ADVENTUREScreating

See what we can tailor-make for you at www.farfrontiers.com and www.arcturusexpeditions.co.uk

Fiona Brijnath, DirectorNinestone, South Zeal, Devon EX20 2PZ

tel & fax

01837 840640email fiona@farfrontiers.comfiona@arcturusexpeditions.co.uk

update | April 2017

Many of my ‘regulars’are steadily working

their way through the Far Frontiers Travel andArcturus portfolio so, in thisissue, I am really excited tobe focusing on a place notmany will have visited! I’mrecently back from Japan –a thrilling trip and differentin so many ways. Do look atmy report and contact me ifyou think it’s the place foryou! I covered a lot ofground and left with onlyone regret – I didn’t see thesumo wrestlers in action!

I know that many of you liketo plan your trips for certaintimes of the year, so insideyou’ll find we’ve flagged upthe best seasons to travelalongside my suggesteditineraries. You’ll also findideas for traditionalfestivals you might like toincorporate into your tripand new or unusualaccommodation. Over theyears I’ve built up a veritable treasure trove of information on where tostay and things to do or see, to which I’m constantlyadding, so always feel youcan call for a brainstorm!

JAPAN IN CONTRASTFiona’s journey of culture and enchantment– page 2

FABULOUS FESTIVALS! Let’s build your trip around traditional events

and customs – page 4

KAMCHATKAVoyages and overland trips to the land ofbears, volcanoes and geysers – page 3

STUNNING ‘STANS’

Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan

– page 4

» when to goWhy not tailor our Best of Japan itinerary tocoincide with the colourful maples ofAutumn or the cherry blossom in Spring2018? Takayama comes alive for itsOctober and April festivals, when localsdress as Samurai and carry enormouscolourful floats through the streets. Atnight these are lit by hundreds of Japaneselanterns – quite something to see.

Later, in the rain, I went in search of the hugelysacred Mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, a 1.6km walkthrough a 750 year old cedar forest – ancient stoneshrines hidden among the trees, drifting mist andonly the eerie stone lanterns penetrating the gloom.It was well worth the effort – all gold and fire, a seaof lanterns hanging from the rafters, goldencandlesticks, offering plates, hangings and intricateBuddhist statues.

In Kyoto I was able to meet a Geisha, enjoy a littlesake and talk with her. No tourist gimmick, theelaborate hair, white face stark against red lips anddelicate yet ornate eye make-up are something tobehold. Poise, tranquillity, beauty, mysticism andlaughter summed up my evening.

Hiroshima and its memorial museum proved a movingreminder of the evils of war. At ground zero, oneoriginal building still stands, its broken walls andcharred dome standing out starkly against the green of the Peace Memorial Park opposite and the towerblocks behind.

Can one sum up Japan? Technology and modernity isever present, yet its age-old traditions are very muchpreserved and its culture of respect, good manners,consideration of others and eagerness to do one’s best runs in a rich seam throughout. When all’s said and done, I give the last nod to Japan.

There’s a more detailed write up andadditional photos on our website.

At a secret fold in the mountains, hidden springs oozewarm sulphurous water, creating a perfect natural hotbath for the native population of Japanese macaquesor Snow Monkeys. I spent an unforgettable afternoonwatching them interact. This is their territory but,extraordinarily, they don’t mind sharing it.

Less than four hours later, Japan’s efficient railwaysystem brought me to Mount Fuji National Park, andthe imposing snow clad slopesof Mount Fuji (3,776m). In the local town I slept in a Japanese Ryokan (inn)dating from the 17th century.There I donned a traditionalYakata (robe) and slippers,bathed in hot spring bathsopen to the elements and atedelicate seaweed strips in soy,sticky rice with miso soup, crab cakes and thin strips of Hida beef, sushi and salted fish. That was just breakfast!

The impressive Shinkansen (bullet train) connectedme onto one of Japan’s most picturesque railjourneys – a narrow track winding up throughwooded gorges and past tiny houses with neat rowsof azalea bushes to the little town of Takayama. I spent a sublime afternoon wandering the quaintstreets of San-Machi Suji, popping in and out of thetraditional homes of merchants and sake brewers.

