2 of 4.Making mineral&coloured makeup

Plush Folly Ltd Making Mineral Makeup Module 2

Making Mineral & Coloured Makeup

A Distance Learning Course

Module 2

The products you make and the ingredients you use during this course are for personal use only and must not be sold commercially. If you intend to make and sell cosmetic products, your product formulation must be certified by a cosmetic chemist and conform to the cosmetic regulations laid

out in the DTI guide. See our EU Cosmetic Legislation workshop or distance learning course for more details.

Plush Folly cannot be held responsible for any adverse reactions caused by handling and/or using

the ingredients. As with all new products, please do a patch test if you are unsure of suitability for your skin.

Plush Folly Ltd


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Module Two 1 Working with oxides 2 CI Numbers 3 Base powder ingredients and benefits 4 Colour blending for eyes 5 Recipes making eye shadows

1 Working with oxides Pigments are either organic or inorganic, each identified by certain characteristics. Organic pigments tend to be transparent (although this isnt always the case) and inorganic pigments are opaque allowing them to reflect light extremely well. Oxides are inorganic pigments and have been around for years the earliest record of them being used to create prehistoric cave paintings.

Inorganic pigments are resistant to water helping to keep our mineral makeup dry and fresh. Inorganic pigments will not dissolve in water or oil, but remain suspended in the liquid.

Iron oxides Iron oxides have been used in cosmetics since the early 1900s and are probably the most commonly used colouring ingredient in cosmetics. Oxides can go straight onto the skin but as they are slightly chalky they will drag the skin and not glide beautifully across it.

The colours are very intense and a few specks of oxide will cover quite an area of skin which would make it very difficult to apply to eyelids (as an example) without the possibility of the colour being overpowering. Iron oxides offer matte, earthy, muted hues and have three main colour groups yellow, red and black. Many other variations of these can be created as they can be blended together or darkened (using the black oxide) or lightened (using titanium dioxide). These three colour groups, in conjunction with the titanium dioxide, can be blended to create most shades of skin colour. Iron oxides therefore play an important role in mineral makeup products.

Iron oxides are safe for use in colouring cosmetics and can be used in all types of makeup. Oxides are insoluble and will not dissolve. They remain suspended in the liquid to which they are added. They are unlikely to bleed into other colours or fade. Iron oxides are naturally occurring inorganic mineral deposits

Red Oxide

Yellow Oxide


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found in rocks, cliffs and caves and are mined from the earths crust. In their natural and raw state they may contain traces of metals and are therefore heavily regulated to ensure that the rigorous cleaning and filtering renders them safe for cosmetic purposes. Iron oxides can also be created synthetically. Heating natural iron oxides to high temperatures can bring about a colour change. Chromium green oxide Chromium green oxide is mined from the earths crust and comes from the mineral eskolaite. It is a muted olive green and used extensively in camouflage products. This colouring is not permitted in lip products in the USA.

Another green colour, but this time a more turquoise-blue-green, is hydrated chromium green oxide. The chromium green oxide (above) has been hydrated with water and the result is a much brighter green.

Brown oxide You cannot mine brown oxide from the earths crust but you can make brown oxide by blending the other oxide colours together. Typically, brown oxide will be a blend of red, yellow and black oxides. Titanium dioxide may also be used to create a lighter brown. Titanium dioxide Titanium dioxide is an important ingredient in many cosmetics, not just makeup, since it has sun protection properties. It reflects light extremely well and has the second highest refractive index known the highest belonging to another mineral, the diamond! Titanium dioxide will give a white colour to cosmetics and it can be used to lighten the shades of colour. It also helps make cosmetic products opaque and can be used to remove yellow or golden tints brought about by using waxes and oils in cosmetic products. Micronised titanium dioxide is titanium dioxide that has been crushed and ground to a very fine almost fluffy. The fine particles reduce the titanium dioxide forming a white pasty layer on your skin making it ideal for sun screen products. Using micronized titanium dioxide at 5% will give you an SPF of 10-15.

