Laclede County Master

Gardeners

186 N. Adams Ave. Lebanon

Ph. 532-7126

President

Pam Smith, 417-839-5610

psmith@durhamcompany.com

Vice President

Glennie Kinnett 417- 588-0198

GlennieKinnett03@gmail.com

Secretary

Barbara Thompson 417-533-8148

Treasurer

Maggie Hill, 417-588-9396

docmaggiemoo@gmail.com

Newsletter Editor

Robert “Bob” Smith III, 417-532-5783

onevol90@gmail.com

Master Gardeners of Laclede County

186-D N. Adams Ave.

Lebanon, Missouri 65536

Phone: 417-532-7126 • Fax: 417-532-4587

University of Missouri Extension does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, religion, age, disability or status as a Vietnam-era veteran in employment or programs.

The Official Publication of The Laclede County Master Gardeners

April – 2013

A Visit To Marilyn’s Garden Center,

Work Day April 6th, Plant Sale Plans

Underway For This Year.

*Marilyn's

Our next meeting will be on Thursday, April 4th at 6:30 PM

out on North 5 at Marilyn's Garden Center. Last year's meeting

was extremely informative as so promises this year th the

subject being what's new in the world of plants.

The important thing to remember is, “DO NOT” go to the

extension office first. All activities will be taking place at

Marilyn's. You will be given an opportunity to wander around

in the nursery to possibly select additional flowers. Hope to

see you there on the fourth

*Workday

It was decided at the March meeting to have our first workday

at the Moneymaker House on Saturday, April 6. This year's

project will be building a Hosta bed and the determination of

brick, rock, or landscape design block will be determined at

that meeting on the 6th. The workday will begin at 8 AM that

morning Bring your tools, water and join in all hands will be

welcome.

*Plant Sale –

Anyone who wants to drop off extra pots for the

plant sale can do so at the extension office and if you

are in need of pots you can call there to see if pots

are available- wooden sticks will be there also to

identify your plants. Approximate Plant Sale date is

May 11th. So start your plants now and dividing and

repotting your larger ones. It will be here before you

know.

About the pineapple...

A Simple Pineapple!

The pineapple is a member of the bromeliad family. It is extremely rare that bromeliads produce edible fruit. The

pineapple is the only available edible bromeliad today. It is a multiple fruit. One pineapple is actually made up of dozens of individual floweret's that grow together to

form the entire fruit. Each scale on a pineapple is evidence of a separate flower.

Pineapples stop ripening the minute they are picked. No special way of storing them will help ripen them further. Color is relatively unimportant in determining ripeness. Choose your pineapple by smell. If it smells

fresh, tropical and sweet... it will be a good fruit. The more scales on the pineapple, the sweeter and juicier the taste.

After you cut off the top, you can plant it. It should grow much like a sweet potato will.

This delicious fruit is not only sweet and tropical; it also offers many benefits to our health. Pineapple is a remarkable fruit.

We find it enjoyable because of its lush, sweet and exotic flavor, but it may also be one of the most healthful foods available today. If we take a more detailed look at it, we will find that pineapple is valuable for easing

indigestion, arthritis or sinusitis.

The juice has an anthelmintic effect; it helps get rid of intestinal worms. Let's look at how pineapple affects other conditions.

Pineapple is high in manganese, a mineral that is critical to development of

strong bones and connective tissue. A cup of fresh pineapple will give you nearly 75% of the recommended

daily amount.

It is particularly helpful to older adults, whose bones tend to become brittle with age. Bromelain, a proteolytic enzyme, is the key to pineapple's value. Proteolytic means "breaks down protein", which

is why pineapple is known to be a digestive aid. It helps the body digest proteins more efficiently. Bromelain is also considered an effective anti-inflammatory.

Regular ingestion of at least one half cup of fresh pineapple daily is purported to relieve painful joints common to osteoarthritis. It also produces mild pain relief.

In Germany, bromelain is approved as a post-injury medication because it is

thought to reduce inflammation and swelling. Orange juice is a popular liquid for those suffering from a cold because it is high in Vitamin C. Fresh pineapple is not only high in this vitamin, but because of the Bromelain, it

has the ability to reduce mucous in the throat. If you have a cold with a productive cough, add pineapple to your diet. It is commonly used in Europe as a post-

operative measure to cut mucous after certain sinus and throat operations.