Think of a Swiss mountain village full of thatched

Devon cottages and you have the UNESCO WorldHeritage village of Shira-Kawago. I took a bus upinto these remote mountains where clusters ofGassho–Zukuri houses, over 250 years old,complement a glorious wooded valley with the snowypeaks of the Japan Alps rising majestically behind.

Another must-see towards the end of my stay wasKanazawawith its renowned gardens and some of

the best preserved Samuraiand Chaya (Geisha)entertainment districts forwhich it is famed.

Mount Koya, south ofOsaka, was my last taste ofthe peace and solitude of amountain hideaway. Aftermultiple train changes, Ihopped onto a cable car to

reach my final destination, Koyasan, a UNESCOWorld Heritage site and the centre of ShingonBuddhism in Japan for over 1,200 years.

After a night in simple ‘temple lodging’, an earlymorning start gave a privileged insight into the world of a Japanese Buddhist monk. Inside theMeditation Hall, the air was thick with the smell ofincense, cymbals clashed, bells tinkled, candlesflickered, kerosene heaters hissed and the all-pervading sound was the low monotone chants ofthe monks, breath like smoke, minds focused, bodies poised in repose.

}

~

ancient and modernJAPAN

Location: Yudanaka, Honshu. I was in an enchanted forest. A magical trail thicklypowdered with snow snaked its way through majestic pines. The air was crystalline and the occasional plop of snow falling from lofty treetops sent avalanches ofminiature snowballs rolling down the steep slope across my path.

Mount Koya

Mount Fuji

Kinkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto

Floating Torii Gate, Hiroshima

“The all-pervading sound wasthe low monotone chants ofthe monks, breath like smoke,minds focused, bodies poisedin repose.”

trip report: Buddhist monks, snow monkeysand sake with a Geisha – Fiona’s journey of

contrasts, January 2017

AUTUMN/SPRING

» ARCTIC NORWAY ANDSPITSBERGENFind your inner explorer!

Imagine yourself as an intrepid polar explorer,dog sledging to your mobile tented camp at 76 degrees North back from a long day on theice. After an excellent dinner sharing storieswith your fellow explorers you repair to yourheated tent, soft bed and indoor toilet – thingshave moved on since Amundsen’s day!

We’ve some fabulous dogsledging expeditions for smallgroups or we can tailor make anexclusive private adventure thissummer or next winter. Mid-September to mid-April is a goodtime for the Northern Lights.

Fiona’s top suggestions:Adventure week dog sledgingbased at an expedition lodge atNordenskiöld Glacier » when « July or August 2017 » prices from « £2,975 perperson, minimum of four people

Magic of the Arctic six day summerexpedition based at Isfjord Radio » when « Between June andSeptember 2017

» prices from « £2,280per person

GREAT PLACES TO STAY

VOYAGES OF A LIFE

» ARCTIC AND FAR EAST RUSSIAKamchatka

Make a date with the ‘land of fire and ice’ andsee native people, bears and volcanoes on avoyage exploring the eastern seaboard ofRussia. Choked by ice in winter, the regioncomes alive in summer with birds, reindeer,mountain sheep, brown bears and salmon.

» ships « Spirit of Enderby, AkademikShokalskiy

» when « Various voyages from end May to endSeptember 2017

» prices from « £7,760 per person based ontwin cabin (shared facilities)

» SRI LANKAThe Elephant Stables in Kandy is an oldcolonial bungalow with lovely views,previously the home of an aristocratic family –not to mention their many elephants whichwere housed in the old plantation’s gardens!

Fort Bazaar in Galle is an 18 bedroomboutique hotel built around a traditional GalleFort private courtyard. Once occupied byspice, tea and gem traders, the Fort Bazaar hasundergone an incredible 9 year renovation. It’sperfect for guests looking to do a spot of gemshopping or walk the Fort’s 300 year old walls.

» These properties would fit well into ourClassic Ceylon cultural tour of Sri Lankaitinerary.

» VIETNAMOpening this Spring, amid jungle and clearblue sea with views of natural waterfalls andtowering mountains, the very contemporaryKa Lam Retreat at Ninh Van Bay is a uniqueretreat just 20km or so from Nha Trang and a45 minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City.