Chromium Green

Hydrated Chromium Green


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Zinc oxide Like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is a natural UV blocker and is used in sun protection products. It is very resistant to water. Zinc oxide is used in skin care products as it is soothing and healing and an anti-irritant. It is often found in after-sun treatments and rash treatments. As an ingredient in mineral makeup, it is used as a white colouring, to add opacity and lighten products. Pigment size Pigments are larger and more intense in colour than micas. If you take a little oxide and run it onto the back of your hand, you will find that the oxide colour does not glide across your skin easily and drags a little. The oxide colour is very strong and rubbing the oxide on the back of your hand will result in a large smudge of colour. Oxides are always blended with other ingredients to make them feel better on the skin. Oxides must be ground down and crushed before they can be used in cosmetics without causing the makeup to streak when applied to the skin. Oxides are used to coat micas as well as being used as cosmetic colours in their own right. They are matte although can be added to pearl mica to make a green sheen mica. Crushing and grinding oxides Oxides will need to be broken down in to a fine powder before use in mineral makeup products. This can be done with the use of an electric grinder or by hand. A coffee bean grinder will grind the oxides to fine powder but will need to be washed thoroughly in between colours so that there is no transference of colour. Models similar to the one shown here (from Amazon and other suppliers) are absolutely ideal for relatively small quantities of oxides. If you are grinding smaller quantities, or several different colours, it is possible to grind by hand. Whilst a pestle and mortar will help, do make sure that the lining of the mortar isnt porous as it may absorb the colours beyond the point that you can wash them off. When creating smaller quantities of mineral makeup products, we grind our colours using the back of a teaspoon and a small bowl such as a ramekin. To do this, add the colours to your powder base filler ingredients (see recipes at the end of this module) and stir to distribute thoroughly. Now start grinding or squashing the beetle as we call it! This involves crushing the powders between the back of the teaspoon and the bowl and dragging


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your teaspoon over colours thus crushing and grinding the colours between the teaspoon and the bowl. Even if you think you have stirred, squashed and blended the oxides, if you dig to the bottom of the bowl it is highly likely you will find some particles of colour lurking there which will need to be blended more. Streak test If in doubt, try the streak test. Take a little of your blended colour and powder base on the tip of a clean finger and wipe across the back of your hand. Check for any streaking. If there is none, you have done a great job of blending your colours if there is some streaking, go back to the grindstone (literally!) and keep grinding away at those pigments.

2 CI numbers All colours safe for use in cosmetics are referenced by a CI number. The CI number is the international Colour Index reference number and recognised worldwide regardless of language.

The colour index number is referred to on the label of the makeup product and as a reference on cosmetic colour websites and will usually appear as the last item/s in the ingredients list.

FD&C Colours

In America, cosmetic colours that are considered safe for use in cosmetics are referred to as FD&C colours (Food, Drink & Cosmetics). These are listed on labels as follows:

FD&C suitable for food, drugs and cosmetics

D&C suitable for cosmetics and for coating drugs/pills, but not acceptable for colouring food

Ext. D&C colours suitable for externally applied drugs and for cosmetics that do not come into contact with mucous membranes (ie. lip products).

These naming conventions are explained further in Module Three.

For a cosmetic product that may be sold in Europe and America the label would refer to both colour naming conventions ie. CI16035 (FD&C Red 40 Lake).

Many of natures own products can be used to successfully colour some cosmetics, often by gently and temporarily staining the skin. These are used in lip and cheek cosmetics such as


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lip gloss and blusher. Amongst the list are clays, available in shades of black, blue, red, pink, yellow and green - these do not stain the skin at all. Also used are caramel (beige brown), beetroot powder (purplish pink), carrot (orange), grape skin (purple), spinach (green), spirulina (turquoise) and cocoa powder (brown). These are listed as their botanical name on the ingredients section of a cosmetic label and not as CI numbers. As mentioned earlier, titanium dioxide is an ingredient that is used to colour or lighten a product or to give the product a sun protection factor. If titanium is used as a functional ingredient rather than a colouring, it should be listed as titanium dioxide rather than its CI equivalent CI77891.

