduction1. IntroductionKohl’s CorporationKohl’s Corporation

Kohl's is one of the popular specialty department store chain Kohl's is one of the popular specialty department store chain that targets middle income families.that targets middle income families.

The company operates 457 stores in 33 states of America. The company operates 457 stores in 33 states of America. Kohl's Corp. plans to open 28 stores in Southern California Kohl's Corp. plans to open 28 stores in Southern California within December 2002.within December 2002.

During fiscal 2002, Kohl’s has opened During fiscal 2002, Kohl’s has opened 75 new stores75 new stores. In . In fiscal 2003, Kohl’s fiscal 2003, Kohl’s plans to open approximately 80 plans to open approximately 80 additional stores.additional stores.

Kohl’s tentatively plans to have 900 ~ 1,000 stores by 2005.Kohl’s tentatively plans to have 900 ~ 1,000 stores by 2005.


Colby International LimitedColby International Limited

Colby is under Li&Fung Group starting by 2000, and Colby is under Li&Fung Group starting by 2000, and Global Supply Chain Management is our business. Working Global Supply Chain Management is our business. Working in partnership with our customers, we cater for customers in partnership with our customers, we cater for customers need of competitive pricing, quality, on-time delivery, as need of competitive pricing, quality, on-time delivery, as well as ethical sourcing. We manage the logistics of well as ethical sourcing. We manage the logistics of producing and exporting private label consumer goods producing and exporting private label consumer goods across many producers and countries.across many producers and countries.

Kohl’s is one of the primary Colby customers, and Colby Kohl’s is one of the primary Colby customers, and Colby have been Kohl’s exclusive global agency starting by 1996.have been Kohl’s exclusive global agency starting by 1996.


Competent Product( Kohl's )

Technical Support

Quality Assurance( Colby )

Lab-Testing

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Product Service( Raymond Chong )

Lab Dip Pre-screen

Global ColoristsHong Kong

( Johnny Lai )

Global ColoristsHong Kong

( Johnny Lai )

Kong Kong Thailand Pakistan

IndiaSingaporeTaiwan Korea

Product Testing Review

Laboratory ( ITS )

Laboratory ( ITS )

Approved

Taiwan C. America C. AmericaKorea Singapore Bangladesh India Turkey

Failed

Global QA

Sample Approval / Technical Support

Kong Kong Thailand Vietnam

Sample Approval Pre-production Meeting Production Problem

Local QA Manger / Global

Technician

Approved Rejected( 3rd fit )

Hong Kong Hong Kong

Pakistan

TaiwanTaiwan KoreaKorea SingaporeSingapore IndiaIndia

Philippines Taiwan C. America Korea C. America Singapore Sri-Lanka Bangladesh India Turkey

Global Quality Assurance( Training/ Follow-up/ Monitor )

Kong Kong Taiwan Korea Singapore Thailand India C. America Pakistan Bangladesh TurkeyPhilippines VietnamSri-Lanka


Since 1970’s - 1980’s, the buyers almost believed they could Since 1970’s - 1980’s, the buyers almost believed they could finalize the sample development stage at their end, and send finalize the sample development stage at their end, and send all the stuffs including specification sheet, fit sample and all the stuffs including specification sheet, fit sample and paper pattern ( or marker ) along. They deemed this way paper pattern ( or marker ) along. They deemed this way would be easier to follow for the Far East offices as well as would be easier to follow for the Far East offices as well as the factories.the factories.

However, the buyers gradually found that this way is not However, the buyers gradually found that this way is not accurate as what they wanted eventually, and they have to accurate as what they wanted eventually, and they have to waste much more time during development to shipment in waste much more time during development to shipment in store, which they found they will not be competitive in the fast store, which they found they will not be competitive in the fast pace market.pace market.

2. Sample Development2. Sample Development


The reason is they assigned the freelance sample room for The reason is they assigned the freelance sample room for making fit sample; even they have in-house sample room for making fit sample; even they have in-house sample room for fitting approval. However, after the sample is fitted and fitting approval. However, after the sample is fitted and approved, and they have assigned the freelance pattern room approved, and they have assigned the freelance pattern room for making pattern / marker to save money, which the pattern / for making pattern / marker to save money, which the pattern / marker was not plotted / printed properly. Most likely, the marker was not plotted / printed properly. Most likely, the factories found so many problems on their pattern / marker factories found so many problems on their pattern / marker such shape / silhouette and measurements etc. ...such shape / silhouette and measurements etc. ...

Finally, the Far East offices had to hire some knowledge Finally, the Far East offices had to hire some knowledge experts for checking and follow up, but this way is not also experts for checking and follow up, but this way is not also productivity as well, due to too much argument between head productivity as well, due to too much argument between head quarter, Far East office and factories.quarter, Far East office and factories.


Since 1990’s, the buyers had been much traveling to Far Since 1990’s, the buyers had been much traveling to Far East, and came across a deal with the Far East offices as well East, and came across a deal with the Far East offices as well as the factories, they realized the factories could make the as the factories, they realized the factories could make the paper pattern themselves according to their fitting paper pattern themselves according to their fitting expectation / requirement.expectation / requirement.

On the practice of this way, they found they could be shorten On the practice of this way, they found they could be shorten the lead-time for development stage, and got what they the lead-time for development stage, and got what they wanted in fashion design on time schedule for selling their wanted in fashion design on time schedule for selling their consumers as what they planned.consumers as what they planned.


During the normal practice from 1990’s, most of the buyers During the normal practice from 1990’s, most of the buyers would not send the paper pattern / marker for sampling as would not send the paper pattern / marker for sampling as well as production for Far East offices to follow.well as production for Far East offices to follow.

The buyers only would send the specification sheets with The buyers only would send the specification sheets with sketches ( from Technical Designer ) for following up, and sketches ( from Technical Designer ) for following up, and their Far East offices will have their factories for sampling to their Far East offices will have their factories for sampling to create / make the paper pattern according to the information create / make the paper pattern according to the information from the buyers given.from the buyers given.


Career in fashion including Technical Designer in the wider Career in fashion including Technical Designer in the wider apparel industries become expanding markets, rapid apparel industries become expanding markets, rapid technological change and the internationalization of technological change and the internationalization of production. Indeed, the fact that the industry is world wide, production. Indeed, the fact that the industry is world wide, means there are more and more interesting career opportunities means there are more and more interesting career opportunities even for the people with technical expertise and marketing even for the people with technical expertise and marketing skill.skill.

The global industry needs professional marketing, production The global industry needs professional marketing, production and design personnel to function. Technical Designer, Garment and design personnel to function. Technical Designer, Garment Technologist / Technician, Technical Development Manager, Technologist / Technician, Technical Development Manager, CAD specialist, Designer and can be found all over the world.CAD specialist, Designer and can be found all over the world.

2A. Technical Designer2A. Technical Designer


Technical Designer is not a new generation product in apparel Technical Designer is not a new generation product in apparel industry starting from 1990’s, and most of the famous private industry starting from 1990’s, and most of the famous private labels such Limited Brands, Liz Claiborne, Jones New York, labels such Limited Brands, Liz Claiborne, Jones New York, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan etc. …Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan etc. …

They had have their own technical design team, which their They had have their own technical design team, which their technical designers would work with the fashion designers technical designers would work with the fashion designers closely on technical area such issuing the specification design closely on technical area such issuing the specification design sheets based on the life model figure, doing fitting, and give sheets based on the life model figure, doing fitting, and give technical advice on styling details, construction, workmanship technical advice on styling details, construction, workmanship as well as measurements.as well as measurements.


This specialist is so important in apparel industry nowadays, as This specialist is so important in apparel industry nowadays, as we can see they can provide their expert knowledge for giving we can see they can provide their expert knowledge for giving details to their Far East offices / factories for sampling follow-details to their Far East offices / factories for sampling follow-up, and also helping their fashion designer’s image to up, and also helping their fashion designer’s image to implement in apparel market today, getting the right products in implement in apparel market today, getting the right products in the reasonable timing for selling the market.the reasonable timing for selling the market.

The technical designer checking sample The technical designer checking sample fitting on mannequin formfitting on mannequin form


This position also is not a new generation product nowadays, This position also is not a new generation product nowadays, and we can almost found them in the Far East buying and we can almost found them in the Far East buying offices / agencies, or trading companies, and even in the offices / agencies, or trading companies, and even in the factories. This position is to execute all the requirements factories. This position is to execute all the requirements from specification design sheets issued from technical from specification design sheets issued from technical designers mentioned such construction, workmanship and designers mentioned such construction, workmanship and measurements. They will work closely with technical measurements. They will work closely with technical designer to ensure the sample to be fitted properly, and make designer to ensure the sample to be fitted properly, and make sure the product will not be against the Regulation / Law to sure the product will not be against the Regulation / Law to get approval within the short period.get approval within the short period.

2B. Fitting Technologist / 2B. Fitting Technologist /

Garment TechnicianGarment Technician


This position right now is became more popular in apparel This position right now is became more popular in apparel industry in Far East as most of the production should be in industry in Far East as most of the production should be in the developing countries, Hong Kong becomes a trading the developing countries, Hong Kong becomes a trading center with strong technical support. center with strong technical support.

This garment technologist / technician could be even not just This garment technologist / technician could be even not just work with oversea technical designers, and they could work work with oversea technical designers, and they could work with the factories and the merchandising teams globally for with the factories and the merchandising teams globally for solving any problems to instead of wasting time for the solving any problems to instead of wasting time for the feedback from buyers / technical designers.feedback from buyers / technical designers.


Furthermore, some of customers still do not have their own Furthermore, some of customers still do not have their own technical designer there such La Reduote, Alice Export technical designer there such La Reduote, Alice Export etc., they need more technical input from the garment etc., they need more technical input from the garment technologist / technician to provide the knowledge for technologist / technician to provide the knowledge for solving the uncertain problems.solving the uncertain problems.

Garment technologist / technician also has to make sure Garment technologist / technician also has to make sure that all garments are developed and produced to the that all garments are developed and produced to the specified quality standards, taking into account factors specified quality standards, taking into account factors such as garment construction, durability, regulatory and such as garment construction, durability, regulatory and washability. So they will need an eye for detail, a logical washability. So they will need an eye for detail, a logical approach, excellent communication skills and the ability to approach, excellent communication skills and the ability to influence at all levels, not to mention a flair for fashion.influence at all levels, not to mention a flair for fashion.


Fashion DesignFashion Design Every design is made up of lines -- Seams, skirt and sleeve Every design is made up of lines -- Seams, skirt and sleeve lengths, collars, pockets, belts, yokes, and buttonholes make lengths, collars, pockets, belts, yokes, and buttonholes make lines. Decorative features, such as tucks, pleats, and special lines. Decorative features, such as tucks, pleats, and special stitching, also make lines. The use of two or more colors or stitching, also make lines. The use of two or more colors or textures gives an effect of lines. Fabric design, such as stripes textures gives an effect of lines. Fabric design, such as stripes and plaids, is made up of lines. and plaids, is made up of lines.

3. Fitting Technique3. Fitting Technique3A. Choosing Fashion Design3A. Choosing Fashion Design


The outside lines form the silhouette or outline of a garment – The outside lines form the silhouette or outline of a garment – Good silhouette lines are related to the shape of the body. No part Good silhouette lines are related to the shape of the body. No part of the body should seem out of proportion to other parts. These of the body should seem out of proportion to other parts. These are the four basic clothing silhouettes: are the four basic clothing silhouettes: Hourglass Hourglass Inverted triangle Inverted triangle Triangle Triangle Rectangle Rectangle

Fashion silhouettes can create a more pleasing body shape. Fashion silhouettes can create a more pleasing body shape. They can counter certain body imbalances and create better They can counter certain body imbalances and create better balance and proportion. balance and proportion.


Study your own figure / build and choose lines to help you look Study your own figure / build and choose lines to help you look the way you would like to look. Would you like to look taller and the way you would like to look. Would you like to look taller and more slender ?! Then choose these : more slender ?! Then choose these : 1. Designs or fabrics with vertical lines, because they carry the 1. Designs or fabrics with vertical lines, because they carry the

eye up and down. eye up and down. 2. Outfits that are all one color, because this gives the effect of 2. Outfits that are all one color, because this gives the effect of

a long, unbroken line. a long, unbroken line. 3. Slim lines in ties, pants, skirts. 3. Slim lines in ties, pants, skirts.

Would you like to look shorter and broader ?! Then choose these : Would you like to look shorter and broader ?! Then choose these : 1. Designs or fabrics with horizontal lines. 1. Designs or fabrics with horizontal lines. 2. Contrasting belts or jackets. 2. Contrasting belts or jackets. 3. Full-cut pants, skirts. 3. Full-cut pants, skirts.


ColorColor Most preteens, teens and juniors can wear many different Most preteens, teens and juniors can wear many different colors, but usually two or three colors do " Something colors, but usually two or three colors do " Something Special " for you. One way to decide is to drape fabric of Special " for you. One way to decide is to drape fabric of different colors around your neck. Look into a well-lighted different colors around your neck. Look into a well-lighted mirror and watch the results. If possible, check this in mirror and watch the results. If possible, check this in natural light. natural light.

3B. Choosing Color3B. Choosing Color


Your choice of color can do more than any other thing to Your choice of color can do more than any other thing to make make

your outfit becoming to you. A color is a good choice if : your outfit becoming to you. A color is a good choice if : 1. It brings out the best in your skin. 1. It brings out the best in your skin. 2. It is a pleasing contrast to your eyes and hair. 2. It is a pleasing contrast to your eyes and hair. 3. It flatters your figure / build. 3. It flatters your figure / build. 4. It gives you a lift or happy feeling. 4. It gives you a lift or happy feeling.

PS: Colby well understood how importance of Color, the PS: Colby well understood how importance of Color, the PrescreenPrescreen process have been setup to have process have been setup to have Global Global ColoristsColorists. In order to make sure all lab-dip, bulk . In order to make sure all lab-dip, bulk swatches to be consistent in one tone.swatches to be consistent in one tone.


Styling & Design Styling & Design

The most important concern from fashion designers’ point of The most important concern from fashion designers’ point of view is their design, and we have to bear in mind to be “ NO view is their design, and we have to bear in mind to be “ NO change “on the styling always, remember which related to change “on the styling always, remember which related to their their IMAGEIMAGE..

3C. Styling & Design3C. Styling & Design


Below is some groups of design lines : --Below is some groups of design lines : --

Country GroupCountry Group

Essential GroupEssential Group


Studio GroupStudio Group

Classic GroupClassic Group


The achievement of fitting purpose is to have a feeling for the The achievement of fitting purpose is to have a feeling for the consumers of self-confidence, which comes from knowing that consumers of self-confidence, which comes from knowing that your clothes are comfortable and attractive. So, you have to your clothes are comfortable and attractive. So, you have to stand on the consumers’ position for getting to ask yourself “ stand on the consumers’ position for getting to ask yourself “ Will I buy this garment ?! “ Will I buy this garment ?! “

So, a garment is, or is not fitted / balance will be influenced the So, a garment is, or is not fitted / balance will be influenced the style looking, and the 1style looking, and the 1stst feeling from the consumers when they feeling from the consumers when they get the 1get the 1stst fitting, and this will be decided to be success or fitting, and this will be decided to be success or failure on this style as we can see if the consumer is willing to failure on this style as we can see if the consumer is willing to buy this garment.buy this garment.

3D. Fitting & Balance on Dress Form / 3D. Fitting & Balance on Dress Form /

Mannequin & Life ModelMannequin & Life Model


Just by wearing your clothes, you Just by wearing your clothes, you are modeling. You are always on are modeling. You are always on display, whether on the street, at display, whether on the street, at home, school, or play, or at the home, school, or play, or at the parties or anywhere. You could parties or anywhere. You could learn your posture to be self-learn your posture to be self-confidence, your walk are early in confidence, your walk are early in life, and you can improve these life, and you can improve these and enhance your appearance and and enhance your appearance and the way by your clothes look on the way by your clothes look on you. You can also gain poise in you. You can also gain poise in the process.the process.


Poise is the ability to be bigger Poise is the ability to be bigger than oneself, to forget self-than oneself, to forget self-consciousness. Poise can make consciousness. Poise can make you master a situation even you master a situation even when things go against you. when things go against you. Poise is balance. Try balancing Poise is balance. Try balancing others' interests with your own, others' interests with your own, talking about the things in talking about the things in which they are interested. First, which they are interested. First, of course, you need to be sure of course, you need to be sure of yourself. It helps to feel you of yourself. It helps to feel you look your best -- neat and look your best -- neat and suitably dressed.suitably dressed.


So, “ Poise “ is more important So, “ Poise “ is more important on fitting than following any on fitting than following any rule, and calculating method of rule, and calculating method of measurements, and it involved measurements, and it involved judgment, understanding and judgment, understanding and taste. Most of the pattern makers taste. Most of the pattern makers in apparel industry, they did not in apparel industry, they did not understand / realize the fitting understand / realize the fitting purpose, just focus on purpose, just focus on measurement requirement. So, measurement requirement. So, they would almost just said “ they would almost just said “ Sample is hit the measurements Sample is hit the measurements you provided already “ …you provided already “ …


( I ) Body Figure understanding( I ) Body Figure understanding You have to know the clothes for what kind of consumers you You have to know the clothes for what kind of consumers you will fit for as you will get more idea about the human body will fit for as you will get more idea about the human body

figure figure shape for different ages.shape for different ages. 1.1. For infants to pre-teen – Body figure should be O, or H shapeFor infants to pre-teen – Body figure should be O, or H shape2.2. For preteen to missy – Body figure should be V, or X shapeFor preteen to missy – Body figure should be V, or X shape3.3. For missy to women – Body shape should be X, or O shapeFor missy to women – Body shape should be X, or O shape4.4. For women – Body figure should be O, or A shapeFor women – Body figure should be O, or A shape5.5. For boy to men – Body figure should be H, or V shapeFor boy to men – Body figure should be H, or V shape6.6. For elder men – Body shape should be O, or A shapeFor elder men – Body shape should be O, or A shape


For boy to men – Body figure should be H, or V shapeFor boy to men – Body figure should be H, or V shapeFor elder men – Body shape should be O, or A shapeFor elder men – Body shape should be O, or A shape


For preteen to missy – Body figure should be V, or X shapeFor preteen to missy – Body figure should be V, or X shapeFor missy to women – Body shape should be X, or O shapeFor missy to women – Body shape should be X, or O shape


For infants to pre-teen – Body figure should be O, or H shapeFor infants to pre-teen – Body figure should be O, or H shape


( I ) Below are the criteria for fitting purpose :--( I ) Below are the criteria for fitting purpose :-- A . Large / Small bust A . Large / Small bust B . Swayback / CollapseB . Swayback / CollapseC . Dart / Pleat placement C . Dart / Pleat placement D . Sleeve length and width D . Sleeve length and width E . Shoulders E . Shoulders

1 .Broad / Narrow1 .Broad / Narrow2 .Square / Round2 .Square / Round3 .Sloping 3 .Sloping

F . Large abdomen F . Large abdomen G . Crotch length and shape G . Crotch length and shape H . HipsH . Hips


Hiking Front / Lifting Up --Hiking Front / Lifting Up -- Woven and Knit :Woven and Knit :

Balance is off front and back. Balance is off front and back. This problem is always This problem is always occurredoccurredon woven, knit & sweater on woven, knit & sweater item. So, should give more item. So, should give more roomy on front panel by roomy on front panel by length back atlength back atback shoulder is the one of back shoulder is the one of solution.solution.