Those individuals who eat fresh pineapple daily report fewer sinus problems related to allergies. In and of itself, pineapple has a very low risk for allergies.

Pineapple is also known to discourage blood clot development. This makes it a valuable dietary addition for frequent fliers and others who may be at risk for blood clots. An old folk remedy for morning sickness is fresh

pineapple juice. it really works! Fresh juice and some nuts first thing in the morning often make a difference.

It's also good for a healthier mouth. The fresh juice discourages plaque growth.

This month’s recipe

Coleslaw with Ramen Noodles It comes to us by way of our own friends from the Laclede County extension office and the extension

Council as well as master gardeners. This coleslaw was served at the extension Council dinner the first

part of March and it was prepared by Jeani Wilson, who had got the recipe from Kim Lamberth, who

had gotten it from Dora Lee who originally had found it in a copy of cooks.com or should I say it on the

Internet. It really makes no difference the origin of this recipe as it is just one killer dish. Had there not

been so many folks attending the dinner I would probably have eaten nothing but that. But I knew that

my wife would never stand. So here’s the recipe and it is quite simple to make and extremely delicious.

1 lb. bag shredded cabbage (I used one and a half 10 oz. bags of Dole Angel Hair Coleslaw)

1 bag Oriental Flavor Ramen Noodles broken into small pieces (save seasoning packet for the dressing)

4 finely chopped green onions

Dressing:

Shake together in a small plastic container with tight fitting lid:

3 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

Salt and Pepper to taste

½ cup oil

Ramen seasoning packet

Lightly brown, separately, in a small dry skillet:

3 Tablespoons sesame seeds

1 cup slivered almonds

Toss everything together about ½ hour before serving.

Enjoy!

Spring Wildcrafting: Going for the Green(s)

Wildcrafting is defined as the gathering of plants (often greens) from their natural or “wild” habitat.

Normally this is done for culinary or medicinal purposes. Perhaps it is a throwback to our early

ancestors who were foragers as well as planters that we annually scour the outdoors to find nature’s

bounty. Wild greens have better flavor when gathered early in the spring while they are still young and

tender. March is a good month to begin harvesting from nature’s “salad bowl” if your taste buds yearn

for food that can be a bit piquant in nature.

The cardinal rule to remember when hunting wild greens is to be certain to know what you are

gathering. If in doubt about the identity of a plant, then pass it by. Missouri Wildflowers by Edgar

Denison (published by Missouri Department of Conservation) is an excellent reference for the

identification of edible wild greens; it also serves as a good field manual for the enjoyment of other

members of our wild flora. Also, remember to ask permission first if you go onto someone else’s

property. Some good places to hunt for wild greens include wood lots, old pastures and fields, along

stream banks, and even in your yard.

Although many of these plants grow along roadsides, it is best not to gather them from such places

because of the risk they may be contaminated by residue from automobile exhaust. All plants gathered

from the wild should be carefully inspected and thoroughly washed with two or more changes of water.

The inspection is needed to find and remove grass, insects and other debris. As a final precaution, when

eating wild greens for the first time start with small amounts. Allergic reactions to any new food can

happen, be it cultivated or from the wild.

The following plants are popular table fare for those who enjoy edible wild greens and are common to

Missouri.

Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenate) - After a long winter without fresh vegetables to

consume, pioneer women eagerly awaited the first appearance of toothwort (or crow’s foot). It produces

low-growing plants found primarily in rich woodlands and wooded slopes. Cutleaf toothwort has five

narrow, deeply-lobed leaves that are arranged like the toes on the foot of a crow, hence the common

name. Although the leaves of toothwort are edible, the plant’s rhizomes are what most wildcrafters

covet. They have a spicy, radish-like flavor and can be cut up fresh and added to salads, fermented (to

sweeten them) or boiled.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) - With its familiar jagged leaves, milky stems and yellow sunburst

flowers, dandelion is well-known to most of us. Indeed, many lawn owners spend quite a bit of time and

effort trying to eradicate this common plant from their lawns. Dandelion greens are especially rich in

vitamin A and iron and are best for eating during March and April. The best way to gather this plant is to

cut off the whole crown close to the soil, pluck out the flower stem and sort out any “trash”. The leaves

of this maligned weed can be mixed with other greens to make a salad that is quite a treat.

Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) - Often referred to as wild spinach, lambsquarters appears later

in the season when most other wild greens have become too mature for consumption. Its alternate

common name refers to the fact this plant does taste a lot like spinach and also is high in vitamins and

minerals. Its oval-to-lance shaped leaves are light-green above and mealy-white underneath.

Lambsquarters is a common plant in gardens, along roadsides, in waste areas or anywhere there is plenty

of sunshine and few trees. Young plants can be pinched off just above the ground, cooked and eaten

whole. Tender young leaves from older plants can be harvested and eaten all summer long.

Nettle (Urtica spp.) - Few people who have ever encountered a patch of stinging nettle will fail to

recognize the plant at a later date. In spite of its anti-social behavior (caused by formic acid contained by

its fine bristles) nettle is a popular source of springtime table fare. Its leaves are egg-shaped-to-oblong

with a heart-like base and toothed margins. Both stem and leaves are covered with the afore-mentioned

bristles. Nettle leaves are best for eating when gathered early in the spring when young (and while

wearing gloves). Young leaves lose their stinging properties when boiled and many consider nettle to be

tastier than spinach.

Shepherd’s-purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris) - This plant derives its common name because its mature,

heart-shaped seed pods that look like miniature forms of the pouches once carried by ancient shepherds.

It is a winter annual that springs to life from a prostrate rosette of deeply-cut, lance-shaped leaves.

Common to fields, country roadsides, pastures and idle land, it has long been used to pep up the taste

and flavor of less-savory greens such as lambsquarters. Shepherd’s- purse can also be used raw in tossed

salads or eaten by itself. Legend has it that old-time raftsmen who floated downstream great flotillas of

logs cut from the hills went to great lengths to find this plant along the riverbanks they past by because

of its peppery taste.

Watercress (Nasturtum officinale) - As one might guess from its name, water cress is an aquatic plant.

It often can be found floating on the surface and creeping around the banks of ponds, pasture creeks or

cold springs. Water cress has small, bright-green leaves arranged on long slender stems and is at its

succulent best from April to June. It has a delightfully pungent taste and has been used for years as a

salad or garnish for meat. Early pioneer physicians used water cress in the treatment of scurvy. The

latter stems from its high ascorbic acid (vitamin C) content; it also contains significant amounts of

vitamin A, iron, calcium and potassium.

Wild lettuce (Lactuca virosa) - This plant is common to lowland pastures, cut-over timberlands and

along the moist banks of streams. Like its relative the dandelion, it is best for eating in March and early

April. Later in the season wild lettuce becomes bitter and unpalatable. It can be identified by its smooth,

deeply-lobed, light-green leaves. When broken, leaves and stems of this plant produce a sticky, milk-like

sap. Wild lettuce can be mixed with other greens or eaten raw in a wilted lettuce salad.

Winter Cress (Barbarea vulgaris) - Commonly called “creasies” in days-of-old, winter (or upland)

cress is a superb potherb that has been picked and eaten for generations. It is so popular that commercial

canning companies have been known to market it as a canned vegetable. Common in fields, gardens and

waste places, winter cress starts from seed late in the summer and develops a rosette of dark green, five-

lobed leaves in the fall. It grows remarkable well during warm periods of winter and is ready for harvest

and eating in March. Mature winter cress is rather bitter; this problem can be avoided by gathering it

when young or mixing it with other greens.

Readers of this article should note that pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) is not included on the

preceding list of wild greens even though many old timers relished poke “salid”. Because of toxic

compounds contained in all parts of this plant we cannot include it on our list of plants acceptable for

wildcrafting and human consumption. Therefore, readers are urged to avoid it.

To prepare wild green the “old-fashioned” way simply place them in a sauce pan with a little water, salt

to taste and cook until tender. Wild greens should not be over-cooked or cooked in a lot of water for fear

of losing vitamins and minerals. The bitterness of some greens such as winter cress and dandelion can be

offset by cooking them with milder plants. Greens can also be seasoned with bacon drippings or a dash

of vinegar or lemon juice for added taste. Wild greens blend well with any menu but (arguably) go best

with a “working man’s” meal of soup beans, fried potatoes, corn bread and raw onions. Undoubtedly,

such a dinner sustained many a mountain farmer of the past during long springtime days of clearing

land, walking behind a horse-drawn plow and putting in a new crop.

DISCLAIMER: The information provided in this article is designed to provide helpful insight on the

subject discussed. The author is not responsible for any adverse reactions that might be experienced

from the consumption of edible wild greens or plants mistaken to be edible wild greens.

Laclede County Extension Council Annual Dinner 2013

Front Row – Bob Smith, Abbey Foreman, Belinda Clark, Jeanni Wilson, LaRita Pope, Amy Cogdill.

Back Row, Matt Lambeth, Sarah DuBose, Tammy McKimmey, Tood, Jeffy OQuinn and Aaron Windsor.

In the May edition There will be much more information about Herbs.

How to grown them and the main use of them. Also we will also feature tips on Tomatoes as well as

discussion mulches and how to use them.

This is the 1906 S. M. Isbell Seed Catalogue of Farm and Garden Seeds. Check out

the quantities and prices of the seed on this cover. It has been awhile. Enjoy.

Our April Meeting is at Marilyn’s Garden Center

On N. 5th

Hwy at 6:30

A great program is planned – plan on being there.

April Gardening Calendar

Ornamentals

Weeks 1-4: Study your landscape for gaps that could be nicely filled with bulbs. Mark these spots

carefully and make a note to order bulbs next August.

Weeks 1-4: Enjoy, but do not disturb the many wildflowers blooming in woodlands throughout Missouri.

Weeks 1-4: When buying bedding plants, choose compact, bushy plants that have not begun to flower.

Weeks 1-3: When crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals may be transplanted outdoors.

Weeks 1-3: Fertilize established roses once new growth is 2 inches long. Use a balanced formulation.

Begin spraying to control black spot disease.

Weeks 1-2: Examine shrubs for winter injury. Prune all dead and weakened wood.

Week 1: Groundcovers can be mowed to remove winter burn and tidy plants up. Raise mowers to their

highest settings. Fertilize and water to encourage rapid regrowth.

Week 1: Shrubs and trees best planted or transplanted in spring, rather than fall, include butterfly bush,

dogwood, rose of Sharon, black gum (Nyssa), vitex, red bud, magnolia, tulip poplar, birch, ginkgo,

hawthorn and most oaks.

Week 1: Winter mulches should be removed from roses. Complete pruning promptly. Remove only dead

wood from climbers at this time. Cultivate lightly, working in some compost or other organic matter.

Weeks 2-4: Look for flowering dogwoods in bloom.

Weeks 2-4: Break off rims from peat pots when transplanting seedlings, otherwise they can act as a wick

to draw moisture away from the roots.

Weeks 2-3: Transplant Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) after bloom, but before the foliage

disappears.

Weeks 3-4: Do not prune boxwoods before April 15.

Weeks 3-4: Evergreen and deciduous hedges may be sheared. Prune the top narrower than the base so

sunlight will reach the lower limbs.

Weeks 3-4: Oaks and hickories bloom.

Weeks 3-4: Easter lilies past blooming can be planted outdoors. Set the bulbs 2 to 3 inches deeper than

they grew in the pot. Mulch well if frost occurs.

Weeks 3-4: Apply controls for holly leaf miner when the new leaves are just beginning to grow.

Weeks 3-4: Balloon flower (Platycodon), hardy hibiscus, gasplant (Dictamnus albus) and some lilies are

slow starters in the spring garden. Cultivate carefully to avoid injury to these tardy growers.

Week 4: Prune spring flowering ornamentals after they finish blooming.

Week 4: Begin planting out summer bulbs such as caladiums, gladioli and acidanthera at 2 week

intervals.

Lawns

Weeks 1-4: Start mowing cool season grasses at recommended heights. For complete details, refer to

University Extension Guide #6705, Cool Season Grasses.

Weeks 1-2: Topdress low spots and finish overseeding thin or bare patches.

Weeks 1-2: Aerate turf if thatch is heavy or if soil is compacted.

Weeks 1-2: Apply crabgrass preventers before April 15. Do not apply to areas that will be seeded.

Vegetables

Weeks 1-3: Finish transplanting broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower plants into the

garden. High phosphorous fertilizers help get transplants off to a quick start.

Weeks 1-2: Plants started indoors should be hardened off outdoors in cold frames before being

transplanted into the garden.

Weeks 1-2: Start cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash, and watermelon seeds indoors in peat pots.

Weeks 1-2: Finish sowing seeds of all cool-season vegetables not yet planted.

Weeks 1-2: Plastic films can be used to preheat the soil where warm season vegetables are to be grown.

