00-front matter str1 - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/street-food-preview.pdf ·...
Transcript of 00-front matter str1 - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/street-food-preview.pdf ·...
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XX
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Introduction 06
Kati Roll India 82
Kelewele Ghana 84
Khao Soi Thailand 86
Knish USA 88
Kuaytiaw Thailand 90
Kushari Egypt 92
Lángos Hungary 94
Maine Lobster Roll USA 96
Mangue Verte Senegal 98
Man'oushe Lebanon 100
Masala Dosa India 102
Meat Pie Australia 104
Mohinga Myanmar (Burma) 106
Murtabak Malaysia & Singapore 108
Otak-Otak 110
Singapore, Malaysia & Indonesia
Oyster Cake Hong Kong 112
Pane, Panelle e Crocchè Italy 114
Pastizzi Malta 116
Peso Pizza Cuba 118
Phat Kaphrao Thailand 120
Phat Thai Thailand 122
Pho Vietnam 124
Pierogi Poland 126
Pizza al Taglio Italy 128
Poisson Cru French Polynesia 130
Poutine Canada 132
Pretzel USA 134
Pupusa El Salvador 136
Red Red Ghana 138
Roasted Chestnuts Europe 140
Sabih Israel 142
Salteña Bolivia 144
Samosa India 146
Samsa Central Asia 148
Sarawak Laksa Malaysia 150
Sfi ha Lebanon 152
Som Tam Thailand 154
Spring Roll China 156
Stinky Tofu Taiwan 158
Taco Mexico 160
Takoyaki Japan 162
Tamale Mexico 164
Walkie-Talkies South Africa 166
Yangrou Chuan China 168
Zapiekanka Poland 170
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* Savoury *
Acarajé Brazil 12
Arancino Italy 14
Balık Ekmek Turkey 16
Bamboo Rice Taiwan 18
Banh Mi Vietnam 20
Baozi China 22
Bhelpuri India 24
Bo Bia Vietnam 26
Breakfast Burrito USA 28
Brik Tunisia 30
Bsarra Morocco 32
Bún Cha Vietnam 34
Burek Bosnia & Hercegovina 36
Cevapcici Croatia 38
Ceviche de Corvina Peru 40
Chivito al Pan Uruguay 42
Chole Batura India 44
Choripán Argentina 46
Cicchetti Italy 48
Cocktel de Camarón Mexico 50
Conch Bahamas 52
Cornish Pasty England 54
Currywurst Germany 56
Elote Mexico 58
Felafel Israel 60
Fuul Mudammas Egypt 62
Gordita Mexico 64
Gözleme Turkey 66
Gyros Greece 68
Hainanese Chicken Rice 70
Malaysia & Singapore
Hollandse Nieuwe Haring 72
The Netherlands
Hopper Sri Lanka 74
Hot Dog USA
Jerked Pork 78
Jamaica & Carribbean Islands 76
Juane Peru 80
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* Conte
nts *
* Sweet *
Açai na Tigela Brazil 174
Baklava Turkey 176
BeaverTails Pastry Canada 178
Bliny Russia 180
Chimney Cake Hungary 182
Churro Spain 184
Crepe France 186
Daulat ki Chaat India 188
Douhua 190
China, Singapore & Taiwan
Egg Waffl e Hong Kong 192
Gelato Italy 194
Hotteok South Korea 196
Ice Kacang Malaysia 198
Jalebi India 200
Martabak Manis Indonesia 202
Masala Chai India 204
Mithaa Paan India 206
Pastel de Belém Portugal 208
Sfenj Morocco 210
Sopaipilla Chile 212
Glossary 214
Authors 222
Index 220
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00-front_matter_str1.indd 5 2/12/2011 2:00:10 PM
with a technique well honed by experience. I
was mesmerised. Dried shrimp and peanuts
were dropped in. Pound, pound, mix, mix, mix.
Then palm sugar and tomatoes. Pound, pound,
mix, mix. And lime juice and fi sh sauce. Pound,
pound, mix. Then a mass of green papaya, cut
into the thinnest of strands. One fi nal mix, and
it was dumped onto a polystyrene tray and
handed over.
I took a bite. The fi rst taste was sharp and
fresh, then salty, from the chewy dried shrimp.
Sweetness came next, underscoring and
smoothing every discordant note. Tomatoes
jostled with peanuts and crisp green beans as
they swirled around my mouth. An involuntary
smile spread across my face. This was food
like I’d never tasted before, big, ballsy and
beautifully balanced, the sort of thing to restore
one’s faith in life, love, the universe…then the
chillies hit. Hard. So hard that my eyes fl ooded
with tears, my tongue seemed to swell and I
lost the power of speech. Even thinking hurt.
It took a full fi ve minutes for the pain to
subside, replaced by that heady endorphin
warmth sent in by the body to battle the pain.
I looked up. Both ladies were crying. But tears
of laughter rather than agony. ‘You like?’ asked
one, between fi ts of hysterics. ‘Yes,’ I managed
to mutter. ‘Hell yes.’
You never forget the fi rst time. Mine took
place, nearly 20 years back, on an insalubrious
backstreet in Bangkok’s Patpong. The
experience was brief, and fairly inglorious, but
remains seared in my soul forever. One taste
was all it took. The stall was little more than a
pushcart with a bright yellow awning. A tattered
advert for Carnation milk hung precariously
from the side while the owner, a small woman
in a Coca-Cola cap, gossiped incessantly with
a friend perched on a wobbly plastic stool.
Workspace was severely limited, as a huge
wooden pestle and mortar dominated the
display. Neatly arranged around it, like small
satellites circling the sun, were metal bowls
fi lled with ingredients of every hue.