Most likely, balance can be fixed by paper pattern alteration, Most likely, balance can be fixed by paper pattern alteration, but sometime, measurements have to be adjusted / revised.but sometime, measurements have to be adjusted / revised.


The usual pattern correction will be as following :--The usual pattern correction will be as following :--

• To pick up across back by To pick up across back by certain amount ( e.g. certain amount ( e.g. 3/4” ) from CB to back 3/4” ) from CB to back armhole consistently, armhole consistently, which will give which will give roominess for bust of roominess for bust of front panel.front panel.

• Armhole circumference Armhole circumference has to be adjusted by has to be adjusted by scooping at the underarm scooping at the underarm front and back.front and back.

• Shift shoulder seam front Shift shoulder seam front forwards ( e.g. 3/8” ), in forwards ( e.g. 3/8” ), in order to drop the front order to drop the front panel for giving more panel for giving more roomy for the bust area.roomy for the bust area.


Sweater :Sweater :

Usually, the hiking problem Usually, the hiking problem would not be happen on sweater would not be happen on sweater item, as sweater is weaving item, as sweater is weaving panel to instead of making panel to instead of making pattern, cut and sewn process. pattern, cut and sewn process.

However, it would happen on However, it would happen on the women’s style as the reason the women’s style as the reason is the yarn nature is twisted is the yarn nature is twisted before weaving panel, after the before weaving panel, after the garments have been washed. garments have been washed. The torque problem will be The torque problem will be coming caused the balance coming caused the balance problem.problem.


The correction to be done when the sweater is hiking on front :The correction to be done when the sweater is hiking on front :

• Back panel should be Back panel should be knitted longer ( e.g. 3/8” ) knitted longer ( e.g. 3/8” ) than front on shoulder to than front on shoulder to give more roominess for give more roominess for front, which back front, which back shoulder seam will be shoulder seam will be front forwards.front forwards.

• Armhole depth ( purple Armhole depth ( purple color ) front and back color ) front and back must be the same amount.must be the same amount.

PS : Remember to have PS : Remember to have Saddle width at underarm Saddle width at underarm front and back.front and back.


Armhole and sleeve cap looks clean on red, and bunching Armhole and sleeve cap looks clean on red, and bunching excess fabric on pink one.excess fabric on pink one.


Bunching at armhole / sleeve cap :--Bunching at armhole / sleeve cap :--

This is the usual problem on sweater item, though sweater is This is the usual problem on sweater item, though sweater is not on cut & sewn process for making up.not on cut & sewn process for making up.

However, the excess fabric can be reduced as illustrations However, the excess fabric can be reduced as illustrations by increasing the saddle width at underarm of armhole of by increasing the saddle width at underarm of armhole of body side, and underarm of sleeve side.body side, and underarm of sleeve side.

The saddle width should be adjusted according to the The saddle width should be adjusted according to the different gender and different size. Below is guide :--different gender and different size. Below is guide :--

Men & Women – 1-1/4” to 1-1/2”Men & Women – 1-1/4” to 1-1/2”Missy, Petite & Junior – ¾” to 1”Missy, Petite & Junior – ¾” to 1”Children – ½” to ¾”Children – ½” to ¾”


Armhole looks good on mushroom, and gapping armhole on Armhole looks good on mushroom, and gapping armhole on black one.black one.

Armhole Gapping :--Armhole Gapping :--


Stretch Side Zip PantStretch Side Zip Pant

Too much excess fabric at front crotch.Too much excess fabric at front crotch.Due to front rise too angle, and no Due to front rise too angle, and no hook at bottom of front rise saddle. hook at bottom of front rise saddle. Proportion of Hip / Seat measurement Proportion of Hip / Seat measurement may be built improperly.may be built improperly.


Stretch CarpiStretch Carpi

Drag-line at front crotch ( which we Drag-line at front crotch ( which we call smiling ). Due to rise width too call smiling ). Due to rise width too narrow, back rise and inseam too narrow, back rise and inseam too short. Also, front rise too short / tight. short. Also, front rise too short / tight. Also, inseam is lean too much and Also, inseam is lean too much and outseam too straight is also caused the outseam too straight is also caused the same problem.same problem.


Beside of the problems too Beside of the problems too narrow of Rise Width.narrow of Rise Width.

The leg panel is not placed at The leg panel is not placed at Center will also cause the inseam Center will also cause the inseam is pulling upwards with drag-is pulling upwards with drag-line / hiking problem. To shift the line / hiking problem. To shift the panel to be placed at center, and panel to be placed at center, and that is we called the proper Grain-that is we called the proper Grain-Line is also so important on Line is also so important on fitting bottom style.fitting bottom style.


Nylon JacketNylon Jacket

The interfacing is shrunk, and the The interfacing is shrunk, and the bond strength is not accommodated bond strength is not accommodated with the self fabric caused the front with the self fabric caused the front placket is pulling, wrinkling, placket is pulling, wrinkling, puckering, and does not look nice.puckering, and does not look nice.

Also, Yarn Displacement, Tension Also, Yarn Displacement, Tension Puckering, Machine Puckering will Puckering, Machine Puckering will cause puckering wrinkling also.cause puckering wrinkling also.

PS :PS :For interlining, please refer to the topic of Interfacing for For interlining, please refer to the topic of Interfacing for getting more informationgetting more information


IntroductionIntroduction

Seam Puckering refers to the gathering of a Seam Puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.causing an unacceptable seam appearance.

Seam puckering is more common on woven fabrics than knits; Seam puckering is more common on woven fabrics than knits; and it is prominent on tightly woven fabrics. Puckering is and it is prominent on tightly woven fabrics. Puckering is usually caused by one or more of the following conditions :--usually caused by one or more of the following conditions :--Yarn Displacement (Structural Jamming) Yarn Displacement (Structural Jamming) Tension Puckering (Excessive Thread Tension) Tension Puckering (Excessive Thread Tension) Machine Puckering (Uneven ply feeding)Machine Puckering (Uneven ply feeding)

More details :--More details :--http://www.amefird.com/seam_puckering_bulletin.htm


Woven Silk Satin TopWoven Silk Satin Top

A silk charmeuse blouse with A silk charmeuse blouse with point collar and cuffs creates point collar and cuffs creates a striking nice silhouette. a striking nice silhouette. Proper fit size and softness, Proper fit size and softness, and nothing is more sensuous and nothing is more sensuous than the feel of fine silk satin than the feel of fine silk satin next to your skin.next to your skin.

Below are some styles with nice fit lookingBelow are some styles with nice fit looking :-- :--


Nice Knit TopNice Knit Top

Proper measurement Proper measurement provided to accommodate provided to accommodate with body figure.with body figure.


V-Notch SweaterV-Notch Sweater

Looks clean, neat and Looks clean, neat and fittedfitted


Turtle Neck CashmereTurtle Neck Cashmere

Look clean and neat, and Look clean and neat, and comfort and nice design comfort and nice design with raglan.with raglan.


Dress BottomDress Bottom

Look clean, neat and Look clean, neat and comfortcomfort


SkirtSkirt

Hanging Nice and ComfortHanging Nice and Comfort


Matte Jersey Wrap DressMatte Jersey Wrap Dress

Looks clean, comfort and Looks clean, comfort and will not wrinkle during will not wrinkle during travelingtraveling


Suits / BlazerSuits / Blazer

Classic pinstripe suit gets a Classic pinstripe suit gets a modern fitmodern fit


Long CoatLong Coat

A luxurious blend of wool A luxurious blend of wool and angora classic coat. and angora classic coat. Five-button front closureFive-button front closure


This is the substantial issue during fitting, and as we can see This is the substantial issue during fitting, and as we can see the measurements always have been changed / revised during the measurements always have been changed / revised during fitting stage, because if the style would be looking good or fitting stage, because if the style would be looking good or not, the provided measurements are so important.not, the provided measurements are so important.

Initially, the measurement providing is not accurate always Initially, the measurement providing is not accurate always as the technical design is just presumed what their as the technical design is just presumed what their experience / history is. So, that’s why fitting is a must, and experience / history is. So, that’s why fitting is a must, and during fitting the measurements will be adjust, adjust and during fitting the measurements will be adjust, adjust and revise, until to have a proper fit.revise, until to have a proper fit.

3E. Measurements3E. Measurements


For example : --For example : --Low Waist JeanLow Waist Jean

Initially, if the rise length Initially, if the rise length front and back are given front and back are given compatible, but the outseam compatible, but the outseam and inseam length giving is and inseam length giving is based on normal waist style, based on normal waist style, we will foresee the style we will foresee the style become dipping waist at CF become dipping waist at CF and CB then. The sample and CB then. The sample will be looking odd and will be looking odd and funny.funny.


The initial inseam is given The initial inseam is given 30”, but outseam length is 30”, but outseam length is given 39” as a Normal rise / given 39” as a Normal rise / waist style for a Low rise / waist style for a Low rise / waist jean style.waist jean style.

The side seam will be rose The side seam will be rose up, which the balance is up, which the balance is completely wrong.completely wrong.


PS : PS : For above case, experienced Technical Designer will For above case, experienced Technical Designer will either give the inseam length, or outseam length at the either give the inseam length, or outseam length at the preliminary stage. Let factory to calculate for another one preliminary stage. Let factory to calculate for another one by themselves when drafting the paper pattern then.by themselves when drafting the paper pattern then.

Furthermore, sample hit the request measurement is easier Furthermore, sample hit the request measurement is easier than hit a better-looking fit. So, it is necessary to adjust / than hit a better-looking fit. So, it is necessary to adjust / revise the measurement during fitting stage progress.revise the measurement during fitting stage progress.


However, after the sample has been fit approval to keep and However, after the sample has been fit approval to keep and maintain the approved silhouette, the measurements are so maintain the approved silhouette, the measurements are so important to mark down for grading, and for production important to mark down for grading, and for production implement and control use.implement and control use.

PS : The final measurements is almost the finished garment PS : The final measurements is almost the finished garment measurement has to be, and this is the responsibility of measurement has to be, and this is the responsibility of factories to test the bulk fabric shrinkage, and adjust into factories to test the bulk fabric shrinkage, and adjust into their paper pattern / marker according to the final spec their paper pattern / marker according to the final spec before cutting.before cutting.


The garment looks cheap or elegance is depended on how the The garment looks cheap or elegance is depended on how the construction should be, and most likely, the buyers will not construction should be, and most likely, the buyers will not consider this condition, which is designers’ concern, and consider this condition, which is designers’ concern, and would effect their design image.would effect their design image.

Sometime, construction will be ignored, or cannot be Sometime, construction will be ignored, or cannot be implemented, because of costing issue, or mass production implemented, because of costing issue, or mass production procedure in Far East factories ( such as OPA ).procedure in Far East factories ( such as OPA ).

3F. Construction3F. Construction


The garment looks cheap or The garment looks cheap or elegance. It depends on the elegance. It depends on the sewing construction.sewing construction.

Learn more from below web sites :--Learn more from below web sites :--http://craftandfabriclinks.com/sewingbook/sewbook.htmhttp://www.sewingweb.com/dictionary/http://www.sewing.com/dictionary/index.shtml


The amount of ease The amount of ease calculated for Pattern Maker calculated for Pattern Maker patterns is moderate, patterns is moderate, according to prevailing according to prevailing fashion. Ease for basic fashion. Ease for basic patterns ( Basic bodice, Skirt patterns ( Basic bodice, Skirt and Pants ) is predetermined and Pants ) is predetermined and cannot be changed. and cannot be changed. They are close-fitting They are close-fitting garments with only the garments with only the needed fitting ease added. needed fitting ease added.

Pattern MakerPattern Maker


If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body, pants or skirt pieces vertically in two and move body, pants or skirt pieces vertically in two and move parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. Don't add or decrease anything to side, the desired result. Don't add or decrease anything to side, armscye or sleeve seams.armscye or sleeve seams.

This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding space to ( only ) side seams.enlarged also by adding space to ( only ) side seams.


Paper patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body Paper patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body measurements because you could not move in the finished measurements because you could not move in the finished garment. Also fashion determines how much ease there is in garment. Also fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments. Jackets, dresses and blouses, for example, certain garments. Jackets, dresses and blouses, for example, are rather tight fitting and body hugging nowadays. A few are rather tight fitting and body hugging nowadays. A few years ago, jackets used to be boxy and straight.years ago, jackets used to be boxy and straight.

4. Measurements Providing 4. Measurements Providing Consideration for Consideration for

Paper Pattern MakingPaper Pattern Making


Technical Designer would provide proper measurements for Technical Designer would provide proper measurements for development / pattern making. The initial specification will be development / pattern making. The initial specification will be adjusted / revised during fitting until to have a fit / proper fit.adjusted / revised during fitting until to have a fit / proper fit.

The amount of ease calculated for Pattern Maker patterns is The amount of ease calculated for Pattern Maker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion. Ease for basic moderate, according to prevailing fashion. Ease for basic patterns ( Basic bodice, Skirt and Pants ) is predetermined and patterns ( Basic bodice, Skirt and Pants ) is predetermined and cannot be changed. They are close-fitting garments with only cannot be changed. They are close-fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added. the needed fitting ease added.


If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body, pants or skirt pieces vertically in two and move parts body, pants or skirt pieces vertically in two and move parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. Don't add or decrease anything to side, armscye or result. Don't add or decrease anything to side, armscye or sleeve seams.sleeve seams.

This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding space to ( only ) side seams. space to ( only ) side seams.


The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease for fitting and designs and you have to add the needed ease for fitting and style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as is for any style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as is for any garment. It will fit like " a second skin ". garment. It will fit like " a second skin ".

The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease, which cannot The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease, which cannot be changed. It is a garment similar to a men's dress shirt be changed. It is a garment similar to a men's dress shirt with dropped sleeve caps. If you want to sew a more fitted with dropped sleeve caps. If you want to sew a more fitted shirt, use blouse macro and leave darts unsewn. shirt, use blouse macro and leave darts unsewn.


Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Normal and Maximum.Normal and Maximum.

You should always make your first garment ( fit sample ) You should always make your first garment ( fit sample ) with normal ease based on the body figure measurements. with normal ease based on the body figure measurements. This is good for most cases. It contains enough wearing This is good for most cases. It contains enough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design. ease as well as the ease needed for garment design.

Formula :--Formula :--

Body figure measurements + Proper Ease Body figure measurements + Proper Ease = Garment Measurements= Garment Measurements


Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease. Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease. Minimum ease: Minimum ease: Garments of very thin fabrics Garments of very thin fabrics Close-fitting garments and evening dresses Close-fitting garments and evening dresses Garments made of elastic fabrics Garments made of elastic fabrics Closely fitting sleeveless dresses Closely fitting sleeveless dresses Underwear Underwear


Maximum ease: Maximum ease: Garments of thick fabrics Garments of thick fabrics Jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use Jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use Garments for leisure use Garments for leisure use

Loose-fitting garments like ( tunics, T-shirts, Loose-fitting garments like ( tunics, T-shirts, sweaters etc. ) outer garments to be worn over sweaters etc. ) outer garments to be worn over

other garments other garments


You might want your garments to have more ease or less You might want your garments to have more ease or less ease than normally used. Once you are familiar with the ease than normally used. Once you are familiar with the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes. By testing different minimum according to your wishes. By testing different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes. eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes.

You should not change your actual body measurements in You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won't work. You don't order to increase or decrease ease. It won't work. You don't know all the measurements, which have to be changed or know all the measurements, which have to be changed or cannot change them as the program calculates some cannot change them as the program calculates some measurements for you. measurements for you.


Ease is normally described by giving ease at bust circumference. Ease is normally described by giving ease at bust circumference.

There is also ease at other places such as at neck circumference, There is also ease at other places such as at neck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc.

These eases are not given in the table hereunder but theThese eases are not given in the table hereunder but thedifferences correspond to bust ease.differences correspond to bust ease.

4A. Ease Chart4A. Ease Chart


Basic bodice : Basic bodice : Bust +8 cm Bust +8 cm

Skirt : Skirt : Waist +2 cm , Abdomen and hip +3 Waist +2 cm , Abdomen and hip +3 cmcm

Pants : Pants : Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +4 cm Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +4 cm

Pullover : Pullover : Minimum, bust -2 cm, Minimum, bust -2 cm, Normal, bust +0 cm, Normal, bust +0 cm, Maximum, bust +8 cm Maximum, bust +8 cm

Blouse : Blouse : Minimum, bust +10 cm,Minimum, bust +10 cm,Normal, bust +12 cm,Normal, bust +12 cm,Maximum, bust +14 cm Maximum, bust +14 cm


Jacket : Jacket : Minimum, bust +12 cm,Minimum, bust +12 cm,Normal, bust +14 cm,Normal, bust +14 cm,Maximum, bust +16 cm Maximum, bust +16 cm

Dress :Dress : Minimum, bust +10 cm, Minimum, bust +10 cm, Normal, bust +12 cm, Normal, bust +12 cm, Maximum, bust +14 cmMaximum, bust +14 cm

Shirt : Shirt : Bust +16 cm Bust +16 cm

Minimum Head Stretch :Minimum Head Stretch : Minimum, head +8cmMinimum, head +8cm


Space for shoulder pads is Space for shoulder pads is included in jacket and fitting included in jacket and fitting blouse patterns. Shirt, dress blouse patterns. Shirt, dress and pullover are designed and pullover are designed without shoulder pads.without shoulder pads.

4B. Shoulder Pads4B. Shoulder Pads

If you want to add shoulder pads to these garments, raise If you want to add shoulder pads to these garments, raise shoulder tip / slope at front and back 1/2 - 3/4 inch ( 1 - 2 cm ) shoulder tip / slope at front and back 1/2 - 3/4 inch ( 1 - 2 cm ) and lengthen shoulder 1/2 - 3/4 inch ( 1 - 2 cm ). Also, raise at and lengthen shoulder 1/2 - 3/4 inch ( 1 - 2 cm ). Also, raise at top of sleeve cap by same amount by which you raised top of sleeve cap by same amount by which you raised shoulder tip / slope.shoulder tip / slope.


The fabric is stretchable, which is almost weaved with elasticity The fabric is stretchable, which is almost weaved with elasticity yarn from DuPont LYCRA®, or spandex ( in the market ) and yarn from DuPont LYCRA®, or spandex ( in the market ) and which they can provide high degree of extensibility and quick which they can provide high degree of extensibility and quick recovery.recovery.

However, the fabric can be extended and recovered well is However, the fabric can be extended and recovered well is depend on the quality of the stretchable yarn, and that’s why depend on the quality of the stretchable yarn, and that’s why some of private labels are still willing to purchase the more some of private labels are still willing to purchase the more expensive stretchable yarn from DuPont LYCRA®. Because expensive stretchable yarn from DuPont LYCRA®. Because there will have NO guarantee for good quality from purchasing there will have NO guarantee for good quality from purchasing the spandex yarn in market. So, measurement providing will be the spandex yarn in market. So, measurement providing will be concealed judgment consideration.concealed judgment consideration.

4C. Stretch Fabric4C. Stretch Fabric


The stretch factor generally ranges from at least 30% to 50%, The stretch factor generally ranges from at least 30% to 50%, or more with no more than 5% to 6% loss in recovery. So, the or more with no more than 5% to 6% loss in recovery. So, the measurements providing for stretch fabric is more important measurements providing for stretch fabric is more important adding judgment and understanding. Such stretch fabric is best adding judgment and understanding. Such stretch fabric is best adapted to bodysuit, skiwear, athletic clothing, professional adapted to bodysuit, skiwear, athletic clothing, professional types of active sportswear etc.types of active sportswear etc.

Stretch involved in various movements of the body parts is Stretch involved in various movements of the body parts is reported in the New Encyclopedia of Textiles as below :--reported in the New Encyclopedia of Textiles as below :--


Back Flex : Across – 13% - 16%Back Flex : Across – 13% - 16% Seat Flex : Across – 4% - 6%Seat Flex : Across – 4% - 6% Knee Flex : Knee Flex : Vertical ( lengthwise ) – 35% - 45%Vertical ( lengthwise ) – 35% - 45%

Horizontal ( circumference ) – 12% - 14%Horizontal ( circumference ) – 12% - 14% Elbow FlexElbow Flex Vertical ( lengthwise ) – 35% - 40%Vertical ( lengthwise ) – 35% - 40%

Horizontal ( circumference ) – 15% - 22%Horizontal ( circumference ) – 15% - 22%


If you want the garments you sew to fit properly, you must If you want the garments you sew to fit properly, you must have the correct pattern size, and that depends on your have the correct pattern size, and that depends on your body Figure measurements and your figure / build type. body Figure measurements and your figure / build type. That is very important to have a fit garment.That is very important to have a fit garment.

5. Pattern Size and Type5. Pattern Size and Type


5A. Body Figure5A. Body Figure

Measure your body. Accurate measurements are vital. Have Measure your body. Accurate measurements are vital. Have someone help you. Take the measurements over the someone help you. Take the measurements over the undergarments you normally wear. Update this information as undergarments you normally wear. Update this information as you grow.you grow.

Live model for fitting garment must be kept with his / her Live model for fitting garment must be kept with his / her body figure shape to be stable. It is very difficult to fit the body figure shape to be stable. It is very difficult to fit the proper garment on the live model for maternity, newborn and proper garment on the live model for maternity, newborn and infant style.infant style.


Find your figure type. Your figure type is based on body Find your figure type. Your figure type is based on body proportions and height. Check the back of pattern catalogs to proportions and height. Check the back of pattern catalogs to select the type you are most like. select the type you are most like.

Select your size. Your measurements and figure type lead Select your size. Your measurements and figure type lead you to your pattern size. Your ready-to-wear size is not you to your pattern size. Your ready-to-wear size is not necessarily the exact same as your pattern size. necessarily the exact same as your pattern size.


Females : Tie a string around your waist; where it settles is your Females : Tie a string around your waist; where it settles is your natural waistline. ( Young girls may have to bend sideways to natural waistline. ( Young girls may have to bend sideways to find it ). find it ).

1. Bust : Measure around fullest part.1. Bust : Measure around fullest part.2. High bust : Measure around widest part of back, under the 2. High bust : Measure around widest part of back, under the arms, and above fullest part of neckline.arms, and above fullest part of neckline.3. Waist : Measure around natural waistline.3. Waist : Measure around natural waistline.4. Hips : Measure around fullest part, about 7 inches from 4. Hips : Measure around fullest part, about 7 inches from waist. A second measure could be 9 inches from waist. A second measure could be 9 inches from waist.waist.5. Back waist length : Measure from prominent bone at back 5. Back waist length : Measure from prominent bone at back neck base down to natural waistline.neck base down to natural waistline.6. Height : Measure without shoes, against a wall. 6. Height : Measure without shoes, against a wall.


Males : Tie a string around your waist; where it settles is your Males : Tie a string around your waist; where it settles is your natural waistline. Neck : Measure around neck at base. natural waistline. Neck : Measure around neck at base. 1. Chest : Measure around fullest part.1. Chest : Measure around fullest part.2. Waist : Measure around waist along string.2. Waist : Measure around waist along string.3. Hips : Measure around fullest part, about 6 inches below 3. Hips : Measure around fullest part, about 6 inches below waist for boys, 7 inches for teenaged boys, and 8 waist for boys, 7 inches for teenaged boys, and 8 inches for adult men.inches for adult men.4. Inseam : Measure inside leg to desired pants length.4. Inseam : Measure inside leg to desired pants length.5. Height : Measure without shoes, against wall.5. Height : Measure without shoes, against wall.

Other measurements may be needed for males and females so Other measurements may be needed for males and females so they can alter certain pattern styles.they can alter certain pattern styles.


Size 3-6M : Newborn Body MeasurementsSize 3-6M : Newborn Body Measurements


Size 12M : Infant Body MeasurementsSize 12M : Infant Body Measurements


Size 3T : Toddler ( Boy & Girl ) Body MeasurementsSize 3T : Toddler ( Boy & Girl ) Body Measurements


Size 6 : Girl & Boy Body MeasurementsSize 6 : Girl & Boy Body Measurements


Size 12 : Girl Body MeasurementsSize 12 : Girl Body Measurements


Size 12-1/2 Plus : Girl Body MeasurementsSize 12-1/2 Plus : Girl Body Measurements


Size 12 Slim : Boy Body MeasurementsSize 12 Slim : Boy Body Measurements


Size 12 : Boy Body MeasurementsSize 12 : Boy Body Measurements


Size 12-1/2 Husky : Boy Body MeasurementsSize 12-1/2 Husky : Boy Body Measurements


Size 7/9 : Junior Body MeasurementsSize 7/9 : Junior Body Measurements


Size 22 ( 2X ) : Women Plus Body MeasurementsSize 22 ( 2X ) : Women Plus Body Measurements


Size 10/12 : Petite Body MeasurementsSize 10/12 : Petite Body Measurements


Size 10/12 : Missy Body MeasurementsSize 10/12 : Missy Body Measurements


Size 40 : Men’s & Young Men’s Body MeasurementsSize 40 : Men’s & Young Men’s Body Measurements


5B. Grading5B. Grading

Once the silhouette have been taken accurately, that means the Once the silhouette have been taken accurately, that means the fit is approved on the fit is approved on the Base SizeBase Size, then the next step is Grading , then the next step is Grading to have all size range for production to be the same to have all size range for production to be the same proportion / fit in the different sizes.proportion / fit in the different sizes.

Actually, Technical Designer has set the proper grade rule, and Actually, Technical Designer has set the proper grade rule, and the graded measurements will be automatically filled in, once the graded measurements will be automatically filled in, once the accurate data of base size have been inputted.the accurate data of base size have been inputted.

However, factory has their responsibility to across check if any However, factory has their responsibility to across check if any grading given is not proportion, and advise Technical Designer grading given is not proportion, and advise Technical Designer to revise proportionally.to revise proportionally.


Check the view you plan to make. Select the pattern pieces for Check the view you plan to make. Select the pattern pieces for the view you are making, and return the other pieces to the the view you are making, and return the other pieces to the envelope.envelope. Study your specification sheet. Find the diagrams that show Study your specification sheet. Find the diagrams that show how to place a pattern on fabric for cutting. Circle the one you how to place a pattern on fabric for cutting. Circle the one you plan to follow. plan to follow.

Your specification sheet has instructions on how to use your Your specification sheet has instructions on how to use your pattern and specification sheet. These are only suggestions, pattern and specification sheet. These are only suggestions, and you may make changes according to the fabric you are and you may make changes according to the fabric you are using, your skills, and your leader or other persons helping using, your skills, and your leader or other persons helping you.you.

5C. How to Use Paper Pattern 5C. How to Use Paper Pattern ( Marker )( Marker )


Place your fabric and pattern on a large, hard, smooth surface. Place your fabric and pattern on a large, hard, smooth surface. After your fabric has been preshrunk and straightened, fold it After your fabric has been preshrunk and straightened, fold it with right sides together. The exception to this is when you with right sides together. The exception to this is when you are more experienced and use fabric that requires matching, are more experienced and use fabric that requires matching, then you fold right sides to the outside. then you fold right sides to the outside. Lay pattern pieces on fabric following the layout you circled Lay pattern pieces on fabric following the layout you circled on guide sheet. Place all pieces before pinning them. on guide sheet. Place all pieces before pinning them.

Napped / raised fabrics, those with a definite up and down, Napped / raised fabrics, those with a definite up and down, should be laid out with all the pieces in one direction. should be laid out with all the pieces in one direction. Corduroy ( Woven ) / Velour ( Knit ) has an obvious nap you Corduroy ( Woven ) / Velour ( Knit ) has an obvious nap you can see and feel.can see and feel.

5D. Pattern ( Marker ) Layout5D. Pattern ( Marker ) Layout


Jacquard, double knits, gabardine, and some printing Jacquard, double knits, gabardine, and some printing fabrics should have pattern pieces laid in one direction fabrics should have pattern pieces laid in one direction also, even though you cannot see a definite nap. Wool also also, even though you cannot see a definite nap. Wool also should have the pattern laid out as for napped fabric. should have the pattern laid out as for napped fabric.

Pattern pieces to be cut on the fold should be placed with Pattern pieces to be cut on the fold should be placed with the line of pattern, even with the fabric fold, and pinned. the line of pattern, even with the fabric fold, and pinned. On pieces not placed on the fold, notice the marking that On pieces not placed on the fold, notice the marking that indicates straight of grain. Use a ruler or yardstick to indicates straight of grain. Use a ruler or yardstick to measure, and be sure both ends of marking are the same measure, and be sure both ends of marking are the same distance from selvage, that what we call maintain the distance from selvage, that what we call maintain the grain-line ( Warp & Weft ).grain-line ( Warp & Weft ).


Pattern ( Marker ) pieces should remain smooth as you pin. Pattern ( Marker ) pieces should remain smooth as you pin. Place pins at right angles to the cutting edge where they are not Place pins at right angles to the cutting edge where they are not on the cutting line; pick up only a small amount of fabric. on the cutting line; pick up only a small amount of fabric.

Remarks :Remarks :

Recent years, auto-marker machine is so popular in apparel Recent years, auto-marker machine is so popular in apparel industry. Above is the making marker manually and this is industry. Above is the making marker manually and this is traditional way for making marker and cutting fabric practice in traditional way for making marker and cutting fabric practice in the past.the past.

For sweater, there is no paper pattern / marker, all the panels For sweater, there is no paper pattern / marker, all the panels are knitting calculating by the technical graphic paper from are knitting calculating by the technical graphic paper from either hand machine or auto-machine either hand machine or auto-machine


Cutting lineCutting line A solid, dark outer line to follow in cutting out a A solid, dark outer line to follow in cutting out a pattern piece. pattern piece.

Stitching lineStitching line A broken line, usually located 5/8 inch away from the A broken line, usually located 5/8 inch away from the cutting line indicating where the seam should be cutting line indicating where the seam should be made. The seam allowance is the distance between the made. The seam allowance is the distance between the cutting line and the stitching line. cutting line and the stitching line.

Grain arrowGrain arrow A straight line carrying an arrow at each end you use A straight line carrying an arrow at each end you use to position pattern on the fabric. You place this line to position pattern on the fabric. You place this line parallel to the selvage or lengthwise grain.parallel to the selvage or lengthwise grain.

Place on fold Place on fold lineline

A grain line that indicates the edge of the pattern you A grain line that indicates the edge of the pattern you should place on a fold of the fabric.should place on a fold of the fabric.

5E. Learning Pattern ( Marker ) Symbols5E. Learning Pattern ( Marker ) Symbols


NotchesNotches Single, double, or triple diamond shapes, often Single, double, or triple diamond shapes, often identified with numbers or letters that match as you identified with numbers or letters that match as you sew pieces together.sew pieces together.

Circles and Circles and squaressquares

marks that you match with their identical shapes, marks that you match with their identical shapes, or a line of change ( such as a seam, sleeve cap, or a line of change ( such as a seam, sleeve cap, or beginning or ending of gathers ) in the or beginning or ending of gathers ) in the adjoining piece.adjoining piece.

Lengthen and Lengthen and shorten linesshorten lines

single or double lines that indicate the place single or double lines that indicate the place where you can add or subtract length without where you can add or subtract length without affecting the design of the garment.affecting the design of the garment.

Fold lineFold line indicates the line on which you turn the fabric indicates the line on which you turn the fabric for hem or facing. for hem or facing.


Button and Button and buttonhole buttonhole placementsplacements

are often together and sometimes separate. They are often together and sometimes separate. They indicate placement of button, size, and buttonholes.indicate placement of button, size, and buttonholes.

Dart placementDart placement transfers shape markings onto fabric where you transfers shape markings onto fabric where you make make a fold on the solid line and stitch on the broken a fold on the solid line and stitch on the broken lines, lines, toward point. toward point.

Pocket Pocket placementplacement

the area where you attach the finished pocket. the area where you attach the finished pocket.

HemlineHemline indicated by a solid line that you turn up for the indicated by a solid line that you turn up for the hem. hem.


A fiber is the beginning of all fabrics. It is a fine, hair-like A fiber is the beginning of all fabrics. It is a fine, hair-like strand twisted with other fibers to form a yarn. The yarns are strand twisted with other fibers to form a yarn. The yarns are then woven into fabric. Natural fibers are those found in then woven into fabric. Natural fibers are those found in nature. nature. The four main ones are cotton, flax ( linen ), wool, and silk. The four main ones are cotton, flax ( linen ), wool, and silk. Each has its own characteristics. No one fiber is perfect. Some Each has its own characteristics. No one fiber is perfect. Some characteristics are good; others are not.characteristics are good; others are not.

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6. Fabric6. Fabric6A. Texture, Fibers & Fibers6A. Texture, Fibers & Fibers


Man-made or synthetic fibers are products of science and Man-made or synthetic fibers are products of science and technology. They number several hundred, and new fibers technology. They number several hundred, and new fibers are constantly being produced. It is impossible to remember are constantly being produced. It is impossible to remember the performance characteristics of each synthetic fiber. Law, the performance characteristics of each synthetic fiber. Law, into generic classes or families, has grouped the synthetic into generic classes or families, has grouped the synthetic fibers. Each of these families has its own pattern of behavior fibers. Each of these families has its own pattern of behavior in wear and care. New families are added as they are developed. in wear and care. New families are added as they are developed.

Blends are a group of fabrics that strive to combine the best Blends are a group of fabrics that strive to combine the best characteristics of natural and man-made fibers. Many fabrics characteristics of natural and man-made fibers. Many fabrics used in sewing are a blend of polyester and cotton. No single used in sewing are a blend of polyester and cotton. No single fiber or blend can meet all needs.fiber or blend can meet all needs.


Sweater is made up by knitting from “ Yarn “, and the Sweater is made up by knitting from “ Yarn “, and the yarn actually is the same blended twisting a group from yarn actually is the same blended twisting a group from fibers.fibers.

There will not hundreds, thousands of yarns for sweater There will not hundreds, thousands of yarns for sweater product nowadays to have different effects pre-twist, product nowadays to have different effects pre-twist, heather, marl, slub etc. …heather, marl, slub etc. …

No one of the yarn is perfect. Some characteristics are No one of the yarn is perfect. Some characteristics are good; others are not.good; others are not.

PS :PS :Sweater factory will just press what measurement they Sweater factory will just press what measurement they want by using the wooden board that cause another big want by using the wooden board that cause another big problem – problem – ShrinkageShrinkage..


( I ) Shrinkage( I ) Shrinkage

This is another topic which most of the end consumer concern, This is another topic which most of the end consumer concern, that is that is ShrinkageShrinkage..

To understand what actually causes fiber / fabric to shrink, we To understand what actually causes fiber / fabric to shrink, we must first examine a fiber, a wool fiber for example, under a must first examine a fiber, a wool fiber for example, under a high power microscope. The examination under the high power microscope. The examination under the microscope reveals that the fiber has scales ( similar to fish microscope reveals that the fiber has scales ( similar to fish scales ) on its surface, which lift in the presence of moisture. If scales ) on its surface, which lift in the presence of moisture. If the fabric or garment is subjected to mechanical action when the fabric or garment is subjected to mechanical action when the scales are in the raised state, the scales on the fibers the scales are in the raised state, the scales on the fibers interact with each other resulting in a " ratchet action ". This interact with each other resulting in a " ratchet action ". This ratchet action occurs in one direction only. Therefore, the ratchet action occurs in one direction only. Therefore, the shrinkage that occurs is permanent.shrinkage that occurs is permanent.


In cotton knits fabric, shrinkage is the consolidation of the In cotton knits fabric, shrinkage is the consolidation of the knit structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. knit structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Commercial Wash and Dry equipment can accelerate Commercial Wash and Dry equipment can accelerate shrinkage in less time ( rate of shrinkage ) than home laundry shrinkage in less time ( rate of shrinkage ) than home laundry equipment.equipment.

Ultimately all processes will promote the same degree of Ultimately all processes will promote the same degree of shrinkage. It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the shrinkage. It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the after wash dimensions correspond with your requirements. after wash dimensions correspond with your requirements. Industry standard for variance from specified shrinkage is + Industry standard for variance from specified shrinkage is + or - 5%. As we said before - test, test, test. The garment wash or - 5%. As we said before - test, test, test. The garment wash process is sometimes blamed for results outside the washer's process is sometimes blamed for results outside the washer's control.control.