Weeks 1-2: Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin.

Weeks 2-4: Handpick and destroy asparagus beetles.

Weeks 2-4: Keep your hoe sharp! Don't allow weeds to get an early start in your garden.

Weeks 2-4: Flower stalks should be removed from rhubarb plants, if they develop.

Weeks 2-4: Try an early sowing of warm-season crops such as green beans, summer squash, sweet corn,

New Zealand spinach and cucumbers.

Weeks 2-3: Thin out crowded seedlings from early plantings of cool season crops such as beets, carrots,

lettuce, onions and radish.

Weeks 2-3: Sow seeds of luffa and hard-shell gourds indoors in peat pots. Soak seeds overnight before

planting.

Weeks 2-3: Make succession sowings of cool-season crops.

Weeks 3-4: Begin planting lima beans, cucumbers, melons, okra and watermelons.

Weeks 3-4: Begin setting out transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and sweet potatoes.

Fruits

Weeks 1-4: Blemish-free fruits unmarred by insect or disease injury can rarely be produced without

relying on regular applications of insecticides and fungicides For special information, consult University

Extension Guide Sheet #G6010, Home Fruit Spray Schedule.

Weeks 1-2: Wooden clothespins make useful spreaders for training young fruits limbs. Place pins

between the trunk and branch to force limbs outward at a 60 degree angle from the trunk.

Weeks 1-2: A white interior latex paint may be brushed on the trunks of newly planted fruit trees to

prevent sunburn. This will gradually weather off in time.

Weeks 1-2: Stink bugs and tarnished plant bugs become active on peaches.

Weeks 1-2: Leaf rollers are active on apple trees. Control as needed.

Weeks 1-2: Prune peaches and nectarines now.

Week 1: Plant bare-root or potted fruit trees as soon as the soil can be worked.

Week 1: Remove tree wraps from fruit trees now.

Weeks 2-4: Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are

blooming.

Week 2: Destroy or prune off webs of eastern tent caterpillars. "B.t." (Dipel) is a safe biological spray.

Weeks 3-4: Orange, jelly-like galls on cedar trees spread rust diseases to apples, crabapples and

hawthorns.

Weeks 3-4: Begin sprays for fire-blight susceptible apples and pears using an agricultural streptomycin.

Week 4: Spider mites and codling moths become active on apples.

Miscellaneous

Weeks 1-2: Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and

straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.

Weeks 1-2: Look for morel mushrooms when lilacs bloom and the forest floor turns green.

Week 1: Mount a rain gauge on a post near the garden to keep track of precipitation so you can tell when

to water. Most gardens need about 1 inch of rain per week between April and September.

Weeks 2-4: Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.

Weeks 3-4: Honeybees are swarming. Notify a local beekeeper to find a new home for these beneficial

insects.

Week 4: Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems help you save water and money.

Week 4: Hummingbirds return from their winter home in Central America.

Week 4: Wasp and hornet queens begin nesting.

Gardening Calendar supplied by the staff of the William T. Kemper Center for Home Gardening located at the

Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis, Missouri. (www.GardeningHelp.org)

Presented by Master Gardeners of Greene County

Potting Shed University Invest In Gardening Skills for Life

Mondays | March - May | 6:30-7:30 p.m.

A series of 12 diverse garden topics for you to hone your skills to become a better gardener for years to come.

April 8 - Miniature Wetlands, Make a Rain Garden

Jan Miller, Greater Ozarks Audubon Society

The benefits of rain gardens run deep. Simple to implement and attractive to your landscape,

native plant rain gardens increase your property values as you attract birds, butterflies, and beneficial insects.

April 15 - Perennials to Enjoy for Years to Come

Kathryn Kufahl, Master Gardeners of the Ozarks

Perennials are the basis of most gardens. Whether you seek a long season of bloom or minimal

maintenance, discover tips for finding and choosing the best varieties of perennial plants you’re going to love.

April 22 - Eliminate Invasive Plants of the Ozarks

Linda S. Ellis, Master Naturalist and Nature Artist

Learn how to determine invasive species. Learn which problem species are threatening our area

how to control them without herbicides. Find out which plant recently discovered in our area you should watch out for.

April 29 - Learn to Identify Common Garden Insect Pests

Dr. Thomas J. Riley, Entomologist

Garden pests are a natural part of organic gardening. Learn how to identify and control our most common garden insect pests. Do you have an insect you would like to identify? Bring it with you!