As a street-food virgin, I wasn’t exactly sure
where to start. A friend more experienced in the
ways of the road had told me about som tam.
‘Just look for the stall with the fat, shiny green
fruit. And someone pounding the hell out of
their mortar.’ So I giggled nervously and pointed
at the plump papaya. The lady stopped her chat
and smiled back. ‘You want farang hot? Or Thai
hot?’ she asked as she threw a handful of green
beans into the dark wooden depths. ‘Umm,
Thai hot,’ I muttered, puffi ng out my chest.
‘OK,’ she answered, adding what seemed like
a suicidal amount of scud chillies, along with
a few cloves of garlic. She pounded and mixed
* Introduction *By Tom Parker Bowles
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T H ET H E T H E T H E T H EH WO R WO R WO R WO RWOW L D ' SL D ' SL D ' SL D ' S' SS B E S B E S B E SB E SB E SE ST STT STT STT STT ST R E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TTTT F O O F O O F O OF O F O O D D D ||| 0707
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0 80 80 8 ||| T H E T H ET HT H E T H E T H EH ET H ET HT H WO R LWO R LWO R LWO R LWO R LWO R LWO R LWO R LR LR LLRRRR D ' S D ' S D ' S D ' SD ' S D ' S D ' S D ' S D ' SD SDDDDD S B E STB E STB E STB E STB E STB E STB E STB E STBBBB E STBB E SBB ST R ST R ST R ST RST RST RST RST RST RSTST R E E T E E T E E T E E T E E T E E T E E T E E TE EE E T TT F O O DF O O DF O OF O O DF O O DF O O DF O O DF O O DF O O DF O O DF O O DO DOFF OF
Since then, street food has become my
obsession. Some travel to drink in the culture,
others to lap up the sun. I travel to eat, preferably
on the street. Because this is where you’ll fi nd
the real soul of a cuisine, somewhere among
the taco carts and noodle stalls and baskets of
herbs. Michelin stars hold little interest, with the
rarest of exceptions. And the tourist restaurants,
with their bland, dreary, ‘safe’ menus fi ll me with
gloom. No, my fi rst stop is always the street.
The scent of wood fi res and burning fat, the
glare of artifi cial lights, the natural hubbub of
regalement, and proper good cheer. No foams, or
smears or strangely shaped plates. No egos, or
supercilious sommeliers or dining rooms with all
the atmosphere of a morgue. Just food to make
the taste buds sing.
Some of the fi nest things to ever have passed
my lips have been eaten standing up, or sitting at
the most rickety of roadside tables, surrounded
by diesel fumes, cigarette smoke and noise.
There was that noodle soup in Luang Prabang,
the buff alo broth looking like melted amber, with
a depth I can only dream of re-creating. Or those
tacos al pastor from the hole in the wall in Mexico
City – thin shavings of pork doner kebab, mixed
with hot sauce, and fresh salsa, and lime. Then
wrapped in a steaming taco. Takoyaki (balls of
octopus-spiked batter), eaten in the freezing
Tokyo night, their outsides crisp, their innards just
the right side of molten. Baozi (Chinese steamed
buns) in Shanghai, oyster cakes in Bangkok and
panelle (chickpea-fl our fritters), all soft, salty
crunch, sold on a Palermo street corner. I could
go on and on and on. Street food is the most
democratic grub in the world, a place where
politician eats alongside peasant, and fl avours are
unashamedly bold. I like the fact that countries
with a strong street-food culture – Mexico,
Thailand, China, Malaysia and Vietnam, to name
but a few – take it very seriously indeed. Everyone
has their own view as to what makes the fi nest
tamales, samosas, stinky tofu, laksa or spring rolls.
That’s not to say that everything cooked up on
the sidewalk is edible gold. Far from it. There’s
a lot of tired, dirty, grease-soaked muck about.
However, armed with this tome, you’ll march
straight past the second-rate pretenders. Local
recommendations are worth their weight in spice,
and always look for queues. High turnover not
only means they must be getting something right,
but that the food’s cooked fresh too, as there isn’t
time for it to sit around. Lack of native language
is unimportant. Communication of pleasure and
delight is universal. A smile, or vigorous rubbing
of the gut. You get to see far more of an alien
culture from behind glowing charcoal or a wok
than through any number of guidebooks. Find a
busy stall, watch what the locals are ordering and
when you arrive at the front, just smile and point.
The only phrase you really need is ‘thank you’.
And don’t be afraid. Most street-food sellers are
delighted when a foreigner appreciates their work.
This is a book dedicated to some of the greatest
eating in the world. Clasp it to your chest and hit
the streets. Gastronomic bliss awaits.
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T H ET H E T H ET H E T H ET H E T H EET H EET HT HTT WO R WO RWO R WO R WO R WO RWO R WO RWOWWOWWOWO L D ' SL D ' SL D ' SL D ' SL D ' SL D ' SD ' SD ' SL D ' SD ' SD SSD B E S B E S B E SB E SB E SB B E SB E S B E SB E S B E SB EEB E SB SSST STT STT STT STT STT ST STT STT STT STSTT SST ST R E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TE E TTER E E TE F O O F O F O O F O O F O O F O OF O OF O OF OF O OOOOO OOF O OO D D DD D D DDDD ||||| 0 90 90
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* Savoury *
Note Defi nitions for words in blue in the recipes can be found in the
glosssary on page 214.
Easy - A very basic recipe,
eg, putting together a
sandwich or tossing salad
ingredients.
Hands
Drinks
Knife * Fork * Spoon
Chopsticks
Spicy
Medium - Suitable for the
average home cook.
Complex - Several
parts to make, or lots of
ingredients to prepare,
or a specifi c technique
involved that may take
some practice.
Vegetarian
e
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Leg
end
Recipe Utensils
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