The most frequently encountered are torque or skew, identified The most frequently encountered are torque or skew, identified by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing process. It is a condition that is considered “ normal and process. It is a condition that is considered “ normal and accepted “ in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate accepted “ in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate torque and, therefore, fabric manufacturer that we know of torque and, therefore, fabric manufacturer that we know of warrants against it in totality.warrants against it in totality.

This is what developed of This is what developed of KWIQ ( Kohl’s Wash to Insure KWIQ ( Kohl’s Wash to Insure Quality ) TestQuality ) Test, which will be compulsory to implement starting , which will be compulsory to implement starting from Fall ‘2003 onwards.from Fall ‘2003 onwards.


There is several methods in the apparel industry to improve There is several methods in the apparel industry to improve shrinkage for the fabric / yarn.shrinkage for the fabric / yarn.

For woven fabric :--For woven fabric :--There is some kind of chemical which we call “ Resin “ can There is some kind of chemical which we call “ Resin “ can be shrink-proofing, or compact the yarn before weaving be shrink-proofing, or compact the yarn before weaving fabric, that what we call “ Compact Yarn “.fabric, that what we call “ Compact Yarn “.

For knit fabric ( especially circular knit ):--For knit fabric ( especially circular knit ):--The fabric should be improved by “ Compacting, Steam and The fabric should be improved by “ Compacting, Steam and Heat Setting “.Heat Setting “.

For yarn of sweater :--For yarn of sweater :--The only way is to release the twisting energy, and pre-shrink The only way is to release the twisting energy, and pre-shrink by steam before knitting.by steam before knitting.


- Riken Resin RG-85C - Riken Resin RG-85C Developed as a cellulose-reactive resin with high chlorine Developed as a cellulose-reactive resin with high chlorine fastness. Excellent in anti-creasing and shrink-proofing, fastness. Excellent in anti-creasing and shrink-proofing, produces less formalin residue on substrate and less produces less formalin residue on substrate and less deterioration in whiteness, it is widely applicable not only in deterioration in whiteness, it is widely applicable not only in areas that require high chlorine fastness.areas that require high chlorine fastness. - Riken Resin RG-17 - Riken Resin RG-17 Developed as a cellulose-reactive resin with high chlorine Developed as a cellulose-reactive resin with high chlorine fastness. Excellent in anti-creasing and shrink-proofing, fastness. Excellent in anti-creasing and shrink-proofing, produces less formalin residue on substrate and less produces less formalin residue on substrate and less deterioration in whiteness, it is widely applicable not only in deterioration in whiteness, it is widely applicable not only in areas that require high chlorine fastness. areas that require high chlorine fastness.


Also, the comparison after weaving to be fabric.Also, the comparison after weaving to be fabric.

Side view of comparison of compact yarn and conventional yarnSide view of comparison of compact yarn and conventional yarn


Compact yarn looks clean Compact yarn looks clean and neatand neat

Conventional yarn look Conventional yarn look frayingfraying

Even it does not look Even it does not look fussy when the spinning fussy when the spinning yarn have been yarn have been transferred to the cone.transferred to the cone.

As maximum number of fibers become parallel and uniform As maximum number of fibers become parallel and uniform after passing through the condensing zone the hairiness value after passing through the condensing zone the hairiness value is reduced about 20-25% than that of normal spinning.is reduced about 20-25% than that of normal spinning.


The difference outcome of conventional yarn and compact yarnThe difference outcome of conventional yarn and compact yarn


The compacting yarn progress from spinningThe compacting yarn progress from spinning


Increase in yarn strength & Increase in yarn strength & elongationelongation

Due to better-controlled and uniform fibers in yarn the Due to better-controlled and uniform fibers in yarn the strength and elongation of yarn is increased by 20% than strength and elongation of yarn is increased by 20% than that of conventional ring spun yarn, even on low twist that of conventional ring spun yarn, even on low twist e.g. If conventional NE 40/1 is spun on 4.40 T.M, the e.g. If conventional NE 40/1 is spun on 4.40 T.M, the compact NE 40/1 have better strength on 3.90 T.M with compact NE 40/1 have better strength on 3.90 T.M with the same cotton from Pakistan.the same cotton from Pakistan.


For Compact Calendaring of Circular Knitted FabricsFor Compact Calendaring of Circular Knitted Fabrics

- Tube compactor is designed to control the effective - Tube compactor is designed to control the effective shrinkage and high dimensional stability of knitted fabrics shrinkage and high dimensional stability of knitted fabrics such as single jersey and double jersey fabrics.such as single jersey and double jersey fabrics.

- It is mechanically possible to adjust the shrinkage ratio up It is mechanically possible to adjust the shrinkage ratio up to 18% depends on type of fabrics. to 18% depends on type of fabrics.


Tube Compacting MachineTube Compacting Machine


For Steam Setting of Circular Knitted FabricsFor Steam Setting of Circular Knitted Fabrics

- DNS steam setting machine is designed for spreading and - DNS steam setting machine is designed for spreading and setting of fabric width.setting of fabric width.- It corrects twisted condition of knitting loops, and widen fabric - It corrects twisted condition of knitting loops, and widen fabric width by pressing fabric surface and softened through steam width by pressing fabric surface and softened through steam spray on the fabric.spray on the fabric.- Crease marks can be minimized by non-woven fabric on the - Crease marks can be minimized by non-woven fabric on the roller surface.roller surface.- At the steam setting section, upper and lower roller will be - At the steam setting section, upper and lower roller will be heated. So, it gives good effect on fabric.heated. So, it gives good effect on fabric.- The Machine comprises of over feeding section, steam section, - The Machine comprises of over feeding section, steam section, folding section and electronic control panel. folding section and electronic control panel.


Steam Setting MachineSteam Setting Machine


- DNH type heat setting machine is designed to process the circular DNH type heat setting machine is designed to process the circular knitted fabric being composed of synthetic and blended yarns.knitted fabric being composed of synthetic and blended yarns.- The Machine comprises of the over feeding section, heating, The Machine comprises of the over feeding section, heating, cooling section, press roller and folding section.cooling section, press roller and folding section.- It is possible to reduce the heat difference between the inside and It is possible to reduce the heat difference between the inside and outside of the heating chamber as there is direct heating system by outside of the heating chamber as there is direct heating system by means of gas or thermo-oil.means of gas or thermo-oil.- The Machine make more easy to control the thick knitted fabric to The Machine make more easy to control the thick knitted fabric to get the required width by using the strong hot wind.get the required width by using the strong hot wind.- The Machine equipped with a digital control system to control The Machine equipped with a digital control system to control accurately the main speed and over feed. As a result, it is possible accurately the main speed and over feed. As a result, it is possible to solve the problems like the loop twist.to solve the problems like the loop twist.- The Machine can be controlled easily by centralized control The Machine can be controlled easily by centralized control systemsystem

For Heat Setting Knitted FabricsFor Heat Setting Knitted Fabrics


Heat Setting MachineHeat Setting Machine


Shrinkage Tester - FabricShrinkage Tester - Fabric

The shrinkage tester principle The shrinkage tester principle was developed to test for was developed to test for dimensional stability and other dimensional stability and other fabric properties that require a fabric properties that require a washing and drying process. It is washing and drying process. It is typically used in companies typically used in companies involved in knitting, weaving, involved in knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, garment dyeing and finishing, garment manufacture and retail.manufacture and retail.

Rapidly predicts dimensional change (shrinkage) of textile Rapidly predicts dimensional change (shrinkage) of textile fabrics when they have been subjected to washing and tumble fabrics when they have been subjected to washing and tumble drying. Can determine spirality, print durability, and drying. Can determine spirality, print durability, and colorfastness changes of fabric.colorfastness changes of fabric.


( II ) Fabric Finishes( II ) Fabric Finishes A fabric finish is a treatment that changes fabric behavior A fabric finish is a treatment that changes fabric behavior and appearance. The finish may be temporary or permanent. and appearance. The finish may be temporary or permanent. Regular or basic finishes ( such as coating, resin, napping, Regular or basic finishes ( such as coating, resin, napping, brushing, shearing, softener or calendaring ) make fabric brushing, shearing, softener or calendaring ) make fabric suitable to sell. Functional or special finishes contribute a suitable to sell. Functional or special finishes contribute a special feature to the fabric. Permanent press, stain special feature to the fabric. Permanent press, stain resistance, and water repellency are functional finishes. resistance, and water repellency are functional finishes.

One of another importance as end consumer concern is the One of another importance as end consumer concern is the Hand-feel, so Softener is the one of the treatment that most Hand-feel, so Softener is the one of the treatment that most popular to be used on fabric finishing.popular to be used on fabric finishing.


-Riken Softener AS-280 Riken Softener AS-280

Highly concentrated amino denatured silicone, to be diluted Highly concentrated amino denatured silicone, to be diluted before use, to give excellent softening effects on fiber. It is a before use, to give excellent softening effects on fiber. It is a silicone-based softener that produces a drier hand with better silicone-based softener that produces a drier hand with better whiteness and less water repellency than conventional amino whiteness and less water repellency than conventional amino denatured silicone. denatured silicone.

- Riken Softener AS-350 - Riken Softener AS-350

Amino denatured silicone to give excellent softening effects Amino denatured silicone to give excellent softening effects on fiber, in particular through exhaustion.on fiber, in particular through exhaustion.


Silk :--Silk :--

Silk is a protein yarn, which is weaker when wet, and dark or Silk is a protein yarn, which is weaker when wet, and dark or bright colors which have a high risk of fadingbright colors which have a high risk of fading.

If we wanted the silk can be Machine Washable, that the silk If we wanted the silk can be Machine Washable, that the silk yarn must be treated ( yarn must be treated ( salt-shrunksalt-shrunk, , resin-treatedresin-treated – for woven, – for woven, and and fiber-dispersedfiber-dispersed – for knit ) – for knit ) before.before.

The one process we called The one process we called Resin TreatedResin Treated, that is a Fiber that , that is a Fiber that has been treated with a Synthetic Film-forming Polymer has been treated with a Synthetic Film-forming Polymer ( resin ) . This may be done to make the fiber firmer, heavier, ( resin ) . This may be done to make the fiber firmer, heavier, more stable, to add Wrinkle Resistance, to reduce Shrinkage more stable, to add Wrinkle Resistance, to reduce Shrinkage or to create Surface Effect such as Embossing or Glazing.or to create Surface Effect such as Embossing or Glazing.


Fabric may be constructed by three basics methods : knitting, Fabric may be constructed by three basics methods : knitting, weaving, and the interlocking of fibers by felting or bonding. weaving, and the interlocking of fibers by felting or bonding. Lace making and netting are two less frequently used methods Lace making and netting are two less frequently used methods of producing cloth. of producing cloth.

( I ) Woven Fabrics( I ) Woven Fabrics There are several weaves of fabric. The plain weave is the most There are several weaves of fabric. The plain weave is the most basic of all weaves, with one weft yarn going over and under basic of all weaves, with one weft yarn going over and under one warp yarn. Many fabrics are produced in the plain weave. one warp yarn. Many fabrics are produced in the plain weave.

6B. Fabric Construction6B. Fabric Construction


( II ) Non-woven Fabrics( II ) Non-woven Fabrics These type fabrics are formed when heat, moisture, and These type fabrics are formed when heat, moisture, and pressure are applied to fibers, forcing them to interlock. pressure are applied to fibers, forcing them to interlock. Sometimes chemicals are used to maintain this process. Many Sometimes chemicals are used to maintain this process. Many interfacings, fleece, and felt are examples of this process. interfacings, fleece, and felt are examples of this process.

( III ) Knitted Fabrics( III ) Knitted Fabrics Knitted fabrics are made from one continuous thread. Knitting Knitted fabrics are made from one continuous thread. Knitting consists of rows of interlocking loops done by hand or consists of rows of interlocking loops done by hand or machine. Knit fabrics are comfortable and wrinkle-resistant, machine. Knit fabrics are comfortable and wrinkle-resistant, but they snag. They give or stretch as you wear them. They but they snag. They give or stretch as you wear them. They must be stretched as you sew them so they keep this " give ". must be stretched as you sew them so they keep this " give ".


Remember the following points about finishes when Remember the following points about finishes when selecting fabrics : selecting fabrics :

1. Finishes may be applied for beauty or service. 1. Finishes may be applied for beauty or service. 2. Finishes may be durable or non-durable. 2. Finishes may be durable or non-durable. 3. Each finishes means added cost. 3. Each finishes means added cost. 4. Proper care prolongs finish life. 4. Proper care prolongs finish life.


( IV ) Permanent Care Labeling( IV ) Permanent Care Labeling

Permanent care labeling went into effect in 1972. A label Permanent care labeling went into effect in 1972. A label giving directions for care must be permanently attached in a giving directions for care must be permanently attached in a designated place to almost all ready-to-wear garments. designated place to almost all ready-to-wear garments. For home sewing fabrics, care instructions are printed on For home sewing fabrics, care instructions are printed on coded labels that correspond to the code number on the bolt coded labels that correspond to the code number on the bolt end. Nine labels have been developed for this use. When a end. Nine labels have been developed for this use. When a salesperson gives you a label, sew it into the garment you salesperson gives you a label, sew it into the garment you make so you and others will always know how to care for it. In make so you and others will always know how to care for it. In most stores, you have to ask for the label. most stores, you have to ask for the label.


Get more idea, visit below siteGet more idea, visit below sitehttp://www.ftc.gov/http://www.americanlawlabel.com/home.htm

PS : Fabric Buying TipsPS : Fabric Buying Tips When it comes to fabric, the beginner usually picks on the When it comes to fabric, the beginner usually picks on the basis of " I like it; I'll buy it ! ". The expert, like you are going basis of " I like it; I'll buy it ! ". The expert, like you are going to be, relies on more knowledge. A wise fabric choice will to be, relies on more knowledge. A wise fabric choice will make your project a success, while a poor choice of fabric can make your project a success, while a poor choice of fabric can cause you headaches from start to finish. Bolt end will provide cause you headaches from start to finish. Bolt end will provide such information as fiber content, fabric width, cost, and care such information as fiber content, fabric width, cost, and care instructions. instructions.


Fabric consumption is one of criteria of costing calculation Fabric consumption is one of criteria of costing calculation when placing order, and the designer consider dropping or when placing order, and the designer consider dropping or changing the style.changing the style. For sweater, there is no fabric consumption, as sweater is For sweater, there is no fabric consumption, as sweater is knitting up by yarn. So, how weight of the yarn to be used is the knitting up by yarn. So, how weight of the yarn to be used is the most concern when calculating the costing.most concern when calculating the costing.

PS : Below are only estimates. You may need to add at least PS : Below are only estimates. You may need to add at least 1/4 yard for nap or unidirectional fabrics, fabrics that require 1/4 yard for nap or unidirectional fabrics, fabrics that require pattern matching ( such as stripe / plaids ), or large or long pattern matching ( such as stripe / plaids ), or large or long pattern pieces.pattern pieces.

6C. Consumption6C. Consumption


Fabric Conversion ChartFabric Conversion Chart Fabric WidthFabric Width 35-36"35-36" 39"39" 41"41" 44-45"44-45" 50"50" 52-52-

54"54"58-58-60"60"

Number of Yards Number of Yards NeededNeeded

1-3/41-3/4 1-1/21-1/2 1-1/21-1/2 1-3/81-3/8 1-1/41-1/4 1-1/81-1/8 11

22 1-3/41-3/4 1-3/41-3/4 1-5/81-5/8 1-1/21-1/2 1-3/81-3/8 1-1/41-1/4

2-1/42-1/4 22 22 1-3/41-3/4 1-5/81-5/8 1-1/21-1/2 1-3/81-3/8

2-1/22-1/2 2-1/42-1/4 2-1/42-1/4 2-1/82-1/8 1-3/41-3/4 1-3/41-3/4 1-5/81-5/8

2-7/82-7/8 2-1/22-1/2 2-1/22-1/2 2-1/42-1/4 22 1-7/81-7/8 1-3/41-3/4

3-1/83-1/8 2-3/42-3/4 2-3/42-3/4 2-1/22-1/2 2-1/42-1/4 22 1-7/81-7/8

3-3/83-3/8 33 2-7/82-7/8 2-3/42-3/4 2-3/82-3/8 2-1/42-1/4 22

3-3/43-3/4 3-1/43-1/4 3-1/83-1/8 2-7/82-7/8 2-5/82-5/8 2-3/82-3/8 2-1/42-1/4

4-1/44-1/4 3-1/23-1/2 3-3/83-3/8 3-1/83-1/8 2-3/42-3/4 2-5/82-5/8 2-3/82-3/8

4-1/24-1/2 3-3/43-3/4 3-5/83-5/8 3-3/83-3/8 33 2-3/42-3/4 2-5/82-5/8

4-3/44-3/4 44 3-7/83-7/8 3-5/83-5/8 3-1/43-1/4 2-7/82-7/8 2-3/42-3/4

55 4-1/44-1/4 4-1/84-1/8 3-7/83-7/8 3-3/83-3/8 3-1/83-1/8 2-7/82-7/8


Fractions of YardsFractions of Yards Fraction of a Fraction of a YardYard

InchesInches

1/161/16 2-1/4"2-1/4"

1/81/8 4-1/2"4-1/2"

1/41/4 9"9"

1/31/3 12"12"

3/83/8 13-1/2"13-1/2"

1/21/2 18"18"

5/85/8 22-1/2"22-1/2"

2/32/3 24"24"

3/43/4 27"27"

7/87/8 31-1/2"31-1/2"

11 36"36"


( I ) Straighten Fabric( I ) Straighten Fabric

Before you cut a garment, you should straighten the ends of Before you cut a garment, you should straighten the ends of the fabric if they are not even. You can do this one of two the fabric if they are not even. You can do this one of two ways: ways:

1. Pull a crosswise thread near the end and cut along the 1. Pull a crosswise thread near the end and cut along the pulled line. pulled line. 2. Clip through selvage and tear across the width. You will 2. Clip through selvage and tear across the width. You will have to press out the ruffles caused by tearing. have to press out the ruffles caused by tearing.


( II ) Off-Grain Fabric( II ) Off-Grain Fabric After you straighten the fabric as illustrated, some will not After you straighten the fabric as illustrated, some will not line up square at the ends of the fabric. Pull until you can line line up square at the ends of the fabric. Pull until you can line the folded fabric even with the side and end of a table. You the folded fabric even with the side and end of a table. You are trying to pull the crooked threads straight.are trying to pull the crooked threads straight.

Some fabrics have a finish that does not allow the fabric to Some fabrics have a finish that does not allow the fabric to be straightened in this manner, and these fabrics will never be straightened in this manner, and these fabrics will never line up squarely at the ends and selvages. This will result in a line up squarely at the ends and selvages. This will result in a slightly off-grain garment.slightly off-grain garment.