Upcoming training sessions presented by our friends to the west of us in Springfield.

$5/person per class | Pay at the Door Questions? Contact Mary Ann

417-413-4834 | greenegardeners@gmail.com

The True History Of Grits What Are Grits?

Nobody knows. Some folks believe grits are grown on bushes and are harvested by midgets by shaking the

bushes after spreading sheets around them. Many people feel that grits are made from ground up bits of white

corn.

These are obviously lies spread by Communists and terrorists. Nothing as good as Grits can be made from corn.

The most recent research suggests that the mysterious Manna that God rained down upon the Israelites during

their time in the Sinai Desert was most likely Grits. Critics disagree, stating that there is no record of biscuits,

butter, salt, and red eye gravy raining down from the sky, and that God would not punish his people by forcing

them to eat Grits without these key ingredients.

How Grits Are Formed:

Grits are formed deep underground under intense heat and pressure. It takes over 1000 years to form a single

Grit. Most of the world's grit mines are in the South, and are guarded day and night by armed guards and pit bull

dogs. Harvesting the Grit is a dangerous occupation, and many Grit miners lose their lives each year so that Grits

can continue to be served morning after morning for breakfast (not that having Grits for dinner and supper is out

of the question).

Yankees have attempted to create synthetic Grits. They call it Cream of Wheat. As far as we can tell, the key

ingredients of Cream of Wheat are Elmer's Glue and shredded Styrofoam. These synthetic grits have also been

shown to cause nausea, and may leave you unable to have children.

Historical Grits:

As we mentioned earlier, the first known mention of Grits was by the Ancient Israelites in the Sinai Desert .

After that, Grits were not heard from for another 1000 years. Experts feel that Grits were used during this time

only during secret religious ceremonies, and were kept from the public due to their rarity.

The next mention of Grits was found amidst the ruins of the ancient city of Pompeii in a woman's personal diary.

The woman's name was Herculaneum Jemimaneus (Aunt Jemima to her friends.)

The 10 Commandments of Grits I. Thou shalt not put syrup on thy Grits

II. Thou shalt not eat thy Grits with a spoon or knife

III. Thou shalt not eat Cream of Wheat and call it Grits, for this is blasphemy ..

IV. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's Grits.

V. Thou shalt use only salt, butter, and red-eye gravy as toppings for thy Grits.

VI Thou shalt not eat Instant Grits.

VII. Thou shalt not put ketchup on thy Grits.

VIII. Thou shalt not put margarine on thy Grits.

IX. Thou shalt not eat toast with thy Grits, only biscuits made from scratch.

X. Thou shalt eat grits on the Sabbath for this is manna from heaven.

How to Cook Grits:

For one serving of Grits:

Boil 1.5 cups of water with salt and a little butter. [Use milk and they are creamier!)

Add 5 Tbsp of Grits.

Reduce to a simmer and allow the Grits to soak up all the water.

When a pencil stuck into the grits stands alone, it is done. That's all there is to cooking grits.

How to make red eye gravy

Fry salt cured country ham in cast iron pan. Remove the ham when done and add coffee to the gravy and simmer

for several minutes. Great on grits and biscuits.

How to Eat Grits:

Immediately after removing your grits from the stove top, add a generous portion of butter or red eye gravy

(WARNING: Do NOT use low-fat butter.) The butter should cause the Grits to turn a wondrous shade of yellow.

(Hold a banana or a yellow rain slicker next to your Grits; if the colors match, you have the correct amount of

butter.)

In lieu of butter, pour a generous helping of red eye gravy on your grits. Be sure to pour enough to have some

left for sopping up with your biscuits. Never, ever substitute canned or store bought biscuits for the real thing

because they cause cancer, rotten teeth and impotence.

Next, add salt. (NOTICE: The correct ration of Grit to Salt is 10:1 Therefore, for every 10 grits, you should have

1 grain of salt.)

Now begin eating your grits. Always use a fork, never a spoon. Your grits should be thick enough so they do not

run through the tines of the fork.

The correct beverages to serve with Grits is black coffee. (DO NOT use cream or, heaven forbid, Skim Milk)

Your grits should never be eaten in a bowl because Yankees will think it's cream of wheat.

Ways to Eat Leftover Grits:

(Leftover grits are extremely rare)

Spread them in the bottom of a casserole dish,

Cover and place them in the refrigerator overnight.