Colour

CI Number or label

name (EU)

USA label name

Colour Notes

Red oxide

CI77491 Iron oxide

Yellow oxide

CI77492 Iron oxide

Black oxide

CI77499 Iron oxide

Chromium green oxide

CI77288 Chromium Oxide Green

FDA - Not permitted in lip colours

Hydrated chromium green oxide

CI77289 Chromium Hydroxide Green

FDA - Not permitted in lip colours

Zinc oxide CI 77947 Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is a functional ingredient and therefore usually listed as its INCI name on the label unless it has been added just for colour

Titanium dioxide

CI77891 Titanium dioxide

Titanium dioxide may be listed by its INCI name on the label

Mica

Mica Mica

Mica is listed as an ingredient rather than a CI number but when coated with colours, the colour CI number is also listed

Bordeaux mica

Mica, CI77491

Mica, Iron Oxide

A combination of mica and red oxide


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Colour

CI Number or label

name (EU)

USA label name

Colour Notes

Green mica

Mica, CI77891, 77288

Mica, Titanium dioxide, Chromium Oxide Green

A combination of mica, black oxide and chromium green oxide

Blue mica

Mica, CI77891, 77510

Mica, Titanium dioxide, ferric ferrocyanide

A combination of mica, titanium dioxide and ferric ferrocyanide

Gold mica

Mica, CI77492

Mica, Yellow Oxide

A combination of mica and yellow oxide

3 Base powder ingredients and benefits Oxides and other pigments will need to be blended with other powdered ingredients before being applied to the skin so that they behave well and arent too intense. While micas can go directly onto the skin, these will benefit from being blended with base powder ingredients as well. The base powder ingredients have been selected for their ability to help the minerals glide across your skin, remain on your skin and to dilute the stronger colours. Common ingredients used as the base powders in mineral makeup include magnesium silicate, magnesium stearate, cornflour, potato and rice flours and clay. Magnesium silicate Magnesium silicate is also known as talc. Before I tell you the benefits of talc, I shall hopefully allay any concerns you have regarding the use of talc. In the not so distant past talc received bad press as a possible carcinogenic ingredient. As of today there is no medical evidence that it is unsafe when used and applied normally the only risk is if you were to breathe it in in enormous quantities or apply it liberally to your genital area. Breathing in any powder (including icing sugar) can cause coughing and temporary breathing difficulties. Applying talc to your genital areas will give it a chance clog and to enter your body. No matter what the beliefs are in whether talc is safe or not, this cannot be considered healthy or hygienic.


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Cosmetic grade talc has been milled, filtered, cleaned and processed to ensure that it is safe for use in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. Cosmetic grade talc is milled to a fairly large particle size (>5 m) that is unlikely to be inhaled. As with any cosmetic ingredient, please do your own research to find out more about it if you are in anyway concerned. Remember that there are scaremongers out there but more importantly, remember that the EU Cosmetic Legislation authorities and the FDA would not consider allowing it in products if there was any evidence of an ingredient being unsafe. There are companies that sell their products based on the premise that it doesnt contain certain ingredients. You may have seen SLS-free, soap-free, fragrance-free and oil-free products for sale. This may make some consumers feel that oil or fragrance or SLS is bad for you. This isnt necessarily the case and as with all things, moderation and careful use should be exercised. Butter isnt dangerous in moderation, but butter liberally spread on every meal will not be healthy at all. The reason behind promoting products as being particular-ingredient-free is so that you then believe that the product on sale is in fact the perfect, ideal product containing only good ingredients. Hmmmm, dont be taken in by this style of marketing without having some hard, proven facts. If you would like to find out more about using talc in cosmetics, this page is a good place to start http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/HBI/26 Talc is a mineral and is used in mineral makeup to give a silky feel and help it glide across the skin. It gives a silky, translucent finish and imparts a smoothness to the skin. It has the ability to absorb oil without caking. Magnesium stearate Magnesium stearate is a magnesium salt containing stearic acid, a fatty acid found in vegetable oils. It is a very fine waxy powder and is used in mineral makeup to give adhesion. Without adhesion, the coloured powders may not easily stick to the skin and will not stay on for long. Magnesium stearate will give mineral makeup staying power and gives a matte finish to the product. Magnesium stearate needs to be used in conjunction with an ingredient that allows the makeup to glide easily across the skin this is known as slip. Magnesium stearate used on its own would not glide nicely and may pull the skin as it is applied. Magnesium stearate is a key ingredient in mineral makeup, used not only for its ability to adhere to the skin, but also because it will give good coverage and opacity to the makeup