That you should return the fabric to the mill for re-finishing That you should return the fabric to the mill for re-finishing to be proper grain.to be proper grain.


Use your good cutting shears. Do not use pinking shears, Use your good cutting shears. Do not use pinking shears, because it is difficult to be accurate. Use long, even strokes as because it is difficult to be accurate. Use long, even strokes as you cut. Do not lift the fabric from the table while you cut; keep you cut. Do not lift the fabric from the table while you cut; keep it flat on the table. it flat on the table. Notches on the edges of a pattern show you how the pieces fit Notches on the edges of a pattern show you how the pieces fit together. Cut a little notch away from the pattern instead of together. Cut a little notch away from the pattern instead of toward it. When two notches are together, cut as a double one. toward it. When two notches are together, cut as a double one. Leave the pattern pinned to the fabric until you are ready to use Leave the pattern pinned to the fabric until you are ready to use the pieces. the pieces. Transfer pattern symbols by using one of the marking tools Transfer pattern symbols by using one of the marking tools suggested in this manual. suggested in this manual.

7. Cutting7. Cutting


The first thing you should do to the fabric you are going to The first thing you should do to the fabric you are going to sew is put it in the washer. Take your new fabric and launder sew is put it in the washer. Take your new fabric and launder it according to the care instructions and the way you plan to it according to the care instructions and the way you plan to treat your finished garment. This takes care of any shrinkage treat your finished garment. This takes care of any shrinkage that might occur. Of great importance to you, the home sewer, that might occur. Of great importance to you, the home sewer, is the fact that many fabrics will stitch better and with fewer is the fact that many fabrics will stitch better and with fewer skipped stitches if they are laundered before sewing. skipped stitches if they are laundered before sewing. Some fabrics are not washable, and you should follow label Some fabrics are not washable, and you should follow label instructions for their care. Wool may be preshrunk by various instructions for their care. Wool may be preshrunk by various methods, but not in the washer. Some other dry-cleanable methods, but not in the washer. Some other dry-cleanable fabrics need no preshrinking before using them. fabrics need no preshrinking before using them.

7A. Preshrink Fabric7A. Preshrink Fabric


The direction of the stitching is important. To prevent stretching, The direction of the stitching is important. To prevent stretching, stitch in the direction shown by the arrows in the drawing. stitch in the direction shown by the arrows in the drawing. The stitching should not show after you do further construction. The stitching should not show after you do further construction. You may omit stay stitching on edges that are straight or nearly You may omit stay stitching on edges that are straight or nearly straight.straight.

PS : For all kinds of stretchable / knit fabric, you must spread it PS : For all kinds of stretchable / knit fabric, you must spread it overnight ( almost 8 hours at least ) prior to cutting for letting it overnight ( almost 8 hours at least ) prior to cutting for letting it relaxing / recovering.relaxing / recovering.

7B. Fabric Direction – 7B. Fabric Direction – Napped / PrintingNapped / Printing


Interfacing is a layer of fabric or construction material you Interfacing is a layer of fabric or construction material you place between the garment fabric and facing for body and place between the garment fabric and facing for body and shaping. Interfacing helps create better-looking, longer-lasting shaping. Interfacing helps create better-looking, longer-lasting garments.garments.

Most popular one in the market is following :--Most popular one in the market is following :--

Freudenberg / VileneFreudenberg / Vilene

8. Interfacing8. Interfacing


It shapes, stabilizes, supports, gives body, reinforces, and It shapes, stabilizes, supports, gives body, reinforces, and prevents stretching in detail areas. Interfacing also gives prevents stretching in detail areas. Interfacing also gives definition to a detail area, cushions seams, and softens edges. definition to a detail area, cushions seams, and softens edges. Without interfacing, clothes become limp after cleaning and Without interfacing, clothes become limp after cleaning and wearing. wearing.

The pattern will give you guidelines and the pattern piece to The pattern will give you guidelines and the pattern piece to use. Generally, detail areas -- collars, cuffs, pockets, necklines, use. Generally, detail areas -- collars, cuffs, pockets, necklines, bands, and opening edges, such as button/buttonhole areas – bands, and opening edges, such as button/buttonhole areas – need extra shaping and support. need extra shaping and support.


To help you select interfacing, drape it over your hand with To help you select interfacing, drape it over your hand with the outer fabric to see if it is too crisp or too soft. Interfacing the outer fabric to see if it is too crisp or too soft. Interfacing must be similar to the weight of your outer fabric, not heavier. must be similar to the weight of your outer fabric, not heavier. Fusible interfacing should be slightly lighter than outer fabric. Fusible interfacing should be slightly lighter than outer fabric. Interfacing must do the following : Interfacing must do the following :

1. have care instructions similar to your outer fabric. 1. have care instructions similar to your outer fabric. 2. be compatible with the sewing guide instructions. 2. be compatible with the sewing guide instructions. 3. suit the need of the area to be interfaced, stiffened, shaped, 3. suit the need of the area to be interfaced, stiffened, shaped, or supported. or supported.

8A. Choosing Interfacing8A. Choosing Interfacing


Two major types of interfacing are based on the way they are Two major types of interfacing are based on the way they are applied. These are fusible and sew-ins. Woven interfacing has applied. These are fusible and sew-ins. Woven interfacing has grain. Follow the pattern layout for cutting. grain. Follow the pattern layout for cutting. Non-woven interfacing may or may not have grain. Those Non-woven interfacing may or may not have grain. Those without grain ( check manufacturer's instructions ) may be laid without grain ( check manufacturer's instructions ) may be laid out in any direction. out in any direction.

Fusible interfacings are available in woven, non-woven, knit, Fusible interfacings are available in woven, non-woven, knit, and weft or warp insertion; sew-ins is available in woven or and weft or warp insertion; sew-ins is available in woven or non-woven. non-woven.

8B. Types of Interfacing8B. Types of Interfacing


WHISPER WEFTContents: 60% polyester, 40% rayon

TOUCH O' GOLD white, blackContents: 100% rayon

SOSHEER ivoryContents: 100% polyester

SATIN WEAVE Contents: 78% viscose, 22%

polyester

FORM-FLEX ALL PURPOSE Contents: 100% cotton

ARMO WEFT white and blackContents: 60% polyester, 40% rayon

ARMO RITE Contents: 100% polyester

ARMO PRESS SOFT Contents: 50% polyester, 50% cotton


Knits ( fusible only ) are made of nylon tricot. They are Knits ( fusible only ) are made of nylon tricot. They are stable in the lengthwise direction and have considerable stable in the lengthwise direction and have considerable crosswise stretch. crosswise stretch.

Weft or warp insertions ( fusible only ) are made by Weft or warp insertions ( fusible only ) are made by combination knitting and woven construction. They provide combination knitting and woven construction. They provide stability, stretch, and drape all in one. stability, stretch, and drape all in one. Specialty interfacing is another major category of Specialty interfacing is another major category of interfacings available as tapes, fleeces, strips, and bands. interfacings available as tapes, fleeces, strips, and bands.


Fusible -- To trim ½ inch ( 1.3 cm ) from fusible interfacing Fusible -- To trim ½ inch ( 1.3 cm ) from fusible interfacing seam allowance. Place adhesive side of interfacing on wrong seam allowance. Place adhesive side of interfacing on wrong side of the garment section. Fuse with a steam iron and a press side of the garment section. Fuse with a steam iron and a press cloth, following manufacturer's direction. cloth, following manufacturer's direction. Sew-in or standard -- Trim narrow, outside corners of Sew-in or standard -- Trim narrow, outside corners of interfacing diagonally near the seam line to prevent bulky, interfacing diagonally near the seam line to prevent bulky, knobby corners. Pin standard interfacing to wrong side of knobby corners. Pin standard interfacing to wrong side of garment section, and stitch ½ inch ( 1.3 cm ) from edges. Trim garment section, and stitch ½ inch ( 1.3 cm ) from edges. Trim it close to stitching. it close to stitching.

8C. Fusing Methods - Interfacing8C. Fusing Methods - Interfacing


Check manufacturer's recommendations / specification sheet Check manufacturer's recommendations / specification sheet for placement of a fusible interfacing. It may be applied to for placement of a fusible interfacing. It may be applied to facing areas rather than garment. Sew-ins is usually applied facing areas rather than garment. Sew-ins is usually applied to underneath garment side rather than to facing. to underneath garment side rather than to facing.

Fusible should be placed on the whole front panels for the Fusible should be placed on the whole front panels for the suit / jacket style usually for supporting.suit / jacket style usually for supporting.

8D. Placement - Interfacing8D. Placement - Interfacing


Jacket :--

1. Facing2. Pocket Opening3. Back Shoulder4. Sleeve Vent


Vest :--Vest :--

1.1. FacingFacing2.2. Armhole Front and BackArmhole Front and Back3.3. Armhole FacingArmhole Facing4.4. Back NeckBack Neck5.5. Back Neck FacingBack Neck Facing


Nearly all interfacings, even fusible, should be preshrunk Nearly all interfacings, even fusible, should be preshrunk before using. Wet thoroughly in lukewarm ( not hot ) water. before using. Wet thoroughly in lukewarm ( not hot ) water. Do not wring or twist, but lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist, but lay flat to dry. PS : Be Caution !!! Test fusible on a scrap of fabric to see the PS : Be Caution !!! Test fusible on a scrap of fabric to see the effect before you apply. Some interfacings are not suited to effect before you apply. Some interfacings are not suited to certain fabrics -- the only way to be sure is to test. certain fabrics -- the only way to be sure is to test.

8E. Preparing for Use - Interfacing8E. Preparing for Use - Interfacing


When choosing a sewing machine needle, you should consider When choosing a sewing machine needle, you should consider the type and weight of fabric in your project, the type of thread the type and weight of fabric in your project, the type of thread you're using, and the kind of sewing you will be doing.you're using, and the kind of sewing you will be doing.

Some needles have special eyes to accommodate larger Some needles have special eyes to accommodate larger threads, others are sturdy enough to stitch heavy fabrics such threads, others are sturdy enough to stitch heavy fabrics such as denim, and others are best suited to delicate heirloom as denim, and others are best suited to delicate heirloom sewing on fine fabrics such as batiste.sewing on fine fabrics such as batiste.

9. Needle Accommodation9. Needle Accommodation


In sewing machine needles, higher numbers identify larger In sewing machine needles, higher numbers identify larger needles, so a size 110 denim needle is larger than a size 90 needles, so a size 110 denim needle is larger than a size 90 denim needle. Generally the larger the needle, the heavier the denim needle. Generally the larger the needle, the heavier the fabric for which it's appropriate. Use smaller sizes with more fabric for which it's appropriate. Use smaller sizes with more delicate fabrics and larger sizes with heavier fabrics.delicate fabrics and larger sizes with heavier fabrics.

For double needles, the first number indicates the distance For double needles, the first number indicates the distance between the two needles, followed by the size of each needle. between the two needles, followed by the size of each needle. For example, a 2.0 mm/75 double needle has two size-75 For example, a 2.0 mm/75 double needle has two size-75 needles that are 2.0 mm apart.needles that are 2.0 mm apart.


The following guide provides information on needle types, The following guide provides information on needle types, sizes, and appropriate uses.sizes, and appropriate uses.

For more information check out the following:For more information check out the following:Sew Easy Embellishments by Nancy Zieman,Sew Easy Embellishments by Nancy Zieman,Essential Sewing Guide by Nancy ZiemanEssential Sewing Guide by Nancy ZiemanPublished by © 1998, Nancy's Notions, Ltd.Published by © 1998, Nancy's Notions, Ltd.


NeedleNeedle SizeSize DescriptionDescription UsesUses

TopstitchingTopstitching 80, 90, 10080, 90, 100 Extra-large eye, large Extra-large eye, large groove accommodates groove accommodates topstitching threadtopstitching thread

Sewing heavier thread;Sewing heavier thread;

DoubleDouble 1.6 mm/801.6 mm/80 Two Universal Needles on Two Universal Needles on a crossbar, slightly a crossbar, slightly rounded points, and large rounded points, and large scarvesscarves

embroidery with delicate embroidery with delicate and metallic threadsand metallic threads

StretchStretch 2.0 mm/802.0 mm/80 Medium ballpoint; long flat Medium ballpoint; long flat shank lets needle work shank lets needle work close to bobbin; decreases close to bobbin; decreases skipped stitchesskipped stitches

1.6 mm/80 and 2.0 mm/80 1.6 mm/80 and 2.0 mm/80 for pintucks, delicate for pintucks, delicate heirloom sewingheirloom sewing

Double StretchDouble Stretch 3.0 mm/903.0 mm/90 Two Stretch Needles on a Two Stretch Needles on a crossbar; ballpoint crossbar; ballpoint prevents skipped stitches prevents skipped stitches on knitson knits

3.0 mm/90 for hems, 3.0 mm/90 for hems, pintuckspintucks

Self-ThreadingSelf-Threading 4.0 mm/904.0 mm/90 Slit in side of eye for Slit in side of eye for threading ease; weaker threading ease; weaker than conventional needlesthan conventional needles

4.0 mm/90 for decorative 4.0 mm/90 for decorative hems, surface hems, surface embellishmentsembellishments

Denim / SharpDenim / Sharp 6.0 mm/1006.0 mm/100 Very sharp point to ease Very sharp point to ease penetration of dense penetration of dense fabricsfabrics

6.0 mm/100 for surface 6.0 mm/100 for surface embellishmentsembellishments

Spring Denim / SharpSpring Denim / Sharp 8.0 mm/1008.0 mm/100 Sharp point for penetrating Sharp point for penetrating dense fabric, attached dense fabric, attached spring allows free-form spring allows free-form sewingsewing

8.0 mm/100 for adding 8.0 mm/100 for adding texture to fabrictexture to fabric



Machine EmbroideryMachine Embroidery 75, 9075, 90 Slightly rounded point, Slightly rounded point, long eye, and deep front long eye, and deep front groove; protects delicate groove; protects delicate embroidery threads; embroidery threads; avoids fraying and avoids fraying and breakingbreaking

Size 75 for sewing Size 75 for sewing lightweight knits such as lightweight knits such as tricot, interlock, silk jersey, tricot, interlock, silk jersey, lycra, and Ultrasuede®; lycra, and Ultrasuede®; size 90 for sewing lycra, size 90 for sewing lycra, Ultrasuede, and synthetic Ultrasuede, and synthetic furs with knit backingsfurs with knit backings

Spring Machine Spring Machine EmbroideryEmbroidery

2.5 mm/752.5 mm/75 Same features as Machine Same features as Machine Embroidery Needle with an Embroidery Needle with an attached springattached spring

Pintucking; embroidery on Pintucking; embroidery on knits, silk jersey, lycra, knits, silk jersey, lycra, Ultrasuede®Ultrasuede®

Double Machine Double Machine EmbroideryEmbroidery

4.0 mm/754.0 mm/75 Two Machine Embroidery Two Machine Embroidery Needles on a crossbar; Needles on a crossbar; protects embroidery protects embroidery threads from fraying and threads from fraying and breakingbreaking

Simplifies needle threadingSimplifies needle threading

Machine QuiltingMachine Quilting 9090 Specially tapered point; Specially tapered point; better stitch quality and better stitch quality and controlcontrol

Sewing denim, heavy Sewing denim, heavy corduroy, dense wool, corduroy, dense wool, canvas, heavy poplin or canvas, heavy poplin or twilltwill

Spring Machine QuiltingSpring Machine Quilting 90, 100, 11090, 100, 110 Same features as Machine Same features as Machine Quilting Needle with an Quilting Needle with an attached springattached spring

Free-motion embroideryFree-motion embroidery

MetafileMetafile 100100 Fine shaft, sharp point, Fine shaft, sharp point, and large elongated eye; and large elongated eye; specialized scarf specialized scarf eliminates skipped stitcheseliminates skipped stitches

Sewing Knits and woven; Sewing Knits and woven; for use with decorative for use with decorative threadsthreads



Double MetafileDouble Metafile 75, 9075, 90 Two Metafile Needles on Two Metafile Needles on a crossbara crossbar

Free-motion embroidery Free-motion embroidery using decorative threadsusing decorative threads

MetallicMetallic 75, 9075, 90 Large eye for easy Large eye for easy threading and to threading and to accommodate heavier accommodate heavier threads; large groove threads; large groove prevents shredding of prevents shredding of threadsthreads

Surface embellishments Surface embellishments made with decorative made with decorative threadsthreads

UniversalUniversal 2.0 mm/752.0 mm/75 Slightly rounded point, Slightly rounded point, long needle scarf; all-long needle scarf; all-purpose needle for purpose needle for sewing woven, knitssewing woven, knits

Machine quilting; sewing Machine quilting; sewing through layers of crossed through layers of crossed seams in quilting and seams in quilting and patchworkpatchwork

WingWing 3.0 mm/753.0 mm/75 Wide, wing-shaped Wide, wing-shaped blades on each side blades on each side create holes in fabric that create holes in fabric that look like entredeux trimlook like entredeux trim

Free-form quiltingFree-form quilting

LeatherLeather 75, 9075, 90 Wedge shape, knife-edge Wedge shape, knife-edge cutting point; not suited cutting point; not suited for synthetic suede or for synthetic suede or leather because slit made leather because slit made by needle eventually tearsby needle eventually tears

Sewing with metallic and Sewing with metallic and other decorative threadsother decorative threads


10. General Technique10. General Technique

( I ) Facings( I ) Facings

Facings need not be frustrating. Here are some tricks that Facings need not be frustrating. Here are some tricks that make them simple to do and make them look nice. make them simple to do and make them look nice. Grade to reduce thickness in the garment. Trim facing Grade to reduce thickness in the garment. Trim facing allowance to 1/8 inch and garment seam allowance to ¼ inch. allowance to 1/8 inch and garment seam allowance to ¼ inch. Trim corners closer so they will turn well. Trim corners closer so they will turn well.


( II ) Seams( II ) Seams

Your fabric type determines whether seam allowances will Your fabric type determines whether seam allowances will need a finish and which method will be required; but do not need a finish and which method will be required; but do not worry - it can be easy and fast to do. worry - it can be easy and fast to do. For most knits and a few firmly woven fabrics that do not For most knits and a few firmly woven fabrics that do not ravel, a seam finish is usually not needed. Most other woven ravel, a seam finish is usually not needed. Most other woven fabrics will need a seam finish to keep edges from fraying. fabrics will need a seam finish to keep edges from fraying.


These are some of the seams and seam finishes you may use. These are some of the seams and seam finishes you may use. There are other possibilities. There are other possibilities.