The Grits will congeal into a gelatinous mass.

Next morning, slice the Grits into squares and fry them in 1/2" of cooking oil and butter until they turn a golden

brown.

Many people are tempted to pour syrup onto Grits served this way. This is, of course, unacceptable.

BLESSING BEFORE EATING GRITS

May the Lord bless these grits,

May no Yankee ever get the recipe,

May I eat grits every day while living,

And may I die while eating grits.

AMEN

Potato: Oft-maligned; Seldom Appreciated

For those who might have resolved to lose a bit of weight, potato (most likely) was one of the first foods

eliminated from their diet. After all, everyone knows that “potatoes are fattening”. Fortunately, such is

not the case. An eight ounce potato (boiled or baked) contains only 100 calories. It is the way we

prepare or embellish potatoes that packs on the calories. High in carbohydrates but low in fat, potatoes

contains significant amounts of vitamin C and other essential nutrients, making them somewhat of a

“health food”. Indeed, it has been speculated by some that humans could survive on a diet that included

only potatoes and milk. April is a popular month for potato planting in Missouri and a good opportunity

to take a closer look at this valuable food

staple that (arguably) does not get the

respect it deserves.

Potato (Solanum tuberosum) is a member of

the Solananceae, or Nightshade, family and

native to the Andean region of South

America. It was known to be cultivated by

the Incas as many as 4000 years ago. There

are more than 150 wild species of potato

most of which contain significant levels of a

glycoalkaloid called solanine, a bitter-

tasting, toxic compound associated with the

members of the Solananceae family. Today,

solanine content still is a concern when

developing new potato cultivars.

The Spanish explorer de Leon probably was

responsible for introducing potato to Spain

from the New World. From there, it was introduced to England and Italy in 1585, to Belgium, Germany

and Austria around 1887 and to France around the turn of the 17th century. Wherever it went it was slow

to be accepted as a food source because of its association with the poor and the fear that it might be

poisonous or cause diseases such as leprosy.

The potato is said to have found its way to Ireland thanks to a Spanish ship carrying potatoes that

wrecked off the Irish coast in 1588. Potato thrived in Ireland and, in short order, the Irish became greatly

dependent on the potato as food and usually consumed it at every meal. It was estimated that an average

Irish laborer of the 1800s consumed 14 pounds of potatoes daily. This dependence on a single source of

food was a primary reason for the Great Potato Famine of the 1840s that occurred when late blight

(Phytophthora infestans) destroyed most of Ireland’s potato crop for several years in succession. It is

estimated that Ireland lost 1.5 million people to starvation and related illness during the famine, cutting

the country’s population in half through starvation and emigration.

The potato was first introduced into what is now the United States in 1621. It was introduced on several

other occasions throughout the 17th century but was slow to gain acceptance. Indeed, as late as the mid-

1800s most people considered potatoes more fit for animal than human consumption. A quote from the

Farmer’s Manual at that time stated that potatoes should “be grown near the hog pens as a convenience

towards feeding the hogs”. The potato became more accepted as a human food source toward the latter

half of the 1800s and it was during that period that vast improvements in potatoes were made in both

productivity and table quality. Today, the United States produces nearly 46 billion pounds of potatoes

and the average American consumes about 140 pounds of them each year.

Perhaps the primary challenge to successful potato production in Missouri revolves around the weather.

Potato is a cool-season crop that has an optimum (air) temperature for tuber formation of 78 degrees F.

Missouri is notorious for its quick transitions from springtime to hot summer temperatures. As a result,

gardeners often plant their potatoes early in an attempt to subject them to cooler temperatures for a

longer period of time. Unfortunately, early planting can lead to crop loss from late spring freezes or seed

piece decay due to wet, cool soil. Waiting to plant until soil temperatures warm to 50 degrees F is

advisable.

Potato prefers a sunny location in a well-drained garden loam high in organic matter. The ideal soil pH

is relatively low (5.3-6.0), since scab, a troublesome disease of potato, favors soil with a high pH. Areas

to be planted in potato should be tilled 8 to 12 inches deep. After tilling, level the soil so that furrows

can be made for planting.