Pink Kaolin Clay


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product. Clays Clays are used in many cosmetic products. In mineral makeup they play a multi-functional role they absorb excess oil and therefore reduce shine, help the makeup product to adhere to the skin, give a creamy texture and give a medium coverage. Clays come in a variety of colours, most of which are suitable for use in makeup. Clays are known as kaolin, bentonite, montmorillonite, argiletz etc depending on the area that they are collected from. Bismuth oxychloride Bismuth oxychloride is a byproduct of copper and lead refining and is a metal. Bismuth oxychloride is used in mineral makeup to give an iridescent, shiny, glowing appearance. Bismuth oxychloride is processed and refined to make it suitable as a cosmetic ingredient. It takes on a soft, slippery, silky feel and gives the skin a soft sheen. It will refract light to draw attention away from fine lines and wrinkles. Some people find bismuth oxychloride irritating on their skin and hence some mineral makeup companies promote their products as being bismuth oxychloride free. Cornflour (aka cornstarch) Cornflour is not a mineral but a vegetable starch milled from corn. When used in mineral makeup products it gives a very silky feel and enables the makeup to glide easily across the skin. Cornflour has good oil absorbency and helps lessen shine. As it is a vegetable matter rather than a mineral, cornflour will reduce the shelf life of your mineral makeup products to 18 months (rather than 2 years plus if the makeup is made from only minerals). Potato flour and rice flour

Potato flour is a finely milled potato starch which will also limit the shelf life of your makeup product to 18 months or so. Rice flour is milled from brown and white rice. Both flours add a colourless translucent matte finish to cosmetic products and impart a silky feel on the skin.


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Ingredient Name

INCI label name Function / benefit

Magnesium silicate (talc)

Magnesium silicate

Silky feel. Good glide. Smooth finish. Absorbs oil

Magnesium stearate Magnesium stearate Good coverage and opacity. Excellent adhesion

Bismuth oxychloride Bismuth oxychloride Shiny, glowing appearance

Cornflour Zea mays Silky glide across skin

Potato flour Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch

Colourless matte finish

Rice flour Oryza Sativa

Colourless matte finish

Clay Kaolin, Bentonite, Montmorillonite, Argiletz depending on the area producing the clay

Good absorbency, creamy texture, good coverage, good adhesion

Waxes, butters and oils See Module 1 for information on waxes, butters and oils used in lip products. The same ingredients can be used in cream eye shadows although the ingredients and type of oil will be adjusted to make it less oily

iBinder Iso Propyl Myristate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Cyclomethicone

A silky ingredients used for binding powdered makeup. Pressing (with force) will help to press the powdered makeup into a solid

When blending the raw ingredients to create a base powder, you need to create a base that has good slip on the skin, will provide excellent coverage and will adhere to the skin. There is no right or wrong when it comes to formulating and half the fun of creating your own makeup is having the flexibility and freedom to change the recipe to suit your skin. The proportions of the base powder ingredients that we suggest in our recipes can be changed as required.

Colour blending for eyes There is no hard and fast set of rules when it comes to creating colours for eyes. You can blend colours that will enhance the natural colour of your eyes, your skin tone, match your outfit or simply because you like the colour. You can wear one colour of eye shadow on your eye lids or wear several colours at once. You can wear dark colours offset by light colours or have similar hues throughout.