PinkedPinked You can pink seam edges when the fabric frays very little. You can pink seam edges when the fabric frays very little. Be sure you cut only along the edge, leaving most of the Be sure you cut only along the edge, leaving most of the seam. Be careful and do not snip the wrong place !!! Do this seam. Be careful and do not snip the wrong place !!! Do this only after you are sure the garment fits. only after you are sure the garment fits.

Pinked and Pinked and StitchedStitched

Pink and stitch close to each seam edge on fabrics that need Pink and stitch close to each seam edge on fabrics that need a little extra protection. You may need to loosen tension as a little extra protection. You may need to loosen tension as you sew on this single thickness of fabric.you sew on this single thickness of fabric.

Turned and Turned and stitchedstitched

For lightweight fabric, turn under 1/8 inch, and stitch close For lightweight fabric, turn under 1/8 inch, and stitch close to edge. to edge.

ZigzagZigzag For any ravel fabrics, particularly heavyweight versions, For any ravel fabrics, particularly heavyweight versions, zigzag the edge. Practice on a scrap to find a good zigzag zigzag the edge. Practice on a scrap to find a good zigzag setting that will not pucker edges.setting that will not pucker edges.


Straight Straight stitchedstitched

For knits and other fabrics that may curl, such as swimwear For knits and other fabrics that may curl, such as swimwear fabrics, jerseys, or stretch terry, stitch about ¼ inch from fabrics, jerseys, or stretch terry, stitch about ¼ inch from edge. edge.

Double Double stitchedstitched

Make a second row of stitching about 1/8 inch from seam Make a second row of stitching about 1/8 inch from seam line. Trim close to stitching. This is a good, easy finish for line. Trim close to stitching. This is a good, easy finish for sheer fabric. On some fabrics, the second stitch line can be a sheer fabric. On some fabrics, the second stitch line can be a zigzag.zigzag.

SelvageSelvage Selvages may be left on pieces that can be cut on the straight Selvages may be left on pieces that can be cut on the straight line. Snip the selvage in a few places so it will not pucker. line. Snip the selvage in a few places so it will not pucker. This is a nice durable finish on any fabric.This is a nice durable finish on any fabric.

WeltWelt Press seam to one side. Trim under seam to ¼ inch. Topstitch Press seam to one side. Trim under seam to ¼ inch. Topstitch ¼ inch from the seam-line, catching in the untrimmed seam ¼ inch from the seam-line, catching in the untrimmed seam allowance. This is good for heavy fabrics where a flat finish allowance. This is good for heavy fabrics where a flat finish is desirable. is desirable.


French seamFrench seam Place wrong sides of fabric together and stitch ¼ inch from Place wrong sides of fabric together and stitch ¼ inch from edge. Trim 1/8 inch. Press seam flat and fold right sides edge. Trim 1/8 inch. Press seam flat and fold right sides together and crease.together and crease.

Stitch 3/16 Stitch 3/16 inch from inch from edgeedge

This encases raw edges and is good for undergarments and This encases raw edges and is good for undergarments and sheer fabrics. sheer fabrics.

Flat fellFlat fell Place seam with wrong sides together and stitch a 5/8-inch Place seam with wrong sides together and stitch a 5/8-inch seam. Press both seam edges in one direction. Trim under seam. Press both seam edges in one direction. Trim under seam close to stitching. Turn under edge of top seam seam close to stitching. Turn under edge of top seam allowance. Topstitch close to edge. This durable, tailored allowance. Topstitch close to edge. This durable, tailored finish is great for shirts, some blouses, some robes, and other finish is great for shirts, some blouses, some robes, and other garments. garments.


Clip or notch curves so they will be smooth, or simply cut Clip or notch curves so they will be smooth, or simply cut closer to remove excess fabric from curves. Clip outward closer to remove excess fabric from curves. Clip outward curves. Notch inward curves to reduce bulk. curves. Notch inward curves to reduce bulk.

Under stitch to keep facing from rolling out and showing. Under stitch to keep facing from rolling out and showing. Do this after grading, trimming, and clipping to reduce bulk. Do this after grading, trimming, and clipping to reduce bulk. Open out facing and turn seam allowances toward facing. Open out facing and turn seam allowances toward facing. Stitch on facing, close to seam, through all thickness. Tack Stitch on facing, close to seam, through all thickness. Tack facings on the inside to seams or darts.facings on the inside to seams or darts.


( III ) Darts( III ) Darts

Darts help shape the fabric to you. Taper darts to a smooth, Darts help shape the fabric to you. Taper darts to a smooth, pucker less point. Fold dart on centerline. Pin together on wrong pucker less point. Fold dart on centerline. Pin together on wrong side. Stitch on marking from wide part, tapering to nothing at side. Stitch on marking from wide part, tapering to nothing at the point. Tie threads at dart point. Cut thread ends ½ to 1 inch the point. Tie threads at dart point. Cut thread ends ½ to 1 inch from the knot. from the knot. Another type of dart, found in some garments without a Another type of dart, found in some garments without a waistline, is wider at the center and tapers to a point at both waistline, is wider at the center and tapers to a point at both ends. You stitch this dart from the center toward each point. ends. You stitch this dart from the center toward each point. Overlap stitching about 1 inch in the center of the dart. Overlap stitching about 1 inch in the center of the dart. The general rules for direction to press darts are as follows : The general rules for direction to press darts are as follows : 1. horizontal darts -- press fold of dart down 1. horizontal darts -- press fold of dart down 2. vertical darts -- press fold of dart toward center of garment. 2. vertical darts -- press fold of dart toward center of garment.


Collars are focal points and should look well made. Follow your Collars are focal points and should look well made. Follow your pattern guide sheet for construction regarding stitching, trimming, pattern guide sheet for construction regarding stitching, trimming, pressing, and interfacing. These additional tips may help you. pressing, and interfacing. These additional tips may help you.

( IV ) Collars( IV ) Collars

11 Keep the shape true. You may mark seam lines so you can stitch in exactly Keep the shape true. You may mark seam lines so you can stitch in exactly the right place. the right place.

22 Stitch collar to prevent under collar from showing. You may trim the under Stitch collar to prevent under collar from showing. You may trim the under collar a scant 1/8 inch along outside edges ( not neck edge ). Pin it to upper collar a scant 1/8 inch along outside edges ( not neck edge ). Pin it to upper collar with outer edges even and stitch, easing upper collar to under collar. collar with outer edges even and stitch, easing upper collar to under collar. This is called bubbling a collar! This is called bubbling a collar!

33 Sharp corners. Take one or two stitches diagonally across corners to make Sharp corners. Take one or two stitches diagonally across corners to make them easier to turn. Trim corners diagonally. them easier to turn. Trim corners diagonally.

44 Smooth corners. Clip or notch curves to eliminate bulk. Grade seam Smooth corners. Clip or notch curves to eliminate bulk. Grade seam allowance. Another method is simply to trim close to stitching of curved area. allowance. Another method is simply to trim close to stitching of curved area.

55 Hide under collar. Under stitch the seam at the outer edge. Under stitching Hide under collar. Under stitch the seam at the outer edge. Under stitching should be on under collar close to seam; catch the graded seam allowance.should be on under collar close to seam; catch the graded seam allowance.


( V ) Zippers( V ) Zippers

Zippers need not be as threatening as they sometimes seem. Zippers need not be as threatening as they sometimes seem. Zippers come in different weights, lengths, and colors and Zippers come in different weights, lengths, and colors and may have metal or synthetic coils. Choose the color and may have metal or synthetic coils. Choose the color and weight suitable for your fabric. weight suitable for your fabric.

The most popular in the market is following :--The most popular in the market is following :--

•YKKYKK

•TalonTalon


Choose the zipper application suited to the zipper location Choose the zipper application suited to the zipper location and type of garment. and type of garment.

Lapped :Lapped : This is the most satisfactory method for most zipper This is the most satisfactory method for most zipper openings. It covers the zipper well when properly done. openings. It covers the zipper well when properly done. This may be used at center back and is always used for a This may be used at center back and is always used for a side opening. It should be about 3/8 inch to ½ inch wide. side opening. It should be about 3/8 inch to ½ inch wide. It is also called placket. It is also called placket.

Centered Centered or slot :or slot :

Though this does not cover the zipper as well as the Though this does not cover the zipper as well as the lapped application does, it may sometimes be used for a lapped application does, it may sometimes be used for a center back or center front opening. Never use it at a side center back or center front opening. Never use it at a side opening. It should be about ¼ inch wide on each side. opening. It should be about ¼ inch wide on each side.

Trouser :Trouser : Boys and girls may choose this application for front of Boys and girls may choose this application for front of pants. Width of lap varies according to pattern ( also pants. Width of lap varies according to pattern ( also called fly zipper ). called fly zipper ).


Have trouble topstitching straight ?! Have trouble topstitching straight ?! Use masking tape or other tape as a guide for a straight Use masking tape or other tape as a guide for a straight topstitch line. topstitch line.

Invisible :Invisible : A special type of zipper is available for limited use. A special type of zipper is available for limited use. Robes and other lounging garment may utilize this Robes and other lounging garment may utilize this zipper. Since it is used very little in ready-to-wear, it zipper. Since it is used very little in ready-to-wear, it may tend to make other garments look homemade. may tend to make other garments look homemade. You may use the directions that come with the zipper You may use the directions that come with the zipper or consult other references for its insertion. Some or consult other references for its insertion. Some pattern guide sheets also give fairly detailed pattern guide sheets also give fairly detailed instructions. instructions.


( VI ) Sleeves( VI ) Sleeves Sleeves can be easy, believe it or not. They just take a little Sleeves can be easy, believe it or not. They just take a little know-how. know-how. ( a ) Set-In Sleeves( a ) Set-In Sleeves A set-in sleeve should have a A set-in sleeve should have a smooth cap with no puckers or smooth cap with no puckers or tucked places. Distribute ease tucked places. Distribute ease so there is none for about 1 so there is none for about 1 inch at tip of cap. inch at tip of cap.


Make one or two ease lines by machine on or within the Make one or two ease lines by machine on or within the seamline. You will probably develop your own preference about seamline. You will probably develop your own preference about the number of ease lines and their placements after you have had the number of ease lines and their placements after you have had experience setting in sleeves.experience setting in sleeves.

Pull the ease lines slightly, and then roll seamline over fingers as Pull the ease lines slightly, and then roll seamline over fingers as you pin the sleeve in the garment. Stitch with sleeve up and you pin the sleeve in the garment. Stitch with sleeve up and garment next to feed dog. A second line of stitching ¼ inch garment next to feed dog. A second line of stitching ¼ inch inside the first can be used to reinforce underarm between inside the first can be used to reinforce underarm between notches, or it can be used around the entire sleeve seam. Trim notches, or it can be used around the entire sleeve seam. Trim seam underarm or all around. seam underarm or all around.


( b ) Raglan Sleeve( b ) Raglan Sleeve

The raglan set is modified The raglan set is modified from set-in sleeve, which is from set-in sleeve, which is the styling design.the styling design.

Finished the underarm Finished the underarm seam of sleeve and side seam of sleeve and side seam body .seam body .

Then, Then, stitch with sleeve up and garment next to feed dog stitch with sleeve up and garment next to feed dog match the notches. match the notches. Trim seam of armhole / underarm or all Trim seam of armhole / underarm or all around.around.


( VII ) Hems( VII ) Hems Hems should be as Hems should be as inconspicuous as inconspicuous as possible and not possible and not detract from outside detract from outside appearances. appearances.


( a ) Skirt Hem( a ) Skirt Hem Mark the hemline of skirts. Put on the garment with the shoes Mark the hemline of skirts. Put on the garment with the shoes you normally will wear with it. Have someone use a hem you normally will wear with it. Have someone use a hem marker or yardstick and put a row of pins where the button marker or yardstick and put a row of pins where the button fold of the hem will come. Stand still while your hem is being fold of the hem will come. Stand still while your hem is being marked. marked.

Examine marked line to see if it is even. If not, measure again Examine marked line to see if it is even. If not, measure again and move the pins to form an even line. Fold hem back along and move the pins to form an even line. Fold hem back along the marked line, and pin. Hand bastes or pin near the fold. the marked line, and pin. Hand bastes or pin near the fold. Press lightly on fold, not pressing on basting pins. Press lightly on fold, not pressing on basting pins.


Mark hem width and then trim to an even depth. The weight Mark hem width and then trim to an even depth. The weight of fabric and amount of flare determine the hem width. of fabric and amount of flare determine the hem width.

Grade seams from hem fold and raw edge. Reduce fullness Grade seams from hem fold and raw edge. Reduce fullness in in flared skirts. Baste stitch by machine about ¼ inch from the flared skirts. Baste stitch by machine about ¼ inch from the edge; begin and end at each seam line. Pull bobbin thread to edge; begin and end at each seam line. Pull bobbin thread to ease hem and make it fit flat against skirt. ease hem and make it fit flat against skirt.

Shrink out fullness in hem. Place brown paper between hem Shrink out fullness in hem. Place brown paper between hem and outer fabric. Finish hem edge according to fabric and and outer fabric. Finish hem edge according to fabric and type of garment. Proceed with a finish and hand stitching. type of garment. Proceed with a finish and hand stitching.


( b ) Trouser Hem( b ) Trouser Hem

To hem un-cuffed trousers, you may follow this procedure : To hem un-cuffed trousers, you may follow this procedure : Measure desired length from inseam and/or waistband seam. Measure desired length from inseam and/or waistband seam. Mark with chalk or other marking tool. Draw a diagonal line Mark with chalk or other marking tool. Draw a diagonal line ( line 1 ) across the bottom of the pants leg on both sides. ( line 1 ) across the bottom of the pants leg on both sides. Pants may be ½ inch longer in back than front. Line 1 will be Pants may be ½ inch longer in back than front. Line 1 will be your fold line for the new hem. Measure 2 ½ to 3 inches your fold line for the new hem. Measure 2 ½ to 3 inches down, and draw a line parallel with the first. This will be your down, and draw a line parallel with the first. This will be your cutting line. cutting line.


Mark the second leg from the first one rather than measuring Mark the second leg from the first one rather than measuring twice ( unless you have one leg shorter than the other ). This twice ( unless you have one leg shorter than the other ). This saves time and is usually more accurate.saves time and is usually more accurate.

Cut off excess fabric below line 2. Fold hem and press. If hem Cut off excess fabric below line 2. Fold hem and press. If hem seems too narrow to fit back into trouser leg, steam and stretch seems too narrow to fit back into trouser leg, steam and stretch the top of hem to make it fit. Add hem finish, and hand stitch. the top of hem to make it fit. Add hem finish, and hand stitch.


( c ) Hem Finishes( c ) Hem Finishes

Turned Under and Stitched Turned Under and Stitched ( Clean Finished ) ( Clean Finished ) Use for light- to medium-Use for light- to medium-weight fabrics. Press under weight fabrics. Press under ¼ inch of hem edge and ¼ inch of hem edge and then machine stitch about then machine stitch about 1/8 inch from edge. This is 1/8 inch from edge. This is a durable, widely used a durable, widely used finish. finish.


Fuse a HemFuse a Hem With new heat-sensitive fusible webs - Hem Tape ( such as With new heat-sensitive fusible webs - Hem Tape ( such as stitch witchery, can be purchased from Vilene ), pressing stitch witchery, can be purchased from Vilene ), pressing replaces hand and machine stitching. These work well on a replaces hand and machine stitching. These work well on a variety of fabrics -- but not all. Test on a scrap of material to variety of fabrics -- but not all. Test on a scrap of material to see how it will look and feel. see how it will look and feel. 1. Press hem, easing fullness, if needed. 1. Press hem, easing fullness, if needed. 2. Finish raw edge, if needed. 2. Finish raw edge, if needed. 3. Place narrow strip of web just below edge. 3. Place narrow strip of web just below edge. 4. Press, following package directions. 4. Press, following package directions. PS : There are several ways to finish a hem edge.PS : There are several ways to finish a hem edge.


( d ) Hem Tape( d ) Hem Tape Heavy, ravel fabrics should not be turned under Heavy, ravel fabrics should not be turned under at the edge. You may use hem tape. Place tape to at the edge. You may use hem tape. Place tape to lie half on and half off hem edge. Machine stitch lie half on and half off hem edge. Machine stitch close to edge of tape. Don't forget to shrink the close to edge of tape. Don't forget to shrink the tape before you do this.tape before you do this.


This quick-method hem is acceptable for use on some hems. This quick-method hem is acceptable for use on some hems. Press hem to wrong side, easing in any fullness. From Press hem to wrong side, easing in any fullness. From right side, stitch near edge and again ¼ inch away. You can right side, stitch near edge and again ¼ inch away. You can use use this even on curved hems. You may use this type for wider this even on curved hems. You may use this type for wider hems, except for those that are curved. hems, except for those that are curved. Use your fine needle and single thread. The part of the stitch Use your fine needle and single thread. The part of the stitch that catches the outside of the garment should be very small that catches the outside of the garment should be very small and about ½ inch apart.and about ½ inch apart. Do not pull stitches tight, or a puckered line will show. Hide Do not pull stitches tight, or a puckered line will show. Hide knot under hem or at a side seam as you start; fasten end of knot under hem or at a side seam as you start; fasten end of thread with a few over-and-over stitches on hem side.thread with a few over-and-over stitches on hem side.

( f ) Topstitched( f ) Topstitched


( g ) Stay stitching( g ) Stay stitching

The purpose of stay stitching is to prevent stretching of fabric The purpose of stay stitching is to prevent stretching of fabric in handling and construction. Stay stitching is a line of machine in handling and construction. Stay stitching is a line of machine stitching ( 10 to 12 stitches per inch ) ½ inch from the cut edge. stitching ( 10 to 12 stitches per inch ) ½ inch from the cut edge. Stitch with matching thread through a single thickness of fabric. Stitch with matching thread through a single thickness of fabric. You need not reverse stitch to fasten. You may need to loosen You need not reverse stitch to fasten. You may need to loosen your machine tension while sewing through just one thickness your machine tension while sewing through just one thickness so your fabric will not pucker. so your fabric will not pucker.


You probably have been anxious to learn You probably have been anxious to learn to use the sewing machine. This is an to use the sewing machine. This is an expensive piece of equipment, so you expensive piece of equipment, so you must learn to care for the machine as you must learn to care for the machine as you learn to use it. There are many brands and learn to use it. There are many brands and models of machines. Learn to control your models of machines. Learn to control your machine and make it work for you. Get machine and make it work for you. Get someone to help you learn to use your someone to help you learn to use your sewing machine when you first start sewing machine when you first start sewing. sewing.

