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If you are here, you are probably hungry. Perhaps you are starved for saturated color. You crave a craft that can satisfy your desire for sumptuous shapes and luxurious

textures. Or you have a voracious appetite for beauty. Don’t worry—whatever your particular palate requires, there is something on the menu for you.

Welcome to the world of soutache and bead embroidery. While this art form is newer in the world of craft, it has and continues to evolve rapidly. And while there is already a virtual smorgasbord of techniques in existence, new ones are being cooked up every day.

So, think of this as a tasting: I will share with you some of the basic skills needed to complete some delectable projects. You, in turn, will enjoy sampling a variety of delicious tidbits. Having once whetted your appetite, however, you may well develop an all-but-insatiable desire to learn more.

In the meantime, pull up a chair!

Bon appétit.

Amee

Introduction

Amee K. Sweet-McNamara uses soutache and bead embroidery to create textile jewelry with sinuous, organic shapes in brilliant hues. Formally educated in both interior design and fine art, Amee is a member of the League of N.H. Craftsmen and she takes her inspiration from all things color saturated: Mucha posters, Venetian glass, Renaissance paintings, and Bollywood dance costumes have all at one time or another influenced her creations. Amee works out of her studio in Merrimack, N.H. and teaches at venues throughout the country. Visit her website, ameerunswithscissors.com.

Soutache is a type of braid, often referred to as a Russian braid. It is made up of fine fibers wrapped figure-8 style around two central cords. One of the primary elements of Passementarie (the French art of textile embellishments, including fringe, gimp, and tassels), soutache is most commonly seen stitched into repeated curvilinear shapes on military and band uniforms. Soutache can be found at fabric stores, millinery and haberdashery shops, and upholsterers, as well as online at a number of sources (www.ameerunswithscissors.com) in both domestic and imported styles.

With soutache and bead embroidery, you don’t need lots of bulky tools, equipment, or hard-to-get materials. To begin, you’ll need scissors, needles and a pair of chainnose pliers. The scissors should be sharp enough and small enough to nip into corners. I usually use a #10 beading needle, but sometimes I use a #12 if I’m working with tiny 150 seed beads. You may also want a bead tray or bead mat, and a large darning needle or toothpicks, which are great for spreading glue, making last-minute adjustments, and poking stray threads into place.

And, of course, you’ll need some materials:• 1⁄8"-wide soutache• Size B Nymo thread• Beads: I use a variety of beads in different shapes and sizes, such as seed beads, round beads,

cubes, and crystals. Bugle beads come in handy, and “interest beads” like flat shapes, small metallic shapes, teardrops, and barrels can make a great starting point or add a lot to a project.

• Glue (I like Crafter’s Pick Washable Fabric glue)• Ultrasuede• Findings, such as 6mm jump rings (soldered are best), French earring wires, pin backs, and

toggle-style clasps.

Tools and Materials

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Aligning and Stacking If you look carefully at a piece (or braid) of soutache, you can see how the fine threads of each braid run toward the rib (the center indent in the soutache) to form a “V.” Flip the braid over, and the Vs point the other way. These Vs show the direction of the grain (the way the threads are arranged) of the braid.1. Lay each piece of soutache flat. Turn pieces over as necessary until the grain of all three braids is pointed in the same direction (a).

2. Stack the soutache by laying one piece on top of another (b). Be careful not to flip any over. Hold the stack of soutache lightly by the sides. A stack can be made of two or more braids; as long as they’re together, they’re a stack.

Shaping StitchSoutache, by its very nature, wants to curve. Shaping stitches coax the soutache into the curve and hold it there. Shaping stitches should be longer on the outside of the curve—about ¼–3⁄8"—and shorter inside the curve—about 1⁄16". Shaping stitches are always taken through the ribs of the soutache, meaning that the needle passes through all the ribs in the stack.1. Tie a knot at one end of 1 yd. of size B Nymo thread. Trim the tail close to the knot.2. Holding the stack between your thumb and forefinger, sew up through the bottom of the stack.3. Working from right to left, sew down through the stack about ¼" to the left (c). (This counts as one shaping stitch.)

4. Sew up through the stack about 1⁄16" to the left (d). (This counts as the second shaping stitch.)

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 as needed. A shaping stitch is one stitch, regardless of length or whether it is inside or outside the curve. Knot to finish.

JoinsJoins occur where two stacks of soutache come together in the same plane, often at the base of a bead. A two-sided join occurs when both stacks have loose ends. A one-sided join happens when a stack with loose ends is connected to a stack that has already been secured in place.

Two-Sided Join1. Separate the stacks of braids and pinch together the inner braids of both stacks (e). Sew through the left inner braid

only (f). Sew back through the left and right inner braid (g).

2. Sew back through both inner braids and through the left outer braids (h). Sew back through all six braids (i). Stitch through all six layers again.

One-Sided Join1. Sew from the outside of the stack to reach the inner braid. Separate the stack. Keeping the inner braid tight to the bead, press it to the secured stack. Sew through the inner braid and the secured stack (j).

Techniques

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b

c

d

h

g

i

f

e

j