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Whilst this course doesnt cover how to create different looks using different colours and shades, nor different shading techniques, there are plenty of websites out there keen to share their tips with you and I list a few of these below. Useful sites for techniques on applying eye shadow http://www.beauty-and-makeup-tips.com/how-to-apply-eyeshadow.html http://howtoapplymakeup.net/how-to-apply-eyeshadow/ http://www.smokeyeyetutorial.net/how-to-apply-eye-shadow/ http://www.wildaboutmakeup.com/apply-eye-shadow.html Blending colours

Blend blue and gold to get shades of green

Blend blue and red to get shades of purple

Blend red and gold to get shades of orange

Blend red, yellow and blue to get shades of brown

Blend white with black to get shades of grey

Add black to your blended colour to darken it


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Add white to your blended colour to lighten it

5 Recipes eye shadows (powders and creams) For the practical session you will need colours suitable for eyes. We have suggested colours to use, but of course you can substitute the colours to suit your eyes, clothes, colouring or mood! Eye colours Gold mica Blue mica Blush spark mica Red oxide Black oxide Yellow oxide Titanium Dioxide Gold mica Bordeaux mica Purple mica Green mica Blue mica Pearl mica

Golden olive Mix 1 part gold mica with 1 part blue mica Add more pearl mica to make it even lighter Berry mix Mix 2 parts bordeaux mica with 1 part blue mica Sunset glow Mix 1 part red oxide with 5 parts gold mica and 2 parts pearl mica Sunkissed Mix 1 part red oxide with 5 parts gold mica, 2 parts pearl mica and 1 part blue mica


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Charcoal Mix 2 parts pearl mica mica with 1 part black oxide and 2 parts titanium dioxide Burberry Plum Mix 2 parts bordeaux mica with 1 part purple mica and 1 part titanium dioxide Electric Ice Mix 2 parts blue mica with 1 part pearl mica and 1 part glitter Ditch water Mix 1 part red oxide with 2 parts yellow oxide and 1 part green oxide The recipes below will show you how to make a variety of different styles of eye shadows to set you off. Experimenting and mixing colours is half the fun so please do feel free to make up your own colours too.

Powdered Mineral Makeup Base / Eye Shadow The method for making the base for eye shadow, blusher, powder foundation and shimmering body powder is the same it is the quantities and colour combination that determines what you are likely to use the product for. Ingredients For the eye shadow base, use the following quantities 0.5g magnesium stearate 1g cornflour 1.5g talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 5 drops jojoba oil If you do not have scales that can weigh in such small quantities then you can measure the quantities using the 0.5ml small blue measuring spoon. To measure in spoonfuls you will need: 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 3 drops jojoba oil Note that the measurement does not need to be absolutely precise a good guess will be fine!


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Method Place the magnesium stearate, cornflour and talc (or clay or talc/clay combination) in a small bowl such as a ramekin. Stir with a teaspoon and ensure that the powdered ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. Add the drops of jojoba oil and mix again. The function of the jojoba oil is to help the eye shadow adhere to the skin and to make it slightly less powdery. You can add a few more drops or omit it altogether if you wish. You can also substitute it for another oil if you dont have jojoba to hand. Rather than use a regular stirring motion, try squashing the droplets of jojoba oil so that they are mixed into the powder as if you were squashing a bug on the back of the teaspoon. Spoon half of this powder base mixture into another bowl or put it into a small ziplock bag to use later. The powdered mixture that you have made forms the base of many other mineral makeup products. You may want to consider making up a larger amount of the powder base and storing it in a suitable container or ziplock bag. You can then draw off the amount you need when making your blusher, eye shadows, foundation etc. Adding mica colours For the first recipe you will need the following micas: Gold mica Blue mica Blush spark mica Carefully add a little of the gold mica into the powdered base in the ramekin dish or bowl. It is entirely up to you how pale/intense you want your eye shadow to be but the rule is START WITH A LITTLE COLOUR AND GRADUALLY ADD MORE. We suggest that you use the tiniest white spoon and start with one scoop of gold mica. Gradually add a little of the gold mica until you have the desired colour (test on the back of your hand). Please note that the colours may initially appear lighter than they will appear on your skin this is because the white powders become semi-transparent when on your skin, allowing the coloured powders to show through. The more you stir and work the colours into the powder base, the move the colour will be absorbed by the powder and the final colour of the eye shadow will be revealed. It isnt uncommon to have the same quantity of (or even more) mica as you have powdered base it all depends on the colour you are trying to achieve.


