3 of 4. Making mineral&coloured makeup

Plush Folly Ltd Making Mineral Makeup Module 3

Making Mineral & Coloured Makeup

A Distance Learning Course

Module 3

The products you make and the ingredients you use during this course are for personal use only and must not be sold commercially. If you intend to make and sell cosmetic products,

your product formulation must be certified by a cosmetic chemist and conform to the cosmetic regulations laid out in the DTI guide. See our EU Cosmetic Legislation workshop or

distance learning course for more details.

Plush Folly cannot be held responsible for any adverse reactions caused by handling and/or using the ingredients. As with all new products, please do a patch test if you are unsure of

suitability for your skin.

Plush Folly Ltd


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Module Three 1 Working with other pigments, dyes and clays 2 Suitability of pigment types in makeup products worldwide 3 Packaging your makeup products 4 Eye liner / mascara ingredients 5 Recipes making mascara and eye liner

1 Working with other pigments and clays We have discussed using micas and oxides in our coloured cosmetics, but there are several other coloured pigments that can be used as well. The oxides are from the earths crust and hence have muted, earthy tones. If you want to experiment with brighter colours youll need to venture away from the oxides. Ultramarines (pigment) Ultramarines are a family of pigment colours that include shades of blue, pink, mauve, purple and violet. They are processed from sodium, aluminium, silicate and sulphate. The initial colour produced during this process is blue further oxidisation will eventually turn it to pink morphing through various blue/purple/pink shades. Ultramarines are not approved for use in lip colours. Ferric ferrocyanide (pigment) Ferric ferrocyanide also known as Berlin blue, Iron blue, Cyanine and Prussian blue is an inorganic pigment that is a dark blue colour. Whilst derived from irons, it is a synthetic cosmetic colour used extensively in many makeup products. Ferric ferrocyanide is not approved for lip colours. It is not stable in alkali conditions (such as traditional soap), but is perfectly acceptable in cosmetics to be applied to the skin such as the cheeks and eye area. Manganese violet (pigment) Manganese violet is another synthetic pigment colour. It is made by reacting phosphoric acid, ammonium dihydrogen orthophosphate and manganese dioxide to get a rather surprising but beautiful clean, bright range of magenta colours (red to blue shades) suitable for use in makeup products. Manganese violet is approved for use in all cosmetic products.


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Note: Whilst manganese violets and Prussian blue are wonderful shades of colour, they are not stable in alkali conditions and therefore not suitable as a colouring for traditional lye soap. For those of you planning to use your oxides and ultramarines in traditional soap, these are stable and will remain true. Mica can be used but as soap is a solid, the shimmering beauty of mica will be lost. Naming conventions for pigments Depending on whether you are buying or using colours in the EU or in the USA, the colours will be referred to by different names. Use the chart below to help you recognise how the colours will be identified. Colour CI Number FD&C Name Colour Notes

Ultramarine blue

CI77007 Ultramarine

Ultramarines share the same CI number regardless of the shade of ultramarine. The colour of the ultramarine can be controlled by oxidisation EU/FDA - Not permitted in lip colours

Ultramarine pink

CI77007 Ultramarine

Ultramarine mauve

CI77007 Ultramarine

Manganese violet CI77742

Manganese violet

Blue to red shades

Ferric ferrocyanide

CI77510 Ferric ferrocyanide or Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide

Also known as Prussian blue or iron blue FDA - Not permitted in lip colours

Dyes Dyes are soluble in either water or oil, they do not suspend in the liquids like pigments, but dissolve in, and will give colour to, the liquid. Lakes Lakes are pigments and dyes that have been bonded onto a substrate such as sodium, potassium, alumina hydrate, zirconium or calcium strontium which will make it insoluble. If a colour is insoluble it will not dissolve in water or bleed / morph into other colours. This is especially useful for cosmetics where the colour needs to stay true and not (definitely not) stain the skin.