10A. Sewing Machine10A. Sewing Machine


More and more sewers are becoming owners of this fast and More and more sewers are becoming owners of this fast and exciting sewing invention. A serger, in regard to the sewing exciting sewing invention. A serger, in regard to the sewing machine, is often compared with the microwave to the oven. machine, is often compared with the microwave to the oven. It does many things, and does many things fast, but doesn't It does many things, and does many things fast, but doesn't take the place of the basic machine. A serger uses three, four, take the place of the basic machine. A serger uses three, four, or five threads instead of the two threads used by a regular or five threads instead of the two threads used by a regular sewing machine. Because of the extra threads, the serger sewing machine. Because of the extra threads, the serger looks more complicated, but you will be delighted how easy looks more complicated, but you will be delighted how easy it is to operate. Give it a try. In no time, you'll make it is to operate. Give it a try. In no time, you'll make sensational serged projects. sensational serged projects.

10B. Serger / Overlocking Machine10B. Serger / Overlocking Machine


How Sergers Differ from Conventional How Sergers Differ from Conventional MachinesMachines Although there are many ways to use a serger, Although there are many ways to use a serger, they cannot do everything. For example, they cannot do everything. For example, topstitching and buttonholes cannot be done topstitching and buttonholes cannot be done with a serger, and you may not wish to insert with a serger, and you may not wish to insert a zipper with a serger. Other ways sergers differ a zipper with a serger. Other ways sergers differ from conventional machines include the from conventional machines include the following : following : Sergers are faster. They stitch 1,300 to 1,700 Sergers are faster. They stitch 1,300 to 1,700 stitches per minute, while a conventional stitches per minute, while a conventional machine sews 900 to 1,000 per minute. machine sews 900 to 1,000 per minute.


Sergers have a longer presser foot and feed dogs that hold Sergers have a longer presser foot and feed dogs that hold fabrics firmly and evenly. Fabrics will not shift and pucker. fabrics firmly and evenly. Fabrics will not shift and pucker. Sergers will not jam if sewing without fabric. They have two Sergers will not jam if sewing without fabric. They have two to five spools of thread, one for each needle and / or looper. to five spools of thread, one for each needle and / or looper. 1. Sergers do not have bobbins; instead, they have loopers. 1. Sergers do not have bobbins; instead, they have loopers. 2. Sergers have two sets of knives that trim the seam 2. Sergers have two sets of knives that trim the seam allowance before the seam is finished. allowance before the seam is finished. 3. Sergers use a knitting process to form stitches. 3. Sergers use a knitting process to form stitches.


Blind stitch machine for hemmingBlind stitch machine for hemming 1. Mark new length by 1. Mark new length by having someone measure from having someone measure from floor. floor. 2. Mark a line to cut away excess 2. Mark a line to cut away excess fabric. fabric. 3.3. Press new hem; grade seams Press new hem; grade seams turned up in hem. turned up in hem. 4. Finish hem edge to prevent 4. Finish hem edge to prevent raveling. raveling. 5. Pin in place; then blind stitch. 5. Pin in place; then blind stitch.

Blind Stitch MachineBlind Stitch Machine

10C. Blind Stitch Machine10C. Blind Stitch Machine


10D. Hand Knitting Machine10D. Hand Knitting Machine

Sweater is made up by knitting machine Sweater is made up by knitting machine ( either hand knit, or auto machine ) ( either hand knit, or auto machine ) using 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, or 14 gauge.using 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, or 14 gauge.

Most of the difficult design jacquard Most of the difficult design jacquard pattern on the sweater item can be made pattern on the sweater item can be made by the technique of hand knitting by the technique of hand knitting machine.machine.

The simple pattern, or basic stitch like The simple pattern, or basic stitch like jersey, full needle can be produced by jersey, full needle can be produced by auto machine.auto machine.


Different type of hand knitting machine in the marketDifferent type of hand knitting machine in the market


10E. Embroidery Machine10E. Embroidery Machine

Embroidery is one of the Embroidery is one of the decoration on a garment that it decoration on a garment that it made the clothes special, which made the clothes special, which is the one of the fashion design.is the one of the fashion design.

Usually, embroidery will be doneUsually, embroidery will be doneOn the block cut piece, and it will be trimmed again based on On the block cut piece, and it will be trimmed again based on the paper pattern, in order to make sure the embroidery the paper pattern, in order to make sure the embroidery placement is placed properly on the garment that what the placement is placed properly on the garment that what the buyer expected.buyer expected.


Repairing clothes pays off in better appearance and savings Repairing clothes pays off in better appearance and savings for the factory. Now, as always, the stitch-in-time means for the factory. Now, as always, the stitch-in-time means fewer clothing replacements and more money for other fewer clothing replacements and more money for other needs.needs.

The sewing machine and some mending aids save time and The sewing machine and some mending aids save time and energy, but handwork is also an important part of repairing energy, but handwork is also an important part of repairing clothes. clothes.

10F. Clothing Repairs10F. Clothing Repairs


Repair a Loose HemRepair a Loose Hem What looks more neglected than a sagging hem ?! You can What looks more neglected than a sagging hem ?! You can repair a hem easily. repair a hem easily. 1. First, remove only broken or loose stitches; secure 1. First, remove only broken or loose stitches; secure thread ends. thread ends. 2. Pin hem back in place. 2. Pin hem back in place. 3. Use matching thread. 3. Use matching thread. 4. Re-stitch the open sections, beginning and ending at a 4. Re-stitch the open sections, beginning and ending at a seam, if possible. ( Stitch from hem side, not the seam, if possible. ( Stitch from hem side, not the garment side. ) garment side. ) 5. Remove pins and press. 5. Remove pins and press.


Remove a Hem CreaseRemove a Hem Crease When you let out a hem, check to see that the original hem When you let out a hem, check to see that the original hem fold has not left a line or crease. If it has, try one of the fold has not left a line or crease. If it has, try one of the following: following: 1. Sponge crease with a solution of equal parts of white 1. Sponge crease with a solution of equal parts of white vinegar and water; press. You may test this on a small area. vinegar and water; press. You may test this on a small area. 2. Press with aluminum foil " Sandwich ". Place on your 2. Press with aluminum foil " Sandwich ". Place on your ironing board in this order: aluminum foil, hem, aluminum ironing board in this order: aluminum foil, hem, aluminum foil; press with a hot, dry iron. foil; press with a hot, dry iron. 3. Use a spot remover on the crease; conceal it with a line of 3. Use a spot remover on the crease; conceal it with a line of topstitching, decorative stitching, or trim. topstitching, decorative stitching, or trim.


Fuse a HemFuse a Hem With new heat-sensitive fusible webs ( such as stitch With new heat-sensitive fusible webs ( such as stitch witchery, can be purchased from Vilene ), pressing witchery, can be purchased from Vilene ), pressing replaces hand and machine stitching. These work well on a replaces hand and machine stitching. These work well on a variety of fabrics -- but not all. Test on a scrap of material variety of fabrics -- but not all. Test on a scrap of material to see how it will look and feel. to see how it will look and feel. 1. Press hem, easing fullness, if needed. 1. Press hem, easing fullness, if needed. 2. Finish raw edge, if needed. 2. Finish raw edge, if needed. 3. Place narrow strip of web just below edge. 3. Place narrow strip of web just below edge. 4. Press, following package directions. 4. Press, following package directions. PS : There are several ways to finish a hem edge.PS : There are several ways to finish a hem edge.


( I ) Button :( I ) Button :

There are many colors, sizes, There are many colors, sizes, shapes, and weights of buttons, shapes, and weights of buttons, and they are made of different and they are made of different materials. Some people like to materials. Some people like to collect unusual buttons. Keep a collect unusual buttons. Keep a container of extra buttons you container of extra buttons you can use to replace ones that are can use to replace ones that are lost from your clothes. lost from your clothes.

10G. Buttons / Snap10G. Buttons / Snap


( a ) Types of Buttons( a ) Types of Buttons Ball Ball Shank Shank Two-Hole Two-Hole Four-Hole Four-Hole CoveredCovered These types of buttons can be These types of buttons can be chosen for items for which you chosen for items for which you make machine buttonholes, make machine buttonholes, except one. Use the ball button except one. Use the ball button only with button loops, since it only with button loops, since it would not stay fastened well would not stay fastened well with a regular buttonhole. with a regular buttonhole.


( b ) Button Location( b ) Button Location 1. Pin the garment so it 1. Pin the garment so it looks as if it is buttoned. looks as if it is buttoned. 2. Place a straight pin through 2. Place a straight pin through the outer edge of a horizontal the outer edge of a horizontal buttonhole or though the buttonhole or though the center of a vertical center of a vertical buttonhole. buttonhole. 3. Unpin the garment, leaving 3. Unpin the garment, leaving the standing pin in the the standing pin in the underneath fabric. underneath fabric.


( II ) Snap :( II ) Snap :

There are many colors, sizes, shapes, and weights of snap, There are many colors, sizes, shapes, and weights of snap, and they are made of different materials. Some people like and they are made of different materials. Some people like to collect unusual snaps to make the clothes special.to collect unusual snaps to make the clothes special.

The most popular in the market is following :-- The most popular in the market is following :-- Universal / YKKUniversal / YKK


Repairing clothes pays off in better appearance and savings Repairing clothes pays off in better appearance and savings for the factory. Now, as always, the stitch-in-time means for the factory. Now, as always, the stitch-in-time means fewer clothing replacements and more money for other fewer clothing replacements and more money for other needs. The sewing machine and some mending aids save needs. The sewing machine and some mending aids save time and energy, but handwork is also an important part of time and energy, but handwork is also an important part of repairing clothes. repairing clothes.

10H. Clothing Repairs10H. Clothing Repairs


( I ) Repair a Loose Hem( I ) Repair a Loose Hem What looks more neglected than a sagging hem ?! You can What looks more neglected than a sagging hem ?! You can repair a hem easily. repair a hem easily. 1. First, remove only broken or loose stitches; secure 1. First, remove only broken or loose stitches; secure thread ends. thread ends. 2. Pin hem back in place. 2. Pin hem back in place. 3. Use matching thread. 3. Use matching thread. 4. Re-stitch the open sections, beginning and ending at a 4. Re-stitch the open sections, beginning and ending at a seam, if possible. ( Stitch from hem side, not the seam, if possible. ( Stitch from hem side, not the garment side. ) garment side. ) 5. Remove pins and press. 5. Remove pins and press.


( II ) Remove a Hem Crease( II ) Remove a Hem Crease When you let out a hem, check to see that the original hem When you let out a hem, check to see that the original hem fold has not left a line or crease. If it has, try one of the fold has not left a line or crease. If it has, try one of the following: following: 1. Sponge crease with a solution of equal parts of white 1. Sponge crease with a solution of equal parts of white vinegar and water; press. You may test this on a small area. vinegar and water; press. You may test this on a small area. 2. Press with aluminum foil " sandwich ". Place on your 2. Press with aluminum foil " sandwich ". Place on your ironing board in this order: aluminum foil, hem, aluminum ironing board in this order: aluminum foil, hem, aluminum foil; press with a hot, dry iron. foil; press with a hot, dry iron. 3. Use a spot remover on the crease; conceal it with a line of 3. Use a spot remover on the crease; conceal it with a line of topstitching, decorative stitching, or trim. topstitching, decorative stitching, or trim.


10J. Pressing Pointers10J. Pressing Pointers

Pressing Is ImportantPressing Is Important Pressing well is as important as stitching Pressing well is as important as stitching well. An article not pressed well will well. An article not pressed well will surely look " Homemade ". Good pressing surely look " Homemade ". Good pressing equipment is as important as good sewing equipment is as important as good sewing machine and shears and pins. You may machine and shears and pins. You may start with a few basic pieces. There are start with a few basic pieces. There are some pieces you can make yourself. The some pieces you can make yourself. The pieces you need depend on the kind and pieces you need depend on the kind and amount of sewing you do. amount of sewing you do.


Ironing board -- This needs a smooth, clean Ironing board -- This needs a smooth, clean cover. cover. The board should be lightly padded. A piece of The board should be lightly padded. A piece of plywood with a light pad and clean muslin cover plywood with a light pad and clean muslin cover can be a good substitute. can be a good substitute. Iron -- irons that can be used dry or with steam are preferable. Iron -- irons that can be used dry or with steam are preferable. Clean the sole plate or bottom of the iron as often as needed. Clean the sole plate or bottom of the iron as often as needed. Press cloth -- Many fabrics need this protection from the iron so Press cloth -- Many fabrics need this protection from the iron so they will not burn or become shiny. A piece of clean muslin or they will not burn or become shiny. A piece of clean muslin or old sheet may be used as well as a clean diaper or cotton old sheet may be used as well as a clean diaper or cotton handkerchief. Launder these frequently. handkerchief. Launder these frequently.


Dowel rod -- Use this to press open seams of tie belts or Dowel rod -- Use this to press open seams of tie belts or other tubes of fabric before you turn them. other tubes of fabric before you turn them. Water container -- You may want to keep a clean plastic Water container -- You may want to keep a clean plastic detergent bottle by your ironing board. Use it to fill the iron detergent bottle by your ironing board. Use it to fill the iron and to dampen your press cloth for some fabrics. Use and to dampen your press cloth for some fabrics. Use distilled water if the water is not soft. distilled water if the water is not soft. Pressing ham -- Press darts and other curved sections of Pressing ham -- Press darts and other curved sections of your garment on this. your garment on this.


Seam roll -- Prevents marks on the outside of garments when Seam roll -- Prevents marks on the outside of garments when seams are pressed open. It is useful for pressing sleeves. seams are pressed open. It is useful for pressing sleeves.

Needle board -- Allows napped fabrics, such as corduroy or Needle board -- Allows napped fabrics, such as corduroy or velveteen, to be pressed without matting them. A substitute velveteen, to be pressed without matting them. A substitute can be a fluffy towel pinned tightly over your ironing board. can be a fluffy towel pinned tightly over your ironing board. A stiff brush can raise the nap sometimes when it has been A stiff brush can raise the nap sometimes when it has been flattened. flattened. Press mitt -- This fits over the end of the ironing board. It Press mitt -- This fits over the end of the ironing board. It allows you to press some hard-to-reach areas. allows you to press some hard-to-reach areas.


Paper strips -- Slide strips of heavy paper underneath seam Paper strips -- Slide strips of heavy paper underneath seam edges, hems, or darts as you press some fabrics. This edges, hems, or darts as you press some fabrics. This prevents shiny seams or press marks. You can cut these strips prevents shiny seams or press marks. You can cut these strips from a paper grocery bag. from a paper grocery bag. Clapper / beater / pounding / block -- You may flatten seams, Clapper / beater / pounding / block -- You may flatten seams, hems, or edges by getting the area steamy and hitting with hems, or edges by getting the area steamy and hitting with this. Forcing the steam out quickly flattens the fabrics when this. Forcing the steam out quickly flattens the fabrics when needed. A brick wrapped in flannel can be a substitute. needed. A brick wrapped in flannel can be a substitute.


Point presser -- Use to press sharp, pointed collars and other Point presser -- Use to press sharp, pointed collars and other areas. This has a clapper as part of it. areas. This has a clapper as part of it.

Start your sewing with pressing. The pattern and fabric may Start your sewing with pressing. The pattern and fabric may need to be pressed before you cut out a garment, because both need to be pressed before you cut out a garment, because both should stay flat. The amount of heat and moisture and need should stay flat. The amount of heat and moisture and need for press clothe depends on the fabric. for press clothe depends on the fabric.


A. Folding Dress Pants –A. Folding Dress Pants – By holding the bottom of each By holding the bottom of each pants leg put the seams together, pants leg put the seams together, making sure the inside seams are making sure the inside seams are touching. Hold the bottom of the touching. Hold the bottom of the legs and put under your legs and put under your chin. Bring the waist of chin. Bring the waist of the pants up and fold in the pants up and fold in half, or hold on to each half, or hold on to each end and bring hands end and bring hands together.together.

10K. Folding Clothes10K. Folding Clothes


B. Folding Pants –B. Folding Pants –Casual Bottom / JeanCasual Bottom / Jean

Front is facing to up, and Front is facing to up, and fold the side seam to side fold the side seam to side seam, to be back facing seam, to be back facing up.up.

Hem to be folding Hem to be folding upwards with 1/3 total upwards with 1/3 total length, and fold upward length, and fold upward to waistband.to waistband.


C. Folding ShirtsC. Folding Shirts

First button every other button and the cuffs, if applicable. To First button every other button and the cuffs, if applicable. To find the top of the shirt, put your hand inside the top of each find the top of the shirt, put your hand inside the top of each sleeve. Shake out the shirt holding onto the top of it. Lay shirt sleeve. Shake out the shirt holding onto the top of it. Lay shirt face down on a table with the collar to the left. Pull the sleeves face down on a table with the collar to the left. Pull the sleeves out to the sides un-creasing the body as much as possible.out to the sides un-creasing the body as much as possible.


Bring the body of the shirt close to the edge of the table. Bring the body of the shirt close to the edge of the table. Put the index finger side of the left hand side next to the Put the index finger side of the left hand side next to the collar ( right side of shirt ), fingers pointing to the shirt tail, collar ( right side of shirt ), fingers pointing to the shirt tail, and fold over right side of shirt.and fold over right side of shirt.

Fold the right sleeve lining it up lengthwise with the shirt. Fold the right sleeve lining it up lengthwise with the shirt. Repeat for left side of shirt. Bring the tail end of the shirt Repeat for left side of shirt. Bring the tail end of the shirt up to the collar to fold in half lengthwise, or fold in thirds up to the collar to fold in half lengthwise, or fold in thirds by bringing the tail end up one third, and then fold again in by bringing the tail end up one third, and then fold again in a half.a half.


Put the hand inside each sleeve or Put the hand inside each sleeve or armhole and slide the hanger armhole and slide the hanger in. Button any top button to in. Button any top button to prevent the garment from sliding prevent the garment from sliding off. Line up either the tag on the off. Line up either the tag on the shirt with the hanger hook or shirt with the hanger hook or the shoulder seams with the the shoulder seams with the hanger arms.hanger arms.

D. Hanging Clothes ( Shirts and Dresses )D. Hanging Clothes ( Shirts and Dresses )


E. Hanging PantsE. Hanging Pants Crease the pants the same way Crease the pants the same way as when folding pants. Lay the as when folding pants. Lay the pants flat on a table with the pants flat on a table with the pant legs out in front of you. pant legs out in front of you. Slide the hanger under the pant Slide the hanger under the pant legs, almost to the crotch, and legs, almost to the crotch, and raise up off of the table.raise up off of the table.


Stains or spots on clothing Stains or spots on clothing must be found or must be found or identified by a sighted identified by a sighted person. The stain should person. The stain should be marked with a safety be marked with a safety pin, or if the spot is large pin, or if the spot is large surround the spot with surround the spot with safety pins. Use a pre-safety pins. Use a pre-wash or stain treatment wash or stain treatment and let it soak for a few and let it soak for a few minutes.minutes.

Cold Spotting TableCold Spotting Table

10L. Stain Removal10L. Stain Removal


11. Lab-Testing11. Lab-Testing

Lab-TestingLab-Testing

The word quality is often used to signify the degree of The word quality is often used to signify the degree of excellence of a product or service. There are many excellence of a product or service. There are many definitions of quality, expressed in many ways by various definitions of quality, expressed in many ways by various institutions and authors. However, the universally accepted institutions and authors. However, the universally accepted analogy for quality is that it is simply meeting customer analogy for quality is that it is simply meeting customer requirements. So, testing is a part of requirements. So, testing is a part of QualityQuality, and some , and some typical definitions of quality are listed below : typical definitions of quality are listed below :


The totality of features and characteristics of a The totality of features and characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs, and if any of them will stated or implied needs, and if any of them will against against Federal Regulation / LawFederal Regulation / Law. .

The total composite product and service The total composite product and service characteristics of marketing, engineering, characteristics of marketing, engineering, manufacture and maintenance through which the manufacture and maintenance through which the product and service in use will meet the product and service in use will meet the expectation by the customer set.expectation by the customer set.

Fitness for purpose or use.Fitness for purpose or use.

Conformance to requirementsConformance to requirements.


( I ) Performance Test ( incl. colorfastness ) :--( I ) Performance Test ( incl. colorfastness ) :--

For fabrics to conform to standards testing is required and For fabrics to conform to standards testing is required and includes routine monitoring of production quality. A sample includes routine monitoring of production quality. A sample is taken from each batch that is produced for a customer, is taken from each batch that is produced for a customer, and is monitored through carrying out the key tests that are and is monitored through carrying out the key tests that are required for that fabric. This ensures that a fabric quality is required for that fabric. This ensures that a fabric quality is consistent through production.consistent through production.

Product evaluation especially with new products requires Product evaluation especially with new products requires that the test results are used to assess the properties of a that the test results are used to assess the properties of a fabric to determine its strengths and weaknesses within its fabric to determine its strengths and weaknesses within its composition as required for its stated end use.composition as required for its stated end use.


( II ) Regulatory / Physical Test :--( II ) Regulatory / Physical Test :--

Investigation of results and complaints requires testing to Investigation of results and complaints requires testing to ensure that any problems are investigated to avoid to be ensure that any problems are investigated to avoid to be against against Federal Regulation / LawFederal Regulation / Law. This can be through . This can be through checking results or re-testing to ensure that testing had checking results or re-testing to ensure that testing had been carried out correctly, or to determine what the been carried out correctly, or to determine what the problem is so that the appropriate action can be taken.problem is so that the appropriate action can be taken.

The properties of textile materials are inherently variable. The properties of textile materials are inherently variable. For that reason it is inevitable that there will be slight For that reason it is inevitable that there will be slight variation in the results gained by different operators variation in the results gained by different operators using the same measuring equipment.using the same measuring equipment.


The variables of a laboratory include methods of The variables of a laboratory include methods of sampling, moisture relationships, calibrating equipment, sampling, moisture relationships, calibrating equipment, the use of statistics, and more importantly the validity the use of statistics, and more importantly the validity and reproducibility of test results. and reproducibility of test results.

For this reason a group of tests are carried out on For this reason a group of tests are carried out on individual fabrics and the results are recorded and individual fabrics and the results are recorded and analyzed. Testing ensures that there is not too much analyzed. Testing ensures that there is not too much variation from batch to batch with the help of test variation from batch to batch with the help of test methods and standards.methods and standards.


11A. Laboratory ( ITS / MTL )11A. Laboratory ( ITS / MTL )

ITS – Intertek Testing ServicesITS – Intertek Testing Services

ITS is the one assigned by ITS is the one assigned by Kohl’s doing lab-test for all Kohl’s doing lab-test for all soft-lines ( apparel ) and soft-lines ( apparel ) and softhome ( home textile ) softhome ( home textile ) including fabric test, trims test, including fabric test, trims test, garment test and KWIQ test.garment test and KWIQ test.

PS : Please refer what kind of PS : Please refer what kind of items to be compulsory for items to be compulsory for garment test, other than that, garment test, other than that, fabric test is mandatory.fabric test is mandatory.


MTL –MTL –Merchandise Testing Merchandise Testing LaboratoryLaboratory

MTL is the one of the MTL is the one of the laboratory assigned by laboratory assigned by Kohl’s doing lab-test for Kohl’s doing lab-test for Hardline.Hardline.


ItemsItems TestTest

Childrenwear ( 0-8 years ) -- Childrenwear ( 0-8 years ) -- ( Fabric + Garment )( Fabric + Garment )

Lightweight garments of fabric less than 2.6 Lightweight garments of fabric less than 2.6 oz/sq. yd. --oz/sq. yd. --

( Fabric + Garment )( Fabric + Garment )

Color blocked garments --Color blocked garments -- ( Fabric + Garment )( Fabric + Garment )

Garment of high loft / brushed fabrics --Garment of high loft / brushed fabrics -- ( Fabric + Garment )( Fabric + Garment )

Sweaters --Sweaters -- ( Garment only )( Garment only )

Wrinkle free/ resinated/ washed or wet Wrinkle free/ resinated/ washed or wet processed garments --processed garments --

( Garment only )( Garment only )

Down filled garments --Down filled garments -- ( Fabric + Garment )( Fabric + Garment )

Leather & Suede garments --Leather & Suede garments -- ( Garment only )( Garment only )

Cold weather --Cold weather -- ( Garment only )( Garment only )

Garment Test Items for Fall ‘2003Garment Test Items for Fall ‘2003


11B. Chemical Compound11B. Chemical Compound Flammability – Class 1, California Bulletin 116 / 117Flammability – Class 1, California Bulletin 116 / 117 Lead ContentLead Content Cadmium ContentCadmium Content Nickel ContentNickel Content FormaldehydeFormaldehyde TCMTB TCMTB 2-(Thiocyanomethylthio)benzothiazole 2-(Thiocyanomethylthio)benzothiazole

PS : Getting more information, please visit below web sites :--PS : Getting more information, please visit below web sites :--http://www.cpsc.gov/http://www.cpsc.gov/http://www.prop65news.com/http://www.prop65news.com/http://www.calprop65.com/http://www.calprop65.com/http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html/http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html/


Lead Content :--Lead Content :--

It should be contained inside the Paint, and Coating Surface. It should be contained inside the Paint, and Coating Surface. This kind of chemical compound is not allowed any State of This kind of chemical compound is not allowed any State of America.America.

Cadmium Content :--Cadmium Content :--

It should be contained inside the Pigment ( dye stuff ), Plastic It should be contained inside the Pigment ( dye stuff ), Plastic and Synthetics. This kind of chemical compound can cause and Synthetics. This kind of chemical compound can cause cancer, and it have been listed in State of California, and cancer, and it have been listed in State of California, and limited to be used.limited to be used.


Nickel Content :--Nickel Content :--

It should be contained inside Metal Alloys, Cast Irons, It should be contained inside Metal Alloys, Cast Irons, Electroplating Materials. This kind of chemical compound is Electroplating Materials. This kind of chemical compound is also listed in State of California to be used limitedly.also listed in State of California to be used limitedly.

Formaldehyde :--Formaldehyde :--

It should contained inside Resin Treatment ( for shrinkage / It should contained inside Resin Treatment ( for shrinkage / finishing ), Coating Surface and Glue. This kind of chemical finishing ), Coating Surface and Glue. This kind of chemical compound can also cause cancer, listed in State of California.compound can also cause cancer, listed in State of California.


TCMTB :-- 2-(Thiocyanomethylthio)benzothiazoleTCMTB :-- 2-(Thiocyanomethylthio)benzothiazole

TCMTB is the ONLY one of the fungicide treatment allowed TCMTB is the ONLY one of the fungicide treatment allowed for leather / suede product in the state of California, which can for leather / suede product in the state of California, which can prevent the mold to be grown during shipping from Far East prevent the mold to be grown during shipping from Far East to States. Due to different temperature / moisture in between.to States. Due to different temperature / moisture in between.


11C. Child Safety11C. Child Safety

1.1. Small Part SecuritySmall Part Security – Choking hazard – Choking hazard2.2. Drawstring – Drawstring – Choking hazard, avoid to be on neck, head, Choking hazard, avoid to be on neck, head,

and bottom of waist.and bottom of waist.3.3. Bungee cordBungee cord – Choking hazard, must tack down at middle – Choking hazard, must tack down at middle

of centerof center4.4. Sharp Edge / Sharp PointSharp Edge / Sharp Point – Skin harm – Skin harm5.5. FlammabilityFlammability – Sleepwear ( Snug fit ) catches fire easily, – Sleepwear ( Snug fit ) catches fire easily,

measurements adhered.measurements adhered.

PS : Get more information from below web site :--PS : Get more information from below web site :--http://www.cpsc.gov/http://www.safekids.org/


11D. Non-YKK Zipper Approval11D. Non-YKK Zipper Approval

Kohl’s allowed to use Kohl’s allowed to use Non-YKK zipper for Non-YKK zipper for production, but subject production, but subject to meet all requirements to meet all requirements as Kohl’s set ( see as Kohl’s set ( see beside table ).beside table ).

PS :PS :YKK zipper is the YKK zipper is the ONLY one zipper that ONLY one zipper that using for production no using for production no need for testing.need for testing.


11E. Grouping Test – Cool Weather11E. Grouping Test – Cool WeatherKohl’s offers a big favor allowing for grouping test when doing Kohl’s offers a big favor allowing for grouping test when doing cool weather accessories.cool weather accessories.• Regulatory / Performance TestRegulatory / Performance Test – Whenever is applicable for – Whenever is applicable for the 1the 1stst group. group.• Performance TestPerformance Test – Will be on biggest item - Scarf. – Will be on biggest item - Scarf.PS : Other group(s) with same styling / construction and PS : Other group(s) with same styling / construction and fabrication will be doing colorfastness testing only.fabrication will be doing colorfastness testing only.


Quality :--Quality :--

Quality has always been important to the end item users, Quality has always been important to the end item users, whether an individual or a company, but only since recent whether an individual or a company, but only since recent couple ten years quality is increasingly being recognized as an couple ten years quality is increasingly being recognized as an important business strategy. Importance of quality is very well important business strategy. Importance of quality is very well recognized in the capital goods industries, however, in the recognized in the capital goods industries, however, in the apparel industry where fashion dictates the market place and apparel industry where fashion dictates the market place and where there are multitude of variables in terms of raw where there are multitude of variables in terms of raw materials, manufacturing processes, universally recognized. materials, manufacturing processes, universally recognized.

12. Quality Assurance12. Quality Assurance


But then again, there are a few success stories built on But then again, there are a few success stories built on quality in this industry such as Liz Claiborne, Jone New quality in this industry such as Liz Claiborne, Jone New York, Levi’s, Jockey and even Kohl’s to just name a few. York, Levi’s, Jockey and even Kohl’s to just name a few. Also, producing better / higher quality apparel is one of the Also, producing better / higher quality apparel is one of the chief strategies that the apparel industries in the developed chief strategies that the apparel industries in the developed countries are using to fight-off increasing waves of imports countries are using to fight-off increasing waves of imports from developing countries.from developing countries.

Quality commitment is a matter of survival in a highly Quality commitment is a matter of survival in a highly competitive world, and rapid pace era. Both productivity and competitive world, and rapid pace era. Both productivity and customer satisfaction demand it.customer satisfaction demand it.


Quality can be defined as a combination of various Quality can be defined as a combination of various characteristics or properties of a product, which make that characteristics or properties of a product, which make that product usable, and attention to quality is increasingly product usable, and attention to quality is increasingly viewed as a means to increase productivity through more viewed as a means to increase productivity through more effective use of people, materials and methods. effective use of people, materials and methods.

Quality also can be defined in terms of a products’ Quality also can be defined in terms of a products’ conformance to the design, specifications, standards, etc. conformance to the design, specifications, standards, etc. Also, quality is a reflection of customer opinion on the Also, quality is a reflection of customer opinion on the value, he / she sees in your product compared to that of your value, he / she sees in your product compared to that of your competitors.competitors.


QualityQuality is a customer / end consumer determination. In the is a customer / end consumer determination. In the phrase phrase Quality AssuranceQuality Assurance , the word of , the word of QualityQuality means means The The Best for Certain RequirementBest for Certain Requirement. These requirements are the . These requirements are the actual use and Selling price of the product. actual use and Selling price of the product.

Below table shows the nine dimensions of quality with their Below table shows the nine dimensions of quality with their Meanings :Meanings :


PerformancePerformance Primary product characteristics, such as the brightness of Primary product characteristics, such as the brightness of the picturethe picture

FeaturesFeatures Secondary characteristics, added features, such as Secondary characteristics, added features, such as remote controlremote control

ConformanceConformance Meeting specification or industry standards, workmanshipMeeting specification or industry standards, workmanship

ReliabilityReliability Consistency of performance over time, average time for Consistency of performance over time, average time for the unit to failthe unit to fail

DurabilityDurability Useful life, includes repairUseful life, includes repair

ServiceService Resolution of problem and complaints. Ease of repairResolution of problem and complaints. Ease of repair

ResponseResponse Human-to-human interface, such as the courtesy of the Human-to-human interface, such as the courtesy of the dealerdealer

AestheticsAesthetics Sensory characteristics, such as exterior finishSensory characteristics, such as exterior finish

ReputationReputation Past performance and other intangibles, such as being Past performance and other intangibles, such as being ranked firstranked first


Help the factory to help Help the factory to help themselves - Factory QA themselves - Factory QA Training.Training.

Set up Mini QA Center Set up Mini QA Center inside the factory to inside the factory to conduct quality conduct quality monitoring on behalf of monitoring on behalf of Colby & Kohl’s.Colby & Kohl’s.

Create the sense of Create the sense of Quality concept between Quality concept between Factory Management & Factory Management & workers.workers.

Prevent Quality issue at Prevent Quality issue at the last minute.the last minute.

Safe-guard standard and Safe-guard standard and on-time delivery.on-time delivery.

Reduce Colby QC/QA Reduce Colby QC/QA travelling time and travelling time and expenses.expenses.

12A. Mini QA Center12A. Mini QA Center


A ccessoryIn sp ec tion

W ash in gTes tin g Q A

P ress in gP ack in g Q A

F ab ric & D ye L o tIn sp ec tion

In -lin e R ovin gQ A

F in a l S ta tionQ A

A Q LF in a l A u d it

S ew in gQ A

F ac to ry Q A C h ie f

Mini QA Center Organization ChartMini QA Center Organization Chart


Mini QA Center ProceduresMini QA Center Procedures Quality Assurance ProcedureQuality Assurance Procedure

Production FlowProduction Flow QA functionQA function

Raw MaterialRaw Material Fabric InspectionFabric Inspection (4 Point System)(4 Point System)Accessory InspectionAccessory Inspection

CuttingCutting Spreading & CuttingSpreading & Cutting

WashingWashing QA Measurement & Outlook AppearanceQA Measurement & Outlook Appearance

In-line QAIn-line QASewing Line Sewing Line Final QAFinal QA

AQL QAAQL QA

Pressing & PackingPressing & Packing Pressing & Packing QAPressing & Packing QA

Fty Final AuditFty Final Audit Check Packed QtyCheck Packed QtyFinal InspectionFinal Inspection


Central AmericaCentral America• GuatemalaGuatemala• HondurasHonduras• NicaraguaNicaragua• El SalvadorEl Salvador

ChinaChina• ShanghaiShanghai• GuangzhouGuangzhou

Middle & East AsiaMiddle & East Asia• IndonesiaIndonesia• ThailandThailand• Sri LankaSri Lanka• PhilippinesPhilippines• PakistanPakistan

Countries that started with Mini QA CenterCountries that started with Mini QA Center


12B. KWIQ Test 12B. KWIQ Test Kohl’s Wash Test to Insure QualityKohl’s Wash Test to Insure Quality


KWIQ Test Report

Colby QA, or ITS will be rating the KWIQ test sample by issuing the KWIQ test report.


For a clothing product to be useful / competitive, it must be :--For a clothing product to be useful / competitive, it must be :-- 1.1. Free from defects such as stains, weaving or knitting defects, open Free from defects such as stains, weaving or knitting defects, open

seams, loose / hanging / untrimmed threads, misaligned buttons seams, loose / hanging / untrimmed threads, misaligned buttons and buttonholes, defective zippers etc.and buttonholes, defective zippers etc.

2.2. Perform satisfactorily in normal use, meaning that the product Perform satisfactorily in normal use, meaning that the product must be able to withstand normal refurbishing without color loss must be able to withstand normal refurbishing without color loss or shrinkage, seams must not come apart etc.or shrinkage, seams must not come apart etc.

3.3. Fitted properly for labeled size subject to the specification Fitted properly for labeled size subject to the specification requirement.requirement.

4.4. Meet the requirement which is set from the Regulation / Law.Meet the requirement which is set from the Regulation / Law. Not only that the clothing should be able to satisfy psychological Not only that the clothing should be able to satisfy psychological needs in terms of aesthetics, overall appearance, and fashion.needs in terms of aesthetics, overall appearance, and fashion.


Below shows what is a quality garment :Below shows what is a quality garment : A.A. Physical NeedsPhysical Needs

1. Right fit and size1. Right fit and size2. Comfort and function2. Comfort and function3. Durability3. Durability4. Good color quality4. Good color quality

a. Color fastnessa. Color fastnessb. Color co-ordinationb. Color co-ordinationc. Shade consistencec. Shade consistence


B. Psychological NeedsB. Psychological Needs

1. Aesthetics1. Aestheticsa. Appearance & looka. Appearance & lookb. Balance and color etc.b. Balance and color etc.

2. Fashion trends2. Fashion trends3. Market need and consumer’s behavior3. Market need and consumer’s behavior4. Self esteem / confidence4. Self esteem / confidence5. Conformity5. Conformity


C. Customers’ satisfaction guaranteeC. Customers’ satisfaction guarantee

1. Product value1. Product value2. Customer’s services2. Customer’s services3. Exchange / return policy3. Exchange / return policy


D. Regulation / Law RequirementD. Regulation / Law Requirement

1. Consumer’s right1. Consumer’s right2. Consumer’s health2. Consumer’s health3. Product Safety3. Product Safety


Thank YouThank You

Acquisition of Apparel Industry - Kohl's ( 2003-0601 )

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Transcript of Acquisition of Apparel Industry - Kohl's ( 2003-0601 )