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When you are happy with the gold colour you have blended, place up to half of it into the bottom container of the stacking pot. You will still have some gold coloured eye shadow left in the bowl. Add a little blue mica to this and stir well. Since you have added blue to gold, you should get a shade of green. Scoop some of the green colour into the next section up in the stacking jars. You will still have some green coloured eye shadow left in the bowl. Add a little blush spark mica to this and stir well. Since you have added pink to green, you should get a shade of brown but this is very much dependant on the amount of blue you added earlier and the amount of blush spark you have added now. Stir well and adjust the colour if you wish. Place in the third section of the stacking jar and put on the lid. Container: stacking pots (3 sections) Application: apply with suitable eye shadow brush, sponge applicator or clean finger Shelf life: 18 24 months Matt Powdered Eye Shadow This method is similar to the above recipe but uses oxides instead of micas. Be prepared for more effort when grinding the colours. The end result will be matte rather than shimmery. For the eye shadow base, you can use the ready made mixture you have stored in the ziplock bags in which case skip straight to the adding oxide colours section. Alternatively you can make up a new powdered base using the following quantities Ingredients 0.5g magnesium stearate 1g cornflour 1.5g talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 5 drops jojoba oil Or if you are measuring in spoonfuls as per previous recipe you will need: 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 3 drops jojoba oil


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Method Place the magnesium stearate, cornflour and talc (or clay or talc/clay combination) in a small bowl such as a ramekin or pestle and mortar. Stir with a teaspoon and ensure that the powdered ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. Add the drops of jojoba oil and mix again. Rather than use a regular stirring motion, try squashing the droplets of jojoba oil so that they are mixed into the powder as if you were squashing a bug on the back of the teaspoon. Spoon half of this powder base mixture into another bowl or put it into a small ziplock bag to use later. Adding oxide colours For this recipe you will need the following oxides: Red oxide Black oxide Yellow oxide I suggest you use the small white spoonful for measuring out the oxides. They are far more concentrated than the mica colours and will go further than the mica. Carefully add a very small quantity of the black oxide into the powdered base in the ramekin dish or bowl. When working with oxides definitely stick to the rule that you must START WITH A LITTLE COLOUR AND GRADUALLY ADD MORE. We suggest that you use the tiniest white spoon and start with half a scoop of black oxide. This is where the fun begins as you need to grind your oxides before they can go on your skin. Using the back of the teaspoon, press down on the black oxide and drag your teaspoon over the oxide so that you are squashing it. Simply moving it around in the bowl will not be good enough, it must be ground into finer particles before you can wear your makeup otherwise you WILL get streaking and you WONT be happy with what youve made. So crush away, grind down the black oxide, stir, adjust the colour a tiny bit at a time and just when you think youve finished, crush and stir a bit more. To test how well you have done, check the powdered base thoroughly spoon the mixture around so that you can get a good look in right down at the bottom to see if any larger particles are lurking there. If youre happy with what you see, do a finger test. Dip a clean finger into the product right down to the bottom of the bowl and then wipe the eye shadow that has transferred onto your finger on the back of your hand. Is there any streaking? If there is go back and crush, grind and stir some more. If not, then do another finger test to make sure and if the results are still streak-free then congratulations, your


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hard work has paid off and you may now place half your charcoal grey (or a shade of depending on how much black you have added) mixture into one of the stacking jar containers. Since you still have some grey mixture in the bowl, you can do some more experimenting. Add a little red oxide and repeat the exercise above to make a non-streaking dark russet coloured eye shadow half of which can be put in the second stacking container. You will still have a little eye shadow left in the bowl, add a little yellow oxide to change the colour to a lighter amber. Crush and stir as before and when you are happy that the eye shadow will not streak, add the final mixture to the third stacking pot container. Container: stacking pots (3 sections) Application: apply with suitable eye shadow brush, sponge applicator or clean finger Shelf life: 18 24 months Even though it is harder work to grind the oxides (although this is made much easier with a grinder), you will have seen that the oxides go a lot further in terms of colour shade than the micas and they are usually cheaper too. To make your oxides shimmer like mica, simply add pearl mica or bismuth oxychloride to the powdered mixture. Creamy Highlighter This style of eye shadow requires a wax base, rather like the lip products, to which to coloured powder base is added. Ingredients Wax Base 5ml fractionated coconut oil 10ml rice bran oil 2g beeswax 3g jojoba wax

Powder Base (you need half this amount_ 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay)


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Colours 3 tiny white spoonfuls gold mica colour 1 tiny white spoonful bordeaux mica colour

Method Mix the powder base ingredients together in a small bowl. You will have plenty of powder base and wont need it all for this recipe so I suggest you remove half and place in a ziplock bag. Add the mica colours to the remaining powder base and stir well. Place the wax base ingredients in small heat proof container and place over a double boiler as per the lip recipes. Heat gently until the wax has melted. Add the coloured powder base to the melted wax base and stir well to ensure that the mixture is thoroughly combined. If the mixture starts to set, remelt it by placing it back over the double boiler. When fully blended together, pour the mixture into your container. If necessary reserve a little to top it up as the contents may settle when cooling. You can pour half the mixture and then add more mica colour to change the shade of the remaining mixture. Once the eye shadow has set, put the lid onto the container. Leave to harden for at least 2 3 hours. Note: You can adjust the texture and hardness of the product if it is not perfectly suitable for you. Add a little more rice bran oil to give a softer consistency; add a little more wax to give a firmer consistency. Container: screw top pots Application: apply with suitable eye shadow brush, sponge applicator or clean finger Shelf life: 18 24 months Sunlit Sea Pressed Powder Pressed powders are powders that have been compressed into one piece rather than left as loose powder. The amount of pressure / weight that is needed to press the powder into a solid requires special machinery. Although not as robust and compact as mechanically compressed eye shadows, you can attempt to create pressed powder yourself using some iBinder solution, a bit of cling film (saran wrap) and a coin yes truly!


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Ingredients 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 5 drops jojoba oil (optional) 1 tiny white spoon blue mica 1 tiny white spoon green mica tiny white spoon black oxide 1-2ml iBinder solution (use 1ml blue measuring spoon) Mix your non-coloured powders together as per the Powdered Mineral Makeup Base / Eye Shadow recipe earlier in this module. Add the mica colours and stir until thoroughly blended. When you are certain that the colours have been thoroughly blended, add the iBinder solution and mix well. The iBinder solution will be absorbed by the powders keep stirring so that most of the powder has absorbed the solution and when you push the mixture up against the sides of the bowl, it tries to stick to it. Note that the colour will appear a little darker once the iBinder solution has been added. Place your eye shadow mixture into the bottom compartment of the stacking jars. Fill it as full as you can. Take a piece of cling film (saran wrap) or polythene and lay it over the top of the jar dont cut it to size, it needs to be much bigger than the diameter of the container. Now you need to press the mixture down using a small disc or coin that is just slightly smaller in diameter to the container a 1 coin or a 1 Euro coin will do very nicely. Place the coin on top of the cling film (saran wrap) or polythene and push down with as much strength as you can muster. Keep pushing so that you are compacting the mixture as much as possible. You will have pushed your mixture down into the pot and have made room for more. Remove the coin and the polythene and top the pot up with more mixture from the bowl. Repeat the pressing/squashing exercise until the small pot is full or you have run out of mixture. Carefully remove the coin and the polythene and put the lid on the pot. Container: bottom compartment of stacking pot plus lid Application: apply with suitable eye shadow brush or sponge applicator Shelf life: 18 24 months


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Tips:

If your mixture doesnt hold well and is a little crumbly, try adding a little more iBinder solution and/or press even harder and for longer when compacting the mixture into the container.

Instead of using shrink wrap try using a textured ribbon or piece of material to give a patterned surface to your pressed eye shadow.