New to us and a perfect base for exploring oldSaigon if you’re seeking somewhere quirkyand quiet away from the city is An LamSaigon River. It’s a small hotel set amongtropical gardens 15-20 minutes downriverfrom Ho Chi Minh City.

» Either of these two properties would fit intoour Indochina Explorer or Mekong Delta andbeyond itineraries before or after a Pandawboat trip on the Mekong. Call me for more.

» ECUADOR Just opened, the exciting new Cultura ManorBoutique Hotel in Quito is set to be a greataddition to the best luxury hotels in Latin America.

Named recently as a ‘Best Tourism Project’ inQuito, the Manor’s interiors have been inspired byRenaissance Florence – its top end suites are likebeing inside a Botticelli painting! Be one of the first to experience the magic!

» Quito is a magnificent opening to yourexploration of Ecuador and I can suggest someincredible small luxury yachts on which toexplore The Galapagos. Our In Darwin’sfootsteps itinerary is an ideal starting point fromwhich to tailor your own personal trip.

ARCTICEXPEDITIONS

An Lam Saigon River

Fort Bazaar

WINTER/SPRING

SUMMER/AUTUMNAUTUMN/WINTER/SPRING

SPRING/SUMMER/AUTUMN

WINTER/SPRING

ETIME

» ANTARCTICA 2018 Ross Sea spectacular

Follow in the wake of famous explorers Scott, Shackleton and Amundsen across thePolar Circle to Antarctica. Set foot on remotePeter I Island and sail to the Ross Sea to visitfive historic huts as well as Campbell Island,where the southern royal albatross breeds. A spectacular 35-day voyage.

» ships « Spirit of Enderby, AkademikShokalskiy

» when « Voyages in January and February 2018» guide price « From £19,995 per person basedon twin cabin (shared facilities)

» CANADIAN AND HIGH ARCTIC

Immerse yourself in Arctic art or Vikinghistory, explore fjords, watch whales, see thewild horses of Sable Island, visit the grave ofa great explorer or even navigate theNorthwest Passage. The Canadian Arctichas iconic territories, welcoming people anda world of wildlife.

» ships « Ocean Endeavour» when « Various voyages from end May to

end September 2017 » prices from « £5,450 per person based ontwin cabin (private facilities). This is aspecial price for our Sable Island voyage onOcean Endeavour in July 2017 if bookedby 1 May 2017

SUMMER/AUTUMN

WINTER/SPRING

» ANTARCTICAwith extra options

Kayak, dive, camp, hike, snowshoe, do some softmountain climbing or join in a photo workshopon one of our 15 day basecamp voyages on acomfortable ship this coming winter.

» ships « Ortelius, Plancius» when « Departures November/December 2017

and March 2018» guide price « From £8,915 per person based on twin cabin (private facilities)

OVERLANDEXPERIENCES

» CENTRAL ASIASamarkand, Bukhara, Almatyand more

For somewhere different this September orOctober I suggest our 15 day Highlights ofUzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstanoverland itinerary – three fascinatingrepublics that emerged from the formerSoviet Union, all with amazing treasures and fascinating histories.

» ARGENTINAOur Glaciers and Gauchos itinerary bringsyou Argentina in all its diversity: Theatre,fine restaurants and flea markets in BuenosAires, sea lions, whales and penguins on thePeninsula Valdez and the Malbec winelandsof Mendoza await. The Iguazu Falls is athundering climax to the trip!

WINTER/SPRING

AUTUMN/WINTER/SPRING

AUTUMN

}The service provided by Arcturus was excellent. All arrangements wentsmoothly and efficiently. It was a fantastic, once-in-a-lifetime trip,beyond imagination. Highlights were the penguins, the icescenery including the Ross Ice Shelf and the historic sites, inparticular Scott's Hut at Cape Evans. The group of passengers was areal mix of personalities and nationalities. We made some good friends. To cap it all, we had three members of the Planet Earth/BBC Natural History team onboard, including the Executive Director Alistair Fothergill. They were very friendly, plus it gave us the use of a third helicopter which they had arranged. I won one of the photo competitions organized by the expedition staff.~ David and Mandy Grierson, Antarctica, the Ross Sea, February 2017