Liberal amounts of fertilizer are required for good potato yields. Soil testing prior to planting will help to

determine the amount of fertilizer to be added. Normally, application of about 2-3 pounds per 100

square feet of a fertilizer with higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen (e.g. 5-10-10)

is sufficient initially. Banding the fertilizer about 6 inches deep and 2 to 3 on either side where the seed

pieces will be placed is helpful. Later, when tubers begin to form, side-dressing once or twice with a

garden fertilizer at the rate of about 1 pound per 25 feet of row will help boost yields.

Genetically, potato is a tetraploid and, as such, is highly sterile. Therefore, instead of planting seeds,

seed pieces are used to start potato. Seed pieces are made by dividing certified (disease free) potato

tubers so that each piece has at least two “eyes” (dormant nodes) remaining. It is best to cut seed pieces

the day prior to planting to allow cut surfaces to dry. Plant the seed pieces 9 to 12 inches apart in

shallow trenches about four inches deep and cover with an inch or two of soil. Rows should be spaced

28 to 34 inches apart.

After potato plants emerge, mulching with an organic form of mulch will help to control weeds,

conserve moisture and cool the soil. If natural rainfall is insufficient, potato should be irrigated to

provide uniform moisture. Erratic moisture supply often results in undesirable, “knobby” tuber growth.

Maximum water use occurs during active plant growth and early tuber development. The amount of

water supplied should be reduced when plants begin to die back in order to prevent tubers from

decaying.

Major insect pests of potato include Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, leafhoppers and aphids.

Wireworms, white grubs and other soil insects can damage potato tubers. These insects are most likely

to occur if sod was tuned under before planting the area. Scab, early blight and late blight can be

problematic foliar diseases. Fortunately, the climate in Missouri is not conducive for the latter to

develop on a regular basis. If weed control is necessary, it should be accomplished by shallow

cultivation since deep cultivation may injure tubers.

Unless mulch has been applied, when plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, begin to mound soil around the bases

of the plants to form a ridge or hill. By the end of the production season, the ridges should be 4 to 5

inches high. This practice not only helps to control weeds but is necessary to prevent greening of

shallow tubers. Green skins are caused by exposing potato tubers to light. Since the green portion tends

to develop the previously-mentioned toxin solanine, it should be cut off before cooking, or (better)

green-skinned potatoes should be discarded totally.

New potatoes can be harvested as soon as they reach a useable size. Potatoes destined for storage should

be dug about two weeks after the plants have naturally died back. This allows the skins to mature and

reduces peeling and bruising during harvest. The latter tends to lead to storage rot. Place tubers in a dark

place immediately after harvesting. As previously mentioned, tubers exposed to sun (and high

temperatures) tend to turn green.

Potatoes can be stored for several months if the tubers are cured properly. The latter involves placing

them in a dark place for about 10 days at a temperature of from 60 to 65 degrees F and a relative

humidity of at least 85 percent. After the tubers are cured, store them in a cool (40 to 45 degrees F), dark

location with high relative humidity. Those having the luxury of an extra refrigerator can store potatoes

for many months. However, under refrigerated storage potato tubers tend to convert their starch into

sugar, decreasing their table quality. This can be reversed by taking potatoes out of refrigerated storage

several weeks before they are used.

Editor’s Note - It is still not too late to get this year’s crop out – I like to dig a furor about 10 inches

deep and place my seed potatoes in the bottom and the as they grow continue to fill them with leaf

mulch. The when it comes time to harvest them or to gravel a few new ones for a pot of green beans it

is not as hard to get them out.

Another trick I have tried is “Tire” Potatoes - place an old tire on some plowed up ground then in the

center of the tire place your seeds. As they grow just continue to fill the tire with leaf mulch. Once they

brown about the first tire place another one. Just keep doing this for as high as you wish. When you stop

at around 4 or 5 feet the potato vine will top out and die out when the potatoes are ready. Then to

harvest, just turn your tires over and pick up the nice clean potatoes and store them.

In the May issue we will talk about Sweet Potatoes.

And They Said It Was Spring!

Laclede County Extension Council Officers for 2013 Tony Wood, Matt Lambeth (4-H Youth Representative), Sarah DuBose (Treasurer), Riki Allison, Bob Smith (Vice Chair), LaRita Pope (Chair), Amy Cogdill, Belinda Clark(Secretary) and Craig Evans

So goes an old Chinese proverb: If you want to be happy for a few hours get drunk.

If you want to be happy for a weekend, get married

If you want to be happy for a week, barbecue a pig

If you want to be happy all you like long. Become a gardener.