Instead of using a coin, you can use anything with a flat base that will fit snugly into the container

Using an embossed disc to press onto your powder will leave a mark on the surface on your pressed eye shadow. We successfully used a brass seal like the one pictured here. It is designed as a seal to press into hot wax, but it worked well on our eye shadows!

Glitterarti Eye Dazzle Adding glitter to your powdered, cream and solid eye shadows is easy, but there are a few rules that you need to follow:

Always make sure that the glitter is cosmetic grade and is safe for eyes. If in doubt, ask your supplier

Never put too much glitter into the product your eyelids and area up to your eyebrows is not a vast expanse and as such, only requires a small amount of glitter to twinkle and sparkle.

Always add the glitter once the other colours have been blended in and never grind glitter in case you break it into small particles with sharp edges

This recipe is for a pressed eye shadow, but you could just as easily add the glitter to the powdered eye shadow or to the cream eye shadow. If adding it to the cream eye shadow, make sure you give the eye shadow a very good stir and dont pour it until it is almost setting. This will help suspend the glitter in the mixture rather than letting it sink to the bottom. Ingredients 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) 5 tiny white spoons purple mica tiny white spoon black oxide 1 tiny white spoon cosmetic grade glitter 1-2ml iBinder solution (use 1ml blue measuring spoon)


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Method Place the magnesium stearate, cornflour and talc (or clay or talc/clay combination) in a small bowl such as a ramekin or pestle and mortar. Stir with a teaspoon and ensure that the powdered ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. Spoon half of this powder base mixture into another bowl or put it into a small ziplock bag to use later. Add the colours and mix well. Add the iBinder solution and mix again. Finally add the glitter and stir it into the mixture. Place the mixture into the eye shadow pot and press down using the polythene/coin (or your preferred similar method) as before. Container: bottom compartment of stacking pot plus lid (or a middle compartment from the stacking pots and attach it to the pressed eye shadow made in the previous recipe). Application: apply with suitable eye shadow brush or sponge applicator Shelf life: 18 24 months Illuminating Radiance Blusher Ingredients Wax Base 5ml fractionated coconut oil 8ml rice bran oil 3g jojoba wax

Powder Base 1 level small blue spoonful magnesium stearate 2 level small blue spoonfuls cornflour 3 level small blue spoonfuls talc (or white clay - or a combination of both talc and clay) Colours 2 tiny white measuring spoonfuls pearl mica 1 tiny white measuring spoonful bordeaux mica colour tiny white measuring spoonful gold mica colour


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Method Mix the powder base ingredients together in a small bowl. Remove half and place in a ziplock bag. Alternatively use excess stored powder from previous recipes. Add the mica colours to the powder base and stir well. Place the oils and wax base ingredients in small heat proof container and place over a double boiler as per the lip recipes. Heat gently until the wax has melted. Add the coloured powder base to the melted wax base and stir well to ensure that the mixture is thoroughly combined. If the mixture starts to set, remelt it by placing it back over the double boiler. When fully blended together, pour the mixture into your container. If necessary reserve a little to top it up as the contents may settle when cooling. Leave to harden for at least 2 3 hours. Container: screw top pot Application: apply sparingly to cheek bones with sponge applicator or clean finger Shelf life: 18 24 months Highlighter gel Ingredients 50ml floral water 1g xanthan gum or gum Arabic 10 drops preservative 2 tiny white measuring spoonfuls pearl mica 1 tiny white measuring spoonful gold mica Method Put the floral water in a heatproof jug or bowl and heat until warm. Sprinkle the gum over the water and stir briskly. Add the preservative and then continue to stir until the mixture has thickened and the gum has dissolved. Allow to cool and adjust the mixture by adding more gum/water as necessary. Add the mica colours and stir well.


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Place into a container and label. Container: screw top pot Application: apply to upper cheek bones with sponge applicator or clean finger Shelf life: 9 months Note: You can add glitter as 1 teaspoon glitter well as or instead of the mica to create a glittery gel.

2 of 4.Making mineral&coloured makeup

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Transcript of 2 of 4.Making mineral&coloured makeup