10 of the Best Restaurants in Palma de Mallorca
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Cathedral and Harbour, Palma. Photograph: Alamy Richard Eilers Sunday 27 July 2014 07.00 BST
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Cathedral and Harbour, Palma. Photograph: Alamy
Richard Eilers Sunday 27 July 2014 07.00 BST
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The Mallorcan capital has the best restaurants in the Balearics – and some of the worst. It’s easy to find yourself in an overpriced hole surrounded by other glumtourists. But innovative, cosmopolitan food is at hand, and there are bargains to
be had in Palma . Many places offer a lunch deal, a menú del día , which is a great way to sample top-notch food that would blow the budget in the evening.
The Room
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The former fishermen’s district of Santa Catalina, with its rapidly gentrifyingstreets, may not seem the obvious choice for a good-value meal but LaCrisis (Spain’s economic meltdown) is keeping prices keen. The Room serveslunches as fresh and simple as its white walls and chunky wooden tables. Itsthree- course €13 menú del día, including a drink, is a steal – a starter ofcouscous with nectarines and mint blew away the summer heat.• Carrer de Cotoner 47, +34 971 281536, theroompalma.es . Open Mon-Sat forlunch and dinner
Bunker’s
Round the corner, Bunker’s menu reflects chef Luigi Valdambrini’s Romanroots. It’s small, so you can watch Luigi slaving away in the kitchen as you gorge.It’s only open in the evenings but prices are excellent for the quality:aubergine caponata with rasp berry vinegar and honey, topped by a quail’s egg, is€8; wild boar pappardelle €14. • Carrer de Soler, +34 971 220504, facebook.com/BunkerPalma . Open Tues-Fri
10am-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 7.30pm-11pm
Diner Palma
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A little piece of Americana has landed in Santa Catalina – cue red vinyl booths,chrome counters, vintage signs, and the best burgers in Palma. Choose from asensible- sized regular at €5.50 to a 300g double Texas at €11. There’s also a
branch near the bus and train stations. Both restaurants are often packed withlocals so don’t feel too guilty.
• Carrer de Sant Magí 23, Santa Catalina +34 971 736222, dinerpalma.es . Opendaily 24/7
Celler Sa Premsa
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This cavernous hall will get you back on the Spanish track – it’s about astraditional as it comes, all bullfighting posters and slightly surly waiters, but thecooking is spot-on. It concentrates on Mallorcan specialities suchas tumbet (slices of aubergine, potato and red pepper) at €5.30 and conill amb
ceba (roast rabbit with onions) at €9.85. The three -course menu including adrink is €12.75. • Plaça Obispo Berenguer de Palou 8, +34 971 723529, cellersapremsa.com . Open Mon-Sat, midday-4pm and 7.30pm-11.30pm
La Juanita
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“This is not a restaurant, this is chaos,” said Albert Medina when I called to booka table in this tiny new place in the still-gritty barrio of Sa Gerreria. Albert is owner, chef, washer-upper and a whirlwind of energy.He cooks simply brilliant food right in front of his guests – diners is too formal a
word. Lunch dishes, such as courgette salad and palometa fish with capers,
range from €5 -€7. There is no menu in the evening. I had prawns, chicken with acucumber dip, squid in tempura and pork fillet with samfaina (similar toratatouille). Expect to pay €20 -€25 including wine. Albert also does cookerylessons for a bargain €15pp. • La Sala dels Flassaders 4, +34 653 441208, no website. Open Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and Thurs-Sat from 8.30pm.
La Ruta Martiana
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There’s a bunch of vibrant bars in Sa Gerreria and the best way to explore themis on the massively popular Ruta Martiana (Martian route) on Tuesdays, wheneach place offers a special tapa and a drink for €2. Just look out for the cartoonMartian in the windows of participating bars: top spots include Bar Farina
(Carrer del Pes de la Farina 10), Molta Barra (next door) and Ca La Seu (Carrerde Corderia 17). It’s a marvellous way to spend a night – bar-hopping, people-
watching and eating your fill for a few euros.• rutamartiana.wordpress.com
Quina Creu
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Still in Sa Gerreria but a notch above, this bistro bar is about as sophisticated asit gets in Palma – a long dark bar, black-clad waiters, slightly saucy filmsprojected on to a screen. Pick out pinchos (€1.50) from the two dozen on offer ororder from the menu (cod fillet with alioli and quince gratin was €2.85) and
watch a hip crowd drift in and out. Its three-course menú del día is €12.50 with
drink (not available Saturdays).• Carrer de Corderia 24, +34 971 711772, quinacreu.com . Open Mon-Satmidday-1am
Simply Fosh
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Palma’s best -known chef is a Brit, Marc Fosh. Simply Fosh is right in the heart ofthe city, in the refectory of the 17th- century Hotel Convent de la Missió. It’sexpensive in the evenings but its set-lunch menú del dia is more affordable at€28. Three courses might include a strawberry salmorejo (like gazpacho) starter
with avocado, coriander and langoustine, a main of rump steak with white
asparagus, chervil and pink pepper, and chocolate, mint and gooseberry forpudding.• Carrer de la Missió 7, +34 971 720114, simplyfosh.com . Open 1pm-3.30pm and7.30pm-10.30pm daily
La 5a Puñeta
This neighbourhood bar near Plaça del Mercat is open at lunch but is more funat night – be prepared to fight your way through the crowd to get to the bar anda long line of fantastic pinchos , such as sardines and green pepper topped withserrano ham. The dishes are replenished through the evening, so keep an eye out
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for new ones. Pinchos €1.65, wine from €1.65 a glass. • Carrer de les Caputxines 3, +34 971 711571, no website. Open Tues-Satmidday-4pm and 7.30pm-midnight, Mon 7.30pm-midnight
Cervecería Anfos
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This restaurant turns a casual wander into Palma’s market, the Mercat del’Olivar, into a foodie’s bargain hunt. You scour the fish stalls for a deal of theday – I found turbot at an amazing €11 a kilo – take it to Anfos and they cook itfor you (€3.50pp) . There are no frills in decor or food: everything is seared on
the griddle, drizzled in olive oil and served. There’s a menu if you’re tooscared/lazy to shop. Starters around €6, mains €12.
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• 1st floor, Mercat de l’Olivar, +34 971 729120, facebook.com/Cerveceria-Anfos . Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm