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Lakes can be very intense colours enabling you to have for example a very bright red lipstick without having to add too much of the colouring. The convention for naming lakes differs in the EU to in the USA or in Japan. To recap, in America, cosmetic colours that are considered safe for use in cosmetics are referred to as FD&C colours (Food, Drink & Cosmetics). These are listed on labels as follows:

FD&C suitable for food, drugs and cosmetics

D&C suitable for cosmetics and for coating drugs/pills, but not acceptable for colouring food

Ext. D&C colours suitable for externally applied drugs and for cosmetics that do not come into contact with mucous membranes (ie. lip products).

In addition to the letters, the colour coding is extended by including the type of colour and a reference to the shade. For example, a red pigment which would be labelled as CI16035 on European cosmetic products would be labelled as FD&C Red 40 Lake on an American cosmetic product. Note that the tag FD&C denotes that this is also used as a food colouring and is suitable for medicines.

It is a regulatory requirement in the USA markets that all cosmetic colours conform to standard purity specifications. Each separate batch of organic colours must be certified individually before they can be sold for use in cosmetic products.

In the EU a particular bright turquoise colour would be listed as CI42090 whereas in the USA it would be listed as FD&C Blue No. 1 aluminium lake. This tells us that the substrate is aluminium. However, the FDA regulations have changed recently and the substrate no longer needs to be listed and you may well see this listed as FD&C blue 1.

In Japan the naming convention is different again. The CI16035 FD&C Red 40 Lake is not approved for use and the CI42090 blue colour is I Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake.

2 Suitability of pigment types in makeup products worldwide Although our skin is pretty similar worldwide, there are countrywide regulations that allow or permit the use of certain colourings in cosmetics. Whilst some colours are permitted, the use of them in eye or lip areas is further regulated. Whilst the list of lakes is long, I have listed those here that you are likely to come across when sourcing your colours with which to make cosmetics.


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Note that there are only six dyes permitted for use in the eye area. These are highlighted in bold and are commented on in the notes area. The colour ingredients in the shaded blue box have already been discussed in previous sections of this course.

EU colour name

FDA colour name

Japan colour name

Colour Notes NOT approved for use on eyes unless

specified Approved for use on lips unless specified

(Colour) oxides

(colour) oxides

(colour name) oxide of iron

See previous chart

Permitted for eye area and lips

Ultramarines CI77007

(Colour) ultramarine

Ultramarine (colour)

See previous chart

Not permitted for use on lips Permitted for eye area

Manganese violets CI77742

Manganese violet

Ammonium Manganese Pyrophosphate

See previous chart

Permitted for eye area

Ferric Ferrocyanide CI77510

Ferric Ferrocyanide

Ferric Ferrocyanide

See previous chart

Not permitted for use on lips Permitted for eye area

CI 12085 D&C Red No. 36

Not listed

Maximum use for lips 3%

CI 12490 Red No 5 Not listed

CI 15850 D&C Red No. 6

Red No.201

CI 15850 D&C Red No. 7

Red No.202

CI 15985 FD&C Yellow No. 6

Yellow No.5

CI 16035 FD&C Red No. 40

Not listed



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EU colour name

FDA colour name

Japan colour name



CI 17200 D&C Red No. 33

Red No.227

CI 19140 FD&C Yellow No. 5

Yellow No.4


CI 42053 FD&C Green No. 3

Green No.3

CI 42090 FD&C Blue No. 1

Blue No.1


CI 45370 D&C Orange No. 5

Orange No.201

CI 45380 D&C Red No. 21

Red No.223

CI 45380 D&C Red No. 22

Red No.230-1

CI 45410 D&C Red No. 27

Red No.218

CI 45410 D&C Red No. 28

Red No.104-1

CI 47005 D&C Yellow No. 10

Yellow No.203

CI 61570 D&C Green No. 5

Green No.201



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EU colour name

FDA colour name

Japan colour name



CI 73360 D&C Red No. 30

Red No.226

CI 77266 D&C Black No. 2

Not listed


CI 77267 D&C Black No. 3

Not listed


3 Packaging your makeup products This will be one of the most frustrating issues you have in your makeup ventures sourcing the packaging easily and in small quantities. As a supplier of makeup packaging, we find it difficult to find a reliable local (UK) wholesale supplier that can sell to us in quantities of 1,000 units rather than 60,000+ units and often have to source our containers from overseas suppliers which of course incur additional shipping costs and taxes. If you plan to make makeup, you will require packaging that is suitable for the individual products. Eye Products This is probably one of the easiest type of container to source, depending on the style of eye product you intend to make. Cream / solid / pressed eye shadow most commercial suppliers sell their cream or solid eye shadows in pots that contain between 5 - 12g of the eye shadow product. Whilst the containers may look as though they contain much more than this quantity you will often find that the bit that actually contains the eye shadow is an insert in a larger container. Solid eye shadows are often pressed into a very shallow tin and the tin is then inserted and fixed into the matching container. These tins are available from TKB trading (see suppliers list) along with the matching containers that the tins can be fixed to using a magnet or glue.


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You do not have to use tin inserts the product can be placed/poured directly into the container and any small lidded container will do. If the product is hot when pouring (creamed eye shadow) then please make sure that your container is heatproof. We like the 5g stacking pots. They are heatproof so you can pour hot ingredients directly into the pot and they allow you to have three or four colours available in one set. Powder eye shadow powder eye shadow can also be stored in small containers and are usually sold in 3-10g pots (powder eye shadow is lighter than cream or pressed eye shadows). Powder eye shadows can be very messy as the powder often has a tendency to spill out of the pot. Sifter pots will prevent spillage and also help to control the amount of eye shadow you pick up on the applicator. Sifter pots are regular lidded pots that have a plastic disc inserted into the neck of the pot. The disc has small perforations which allow the powder to be shaken https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0/?ui=2&ik=d027164733&view=att&th=1361086843cbd4d4&disp=zipout, whilst reducing the possibility of spillage. Eye liner this is going to be your first tricky product to pack. Ideally an eye liner should be packed into some kind of twist up pencil that allows the eye liner to be twisted up for use and down for storage. However, these are still considered to be specialist packaging products and you may find yourself being quoted for 1,000s of units when enquiring about the minimum order quantities. A more likely alternative is an empty wooden pencil chassis into which you pour your eyeliner. If you can imagine how thin the hole that accommodates the eye liner is, you can probably also imagine some issues you may have when pouring. Our method is as follows: First make sure that you have blocked one end of the pencil so that the eye liner doesnt just pour out of the bottom end. We use a little aluminium foil wrapped around one end of the pencil as a seal. The eyeliner needs to be liquid when pouring but obviously it cant remain liquid (liquid eyeliner needs to be packed in a bottle) so therefore it will be in its melted form but wanting to set so you will need to work quickly. If you have a very steady hand you may be able to pour directly from the heatproof container (that you melted the ingredients in) into the pencil. If you dont trust yourself to pour smoothly, then we recommend that you use a funnel. The end of the funnel will need to be inserted into the pencil to minimise mess so use the tiniest funnel you can find but make sure that it doesnt get blocked up with the eyeliner. If you dont have a funnel small enough, a pipette may work for you. The more faffing around you do at this stage, the hotter your eye liner will need to be to make sure that it


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doesnt start to set whilst you are mid-transfer. If it does, it will need to go back on the heat. Once the pencil has been successfully filled, you will need to keep it upright while the eyeliner sets. Once the eyeliner has set, put the pencil in the fridge to make sure that it has set as solid as possible. Once solid, use a pencil sharpener to shave away the top of the pencil, revealing enough eyeliner to make application easy. Remember to remove the aluminium foil from the end of your pencil when the eyeliner has set. Tip: to prevent the eyeliner from setting in the pencil too soon (ie. setting as soon as it has poured causing a blockage rather than travelling down to the bottom of the pencil) heat your pencil in the microwave so that the wood is warm enough to prevent the eye liner from setting whilst pouring. Liquid eyeliner can be poured directly from the mixing container into the container. The lid of the container will usually have a very fine brush insert which acts as the applicator. Always wait until the product is cool before putting the lid on. If you cannot easily get hold of the eyeliner pencils, the eyeliner can be packaged into small lidded containers and applied with a separate eyeliner brush.

Mascara this is typically poured as a liquid into a container, usually a tube into which the brush is inserted. Mascara tubes have one important piece of packaging that is vital for the easy application of mascara and this is the little plug insert that fits snugly into the neck of the container. The plug insert wipes excess mascara off the brush and back into the tube which makes sure that you havent overloaded the brush with the product.

Although you probably wont have much choice when it comes to the style of brush, there are many makeup companies that say that the style of brush is the secret to applying your mascara well. You can get bristle brushes, plastic brushes, combs, plastic spikes, straight, curved, rounded the list is endless but they all have the same purpose which is to apply mascara to every single eyelash from root to tip without causing clumping or mess. In the event that you are unable to source suitable mascara tubes, it is possible to place your mascara product in a pot and then use a disposable mascara brush to apply it to your eyelashes. This works better with a solid cake of mascara rather than a liquid mascara as you can control the volume of mascara being picked up onto the brush more easily. Lip Products There are a range of specialist containers available for your lip products but luckily you can always apply the lip gloss/balm/lipstick using a simply lip brush if you cannot source the specialist containers.


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Lipstick as discussed in module 1, a lipstick is usually packaged in a twist up chassis which contains a bullet moulded lipstick. In order to package your lipsticks in the twist up chassis, you will also need to have a supply of bullet moulds in which to set your lipstick. Alternatives to the twist up bullet lipstick containers include hot pour containers which twist or push up rather like a lip balm container. Twist up lip balm containers can be found on many suppliers websites but sadly they dont look as attractive as the metallic, mirrored or colourer twist up bullet lipstick containers. If you are lucky, youll be able to find better looking twist up lipstick containers that allow you to pour your hot molten lip product directly into the container. If you find a source of these, let me know!

Lip gloss as discussed in module 1, the style of lip gloss container you need is determined not only by what you think looks appealing, but by the style of the lip gloss too. A runny lip gloss will need to be packaged in a container with a lid. Our preference is to use the tubes with the dip in sponge tip (or brush) applicator attached to the lid. A slightly thicker lip gloss can successfully be packaged in a squeezy tube and an even thicker (or solid) lip gloss can be packaged in a lidded container.

Lip liner lip liner can be packaged in exactly the same way as eye liner (see notes earlier in this section). Face products Face makeup tends to be available in larger sizes than eye and lip products and therefore the packaging is usually easier to find. Blusher - blusher can be in many different forms cream, powder or pressed and can be packaged in the same way as eye shadows but in larger containers. Foundation foundation is usually in liquid, powder or pressed powder form. Liquid foundation can be packaged in bottles or better still, in airless pumps. Airless pumps allow you to dispense the foundation without your fingers, hands or the air coming into contact with the


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liquid in the container. This keeps the foundation fresher and reduces the risk of contamination due to dirt transferring from your hands. If you dont have an airless pump, the liquid foundation can be packaged in a bottle and dispensed directly onto fingers before being applied to your face. Pressed powders and cream foundation are simply a larger volume of pressed or cream eye shadows (but flesh coloured) and work well when packaged in wide but shallow containers. These are typically applied with a (very) clean finger, sponge or brush. Powder foundation this is far less messy if packaged in a sifter jar as, like the powder eye shadows or blushers, can get very messy. Specialist containers are available which have the powder stored in a container that also accommodates the applicator brush. Some dispensers allow you to remove the brush in

order to dip it into the powder, others allow a measured amount of powder to be transferred onto the brush whilst it is packaged. To apply powder makeup to your face you will need a large brush that can be loaded with the mineral makeup product. The brush needs to be soft enough to feel good on your skin, but stiff enough to be able to hold the product and work it across and into the skin. The most popular brush for this application is a kabuki brush, picture here.

Primer Although not technically a makeup product, a primer can help create a smoother skin on which to apply your foundation makeup. This is discussed further in module 4, but by far the most effective method of storing and dispensing your primer is via an airless pump which helps keep the product fresh but can also help dispense measured quantities of the primer.

4 Eye liner / mascara ingredients

Ingredients used in mascara and eyeliner recipes Beeswax

Nourishing, antibacterial and will add shine to your product. Thickens. Use jojoba or olive wax as a vegan alternative.

Carnauba wax The hardest wax of all used to prevent the product from softening in high temperatures


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Emulsifying wax A processed wax used to bind and hold oils and waters. Emulsifying wax (e-wax) will help to thicken the product too. There are a variety of emulsifying waxes available and each has different usage rates. Check with your supplier if you are uncertain how much to use. Alternatively start by using 5% and then add more (to thicken) or add more water (to make the product thinner and pour pourable)

Cocoa butter Moisturising and can harden up a product

Rice bran oil Moisturising without leaving a greasy residue

Jojoba oil Moisturising, similar in structure to skins sebum and therefore very nourishing

Castor oil Provides a protective barrier and a wonderful shine

Vitamin E oil Rich in antioxidants to help reduce the damage caused by sun and the environment

Cyclomethicone A liquid that dries on contact with the skin leaving a wonderfully silky, almost powdery residue. Provides a waterproofing element

Glycerine Gives glide to your product making it easy to apply. Glycerine is a humectant so will draw moisture from the air and lock it onto its surface preventing your skin/eyelashes from drying out

Panthenol Vitamin B5 in liquid form nourishing, protective and improves skin/hair texture

Preservative Prevents the growth of bacteria, mould, yeast and fungus in makeup products that contain water. As both mascara and eyeliner are worn in the sensitive, delicate eye area that has open tear ducts, it is very important that your eye makeup products are free from potentially dangerous microbes. If your eye makeup product contains water, use a preservative.

Guar / xanthan / arabic gum Gums will thicken and add viscosity to liquid products

Colours Both micas and oxides will work well in eyeliners and mascaras although charcoal powder can be used too

5 Recipes eyeliner and mascara Making mascara always leaves me feeling very frustrated! It is impossible to make it in proportions sufficient to fill only one container even though I have fiddled around with


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various recipes trying to pare them down to small quantities - I still end up filling enough containers for myself, a few friends and sadly throwing the remaining mixture away otherwise Id only make it once a year! If you cant easily get hold of mascara tubes with wands attached to the handle, you can easily buy disposable mascara wands which are fine for home use. The downside is that they can easily become loaded with too much mascara making a tidy application almost impossible. However, the recipe for the cake mascara is suitable for the disposable brushes or the good old comb mascara brushes. There arent so many recipes in this section as there are less varieties of mascara than say eye shadow or lipstick. Do experiment with colours dark blue or violet mascara can be quite stunning so feel free to add ultramarine blue or manganese violet to the black.

Cleopatra black eyeliner Ingredients

1g beeswax 1g carnauba wax 1g cocoa butter 2ml rice bran oil 5ml jojoba oil 7ml castor oil 1ml vitamin e oil 8 tiny white spoonfuls black oxide (start with less and build up as required)

Method Place all the ingredients EXCEPT THE COLOUR in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. Allow the butter and waxes to melt, stirring to encourage melting. When fully melted, remove the heatproof bowl from the heat and stir in the colour. Stir to ensure thorough distribution of the colour. Pour into a lidded container, but do not put the lid on until the eye liner has set. Label so that you can identify the contents. Container: small lidded container Application: apply with suitable eyeliner brush Shelf life: 18 24 months


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Liquid cream eyeliner Ingredients

0.5g magnesium stearate 1g cornflour 1.5g talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 1 teaspoon iBinder 8 tiny white spoonfuls mica (start with less and build up as required) Method

Place the magnesium stearate, cornflour and talc (or clay or talc/clay combination) in a small bowl such as a ramekin. Stir with a teaspoon and ensure that the powdered ingredients are thoroughly mixed together.

Add the iBinder and mix again. Add more iBinder until you have reached the consistency you require.

Application: apply with suitable eyeliner brush

Shelf life: 18 24 months

Black smudger eyeliner This eyeliner can be used on its own and left as is or smudged to create a smoky effect. It is modelled on the Maybelline gel eyeliner. Ingredients 3g beeswax 8g fractionated coconut oil 6g cyclomethicone 1g black oxide 0.5g kaolin clay Method Place the beeswax, oil and cyclomethicone in a heatproof bowl or beaker and place on the heat until the wax has melted. Off the heat, add the oxide and clay and stir until thoroughly mixed together. Add more colour if necessary.


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Pour into a small lidded pot. Do not put the lid on until the eye liner has cooled. Label so that you can identify the contents. Container: small lidded container Application: apply with suitable eyeliner brush Shelf life: 18 24 months

Glitter gel eyeliner This eyeliner can be used on its own or painted over the Cleopatra black eyeliner to add an element of sparkle to your eye lids. Ingredients

18g spring water 0.5g gum Arabic 0.5ml preservative - 1 small blue spoonful cosmetic grade glitter Method Place the spring water in a small bowl and sprinkle the gum Arabic over the surface. Leave to stand for two minutes. Stir gently allowing the gum to dissolve into the water. Adjust by adding a little more water if the mixture is too thick to pour into your container. Add the preservative and stir again. When you have the viscosity you require, add the glitter and stir again making sure that the glitter is evenly distributed throughout the gel. Place the glitter gel eyeliner into your container and label so that you can identify the contents. Container: small lidded container Application: apply with suitable eyeliner brush Shelf life: 6 months


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Long and luscious lashes mascara As it is difficult to make mascara in very small quantities you may end up having to make enough for two or three tubes at the same time. You can always just fill one tube and store the remaining mixture in a lidded pot or ziplock bag until you are ready to use it. The added vitamin B5 will help to strengthen your lashes. Ingredients

Oil Phase 3ml castor oil 3ml jojoba oil 1ml vitamin E 4g emulsifying wax Water Phase 25ml spring water 5ml cyclomethicone 3ml glycerine Post Heat Phase 1ml panthenol 0.5ml preservative 0.5g gum Arabic or similar gum (optional) 1 2 small blue spoonful black oxide Method

Weigh the oil phase ingredients and place these ingredients only into a heat-proof jug or bowl. Place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water. Once the e-wax has melted, remove both the jugs/bowls from the heat and pour the waters into the oils jug/bowl. Stir gently for at least three minutes and then add the preservative. Stir again and then add the black oxide. As the mixture cools, it will become slightly thicker. Once the mixture has cooled to tepid add the panthenol and stir thoroughly. If your mixture is a little too thin, add a little gum arabic and stir until thicker. Or make up a thick gel by adding 0.5g gum to 25g water, stir with a small whisk and leave to gellify for 30 mins or so. Add a spoonful of gel at a time until you have the desired consistency.


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Carefully pour or spoon mixture into mascara tube. You may find it easier to use a syringe to transfer the mascara from the mixing container to tube. Leave until completely cool before putting the brush in and lid on. Container: mascara tube Application: mascara brush attached to the lid Shelf life: 6 - 9 months Patter cake mascara Ingredients 2g rice bran wax 3g beeswax 8g fractionated coconut oil 1g vitamin E oil 1g shea butter 1 blue spoonful black oxide (or colour of your choice)

Method

Place the oils (NOT the vitamin E oil), waxes and butter in a small heatproof bowl or jug and place over a heat source. Stir until the butter and wax are melted. Leave on a very low heat for 20 minutes but DO NOT allow the mixture to get to hot or start to overheat. Remove the bowl or jug from the heat and stir in the colour. As the mixture cools, add the vitamin E oil. Pour into container and label. Leave until completely cool the lid on. Container: screw top jar Application: specialist mascara brush or mascara comb (disposable is fine) Shelf life: 6 - 9 months

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