}Fiona always makes the itineraries so exciting. We added the turtle watching and this was quickly incorporated. The holiday went as smoothly as the itinerary

and was a perfect mix of relaxation and activity. We would love to goback again and perhaps explore other parts of Oman such as Salalah and the

Empty Quarter. We had a wonderful holiday and look forward to planninganother trip with you before too long.~

Richard and Sally Morgan, Oman, September 2016

}Good pre-departure advice from Fiona. Holidayitself was excellent – a superb wildlife and scenic

extravaganza. Plancius was a good boat and about theright size. Excellent team on board. Thanks again for your help inorganising a wonderful experience. We’ll be living off the memories for a while yet. I would most certainly consider coming to Arcturus/Far Frontiers Travel again.~ Mike and Kathie Killingley, AntarcticPeninsula, Falklands and South Georgia, January/February 2017

}We are home, exhilarated by a wonderful holiday that all went totally according to plan. As we journeyed through our itinerary and heard from other travellers

about what they were doing, we confirmed the excellence of theprogramme you had proposed. Your organisation and that of your agents inMyanmar was superb. The exciting and informative trip was well suited to our

needs. All the guides were welcoming, efficient, informative and flexible,helping us to understand and enjoy Myanmar’s history, culture and people.~

Tony and Helen Clark, Myanmar and Mergui Archipelago, December 2016-January 2017

}A few photos from our trip as promised. The fox was amazing it came really close to us and stayed for half an hour to watch the party. The Polar bear on an ice flow eating a seal was a reallylucky break. The Belugas were just astonishing, there must have been hundreds of them, as the wholesea was churned up by them as they raced up and down the shore line. Never seen anything like it. As we got to Cambridge Bay they had just raised the Maud ready to take her back to Norway.~

Malcolm and Pam Mundy, Northwest Passage Franklin’s legend, August 2016

}We had an amazing and fascinating time, life-changing really! I have nearly 1,000 photos to edit!~

Roger and Fiona Hennah, China and Vietnam, May 2016

your feedback

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‘New look’itinerariesWe’ve been busy updatingall our sample itinerariesto include lots ofcolourful photographs!It’s quite a task but it shouldgive you our clients a muchbetter flavour of what toexpect on your trip. Ask me to send you one!

» snippets «

If, like me, you like to experience a traditionalnational or local festival, I’ve got celebrations forevery month of the year to make your holiday thatbit more special. Here’s just a few for Autumn:

September – The Hungry Ghost Festival whichworships ancestors is celebrated by Chinesecommunities in Hong Kong, Singapore andMalaysia. In Vietnam it is known as ‘Wanderingsoul day’, in Cambodia as Pchum Ben and in Laos as Boun Khao Salak.

October – Laos’ Fire Boat Festival sees LuangPrabang and the Mekong River come to life withflamboyant candlelit boats made from bamboo,tissue paper and candles. Meanwhile Deepavali or Diwali (signifying the victory of light overdarkness) is really worth experiencing in India,Malaysia, Singapore and Myanmar.

Festivals big and small

Design: String concept and design 01323 647078

» Bringing home Maud The Norwegian ship Maud, named after QueenMaud of Norway, was built near Oslo in 1917 forRoald Amundsen’s second expedition to the Arctic.After sailing through the Northeast Passagebetween 1918 and 1924 she ended up in Nome,Alaska. In 1925 she was sold on behalf ofAmundsen's creditors to the Hudson Bay Company,which used her as a supply vessel to their outpostsin Canada's western Arctic. In the winter of 1926she was frozen into the ice at Cambridge Bay,where she sank in 1930 and remained for 80 years.

As part of an initiative called Maud Returns Home, Maud’s hull was raised to the surface in July 2016 and,following the removal of tons of mud, she has been drying out in the cold with the aim of bringing her backto Norway for display at a new world class museum to be built in Vollen.

» Our clients Pam and Malcolm Mundy were in Cambridge Bay last year when Maud was raised and they took this photo!

You can follow Maud’s progress atwww.maudreturnshome.no/

See our websites for more client comments on trips that interest you – we’re always adding new feedback!

» snippets «